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Greetings to all! Help me choose a simple cheap high-quality film camera.
My daughter is slowly taking a great interest in photography. Shoots with Sony A65. Recently, apart from any "girlish" portraits, landscapes began to appear. She began to shoot in manual mode, uses manual optics. In general, there is interest. Recently she asked me to buy a film camera. He wants to try. I don’t want to spend a lot of money on this, because I’m not sure that it will be a constant interest, but I don’t want to fight off the desire that has appeared with shitty equipment. That is, if you like it, we will act there according to the situation. In the meantime, I'm looking for an inexpensive film device. While I am looking at Soviet technology, because with all the limited variety I fit into the budget for most items. I am ready to spend up to 2000 rubles. And for some reason it seems to me that in this case it is necessary to choose not the camera, but the lens on the camera. If not right, then I will take all the advice. In general, there are no preferences yet. There are two criteria in the original. Film, 2000 rubles. (Soviet, not Soviet - it doesn't matter) Avito feds, zeniths, keen-sighted ... There is already a mess in my head. I would be grateful for advice.
I have good experience with FED-5 (S). Zeniths - if only 12sd and newer. For the most part, and then, and then - to play around. In your case, you can also find a film minolta with an A-mount, it seems there is such a thing?
There is only one Minolta in our city - dynax 500si / I don't fit into the budget. Despite the fact that sony a65 is at home, there are no optics for it, the portrait lens is Jupiter 37, fifty dollars is the zenith, for macro - fur. that's our whole arsenal. So there is no need to attach to the bayonet yet. Although, if a good lens goes with a carcass at a bargain price, it's another matter.
Yakiy zhakh (s).
$ 100 camera with lens in normal condition.
The owner of Minolta answers Paka - this is what is in the budget:
kiev jupiter 8m
feds 5 (different) industar 61l / d
world, jupiter 8
vigilant 4, jupiter 8
Zenith 12sd, carcass
zenith 122, carcass
Zenith 122, Helios 44m6
Kiev, Helios 103
zenith 412ls, carcass
Kiev19, Helios 81H
Which one is preferable?
Kiev-19 + G-81N, IMHO.
2000 rubles is about 700 or 800 hryvnia. Minolta, of course, if there are Sony A lenses. There are autofocus and automatic modes.
I personally like the Olympus OM-4, well, all the optics of the Olympus too. it is not very cheap, but very high quality and ergonomic / comfortable / reliable.
Ask her first what type of camera she wants. If she likes lomography, for example, she might like the shift, old Kodak compacts, holga cameras.
If you want something harsh, you can offer film nikons and canons. Very comfortable and ergonomic cameras.
In general, it is better to invest in film. Even the simplest color delay can cost about 600 rubles, but what can we say about fresh or better quality.
Please tell me a telephoto camera for astrophoto on a Nikon DSLR, with a hardstop at infinity, AF is not important. Focal 200/300, maybe Soviet, which is normally put on Nikon, without alterations.
Well, and cheaper by itself :)
Soviet on Nikon: https://radojuva.com/2012/06/obzor-telemar-22-f-5-6-200mm/, https://radojuva.com/2012/07/obzor-telear-n-f3-5-200mm/, https://radojuva.com/2017/08/tair-3-4-5-300mm-a/
Thank you, Telear-N is an interesting option and the price is adequate
You had a job section for photographers, where is it?
Could you compare the Nikon D5100 and Canon 600D.
So?
https://camspex.com/comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D5100&camera2=Canon+EOS+600D+%28Rebel+T3i%29
Yes thank you. One more question. They offer a camera that has hardly been used since the purchase in 2012 and took 50 pictures somewhere. Is it worth taking such a camera or abstaining? Still, the mechanism should work, not stand.
If the mileage is not "twisted", then most likely everything is in order with the camera.
Thank you.
Advise a lens for nikon d5100 I have a whale and a fix 35. But I really want to catch the birds of seals from a distance. I understand it is ideal to probably buy 55-300, but now there is no possibility for such an expensive purchase. In this regard, the question is, is it realistic if you buy a lens without a motor to focus manually, and if so, which one?
