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Thanks to everyone who takes part)) .... Here are the interim results for an EXAMPLE OF A SET OF PHOTO EQUIPMENT FOR SHOOTING PAINTING IN HOME CONDITIONS FOR 30 thousand rubles: LENS: new from the store Nikon AF Nikkor 50 mm f / 1,8 D - 7'140 rubles ., + CAMERA: used Nikon D 7100 from a photographic equipment store with a declared technical check, and a 1 year warranty and the ability to return within 2 weeks - 15'100 rubles, + LIGHT: 2 softboxes 50 × 70 × 4 lamps each with ceramic pedestals, tripods and fuses - 4'000 rubles Aliexpress., lamps "Remezovskie" 8 pcs LED solar light LED A 60 9 W 5700K - 390 rubles × 8pcs = 3'120 rubles, TOTAL: 7'140 + 15'100 + 4'000 + 3120 = 29 360 rubles. (variants Nikon 18-55 mm f / 3,5 - 5,6 G AF - P DX - 7 ′ 120 rubles, Nikon 35 mm f / 1/8 G AF - S Nikkor - 10'690)
There are different shops. I repeat, this price for Nikon D7100 raises suspicions, with 24 megapixels you can take something from 3 ***, 5 *** lines, it is much more likely that the camera was not used professionally. For lenses, do not take a whale, if you need detail, zoom is not needed for your purposes, take a fix (you can use it).
I heard thank you
So far, for me, there is still a slightly open question with a lens: will the image of a painting 1,2 × 1,2 meters fit into the above-mentioned Nikon lenses at a distance of camera-canvas = 4,5 meters? And the fix is more optimal in terms of image quality and color rendering, do I understand correctly? And soft boxes 50 × 70 are optimal in size, considering the size of the paintings is 1,2 × 1,2 meters?
So I specially conducted an experiment with a fifty-kopeck lens and described the results above :)
The short answer is - will not fit, take a 35-ku or kit 18-55, using it in the 35mm position.
Yes, yes, everything, I understand)
Optimal softboxes are proportional to the picture, that is, in the area of 1-1.2 meters along the long side for a picture with a height of 1.2 m.
70cm will do, but lighting uniformity will be worse.
I heard thank you
Nikon d7000 or d7100 better for topic tasks?
The 7100 will definitely win in detail, and its white balance is more precise.
Thank you)
Hello, please tell me. How the lens unit is removed from Vega-3. I bought a Chinese adapter DKL-EOS. But he has a different working distance. Adjustment rings should be added if possible.
Please tell me if it will lose the quality of the photo if you shoot not 3300x6000 on the Nikon D4000, but on an average size of 4496 [3000?
It will lose formally, but it will hardly be noticeable at all.
If the lens has enough detail for 24 MP, and you do not exceed the diffraction threshold (for your camera, the real is on the order of 1 / 7,1-1 / 8,0), then you will lose detail. The question is, do you need them? If deep detailed processing is not planned, then 10-12MP is enough for most tasks. Well, for processing it is generally better to use RAW ...
Maybe someone can suggest a compact flash for Nikon DSLR? Want the smallest size and weight, but with TTL and head noise. So far, only the Godox TT350 is in mind. Need a flash to 'maybe come in handy'.
There is an SB-900 and a huge Yongnuo-968II in general, so it is not necessary to write that a small flash will be low-power, and not a universal one. What you need is a compact pusher that fits into a small bag
* with head zoom
By the way, Arkady wrote in his article that the zoom of the flash has practically no effect on the result of the picture. If you need a compact one, then Ken Rockwell praises the SB-400 very much in comparison with other "relatives":
The SB-400 is much better than today's bigger, crummier and more expensive SB-300 and SB-500. The SB300 is bigger, junkier, lower powered and takes too long to recycle from it's pathetic AAA cells, and the SB500 is too darn big and costs more than twice as much for about the same performance as the tiny SB400.
SB-600, SB-700 if with head zoom, small SB-300-400 have no zoom.
Compared to the Godox TT350, they are big.
Maybe I'm wrong, but there are no compact flash units with zoom.
Vladislav, you are so "advanced"! I am surprised that you are asking such a question.
It is impossible to know the entire range of all manufacturers of photographic equipment.
I have not seen any reviews of compact flashes other than the aforementioned Godox.
If you have nothing to write, why are the buttons pressed?
Yes, I am not angry, just expressed surprise. As I understand it, you meant "non-native" outbreaks.
I meant any :)
The Chinese have Meike 300, 310, 320 without zoom.
SB-300, SB-400 well, very primitive (in terms of functionality), with a non-rotating head, which greatly limits freedom of action. And the price for the new ones is inadequate, the same Godox costs around $ 80-85.
They also have a Yongnuo 320EX, which looks very similar to the Godox 350, but it seems to be produced only for Sony (I did not find it for other systems).
