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Good afternoon! Tell me for shooting the interior which camera and lens is better to choose? For professional shooting, not for a realtor.
Better fullframe. The lens is a fixed-wide angle, for ff it is 24mm and wider, but not fish-eye. + Lighting. Professional photography requires a professional photographer.
Does Nikon d750 AA have a filter thanks to everyone
Yes.
Hello, which one should I choose for Nikon d 3200: Nikon Nikkor-P 180 mm f/ 2.8 Ai, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 ED AS IF UMC Cine Lens, or youngnou 100 2?
I think the Yong 100/2 is a better start because of the AF. In general, I would recommend first something autofocus from the 50 / 1.4 or 30 / 1.4 class, if you haven’t got it yet.
Question about the compatibility of the Jupiter 9 2/85 mm lens with the Nikon D3100 camera
Will I be able to focus to infinity with an adapter without a lens, or do I still need to purchase an adapter with a lens?
You won’t be able to without a lens, but with a lens adapter there will be even more soap than usual on this lens. But maybe you will.)
good day. tell me what you know about this lens. I didn’t find it on your website https://www.olx.pl/d/oferta/stary-obiektyw-carl-zeiss-jena-4-135-exa-CID767-IDNh8KT.html ?rea
Same (almost) as https://radojuva.com/2013/03/czj-ddr-sonnar-135mm-f-3-5-exakta-zebra/
Is it worth the money then or is it better not to chase
I wouldn't chase after this.
Hello! Please tell me, I have a NIKON d200 and a TAIR-33 lens mount 'B' (as you have in the review), I'm interested in the adapter: KP-88N the original cannot be found, but there is an analogue on aliexperss (I go to your link in the review, there PENTAKON-NIK for 1368r (in the description it says that it is for pentacon 6 and this is B mount)?
Hello comrades. I do not know where to write, I'll try here. I bought Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G, I like everything. I tried to shoot a video - it does not work. The camera (Nikon D3400) turns on the recording, then it takes about 30-40 seconds and the recording turns off (the video is not saved), a memory card error occurs: the memory card cannot be used. At the same time, everything works fine on the whale AF-P and the video is recorded as much as necessary, and if it is interrupted due to heating, then the piece is saved. What am I doing wrong? (tried both 60FPS and 30FPS all the same). Thank you.
You are doing everything right. Try to record a video without a lens, look at the result. And with M focus mode at 35 1.8
Thank you, everything is fine in manual mode.
Good day! Guys, help with the choice between 35 and 50 for crop, a beginner, I use whale 18-55, I'm no longer interested. I shoot mostly in nature, mountains, lakes, sometimes in the city, but indoors a phone with a good camera can also cope. Thank you all in advance.
https://radojuva.com/2014/01/35-vs-50/
First of all, decide on the focal point. Analyze pictures at your 18-55, taken at fr 35 and 50 mm. If you are shooting a landscape, then both of these focal lengths are narrow.
Thank you for your reply! I looked at my photos that are saved in the cloud, it turns out that I shoot mainly at 55 mm, but I shot a little at 30 and 18 mm, I just took a few photos at 35 and 50 mm on my 18-55, I liked 50mm the most. But it seems to me that on a crop with a fifty dollars it will not be easy))
)
7,0-109
??
Greetings to all! Interested in the question. I'm considering buying my first DSLR. A camera is necessary for nature photography (visible landscapes are a priority), architecture, sometimes portraits, purely as a hobby. Before that, I shot it on a smartphone, the Flagship of 2018. (Photo makes decent enough). But shooting on a smart phone is somehow not serious. (The process itself). Of the cameras, I singled out the Canon 650D and Nikon D5200. The price tags are comparable, about 15-20k rubles. But then I learned that for the most part Nikon lenses are more expensive than Canon ones, and you also need to take the 5200 with a motor. And then I discovered the Nikon D7000. The price per carcass is about 7-10k more than on the D5200. (And more shoots, 30-50k shots). Yes, and it’s more difficult to find them. (But there is a screwdriver, and as I understand it, moisture protection, + a longer shutter resource). There is, for example, 7100, but it already costs almost 3 times more than 5200, namely 45-50k. (For a test, I think it's a little expensive).