Shooting animals with manual focus, you will completely lose a good half of the scenes, and of the remaining, almost all the shots will have focus misses - this is always about catching the moment. If 55-300 is a little expensive, go for 55-200, which will be enough for a rook / squirrel story.
And between 50-500 and 120-400 both Sigmas, what would you advise to choose? 120-400 with stub.
I have never worked with such lenses. But the telephoto stub is highly desirable.
Thanks for the reply.
Help with the choice. Take the 3100 50G lens to your D1.8 or change the camera to the D90 and take the 50 1.8D, which is about 3 times cheaper?
Harry Potter advises switching to Canon.
Yes, there were such thoughts, only 50mm 1.8 II from Canon is not at all very good, judging by the article and reviews, and the first version is hard to find
Of course, take d90.
Greetings, there is a Canon 550D and a Canon 18-135 3.5-5.6 IS camera. Soon I am going to take a shirik lens of class 10-18 4-5.6 for it, and in the future I also think to take sigma 17-55 2.8 with a stub. Although I often shoot semblances of landscapes, I am also interested in shooting banal flowers, leaves and other close-up objects.
Please advise some light lens, it doesn't matter, zoom or prime, so that you can feel something more interesting 18-135 at a used price of no more than 3000 thousand Russian rubles.
For 3 million you can buy a lot of interesting things, for 3 thousand - well, probably nothing but manual fixes.
And the goals are not clear. Have you told about your plan for fouling with specific lenses, and in addition, you want to buy something at a low price on an unplanned basis, just to buy it? The flower leaves are also perfectly removable at 18-135 with good separation from the background at 135mm.
Thanks for the reply.
I read a lot of different sources, not always reliable, which said that fixes seem to have their own "drawing", in contrast to zooms, especially whale ones. I'm interested in getting a feel for any “creative” lens, if there is one in general and specifically in my budget. Will the conditional Jupiter-37 or Helios 44-2 give me something new in terms of the quality and unusualness of the picture?
You're right, maybe I shouldn't have mentioned the sprawl plan. I just wanted to know, is it worth looking for an “INTERESTING” budget fix or will it be easily replaced by sigma?
Thanks for the patient explanation.
Drawing is essentially a manifestation of optical imperfections, and old lenses are more likely to be subject to this, but in reality it can be anything. For example, just Jupiter-37A has a very calm bokeh, which easily turns into a simple blur, and even circles. For which I love him very much. And quite a modern Canon 55-250 IS STM has a swirling bokeh with "lemon" instead of circles in the corners. Which I definitely don't like. As you can see, I have put a lot of personal opinion here, because individually it is - there is no point in relying on the opinions of others. Look for examples of shots from the lenses of interest and decide for yourself whether you like the drawing.
Also, I do not think that any lenses are direct "creative". Yes, the drawing can give some nuance, which may even be in the theme and complement the picture, but these are all trifles. You need to strive to improve your skills, sense of color and composition, and then you will be least concerned about what the photo was taken :)
In terms of quality - well, again, everything is very individual for lenses. Jupiter-37A is quite sharp without indulgences, Helios - well, any modern autofocus fifty dollars will be noticeably better optically, in addition, their quality jumps between copies.
Still, I think it's a good idea to play around with old manual fixes, it just never becomes a panacea. Nearby lie Jupiter and Helios of those. More just lie, yes;)
Jupiter-37A
Canon 55-250IS STM
Thank you so much for your help! I drew conclusions for myself.
For 3000 perhaps some Jupiter 37 to find, but learn to work with manuals. But there is certainly not much sense in the presence of 18-135.
Helios 77 is not bad for trial and experiment. Well, or to the extreme edge of 44-something.
Does it make sense to overpay for 77? The profit is not so great in comparison with 44.
For flowers, it is interesting to use not very light fixes. Large-aperture monsters are not needed there - all the same, there will be problems with the depth of field on the open, and on the closed one the notorious drawing is already lost. I had an interesting experience with Industar-58 75 / 3.5 kopeck, many positive impressions about Industar-26m 50 / 2.8. I liked Vega-M1 35 / 2.8, Mir-1A (his MDF is comfortable). It just didn't work out to shoot flowers on helios, if only on long ones like Cyclops, PO500-1 90/2 ...
