Stream of consciousness about the painful:
In short, exposure control mode 'M' (Manual, with manual setting of basic parameters exposure) is often redundant. And also on the pages of Radozhiva I do not insist anywhere and do not claim that it is necessary to use this mode exclusively. But for some reason, many people think so. In fact, I'm chasing the idea that everything four main exposure control modes are very important, you need to be able to use them and not get hung up on one of them.
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I use the “M” mode only in one case: for shooting with a flash in conditions of lack of light. In this case, the flash takes on the role of an “automaton” that can be manually adjusted with the flash power in + or - if something goes wrong. In all other cases, “S” and “A” are enough for me with exposure compensation.
A - I use it most often, in second place - M, S - rarely, P - has never been useful yet.
Similarly.
A / Av - in the first place, M - at Heaven, if I wear Helios.
S-rare.
P-only on D90 many years ago :)
And what did they take instead of d90?
A - I use it most often, in second place - M, S - maybe once or twice, P - why is it needed?
Mostly I use the M mode, so the frame is built more thoughtfully.
I use "A" when shooting a random portrait outdoors, when there is no time to set the exposure and the frame is taken as they say - "offhand".
"S" and "P" are used so rarely that I can say that I practically don't use them.
I use M mode for shooting at night, the moon, the starry sky.
ISO 800, f / 10, 1/640 sec., Focal length in crop 320 mm.
99% shooting in A. Mode M for astrophotography only. S and P - never.
I shoot with kenon. normal Av mode, but if the light does not change during shooting, then after the first frame in Av I look at the resulting frame and its histogram and adjust the shutter speed (and, sometimes, BB) to my liking, then switch to M and continue shooting. on manual glasses everything is the same, only for focusing I often turn on LV with ML support. I do not use Tv (shutter priority) mode, as well as Auto ISO.
Videos with the same meaning:
https://youtu.be/2ZcQlesuj2I
If the camera's exposure meter prompts +/- and the priority mode allows adjustments to be made, the M mode does not offer a “thoughtful” benefit. The exposure correction steps are the same, only in priority mode there are fewer unnecessary actions. The camera immediately offers a middle ground, and you already, according to your idea, change the parameters, leading to - or +. That is, everything is the same that I would do in M mode.
PS M mode is necessary when you need to make a frame (often a series of frames) with completely identical parameters. For example, when shooting for panoramic stitching.
M is needed in many cases, but not in all. The same applies to other modes.
There is an exposure lock (AE-L) for this. Very comfortably
I have shifted the focus to this button, I like it more than the shutter button.
Yes, when there is only one button, you have to choose) and focusing is preferable
Portraits and 90% of all frames - A, S - only when I shoot a running child, and M - only for night photos (get beautiful traces from headlights, for example) or shoot smoothly running water.
A - the main mode, but with a lack of light and no flash I shoot in S - I select the maximum exposure without fear, from which it will be possible to stretch the picture, otherwise too long exposures will come out, and it is not so convenient to set the correction to minus. I do this on d40 and d200, where you can't put ISO above 400.
* exposure without lubrication)
M - only for studio (with flash) and difficult shooting conditions such as night shooting, with a tripod, etc. A / Av - standard, S / T - I can't remember at all when it would be necessary to be attached to the time, although, perhaps, it would be appropriate for reporting in certain conditions. P is the first day after purchasing the first camera. Not for that was taken a DSLR.
All shooting in M mode, I'm already so used to it that I can't even imagine how it is not to set any of the parameters, although I understand that modern exposure meters most likely allow it
What do you mainly shoot and in what conditions? No trick question, just wondering.
I often go hiking, and accordingly I shoot landscapes, pseudo-macro, night landscapes there. There are commercial shots in the city - most often portrait, sometimes sports.
Shooting with Nikon D800 and Sony NEX-C3
Thanks. Yes, if lighting and / or objects don't change every second, then M makes sense.
For some reason I always ignored the "P" mode and did not know that this was the golden mean. Thanks for the lesson! And the D40 actually has a gorgeous noble color.
I use 99% of M. I'm used to the fact that I don't remember about other modes.
R - I don't use it, I don't know why. A - when I make a portrait or know which zone should be sharp, S - when children move quickly or need to get attached to the flash - make maximum power or if the camera does not work with high-speed sync, M - first of all, manual lenses and constant lighting, i.e. ... if the lighting does not change much, then M allows you to get more predictable frames.
P - I don’t use it, because I’ve already burned myself somehow; it sets the parameters poorly predictably. Almost always Av. With a flash, and also when you need to rely on the stub (automation often underestimates it) - I use M. Tv, I don't remember using it consciously.
Hello to all !
I shoot Nikon D5300 + Nikkor 17-55 2.8 (instead of a staff).
I use "A" in 95% of cases.
In the remaining 5%, when shooting the starry sky and distant objects - “M” shooting with “Tair-11A” or “Tair-3A”.
Today I tried to shoot landscapes in P mode, as Arkady advised on YouTube, I liked it, it is really very convenient, the camera selects the aperture taking into account the diffraction limit of the lens, when you need to shoot quickly and there is no time for manual adjustments.
In general, this dictum of Arkady about the P mode is incomprehensible to me. In the manual for the camera there is a rather primitive graph according to which the camera selects the exposure couple in the P mode, and there neither the diffraction limit nor the attached lens is taken into account in any way. It would be interesting to analyze this mode in more detail, perhaps in practice the camera does not behave in full accordance with the documentation.
The graph is approximate, but in fact it is influenced by a bunch of factors, for example, another strong factor is ADL. There will be other pairs depending on it, although it is not indicated in the instructions either.
ADL Yes, paired with matrix metering, they influence strongly. I'll have to experiment with this mode - usually I don't trust him
I don't know, maybe Arkady will explain this moment in more detail, I shot a Nikon 3200-16mm f / 85-3.5G ED AF-S DX VR Nikkor lens on the Nikon d5.6, the camera covered the aperture as much as possible in P mode up to f9.
what?
The diffraction limit of the D3200 starts somewhere around 5.6
So it's really not that simple
I wrote this for Mikhail that in P mode the camera for this lens selected the aperture to fit into the diffraction limit.
I wrote this for Mikhail that in P mode the camera for this lens selected the aperture to fit into the diffraction limit.
As far as I understand the diffraction limit should be at the lens and not at the camera. Or not?
No camera. Pixel size is crucial. But the maximum resolution for the camera-lens coupling can be achieved at different apertures.
read here https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
You don't need to pray for the diffraction limit either. It does not degrade the image so much, and in some cases, the cover gives the advantages of a larger depth of field despite the diffraction limit. For example, when you need to shoot a landscape with the sharpest possible foreground and background, the more you cover, the closer the hyperfocal. Is it better to get a slight deterioration in sharpness throughout the frame, which can be raised artificially, or a detailed foreground instead of a blurry one, which cannot be sharpened anymore?
Not a deterioration in sharpness, but a drop in the resolution of the picture. If you don't use the full size later, say for the Web, then you can hide behind. In other cases, you have to pray at the entot limit and use staking
I use just M because I don't remember how other modes work. And in general I got used to it somehow.
I usually use the M when shooting indoors with my hands, in order to insure myself against too long exposures, which the camera (surprise!) Can suddenly set.
For portrait photos (and this is most of all my photographs) I use mode A. And I try not to get carried away with too wide aperture - misses in sharpness are not excluded. In other cases, I sometimes use P mode.