Well, the 400th has not been released for a long time, but I met on Avito at completely bargain prices. Still, the heads of the 300th and 400th turn, but only up.
The other day Godox TT350n arrived.
In general, I am satisfied with the outbreak. The dimensions are very pleasing.
Good day. I am probably writing more to get reassurance: There is a Canon 7D, I have been racing for a long time and now I bought it in excellent condition. I myself do not know what prompted me to clean the mirror. Bottom line: I took a Chinese mop for cleaning matrices, in a single package, opened it, held it, there were stains (the mop was impregnated from the factory). There were enough brains to try to remove these stains with paper for optics. at first everything was fine, then I wound a tampon out of paper and, as a result, slightly scratched the translucent mirror. thin scratches, visible at an angle. It is not visible in the viewfinder, the autofocus does not seem to go astray (though I aim at the center point). The question is how much it costs to panic, the device is new and there is no 20 thousand mileage. The third night does not sleep ...
Yes, in general, it's okay, next time be careful.
Don't make consumer items a cult.
If the scratches are not visible in the photo, you do not have to bother and
shoot: the camera should be actively used and, as it is used, on it
there will be scratches, scuffs and dust inside.
In a year or two, sell and buy yourself something else.
And the next buyer, if a picky redneck gets caught, you will make a 5% discount,
and he will be happy, no need to stay awake and worry at night.
And, this is a scratch on the lifting mirror, and this is not a dormouse with a fixed mirror, but a kenon, then don’t bother at all, it doesn’t affect anything and you can normally sell it later.
I would like to believe that nothing terrible and did not touch the autofocus area ...
Happy New Year! I wish you all prosperity and success in life and work!
HAPPY NEW YEAR! PLEASE HELP THE KETTLE TO BE FRIENDS WITH NIKONF90X MANUAL LENSES (HELIOS 81 N, KALEINAR 5N, MIR 24N WHERE TO EXPLORE AND 2) JUPITER 37A WITH ADAPTER KP \ A N.
Thank you!
Good afternoon, please tell me how you can install the Helios 81n 2/50 lens on the Fed 5 camera, are there such adapters from m42 to m39 ?? Thank you in advance.
Better not to. G81N is a lens from SLR cameras with a large flange distance. A FED is a rangefinder with a small working distance. Look for lenses for rangefinder cameras.
Even if installed, the rangefinder will most likely not work (do not focus). From rangefinder, you can try Industar-61 (sharp), Jupiter-3, 8 (bokeh).
Of course, you can compensate for the difference in the working distance between 45,5 mm and 28,8 mm with a certain ring in height for this very difference, having an external M39 thread at one end and an internal M42 at the other. Are you considering Industar-61 L / D?
I can hardly help with this answer, but ...
Version “N” - is it for Nikon's bayonet? Okay, it's technically possible to use a mirror M42 on ltm / M39 (as Mowgli said above) - and similar to how it was done in Industar-50 - but how do you solve the focusing issue? After all, the pusher of the rangefinder in (FED) will not be used, and you will have to aim along the distance scale.
Isn't it easier to get a rangefinder Jupiter-8? He's not bad. True, again, there may be problems: it's not a fact that you won't have to adjust the rangefinder in the FED for a freshly bought lens.
Well, or to put your Helios on any camera with F-mount - what is not an option?
Hello. What lens to choose for Nikon 3500 crop to get the maximum depth of field. I understand that you can close the aperture, but on the kit 18-55 the image quality will deteriorate, you can step back and frame the focal length. But the question is not this, are there any lenses that differ noticeably in depth of field from the standard kit? Either these are lenses that show excellent quality at closed apertures, or generally look towards advanced mirrorless cameras (but in my opinion, the color rendering quality and focusing speed there will be such that you don't want deep depth of field, write who switched from a DSLR to a cool mirrorless). Thank you all in advance. I'll add, I'm interested in lenses with a focal length similar to that of a whale lens.
Here we must understand that we are dealing with simple physics. Accordingly, if we shoot the same object, while maintaining the aspect ratio of the frame, we can increase the depth of field only in two ways - by covering the aperture or focus stacking. And closing the aperture, from about f / 7, we will encounter the diffraction limit, and this is inevitable on any lens.
Question to Arkady:
It would be very, very nice to finally have the ability to edit your own message on the site. I think all users of this resource would be only “for”.
Is this possible in the near future?
.
Not bad at least for a certain time - 1 hour. It is especially important when you write from a mobile device: the upper part of the text goes off the screen, the lower part is partially overlapped by a button and an inscription (the left page markup)
.
And the fact that posts cannot be edited (which is half the trouble) and the layout of the page has gone when visiting from a smartphone.