Hello, tell me pzh. Which lens will be more interesting for a 24MP 18-105 / 3,5-5,6G or 18-70 / 3,5-4,5G crop? Which one is better all the same, thanks
Site owner or commentators. I have a canon 700d and a canon 50mm 1.8 ii lens. The question is. Why does he often blur? Is the model in focus and the photo is blurry? There are no questions from the tripod. Perhaps this is due to the lack of stabilization? I take pictures and bump into the wall, sitting, etc. there are still frequent lubrication problems. Exposure 125 - + a couple of stops and still there is a defect ... The lens did not fall. Is this a lens or are my hands crooked?
Yes, the shutter speed should be enough, try to take a picture through the viewfinder and select the model's face as the focusing point. Maybe he has a front-back focus. Well, in general, drive it through the focusing screen in live view, the focusing is accurate
Post someone, please, rasamples AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 12-24mm f / 4G IF-ED at 12 and 24 mm, F4, ISO 200
and AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm F3.5G ED VR at infinity at F3.5, ISO 200 and macro 1: 1 at maximum open, ISO 200 with VR, preferably shot on D90 or D300s.
Hello. Tell me, is it worth taking MS HELIOS-44K-4 of 1992, judging by the number 9202145, from the Zenith plant? Does anyone know about the build quality from that period?
Please advise a manual about fifty dollars with a large number of aperture blades, so that the round bokeh is straight at any aperture value.
The 13-petal Helios-44 is difficult to get in an adequate condition these days, what are the alternatives?
I only know Zeiss Tessar 50mm F2.8, 14 petals. And so, in general, near-bandages rarely have more than 9 petals.
I N D U S T A R - 26 M !!!!
Greetings!
I'm still trying to decide on an ultra-inexpensive 35 full-frame Nikon.
There is an opportunity to take a used youngnuo 35mm, but sometimes MIR-24N appears in the tape.
Does it actually make sense to think about it? Primarily interested in the optical quality of the picture (glass under the landscape)
Under the landscape af is unnecessary, and an af like Yongnuo's is unnecessary at all.
So that's the point. I wonder what will be optically better.
Fig with him, with this autofocus ..
Hello! About 5 or 10 years ago, I was holding a camera in which there was a function “focusing on 2 points” - something like that. and before shooting, these points were somehow chosen - first the one from which it should be sharp, then - the one to which it should be sharp. And everything around was supposed to sink in bokeh)))
but now I don’t remember the name of the camera, maybe either Olympus or Canon), nor was it digital or film .. Do you know something about this function? maybe it was a trial and did not meet expectations and there were no more such.
“The one from which it should be sharp, then - the one to which it should be sharp” - this is called DOF.
You are probably talking about the mode that Canon cameras call “A-DEP” - depth-of-field autoexposure.
How true is it that Jupiter 37A 135 mm on NIKON will be like 205 mm?
Not at all.
This will be the same frame width as on a similar DX focal lens.
135 * 1,5, the viewing angle will be like 202,5 at ff.
Victor, Specialist, B.R.P. - thanks for the answers and clarifications, all the best and don't get sick. But I, a naive boy, believed and rolled my lip ...
What is the question, these are the answers.
Hello, no one has ViewNX-i 1.4.4 for mac left? Can't find anywhere
Found
https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/sw/183.html
Good evening, can you please tell me I have a nikon d3200 camera with a whale lens, is the Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G VR II AF-S DX lens suitable for the camera?
Yes
When I put it, the lens is not connected, maybe I'm doing something wrong, I just don't know everything yet
The lens may be defective. Therefore, the camera "does not see" him.
..Hello! .. help me resolve-on the d7200 what kind of glass is it:
1.Nikon AF-S 70-300 VR FF
(-Large weight, stabilizer tire, but + can be disabled stab. and autofocus ...)
