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Good afternoon, please tell me what is better to choose:
Nikon D3100 body
Nikon D3200 body
Nikon D5100 body
Price up to 13000 rubles
Nikon D3300 body
Nikon D3400 body
Nikon D5200 body
Nikon D5300 body
Nikon D7000 body
Price from 16000 to 20000 rubles
+ lens (which one?)
The camera is bought mainly for shooting goods in an internet store and social networks (leather goods: backpacks, bags, belts, wallets).
Which camera from the above is better to buy for photographing my products, is it worth overpaying several thousand for cameras from the second list?
What lens to buy for high-quality shooting of leather goods?
What else do you need to take high-quality photos of catalog products?
Any camera is enough, not necessarily expensive. Plus a complete zoom lens. BUT! An external flash is required. Better two. More drains, umbrellas, etc.
* racks.
I will support B.R.P., good light is much more important. Well, the tripod is normal, so as not to tip over from a sneeze.
Plus the above.
Around the world - two sets from Godox - folding softboxes 40x40 cm with honeycomb and S-Type adapter - you can hang any Bowens mount attachments if needed. There are two racks for them, and better not the cheapest. Formally, a simple stand will withstand a flash with a softbox even on the street in calm weather, in reality - it falls from careless movement even in a room. Especially if you want to try a harder bait.
Two flashes of the Godox TT600 type, two (eventually four will be possible) sets of Eneloop 4xАА rechargeable batteries, a radio synchronizer for the camera, so as not to run to the flashes. It is possible without a synchronizer, but manual flashes, which are the cheapest, are not worth taking - the price difference is insignificant. Unless you find a couple of puffs cheaply.
The lens does not matter, if you are shooting a subject, you will cover yourself until 8-11 in order to properly shoot an object lying at an angle, so a native whale is quite suitable. Pros who try to shoot the subject with a manual tilt-shift, but you are very far from that.
The light of even one flash taken out from the camera solves much more than ANY expensive lens.
Still (for the light) you can take a couple of 5-in-1 reflectors, one larger, one smaller. And a remote control for pressing the shutter button. Because once you fix the camera on a tripod, you will begin to consistently connect light sources, play with glare, change the flash power, try filters, shade somewhere, add somewhere and you will never have enough free hands.
Well, for a change, read, for example, 8020photo dot com - uncle has not written for a long time, but gives very valuable advice on working with subject photography.
Wow.
Thank you, Roman. The site is awesome according to the link: the author is very reckless and savvy about the light says-to share. And, in general, it urges me to think as a reader.
shares * of course :)
Thank you all for your advice!
Nikon D7000 ... but it has not been released for a long time ... therefore either used or already ff
Nikon D7000, it has high-speed sync and a good flash with a soft box, an 18-105 DX lens is enough, it often comes with the D7000, and also a normal tripod.
And you will be happy)
hello, I am interested in the Rubin-2 lens. I can not find any normal information about this model anywhere. And if you have an article, then just discard the link please, and if not, just tell me if this lens is suitable for Kiev 15 and how good is it?
Thanks for earlier, it is very interesting to read your articles)))
Well, the model is because it is very rare and was not mass-produced, so there is nothing anywhere.
Rubin-2 Automatic will do. https://eugigufo.net/files/photovideo/lens/rubin2avtomat.pdf
I need the 7Artisans 35mm F0.95 lens,
but I can't find in our area, can you offer me more info?
It's new lens, not available now in stock. Check it here
Hello, friends!
I got such a copy of Jupiter-9 1: 2, 8,5 cm, manufactured by KMZ, I don’t know what year, serial number No. 000102
I have been using lenses of past eras for a long time, but I have not seen such a mount .. maybe someone will tell you from experts?
A very rare cinematic modification. Can you take a picture to see the enlightenment?
I sent it below, accidentally not as a continuation of the branch, but as a separate comment
Hello again, dear experts!
I was puzzled by the selection of a small fifty dollars for the Fuji X-M1. It will be used mainly for street, genre, street portrait, possibly cityscape. That is, for all kinds of non-commercial artistic perversions. So far, I use Helios-44M for these purposes, but it is too big, I want something smaller.
