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Good afternoon, I am the owner of the Nikon 5100 camera, I often like to rise in price.
The camera is already great and brings lack of hands. Can you get a camera for a replacement?
I love photographing nature and portraits.
I give you!
Tse still small) Take Yakus bzk. If you want, see the object tezh rozmir to lie.
Dyakuyu! Fix 50 mm for cob maє vistachiti.
Please be kind bzk)) I understand that there are a lot of articles here, as I read ... But on the budget, I only manage Sigma FP L, like FF, or a crop of another brand ...
The main meta, carry with you and take pictures of portraits, then of nature ... The video does not matter.
Fuji to help you) Especially portraits, here fuji will lay down the canon and especially destroy the nikon. You can shoot in a jeep.
Hello, I recently bought a nikon d5100 with an 18-55 whale lens, tell me why the lower left corner is smeared in the photo, maybe the upper right one too. Is it just curiosity and you need to study further or something else maybe? I will be grateful for the answer. Attaching photo
https://ibb.co/R0mTDTW
https://ibb.co/HYZgGXj
Exif is unreadable, but looks like a crooked lens. Covering the aperture (if it is open) to f / 7 ... f / 10 should help.
On both photos f / 10
Angelica, try to find a brick wall and shoot on a covered lens, 18mm, 24mm, 35mm, 55mm.
If in all these pictures one or two corners are soapy, then most likely your lens had an unsuccessful fall or impact, as a result of which (possibly) the lens block was displaced.
If in all the pictures of a brick wall there will be just such a situation with soapy corners, then my advice is not to take it for repair, but rather buy something to replace it. Repairs may be more expensive than buying the same used one (mountain whale lenses at flea markets).
Thanks for the advice, I'll try
Yes, nothing like that, 18-55 and 18-105 suffer from such nonsense, it’s generally a feature of cheap lenses, somewhere more somewhere less) My 18-105 upper right corner lathered noticeably and at 50mm it was perfectly sharp.
I have sold only this year 2 different versions of the Nikon 18-55/G.
And in total I saw or held 4 or 5 pieces in my hands.
All angles were correct.
There was no such thing that some corner or part of the frame is soapy, and the other is sharp.
So, yes, I repeat - if you bought a used lens (any) and it has some part of the frame, or even more so, the angle is soapy, then this only says one thing - the lens most likely fell and the lens block was skewed and you need to stomp in the service to straighten this matter.
Unfortunately, the experience (not very successful) already exists and is corrected only in the service and it can not always be corrected even there.
Hello, dear, please tell me if such a number of hot pixels is normal on the Sony a6300 matrix. with the bayonet closed at a shutter speed of 3 sec. ISO 3200? or the matrix slowly dies
Tsіkavo chi htos koristuvsya gadget from ШІ Arsenal 2. Tsіkavі vidguki
https://youtu.be/PNj8yBI14YQ
Hello. Impressed by your review, I took the D200 for myself, I assumed it would be the second to the D3400, but it looks like it will be the “first”. A truly unique camera that makes you fall in love with it from the first touch. But there is a question - all the functions that I managed to get to work perfectly, except for the sound signals. There is an image of the note on the infopog. When changing the tone of the “high-low” signal in the menu, the corresponding “illustrative” sound is played, i.e. the speaker works, the processor sends a signal to it when the menu is set up. But with any working manipulations, including focusing, the camera is silent, like a partisan. To be honest (after many years of practice with Zenit) and in silence it’s quite good, but still I would like to know what could be the reason - I didn’t understand the settings somewhere, or it’s still a malfunction. Thank you.
Hello. It turns out that it’s the same for me: when choosing a tone, it beeps (at the same time, when you click on the “question”, it is explained that the signal is given when the camera is unable to focus), there is a note sign on the upper display, and if the camera is unable to focus, on a smooth wall, for example, there is no signal. Either this 200 is a marriage, or our skis do not go.
Bach, without pleasing anyone, then I’ll give you a hint myself - flashing the camera to the rest version from the official Nikon website helped
Works mainly on Fuji, Sony, and now Nikon d40. May have some Sigma lenses on Canon.
Nutrition - what is the middle line of Canon cameras like a model that conveys the color like Fuji or Nikon D40?
