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There is very little information on the Russian-language network about the Nikon 105mm F1.4E ED AF-S Nikkor
I could not find a clear comparison of this new item with other fixes F1.4 (50,85,135 (2, 2,8))
I need a portrait portrait (half a ruble 1,4 is already there) for school and family art photographs in the open air. Just started to rush between 85 and 135, as the ruble collapsed and 105 appeared))) I have Nikon d700 and d750.
With lenses, I want to understand the difference in space compression, distance from the model and focusing speed.
It will be most useful to get such a review from you🙏🤗
Question (already asked somewhere, oh I will repeat).
I put M39 Helios on Canon 5DM2 through a ring + adapter. Everything is gorgeous, great.
But infinity is lost. Why? Isn't it because of the ringlet whether the mm pair is not enough?
I was thinking about buying an M39 adapter, but it's thicker, can it be even worse with it?
About materiel (to the question of working segments) och. weak, that is, I understand that it can affect focus, and that's all.
Moreover, focusing remains at a fairly large distance, 20 meters you can certainly get a sharp picture in focus.
What can be done in this situation without changing the lens.
Ooh ho
nothing will come of it. working distance of M39 optics only for UPC.
Here the sharpness is up to 20 meters, it does not look like a rangefinder option, there would be a sharpness up to 2 meters.
M39 Helios is not a rangefinder ...
If this M39 Helios is a “mirror” version, for example, from Zenit-3m, then it makes sense to look for a thinner adapter.
Or maybe the problem is not in the adapter. Sometimes due to a factory defect, there is a small undershoot to infinity, just up to 20-30m. Observed such jambs on helios 81. Here you need to adjust already on the lens itself.
Thank! In principle, I like the lens so much, the picture with Canon is fabulous, simply and sharp, and the drawing .. in general, I'm afraid to interfere in this delicate matter, even to attract specialists. Let it be) There is 81H, that's just no problem, though the camera is also different.
Arkady, hello!
Please tell me what kind of animal is the stabilizer? How and why? What you can already read and ask who you can, I just can't find an intelligible answer!
https://radojuva.com/2010/11/vr-vibration-reduce/
Good afternoon, Dear Arkady!
I am a reader of your blog about cameras and photography, subscribed to your articles.
I have been fond of photography for many years, but most likely I am an amateur who takes pictures according to the principle of point and click.
The devices are mostly Nikon.
I would like to ask you to make a review of the SONY NEX7 camera, as I would like to buy it. Yes, of course, the device is not new, but still I like it due to its compactness.
I already had a NEX5 and an Olympus Pen E-PL1.
Hello Arkady!
Have you had any problems with reading memory cards on the nikon d700? The camera offers to format the card, but does not format it. For display even off state. I formatted the cards to d70, after which they began to be read at 700 ke, but after shooting a dozen frames, the problem returned.
Hello, olx came across an interesting film device - Canon DC 802, but Google stubbornly does not want to find any information about this camera: Perhaps you have heard about it or can suggest where to look for information. Thanks :)
Oh sorry, there is Canon CD 802
Link to olx pliz.
And although I did. This is not a Canon, this is a fixed-focus soap dish made of flexible plastic, china prom. In the 90s I was holding a similar “Nikon”. Spit and forget.
Hello. I have a Fujifilm XT-3 camera with a whale lens. I would like to buy an inexpensive portrait portrait. There are three variants in mind, KamLan 50mm F1.1 II, VILTROX 85mm 1,8 II XF and Zenitar 50 / f1.2. Please advise which one to choose from the three, or maybe there are other options. Thank.
A 50mm crop will clearly be more comfortable and versatile than an 85mm.
Camlan is more expensive than Zenitar 50 / 1.2s. I don't see a big difference between them, but I like the picture from Zenitar more subjectively, especially with APS-H.
If you choose Zenitar, take the Canon version, not Nikon. In the Nikon version, the rear lens is partially shielded by the bayonet mount, which is not good.
There are many examples from Zenitara on this site in my old review. On Kamlan, his admirer K.Ya. the review was never written, unfortunately.
If the portrait photographer is tasked with strongly tearing the person to be portrayed from the background, then 85 mm / 1,8 will cope with this task much better than 50 mm / 1,1
and 200 1.8 is even better :)
In fact, this is a full-frame 75 / 1,5 grip, about the same as the 85 / 1.8 on a full frame
Yes, close to 85 1.8 in full frame. At the same time, 85 1.8 in full frame is usually a budget option.
That's the whole $ 1500 Fuji crop
All good things are expensive and will cost even more.
Hello, I want to buy this lens on Nikon d90, it has focal lengths, constant aperture f4, fast and tenacious af, especially in comparison with the whale 18-105, and the price for a couple of 9-11 thousand UAH, for indoor shooting I have an external flash ... I also understand that it will be too narrow on the crop, but it suits me. I photograph my two daughters (reportage of matinees in the kindergarten, walks and all that). So the question for knowledgeable people is whether it is worth buying it for the old man d90? I also plan to buy a fix 85 1.8d. Well, I'm thinking of taking an old man ff d700 or a new crop d7100 someday (the budget is not like a rubber one). I would be very grateful to everyone for the advice, I choose only my own optics.
in any case, D700 should not be taken, the camera has been removed from support and it is no longer possible to buy new shutters.
The lens I am looking after is a nikon 24-120 f1: 4g VR
Taking the D700 now is a risky thing, since in excellent condition it will cost a lot, and a tired one may accidentally die, and repairs will fly out in a good amount, if parts are found at all.
Better to take a closer look at the D600 / 610 if you really want an FX camera, there are a lot of them on the market now in excellent or almost new condition for an adequate price.
Or you can take the D7100, it has a good autofocus, tenacious, this is very important for shooting children, and the raw'ki of the D7100 are "rubber", here the D90 is out of competition.
