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Will the Nikon D15 Battery Grip MB-D7100 fit the D7200?
Well, it’s strange to ask such simple questions here. Is it so difficult to look at the official website? Of course it will do!
https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/accessories/slr/slr-power/battery-packs/multi-power-battery-pack-mb-d15#related-products
It is always easier to ask than to find it yourself.
It was necessary to write "no, it will not work" and by this force the person himself to strain his brains. They say it is sometimes useful.
Hello Arkady. Thank you very much for you site. I learned a lot of interesting things.
Recently I decided to switch from film to digital, tried Fuji X-E2, Sony A-5000, settled on Pentax K-30 (I have a lot of old lenses) and am happy as an elephant.
“Often you have to review a technique that you wouldn’t wish on the enemy either, which is not bad in general. These are the most terrible moments. So recently I shot several times with the Pentax K-70, and a lot of other things, but I did not prepare any reviews ”
Can you explain why you don't like Pentax, and specifically K-70, please? Thank you!
Perhaps Arkady was referring to the Pentax system as a whole. Here he discusses this topic:
https://youtu.be/Heuq2CsU5qw?t=1885
Hello Arkady, please advise the workshop, the zoom jammed on my Canon 80-200 f / 2.8L, I can't find a place for myself.
few people will undertake to repair this glass now.
I repair mine (and my friends) myself, if there are problems.
try to make out and understand what happened. if the wear of the collars, from long-term operation, then little can be done, there are officially no spare parts for it for a long time.
in general, you can try to write to him nesovet.livejournal.com
I saw that everything was like new there. Guide bolts with bushings in place (6 pcs), visually no wear is visible. Before it jammed it worked perfectly, everything was spinning easily and soundlessly, at one moment it stopped spinning and that's it. I disassembled it to this state, I can’t continue as the loops are unsoldered, and I am not strong in soldering. It seems that the thread itself wedges
and what is this strange at the bottom, where is the groove? there are traces of a slipped drill on the barrel.
I already did this, tried to turn it and ripped off the paint, the guide itself under the bar below that on the two bolts (manual focus stopper)
Good day! How can you restore the worn gold letters on Nikon lenses? Thanks.
Replaced with Canon silver letters.
thin)))
There was a thought, but still ... Maybe there is some kind of marker or something else.
Some premium Nikon lenses have 24-karat gold-plated gold lettering and markings, and in some cases they even use all-metal gold plates, such as this one:
So you can experiment with markers and paints yourself.
Thanks for the information Ivan. I will of course experiment. But really no one has been interested in this issue yet.
I doubt that anyone thought about restoring the exterior of the photographic equipment. Most are worried about technical serviceability.
Why refresh it?)) Just try to shoot through this lens, it can sometimes be quite fun))
Victor, you helped me a lot, I don't know what I would do without this advice.
You're welcome, Dmitry. I do everything that depends on me, to the maximum, sparing no effort. It's nice that I was able to assist you.
Although, if the goal is to freshen up the look for sale, then it's understandable.
Have me, freshen up the look after purchase)
Dmitry, if not a secret, which lens?
Nikon 18-140
For this lens, you don't even have to worry about the appearance.
I am thinking about purchasing a D7100 camera. Here's the question - is it worth taking a whale from 18-140 or taking a separate carcass and, for example, Tamron 18-200?
Tamron 18-200 is not worth it for sure, but with 18-140 you can still think about it.
Or stock 18-105? Shoot for home use only.
That 18-105, that 18-140 - one field of berries. Sooner or later, you still want to add / replace it with something, especially by 7100. But - then :)
I want to take a good camera. Everyone around advises, since I decided to give more than 50k for a fotik, then take the D610. Full frame. But there the lenses stand like the carcass itself.
And how should it be?
What lenses? Nikon 50 / 1,8D, 35/2 Yaga or even Nikon, Tamron 28-75 / 2,8 cost 1 / 5-1 / 10 of the price of a carcass. Quite decent lenses.
Well, how to say, "like the carcass itself" - it is unlikely, of course, there are such, but why?
There is a budgetary and good 24-85 vr, it costs 14 ... 16 thousand, and the picture on d610 will give better than 18-140 on the crop)))
Those.
Nikon D610 Kit AF-S 24-85 mm VR - costs 65k.
Nikon D7100 Kit 18-200 VR II - 59k.
