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Hello Arkady, tell me if there is any way other than prof. flashes, fight with a shadow from 17-55 2.8, filmed children in children. garden, there is a beige carpet, if you cover it up in the editor, the stain remains in the legs anyway, this lens gives a concrete shadow.
Only external flash (on-camera and remote, synchronized). Not necessarily super professional.
Lord, with such a lens and puffing with a built-in flash in the forehead - this in itself is a creepy bad manners.
Buy at least a manual Chinese dollar for 50.
a frame in front of your nose, what's creepy there? and save the manual Chinese for yourself.
The creepy thing is that everything is flat, like a pancake. Well, if you don’t see this, you can continue to fight with the shadow from the lens, considering this the only problem)))
Manual Chinese - do not believe it - I use it with pleasure.
Yes, take any with the ability to puff up (and if it is to the side, it can also come in handy, but much less often), like sb300, sb400. On sb400, I put on a home-made reflector-blade, I got diffused light from the puff upwards and part of it directed forward. Cheap and efficient.
Buy an external sb-700\600\800\900 and aim it at the ceiling.
Arkady, health, happiness to you and your family!
Happy New Year!
thank you
Hello Arkady! What would you advise to take within 50 tr. used of course. I shoot mostly objects, furniture, sometimes a portrait. I don’t know what to choose, Nikon d000, d610, d750s? What would you suggest? maybe something else altogether?
What are you already filming? (it is better to call prices in another currency, for rubles consultations are over here)
Now a simple d3300, then 700 dollars))
From what you listed, d610. d3s is great, but heavy and big. Don't forget ff optics.
Do you recommend D750?
It doesn't make much sense. Unnecessary overpayment, besides, kosyachnye parties slipped through.
In general, for a portrait, take the second nickel and 85 / 1.8 usm, in total it will be cheaper than 50000)) And for objects, leave 3300.
Thank you very much! Do you mean 5d mark ii?
Yes, him.
I have a problem with the Yongnuo 85mm f1.8 lens on a Canon EOS M200 mirrorless using an adapter. it shows the following message. this message appears like i am using the kit lens and it has a button. can you help me solve it? (sorry this photo is in Indonesian)
This means your lens does not fit the camera even with an adapter.
Hello Arkady!
I have been shooting with the Nikon D5000 for many years. Recently, there has been a need for an external flash, since events have appeared in dimly lit halls, where it is simply impossible to shoot without it. I choose between Nikon SB 600 and Yongnuo Speedlight yn560 III (both BUs). Tell me, please, which one is better to take?
Natives are usually better.
Good afternoon!
I have Nikon D5200
Recommend an inexpensive telephoto for nature photography (animals, birds). With a focal length, I think about 400.
Does it make sense to take a manual focus lens for such purposes (in my case), like the Tamron AF LD 200-400mm 1: 5.6 75DN Nikon F Lens?
Thank you!
If you have time to focus, you can take it, if inexpensive. There are af options like 70-300, there are a lot of reviews here. There are also 18-300, 16-300, 18-400 from Tamron. Manually it will be quite difficult to get into focus, 200-400 is very heavy, and even a piston, it is very inconvenient to hand-hold. There is from Nikon 200-500 5,6, but much more expensive. In your case (IMHO), Nikon 70-300 af \ p is optimal. Sharp, fast, should be af with your camera. There are a lot of other nuances here, if you are interested in shooting very wild animals, then neither 300 nor 400 will save you.
Thank you!
There are 55-200, sometimes there is not enough focal length.
Will it make sense to change to Nikon 70-300 af \ p?
For wildlife and bird photography, the longer the better. Birds are very different in size, as well as other animals. One photographer who shoots birds beautifully started on crop (D7100, 7200) using 70-300 VR. Then she got 200-500 5,6 and D500. I also used teleconverters 1,4 and 2. There is also an example of poultry olympus breeders. Those love Olikovskiy 400mm + also converters. Taking into account their crop from efr 800 and above. This is a serious approach and serious money. But the result is awesome. With a manual focus on a telephoto lens, you are tormented.
I was wrong about Olek. M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 300mm 1: 4.0 IS PRO is called, ether 600mm.
Hello. How to find out the year of manufacture of a Nikon camera? Is it possible by serial number?
Why such precision?
Good afternoon!
Please tell me how important VR is at a focal length of 300mm.
There are two Nikon AF-P 70-300mm DX VR and Nikon AF-P 70-300mm lenses, one with VR and one without.