Thanks for the advice, I'll keep in mind =)
Good day. I have been shooting for a long time and (I try) wisely, but the idea came up to take a pampering film apparatus. And I realized that I do not understand how film cameras fundamentally differ (apart from the film inserted in them). According to Wikipedia, the Nikon F100 is two heads higher than the F75. At the same time, there is no talk of shutter mileage.
A more specific question: what is the difference between the F100 and F65 in their interaction, for example, with the 80-200 / 2.8 of the first version? And with the sb800 flash? And with third-party optics (with Sigma)?
Thank you
F100 - pro. 65, 75 - amateur. F100 your 80-200 2,8 will turn faster, for example.
The cameras you specified differ in their exposure and focusing systems. The older the model, the better and more correctly it fulfills these functions in automatic mode. This does not mean that the pictures will be bad on the F65, just in difficult cases there may be misses. F100 and F65 are compatible with 80-200 and SB-800. As for third-party optics, firstly, it is different, and secondly, you need to look at it individually. Compatibility with "native" lenses is described in their instructions, which can be easily found on the Internet.
buy F4
Depending on where to buy - from the Japanese on ebay, the F5 is inexpensive. At flea markets (for example, on Avito （RF） only cameras cost humane money - F65 / F75 / F80). F100 is sometimes asked as for F4 / F5. There are a lot of crammed cameras.
The problem of amateur cameras - in order not to go broke on rare 2CR5 batteries and to use finger-type batteries, you must immediately take a camera with a battery grip under finger-type batteries （if any）. Better autonomy and replaceability. And such a moment, many film cameras have a plastic case, and hence one unobvious problem - the breakability of the back cover latch. Both Nikon and Canon have it. The consequences are obvious - the lid will not close and the film will be exposed. And still such a moment - due to the fact that people have heard a lot about inexpensive Nikon screwdriver lenses and therefore it became more difficult to find an F80 or F75 / F65 / F90x / F100 for adequate money with a battery handle this year. I already thought I would have to buy an F4 / F5, but here I came across an inexpensive Canon EOS 50E. I started rummaging through Avito and realized that Canon film is less popular than Nikon. And you can buy the EOS50e / EOS55 with a battery grip for an inexpensive way. Enough to play around. The downside is the plastic case and the same latch. Then the cheap EOS5 and EOS3 (with an AF module from EOS1V) turned up.
As a result, I ended up with a 3-ka with a battery pack, bought an inexpensive Sigma 24-70 / 2.8EX DG Macro and a Tokina 28-80 / 2.8 to the existing Tokina 28-70 / 2.6-2.8. All lenses are tested on Units, they get it right, the exposure does not lie. But the Weight of a 3 with a butblock is about the same as that of 1Ds_mk2 or more. Those. one and a half kilos. It doesn't bother me. My experience may be wrong, but what it is. If I came across a cheap F80 / N80 with a battery grip, I would take it. Even in spite of the fact that I roughly imagine how AF works there （related to Fuji S3Pro）
The difference is in the accuracy of the exposure, what are the available exposure correction steps (1/2 and 1/3 stops: critical for a slide), in focus sensors, in the speed of continuous shooting (although who will now shoot on film in series), as well as the presence of separate buttons and a second wheel to make work easier.
Everything is digital. For example, Nikon F65, 75 have 1 wheel to control shutter speed and aperture, while F80, F100 already have 2 wheels, spot metering is available immediately, more focusing points, autofocus tenacity on the latter two is better. If you want a good device for a minimal price, take the F80, the lag behind a hundred square meters is minimal, at a lower price.
Good afternoon, Arkady! Good day Alexander. On the occasion, the Zodiac 8b lens was purchased. After checking, it turned out that the diaphragm works extremely mysteriously. At first I decided that the petals were simply stuck together, since the rotation of the diaphragm ring did not give anything. But after rotating the focusing ring, at some point, the petals appeared abruptly at the aperture value 5.6 Slowly rotating the aperture ring, it was possible to cover up to 16. Then, when returning to the open aperture, the petals bounced again and did not appear. Several times it was still possible to achieve movement of the petals. Now only the thinnest edge of the open aperture ring is visible. And when switching the aperture values and rotating the focusing ring, it barely noticeably moves, trying to shrink. There is absolutely no information on the network for this lens. Help me please. At this point, it became clear that the problem seems to be due to the jump rope. At a fully open aperture, a stop occurs when the focusing ring is rotated. As if a mechanism is clinging to something inside. and the jump rope is completely recessed. If you pull it, the stopper goes away and the diaphragm closes when the numbers change. Tell me which side to disassemble to solve this problem. From the shank? and will not the focusing fail if you do not have to do the alignment if the lenses are not touched, but work with the shank?
maybe you have a video on how to repair such a lens. There is a video on the Internet for the repair of Vega 12 b, JUPITER 38 B, and 0 according to the Zodiac
Well, there may be a curved assembly of this whole structure, or maybe the spring has simply weakened. Anyway, this is such a cool puzzle from the physics section “mechanics”. Not only logic and direct hands are required, but also a certain supply of all rubbish (springs, etc.) for repair.
Arsenal's lenses for SF are all arranged in a very similar way, I think that it will be possible to figure it out “in the image and likeness”.
With focusing nothing will happen if you do not deflate the adjusting rings under the mount and do not change the start of the helicoid thread.
Rodion, thank you very much for your answer. My experience with self-repairing lenses is extremely low. And can I ask you if you have Arsenal lenses in need of repair and you plan to repair them in the near future, so that you photograph the disassembly process in stages and send the pictures to the mail turtle.82@mail.ru Since I live in a provincial town and here no one fixes such equipment, and I am a photographer myself and this knowledge will help me a lot. I have no idea where these same adjustment rings are located
Now I do not have Arsenal glasses, and somehow no one wore anything for me to fix)
Who uses what brand of binoculars when searching for birds / animals, in order to see them from afar and get as close to them as possible for filming?