And there is another question, but with what mileage in terms of the number of frames is it reasonable to buy these cameras?
P.S. video is not interested at all, tk. They will shoot it even worse than smart.
P.S.S. Inner instinct tells me that the most reasonable choice would be the D5200 + purchase of a quality lens. But the D7000 seems to be not bad either ... The following models in the 5xxx series currently cost just horse money, but in fact and reviews, I realized that there are almost no differences.
When buying the first camera, it is worth considering that the Canon EF-S and Nikon F systems are unlikely to develop further and it is unlikely that new native lenses will be released for these two mounts.
Fuji or Sony UPC crop cameras will be more promising, but such a kit, alas, is more expensive and it will be more difficult to assemble on Avito.
For the first test (and with a small budget), there is no big difference what to buy IMHO.
You can also look at the Canon 60D.
I noticed that if a boxed whale Nikon D5100, Nikon D7000 or Canon 60D or Sony a57 is put up on Avito, then mostly amateurs used it and the condition is usually not bad.
With the purchase of a good lens for crop, I recommend not to rush, but to practice on a whale lens and then understand whether you will stay on this system or buy a UPC or switch to full frame.
If you take a used one, this article on typical breakdowns, indicating models of photographic equipment, may come in handy:
https://photo-parts.com.ua/customers/36-top-20-dslr-repairs
Thank you very much for such a detailed answer, but do not tell me which specific models of Fuji and Sony should look at? As I understand it, if you lay it for the future, then this is only a BZK?
It is difficult to plan for the future by the standards of photographic equipment. All the more bzk.
I advise you to ask what happened to nikon1, samsung nx, samsung nx mini, and maybe canon ef-m will join them soon.
Of the two brands, Sony has noticeably more budget optics, fuja has a slightly decent color (just a little, subjectively, but it’s better to look with your own eyes), and one and the second system STILL stand quite firmly on their feet.
But for the most part, as I understand it, they are now taken to shoot a video? Can you get a photo that is very different in quality from, say, the junior / middle Canon / Nikon line?
Now you can’t get bad photos on any of the relatively new cameras, it seems)
I would not recommend the crop system of Nikon DSLRs because of the small amount of good modern optics. EF-s is doing better. But both of these systems are dead, that is, we will have to be content with what we already have. There will be no new one.
Not bad, but also a dead system - Sony A. A lot of good old and new optics, the choice is even more interesting at times than for EF-s. The system uses a mechanical diaphragm drive, screwdriver lenses - that's why there are problems in the cold.
From the mirrorless camp, cameras with fast phase AF are quite expensive (obviously more expensive than 650d), but there is a sea for solution manuals. Take the same simple and worth a penny Sony A3500 with a 20 megapixel matrix and an E mount, for which there are just a bunch of good manual Chinese lenses.
“Now you can’t get bad photos on any of the relatively new cameras, it seems”
Yes, since about 2008
Alexander:
Old Fuji for video shooting is not very popular - here on the site there is a review of the old X-T1: https://radojuva.com/2020/05/fujifilm-x-t1/
On the camera - think about how much budget you can lay. If you need a used one, look for sellers with a good reputation on Avito. For the first time, Nikon d5100/5200/5300/7000 or Canon 60/600/650/700D with a whale lens will be enough, just to fill your hand and so that the camera is not particularly a pity if you drown it in a fountain. And then - according to the situation. There are reviews of these cameras on Radozhiv.
As an option - what Rodion advises: take a simple Sony.
Older mirrorless cameras are not very good for shooting video.
Those that make videos well (in modern realities) do not fit into your budget.
But for a photo - it is quite possible to take. As Rodion correctly noted above, the Chinese have indeed released a lot of budget manuals for both Fuji and Sony.
But I would watch Sony. Under it, there are three wonderful budget autofocusers 19/30/60 with 2.8 from Sigma and 16/30/56 with 1.4 from it. Under Fuji (as well as under Sony) there are 1.4 Viltrox fixes, but they are inferior to Sigma in terms of picture quality, and native optics for Fuji are quite expensive.
The only thing is to think about a more compact model - the same nex 6 (if you need a viewfinder) or a series of fives - if you don’t need it.
