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Nikon 3200 18-55
I want to take up product photography and upgrade. Tell me to change the device to the D5200 18-105 or to save up on the D7100 or get a better lens? Fix 50 mm, 85mm ...?
Why change the camera? An advanced camera is handy, of course. Only objects don't run anywhere. Macro lens and light is what you need
It is definitely not necessary to change your camera for product photography. Just what do you mean by subject shooting? What are the sizes of the items? It depends on whether you need a macro lens.
And what exactly are the advantages of these cameras are you going to use in your product photography? They even have the same matrices, plus or minus. Everything must somehow go from specific needs a la “I got down to business, faced such and such difficulties, found out that it is the limitations of the camera (and not the lens / light / skills) that hinder me, and such and such a camera is the restriction removes ”.
nikkor 105 2.8D micro, but only manual focus will be on the soap dishes.
> soap dishes
lol
Some comrades disparagingly call Nikon's initial cameras, which do not have a focusing screwdriver, “point-and-shoot”.
True, today the situation has become somewhat more complicated with the release of premium segment mirrorless cameras))
I've never seen anything like it
"I've never seen anything like it"
So here, just now :)
Is there a screwdriver on the UPC? here is the answer.
Nikon has exactly one soap dish, which is not quite a soap dish, although it is very similar to it. and I even have it :)
Are you talking about the 3000 series? So the 5000th series is the same in size, only the functionality is a little wider. And even the lack of broad functionality does not prevent the entry-level cameras from taking good pictures.
I think a conversation about one
Of course not. 3xxx and 5xxx are not cameras. even the gift of ninnada. and the one that I called a soap box, but not quite, is called te-pisyat. a very peculiar camera. although, in its essence, the camera is extremely entry-level, it has a screwdriver, a top display and an excellent color CCD matrix. And the funny thing is that the 80-200 2.8 focuses on it exactly on any FR, while the older Nikons, which I also have, smear the focus at 200mm, and I have to shoot at 175-180mm.
although I generally shoot with kenon, and I just collect nikons :)
> 3xxx and 5xxx are not cameras
> I called it a soap box, but not quite, my name is te-pisyat
> Nikons just collect
Very exciting. Well, and those cameras that cameras - you probably love them very much, dress them up in suits and play with them?
If these are not cameras, then what? The D5300 did not interfere with me at all to get decent shots, yes, with the choice of optics it is more difficult, a little more difficult in some other moments, but the cameras were excellent, and the small format in the face of the D610 just slightly reduced the number of hemorrhoids for me, but nothing more. In addition to the D850 and D5, a familiar professional photographer has a D3300, he does not turn up his nose from it.
There is certainly no point in changing the carcass for a subject. Is that at 5xxx, because of the rotary display. Or immediately to the Federation Council, if the budget allows. If not, it's better to spend money on something else: light, table, backgrounds, etc.
Absolute IMHO: if you intend to constantly work with an object in a static location of the device, then it is important to make sure whether it is possible to control the operation of the device from a computer, via Remote Control for Nikon. In this regard, the younger Nikon line is severely cut even in comparison with the 5th series, except that you can try the third-party digiCamControl program. I use digiCam myself with my Nikon d3100. But the d5100 is already normally controlled by Nikon's native toolkit. Although ... Nikonovsky somehow falls short of the capabilities of the Canon software, unfortunately ...
Should I go from nikon d5100 to d7100? Thanks.
It depends on what you want from such a transition.
What doesn't suit you about the D5100? Why exactly on the D7100?
Any camera is a compromise. Lose the swivel screen, get the top display. The 7100 is stronger but heavier. The files are larger, and the computer will have a harder time handling them. But the 7100 has a screwdriver, you can use non-motorized lenses ... And so on. There are a million nuances
There is simply an opportunity to buy for 22 with a shot of only 000. I love macro photography and, as I read, the 9 gives a sharper shot.
Trueash! Thank you for your feedback, all this is familiar, I just wanted a new technique. The sight was at first at 750, but ... a lot of priblud for a crop and being torn between two fires is not for me. I need one thing for me.
Thank you all and all the best. Do not be ill!
Hello! Can you please tell me if you need to disable the “VR” option on the camera if the “VR” option on the lens is on? (Nikon D3500 camera.Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR lens)
Does this camera have a stabilizer ?!
Setting “vr” in the camera for lenses that do not have this switch on the body, but with a stabilizer, for example, af-p 70-300 vr.