In this case, is it worth taking the D610? Fotik does not need to earn money. And for family photos on vacation.
Today I wanted to take a picture of raindrops on a tree. A lantern in the background a meter from the tree. Night. None of the available equipment was able to transfer a normal photo - Nikon D3500 18-55, Canon G10, cameras on cell phones. Neither automatic nor manual.
I still lean towards the D7100 + 18-140 VR. For an amateur above the roof. I know how to work with a photo-ass, with RAW there is a huge field for creativity. Maybe someday I'll grow to a full-frame camera. But now I don't see the point.
For a drop of rain on a tree, you need a Leica with Summicron, no less.
18-140 is a good glass, which, in my opinion, should definitely be. But I shoot something more for fifty dollars 1.8
On the smartphone, turn on the macro focus mode, activate the flashlight (if you still have a smartphone at hand, activate the flashlight on it so that you can play with the direction of the light) to highlight the drop. If during the day, use something from the available means as a reflector to illuminate the drop - a mirror, the shiny surface of a smartphone or other something. That is, in fact, in order to take a large picture of a drop, you first need a lens that will allow you to get as close to it as possible, and then the question of the camera and overall quality. You may not get the drop of a photo you want on any coolest camera if you don't have a macro lens.
Probably Alexey had in mind all the same color rendition, which at night, in the autobalance of white, turns into red. And here you cannot do without editing in editors.
You can play around with the camera settings and the extra lighting, but RAW post processing is easier.
Small comments regarding the debate in the topic “Fujifilm S5 PRO AGAINST EVERYONE!”
I'm a neophyte in photography, but very (I'm not afraid! :)) in an audiophile (Hi-End).
The analogy here is simple and both art, the purpose of which is to convey emotions.
But between the object and the perception is the brain of a particular individual, which complements, interprets and does a lot more.
As an extreme case, individual subjects do not need sound at all, enough notes!
Therefore, it may well be that a person uploads a photo to the Internet in accordance with his perception, memory, etc., not paying attention to technical inconsistencies.
Emotionally, the effect of the gramophone in those days was no less than that of super-lane audio today ...
What kind of herb do you smoke?
Let it be to you!
If about perception. then there are many studies and books on this topic. An important role in this matter is played by memory, on the basis of which the brain interprets, etc. etc…
And besides, art is also a little from God, if it is not given to a person, no matter how hard you try ...
Your idea is clear, there are no questions to it. But here is its presentation ... Have you read your text yourself?
Interpreted phrase - "I'm new to photography, but very much in audiophilia" (what?).
Who are the "non-inclinations"?
"Super-lane audio" (no comment).
Negative Ukrainian disadvantages, problems.
I rummaged through a bunch of materials on choosing a camera for amateur nature photography, family photos. Of all the variety, I chose two models for myself based on reviews / money. And came to a dead end :(
1. Nikon D7200 18-140
2. Nikon D750 18-105
Doubts are gnawing - is FF really needed for an amateur photo? Moreover, before it was not in the hands of FF. I noticed it only after reading the article here about 750.
Does it bother you that the d750 has a cropped, unpretentious lens, which in any case will have to be changed?))
As I understand it is important to buy a carcass. With any lens for the first time. Then understand which ones are needed and gradually buy in addition. Or consider 24-85 at once?
Of course, it's better with 24-85vr, then leave it for the role of a light staff, even if after some 24-70 appears.
Probably not Nikon D750 18-105, but D7500. 750, like 600/610, are amateur fullframes, 24-85vr is good for them. I am also gnawing at doubts - do I need 7200/7500 for an amateur photo? Advanced autofocus, hardly demanded shooting functionality, hyperpixelization. If you are not satisfied with 3500 - noise, flat picture, something else - maybe FF?
It seems to me that for an amateur photo it is quite enough to take a cheaper fifth series carcass, and the remaining money can be invested in purchasing a good lens ... / My purely personal opinion /
The fifth series does not have a screwdriver, which will force you to look for noticeably more expensive motor counterparts for some good lenses.