You are off topic. In Kenon, CCD didn’t flare up, we’ll cover the old top, Fudge is an okrema theme, the matrix is radically different.
“As a model, what color is conveyed by Fuji or Nikon D40?”
Good day
maybe all different
ale yakscho mova about Kenon, then a lot of people vvazhayut scho 5d1 according to the color of the garni
I live. Dopomozhіt be kindness appointed. I want to buy a camera, there are two options Canon 60D+ 50mm 1.8 II and Canon 550D 18-55; 50mm 1.4 . Which set is better to take? I plan to know children, I can try to develop myself in this sphere. Dyakuyu.
The Canon 60D is much more ergonomic than the 550D. For shooting children, f/1.8 is enough, but in general it is better to have some kind of zoom like 18-135 STM.
Dyakuyu for vodpovid! One more power supply є sens overpay for STM chi can you still take the 50mm version for a friend?
STM is smaller than savage, for rickety children it may come in handy.
Thank you very much for the recommendations!
Good afternoon I have a Nikon d40x, and I have a lens that I really like, it's Jupiter 37a, everything suits me, but I don’t always guess the sharpness with my hands (((, advise the same lens just to use On Nikon d40, autofocus worked and adjusted itself worked
https://radojuva.com/2020/09/sigma-135mm-1-8-dg-a-art/
Read this article carefully. And this one: https://radojuva.com/2013/11/135mm-i-am-asking-why/comment-page-3/#comment-598975
Good afternoon Switched from a Nikon d5300 camera to a nikon d810
The Nikon 10-20mm f / 4.5-5.6G VR AF-P DX Nikkor lens remains from the crop
The Nikon website says that it will fit on the d810 with some functional limitations.
How can I find out what the restrictions are?
Is there any risk in putting it on camera and trying it?
there is no risk, feel free to use
The limitations are related to the fact that only the central 16MP on the sensor will work with it, or there will be absolutely black corners if you use the FX sensor size forcibly (in the settings)
Thank you!
Good day. Added second-hand nikon d610. Japanese. The lack of clarity lies in the fact that the menu is in English and Japanese language. What if it is possible to add other language to the menu, I will understand that Ukrainian is unlikely to be, maybe the same Russian?
good evening :) I had such a halepa with the D800, having downloaded the service software. As for being timid myself, I don’t remember. Fast for everything, trying to get down to the factory settings, not at the camera, but in the service software itself. Well, I upgraded the firmware. Try to read the comments in the article about the D800, I wrote about it there.
Can you speak English more easily?)
Since I did not find a special section or buttons on the site, I want to express my gratitude to the author.
The site has helped me out many times.
Especially when I first started shooting.
Thank you very much for your work.
Health and good luck in business.
The right words, I join. I also think that it would not hurt to mark Arcadia with something like a medal “For the Friendship of Peoples”, but now this is not timely.
Good afternoon.
As a sensor for a homemade spectrofluorimeter, I would like to purchase a mirrorless camera.
Its requirements are as follows:
1. fundamentally mirrorless with a removable lens, the mount is not fundamental
2. megapixels are not important from the word at all, but I would like the matrix to be at least crop 1.5
3. easy access to the matrix to remove the IR filter, but this is not so important
4. everything related to autofocus and ease of control does not matter
5. the absence of a shutter and anything superfluous in front of the matrix is desirable
6. Well, and most importantly - the maximum cheapness (up to $ 150), so that it would not be a pity to ruin it if something happens.
So far I'm looking towards the Sony NEX-3, but it has a shutter, maybe there are better options?
Sincerely, Taras V.
I understand that you need to shoot a video? Or in the end only photos with some kind of interval? If you need video, then it will be difficult to find a cheap option - ordinary cameras have problems with overheating. And here it would be better to have an industrial camera 1″.
If it's for time-lapse photography, almost anything will do, but it will take some work in the workshop to remove the filter. Astroforums often sell modified nexes with a removed IR filter. Also look for cameras with a purely electronic shutter, so that there is nothing moving in front of the matrix, but remember about the “rolling shutter”.
Thank you for the detailed answer, Rodion!
I specify. Video is not supposed to be filmed. The installation will take one picture every 2-5 minutes for several hours, it is desirable that the camera does not overheat. The image (spectrum) within one sample is absolutely static. Students will also work, so I would like some reliability ... if possible.
