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Please tell me who understands, I use SB600 in TTL mode on nikon D3300 + 50mm-1,8-the first frame is excellent, the subsequent ones are soap, there is no flash in the properties, the shutter speed shows 1 / 2s instead of 1 / 60s, I shoot in A mode, indoors, with D40 and D60 cameras, there is no such problem.
Hello
I have lens Helios-44-2-B number N6900002.
What does the letter B mean in the name of the lens?
Best regards
Andrzej
No one seems to know that.
Hello, tell me please, I want to try a budget TV set, I want to shoot sports: football, streetball and so on, what do you recommend? I am looking at 55-250 is stm or 75-300 is, both canon. Maybe there is something better or which one is better to take?
70-200 / 4 L IS
There are a lot of inexpensive offers, there are also no stubs.
70-200 without a stub has a different optical scheme, with a worse picture, moreover (despite the L-series) it does not have moisture protection.
"70-200 without a stub has a different optical scheme, with a worse picture"
It’s strange. This is just a surprise, as I've met many statements that lenses (70-200 / 4) differ in stub, but optically +/- are the same.
Optically, with and without a stub, they cannot be the same (since there is a stub). And by themselves + - are the same
Not here is the question in the phrase "has a different optical scheme, with a worse picture."
This confused me. I understand that there are differences in the lens itself, but so that the picture becomes worse :(
I just want to take myself without a stub, maybe with a stub is much more expensive, I rarely shoot at focal lengths> 150mm, and then there is distrust of used lenses with a stub.
Before ripening, I looked at the differences and did not notice the difference in the photos from the versions without a stub and with a stub.
I will try to study this issue in more detail.
"Optically with a stub and without the same cannot be (because there is a stub)"
Thanks, Cap. But it’s like talking for a different picture in terms of drawing and sharpness, and from those who had both of these glasses. These are optically different lenses, and it's not just about the presence of a stub
.
55-250 will be faster. Better to eat (70-200 f4, 2,8, etc.), but not on a budget.
I want to replace my favorite canon 50D
I have been shooting with it for 10 years. A large park of native glasses, Soviet lenses. Even MTO-1000, which I use for astro photography.
I shoot mostly reports, sports. Nature. And some items for drains.
I want portraits for my soul.
In thinking about what to choose in order to directly feel the qualitative difference. The most disturbing thing about my camera is the noise.
Budget up to 1000 $
RP + adapter. Or 90D, 80D, etc.
Thank you, I haven’t thought about RP. I'll go and read it. Thanks again!
Yes please)
Canon 6D
Someone hung on a Sony NEX (I have a NEX F3) a large flash through a Chinese shoe adapter. How is it in general? Does the fastener pull out of the carcass?
Why exactly on camera? I am on a big camera, even with a baht. I forgot the block already when I hung up the flash. Even with an outstretched arm set aside, the result is better.
It will also be used with a 45cm ring softbox, which is also worn on the camera.
Hello everyone ! Cool site, just found out about it today! Dear friends, I need your advice. I am an artist and I want to photograph my paintings myself. Tell me which one is better for me to choose a used camera up to $ 500 for 100% real color reproduction of my works? And another question - only the mirror itself can do this in bright light, or is it still necessary to buy professional lighting equipment? Thank you all in advance for your advice and understanding !!!
The device will cope with bright enough lighting, but it will not cope without a lens. So budget for the lens too. Prof. it is not necessary to buy light. Regarding the real color rendition - this is such a “delicate” topic, so many copies have already been broken. By and large, much depends on the post processing of the received photos. A camera, not only a DSLR, but also a mirrorless camera (+ lens) can be considered, in principle, of any brand, as long as it fits into your budget and is in working order, a low mileage is desirable, especially if you plan to shoot a lot.
Well, how many pictures do you need to write so that the shutter resource is not enough?
You never know)) There are very prolific authors)
That's right. Like Aivazovsky.
In the context of obtaining real color reproduction, the main attention should probably be paid to setting the white balance? MB gray card?
Thank you !
Arkady, the site has rubbed my answer with a lot of links, and I don't even see it in the list for moderation :(
At one time, while still on film, he was engaged in a similar shooting. There was an order from a local museum. I highly recommend that you purchase a tripod for this purpose. With pulsed light, you are tortured with glare, direct sunlight does not roll either. The ideal option is diffused natural light, with a minimum aperture of 5.6-8 and a shutter speed for illumination. The picture on the wall or easel is strictly vertical, and the camera is on a tripod opposite the center of the picture. The fifty kopeck glass will be fine. Less - may stretch edges.