Good day. Your help is required. There is an opportunity to purchase a Nikon D700 with a range of 119 thousand for 27000 Russian rubles (360 dollars) or a D600 with a range of 250 thousand for 30000 Russian rubles. Is it worth taking with such runs or not?
the 250 is an excellent camera in general, but it has already been removed from support and you cannot buy a new shutter. although in itself the indicated mileage for it is not very great. and six hundred is an ordinary very amateur camera, not outstanding at all, with its own problems. and the run of XNUMX thousand is critical for her.
Hello. I want to switch from Nikon ultrazoom to DSLR. Financially Nikon D3100 suits me. But I doubt it. What can you buy from older Nikon models to save money and try a mirror? Suddenly it's not mine.
D90, D200, D300s, D2Xs
D40, D50, D70, D80 ...
Good day. I ask experienced help. Nikon D750 refuses to take pictures at the stated speed. So slow. I put 6,5 frames, chose the minimum shutter speed, turned off the noise reduction, turned off the autofocus and nothing changed on the exhaust. Please advise what else you can do. The second carcass is D7500, since it is like a machine gun, with the same SD card, but significantly faster, visually one and a half times.
enable shooting only in JPEG, for a start.
Good afternoon,
I have a Nikon D5300, I need a lens for video and portraits, different photos on the street and indoors. A little money, I will not take a new one.
I read your review on the D5300, where you recommended these two:
https://radojuva.com/2013/12/nikon-dx-vr-af-s-18-140mm-ed-if/
https://radojuva.com/2012/12/obzor-nikon-af-s-18-200mm-vr/
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000005532&lang=ru
Based on the table, I understand that both suit me?
Which then can you take or a couple to one of these, so that it fits and you can do something more abruptly? Telephoto lens?
What to look for when buying?
Thank you very much in advance! ..)) I'm a beginner in this business! ..))
Both fit. And you only have a camera and no lens at all?
Standard lens included.
Which one is better to take? And there they can be of different generations, years of release?
Hello..??)))
In general, it is clear that no one on this site can answer my questions professionally, the author also rarely appears, scored on the answers, apparently ...))
Okay, so I'll answer myself for everyone who is interested in what lens to start with, so that you can take pictures universally: reportage, wedding, portrait, street, very sharp porter. Yesterday I talked with a 30-year-old photographer, RIA Novosti photojournalist ...)) I turned out to be such a friend, I just forgot about him that he works there ...))
Here is his answer to my question above, but I think that it will be useful to others. Again for Nikon, since I have Nikon, but the same characteristics are suitable for Canon, the zooms and sizes themselves:
(1) 24-70 f 2.8
(2) 70-200 f 2.8
(3) 85 fixed f 1.4 - very sharp portrait lens, huge aperture, you can do face, eyebrows, nose, eyes and whatever.
(4) There is no point in buying new DSLRs now, all professionals will soon switch to mirrorless cameras, it will be Sony, new lenses will also go to them, everything will be cheaper than the old Nikon / Canon, these forms may generally go out of the market, since in this area they are far behind.
(5) Your current cameras are good and your lenses will last for a long time, you don't have to spend the rest of your life in my case.
(6) They are not afraid to think about Crop cameras, that is, less than a full frame. Even my D5300 with a good lens will do almost everything.
Enjoy! ..)) Hope it helped ...)))
f is the aperture ratio, it is needed for sharpness, so you cannot take less than 2.8.
The greater the difference between the focal lengths, phot these numbers of the first and second (18-200 or 18-300), the worse the quality, the lower the sharpness, there will be turbidity, soap stains, etc. Therefore, take what I described above. These are standard reporter lenses. Yes, it's expensive, but the result will be! ..)))
You need to start with 1), you can buy it first, used. And then 2) and 3). And never buy any Chinese, all sorts of Tamrons and other Sigmas. Better even 100 times will be the Zenith of the Krasnogorsk plant, good optics in itself.
Well, don't. Sigmas of a certain series are very good, and cost no less than their relatives. And this is not "china", and 24-70 is better to take Sigma art than native. Tamron has a wide range. And the dark 150-600 can be a good solution for those who cannot spend a fortune on their own telephones with a similar focal length.
As far as I know, Zenith does not specialize in AF. What kind of competition is there ...
PS any bold condemnation needs some kind of evidence base)
Andrey, this site has articles with answers to all your questions. Curiosity, at least.
And yet, no one can know where and when “all professionals will move”.
Even the professionals themselves do not know this. This is the same as saying, all pianists will switch to Yamaha synthesizers.
They have nothing else to do, how to worry where they need to go.
Yes, he has a mess in his head. He asks a question about the crop camera, and gives answers for a full frame, as the pro told him, who only worked with a full frame. And arguments about the BZK are generally groundless. At the moment, how not puffed up Nikon the last couple of years, and sales of DSLRs are several times higher than mirrorless. And Ken Rockwell the other day described his thoughts that, most likely, Sonya will smoke on the sidelines with Nikon, and Canon will take the lead in the BZK.
You have opened the eyes of all site visitors! :-)
If this is new information for you, then for everyone else there are common truths. It's like telling a high school student that there is a multiplication table.
You, so haughty, shared the banal information, thinking that you made everyone happy.
Your fellow photographer has correctly voiced the list of required lenses:
24 (28) -70 (75) / 2,8 is generally used as a staff
70-200 / 2,8 VR - loved by wedding bombs
85 / 1,8 (1,4) - classic portrait
And all this is for a full frame, but for some reason he recommends buying crops.
And then Ostap (your friend) generally suffered ...