I've read reviews, but I would like to hear your opinion on these lenses:
- Industar-22
- Industar-26m
- Industar-50 (rangefinder)
- Industar-61 l / d
- Jupiter-8 (white)
- Jupiter-8 (black)
In particular, I am interested in 1) ease of use - for example, about Industarov-26 and 61, I am confused by the location of the focusing ring; 2) sharpness in the center (the edges worry less, especially since they will still be cut off on the crop); 3) individual, “vintage” drawing.
I think I will shoot mostly in b / w, but not 100%.
So far, the soul is leaning towards I-22 and Ju-8 (white). I would be grateful for your opinion.
Try Minolta 45mm f2
Yes please
Hello everyone, a question to those in the know, which is better to take on crop, Nikon Nikkor 17-55mm f / 2,8G, or sacrifice aperture (since I have an external flash) to take with a stub and newer Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 4G ED, I understand that it will be too narrow. Also, 24-120 on a second-hand market is in fact cheaper than 5-6 hryvnias, and you can find a rolling stock. I photograph mostly reportage (family holidays, walks, etc.). Thanks in advance for your advice =)
The new Nikkor 17-55mm f / 2,8 will cost inadequately expensive, in a used one it costs the same as Nikon 28-70 / 2.8 or as 2-piece Sigma 24-70 / 2.8 EX DG (Macro).
Sigma 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM with stub or alternatively Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX are very inexpensive.
Test the autofocus function on your camera before purchasing.
Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC is also quite good, in some ways I even liked it more than Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS
Thanks for the advice, I really thought I would take my own, because with third-party flash, then the external flash does not work adequately, then with the focus of the problem (back / front) and it does not matter new or used, I took Sigma 17-50 from a friend, I'm afraid to accidentally damage the focusing ring , since it is constantly moving and I constantly touch it with my fingers, but I still don't understand what the difference is with or without a stub, plus it constantly eats the battery. Well, let's think
Hello. I have a nikon d5100 camera and a kit lens. I want to change the lens so that both a blurry background and a high-quality photo. Please advise which one is better to take
It's useless to change. Better to buy. For “blurred background” in priority order Nikkor 85 1.8, 50 1.8, 35 1.8 or analogs from other manufacturers for Nikon F mount
Why is it useless? The fotik himself is not suitable?
Good fotik. The whale zoom can also come in handy. Unless you replace it with 17-55 2,8 or at least Sigma \ Tamron 17-50, 17-70.
In the sense that you will most likely not be able to change your standard lens. Who needs it? But to buy additional others - yes.
I'm not going to sell, really who will buy it)) I just want to take the norms of the lens and take pictures)
So the question arose, which lens to buy, so that both blur and clarity are good.
I am new to this business. But I want to learn how to take pictures for myself, for the soul.
The stock lens is quite good. Focus less on technique, learn more about light and composition. For example, background blur depends not only on the lens, but also on the size of the sensor and on the distance from the camera to the subject, and from the subject to the background.
Take more pictures, see other people's pictures, ask yourself questions like: “What exactly do I like / dislike here, why, how is it filmed?” When you want to shoot something, ask yourself the questions again: “What exactly is interesting about this object / scene? the object itself, an unusual angle, an unusual light, an interesting contrast? What camera / lens settings will convey what I see? "
Analyze your shots: what worked, what didn't work and why.
As for the technique, the question is: what was it filmed for?
On a smartphone?
The comment was sewn in the wrong place. No, this is not a smartphone. Filmed through glass, by the way
Aperture 2.0 or smaller (lighter). Nikon F mount, if you are a beginner - with others it is better then. The rest is for taste, color, wallet)
You wrote in the first post “I want to change the lens”. As you wrote, so you answered.
To replace is, as I understand it, to sell. The whale zoom is very cheap and the entire secondary housing is littered with them, so it's easier to keep it for yourself, it may come in handy.
Any telephoto lens blurs the background. If you don't have funds for 55-200, you can buy some sort of manual Vivitar. By the way, I recommend a manual old lens. If you want the blur to be zero, any fast prime telephoto lens, starting from 50mm f / 1.8.