Hello everyone! I really need help with choosing a digital camera and lens (I understand that the request is too wide, but I will try to explain my goals). I am not a beginner, I have been shooting on film for 8 years and I want to switch to digital, I am looking at a combination of some canon mark and a sigma art lens (this is something that I was at least minimally told what to look at). It is important now - to quickly and clearly, buy and immediately start filming.
I shoot mostly people, portraits, also full-length. The problem is a limited budget in the region of 30-35k hryvnia, I'm considering an FF like canon mark (I don't even know which model to pay attention to). I think you can take some good FF body and a slightly simpler (cheaper) lens, and then buy something more serious? If so, which lens should you look out for? I think that after film cameras everything will be new to me, I plan to take paid shooting, so I want to get involved in work as quickly as possible (as I understand it, it should be a combination of autofocus + motor)?
It’s so messy so far, because I don’t understand anything myself, and in general it’s still a terrible dark forest for me. Grateful for any help and tips!
Portraits (studio or daylight + flash through an umbrella) will perfectly cut off not only FF, but also micra with 1.5 crop.
If you are aiming at a Canon FF mirror, with your budget look towards the BU Markov: Mark II - III + EF fifty fifty 50 (height / waist) and 1.8 with the same f-number, IMHO. USM / STM lens options, i.e. slightly more recent versions are better. But, I think, the canonists will orientate more precisely.
Hello. Advise on the set of photographic equipment. Every month I photograph dairy products almost (on my knee). The budget is limited. Suggest the composition of photographic equipment: a camera with a good lens, and equipment for subject photography. Thank you.
For starters, the size of the budget.
The budget is 150000 rubles.
If you continue to take pictures on your knee, then your pictures will not differ from the current ones, unfortunately, regardless of the camera and lens
I have a question which is better to take a Tamron 18-200 model B018 or Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED I shoot regional events, purchase for the D610 camera
For a Nikon camera, in general, native Nikon optics are preferable.
And in private - it is desirable to take full-frame optics to a full-frame camera.
Full-frame analogue 18-200 - 28-300.
A person who asks such questions hardly knows what a "full frame" is.
I know :) stabilization is important to me, but I have not found any comparisons
“I used the [Nikon 28-300] lens for about a week, even took it to a wedding where I tried to film a report with it. As a result, it turned out that for reportage shooting he lacks either speed or focusing tenacity ”- from the review of Arkady.
IMHO, let it be a cropped analogue better (all the same, for sites a large image resolution is not needed), but fast than a slow full-frame. But I'm not sure the Tamrons are better in this regard.
Tell me please, is this Soviet tripod suitable for Nikon D40-D3300 cameras, OR IS IT ALREADY OUTDATE?
Undoubtedly outdated! It will not be able to work with modern cameras with autofocus, as well as high-resolution sensors.
Well, why, for the d40 it will certainly fit with a stretch, but for the d3300 it is hardly, unlikely ...
No, well, if you set the M mode, turn off all automatic functions and put it through the Helios adapter, then it is possible. For reliability, it's best to download the latest tripod firmware. And most importantly, insulate the contacts on the tripod head pad to avoid short circuits.
Outdated, there is nothing to think about.
On this tripod I shot 60 cables with a “Kiev”, everything was fine, now I attached a platform for attaching binoculars 12x45 to the tripod, and for the photo I bought a new one on Ali.
THIS IS
there is a separate branch for horses, you were not asked.
Excuse me, but in my opinion recently people have forgotten how to turn on their heads, they need a “take out and put down” result, although everything can be seen from the photo. Hence the banter.
And from the photo you can see that the tripod has at least the most standard 1/4 "thread, which is used on almost all cameras manufactured since the 50s of the last century, probably, but even if you find a rare retro carcass with 3/8" (although even if you will hardly find it, you will hardly use it), even you can use it by pulling the retaining ring out of the bolt and turning it upside down.
To your health))
In principle, it would be nice to have a review on this tripod. There are already suitable locations.
railroad tracks with cats?
Paths with cats nervously smoke on the sidelines.
Building, as in the review of fujik, only now the view from the inside.
Yes, even if it was more correct to ask the question of whether the thread on the lens head is universal, it would not have caused ridicule, compared to the phrase written in capital letters - "IS HE ALREADY OUTDATE?"