Look, they were wise)
there is
now it is turned on in the camera and manually turned on on the lens ... I think some option should be excluded
Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor
In the review about 50 1.4 D is mentioned in the list (item 1,2)
thank you
Good evening.
I have added the MTO-1000 object for the photographic month.
On the new M-39-42 (I attach a photo) it looks like screwing.
I can’t hook on my Nikon D750 through the sleepers.
K_ltse KP-A / N does not get screwed up, croc is prickly yakis іnshy.
Krishka is screwed onto the obverse from the Zenith.
I’ll be for help.
KP-A / N is not guilty of mother of any money and obviously not to screw up the M42. If the ob'ktiv does not become through vbudovanie sleeps, then the best time is to sell the ob'ktiv.
Dyakuyu for a comment. And yak KP-A / N is guilty of krypitisya to the obktiv? three bolts?
KP-A / N can only be attached to the object with the shank "A", so, three guintics (dorechi, thread in tsikh gvitikakh стат :)) https://radojuva.com/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/comment-page-1/#m42-mount
And I think for what are the cogs)
Having tried їх screw it up - virivaє, do not worry about what to cry about.
For all the shank is іnshy, for all the hands :)
Shvidsha for everything will have to, whichever transitions are screwed, I don’t know anything else.
Mabut treba vidihnuti, and re-read the article on my head.
“Then there are lenses with M42 thread, the use of which imposes some difficulties when working with the Nikon system. The working distance of the M42 is shorter than that of Nikon, so here the problem of focusing at infinity arises. To install such lenses on Nikon cameras, there is an adapter KP-42 / N and KP-42 / N with a lens. These adapters are also called M42-Nikon and M42-Nikon with corrective lens. "
I will try the M42-Nikon adapter.
I got it) With a compensating lens M-42-nikon PIXCO.
And you can't get the x2-Nikon converter ((
The first step is to wake up the cameras by turning it on the object.
Dyakuyu for the comments.
1
There is a margin at infinity, with the m42-Nikon adapter it should work.
I have a similar one, but 500 mm, 3M-5A, everything is ok.
I got it) With a compensating lens M-42-nikon PIXCO.
And you can't get the x2-Nikon converter ((
The first step is to wake up the cameras by turning it on the object.
Dyakuyu for the comments.
shte butt
There is a review https://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/nikkor-lenses/auto-focus-lenses/dx/af-s-dx-nikkor-16-80mm-f-2-8-4e-ed-vr ?
Not yet, send the lens for a test - it will :)
I will not send my darling. I love him myself. Yes, and I live far away
In Novosibirsk.
"In Novosibirsk." Are you talking to me?
I made a mistake?
I can't figure out what this stray is https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hfb02f015e1bf40aea3a4c56d90dce53c1/DOOMO-D-120.jpg_50x50.jpg_.webp ... Light meter?
Yes, for Leica.
What function does it perform for Leica?
Light meter.
And how much is it really a light meter?
Appreciate for yourself:
https://www.35mmc.com/08/02/2021/doomo-meter-d-light-meter-review-for-the-analogue-experience/
Thanks for the clarification, Ivan! All the best, do not get sick.
Have a nice one you too!
Good afternoon everyone! Recently I became the proud owner of Nikon D5100. This is my first DSLR. Please do not judge strictly, but I decided to start somewhere, and after looking at the reviews on YouTube and reading many articles (including here), I bought this device. Almost immediately I bought a Viltrox-JY610N-II flash for it, since the basic one did not suit me categorically, and I was offered a very pleasant price. But the question is what ... after taking some pictures, I began to understand that the standard kit lens 18-55, although not bad for a start, but I want (for the future, otherwise my wife will not understand the next waste) something more interesting ... I am thinking about purchasing a Yongnuo 50mm F / 1.8N for portraits and Nikkor AF-S DX 55-200mm f4 / 5 as a versatile option for landscapes, etc. PS The camera was bought for family photography and for entertainment, but I would like to get more from it. Thanks in advance!
55-200 is strange for landscapes.
Maybe I put it wrong ... I just do not understand all the subtleties of shooting, although I am constantly learning the materiel ... tell me, then, please, which is better to take a universal lens?
Leave 18-55 as generic for now. With experience, you yourself will understand which lens you are missing.
I would slightly correct the choice - instead of YN, take 50 1.8G, for landscapes, leave 18-55 until you understand what exactly and how you want to shoot.
