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Additional information on my question about Nikon EN-EL15c batteries. Perhaps someone will be interested someday ...)) Despite the fact that the PowerPlat website says “all products are certified”, Nikon does NOT guarantee the normal and safe operation of their cameras with third-party batteries, including PowerPlat ( (from Nikon's official tech support response). At the same time, ABCphoto, one of Nikon's professional dealers in Ukraine, calmly sells only “certified” PowerPlat replicas. As for the cost of the original EN-EL15c in Ukraine (UAH 2699 at Moyo and UAH 2852 at Fotomost, I haven't found it anywhere else), it is wiser, IMHO, to wish local hucksters good luck and make a purchase, for example, in the USA ($ 73 or less UAH 2000); even taking into account delivery it will be cheaper and more reliable.
Guys, what is this item for
The image is bad, here
these are spare parts for 70-300
Not entirely clear in case of repair / replacement?
I would like to buy a 135 mm samyang for the d5100, but I don’t know what letters should be on the lens and more, I subtracted that this lens on the Nikon will already be 200 mm. Is this true? Thanks for the clarification and all the best.
If you only have a crop, then forget about this FR recalculation. Will be 135mm
The lens must have a Nikon F mount. The focal length will remain 135mm, and the angle of view will be the same as 200 (202,5) at ff.
Dobry. Can you tell me what kind of filters it is and from what I can't find these on the internet.
Everything is searched on the Internet.
H2x and H4x - ND filters to increase exposure at minimum sensitivity (usually). It can be used if the thread for the lens fits.
k4500 and k8000 - special color filters for color wrapping film. For a figure, they have no practical meaning.
Thanks for the answer, but I wanted to find from what and whose filters to understand what was missing and what they went with, what kind of kit it was to find a similar one in the internet. Otherwise, it has no markings at all, and the groove is most likely 62mm
Thread 62mm. Filters from the kit of this Soviet monster :)
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Кинор_16СХ-2М
But I do not know how it will help you in their application)))
filters
filters
Good day! For some time now, Err began to pop up on the Nikon D610 when trying to take a picture with a closed aperture. Everything works without problems up to aperture 5. After five - an error pops up and a frame is taken at a fully open aperture. Further, you can open it to any value, the error does not go away until you turn off and change the lens. Problem with all autofocus lenses. Also, I constantly use Soviet manuals with an adapter, suddenly, this is important and you will notice a connection. On the manual, of course, such errors do not occur. I would be glad for any help, suddenly collided!
Camera service.
Good day! The problem arose for the first time with the 85mm 1.4 lens on the Nikon D800, I had no problems with any lens on it. 1.8 worked fine. I bought recently and tried all the focusing modes, and the tracking one, changed the priority of the release-focusing (I thought that the priority of focusing spoils everything, freezes the result when the camera is still moving) - the focus is blurry.
At the same time, the lens works great in live view, you get a sharp image (no contradiction?). With my hands I can also focus and get a sharp picture when open. The trouble is that the lens is wonderful, sharp on the open, everything is as expected from it. Live view is not an option, since the D800 takes a long time to digest, or shoot only in a jpeg.
Is it really necessary to give it to adjustment? And in general, will it help, and will the rest of the lenses be smeared after that?
Thank you in advance!
what exactly is 85 1.4? there are two different ones, actually.
G version. It seems that they said in the photo van that they can fix it. But then one familiar photographer swore at the photo van, they say - just transfer money, the problem may remain.
By the way, I wrote there below that the amendment helped. But in fact, no. In the morning I once again compared the results with LV and with an amendment of -20, it seems that another 3 millimeters would be like with LV. Such a deceptive feeling that everything is ok)
Well, the motor lens can be adjusted without any problems. if the service is authorized, then they have both equipment and software.
Continuing the story from above) - upd
Began to get into focus with the "-20" correction and with continuous AF tracking.
This is fine? Are there any other non-consumer settings that will help stabilize focus?
If the correction -20 was enough to align the focus, then there is no need to submit for adjustment. There are no other settings on the carcass.
Thank you!
In general, one should make allowances for what I tested in conditions close to "combat" - poor lighting, 1250 iso, 1.4 and the corresponding exposure. Maybe when it gets lighter, the autofocus will be more effective ...
Hello, for nikon d5100 how will the Sigma 50-500 f4-6,3 EX be? Does it fit?
If it has an HSM inscription, then it is suitable
Thank you for your answer, Arkady, the seller claims that it is for nikon.
Which is good for Nikon, and HSM means the presence of a focusing motor in the lens, i.e. the ability to have auto-focusing on non-motorized photos, such as the D5100. For focusing manually on telephoto lenses is long and inconvenient. But judging by the list in Arcadia's review for sigma 50-500 f4-6,3 EX, all such sigma have a motor. And if the name also contains the letters OS (stabilizer), generally a class.