The price difference is two times.
Which one is better to buy?
On long tricks, + crop is important. The stub allows you to use slower shutter speeds and lower ISO values. But. Shooting moving objects + shooting from a tripod is a taboo. The stub also increases power consumption.
Thank you!
Namely, for shooting animals and birds, is it not needed? Shooting will be from a tripod.
And if football, for example, is filmed on the street?
Well, consider it for yourself: for medium-trembling hands, the shutter speed should be 1 / EGF, in the case of a 300mm FR on a crop, S = 1/300 * 1,5 = 1/450s, given that it is desirable to cover the aperture to 8 at least - no iso is not enough. And with a stub you can shoot at 1/60, iso is enough. Conclusion: enough money - take it with a stub, no - you will spit. With a tripod, something motionless and not in a hurry to shoot is good, it greatly interferes with efficiency and mobility. Especially for birds and football players.
If the shooting conditions are not ideal (and they rarely are), then save up for a lens with a stub.
For good, already from 85mm it is desirable to have a stub, from 105mm it is already needed (IMHO).
Another such moment, if you shoot outdoors on televisions with large lens hoods, then side wind can noticeably affect, so it’s better to save up for a lens with a stub.
In my opinion, it is clearly written - turn off moving stub objects, otherwise you will get the opposite of the expected effect - lubrication. The faster your objects move (birds, football players, etc.), the faster the shutter speed (but not to the point of insanity). There are many shooting techniques, motion blur is sometimes used to add dynamics to the frame. It's all through trial and error and practice.
Hello! Do not tell me what is the problem? I purchased a CCTV 25mm f1.4 lens with an adapter for Nikon F (I planned to use it on Nikon d3200). The image is blurred as much as possible, as if there is no focus. The aperture works, the focus ring rotates, but focusing does not occur. I use the “M” mode, of course. Is this a lens defect?
This lens is only suitable for mirrorless cameras. Details here.
Clear. Thank!
Friends, I've decided to sell the D70 and I need to find out the battery life, at least approximately. In the options I did not find a scale from 0 to 4, as in more modern carcasses. Any ideas on how to at least approximately estimate the resource without “loading it to the full and dropping it with a photo to the bottom”?
The detail of the question lies in the fact that I have 2 Nikon D70 and 2 Nikon D70s, it happened)
7 pieces of batteries, I want to keep 2-3 things for myself and sell one D70 and D70s, perhaps 2 batteries each. I sell on the site where it is desirable to meticulously describe the condition of the entire set. I would not like to send 2 batteries for 500 shots to one buyer, and 2 to 50 for the second)
You should at least test them.
Hello. I am using Nikon D500. Who knows for sure, from my own experience, what is the maximum amount of memory cards supported by this camera, cf type b and sdxc? Interested in 256 GB, I'm going to order by mail from Ali, I want to be sure, thanks in advance
any
Arkady, thanks for the answer. I meant if the camera supports a volume of 256 GB or more, and not the card format itself
No problem. And even 1 TB eats and will work
Thank you very much for your attention
focus on the eyes
Hello, Arkady.
I have a small CZJ Tessar 6.5cm f/4.5 lens that I haven't been able to find any information about yet - neither on eBay, nor on collectiblend, nor on lens-club. Could you say something about it in absentia, or can you somehow pass it on for testing? In general, this is far from the only lens I have about which there is not a lot of information, I don’t know if you are at least somehow interested, I could give something from the available for reviews.
Ernst Wandersleb and Paul Rudolph's Tessar f/4.5 line had a variety of lenses. Basically, they have the same angle - about 45 degrees, that is, the FR determines the format for which the lens was intended. 65 mm is something strange, of course. Maybe the lens was used in photo enlarger-type installations or in some technical cameras of a non-standard format.
Thanks Rodion!
Good day! Yaku bv tehnіku Vi b pleased on a budget of 30-40000 UAH?
I shoot at once on nikon d5100, two lenses nikorr AS-F 1,8, 35mm and 50mm. I mainly photograph women's portraits, family and child photo shoots. For a long time I wanted to go to the last frame, because I thought that there would be a side picture, I looked at it to buy a nikon d750, I tested it with a friend on my 50mm and didn’t get the retail of my photos on my crop and on the d750. Plus, I read a look around on your website and earlier comments, now I’m not impressed in my choice. Is it possible to please your carcass and bring it to life? Not in principle nikon, I look at all options. Dyakuyu!
