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Please note that for some questions I do not know the answers, or the answer requires 10 pages of text. When asking questions, try to formulate them correctly and in a detailed manner, honestly, neither I nor other readers of Radozhiva have telepathy and can not understand and even more so answer short, meaningless questions.
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Hello! For portrait, which is better? 85/1.8 or 105/2.8 macro?
Both for Nikon Z-mount system.
I assume we are talking about original Nikkors? In principle, there are no non-original 105 mm lenses.
The new 85mm is cool and very versatile in terms of different tasks such as macro, portraits, it provides compression in landscape and city shooting, but if you are directly taking (studio) portraits, then it is better to take 135mm. Or 1.8mm XNUMX, if not for the studio and money allows.
NIKON d5100, Picture Control mode has the functions “sharpening”, “contrast” and “saturation” on the left is a green letter “A”. I didn’t find its meaning… “Automatic”?
I would appreciate some advice.
yes, automatic selection at the discretion of the camera
Thank you, that's what I expected.
Does the UV filter on the lens affect the quality of the photo? I would appreciate an answer.
If you're shooting against harsh light, it may add a glare. But usually, it doesn't affect the quality in any noticeable way.
Thank you!
Hello! Please tell me which lens to take instead of the kit? Canon 600 D camera, there is a 5-mm 1.9 portrait lens, which is better to take for street and studio shooting?
And one more question for the future) what camera would you recommend buying next?
People, tell me, who knows: I have Nikon D5300 equipment and a laptop (14 years old) Windows 7 __ is it possible to find software for reading/processing RAWs?
What, a fairly new version of Photoshop with Adobe Camera RAW doesn’t work under W7?
Yes, the last version of PS that still worked under Windows 2020 was XNUMX.
And it doesn't read RAWs from D5300 anymore?
On the Adobe page you can read that “Camera Raw” version 8.4 and newer is not supported under Windows XP and Vista. But nothing about W7.
Photoshop Elements, I know for sure, is not supported after version 2019.
The latest version of Ps definitely doesn't work with W7.
CS 6 will work.
Under 5300 (which is not the newest) - a bunch of different programs, both native and alternative, working quite well under Win7
Hello! Please tell me, I want to take portraits. I have a D7200 camera. I have a NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens. Does it make sense to buy a Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G AF-S or Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8D fix?
Well, it doesn’t matter at all, and Dmitry, get it out of your head.
I will say that it makes sense and a huge one at that. Read carefully and sleep peacefully. This is a minimal working setup from which you can get something useful and start developing, if of course the desire allows it.
* Softbox (60x60 cm, or a little smaller)
* Metal mini-grid for puff, for hair highlighting
* Two flares that can be ignited remotely (sb-700 is quite suitable)
On a crop, waist-up portraits come out well in the 70-75mm range and f9.5 aperture. I personally use Nikon dx 18-140 or Nikon dx 18-200 lens paired with a Nikon D90 body.
Practical comments on my wise advice are welcome, I kindly ask keyboard nerds not to crawl out of their warm and cozy piles of garbage.
Great advice! Portrait at f9.5 is the very basis of photography! Why take 85? There is the magic 18-200!
Yeah, all kinds of light portraiture that didn’t vikorize this whole bunch of junk and f9.5 are suckers
I don't know how sharp your zoom is, look at the eyelashes: they should be very sharp, without software and soap and at not very tight apertures. Then, it is important where to shoot. If in studios, then they shoot at aperture 8, and they don't play with background blur there: in studios there is usually little space and the backgrounds there are monochromatic or even a dip into darkness. If in an open area, then for portraits you need good background blur and excellent sharpness of the subject, and, basically, portraits are taken at apertures of 2.8-4, at more open holes the face does not fit the rear sights in the grip. Here it is better to take a fixed lens, you can use a 50 or 85 mm screwdriver.
Good day to all. I am switching from D3500 to D810. I am planning to buy EVIL, like MS MTO or something like that (by the way, I even saw something like Sigma or Samyang), for leisurely photography of birds in the park, the Moon, and then (via astrotracker) – planets. Will such a lens fit D810, with a regular adapter (m42/Nikon)? Will the lens rest against the built-in flash?
Samyang is a dump, from EVIL either new Tokinas (not sure if there are any for Nikon, though) or Rubinars. Soviet MTO and ZM usually need reassembly and blackening. For planets, the focal length should be about 1000 mm. Here it would probably be better to take Maksutov-Cassegrains like D90-D127 mm F~1500 mm with a normal mount.