Foreign colleagues have experience in building a similar setup using Sony a7 ii, but the price tag for it is huge (but it's still an order of magnitude cheaper than buying a scanning spectrofluorometer), I would like something simpler.
Excuse me if I write ballsy things - photographic equipment is a dark forest for me, and if I heard something else about Sony, there are also a huge number of all kinds of Fujifilm with Olympus. Which of these is worth considering? Can you name a few common models that could fit our goals?
Sincerely, Taras V.
I think that any UPC with the ability to connect to a PC to control time-lapse and display information will do. Might be worth trying to start with nex 3, 5, maybe with the IR filter removed. The only thing you need to take into account is the spectral sensitivity of the matrix, probably. In any case, Nex-3 is worth a penny, the price of a mistake is not too high.
Good afternoon.
Thanks Rodion.
The spectral sensitivity in our case does not need to be calibrated, because as we measure the relative transmission values, it is clear that in the average IR it will not be high, but I primarily focus on the range of 350-1000 nm.
Sincerely, Taras V.
If a region of 650-1000 nm is required, then the IR filter will definitely have to be removed. Yes, and 350-400 nm is a big question - in this area, any silicate glass strongly absorbs.
Good afternoon, now I'm shooting on the Canon EOS 300 and decided to pick up a telephoto lens with a length of 300 mm. What would you recommend to choose from the Soviet classics? I also ask you to clarify which factory made this lens better and, if possible, which years of manufacture are better to look at.
Thanks in advance and looking forward to clarification.
PS I ask everyone who has even the craziest ideas at least a couple of words, but toss. I will be very glad to hear what advanced users think about Soviet fixed clubs :)
And the choice is very small.
Basically, 99% of these are three versions of the same lens: Tair-3 300mm / 4,5 (Early KMZ at 39mm, Zagorsky at 42mm and KMZ from Photo Sniper).
From the Photo Sniper, it is inconvenient to focus with a drum.
The picture is not bad, but the lenses are overall.
Other domestic three hundred are very rare and expensive.
In this case, Tair-3 ZOMZ seems to have no alternative in terms of price / quality ratio (convenience). Is it so???
I came across Tair - 3 BGP - do you call them early? And also, is there a difference in the quality of the image between manufacturers and in different time periods of the 50s, 60s ...?
Yes, no alternative. In the USSR, 300 mm lenses were few. Tair-3A of them - the best choice will be. Come across in black lacquer ~ 1967 lenses, take it - you can't go wrong. Alternatives - Sonnar 4/300 (option with thick Zebra lenses), probably also - Telemegor 300 / 4.5 (4.5 exactly), as well as newer lenses with ED glass, incl. zooms 70(100)-300.
I support the opinion of the respected Rodion.
Tair-3A from ZOMZ will be the most interesting of all, especially considering the interchangeable adapter in the tail.
This subject can be easily adapted to Nikon, Pentax. And on the Canon EOS, no problem at all.
Thank you very much, Rodion and Sergey, I will smoke materiel and study the market. Let's see.
Dear comrades and friends. I want you to advise what you can try from the lenses in order to expand the experience and look at interesting samples.
I have experience using the EOS300:
Zenitar 2.8 / 16
Jupiter-37A 3.5 / 135
Jupiter-21M 4/200
MTO-10.5/1100A
Soligor AF 4.0-6.3 28-300
Canon 28-90 kit lens
I also ask you to evaluate the existing set as a whole.
It all depends on the result you want to get. And from the genre in which you want to shoot.
Basically, it all boils down to three genres: lomography, portraits and landscape shots.
I asked the question not for a profile deepening into a specific area of photography, but for an introduction to what technology can give in principle. It is for familiarization that I am currently filming “I am not a magician, I am just learning”.
Look here for articles about those lenses that are not similar to yours in terms of parameters (aperture, FR, zoom / fix) and the novelty of the optical design / technological level. Decide what is closer, then you can be more specific and ask)
For portraits, I highly recommend projection lenses, as they say, “my area”.
Thank you very much! And low bow.
You have a good set of optics for film (full frame).
The only thing is that it is knocked out of the MTO-1000 line with low aperture. They are good at shooting the Moon and distant buildings in sunny weather. It's easier to do this on digital than on film.