Remember the movie “Moscow Doesn't Believe in Tears”?
"In 20 years nothing will happen: no books, no theater, no cinema, one continuous television ...!"
This is what his predictions look like.
Who can afford to change cameras every year now buys UPCs from Nikon and Canon, but this does not mean that DSLRs have come to an end. The bulk of photographers will shoot everything, all the way from the shutters of their DSLRs, and only then acquire a new camera. Someone will need 10 years for this, and someone else 20. Therefore, according to point 5, I also add
The priority of the UPC is still controversial. Z6 / Z7 / Z5 and Rs bite a lot. And the focusing speed of top-end DSLRs so far exceeds the same parameter of the UPC. The reportage is definitely behind the DSLRs.
But professionals do not really like the Sony A7 BZK. Check out the statistics on flickr. Nikon and Canon DSLRs lead the rating of cameras for use and only then, by a wide margin, Sony!
Probably your friend, in addition to everything, heads the board of directors of Sony, which so categorically declares a reduction in prices for their devices and, most importantly, optics, which will ensure their final and unconditional victory in the market.
Your friend got excited about the lag of Nikon and Canon in the field of UPC.
Moreover, they have already made a new mount with an eye to the medium format!
That's what it's like to talk to a real pro on the phone, not like on “this site”! After a 2-hour conversation, the inquiring newcomer became a guru giving advice to all the poor and the poor.
13) Addition:
I also forgot to say about these lenses: they are medium-angle, normal. That is, they are exactly in the middle between the wide and narrow-angled. Take a look at the Lenses section of Wikipedia, there it is shown in the diagram.
This is what you need for all three.
If you, as was the case with me, see the word “telephoto lens” in ads on Auto, then do not confuse it with video filming on your device. As I said above, the camera does not shoot video, except for static video, on the spot, almost without movement, focusing will not keep pace. By this term - a telephoto lens or a telephoto lens is meant an ordinary long-focus lens, that is, to shoot into the distance, like photo cameras have such long tubes ..)) This is it. And they can lie to you on the ad, like me, or the seller himself does not know what he is saying. But the fact that the person on the phone claimed that it is possible to shoot a video already says that they are either lying or do not understand what they are saying! ..)))
Yes, I forgot to add the photo correspondent's answer, this is the result of a 2-hour conversation on the phone, I seem to remember exactly what he said ..))) But there may be errors somewhere:
(7) If you are a beginner, you have nothing, but you want to buy a new camera, and you have money for it, then buy a mirrorless camera right away, better Sony - this is the future that has already come, the company is a leader. Yes, others also began to quickly make up for lost time, but so far they are far behind. And oddly enough, especially the Canon company ...))) And this technology will allow everything to be much cheaper, everything will be much cheaper than that of SLR cameras, and lenses too. These cameras simply have an incomparable light transmission, ISO sensitivity than SLRs. And the weight is lower, and everything else is much better. This is all thanks to the replacement of optics with electronics, microcircuits, which replaced the drive and mirrors inside the device, etc.
It's great that everything is made cheaper and easier. What happened to phones and smartphones is now happening to cameras and lenses. Now we have a camera, a computer, a navigator, and games in our phone, and even YouTube without high-definition limitation (!) (And after all, we recently saved the Internet on computers at home), and the quality is 720 pixels and higher, and it's all worth it $ 150-200 with excellent quality, even branded Chinese ones are better than old brands. Well, this is such a technical progress ...)) All this awaits the cameras ...!
Read the article on Wikipedia, it is written there, I myself do not really understand this. But the photographer is delighted! ..)) He said that this year he should have been given such a new professional-level apparatus, but the budget at RIA was cut due to the crisis. And so RIA Novosti's plan is to completely gradually switch to standard mirrorless cameras. Other agencies also do this as the equipment is written off. This is for full-time photographers who are fully provided with all the necessary equipment, they do not spend their money on this at all.
(8) Never buy or use a camera to shoot video other than a static one from a tripod. It is not intended for this, except for some special very expensive models that combine it. For video, buy a camcorder, albeit a simple, inexpensive one, but it will be useful.
The reason is the lack of autofocus when shooting video with the camera. Yes, there is the same word - trick, but it works in different ways. Such is the technology. One autofocus for photos, the other autofocus for camcorders.
Yes, in phones, smartphones there is both, BUT this is a different technology, it is combined there again thanks to electronics. Maybe in this regard, too, someday they will all combine.
(9) Do not buy an expensive camera, professional (called full-frame, as the size of 35mm film, from this it went when they shot on film), it is better to buy these 3 lenses listed above and an inexpensive not full-frame, or cropped, crop camera from the English ... the word crop is to crop. My photo is D5300 Nikon or similar to me, and you will have enough for the rest of your life. This is an excellent camera in the skillful hands of a photographer! .. And these lenses too. You can even shoot at night on the D5300, BUT only from a tripod, take exposure, adjust, etc. And everything will work out!
Learn how to set up a frame, exposure, light, then these good lenses are higher, and a regular crop camera so as not to waste money. All!
Forget the on-camera flash. It is harmful and unnecessary. This is a reference to soap dishes. Turn it off or select mode without it. You need to buy a professional powder, and also add LED small lamps, backlight for photographing a face, for example, people are close, or people on the street. All this needs to be learned ... (((You can buy courses on the Skladchik website, it's cheaper there! ..
(10) Why are there so many lenses, but you need to buy these three and they are so expensive?
Marketing! Companies need to sell something, and many people just do not know anything from the above and know not though. They have no one to ask, and the courses are often poor and / or expensive.
So immediately give an answer, as I gave here, list 3 lenses, and go buy right away, few people will write and say this. Therefore, they will buy 18-200, 18-140, 18-300 and will travel. This is enough for them, they are amateurs without knowledge in photography. They do not care. And money drips into the pockets of firms.