2.Nikon AF-P 70-300 VR
(-It is impossible to turn off stab. and autofocus, but + high-speed and crazy autofocus ..)?
Good day to all members of the forum. What are the 3 best quality full frame lenses?
1) zoom 24-70, 2) fix 35mm, (or 40mm), 3) fix 85mm.
I understand that there are no perfect glasses, but what is it with the highest optical characteristics?
Since it is not tied to any system (Nikon, Canon, Sony, ...), first I want to decide on the glasses, and then I will select the camera for these glasses.
but they will not be all three of the same system: I would single out from the best
35: Canon 35 / 1.4L II, Tamron 35 / 1.4, Sony FE 35 / 1,4GM, Sigma 35 / 1.2
85: Canon 85 / 1.4L IS, Sigma 85 / 1.4 ART, Nikon 85 / 1.8Z, Panasonic 85 / 1.8S and LEICA 90/2
24-70: Canon 24-70 / 2.8 L II, Sony 24-70 / 2.8 FE, Nikon 24-70 / 2.8S
Addition: NIKON d7200 + Tamron 17-50, f2.8 are currently in stock. I want to upgrade to Full F. mirrorless. I don’t want to use adapter adapters, so I don’t look at glass from DSLRs.
if a mirrorless system, then there is nothing to choose from
It all depends on what you can spend on a new system ... (And there is plenty to choose from in a mirrorless system (but expensive). Both in terms of quality and ease of use, this is a different level, whatever the adherents of “warm lamp film, manual lenses and ... etc.) Sonya is just a miracle +++, But with a bl..kim interface, Nikon Z is the same miracle ++, it develops, - let's wait, Kyanon is a dark horse for me, I never used it, and I'm not going to. But be prepared to REALLY spend money to have something good.
With a minimum investment - Nikon Z6 II + z 24-120 f / 4 lens. (ideally 24-70 F / 2.8 and 70-200 F / 2.8 C 20mm f / 1.8 wide - you can't imagine better for astro) And forget about any Chinese headache, don't waste money.
Thank you for your prompt reply, ... I thought about it ....
Hello. The question is, I have strictly 50t.r. I need a camera for fashion photography, in the studio and on the street, photos of people, clothes, staged photos. What should I take? I can not decide. I am a complete zero in this topic, there is a lot of information. The man advised Sony a6300 / 6400, but I can't fit in the amount. I lean towards the mirrorless. In general, tell me what to take, what carcass and what lens?
Any camera + portrait lens. Although your amount is difficult to meet)
if used, then there are many options, and if new, then the number of options is sharply reduced, it is necessary to clarify this point
Guys, what kind of NIAR 55-1.4 lens? Can't find anything on it? How is he normal, what mount? And then it is lying at the flea market, if it is normal, you can take it to play, tell me.
Possibly projection.
In general, I tested, the lens is not very
Sorry. How to improve such lenses is well described in Rodion's articles.
Judging by the enlightenment, it is for the IR region. Try it in B&W with a red filter.
The lens in the photo on the left is an achromat 4 lenses like type 100 / 2.5 from a geodetic device.
Good day.
Please tell me a program to convert RAV files to jeep.
Desirable link from where you can download.
Thank you.
Any converter.
But rav-converter without basic concepts - the game is not worth the candle.
One of the most popular - Lightroom.
Fortunately, each camera manufacturer has its own "native" converter that works best. Like Canon DPP, Fuji Silkypix, Nikon NX-D, Sony EDGE, etc.
I forgot to indicate. Me for Kenon.
for canon DPP
There is also a cross-platform free analogue of lightroom, which eats everything https://www.rawtherapee.com/
Is it paid?
RawTherapee is a free.
Hello to all! I am going to buy a 35kp 110 1.8 lens, which / forgive me I do not have the necessary letters on the keyboard / as I read it is a more modern version of OKP4 110 1.8 and the differences in the clearance of everything. The question is, why does the image have a yellow-green tint in the pictures? Is it because of enlightenment, and if so, then at 35kp, will all yellowing be exactly noticeable, since enlightenment is apparently a more modern color / in my opinion /.