Therefore, keep in mind the opportunity to buy a second-hand Canon digital SLR for ridiculous money these days (probably cropped - much cheaper).
I had a similar MTO-11, but due to rare use it was sold.
And an autofocus zoom-width was purchased for a canon crop.
Good afternoon. Please clarify the moment that is not clear to me, because I did not find instructions on the Internet.
I decided to purchase an adapter from Sony E to M42 and was faced with the fact that they are different in length, from very thin (like Nikon F - M42) to expectedly thick enough.
It is clear that if you take a thick one (about 2.5 cm), then it will just turn out that its thickness will be added to the length of the working segment of the lens and everything will work as it should, but what if you take a thin one?
How will a 46.5mm lens work on a camera with an 18mm lens? Probably he will not focus close, but will there be infinity? Or will the focal length fall beyond infinity? Will vignette come out at the edges of the frame? The EGF, in theory, should decrease, but by how much, are there formulas for recalculation?
maybe from M42 to Sony E? What does Nikon F-> M42 have to do with it then? Everything will work as it should, as if nothing has changed.
They are all the same length like these ones.
They are not all the same, there are https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005003150176268.html?sku_id=12000024369184184&spm=a2g2w.productlist.search_results.16.1db64aa6td4kSG#reviews_anchor
and even such https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005003416758415.html?sku_id=12000025690997795&spm=a2g2w.productlist.search_results.9.2e8c4aa6u65g3B#reviews_anchor
It is clear that with some lenses the focus will go beyond infinity, but you can always use macro rings. It seems to me that this will potentially allow the crop to reach the EGF as in full frame or even less, or am I mistaken? The question is how to calculate the required length of the adapter for this ...
This is all complete nonsense. Under ordinary lenses with M42 such as I indicated. Don't look for what you don't need.
Your first link is under T, the second is a thin M42 for specific lenses.
There are no "excursions" whatsoever. There is no relation of an adapter or a macro ring for EGF (and it is measured when focusing on infinity) - and cannot be.
You are seriously mistaken and climbed into some wilds. The adapters simply compensate for the area where the mirror is usually located (along the length). And nothing more. On mirrorless cameras, a lens with the right adapter gives images like on SLR cameras in Live View mode.
If you are looking for some super specialized formula for macro photography with macro rings, there is none either, because the angle of view for macro will depend specifically on the chosen optical design of the lens.
Can you please tell me if there is an adapter? I want to try the NIKON 50 mm 1.8 G lens on SONY NEX 5n
So that I can manually adjust the aperture.
And is it worth bothering with it? If anyone has experience, please share what will be the result.
You can here such
Your observations / conclusions in the first post are clear to me, but you really simply lose the ability to focus if you use a lens from a DSLR with an adapter that is too thin - the focus will be far beyond infinity and nothing can be done. The circle of the defocused image will indeed be smaller, but this will not help you in any way, since there is no focus. Add macro rings - you can focus, but by doing so you get the same ordinary thick adapter, in fact, with all the consequences. So you won’t deceive physics and you won’t get EGF like on FF except by moving the lens closer to the matrix)) If there is such a task, buy a speed booster - this is a very good option that solves the issue with the field of view angle and also increases the aperture ratio of the lens.
Thanks, Rodion! This is exactly the information I wanted to get.
Excuse me for asking stupid questions, I would like to understand the physics of the process.
If you bring the lens closer to the matrix, it is clear that at first the ability to focus near will be lost, and only after that at infinity. The question is how far can you bring the lens closer to the matrix so that infinity is still available and what gain in EGF will be achieved in this case? It is clear that this should be dependent on the design of the lens, but conceptually? Maybe there are formulas for this, or what kind of literature?
Once again, I apologize for stupid questions, but this topic haunts me)
But it won’t be possible to bring it closer in any way in order to somehow affect the image scale (such as EGF) and focusing on infinity was, moreover,. The position of the focal plane (as a “physical object” it has a really negligible extent) relative to the back lens when the object is at infinity is a constant value, you will not affect it in any way. So nothing will come of it. To understand how this works, it is enough to delve a little into geometric optics and make some simple constructions on a piece of paper.