Most importantly, read here the articles about compatibility with your camera. Otherwise, confusion will surely come out.
No, not a smartphone.
Hello everyone 👋
Please help me in the room to take pictures, in poor lighting, for clear shooting of children, what kind of aperture needs to be set. thanks in advance
The flash must be used, preferably an external one.
No flash while you can do it?
Your camera has a built in. But it is difficult to take beautiful photos with it, although it will perform the lighting function well.
The article about shooting with beautiful bokeh helped a lot. Thank you 🤝 👍
Hello. I want to choose a lens. Carcass d7000. For hunting birds.
NIKON ED AF-S VR NIKKOR 70-300mm 1: 4,5-5,6 G
Sigma DG 70-300mm 4-5.6
Tamron Sp A005 70-300mm 1: 4-5.6 VС
Native, in principle, is better or, so to speak, more predictable. But 300mm. may not be enough, depending on which birds to shoot)
The one that is sharper in the open. The birds are small, nimble, shutter speeds from 1/800 and shorter, which means that the ISO will have to be bullied. And if it is also cloudy, then even stronger
Hello. Please help with advice. Is the adapter ring M42 - 4/3 suitable for connecting the Industar 96U-1 lens to the Olympus E-400 camera? Thanks.
It will not work, because the adapter ring M42-4 / 3 is intended for lenses designed for a SLR camera (with a focal length of 45,5 mm).
Your Industar-96U is designed for a photographic enlarger, it has a M39 mounting thread and a small flange distance of 28,8 mm.
I advise you to look for an adapter ring M39-4 / 3 for lenses from rangefinder cameras.
I would like to add that the old Olympus E-400 (still SLR) has a focal distance of 38,67 mm, so lenses for rangefinder cameras will not give infinity.
Therefore, they can only be used for macro photography.
1. Arkady is very grateful for the answers, site, VK and instu. And to everyone who answers too
2. Cool weather and freezing temperatures came. Since I take photographs on the street, is it worth putting the camera and lenses in the warmth and defrosting every day?
Or leave in a cold place such as with silica gel
Good day, tell me, is this Sony DT 6400-55mm Sam f / 300-4.5 lens suitable for the SONY A5.6? Or do you need an adapter? And does it make sense to buy an adapter? PS lens costs 120 euros. Thanks.
Will not work. This one is for mount A. You need for mount E, for example: https://hotline.ua/av-obektivy/sony-sal-55210-dt-55-210mm-f45-63/ or https://hotline.ua/av-obektivy/sony-sel70350g-70-350-mm-f45-63-g-oss/
If you find an inexpensive native Sony LA-EA1 adapter, then you can take it. But it's easier to immediately look for the version for mirrorless in the face 55-210mm f / 4.5-6.3 OSS.
Good day to all. I wanted to get wide and I am facing the choice of Tokina sd 11-16 f 2.8 (if) DX Lens for Nikon or Tokina 12-24mm F4 II Aspherical AT-X124 PRO DX II. Secondary prices are about the same. What's the best fit for the D7000?
Good afternoon! I use a nikon d5000 camera and a griffon ss-160 flash. For some reason, sometimes with the same camera settings, there is a strong flash effect, and sometimes not. I attach a photo, in both cases the external flash fired, the camera settings are the same, but the effect is different. Why is that? And how can you always get the most lit version?
And what is the flash mode? (TTL or manual)
TTL
There are Griffons discussions online. They write that the equipment is of poor quality, the flash gives out a different level of illumination every time.
then no surprise. turn on manual power control.
Hello, please share, who has nikon inspection and adjustment for nikon d600, I know what is in nature for D600, but the links are not active or overwritten, who may have had time to download? Please do not send it to nikonHackers, there is no link to update for nikon d600, thanks in advance) we really need to fix the back focus ...
in the archive widely known in narrow circles, there are no programs for six hundred, I just looked.