The choice of the Yongnuo 50mm f / 1.8N is primarily due to the price. it is at least twice as cheap as Nikon ... but if Nikon is better, then it is worth digging up a little and buying it? or to start with Yongnuo for portraits?
For portraits and other photography, you must first "get your hands on", learn to shoot well. Native Nikon lenses are always better. The 35 / 1.8 DX is not bad as the first good and cheap fix. Although he is not a "portraitist", he can also take portraits.
Understood thanks!
Better save up for 50 1.8G or 35 1.8 DX instead of Yongnuo, with which there may be problems with af.
Thank you! Then I'll postpone the purchase a little
Photo, part of the starry sky, part of the earth. And shooting parameters: ISO, aperture, 30 sec. sky and 20 sec. land. Here's how to understand or where can you read about different shooting times of heaven and earth?
And what is the actual question? Different objects have different illumination - that's why they are exposed for a different amount of time.
How can you make an exposure of one part for 30 seconds in one photo and 20 seconds for the other? That is the question. We are not talking about gluing two photos.
No way. Physical process - the shutter opens, the ENTIRE matrix is exposed to light from the lens, the shutter closes. Either you take two frames with different exposure times, and then glue them together using the mask, or add 2/3 eV of the underexposed area using the mask (or remove 2/3 eV from the overexposed area) during development - subsequent processing.
Another option is the Cokin square gradient filters in the holder. Pick the one that suits you, position it to cover the ground you want to under-light and expose the entire frame for 30 seconds. Light passing through the darkened area of the filter will be absorbed.
But you need a lot of such filters, with different types of gradients, different densities and different zones - from half of the frame, from a third, etc. Plus, not all frames allow you to unambiguously highlight the sky in order to open and cover it - this is perhaps some kind of line of the sea, perfectly flat. Plus, for wide-angle lenses, you need especially expensive filters and especially expensive holders of non-standard sizes, so it's much easier to take two shots or do post-processing.
Just cover part of the frame with black cardboard in front of the lens after 20 seconds and that's it.
Rather, close first and open ten seconds later. While you will close the cardboard back and forth, trying to close the desired part, it will have time to get into the photo. Also an option, but this. If there is no hellish overexposure, to stop driving into the shadow in Photoshop is not a problem at all.
With a 30 second shutter speed, accidentally hitting a black object in the frame won't change anything. Try it yourself, you can even wave your hand in front of the lens, if there is no light on it, then there is nothing to be afraid of.
such photos are always glued together from several frames of different exposure. because no DD is enough :)
Hello Arkady. Can you tell me what kind of attachment is the lens.
Does it look like a round dovetail?
Photo to the studio.
photo of the device in the studio.
Here is a photo of the 400 / 5.9 NPS lens tail about the lens itself. Not
found nothing.
Most likely, this is for a large format (sheet film), maybe from an X-ray camera or a projector / reproducer.
http://forum.mflenses.com/nps-400mm-f5-9-t28392.html - does not clarify much, but nonetheless.
Some of the Japanese 3rd party. They had a huge number of 400 / 6.3 versions and a few slightly faster 400 / 5.9 for the T2 shank - Ringfoto 400 5.9, this NPS, Accura, Typonar. It is very similar to today's China, where as soon as someone released, there will immediately be a dozen of those who slam.
Alexey, Kirill, Roman! Thanks for the clarification and the time spent, the truth turned out to be in the gluing (from the very beginning I was given the wrong information) of two photos. in photoshop. All the best and do not get sick.
Hi people.
I own a D5300 camera, I really want to go to full frame. Tell me which full-frame nikon to pay attention to (preferably so that you can buy a new one). I looked at the D750, but still a little expensive.
Well, only 610 is cheaper))
https://radojuva.com/2013/09/endorphin/
are you sure this would be a good replacement?)
Cheaper than D750.
"Preferably new"
Z5 + FTZ
Hello everybody. About a month ago, I managed to buy a Z7 II carcass with an adapter for F lenses (Nikon's people will understand, and the rest may not read further). there are very good lenses available, but the dimensions and weight with the adapter ... - ass :), I'm going to slowly switch to z lenses, The first in line is 35 mm f / 1,8. Have any of your regular and hedgehog comrades on the site used this lens? if yes, please comment on Personal impressions. I am literate, I can climb the Internet. Interesting is not biased and someone else's, but personal thoughts.