There is an option - to close the aperture strongly, thereby increasing the depth of field. Then you will probably be able to bring the lens closer to the matrix by some amount, but this will practically not affect the EGF - it will be a few percent, if not fractions of a percent)
Vadim, your stupid questions are answered too seriously.
Just take the adapter from Arcadia's link and forget about ether and stuff
Not true, there are thin M42-Sony E adapters in the form of a 1 mm thick flange. These adapters are convenient to use with macrohelicoids for working with various non-standard optics as shanks.
You will confuse the user even more, why does he need this information about 1 mm and non-standard optics?
Well, they are, right? I say that they are needed for non-standard optics, that is, in his ordinary case this is not a choice.
I have 2 of these. Zovsіm uncommon rіch.
Good afternoon. Recently I took a sigma 70-200 hsm telephoto, but there was no lens hood in the kit, now I'm trying to buy it somewhere, but nowhere. It's expensive to buy from China for 7k. Will a hood of the same diameter from a Nikon lens fit?
The most economical way is to look at the size of the thread for the filters of this TV set.
If you have 77 mm, then take a metal one at a democratic price on Ali:
https://aliexpress.ru/item/32832635804.html?sku_id=65037725124&spm=a2g2w.productlist.search_results.6.72164aa6XGdoyA
If 82 mm, then you have to rummage on Ali longer.
Questions for experts on the Fuji X system:
1. Why does the system have only one budget light and cheap fix of the XC series (model 35/2 2019)?
2. Why only a pretty good 100-400 / 4.5-5.6 does not have any specialized enlightenment like SUPER EBC or NANO-GI (after all, absolutely all the rest have such enlightenment)?
3. Do all XF series lenses have an aperture control ring?
4. Do all lenses come with aspherics and are marked FUJINON ASPHERECAL?
5. Why is 60mm 1:2.4 XF not marked with 'R' and 'MACRO' prefix? After all, all the other Makrushniks come with the letter 'R' and the prefix 'MACRO' in their names.
6. Why were the first lenses from Fuji marked with the letter 'f', like f=18mm 1:2, f=35mm 1:1.4, and then it was removed?
7. How to determine whether a lens belongs to a professional segment or a professional orientation (would they make an attachment, like X-Pro1, X-Pro2, X-Pro3)? They should be standardized, for example, by filter diameter, etc.
8. Where are the fixes in the range of 90-200mm?
9. Why is there only one light telephoto 50-140 / 2.8?
10. Why doesn't the vaunted 16-55/2.8 have a stub? (all other station wagons have a stub)
11. Which lenses from the list https://radojuva.com/2009/02/fujifilm-fujinon-x-fx-all-lenses-for-aps-c/ missed?
Good afternoon, dear comrades, now I am faced with a trilemma, which I hope you can help resolve. I choose between three evils:
Mir-3 3.5 / 65
Mir-26 3.5 / 45
Mir-38 35.65
After reviewing the rather old articles on all the lenses described (on joyful), I want to hear exactly which of these three glasses is better.
In Mir-3, the price is profitable, 2-3 times lower than that of Mir-26, and even more so Mir-38. At the same time, the MiR-38 is chronologically the last and most likely has the best quality of the scheme calculation, which, in other respects, may be an erroneous opinion.
PS All described lenses are for Pentacon 6.
You can't guess that Pentacon released such a camera - Pentacon 6. Judging by the lenses, the language is about Pentacon six.
I didn’t show off with the camera. And about the other one, that third objective from your list lost its impression on the mirror number of the FF. Mir-38B is remembered for its sharp and overly contrasting bokeh. However, it is good to convey the correctness of colors. Mir-26B is not so sharp and contrasting. The colors are in life, which would have been necessary to be corrected in the editor. But everything is on the matrix, on the swimmer it can be different. I wouldn't take either one or the other. Yes, and vaga їх з цією camera too hard. You can score flowers or fight against the attackers at the fighter on fists))
You need to try it especially, more for color and relish, as you can see, the skin itself is a master. Just don't take their release on the cob of the 90s. The same quality of bula in arsenal optics, which is called tears on the eyes, that shavings in helicoids.
Good afternoon. There is a samyang 10mm 2.8 ED AS NCS CS lens for pentax K mount
What DSLR from this company can you recommend in the budget up to 200-250 dollars?
Only from used, if there is something working.