Just now I noticed the slip. Not a "lens", but a "tripod".
it is not a slip of the tongue, mon cher, but a Freudian slip of the tongue. So it goes…
I cannot disagree. I'm going to sprinkle ashes on my head ...
With the Ashes of Vesuvius or the Ashes of the Bonfires of the Holy Roman Inquisition, what continues to burn photographers? :)
Arkady, good afternoon!
I have a question for you. Help with choosing a camera, the task is to take off clothes in the apartment, the light from several table lamps. The photo is processed after in Photoshop and used for instagram, possibly in the future for the site.
I started with inexpensive soap dishes, but the quality is not satisfactory, there are no textures, volume, there is simply no picture.
Therefore, I am looking for a DSLR with raw and with a minimal budget. Color rendering, contrast and sharpness are important. I tried to shoot on a Sony a6000 taken for a day - it is convenient, a decent picture but the price.
I am attaching a photo taken on a Sony A6000 after processing
Yes, you need a camera just for this task. Perhaps this is the nikon d40 that you often write about?
I will buy a used camera. The budget is approximately 100-150 ye.
Thank you!
When illuminated by table lamps, the d40 may not “take off”. Look for something newer with a matrix.
The D40 is not very good for this and it will be dark for him indoors without a flash. Better to look at something on CMOS: Nikon D3100, Canon 450D
There is such a nondescript parameter for cameras, called Low-light ISO, which is indicated on some sites that hate here :) it is worth focusing on it for your purposes, otherwise you will have the whole picture in small ripples (noise), which is noticeable even on a6000
Hello! I shoot with Nikon d90 and Nikon 1.4D lens.
Photo quality has deteriorated. Poor zooming in, and many, many chromatic aberrations.
Is there a problem with the camera or the lens itself?
Considering that nothing fell or broke
Moisture has not entered the lens? Condensation could also occur if the equipment was brought into a warm room after frost.
No, no moisture got in. I also try to remove defects in Lightroom, but to no avail.
The photo quality is just awful, as if I took a screenshot 10 times on my phone.
Can't the camera pull out? Although, it is unlikely
Well, it's elementary to check what's the matter. from a tripod in LV, we focus precisely with our hands and look at the risalt. if ok, then the problem is the AF camera, if everything is bad, then the problem is in the optics.
and in general, a photo in the studio, without processing, directly from the camera. shoot something contrasting and in good light.
I need advice, I had a panasonic gx80 camera without a lens, a beginner in the video, I used to shoot a panasonic 770hc camcorder, there was a problem with flowers and artifacts, so I needed a lens, I thought I could take it for Ali, but what exactly, even with the study of the material, I did not understand , a camera is needed - once a month to shoot a video in the format of talking heads, in other cases it removes a table from a meter and what does not happen (many objects of different sizes). only for video, mainly in an apartment with artificial light sources, tell me what is better to take and why (so that I understand for general development)
budget around 5 plus, minus, for some reason I liked TTArtisan 50 mm F1.2
Such aperture ratio (1,2) is redundant for these purposes. On less fast manuals, it is easy to miss with focus. Then, focal, you will have an ether of 100mm with a fifty-kopeck piece, which is narrow for an apartment. Look at the same Chinese from 25mm and less (for items wider, there will be more grip).
thanks, what exactly would you advise, Meike 25 mm F1.8? As I understand it, I need to take it under the M4 / 3?
Of course, under the M4 / 3. Not just Meike. 7Artisans, PERGEAR, Andoer, Brightin Star, Neewer, etc. They are mostly similar. Here on the site there are reviews of some.
Good afternoon again, took meike 25mm and .. it turned out to be very narrow for my tasks, I remove a table from 1-1,5m very little fits into the frame, what can you advise from about budget options? maybe somehow differently you can increase the size of the frame?
If you have nowhere to go further, you need to take a wider-angle lens. The same Meike, Pergear, 7Artisans, etc. there is 12mm. (will be 2 times wider). Or native Panasonic 12-32 af zoom. He's not expensive. From Olympus, the whale (14-42) is also fine.
good day. just starting to master flash. got such a set. yongnuo yn 622 tx, yn 622, and rf 603 2 pieces. there is a flash godox tt350. and as I understand it, if you put it on yn 622, then with the help of yn622tx you can remotely control the flash. and on the 603, you can put on any compatible flash with the system (I have a nocon), then control it only in manual mode. who was not asked about compatibility, no one could clearly answer. the answer was buy nikon for nikon. And if I buy a few more yn622s, will I be able to plant flashes of different manufacturers on them and control them remotely or only in manual mode?