Yes, these three are enough, since they were made for this, so that it would be enough ..)) You can get something else when you gain experience, but this is already a matter of taste and requirements for shooting.
Expensive - because they are very, very good, they will give aperture - the photos will not be dark, they will be bright, saturated, colored; clarity and sharpness, like a razor, you will see every little thing, they do not need a lot of light, they have a high aperture (the ability to get good shots in low light, the lower the f number, the value next to it in the 1.4 or 1: 4 format, the the better and the more expensive the optics. The camera has light sensitivity, the ability of the matrix to catch light. This gives good pictures, the ability to take pictures in the evening, at night.
No money, take nothing then. Now the course is very unprofitable even for used ones on Avito.
(11) Don't try to become a photographer - the market is full, there are a lot of them. Even schoolchildren over there now have SLR cameras. And with the advent of inexpensive mirrorless cameras, this will become even easier. Many leave the profession, who cannot get a full-time photojournalist. If you want to work, then you need a place to earn money, or go to the state. It's not easy in general ...!
Why is your friend working? Mine - already over 50 years old, an adult and very experienced uncle, started in the USSR, for 6 years I went to the photo studio of the Palace of Pioneers on Vorobyovy Gory, it was everywhere in the USSR, it was possible to master the profession for free, then they gave work in large circulation, gave a camera, paid even money. So a person entered the profession. And then the experience went to work in newspapers and magazines. So not everything was so bad under the Soviets, as they say and scold ...)))
A friend - he worked in Putin's pool, the Darkest One himself, stood next to him at 1m ..!))) I was stunned at this place and asked why you didn't tell me this. And he answered, because you didn't ask me about it. Now - just a regular photojournalist of RIA Novosti. It turns out that this is really one of the best and largest agencies in the world, a large staff of staff correspondents, journalists, photographers. Regular exhibitions and photographers are winners of many world-class competitions. There is a huge photo bank since the times of the USSR. The photographers there do nothing themselves, they took a photo - the best ones were selected, they are processed by photo editors, they are placed in a photo bank. There is a closed part only for RIA. High salaries - the best equipment, an excellent office in the center of Moscow on Zubovsky Boulevard. Well, they are engaged in an important area of work - propaganda and counter-propaganda .. !!)) Russia is protected ...))) Medical insurance, excellent canteen and working conditions. C - Stability! ..))
(12) I need a camera and these lenses, since I am a stylist, make-up artist, hairdresser, I do hairstyles for weddings, make women beautiful, I do their hairstyles for weddings and celebrations. I don't want to give this money to photographers, I want to keep it for myself. This is beneficial to me. This is the business model. But this is a special case so as not to lose money. The photographers I work with are just awfully rotten people, very bad morally, disgusting. Behind the back they called all of the 1000 clients, except for 6. It's horror. I hear it all all the time. I don’t want to work with them, so I’ll buy these 3 lenses and do it myself.
Hope it helped a lot, who is a newbie like me or just a hobbyist. Professionals don't come here anyway, they have work ...)) Thanks to the author of the site for the place for communication, maybe someone will use my answers. The main thing is that everything is in one place at once! ..))
(13) Did you notice how the “experts” immediately swooped in? ..)) Where were they before when I asked the first question? That's just it! Not every person is ready to give such complete answers, immediately tell what to buy and what not. Many simply wish you bad things, envy you, want to cheat you. Especially do not ask anything to the camera store, commissions, they will scout you like a sucker! They hate you! That is life…))
P.S. Thanks to the author for the space for the text and the website, and I hope I did not take offense for RIA Novosti and Putin ..)) I myself am their village Svesa, my parents worked there as engineers at the plant, then at NPO named after Frunze in Sumy, after 1993 in Russia we live. Now, after 2014, the main customers abandoned its services, Russia imposed an embargo, and this was high quality equipment - valves, pumps, MCP for VVER NPPs, shut-off valves for Gazprom, Rosneft, Rosatom, etc. The entire Sumy region lived at the expense of this, in the 80s, parents took part in the construction of this giant of the USSR, together with the Italians - Danieli's company, they built a new workshop for drilling equipment. Such were the prospects for parents ...! Eh .. the country collapsed, and now the plant. Nobody will build more of this, only the USSR could, but now only Russia is already. But that's a completely different story ...
The whole essay turned out ...)))
Everyone has their own vision of the situation, thanks for the thoughts
Hello Arkady. I have the opportunity to buy nikon d500 at a very good price. with a range of 112 thousand. is it worth buying with such mileage. everything that is up to 50 thousand mileage is sold 2-3 times more expensive. the camera was used as a spare.
let's just say they have a guaranteed run from the factory of 250 thousand chtoli .. or in the area of that.
If the camera were used as the main one, would it fundamentally change something?
Hello, dear Arkady and guests of the site,
I need your help in choosing a lens - I'll tell you more about it now.
I have a small, but proud fujik, which I carry with me with the settings “grabbed - aimed - clicked”. The main lens is 2,8 / 27 mm. He is good for everyone, but still wide, as for me.
Therefore, I was puzzled by the search for 35 or 50 in addition to it. Since I won't have money for anything in the near future, there is only one option: something manual + an adapter.
Actually, the questions are: 1) did I understand correctly that rangefinder optics will always be smaller in physical size than reflex optics (all other things being equal?) Especially considering the thickness of the adapter. 2) is there rangefinder optics in nature that are affordable to mere mortals, apart from the Soviet legacy? 3) What are the smallest 35-50mm SLR lenses?
I would be grateful for your advice and comments.
PS I even consider the T-43 ... if it turns out to be funny. Why not? small, on the crop it will be 60 mm, depth of field - from the navel to the horizon, sharp in the center, porridge around the edges to pass off as an "artistic feature" ...