That is, will it be necessary to focus manually on the d5100?
If the lens is without a motor, then yes.
Thanks for the clarification and all the best.
Thanks for your reply and all the best.
Hello, I'm choosing my first shirik, for a Nikon F crop. I looked through a bunch of options.
I chose two.
Nikon 10-20mm f / 4.5-5.6G VR AF-P DX
Tokina 11-16 mm f / 2.8 Nikon F
What say
Which is better?
Can you tell me something else?
The priority is shooting landscapes, night shooting.
Tokina, IMHO.
Tokina is lighter and cheaper.
Although no, a little more expensive. At one time I filmed with this one, I liked it.
Is there a big difference between 400 mm and 500 mm? There is no need to write about 100 mm. Thanks.
The difference is exactly 10cm. 0.1m if you like.
In general, to help
https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/learn_explore/nikkor_lens_simulator.page
Thank you, namesake, and the simulator is a thing !!! All the best and don't get sick.
I read reviews about sigma 120-400 and some praise in moderation, some do not respond very well. There are owners of this lens here who could point out all the points. Thanks.
Nikon F5 shot 24 frames 400 iso only 12 frames on regular Kodak film. Then he said End (The battery is in order, all functions are in good working order, the tape has been rewound. Why could this be, if there were no visible reasons "foreshadowed"? Thanks in advance.
I didn't seem to do anything reprehensible either, once during the shooting I changed the lens, from Volna to autofocus 85 mm.
Thank you in advance.
Are there exactly 24 frames?
In the sense)))) I took it as 24 frames, I cannot not believe the Kodak company, after all, their authority is against my disbelief))).
For me, as an option, only the fact that somewhere I put up a cartoon of 2 frames by accident, however, in the instructions I did not find anywhere that it would work out, maximum dance on one frame until you turn it off.
Another option, I touched the rewind button, but I thought that he would complete everything without problems, but I did not start rewinding.
Of course, the toad strangles me to spend the second film on tests to check the systematicity of the bug, but, apparently, I will have to.
There are also coils for 12 frames. You saw by the counter that you had 12 frames left? Even if you set the multiple exposure or sport mode and the camera would take several frames, the counter will still show exactly as many frames as captured. You couldn't touch the rewind button. To do this, you must simultaneously press two buttons, which are specially located in different places to prevent accidental pressing. You can check the operation of the camera on the already developed film. It is not necessary to insert unexposed film every time to check the feed mechanism.
But what about the fact that 24 frames are written on the box? The Kodak firm could not deceive me, could it?) Well, in general, I feel like a complete Siberian, not even a felt boot, but a bast shoe.
It is clear, that is, the developed film, which is not a pity to insert the unsuccessful one and check again, clicking through the entire length? I'll try.
Thank you.
And you can't develop 24 frames and see what happened there? If half of the film remains, then something is wrong with the camera, and if everything is exposed, then yes, boots and bast shoes rolled into one.
Good afternoon!
I am an amateur photographer. Please, be-weasel a DSLR camera from Nikon to a second frame with the possibility of setting manual operations to replace the Nikon D40 =) View photography - landscape, nature, urban landscape, vivid portrait and reportage zyomka. Budget up to 50K hryvnia. Too late.
Be-like a ff camera is so great.
Any full frame is fine for this. I would take D610 + lenses better for the rest of the money
Good evening.
Can you please tell me what would be more preferable for shooting landscapes, panoramas and night photography. For example, focal 11-20 f 2.8, or let's say 17-35 f 2.8, or another 28-70 f2.8?
I now have 18-105 f3.5-5.6. I want to take a good width or something close to it. Nikon d5600 camera.
11-20 is just right.
What if you choose between Tokina 11-20 f2.8 and Nikkor 12-24 f4?
And even more interesting is Nikon 10-24.
Yeah. But now I want to figure out whether the difference between 2.8 and 3.5 will be too great, for example, for night photography.
Not too much. Here fixes are needed (well, of course, a tripod). And it's better to take tokinu
Tripod of course.
I would like more or less station wagon.
What would come up for panoramas.
A fix for these requirements is unlikely to fit.
Well then 11-20 or 10-24
And what exactly is the fix not suitable for panoramas?
Fix, not a generalist at all.
I start from the focal point that I need, from 10, and these are distortions that will be difficult to correct, and little will remain from the panorama.
And more focus on fix, you lose details, I have a crop.
Yes, and I mainly want to find for the mountains.
Shooting conditions vary.
Sometimes you need to zoom in. You can't reach the desired point with your feet.
Yes, and weight is important.
Tokine has an 82mm filter!