Hello! Help with choosing a camera + lens up to $ 3000. There is no brand affinity; the priority is for soft cream portraits. It doesn't matter which system, as there is no optics park on hand. I look towards Sony A7 III and Nikon D780 as they have a relatively affordable Sigma 85mm 1.4
A very difficult choice. Canon 135 / 2L gives a really creamy, very specific picture. From the budget, the native Canon 85 / 1.8 will be a cheap and compact solution if you can find a good copy. If it fails, 85 / 1.4IS is guaranteed to be a good solution. If you focus on the 5D Mark III in good condition, then the native optics will allow you to painlessly switch to modern mirrorless cameras.
Portrait is a specific genre, it is more about the model and the light. Therefore, one small softbox (or even two) or a reflector decides much more than any most sophisticated lens and even more so a camera (shooting at low ISO under artificial light), but usually people are looking for a silver bullet.
nikkor noctone 58 1.2 - ideal for portraits, even open. but manual and very expensive glass.
Hello, tell me, who owns the info, my external flash gives correct synchronized impulses during high-speed shooting, but only the first frame is illuminated in the camera in the series, Nikon D3300 + Nikon 17-55 f-2.8
And what kind of flash?
sorry Nikon SB600
Firstly, this flash, unlike older models, cannot work in stroboscope mode, only single flashes. Secondly, the recharge time is highly dependent on the freshness of the charge of the batteries (accumulators) used. Thirdly, the flash takes time not only to recharge, but also to cool down between a series of fires. This is described in more detail in the instructions. At the same time, it will flash with less power, but it will seem that it works normally, although the frames will be dark (the readiness of the flash charge should be looked at its indicator-lamp).
Thank you, I also watched the video on this topic, everything became clear, it is possible, but difficult.
There is also an article on this site:
https://radojuva.com/2012/07/obzor-nikon-sb-600/
And in this article, at the bottom of a bunch of links on the topic of outbreaks:
https://radojuva.com/2013/02/nikon-sb-flash-buy/
Question.
Is it possible to find old firmware for nikon d5300. After update 1.03, the sigma dg 70-300 lens does not work. I looked over a lot of things. Not found(
Looking for 1.01 or 1.02 since there is 18-55 af-p
Found in 3 minutes))
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hTilzYYP_EZ7VBS-wCE4ZoY2-HFc4Z1c/view
1.00
Oh, well, 1.01
https://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SCANNER-Digital-CAMERA-WEBCAM/Nikon/Nikon-D5300-Camera-Firmware-101.shtml
softpedia does not open the file in any way, I tried it on 3 computers
I personally checked, from softpedia (though not on three, only on one computer), the sfx archive is downloaded when you click on "download ..." and then, using the first link, in the bin file of the firmware file, look for the problem on your side.
If possible, follow the procedure with 1.01 and 1.02
and send me the firmware by email or google disk
1.01 - https://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SCANNER-Digital-CAMERA-WEBCAM/Nikon/Nikon-D5300-Camera-Firmware-101.shtml
1.02 - https://drivers.softpedia.com/get/SCANNER-Digital-CAMERA-WEBCAM/Nikon/Nikon-D5300-Camera-Firmware-1-02.shtml
Here is 1.02 on another exchanger and without an archive.
https://ru.files.fm/u/n8cauzyb7
Hover over the file - download - and ok.
thank you tremendous)
Hello. I got from a friend a Canon 60D carcass with a Canon 50mm 1.8 fix. I run, study, the zoom is not enough (sometimes you can't move a tree in the park, you can't approach a bird on a branch). I look towards the used Canon 18-135 IS, IS STM (is there a significant difference other than the sound of the motor - I almost never shoot video, it's uncritical) and recently a bush Tamron 18-200 (which is without a stub) turned up, which is better? A whale lens from 60d did not go (they took a carcass and immediately bought a fix). They want about 150 dollars for the canon, and the tamron for 100. I don’t want to carry two more fixes with me at different distances, I’m taking pictures for myself.
Shooting at focal lengths of about 200mm and without a stub is a junk job, shutter speeds are needed about 1/500, and even cover the aperture. Don't talk about a tripod - mobility and efficiency are lost, and especially convenience.
On the other hand, the input is the same as on 135, can you get up on tamron 200? just don't stick it out beyond 130-140 and it will be the same? (well, except for the stub)
I shoot at 200 2.8, and sometimes at 200 1.8 from a tripod. I don't see a problem.