If you want, a couple of photos from the budget nex F3 (bought for 3 tyr on Avito) and sigma 19mm (for 6 tyr in the same place)
2
3
Thank you very much to everyone for such detailed answers, now I will think about it and look for suitable options on Avito.
The question is, if we increase the budget, say, to 35k, and choose the UPC (as a reserve for the future), then I look at this budget includes the Sony A5100 and A6000. Are there any strong complaints about the camera data? Can they be considered for purchase?
You do not forget that the lens still needs to be bought. Sony A6000 will be better, but that's not the point. You are now following the path of many beginners who ask similar questions: “bzk or bkk”, “if you increase the budget”, etc. If you buy a used camera, then not only the mileage figure is important. A camera with low mileage could be dropped, drowned, dried out and put up for sale. It is necessary to check when buying and check carefully. SLR or bzk is also not so important. You don't know how things will go for you. Maybe you will not like it) And you will buy the most advanced equipment) Focus on the goals of your shooting and, depending on them, consider the technique. Architecture, landscape, occasionally portrait? Here, even an autofocus lens is optional)
There are no strong complaints about these cameras, you can consider buying) The differences between them, as far as I remember, the main one is the presence of a viewfinder in 6000.
2BRP: well, he's not considering the a6600, but the 6000 has long been not the most advanced equipment)) But I would take something simpler, 5n, 5r, 5t.
:)
Hello
Lo primero de todo decir que no tengo ni idea de fotografía… Os comento, vamos a hacer un safari y queria preguntaros haber si alguien me recomienda un zoom barato y medio decente. Vamos a hacer un safari y la cámara que tenemos, una nikon d3300, el optica que tiene es muy pobre, y para fotografiar animales no nos va a valer. Estuve mirando la tamron AF LD 200-400 que fue por la que encontré este foro al buscarla. Os parece buena esta o hay alguna otra mejor por ese precio más o menos?
Thanks in advance!
El tamron AF LD 200-400 no se enfocará automáticamente con su cámara. Vea lentes con un motor de enfoque automatico incorporado. https://radojuva.com/2019/10/nikon-af-p-dx-nikkor-70-300mm-4-5-6-3g-ed-vr/
https://radojuva.com/2011/10/obzor-nikon-70-300mm-f-4-5-5-6g-ed-if-af-s-vr-zoom-nikkor/
https://radojuva.com/2013/07/nikon-55-300-vr-ed-dx-review/
Hello! Tell me, please, I am faced with a choice: Nikkor 80-200 2.8D (mkII or mkIII version) or AF 75-300 4.5-6.6. As I understand it, both lenses equally have high artistic merit, with an elegant pattern, excellent and adequate color, excellent bokeh and very good sharpness, pleasing to the eye, no problems with HA and so on. The difference in these glasses is greater, as I understand it, only in terms of functionality? 35-700 - a larger range of distances and at the same time TWO TIMES (!) Less weight and two-three-four times ... five times lower price. But at 80-200, the transfer of the distance to the camera, where there is a large open, bright hole, faster focus. I confess that the choice was very difficult for me. In any case, my goals are primarily creative, the main thing that determines is the beauty of the drawing, and then everything else, which is just as important for me. I plan to shoot more with a similar lens in the open air, on the street and in nature, while traveling, because. for shorter focal lengths (for example, to shoot indoors) I have good optics, incl. Nikkor 85 1.4D and many other interesting things that I just don’t have except for a long zoom. I will definitely work on film of all 35mm stripes, and on digital (S3 Pro is the main one, as well as D40 / D80, 5DClassic through an adapter), but film will still be the main thing for me. Over the past time, I clearly realized for myself that I had become very short of a zoomed (or even just a cool telephoto telephoto from at least 180mm) lens, after the sale of my two available ones. PS Still thinking about Vivitar Series 1 70-210 2.8-4. Moreover, how…
Much appreciated!
Michael
Definitely need a bright lens to take. Better mk3
Arkady, why do you think so, what is the “uniqueness”? The argument is weighty. It would be important and very useful for me to know your opinion.
“Because because” (c).
“I will definitely work on film of all 35mm stripes”
If you are from the Russian Federation, please tell me where you plan to buy it.