Canon RP camera
Apparently, the camera adds some kind of color correction to jpg, RAW files. But in the raw (CR3) format, photoshop does not see these settings and produces a faded grayish picture. It's the same thing with lightroom, with the only difference that I see the Canon version for a whole fraction of a second when I open RAW for the first time, and then the picture fades.
Is there some way to tweak the options in Lightroom and Photoshop so they can see these Canon settings?
And in general, what kind of color correction is this and where is it exhibited?
So far, the best I've come up with is, if you need to edit files with Canon settings, then open them in Digital Photo Professional (it's impossible to edit in it, it's very stupid, slows down) and convert them to tiff, and only then edit them in photoshop and lightrooom.
inside any RAW there is a JPEG, that is what you see when the RAW is opened, and only then the debyer / rendering is done and you see their result. if the existing software does not understand the new RAW format, then obviously you need to download something newer.
Actually, the question already contains the answer.
-We need color like in a chamber jeep - open it in DPP (it's like dogma among canonists)
-Feel the power to wind up the color at your discretion - open it in acr / lightroom / something else.
Everything is elementary.
Actually, the question was how to open a file in FS, LR and have a Canon color for other corrections.
“So far, the best I've come up with is, if you need to edit files with Canon settings, then open them in Digital Photo Professional (it's impossible to edit in it, it’s very stupid, slows down) and convert them to tiff, and only then edit them in photoshop and lightrooom.”
Canon DPP is a very handy program.
It (like Nikon Capture NX-D or Sigma PhotoPro) is demanding on the speed of the hard disk (ideally, you need an SSD), processor power and memory capacity.
It also strongly depends on where the raws are.
If the program is on an SSD, and the files are on an external hard drive or a slow hard drive like WD Green, then everything will twitch. Ideally, the pictures should be on the same SSD as the program, so that there are no calls to another hard drive.
For normal operation with modern converters, it is advisable to have at least a Core i7 6700-7700-8700 or Ryzen 1800x-2700x (all these processors are CHEAP), 16GB of RAM, a 500GB-1TB SSD (recently cheaper), and a more or less modern video card released no older than 5 years ago.
DDP is the best for Canon. Converting 1000 RAW files from Canon 6D (Mark I) to I3-3240 16GB DDR3 RAM, and my parents' HDD took about 14 hours (a night off).
Arkady,
I do not argue about DPP. I use it myself with Units and I really like it.
For convenience (I'll say a seditious thing), I like it more than Nikonovsky and Sigmovsky raw-converter.
Modern converters (branded from Nikon, Canon, Sigma) are quite demanding.
We used to complain about Fujikovsky's Hyper Utility HU HS-V3. And I can say that even now it is leisurely and demanding, if you set the maximum display and conversion quality to 16bit Tiff.
And in terms of speed - now without SSD, 8-16GB memory and core i7 / ryzen, there is a big loss of time ..
I now have a Ryzen 2700x + 32GB of RAM + 1TB SSD two pieces and a 2TB HDD.
There used to be a Corei7 4790K + 16GB of RAM and there were different hard drives and SSDs.
Now raw converters have become smoother. But I still want it a little faster, so maybe I'll change it to 5800x, it's faster.
There is a camera tab in ACR, where you can select a profile. If Adobe copied the camera profile more or less correctly, then you will get almost a picture from DPP.
In general, if you need exactly the camera color and settings, then you do everything right in Tiff and then in Photoshop.
Such a question: there is a Nikon D610 and a Nikon 85mm 1.8g lens. The lens is excellent in every sense, but in the future I plan to switch to F1.4. The best option is, of course, 85mm 1.4g, but I'm not a professional photographer, so I don't want to spend so much money. I do not consider high-aperture 85s from Sigma, as it burns for me from how the autofocus of sigma lenses works on Nikon's mount. There was a negative experience and therefore I do not want to take sigma.
Only Nikon 85mm 1.4D and Samyang 85mm 1.4 autofocus remain.
I know well the pros (awesome bokeh, constructive) and cons (vacuum cleaner autofocus, outdated technologies in general) of the old 85mm 1.4D, but I don't know practically anything about the Korean. There are few reviews and reviews, the pictures on flickr seem to be tolerable. The manual samyangs 16mm f2 and 35mm f1.4 left extremely positive impressions.
I would like to know if there are owners of Samyang 85mm 1.4 AF among the inhabitants of Radozhiva and their opinion about this glass.