Native (18-135) is better.
Just because the native + has a stabilizer? or still there are hidden pluses?
Native optically it will be better, well, the stub will not be useless at all, at the long end and shutter speeds longer than ~ 1/120, for sure. Under the condition of not too bright lighting, you will definitely come across such shutter speeds.
I see, thanks.
Is STM much better than plain IS? Engine volume is not the point
Plus there is also a variant of SIGMA 18-200 F3.5-6.3 DC OS
Good day! The problem is this: Nikon D50 camera, shot in RAW (NEF), accidentally deleted pictures from the laptop (SSD) and after recovery they do not open, writes "the original data format is not recognized." I used a bunch of programs and spent a week of time and zero sense! Who can help?
A bunch of programs - what are these?
Stellar Phoenix Photo Recovery
DMDE Portable Official
Starus Recovery Software
Runtime GetDataBack Simple
PhotoDOCTOR v3
Wondershare Data Recovery
Handy Recovery
Ontrack EasyRecovery
Recuva Retail
Hetman partition recovery
R-Studio
Hetman Photo Recovery
Here are some of them.
If there is a system on the same SSD disk where the pictures were, then most likely it has already overwritten the data, especially since you have tried many programs and installed them. If the photos were on a physically different disk, you can try Tenorshare 4DDiG, it helped me, although I tried Rekuva and Hitman before it, etc. The files were on the flash drive.
No, not on the same disk. As soon as I noticed the loss, I immediately stopped operations with the disk. Some programs show that the state of most of the files is excellent and the recovery rate is 100%, but they restore unreadable nonsense. I'll try your program today. Thanks
The program did not help
send one recovered raw / nef to me by mail
Now.
Well, as if file recovery does not mean that it has correctly assembled its structure across the disk. So headers and sizes could come up, starting blocks, and then everything was beaten. Or made the wrong choice from two files potentially located in the same place.
They sent me files - they are just filled with zeros from start to finish. Huge empty array of zeros. Here cloud link, maybe someone will conjure.
That means everything. I rarely even managed to restore a freshly deleted folder. As well as the recorded videos of the wife. The old ones, years ago, yes, and the last one she wrote down was either garbage or a badly beaten file.
If there are already zeros in the recovered files, then there is simply nothing to conjure over. It would be possible to conjure over the hard disk, brute-force programs, maybe what it will be possible (they all work quite differently)
.
Hetman somehow restored it on my memory card, though partially.
For me, when the hard drive was covered, the jipegs and raves of Nikon and Sony were restored. Video files not recovered - too large. Of course, everything depends on the degree of damage to the disk and the programs used. Well, and hands, I guess.
If in Kiev, then try to contact the service on the date - they transferred data from the damaged disk to a new one there.
Here I was recovering data from dead disks, not cheap, but effective - https://512byte.ua/
I'll take a note.
So I understand that if you have already been poking around in the disk, then there is no chance to restore anything?
and make a backup? is it really so lazy \ expensive?
I didn’t say that these are my disks :)
Not lazy and not expensive. Why write obvious things if you don't want anything?
... help.
Alexey, he would have known where to fall - he would have spread the straws (c).
This applies to all spheres of life, not only working with hard drives :)
Any human failure (even yours) can be disassembled in theory in theory with the use of "were you too lazy?"
But all this will be post factum.
he is never wrong.
I've been backing up everything for 30 years. on different media, different technologies, and so on. Everyone has jambs, but some obvious things can be foreseen :)
When the hard drive is covered, you can either connect to the working controller and extract the data without problems with pancakes, or, if there is a problem with pancakes, the service software try to read what is read, replacing the bad sectors with zeros. If the damage is pinpoint, and not the head hit the surface and cut thoroughly with shavings, then you can pull out quite a lot. If deletion occurs, the chances are significantly less. File systems are complex, there are several levels of decoupling of the hardware sector sequencing and their software representation. Perhaps, the card controller, when you mark a sector as vacated, transparently substitutes some other sector from the previously unused ones by this number - after all, they have a certain number of read-write cycles and advanced memory cards take this fact into account, carrying out constant rotation. Therefore, you get your zeros at the output - the card does not take into account that the data will be restored.
So yes, if the photos are really valuable - Lightroom and NAS. If the pictures are regularly sorted. a terabyte fan is enough for the eyes. Dies network - will be on the disk. The disk dies - pull it out of the network.
Have you invented a pancake reader? Patent your invention urgently.