Yes, I would like at least some models that fit, maybe I’ll buy something more expensive)
Here is an example rentax K-s2 . Will it be no problem there?
On any Pentax will. Even on film. Bayonet is the same.
Gentlemen, who can tell me? There is a lens from some Olimpus. It's called ZUIKO DIGITAL 14-42mm 1:3,5-5,6 ED Fit for 58mm filters. How can I get him to sniff a Canon 350d? What kind of adapter is needed? I know that there is a list of adapters somewhere here, but, for the life of me, I can’t find it. Thank you for your attention.
This lens was a whale lens for old 4/3 format cameras (not to be confused with m4/3!).
“This lens comes as a part of the Olympus E-400, E-410 and E-510 kits.”
If you urgently need to find a camera for this lens, then they are listed above, as an option, the Olympus E-500 (with a KODAK CCD matrix) is also suitable.
You won’t put it on the Canon 350D - this is a larger matrix format than a double crop.
At 350d, it's better to look for a native whale 18-55 (it's cheap at flea markets) or 17-55 if you want something good :)
Thank you
Good evening, but I want to return to my question and annoy you some more. And this Look what is on AliExpress! Olympus OM lens mount adapter ring (not 4/3) for US $5.18 - already discounted -12%
https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=2zRuZWo is not it?
Even if you find the right adapter, then there is no point in attaching this lens to Canon. Canon has a larger sensor than Olympus. The lens simply does not cover the entire area of the matrix.
Not it. Completely different bayonets, working lengths and matrix coverage area.
Hello. Tell me, please, how to manually focus during the day on a very accurate infinity? Sigma 135-400 lens with infinity travel. At night I focus using a Bakhtinov mask.
Good day. Dear community, please share your experience.
Will there be a difference in the width of the corner, on the crop, between Pentacon Auto 1.8/50 Multi Coating and 44 Helios (44-2 in particular).
The difference in crop between 50mm and 58mm is noticeable.
Why do you plan to use lenses with such a crop focal length?
Architecture. Conditional “landscapes” - so that the angle, again conditionally, is in the middle of the “range” between 18 on efs18-55 and Helios.
There's no way the middle of the range will come out there.
You need to look at 30mm somewhere.
I understand it. I wrote “conditionally”)
The essence of the question is that when shooting, say, a building, from a certain point at 44-2, 50% of the building will fit into the frame, and from this very point, shooting on Pentacon, what% of the building will fit into the frame?
55%
Well, (58/50)*50, understandable, no?))
Those. The Pentacon's frame is almost 60% wider. And the actual frame width (on the crop) corresponds to the calculated one?
I don’t understand how you got it 60% wider)
They wrote that the building was 50%, and he replied, “58% of the building will fit.”
)))) It’s still more fun, but on my whale, the upper limit of the zoom is 55 - just twist it one by one and look at the result.
In any case, very grateful for the advice.
Of the fixes 30mm and smaller, (for crop) for thread, what is worth looking for besides the same WORLDS o_0
If you need a short-focus (wide-angle) crop lens, and an inexpensive one at that, then you have only one cost-effective solution.
This is a kit lens of the 18-55mm type. At the short end it has a viewing angle of 75°.
Theoretically, you can look for ultra-wide lenses like 20 mm (Mir-20 or analogues), or fisheye Zenitar 16 mm, but they will be much more expensive, larger and without AF.
The same Pentacon 29 2.8 for example. I had a fifty-kopeck pentacon and it left a very pleasant impression.
https://radojuva.com/2012/03/pentacon-auto-2-8-29-mc/
Good afternoon and evening everyone.
I got my hands on a Zenit camera with HELIOS-44-2 2/58. Well, having said that, I’ll try to understand this lens. Camera Nikon D7200. I use an adapter M42-Nikon F without a lens, but with the lens installed on the camera, you can only take pictures from a very close distance (15-20cm), such as macro. I bought an M42-Nikon F adapter with a lens and ran into a problem. If you attach the lens to the adapter, you cannot turn the focus to infinity, since when focusing, the internal lens of the lens presses into the adapter lens. Maybe I'm not timid correctly? Are you wondering how to properly use the adapter for manual lenses and whether you need to change this in the camera settings (by changing the “lens without CPU” paragraph in the settings)?
This is a rotten crossover.
Which one is good?