Change 1.8 to 1.4? Yes, you, my friend, are a gourmet!
This is exactly
Arkady, why are ALL my comments deleted? Although I am as polite as possible, and do not break the rules.
You violated the rules, became personal, insulted users and fell under the filter.
When trying to merge photos into a panorama in fsh cs6, it comes out: error 22. Window does not have a constructor. Line: 388. What does it mean?
Error in the script on line 388) it seems that the program is damaged or there is a problem with the networks. Try reinstalling or find a different version
The program is faked and most likely this is the problem. Thank you for the clarification, Mikhail, all the best and don't get sick.
In that. Often the original image is squeezed by “throwing out all that is unnecessary”. Look for another distribution.
Good day. There is a niikon d7100 with such a problem: in rezh.lV it focuses at any distance, and if through the viewfinder, then near ok, and farther away the lens travels and does not focus. Was tested on two lenses. How serious and how expensive is it being treated ??? Body with a funny run and a tasty price, I have an interest
Why, when I edit a photo in jpeg in lightroom, I often see artifacts in the sky and clouds, it looks like the bitness has been lowered, and they are visible only with sufficient magnification.
An inexperienced viewer will not notice them, but I know that the photo is spoiled, although it looks much better than the previous one.
But, if you do the same with raw, then this is not observed from the word at all.
Why is this happening, or is jpeg not suitable for serious (complex, hard, strong) processing at all?
It turns out something like on the screen.
I certainly understand you say: - jpeg does not stretch well, but if my exposure was set correctly ... And many professionals shoot in jpeg and somehow edit their photos without artifacts ...
PS I've noticed that if you twist the colors separately (red, green, yellow, you know ...), and even adjust the shade separately, then artifacts appear in jpeg much more than if you did not twist these sliders at all. That is, something can be done, but I think these are not all the secrets of jpeg.
PPS And it does not depend on the program, even on a tablet (iPad) if you turn it in a standard program (through the standard menu), then the shade also kills jpeg in terms of artifacts on the clouds and in the sky ...
These are sharpening artifacts. At the exhibition, the light did not converge like a wedge. When you adjust the hue, then you pull the exposure of a single channel - naturally there will be more artifacts. How to edit JPEG do not ask, I do not know))
... and this effect is called pasteurization.
In honor of the distinguished photographer Louis Pasteur.
in RAW file 14 or 16 bits are allocated for color, in JPEG only 8 bits. any questions? :)
It's not just about bitness. The same 8-bit PSD, PNG or TIFF, obtained directly from RAW, will allow for some serious processing without such image artifacts. In JPEG it is generally difficult to talk about the number of bits per pixel in connection with the way information is stored. JPEG converts an image from RGB format to YUV format, a kind of Lab, separately storing brightness and two color difference channels. Due to the lower sensitivity of the eye to the legendary COLOR (more precisely, with a lower resolution of color vision), JPEG immediately throws out 3/4 of color information, storing only one average pixel out of four, which is why we see characteristic squares when trying to compress JPEG repeatedly. Then the Fourier transform, converting the image into a frequency form, cutting off high frequencies (how much we cut - this is the degree of compression - such is the degradation of the image), then the compression of the resulting data using Huffman codes. It is difficult to say how many bits are obtained per individual pixel of the image.
I started taking pictures of our smaller brothers, not at home, and realized that there was no way without a tripod. What would you advise for Nikon D200 with a 28-200 lens, so as not to fall from its own weight? Well, I dare to ask - so that it was not more expensive than the camera itself ... No matter how much I looked at the outlet, all are flimsy and break in a month ...
A tripod is not needed, but the lens (and what is there, the camera at the same time) does not hurt to change, unless of course you need high-quality shots.
The minimum that you can count on for $$ (from Nikon) is some kind of D3300 + 70-300 af-s vr (70-300 af-p vr)
For "game" often 300mm is not enough, even on a crop.
It is not enough (although often enough), but everything that is higher is already more difficult to call “budget”.
That on the crop, that on the small format (FX) 300 and will remain 300 by "magnification", on the crop only the angle of view will change (the frame will be cropped at the edges) and nothing more. The phrases of the form are always surprising - “on the crop it is even useful”, and what is not clear except that on the crop to obtain the same frame composition, you need to move 1.5 / 1.6 times further.