Hello. Nikon d 7000, is it really possible to start commercial photo shoots with it?
yes, quite, optics decide much more, and the d7000 is a good camera in itself
Thank you
Yes, a good Camera, the most affordable with high-speed sync, and supports screwdriver glasses. Itself exactly a year and a half ago, when I decided to return to the profession after an 18-year break, I took the D7000. All my good quality film lenses from the old days came up to it. In the summer I bought another 17-55 / 2.8 for it, I could not get enough of it ... until I bought the D750 and D500 this fall. But that is another story.
Now I will sell my D7000 - an excellent camera for amateurs and professionals on a budget or starting out.
Today (like a year and a half ago) there are more affordable digital SLR cameras from Nikon with high-speed sync FP, not to mention other manufacturers.
Well, D90 and below for starting a commercial activity (or returning to it, as in my case), I did not consider, D300s or D700 are either unreasonably expensive, but for the most part a pig in a poke with serious runs from under the professionals. And the D7000 can still be found from amateurs with minimum mileage for reasonable money.
I did not consider other manufacturers, since the optics were Nikon's.
Maybe you had something else in mind by available to start a professional activity? I mean price / quality.
The D300 is now inexpensive and was bought by many amateurs. You can dig out a completely adequate specimen
No, I didn’t mean q90 and below, because they lack FP. They meant, of course, d300, 300s, and yes, there are still (!) A bunch of them in adequate condition and cheaper than d7000.
There is, of course, also the d200 with good color, which, however, today is already more difficult to use in commercial activities, other cameras, including the d700, are already more expensive, although better.
The D90 FP is present. Another thing is that the maximum shutter speed in this camera is 1/4000 s.
I meant "minimal".
D80, by the way, too.
Googled-caught, well done.
Nevertheless, now, as well as a year and a half ago, it is rather imprudent to consider d90, like d80, to engage in commercial activities (and this basically means “bombing” weddings, unless otherwise indicated).
I didn't google, I knew. Enough already?
As for commerce, Arkady sometimes shoots weddings at D90. He recently made a video review of this camera in addition to his long-standing review. And in one of his articles, he voiced his different thoughts, including that the client does not distinguish on which camera a commercial shot was made, does not see the difference between a full frame and a crop.
I would have known - indicated in one message, and did not add about d80 after a few minutes, so that's enough yes.
I do not know why Arkady is now shooting weddings, but it is a fact that for commerce today d90 is a non-optimal choice. D300 is both better and more reliable.
This means "the best of the maximum available", of course.
I was sure about the D90, but I decided to clarify about the D80. No conspiracy theories and no desire to catch someone.
I will pretend to believe, so as not to continue the squabble out of the blue.
Good day, as a matter of fact, separate the assets of the asset.
MTF charts can be roughly estimated. And so that in lin / mm - no way, except to climb through the reviews. On https://www.opticallimits.com/ like it was so infa
Many thanks to Arkady for the site and the answers. And to everyone who answers, too.
If it's not difficult, tell me pliz, some kind of manual lens for 100-135 / 2,8-3,5 with an interesting pattern for Nikon, except for Nikonovsky
What is “interesting drawing” in your understanding? 135-ok 2,8 and 3,5 thousand with approximately the same pattern due to the same optical scheme with a large spread in price. From cheap - Jupiters 37A and 11. Take those with multi-coating - there the contrast will be better and catch fewer hares.
For 100-cam, the picture is about the same.
Sharp and predictable - Jupiter 37/11. Not very high-quality optically, but "with character" on ff - Tair-11. Here - Pentacon 135 / 2.8. I do not recommend the rest for various reasons :)
+ Kaleinar 5N 100mm 2,8.
Hello, Arkady! Thank you for your work on the site - there is a lot of useful information. From your review of the nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8g if-ed af-s dx nikkor lens, I realized that you should use a tripod with such a lens, since the lens supposedly lacks an internal stabilizer. Or am I wrong and can it be used for handheld shooting? I am thinking of purchasing such a zoom for my Nikon D7100. I would be grateful for a reply to an e-mail.
https://radojuva.com/2012/01/how-to-make-photo-by-hand/
Stabilizers in lenses and sensors appeared 25 years ago, and handheld shooting with lenses that are even less speedy than 2.8 have been used for more than a century.
hello, can anyone tell me what kind of mount in the photo?