After February 24, the Fuji disappeared. Kodak remained GOLD200, ULTRAMAX400, and PORTRA160/400/800 with doubled prices.
That's right, I'm from Russia. There are difficulties with the film and, apparently, there will be more of them in the future. Indeed, in offices, online stores, there are fewer and fewer colored amateur segments, especially Fuji Superiy, but in some places they even exist. Available in B&W.
Look for it on OZONE, there is plenty of fresh stuff from different suppliers, regular prices, and, most importantly, free delivery. Type in the names of the brands “Ilford”, “Fujifilm Superia”, “Fujifilm Velvia”, etc. on OZONE into the search engine, and the platform will offer you many options. It can also give out a delay, the hallmark is a low price tag, so check it out, but basically there is only a new film. Look, look for private sellers, film bloggers as well (I won’t give ads here, but you can write to me, I’ll leave contacts if you ask, but I don’t see the point for you in this, because I think you’ll have enough suggested in this message ). Another sure win-win option is Avito. There is enough of everything at the moment, both fresh and expired, where on the secondary without it. The only thing I note is that the 35 mm Ektachrome completely disappeared from the professional line in Russia, only 120 for fabulously expensive. If you really want it, then just regularly monitor updated offers on Avito, suddenly someone decides to sell.
I buy in Moscow SREDA (sreda.photo) and Color Point.
A month and a half ago, the cinematic Kodak Vision3 50D/250D/500T were the most profitable purchases. But about 2 weeks ago they were completely dismantled.
I also often buy on Wednesday, because, although I live in Siberia, I always order something on Wednesday - print or send film for development and scan, they put the purchases back in the parcel. Their price tags are good, cheaper than in my city in shops. In Wednesday, by the way, Fuji negative has already been sorted out, but the slide is enough.
I also forgot to mention Aliexpress. In which case, all hopes will be on him, the choice there is quite large, although not everything is there. For example, I was not able to find the important for me Ilford Pan 50 there, but in the Russian Federation, however, it is now enough. There is almost no fomapan. But, surprisingly, a film for a large format, both color and BW, is exhibited. The price tags for Ali are different, including very profitable ones, I saw Kodak Gold 36 frames for 900-950 rubles. We have it costs 1700-1900 rubles. There are also various Chinese films, such as Shanghai and others (some Nolan, etc.), which are not known to us at all. I saw Adox Scala 50 - a rare CW with us. In our market, there are generally few offers for ISO below 100, and such sensitivity is significant, as you know, in one classic genre beloved by everyone.
Dear visitors of the “Radozhiva” platform! I would very much like to know your opinion on another issue, I will be grateful for your response. I monitored Arkady's article and the comment thread on the Jupiter-37A lens, scoured the photo forums, but I could not find the information I needed. Maybe for someone besides me, this question will also be relevant. Actually, to the point. As you know, Jupiter-37A has more than one version. These are the early ones without MS, the subsequent Olympic and further MS and MS-30-N (it costs many times more, but, probably, as my intelligence managed to establish, it does not stand out in anything super-outstanding, except for the inscription and a smaller circulation). Do the versions differ in quality, maybe some are better, others less? Like, for example, Helios-81. Some say that the Olympic 37-A keeps the quality bar higher, but is it true? It is quite logical to assume that it could be so, but who knows.
Arkady has reviews for all versions of Yu-37. Everything is laid out there. The difference in quality is not worth the difference in price.
All versions of these lenses are about 40 years old. Think about how lenses of this age can differ, besides the fact that they are different versions?
Hello Arkady!
Is it possible to buy a lens, the ad says that it is not recognized by the camera after unsuccessful firmware?
Can I fix the firmware myself? Panasonic micro 4/3 lens.
Also, this question to everyone, can anyone come across such a problem?
Do not be.
Hello! Can you please tell me if it is a good idea to use a macro lens (for example, Nikkora Micro 55mm 2.8, 105mm, etc. Tokina AF ATX Pro 100mm 2.8 macro, etc.) for landscape photography, is it? Logic suggests that the use of macro in landscape photography should be the most optimal solution (consider “resolution”) for this genre due to the uniform distribution of sharpness over the entire image field, enhanced sharpness and micro-contrast.