Yes, you can switch to the "mobile view", and the page markup when writing a post will be ok, but you cannot see the list of the latest posts on the site.
good evening!
I plan to purchase a Canon EOS 800D DSLR camera Kit 18-55 IS STM + tokina at-x 12-28mm f4 pro dx canon ef-s or Canon ef-s 17-55mm f 2/8 is usm /
I'm a beginner, there is only a dream for a photo. budget 120.000
Tell me, am I making the right choice?
Tokina 12-28 and canon 17-55 only complement each other, but do not replace, so there cannot be any “or” here, if you do not know what you need - take Canon 17-55.
For the rest, I would take something else for such a budget, but your choice is your choice, so I will not dissuade you. In general, the rules.
Thanks for the answer
Tell me to take you?
I chose only based on reviews and tutorials from the Internet.
I want the camera itself to be universal, the lens (and clarity and sharpness and bokeh and colorfulness), well, and the flash to fit
And so that he cooked borscht and cleaned the house. Although, stop, what borscht? Cabbage soup!
As an alternative for this money, you can consider: Canon Rp kit, Fuji X-T3 kit. Change the whale lens later when it stops satisfying.
If you are a beginner, then it makes sense not to try to put together a complete kit and run out of budget. It takes a year or two before a person realizes his real needs: what and how he removes in practice, and what remains unclaimed. You can try to take the kit "camera + 18-135". Shoot different scenes for your pleasure and analyze which focal lengths you use and which ones are not in demand. For example, frequent use of the boundary values 18 and 135 would mean that you need to expand in one direction or another. Lack of aperture at some values (that is, insufficiently "bokeh" photos where you wanted it, or those where you had to use high ISO often) will mean that you can try to cover there with fixes. Well, that is, on a crop, a 50 / 1.8 class lens is very must-have and is cheap for Canon EOS.
17-55 are very good focal points for a beginner. I would stop at this option. As Seladir said, buy it later when you know what exactly is missing.
A very good alternative - Fujifilm X-for-how-money-is enough + 18-55 or 18-135. Their optics are not cheap, but frankly they are not bad. And the picture is good right away, "trick".
In general, it’s harder to find a downright bad technique than a good one, so pick whichever you like best (I’m serious).
I crashed the front lens F92, tell me where to look for a donor or who is repairing lenses? Sincerely.
Hello! Tell me, pzhl., Do you have a video review of the Nikon D10?
What is Nikon D10?
Good day. Tell me if you look around the NIKON D500? I want yogo pribati even worse. Bagato has already read about it. I would like your dummy to be XNUMX percent. For a good time.
I worked with it, a good device, I don't like the color from it, but this is very subjective. The device is decent. Personally, I would take a full frame, I would even prefer old men like D600, D610, D750, D3s for any non-reportage shooting
uh, boyar, what are you talking about? “Not reportage shooting of old men like D600, D610, D750, D3s” - the three is more than a reportage camera.
A funny typo “If you completely fell into a tupit ...”, and no one noticed for so many years?)
Hello, dear Arkady! I am a retired collector of photographic lenses for Soviet film cameras. In 2016 I bought a Telemar-22 lens, light, M39, No. 000795 in Novosibirsk (fotoselling site). This lens has 6 diaphragm lipsticks made of yellow metal (apparently made of brass). At that time, I did not attach much importance to this, and recently I bought Telemar-22, light, M39, on the PhotoSSSR website (Moscow), too, but it has 12 blackened diaphragm lipsticks, No. 003694 (issue 1965-information on PhotoSSSR). Is it possible to find out the year of manufacture of Telemar-22 at the Krasnogorsk Mechanical Plant and why a lens with 6 aperture blades made of brass was produced (perhaps it was a defective lens). Perhaps someone will report on my unique Telemar-22. Thank you in advance. Yours faithfully, Oleg Vasilievich is a pensioner from the Ural city of Snezhinsk.
Dear Oleg Vasilievich,
Most likely your first Telemar 22 was repaired with the replacement of the entire diaphragm block. And the donor was a lens made by Arsenal (Ukraine).
It was these six-blade yellow metal diaphragms that were characteristic of the products of this plant at the time.
For the years of release of this lens, I advise you to contact the KMZ memorial website.
E-mail webmaster@zenitcamera.com
Hello. Please help with advice. I am self-taught, you can say a complete "kettle", so do not judge strictly, I photograph kittens, a Nikon D3100 camera, a Nikon DX AF-S 18-55 mm f3,5-5,6G lens. The lens has served, I am looking for a replacement. I am considering the option YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N). The distance between me and the subject of the photo session is about 50-75 cm, kittens are almost always in motion, the light is bad. I shoot in the manual setting ICO 800 f5-5,6 I need a high-aperture lens with fast focusing and stabilizer, as if it fits in parameters, but one thing confuses me, I read that at a focal length of 50 mm, it will be 75. Now I took a Nikon lens from my friends 18-105mm f3,5-5,6G ED, to be honest I don't see much difference with my old lens. Thanks in advance for the advice !!!