1. Not always, but for lenses whose focal length is less than the flange distance (ie, mostly shirikov) the statement is true.
3. For example, Industar 50 / 3.5 (in general the industries are quite small), Zeiss Jena Tessar (the same scheme, there are quite compact ones), Pentax SMC 40 / 2.8
Further smart people will add)
1) not always new, old, or one that is done with an emphasis on retro design in the vast majority of cases less
2) exists, but optically does not shine.
3) old 35/2 and 50 / 1.8 which are mowed for pancakes, for example: Nikon Lens Series E 50mm 1: 1.8... But with an adapter it won't be very compact.
Look at the Chinese comrades, for example, at the same 7Artisans 35 / 1.2 - super compact, and even does not require an adapter, new and for only 100 bucks.
Thanks for answers! 7 Chinese guerrillas are very interesting. Forgot about him, thanks for reminding
Take a closer look at the Pergear / Andoer 35mm f1.6 - "Chinese" under aps-c: nice glass for your money, as an everyday manual - more than. Plus, Arkady reviewed his 25mm counterpart.
The downside is the focusing ring travel: I would prefer a little more than it offers (~ 120 degrees). Another feature is the 43mm filter thread. And perhaps there will be a variation in quality from copy to copy.
Thanks! Probably, I'll stop there. It would be nice to play with him, but that's how it goes. Everyone sells optics for Sonya
Pergear 35 was slowed down at customs, apparently it will not reach the review
Yes, film is not cheap. Therefore, it forces you to think before pressing the button. But if the figure, then everything is complicated ... Although, you might think in the direction of mirrorless. They are updated quite quickly, conventionally old models are quickly becoming cheaper. Take, say, Fuji X-M1 or something similar. Despite their age, they immediately give a very decent picture. Native lenses are frankly expensive, but with the help of adapters you can install almost any lens - even a portrait lens, even a mackerel lens. You will lose in efficiency, of course, but you will gain in the quality of pictures.
When you decide on your needs, preferences and buy something else, this UPC can work as a spare or additional.
Hmm.
My parcel with Andoer was also stopped by customs (and opened, which was accompanied by a piece of paper), but in the end the box with glass still arrived. True, this is in Russia.
"3) what are the smallest 35-50mm SLR lenses?" olympus zuiko.
Thanks! I heard that they are very good in the picture.
Good afternoon! Please advise: I want to do photography professionally, go to courses, I have never held a camera in my hand. Which one to buy to start with? I would like a not quite primitive amateur, so as not to change soon. The budget is up to 40 thousand rubles. , used even can (carcass + lens). The camera is needed for studio, street, subject shooting. thanks in advance for your answers, really looking forward to it!
And, of course, which lens to buy for the camera? (All together no more than 40 thousand rubles)
As far as I know, in good photo schools I can give out a camera during classes. Find out if there are such opportunities in your city.
Any camera, any lens and system in general is a compromise. Win in one, lose in another. It can take a lot of time and money to try several of them and finally choose your own. In addition, everyone will advise what they know well - and with good reason. Among the cameras released, say, after 2012, there are no frankly bad ones.
Also, the carcass is the least important component to getting a good shot. Much more important is 1) experience and skills of the photographer, 2) light, 3) lens. Take a look at this site at least - Arkady takes great photos with the “primitive amateur” Nikon d40.
In general, if you want to become a master, buy a film machine (but not Zenith: D). First, invest in a budget; secondly, very quickly master all sorts of photographic wisdom such as exposure control, perspective control, vision and the ability to frame a frame, etc. As an option: https://radojuva.com/2013/09/endorphin/
Spend what remains on good courses.
Thanks for the answer! But I think learning the art of photography on a film camera is very, very expensive. I would like to take pictures for free.)))) And not pay for each unsuccessful frame with film)))
This disciplines and forces you to devote more time to each frame and, in general, takes a more responsible attitude towards the film process itself.
This year he faced it himself because he bought a film camera (almost 15 years later from the previous shooting on film).
Are you joking as usual?
Why does a beginner need a film?
“As usual” - what are you talking about now? Basically I write on Radozhiv on the case.
In the 90s, even children with film soap dishes were worn, and then they handed over the film to the lab. They were probably professionals, yes.
Note, I did not recommend Alla to go and buy an EOS-1V or F5 right now,
but only told about his experience.
There is nothing wrong with filming. It is not necessary to burn Ektar, Ektachrom or Fujichrom, it is enough to buy KODAK GOLD 200 at least.
The army also disciplines.
I hope you will not advise you to go through military service before starting the photo courses? )
No dirt! Service in the Army is useful to everyone! So we will win!
Alexey, well, after all, autumn is outside the window, rains.
And if of course it's not a secret, who are you going to defeat?
the weather is fine in my jurisdiction. and we will defeat, first of all, our internal enemies, our indecision, backwardness, conservatism, bureaucracy and other isms, and unwillingness to take your ass off the chair :)
conquering ourselves we conquer others.
maktub!
The answer went wrong ... See above :)
Nikon D300 + Sigma (Tamron) 17-50 2.8, Canon 7D + D300 + Sigma (Tamron) 17-50 2.8 - cropped professional cameras of the past years.
A film camera has its own zest, its own magic of the process, but in terms of teaching photography, it provides the same “advantages” as the first Pentium for learning how to work in CorelDraw or PhotoShop.
I once worked for an ad agency, and an aspiring self-taught designer was assigned to make mockups of something out there in corporate colors. The lad spent half a day picking shades. Picked up. Then the boss came, said that he was an asshole and told him about the panton.
The educational advantage of tape is that it disciplines and provides understanding. “I’ll get it to FS” will not work.
"Film will not teach you how to crop, see color and texture, rhythm and plot."
It will teach you if you have patience and a head on your shoulders, and it is not only for a cap / hat.