Similar to Contax / Yashika
Today I'm going to buy a lens for Nikon. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4G, like this. The lens will be ok, I'm a beginner photographer, I want to learn
Will the lens be normal?
Normal.
Hello! Please tell me about the autofocusing camera Nikon D750. In Mode M, autofocus stopped working: during operation, some letters flew out on the screen and after that, one point at a time, the camera does not focus, only in manual mode. I changed the lenses, moved them to another camera. Can you please tell me what can be checked in the settings? thanks
Good for all ! Very sensible site, great respect to the one who leads. Please tell me: You need to choose a camera (intuitively, according to what you read, I like Nikon cameras) for shooting painted pictures at home (a room with a maximum camera-canvas distance of 5 meters). Excellent quality is required for an Internet resource in the United States for potential gallery owners and collectors. Thanks in advance.
I will add: ... paintings measuring 1.2 mx 1,2 m
budget?
Budget: I would like to keep within 20 rubles, ... can be used
Small budget. For excellent quality, you also need an excellent lens and, possibly, additional lighting. Problem.
Nikon d7000 but this is with a kit lens, no light and a tripod.
If there are more than a dozen paintings a day, get a medium format film camera, good tripod and light. For delivery - film, development, scanning.
I think that SF is superfluous here + fiddling with film, developing, scanning. It seems that a person needs the shortest path to get the result.
Development and scanning only in a good Laba, otherwise money is down the drain.
"Budget: I would like to keep within 20 rubles, ... you can use it"
Sound the list, preferably with an AF lens included :)
So, for example, a new lens in the Nikon AF Nikkor 50 f / 1,8 D store - 7'990 rubles, used cameras Nikon D7000 - 8'790 rubles, D7100 - 11'990 rubles. I looked at Arcadia's reviews on these models and the sites recommended by them where they are compared and realized that the D7100 is better. + tripod 1'000 rubles. I haven’t yet understood what to look for with light ... I realized that this is the most important thing in my case, and we need constant light sources, but I haven’t figured out the spectra and types of lamps yet ...
you can look at a macro lens for your purposes. autofocus is optional and resolution will be good. Nikon has 40mm, in the variant you can fit in, I think. fotik is not important, you can watch 5xxx.
“Nikon D7000 - 8'790 rubles, D7100 - 11'990 rubles” - suspiciously inexpensive, cameras may not be in the best condition. Light nuance - you need to prevent the appearance of glare, especially if you have an "oil" painting.
Yes, the prices are really strange.
The D7000 in very good condition with a range of up to 50 thousand shots should cost 15-16 thousand rubles, and the D7100 with the same mileage of 20-25 thousand rubles.
The scam is felt.
It does not feel, but directly shouts at the top of its voice "look people, I am a scam."
However, there are those who will not even hear these calls.
But there are such announcements) Mileage, though for 100k, or even more judging by the appearance
In terms of light - a couple of softboxes for four lamps, but you need 5600K lamps, luminescent and thoroughly torment yourself with the placement ... Well, or try a flash somewhere in the wall-ceiling, but it's not easy there either. The room should have a lot of white or at least light gray for even filling.
A tripod and light are an order of magnitude more important, for the camera - almost any with almost any fix, covered to 5.6-8.
Will this light work?
Considering the price, I would try one. Why a bear is good - you can take a picture of it, for example, in the sunlight, and then, in the light of such a lamp, calculate the delta. If the delta is minimal, then the light is good. A bear is more suitable and more convenient for these purposes than bothering with a spectrophotometer. And for you, the correct color rendering is a matter of principle.
And such soft boxes, do I understand correctly? Is 2 pieces on the sides of the painting 1,2 × 1,2 enough?
The size of softboxes must be selected according to the size of the paintings
And in my opinion, it is still easier to use flashes, and not lamps, to reshoot pictures. At a fixed wattage, they will give reasonably the same color temperature.
If the flashes have a modeling light - approx. Otherwise, there will be a lot of fuss while putting out the light. This is much easier with constant light. Modeling light flashes are expensive studio solutions.