Thank you!
If you like the angle that a 100mm lens will give you, then why not?
Usually requires a wider (although not always)
Nothing is perfect in the material world. There can't be a macro lens that's as good for a landscape. Of course, you can sew a mosaic from pieces, but convenience is lost.
Understood, thank you very much! The question was not about the viewing angles and the composition of the frame, but the suspected particularly effective possibilities for working out details, i.e. detail, sharpness, its uniformity, contrast and micro-contrast.
Naturally, it was not completed - autofocus on this lens will only work on cameras with a screwdriver, which the d3100 does not have.
The lens is from film cameras, on the crop there will be quite a problem with a wide angle. I sometimes take pictures of flowers like this, or some distant views, and portraits can be. His picture is “fat”, so to speak, but the application will be rather limited))
And hello again, dear visitors of the portal "Radozhiva"! Tell me, please, how to SPECIFICALLY finish three Nikon flashes: SB800 (as a master) and two SB28s? Both wireless and wired methods (what kind of cords are needed in this case specifically?). Is it also possible to make this bundle of flashes work through a radio synchronizer with a remote control function on the following used cameras: Nikon F90X and F801 film cameras, as well as digital Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro. If I'm not mistaken, due to its age, not every remote control radio synchronizer is suitable for the Fuji S3 Pro. Maybe it will be possible, for example, the Godox X1N TTL variant, the one for 3 thousand rubles?
THANK YOU SO MUCH
Tell me, is there an autofocus (or regular) adapter for a Canon XL lens to a Canon RF mount?
Well, what's the point? With such a crop.
I think the mb lens covers more there in order to improve the optical quality in the center of the frame.
Very doubtful. And then, it's not just about covering the frame. Working distance, electronics compatibility.
Finally closed the comments on https://radojuva.com/2022/06/lovest-cats-and-dogs/
Hello ,
please tell me what filter to use when shooting a person at night, when there are a lot of bright lights, advertisements, car headlights on all sides, some flicker, and some are not moving, anyway, and because of them, 10% of utter soap and 70% are very uncertain and focus for a long time.
The task is to make the first frame good
A light filter will not help here. Manual focus is needed.
And what about filters? Maybe you need a flash?
Hello. Let me know what kind of distortion is potentially related to the attached photo (changed depth of the field near the upper part in the center). Old manual lens Rollei Planar 1.8/50, frame by frame matrix, ISO200, 1/640s. The reason is the lens itself, the adapter, the matrix of the camera? Dyakuyu.
Objective directions under the hood to the frame area, the axis to you and the depth depth. On larger roads it is not so memorable.
Thank you for your advice. Just a difference in the depths of the field to the frame of the beast along the edges along the top to the center (from the top) to finish the story. Thinking that the shards of the object (grass), which are far away from the center (above), would be smaller in “non-focus” (or, however, spread out).
Hello. I don't do photography, just as a hobby. There is nikon d700, 50mm 1.4d, 80-200 2.8d II. I want some kind of universal budget used lens. I looked towards tamron 28-75 2.8, nikon 35-70 2.8d, nikon 24-85 2.8-4d, 24-85 3.5-4.5. Please advise something.
Any of the above, except perhaps 35-70, for versatility 35 is too narrow, the picture is cool, but autumn is often problematic specimens. Or 24-120 f4.
Tell me all the same nikon 24-85 2.8-4d or tamron 28-75 2.8? nikon 24-85 2.8-4d or 24-85 3.5-4.5?
I cannot make the decision for you. This site has reviews of these lenses, read, think about what you need more.
I have an old tamron 28-75 (which is A09N II) on the d600, I like it. There is nowhere more budgetary for light zoom. N. 24-85 3.5-4.5, they say, a good reportage and everyday lens.
What will be the most convenient lens for Nikon 750? Thank you.
Not sure what "comfortable" means? For what tasks is “convenient”.
The most versatile. Landscape, night shooting.
Dmitry Kostin! Thanks for the reply and advice.
Might be a good place to start:
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED VR SWM IF
Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1:4G ED VR SWM IF
There are reviews here on Radozhiv, read it.