And if you have eyes and an understanding of how a photo should look so that at least someone other than you would like it.
“And the legendary“ film color ”is essentially the application of one Instagram filter to everything you shoot. "
You hardly shot on film. And if you filmed something, I think remember that the color and DD are different for different films. Otherwise, each manufacturer would have 1 type “for Instagram” and that's it.
And yes, no need for filters and imitation.
It's bullshit. It turns out similar (more often generally shit)
And if you need to shoot "under the film" bought almost any of the extreme Fujai on a 26MP matrix and that's it. The colors are interesting, in some places similar to “something”, but still not the same.
"You don't need to advise a beginner on film."
"Pleka will only create more problems for him, giving him extremely dubious benefits."
For self-development, shooting on film is just as useful as on CCD - Nikon D40, D80.
And then the interest in the film among the current generation of young people who were born and raised under Putin is interesting. They like it, they are curious and it's good. And as for the color on the film - if there was a color like on the D800, no one would have bought it and the production of the film has long been closed. However, no, Kodak and Fuji sell it normally, if you look at the sales of the film in the same Moscow “Wednesday”.
Film - apply ONE filter depending on the type of film. Does this need clarification?
There is no esotericism in the tape that you are trying to bring. There are a number of colors perceived by the eye in the form of a three-dimensional figure, there is some transformation that transforms one color-brightness into another. Stupidly LUT. Plus grain. Each type of film has its own loot, its own grain pattern. If the task “to reproduce the exact film color is set”, it will be solved, there is nothing fundamentally unsolvable in it.
I'm not against tape as entertainment - to each his own. For a long time there will be a consumer for this product as for Smeg household appliances, for example, or Vertu phones. Like digital interconnects for crazy money, transmitting a digital signal WITHOUT INTERFERENCE. Like coffee, the fruits of which are harvested by virgins on a full moon, and brewed by virgins in an eclipse. Like a bunch of everything, but that there is a demand. But this is not a reason to recommend it to everyone, especially beginners.
”Film - Apply ONE filter depending on the type of film. Does this need clarification? "
Yes, Roman, needs, explain to me dull.
"Stupidly LUT. Plus grain. Each type of film has its own loot, its own grain pattern. If the task “to reproduce the exact film color is set”, it will be solved, there is nothing fundamentally unsolvable in it. "
It has NOT been resolved so far. Fuji came closest, the rest is photoonanism, just an imitation, often bad and tasteless.
“There is no esotericism in the tape that you are trying to bring. "
There is no esotericism. It's just chemistry and it still works and sells and buys well.
It's just that no one set such a task. Most will be satisfied with a filter that conveys the color of a certain type of film (LUT on post-processing). The minority will never be satisfied with anything, because there will always be an esoteric “wrong”. After all, even Hollywood blockbusters are still filmed. Someone purely from harm or from principle. True, less and less. The director (or cameraman) solves the problem. Convey a certain mood, aesthetics, create a feeling. The task is primary, not the method of its solution.
“And the legendary“ film color ”is, in essence, applying one Instagram filter to everything you shoot. "
By the way about Instagram.
I was at the closing of the season of the Classic Mercedes Owners Club recently and it so happened that there was a photographer who was filming love stories and he needed my help.
He saw that I was shooting at Propyatka, came up and asked him to help - by giving me 5DsR with Lkoy 24-70 / 2.8. I helped him. Imagine my surprise that he would post part of the photo on Instagram. Well, it would be fine on twitter or flickr. But on Instagram :(
Fuck all those 50MP? If it was a buddy of mine, I would take a Canon film, Kodak Portru 160, or Vision3 250D with me. And then we would compare pictures from his camera and scans from a good photo library. Just out of curiosity. I am sure that the color I would have turned out no worse, or even more interesting.
“I would have turned out the color no worse” - do you take pictures there?
Instagram is not Instagram - it has its working tool, it uses it. Or you need to keep a dozen camera models - oh, this is for Instagram, this is for flicker, and here I will shoot on the street, and here in the room. People work. And these photos on Instagram - at least they will see them. At least somebody.
"" I would have turned out the color no worse "- do you take off the paint there? "
No, I just know roughly what the result will be for him and me. Based on the shooting lighting and the selected type of film, as well as the behavior of a certain type of film under different lighting conditions. And also knowing what a certain camera model can show approximately under the same conditions with its standard color profile and a properly selected WB.
As for Instagram, I heard you, I have a different opinion.
The logic is that any training - even photography, even English grammar, even driving cars - should eventually form an understanding of the principles of what is happening. Those. not just know which buttons to press at what moment, but understand why this is happening. No tool by itself will provide such an understanding. The boy-designer knew which sliders to move, but did not understand that his picture would then go to print.
The film differs from the numbers primarily in that it makes you think before you poke the trigger. Any more or less modern digital camera with relatively good light will give an acceptable picture: bright, colorful and sharp. And it's free. This means there is no incentive to strain.
In addition, in the original TK, the task was set: a good camera + a lens for an inexpensive one.
"Any training - even photography, even English grammar, even driving cars - as a result"
It is an experience that is more often useful than useless. But how much a person is taught depends on his desire to learn something new.
*
When a completely unfamiliar stranger entrusted me with his expensive camera - 5DsR c 24-70 / 2.8, I mentally said thank you to myself that I was not too lazy and at one time mastered the control of Units and bought myself a Canon (although there was no need for this). Well, really, on the shooting itself, it's a shame to ask “how to change the focus point” ...
"Any more or less modern digital camera with relatively good light will give an acceptable picture: bright, colorful and sharp." - I have a feeling that this is some kind of neural network that averages the image up to three or four digits and causes sexual arousal when the threshold value is reached - A COLORFUL AND SHARP PICTURE IS REACHED.