There is no right choice. D750 is a good option, but the era of SLR cameras is gone, you should already look at mirrorless options https://radojuva.com/2019/05/milc-madness-returns/
If you don't see a difference, it's probably too early for you to change something.
Hello Arkady. There is a Fujinon Pegasus III lens from a TV camera. He does not cover the matrix from kenon 550 and his working length is too small (mount B4) am I thinking correctly:
This lens can only be paired with cameras like Nikon J1 ???
it is possible with other mirrorless cameras, the same micro or Sony, the latter can add any additional crop 1.4 more programmatically to the 2 crop
Good afternoon. Arkady, I watched your interview about the Fuji S5Pro. I have a pair of S3Pros. You said that after 10 years of active use of the bug, you found a way to increase the burst buffer almost to infinity. Share your experience. Thank you.
three tricks
1. The 'SETUP->DISPLAY->IMAGE DISPLAY->OFF' function adds 1 RAW or JPEG frame with extended D-Range to the buffer.
2. If 'SETUP -> DISPLAY -> IMAGE DISPLAY' is set to 'CONTINUOS', or '4 SEC, or '2 SEC', then the camera is very slow in writing footage to the memory card. The write speed does not depend on the bandwidth of the memory card. Even if you use the fastest CF memory card, the data writing speed will not change. Most likely, the problem is that after each frame is recorded, the camera spends time re-reading it and displaying it, which significantly increases the recording time for the remaining frames from the frame buffer queue. After the frame buffer is full, one picture is recorded within 2.5 seconds, even if it is a JPEG of small size 'S' with medium quality 'NORM'. This function can be disabled and significantly increase the duration of a series of frames. If you use this recommendation, then in 1 minute of shooting, the S5 Pro can take about 70 JPEG L FINE shots (at w2 and ISO <=640). 3. When using ISO 800 and above, additional forced noise reduction is turned on, which leads to slower recording of pictures on the memory card (pictures undergo additional noise reduction processing before recording). This results in shorter bursts at ISO <=640 and ISO >=800.
Rather, it was not about the buffer, but about a series of frames. With these settings in JPEG format, you can shoot without serious hesitation constantly at a speed of about 1-1.5 fps (W2, 12 MP).
For S3 Pro, if you turn off the preview, use the XD H card, then the camera also works almost without a hitch in JPEG (L, WIDE, 12 Mp)
Good afternoon, Arkady.
Nikon D3 does not record aperture number information. All other information about the picture is available, the aperture value does not change and shows - 1. I tried different lenses - 80-200 / 2.8, 50 / 1.4d.
update firmware
Hello Arkady. I tried to parfocal the Fujinon aspheric TV zoom lens
bayonet B4. Sadness, I suspect it wants + - 0.1 mm accuracy, and maybe 0.05. I'm making models on a regular security camera and monitor. I want to install on Nikon 1 (the matrix is \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbsuitable and the device is not expensive). Is it really that hard? Maybe I'm doing it wrong? I caught parfocality, but it runs away by a fraction of a millimeter.
Who will need it - for the B4 mount - working length 48 mm (as measured)
Can I leave this lens as a varifocal and not bother?
As a varifocal it works great.
The Nikon 1 J1 has a very short working distance, which allows you to use many manual lenses from rangefinder cameras (your comment) - this “M” mode is not in this piece of iron.
I read my passport 10 times) She does not physically support alien lenses. maybe I didn’t read well7 That’s an ordinary soap dish with a detachable connection.
Good day, shanovny pan Arkady!
May I reconsider that the photographs need to be taken on paper. Make a friend, order a friend from a photo store. Bachiv in the sale of streaming photo printers, but chuv, scho photos from them may have a richer shorter period of life and flourish brightly. Maybe a myth? Tell me, be kind about different ways and ways to each other and ї*+/-.
PS: amateur photographer who got infected with cim hobi itself on your site.
I have been printing on a 6-color printer for many years, photos burn out strongly from any paint and any paper, if they are not in an album (without the influence of the sun). If in the album - for 15 years imperceptibly. Now I print exclusively in photo labs, a lot.
and they also burn out behind glass, but less than without glass, they also burn out just on the wall in the room, when the Sun couldn’t shine on them, and still the pictures ordered somewhere look better than just printed on glossy paper on a Canon inkjet printer. And the colors in the original cartridge are a little better than the ink from alik
Hello!