If you are looking at a “fifty kopeck piece”, take a better used Nikon 50 f / 1.8G
... and add lights. In low light, your camera will not focus well and quickly
>> I read that with a focal length of 50 mm, it will be 75
You don't have to bother with recounting. This 50mm lens will give you the same angle of view as your 18-55 lens set to 50. And then see if it's right for you or not.
I often photograph cats for overexposure, and from experience the best thing you can do is add flash. A flash aimed at the ceiling will not harm or stress the animals (maximum they are slightly surprised, like “what was that now?” And quickly get used to it).
But the detailing of the images, the transfer of texture and color of the coat are many times more pleasant.
Here is an example of a photo taken with a Canon EF 50mm f / 1.8 open with a cheap flash YONGNUO YN-468 II. The depth of field is shallow - with the flash, you can afford to cover the aperture to f / 3-4.
Many thanks to everyone for the advice! Forgive me, I will have the nerve to ask for more help, what kind of flash is better to take for my Nikona d3100 ??? Thanks.
Better Nikon. SB-700 is the best option.
Thank you so much!!!
The flash can be manual, you can even Chinese, something like Meike mk-930, it is much cheaper than the native one, but for your tasks the functionality is heady.
Thanks for the help!
Somehow not very much.
They rightly said that you need additional light, and you can take the 18-55 lens again, it will give excellent sharpness, and is cheap.
Arkady, good day! My acquaintances are giving Sonya a900 into my good hands. What can you say about this camera, except that the young one was not young? Unfortunately, I didn't find anything on the site here. Thank you in advance))) Best regards, Mikhail Weingolts.
Good camera, what can I say about it?
A moment of esotericism.
As for the Sony A850 / A900, there were discussions at one time and in the photo as well.
Photos from these cameras hung for a long time on a special page of Sony's website for the Japanese market.
In the photo ru there were people who switched Nikon D700 to Sony a850 / a900 only because of the successful color profile of these cameras.
There were people claiming that the color from these two cameras is much more pleasant than from the mythical (due to the starting price) Nikon D3X, and the sensors seem to be similar or even the same. There were people claiming that the matrix on the a850 / a900 turned out even better than on the D3X.
Comparison with no less legendary among fans of “color” cameras Canon 1Ds mk2, Canon 1Ds mk3, Fuji S3Pro, Fuji S5Pro, Sigma SD14-SD15, Sigma SD1 Merrill, Kodak DCS Pro SLR / N (C), I unfortunately have not read saw in passing. In the photo ru there are collectors who own all the listed cameras including Sony a850 / a900. You are very lucky to get your camera in good condition with low mileage. A850 / A900 every year becomes less and less in good condition.
Hello. Tell me plz. - there is a Sigma AF 50-200mm F4.0-5.6 DC OS HSM lens, the seller of which claims that it is under Nikon, but from the photo of the bayonet I think not. Maybe I'm still wrong?
This is 100% not Nikon F. This is Canon EF
In general, this is sony A, but definitely not Nikon, yes :)
This is Sony A. Canon has one contact longer than the others.
I was wrong, sorry
Friends!
There are two very favorite s5 pro (with low mileage .. but in one there is something with a mirror and in the other there are errors on some diaphragms). Who to contact regarding repairs in Moscow?
Thank you in advance;)
Thank you!
On the photo_ru he is recommended as a specialist in old Fujs and partly Kodak.
But you have to be more careful with him and then he can break the prices for his services, because there are few alternatives to him.
*
Is it possible in more detail what your trouble is with your heaps?
Or if you want to write here in the camera branch, so as not to get lost:
https://radojuva.com/2012/05/obzor-fujifilm-finepix-s5-pro/
I love taking pictures of dragonflies / spiders / bugs, but sometimes there is not enough light and in this case I use a f / in triop. I tried to shoot on the machine, and in the manual, I covered the flash screen with isolon within reason, directed it up and shot through the reflector - there was no desired. It turns out some kind of crap, unnecessary. Can someone tell me what my mistake is or what to do with the camera and flash settings. I would be very grateful for your advice.
I’m glad to see you, why didn’t you write with a camera?
Nikon d5100.
Hello. I'll postpone the question here. Tell me what kind of hood comes with the Sigma Zoom DC 18-200mm 1: 3.5-6.3 II HSM OS lens? Like the older MACRO model - LH676-01, and are there any analogs to fit correctly (without screwing into the thread for the light filter)?
Quote from the review “Recently Arkady posted a note that caused a lot of responses about the necessary and sufficient number of lenses to solve most photo problems” - poke a link to the note plz, if this is not an article - One lens to rule the world