Everything is extremely simple, today the resolution on a typical crop, which on a typical ff is about 24MP, while the area of the crop matrix is 2,25 ... 2.5 times less, it is due to this that the magnification works.
Now, if we were to compare the crop at 10mp and ff at 24, yes, there would be no “advantages” for the crop, it’s easier to crop the picture on the computer as it should.
A 24-megapixel crop has one drawback that this kind of "enlargement", that is, cropping negates - these crops are extremely demanding on the quality of the optics, it is even clearly noticeable with one optics between the D7200 and the D7500, it would seem that the difference in the size of the subpixel is not much large, but it affects the result very well. But if the owner is not picky about the quality of the picture or is ready to buy premium optics, then why not)
But the new af-p should be good (and for its price it is completely different)
Which is 4.5-5.6E for a price higher than the carcass is good) But the 24 megapixel crop also draws much worse, at 20.9 and 45 everything is already fine.
The animals are twitchy. You will have a perfectly sharp background with smeared animals due to the long exposure, even a stub will not help much here for the same reason. Good lighting, aperture and shooting in batches. And a lot of patience.
Birds, squirrels and all sorts of chipmunks are also fast (besides the fact that they spin while sitting in place). And shy. You just aimed, but it has already escaped, it is difficult to follow. And you will adjust the tripod for it. A tripod is used to shoot leisurely lions in the savannah at a great distance, because the 600/4 is a very large and heavy lens.
For smaller ones, both the camera and the lens would be good for something completely different.
In this case, a monopod and 4-5 frames per second will be convenient.
The monopod is comfortable in sports where mobility is important, but the trajectories of movement are predictable. When an object dashes and flies or jumps from place to place like a squirrel bird, it will be more of a hindrance than an advantage. And the agility of objects negates the potential advantages of a monopod. I have naked guinea pigs - skinny, when they are afraid - they tremble finely. And against a perfectly sharp background, unsharp trembling pigs are obtained. And the smaller the living creatures, the more they twitch.
Well, all animals are to some extent mobile, to a greater or lesser degree. And, nevertheless, monopod + 3-4 frames per second. If the weather permits tomorrow, I'll go look for butterflies / spiders / bugs. They are also not very fond of posing when shooting 15-20 frames for stacking from a distance of 8-10 cm. This is where the stirring pops up. I saw this sadness at home
How long can a camera last in hours (I have a Canon 600d) with the screen off and the auto-off function disabled?
Take the 600D, insert your battery, turn on the screen, turn off the auto-off, start the timer, periodically check if your camera is working, stop the timer, tell us the result.
Good day! I would like to hear advice from experts ... the other day my whale 18-55 on Nikon D5100 ordered to live a long time - autofocus stopped working, there is no way to repair it now (it is not so close to the nearest service, and I looked at prices, there is no special sense) ... But the question is not that ... for everyday tasks (I am engaged in photography not so long ago, just for myself) which is the best option to take - 18-105 or 55-200 ... I tend more to the second option, because for portraits of my wife / children I like it better, and for birds / flowers too ... I'm not ready for expensive lenses yet :) but I need some advice from the pros. Thanks in advance!
Take the native 18-140, a good universal lens for your camera, and for 70-300 birds only the AF-S version, AF-P will not work with the D5100.
The price difference between 18-140 and 55-200 is more than 2 times ... and birds / butterflies are just an example ... in fact, a lens for family photos
If you are ready to sacrifice not only a wide, but also a normal angle, then of course take 55-200, for your money approx. You can search for it on Avito for 2 ... 3p another 18-55, because you can feel the lack of a wide angle almost immediately.
Thank you!
I want to express my deep gratitude to the author of this site Arkady, for the fact that he created such an interesting site, which is always a pleasure to visit and read something useful about photographic equipment and photography, of course! :)
I know many other sites of similar subjects, and yes, they may be better in many ways, but photographers are not fussy people, and although I get to them (through a search), as a rule I do not stay there. Because a certain approach to photography has already been developed, and I think so for many…. I also don’t see any point in adding those sites to bookmarks in order to reread everything, since this is the same thing as starting to eat ketchup from another company, when you already know your favorite, and it’s not the point at all. Thank you very much! ;)
I subscribe to the words said above, and for the fact that squabbles and politics (in this forum are simply generally irrelevant) are cut right away. For sharing knowledge, experience and giving practical advice.
Arkady, keep this “house” in the same cleanliness and the same necessary further and longer.
All the best and don't get sick!