Thank you!
Is it worth switching to Nikon D600 from d5100, I photograph handmade things on the street, lenses 35mm 2mm and 50mm 1,4, thanks
yes, you can, it's inexpensive
Hello, I have a choice between Canon 6D Mark2 and Canon R7. On the one hand, the 6D is full frame, but the R7 is 5 years younger, mirrorless, more technologically advanced (I really like the autofocus). What is your opinion?
What about the Canon R8? Newer, full frame, cheap... or do you need specific features it doesn't have?
True, it doesn't have a built-in stabilizer.
Well, r8 is more expensive, although not significantly, and it seems to have a weaker charge, and the stabilizer is also an interesting thing. The main problem of r 7 for me is the crop itself and the charge, probably, and also the price of oh lenses, but it can be solved even with an adapter for starters.
My personal opinion is that if you take a crop, then take it from the Fujifilm universe. They care about the customer in this direction. If for some personal reasons you prefer Canon, then only full frame. The list of original lens solutions from Canon will not take even 7 seconds to study. This is not serious, especially considering the price of the R7.
Thank you for your activity and advice, I'll probably stop at 6d to start with.
in my opinion it's a shame, RP is better then, it has the same matrix
Nikon Z5 + Viltrox NF-Z + Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4,5-5,6 G ED VR lens
Autofocus does not work correctly in this combination. It works once out of 10 times.
Question: Does the Viltrox NF-Z adapter support this lens? The 50mm Nikkor prime lens works great, but the 70-300 doesn't want to
To help you, look and draw your own conclusions.
Good afternoon! I want to buy a Japanese 50 1.4 for my Sony a7. I choose between canon fd 50 1.4, minolta md 50 1.4 and pentax-a smc 50 1.4. Who would you especially give priority to and why? Thank you in advance for your testimony.
Tell me, what kind of camera can I buy for a beginner? I have a friend, he doesn't understand anything about this topic, but he really wants to start with something. Preferably something from the category "buy it and take pictures, enjoy it")))
I have some tech myself, but I'm not sure I'm qualified to give that kind of advice.
If possible, he also needs to write videos well) This requirement seems strange to me, but maybe there are suitable ones.
You can take photos and enjoy it only with a smartphone. From inexpensive cameras for beginners, you can take Nikon D5200 or equivalent Canon. You will have to master the basics of photography, of course. If things go well, you can buy something more sophisticated.
Sony NEX-6, native lens 16-50 or 16/2.8 + Viltrox 23/1.4 + something manual like Tartizan 50/1.2 for change. The camera is convenient, works with modern AF optics, lots of optics. But you still need to learn))) An option with even better capabilities is A6100, A6300, for example, but it is much more expensive, comparable to a full frame like the first A7.
Hello. Please advise me on a lens for shooting spherical panoramas.
I choose from the two available to me:
Sigma 4.5mm f/2.8 EX DC Circular Fisheye Nikon F
Artisans 7.5 F3.5
In theory, the first one, it has a 180° field of view, I will need to take fewer shots and I will save time. It would be worth overpaying for it. It is almost twice as expensive. The second one I will have to take more shots. However, working with the first one, I will probably get a lower resolution on my Nikon D3100. This suits me, but I have encountered the fact that Yandex panoramas have quite high requirements for resolution, which I may not meet. I am offended if other people cannot use my work. There are many places that can be added so that people can see who cannot get there.
According to the information from the Internet, Sigma 4.5mm is well assembled, you may need firmware for the camera. The problem with the resolution is solved by buying a more megapixel camera.
Arkady, I have been reading your site and watching your YouTube channel for a long time, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I wanted to ask about the design of high-aperture zooms, for example 70-200 2.8 or any other with a constant f/2.8.
Considering that such lenses have the same maximum relative apertures at the near and far ends, equal to 2.8, is it true that the lens at the near end, in pursuit of constant aperture, artificially covers the maximum relative aperture? That is, at 70 it could produce not 2.8, but, say, 2.0, if there was no task to ensure constant aperture at all focal lengths?
Cual es más nítido el sigma 300mm f4 apo af o el nikkor 300mm F4 ed af
De el lente sigma 300mm f4 apo af y el nikkor 300mm f4 ed af cual tiene mejor calidad de imagen
Hola amigo, no mucha gente habla español aquí. IHO Nikkor 300mm f4 ed af
Good day. Where can I do maintenance and change the lubricant in a manual Nikkor 200/f4?
Buy some watch screwdrivers, disassemble the lens yourself and change the oil. That's all.