Well, if there is a full frame in the selection, it would be strange to bet on 5xxx at all))
Well, these analogs are better, there is not only a motor. This is a moot point - is it worth using screwdriver lenses at all? Hence there will be a conclusion about the need for a screwdriver) ff, however, this issue is automatically resolved
They are better, but not twice or three times. It seems that the differences between, for example, 85 1.4D and G in the picture will have to be looked for with a magnifying glass. And at a cost - and without a magnifying glass, everything is very clearly visible :)
I am already silent about the difference in price between 80-200 first-second version and 70-200vr (80-200 af-s not to offer)
Well, 80-200 is not for everybody. I won't say about 85, I haven't tried it, but fifty rubles are very different - I would never take 1.4d ... But all for an amateur - that's what the conversation is about. As a result, now I only have a screwdriver fisheye
80-200 not for an amateur, but for certain tasks.
There was no talk of fifty dollars, there are enough of them for every taste, with screwdrivers, and with motors, and the difference in prices is negligible. Not lenses to go after.
And I don't need autofocus at all (IMHO).
80-200 is a little more beautiful than completely. I have two of them - for kenon and for nikon. the main thing is that these glasses are indestructible and maintainable almost indefinitely)). unlike any 70-200 for any system.
For certain tasks (reportage) it is 70-200, and 80-200 is exactly what “for an amateur”.
What are you saying :-) What were the journalists filming BEFORE the 70-200 appeared?
And actually after. All at once dropped their 80-200 and switched to the new version?))
Good day, you can throw stones, kick, but there is no time to search the Internet for information about the adapter from M42 to Olympus 2n.
Is it a film or something? It is unlikely that you will find it.
What is the problem? Someone forces you to search?
Want more truth about your lens?
Weed photo and photoshop.
https://www.dpreview.com/opinion/4042117089/roger-cicala-why-i-dont-use-an-mtf-bench-to-test-my-own-lenses
This is my repaired Helios-44M, only processed in an analog-Linux Gimp.
Good day to all. Arkady, your site is just a treasure for photographers)
I am writing here, since a search on the site did not give an answer to my situation, help with advice please.
There is Arsat H 50mm 1: 2, most likely no one has used it before me - it has an indecent lot of grease on the petals. No, it does not drip onto the lenses, but here's the thing - if you shoot with a closed aperture (from 4 inclusive to 16) and any short shutter speed that is shorter than a second, the petals do not have enough time from the fully open state, close to the desired opening ... And when you turn the ring, the hole by 5.6 is exactly the same as at 8, 11 and 16 !!!
As a result, the lens, roughly speaking, is capable of working at a maximum aperture of 2-2.8 - this is visually visible when the shutter is released.
First, I changed the spring of the jump rope to a stronger one, nothing improved.
Then I disassembled it (I did not remove the petals themselves, only I removed the lens blocks to get to the diaphragm), I already erased everything I could with a cotton swab, but where the petals overlapped each other I could not wipe it. It helped for the first 100 frames. After a while, the lubricant remaining there again completely covered the petals.
I really do not want to disassemble everything again and wipe it again, and perhaps again in vain. I am afraid and do not want to remove the petals themselves separately and wash them in solutions, etc.
What would you do in this situation?
That is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2-wZVRrCUM
You can wash off the grease from the petals (it shouldn't be there, in general) with solvent 646, gasoline "Galosha" (if you find one, or for Zippo lighters).
You can try WD-40.
Should I put macro rings on Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 60mm 1: 2.8D? will it give any advantages at all? fr and so small 60mm, 1: 1 increase only on mdf (30cm)
After turning on the Z50, the writing is not connected, but it is connected without a processor. Menu pratsyuє ...
I can’t make a single frame. New photo.
Yes, Nikon has such a joke that the first frame must be taken with a microprocessor lens :)
And why can't you explain, what's the difference from the cym of robiti?)
To “activate” the camera (some nikons) you need to take a shot with the lens (native). Come to the store, ask for a lens for 1 frame. Take a shot, leave. I don't know any other solutions.
So now there is a rіdniy ob'ktiv. 16-50 3,5 - 6,3
In me the first dosvid (well, yak dosvid, proba) with mirrorless)
How to view mileage on Nikon D3100?
Either in EXIF of the snapshot, or by uploading the snapshot here:
shuttercounter.com
EXIF is not displayed. Through the ShowExif program, you can.
In EXIF, that is just displayed, but a normal metadata viewer is needed, of course.