My head is twisted, I can’t figure out why, with a long shutter speed, the photo on the screen turns out to be light, and with a short shutter speed, it turns out dark? Do the matrix and f / film work differently? And which pictures can be improved in editors, light or dark (see picture)? Maybe this topic has already been somewhere - I will be glad to link to it.
Thank you in advance!
Yes, it went overboard so it went overboard.
With a slow shutter speed, more light enters the matrix than necessary = the photo is bright, with a short shutter speed - very little light enters the matrix = the photo is dark. It's the same on film. It is necessary to improve the original in the editors, the results about dark and light depend on the specific camera and the processing program.
“Man”, that’s THAT and it’s not clear to me why the film and the matrix have a different “reaction” to slow shutter speeds. After all, the f / film (emulsion layer) in this case turns black (dark frame), and why does the matrix then brighten (light frame)? It turns out that you need to mentally perceive (mean) the f / a screen as “photo paper”, that is, from a black negative you will get a LIGHT photo, and from a light negative - a dark one, of course, with the same shutter speed when printing. So what?
Note: I just once read that “the matrix is the same as f / film”, so I can’t enter. :(
Note2: I meant which image has MORE details that can be “pulled out” when editing, a dark one or a light one? (For example: in a dark negative, more details are preserved than in a light negative. But what about this case with a digital frame?). :(
In order not to breed a flood because of my “stupidity”, I will no longer comment or clarify, but I will be grateful to everyone who will clarify where the screws in this trouble turned wrong in my brain. Thank you!
The matrix gives a "positive" image. A film negative that behaves in the same way as a matrix when printed.
And pulling the details is best and normally exposed image. With underexposure and overexposure, details are lost (in shadows and highlights, respectively). It’s a little easier to “pull” the shadows, but it’s better to get a high-quality source from the beginning. The end result will be better.
Gentlemen, thank you all for your help!
I found the answer: https://photo-sasha.ru/article-2019-05-30-operating-principle-of-digital-camera?ysclid=lg310l14mr680296032
The question is settled.
Chemistry and physics, no?
Arkady (and everyone reading this question), hello. Need your advice.
Now I have nikon d5100 + 18-105 + helios44m6. Everything suits, the mileage is less than 20k. There is an option to buy a d7000 (mileage 23k) with tamron 17-50 (after selling a d5100 carcass with gel, for example, and with my surcharge). Is it worth it? I am aware of the same matrices, but the d7000 attracts an “infopogon”, a screwdriver and a little bit of a lens. We can inexpensively take 55-300 and 50 1.8d for him.
There is also an idea to buy a nikon dx 35mm 1.8 to the existing setup and calm down. I am in thought. What would you do and what do people who read this question to the end think. Thank you
Look at the camera and lens, check. Especially Tamron. In general, it’s not entirely clear, everything suits you, but you can buy 35 more ... Apparently, something is missing.
Good afternoon. Guys, maybe someone has a Samsung program lying around for their nx cameras (nx300, for example) for transferring files from the camera to the computer via wi-fi. It's called Samsung PC Auto Backup.
It is clear that you can throw it over a cable or get a memory card, but you don’t want to. Samsung technical support, alas, does not give - cameras are no longer included in the list of supported products. It's not in the download center either.
Good afternoon, Arkady. Nikkor 28-105 / 3.5-4.5 when the lens block moves from a wide angle, the aperture spontaneously closes and autofocus disappears. Especially critical in macro mode. You can return it to working condition only by mechanically pressing it down by 28mm. I sin on the diaphragm train.
If you do not make an effort, then the minimum aperture number is 28mm. Indicates 4.5 instead of 3.5, and 105 - 29 instead of 22.
I did not find the “manual optics” section and, accordingly, contacts.
The question is. Probably now it is useless to look for an MS APO Telezenitar 4,5 / 300 lens with an M42x1 threaded connection? Probably this was preserved only in the KMZ museum.
only for collectors
Hello, dear Arkady, please tell me, I recently purchased Canon 5d Mark2 for experiments, only the carcass itself.
Now the question is, when resetting to factory settings, a message pops up that the camera is busy and the reset does not occur, the shutter counter is also disabled.
How to reset the settings to factory settings and reset the camera.
I haven't used Canon before.
Have you tried a reset without a memory card?
Good afternoon, without a card it also does not reset
In the trash, unfortunately.
Why, what's the reason
Your camera is dead( A drowned woman, most likely. If she still fusses, she will die soon. Conclusion: do not buy used remotely without checking. And not used either, just in case.