Bring everything to the hump, and the price for them!
.
Good day! I got into the hands of such a lens. Search on the Internet gave nothing. Suddenly someone came across infa about such. Or is it just a one-off rework from Tair? With an adapter, the M42-EOS gives very decent footage on the Canon 70D.
No, the fact of the matter is that not this one. The lens block looks like the same, but the case is completely different.
You have a converted butt on the M42.
Quite possibly thanks.
2
3
Good evening. Such a question. I bought a DSLR, and I switch to 82 mm filters, along the way I still have a mirrorless camera with 58 mm filters. I want to buy an adapter 58-82, and sell those 58 filters, do you think this option will work on a mirrorless camera? Are there any distortions and flares due to such a transition?
Hello everybody! Need advice on the Tair-3 4.5 / 300A lens. Especially I found an ad with the letter "A", because according to the description I decided that the shank can be unscrewed and there will be an M42 thread)
I planned to use it on the D5100 through the M42-Nikon adapter, in the future I would get hold of a teleconverter on the M42.
Actually, I ask for expert opinions: what do I need to do / purchase to fit this lens on the M42 thread?
Read this article here https://radojuva.com/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/#a-mount
After reading, you will understand that Nikon and M42 are not the best option. For shank A on Nikon, an adapter KP-A / N is needed. But in the photo I do not recognize shank A. It looks more like a self-made shank.
On J37 there is no sharpness at infinity and, perhaps, the same canfuz will be here as well.
Yuri, good afternoon! I have Jupiter 37A on M42, I use it through an adapter, it is generally suitable for my self-indulgence, there is no serious purpose here, just click the moon on a large focal point.
If you unscrew the screws and unscrew the case, then we have a view as in the photo. DO YOU consider a beast completely unknown to science? It's just that there is clearly a complete plastic overlay at this end, well, in general, the unity of the design, in my unprofessional opinion, is of sufficient quality, not as if they did it on the knee, everything is monolithic and corresponds to the rest of the details
it's homemade. and rather roughly chiseled.
Hello, Alexander. Read the article, delve into what is written. Doing this: “Jupiter 37A on M42, I use it through an adapter” is wrong. If done correctly, the result will be completely different, especially if you are using an adapter with a lens now.
.. to Lushnikov's website, everything is there ..
Such a question, what will give a better picture: D3100 + 50mm 1.8G or D7000 + 50mm 1.8D?
First option
From the technical point of view, 1.8G is better than 1.8D. But this is all very subjective. The camera is secondary here.
Good afternoon. Who has not heard, or came across such information that the m42 Nikon F adapter with a chip burns something in the camera?
I talked with the seller, he refused to sell them, many complaints. And he says that they are all like that, the sellers are just silent about it.
I used an adapter with a Lushnikov chip, nothing burned out, everything works.
In general, if there was such a problem with most adapters, the entire Internet would be full of complaints about “burnt out” cameras, which has not yet been observed.
Strange seller, now think about why you said it.
Prompt a shirik for landscapes, so that it is sharper than a whale and not expensive. On Nikon
https://radojuva.com/2013/07/bower-14-mm-2-8-ed-as-if-umc-eos/
What camera? Crop? Full frame?
Have you tried another whale? And among them there are quite sharp specimens.
D3100, 18-55 lathers on any diaphragm, the foliage in the distance always turns into dirt, I haven't tried others, and judging by the articles it's the same, only the range is added to the body
I had an 18-55 with a button, it was quite sharp. Maybe your specific copy is just faulty?
https://radojuva.com/2012/12/nikon-18-55-3-5-5-6-g-af-s-vr/
Here are examples of photos with the same problems in the article, trees in mush
Which photo? Where it is clearly a mess - trees simply do not enter the DOF.
Sold on a secondary 5D without a focusing screen, tell me how this will affect shooting and is it difficult to install it yourself?
it is impossible to shoot without it, to establish it yourself is a matter of 10 minutes, if without experience.
OK thanks. And what could be the reason for his absence? Fall for example?
Most likely, someone, being carried away by manual shooting, changed their native FE for one that is more convenient to focus manually in the manual, the old screen “fell in love” somewhere, and it’s a pity to give the new, manual one :))
If such a 5d without PV is given very cheaply, it may make sense to consider such a purchase, otherwise there is no reason to create difficulties for yourself))
It is not sold much and is cheaper, but if we add the cost of PV, then almost the same thing, the good condition wins over. But I really don't want to fool my head
It is quite possible to shoot without a focusing screen, you simply cannot use the viewfinder, and the metering sensor will not work normally.
Considering that there is no live on 5D, it turns out only from the hip))
... and a Zenitar clamped down to 8.0, focused on hyperfocal :)