Putting on the light is a matter of experience, the first 5 times, you have to tinker, then it will be easier.
Would suggest using 'on-camera' flashes Yongnuo-560IV (III)
There is an opinion that fluorescent lamps are less durable even with the degradation of the light characteristics of the spectrum in favor of green ...
Well, the wife of vidosiki has been writing on this softbox for the third year already. But I looked, during this time, LED ones appeared. They are preferable, but you need to look specifically with a temperature of 5400-5600. Usually in everyday life 2700 are used - cold light and 4100 neutral, 6500 cold. And all professional lighting equipment is adjusted to the temperature of the solar corona - this is 5400-5600, so it will be easier. Well, such lamps will have a special double phosphor or some cool diode characteristics. More expensive, of course, but the spectrum is better.
Taking pictures of my wife's pictures, try to describe your experience. The camera will not play a decisive role here, I would focus on the lens and shooting / processing conditions. Well, that is, for publishing on the Internet, any camera, say, 12MP and higher will be enough. And in order to capture all the micro-nuances, you can stare at the full frame, and preferably from the functions of increasing the image resolution by shifting the matrix.
I have this Canon 550D + Canon 50 1.8 STM. In general, I recommend a good fix to minimize distortion and other distortion. Most likely, a 50mm focal length will be a bit cramped for shooting pictures of this format with a designated space. So 35mm is probably more optimal.
Further, the camera is of course on a tripod. I use an on-camera flash, which I direct at the ceiling at an angle (here it is important that the ceiling and preferably the walls are white).
When developing RAW, I use distortion correction, adjust exposure and contrast so that the highlights / shadows are not distorted, plus WB correction if necessary.
At the end, there is processing in Photoshop, where I use the relatively new Perspective Crop Tool, which allows me to eliminate distortions due to the insufficiently accurate perpendicular position of the camera relative to the picture. So you can restore the geometry of the canvas without cutting off pieces - in a few clicks at the exit rectangle.
I'll try to describe *
Thank you, Seladir, but the light is still a question ... do you really have enough “on-camera” flash?
Well, yes, you advised the deputy, but I read Arkady and, if I understood correctly, there are reasons in my case to make a choice in favor of fixing ... with mm yes, the question is: 35 or 55?
Well, I decided to experiment with a fifty-kopeck lens and a tape measure.
1.2m of conventional canvas + a small margin for framing fits into the frame on the short side only if the camera is about 4.5m away. But you still need to accommodate the tripod and you behind the camera :)
So 35mm focal length is the only possible of these two options.
The flash, to be honest, is not enough - it usually fires at its maximum power, while the ISO is automatically set to 400. Here you also need to take into account that I cover the aperture to 5.6 in order to maximize sharpness from my lens. I have a very simple YONGNUO YN-468 II, it would be easier with something more powerful. Of course, ideally I would like to put two tall softboxes in front of the canvas, this would give more correct lighting. But for me personally, there is no place for them at home, and it's all worth it. Lamps need high quality to give the correct spectrum. Cheap ones sin with such a "piecewise" spectrum, so that the output seems to be white as a sum, but in fact the color rendering will be monstrously distorted, some colors will be brighter or darker relative to each other than in reality.
Lushnikov's bears are available, you can take pictures with them and then adjust the colors in something like 3D Lut Creator
I want to add details about the purchase. Considering the light / tripod costs, you can try to get by with the kit lens 18-55 and only use it in the 35mm position. Canon has a decent 18-55 starting with the first model with a stabilizer, that is, 18-55 3.5-5.6 IS. In 35mm position they will show their best side with a minimum of distortion. In the case of Canon, I would focus on cameras of the 500D level and above. I won't tell you about Nikon. The author of the site uses Nikon, so intuitively you can lean towards this brand, just an imprint of consciousness is imposed. But in fact, for your purposes, it makes no sense to narrow the choice to one manufacturer.
I will add that shooting is more convenient, and in general it is better to conduct it in LiveView - contrast focusing on old SLR cameras, although clumsy, is still guaranteed to be accurate. To be sure, I take a few pictures.
IS STM is completely new.