Yes, this program pulls out full information
https://exiftool.org
Boyarin, if you don't break, but point your finger)), where should I throw the material on adjusting the focus in EMF chips (for Canon), otherwise I can't find something where you have a similar topic described. I did a little laboratory work to clarify the magnitude of the correction, I decided to gradually spread this data to all available sites :)
Є Nikon D800 (with fixed firmware). I know that іnody virobniki "zarizayut"
the possibilities of third-party optics on their products.
I poke around and buy about "assets for an amateur s" yomka (not a profit for a robot), since the speed of autofocus is less important for me.
“Hitting the target” is also, albeit a difference in price between them, roughly 2 times,
I’m saying that I’m talking about it, because Vikoristanna’s bully just "sumer"
and no information about ”assets is dumb.
1) AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f / 2,8 ED VR Tamron 24-70 f / 2.8 Di VC USD
2) AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f / 2.8 VR 2 Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 vc g1
Infection z about "Aktiviv є Nikoni:
fixi AF 35/2, AF 50 / 1.8, AF-S 50mm f / 1.4G
ta AF-S 28-300 3.5-5.6G ED VR
І one more meal - no more vistachaє the average
type AF-S 18-135 / 1.8… 2.8 VR. Scho please in the range up to 1 K $ + -
about ”єktivi melodiously used.
Avzhezh for $ 1000 used Scho to analogue 18-135, on FF є https://radojuva.com/2012/10/nikon-af-28-200-mm-3-5-5-6d-if/, https://radojuva.com/2013/09/test-nikon-ed-af-28-200-mm-g-if/
Good afternoon. I very often use the materials on this site. Thank you so much for the quality reviews.
Review the Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 16-80mm f / 2,8-4e ED. And I wonder how this glass will be on full-frame cameras.
Please tell me .. I understand correctly that the Nikkor line has no division into crop and full frame, while Sigma has DC and DG, respectively. I was about to switch to full frame and decided that at first it would be wise to change the park of glasses.
How is there no separation? And FX and DX?
For Nikon it is difficult - if for a crop, there is definitely a DX mark. If there is a full frame, there is no marking.
Only full frame cameras are labeled FX. But there is no FX mark on the lenses.
MINOLTA MD ROKKOR-X 50 / 1.4 How can I install on Sona A290? Thank you! Yaroslav
Vinnytsia.
Difficult, expensive. Adapter with lens MD-Sony A.
In order to change the login password (if the need arises suddenly), go to the "Settings" >> "Password and access" section. In order not to be charged in case of your departure or the absence of the need for communication from Beeline for some time, you can temporarily block the number in the following ways: Type of connection to the mobile network, the maximum possible connection speed; On the territory of which zone the proposed connection conditions apply; The cost of 1 megabyte or the specifics of charging when using the mobile Internet.
4. Let's say I am on the border of 3G and 4G. What will be the priority? Through Megafon employees. The operator also provides unlimited Internet, allows you to rent a TV set-top box without a monthly fee. You can add 2 numbers in addition to the main one.
Spam filter, where are you ?!
Good day! Question about Nikon EN-EL15c batteries. Is there any experience of using the Ukrainian-Chinese analogue from PowerPlant? How good / bad are they? Or is it better to buy the original one for an immodest UAH 2700-2800?)) Thank you!
I personally think that batteries can be any, most likely unoriginal, be they even Chinese, even Korean, even though Ukrainian ones will be a little worse than the original ones and that's it.
However, there is a large category of people who believe that since there was enough money for a camera, then if you please buy origi and that's it, otherwise suddenly there is something that explodes in the camera. So choose your side yourself, like Neo))
+ And if they are no longer produced?) Here you really do not like it, you will take what they give.
I have unoriginal for over a year. Not complaining. China
Good day colleagues), there was a problem, the hot shoe stopped working for nikon d7100, does not ignite the flash, does not turn on the synchronizer, the built-in flash is working properly. Found a malfunction a couple of days after filming in a third-party photo studio with their Godox synchronizer. We worked in the studio for two hours, the second hour worked in an aqua studio, but there was no direct contact with water, high humidity in the air and nothing more. Visually no defects, sits firmly in place, does not dangle, mileage is about 40 thousand. Can someone tell me what the reason is, or have come across this. I would be grateful for any answer
Check with a multimeter whether the sync contact closes (most likely not). If not, disassemble, alas ...
Thank you for the response, sadness, of course, but in the settings something could not fly off?