My wife and I are going, I take a camera with me, with any lens. I shoot one frame, she takes the second. It is impossible to look at her frame, mine is not a masterpiece - but it is acceptable. We shoot from the same point, the same scene, the same settings. Because my horizon is not overwhelmed, a suitable focal point has been chosen and a frame is normally framed, where the children are separated from the background. Because I CAN SHOOT. But she is not. And it is not the film that makes me think over each frame, but my head. I distinguish good shots from bad ones, and I consider my bad shots to be bad, unsuccessful and looking for ways to improve them. I have a different criterion than ETATSVET, ETAZHYPLENKA.
Film photography is a waste of money on film and development these days.
You can also put the "M" mode on the DSLR and study calmly)
You just don't have to buy an expensive camera with a bunch of controls.
But in fact, only those who really want it will learn to shoot well.
Similarly, before, those who did not want to shoot well, they photographed on film anyhow)
SF looks at you in surprise))
+1
Or shoot in Av, only to correct the exposure. Having the opportunity IMMEDIATELY to reshoot what turned out well. Even 10-15 times, iteratively, bringing to the desired result - I frame better, better compose, removed debris from the frame, adjusted the exposure, caught the moment more interesting. But I didn't take one shot on film and went on - sharply, unsharp, beautifully, ugly, don't care, we'll see at home, if anything, the developer will pull it out.
“Even 10-15 times, iteratively, bringing to the desired result - I frame better, better compose, removed debris from the frame, adjusted the exposure, caught the moment more interesting.”
This is only possible with landscape photography.
*
On film or on old cameras with a tiny rear display, only one thing will help - namely, knowing your technique. How sharp this lens is, how the camera works with this lens. You just start to trust your technique (know its features: +/-) and shoot without worrying about back-front focuses and exposure.
Set the exposure compensation before shooting to your liking, the necessary settings and that's all and not think about them during shooting, changing only the focal, aperture value and ISO (on old cameras, on film and on foveon, you don't even need to do this at all).
If it pleases you personally, no one minds. But such a process cannot please everyone. And knowledge of your technique - whatever it may be - will not appear out of nowhere. Only experience. Therefore, the same knowledge but on the best technique will give an even better result - that's all.
Good day, Arkady and the dear team. The question of choosing a camera is tormenting ... I choose between Nikon D610 and Canon RP. The camera is needed purely for family photography and macro photography. Before that he owned a Sony A65 and Panasonic FZ1000, and decided to "dive" into a full frame. I haven’t shot with classic DSLRs before, and in some way I am worried that Nikon is a relatively outdated camera, but I really like the old Nikkor AF glasses, and the price of the carcass is now low (gray new $ 650). Canon RP captivates with novelty and functionality (focus-picking, etc.), but the price is $ 1200 with EF adapter. I know that the question is purely subjective, but I would still like to hear your opinion. Thanks.
The D610 and D810 were discontinued earlier this year.
The leftovers are now being sold.
The next in line is the D750, which is also now inexpensive after the release of the D780 and the cheaper Z6 (Z6s will be released in the winter)
*
Before buying any of the above cameras, I would try to rent or lend them in order to understand “mine” - “not mine”.
There are no Minolt full-frame lenses left after Sony A65?
Left. 50mm 1.7 with Minolta 7000 body for film photography. But somehow I don't want to go back to Sony SLT cameras. There was a thought to switch to Sony A99, but it quickly faded away and no longer attracts Sony.
As for the rental, a good idea. Thanks.
No longer S. The names Z6II and Z7II are officially announced.
On October 14, there will be a presentation of the updated Z-current. Perhaps not in winter, but in autumn they will go on sale.
Good afternoon. Help with advice, I'm a beginner, I used to shoot Nikon D800, I bought it, mostly when I tried someone else's M2, I liked the wildly drawing of portraits, it seemed quite convenient, I also worked well with Helik 44 M39 (more interesting than with Nikon photo, infinity is not there , was not needed for work there). Acquired 24-70 as a regular 2.8. There are all sorts of Tair and Jupiter 37A, which work flawlessly both on Nikon and on 5D.
Problem. With all lenses with FF less than 70, soap comes out on low-contrast scenes. On similar scenes with the more “easily soiled” king of lubricants Nikon D800, there were no problems. All the rest - I take the same. Exposure not less than 200, the scene is not darkened by design, and is normal. The aperture of the lenses in the test is 2.8, sometimes I clamp the aperture down to 4-5,6. As an example of a non-contrast scene where sharpness is important not only at the point - a sheet of paper with black text. Without a tripod, with hands, with a stub on the lens. Sharpness in the settings of the carcass is 1 position higher than the average on the scale (and took zero). Bottom line: the letters float a little. This is not a missed focus, as it was focused clearly with a magnifying glass and with confirmation of focus. Spot focus (in One shot settings).
That is, a portrait where you shoot in the eyes, in normal lighting, where you don't need to deliberately darken the scene, looks quite digestible. An example of kk scenes with such text on fr 70 and below are soap outlines. Lens independent.
On the heavy D800, even on Soviet optics under the same conditions from the same angle, the same object - everything is clear, even if you zoom in to pixels.
Sorry if I am not quite correct in formulating the terms.
Thank you in advance.
Canon 5D M2
nevertheless, the text is not very clear - what kind of optics do you use, what do you use to view the photo later. attach a photo here, as it is, directly from the camera. whole EXIF, better RAW, both cameras and different lenses. I shot a lot on the second mark, there are no complaints about the sharpness of the photo, there are 6.5 micron pixels, large and fat))
Hey. I have Nikon D3000 + af-s dx Nikkor 40mm 2.8 micro. In the reviews, everyone writes that the lens is sharp and even very. Here is my photo, is it sharp, as they say in the reviews?
https://vk.com/albums268691866?z=photo268691866_457242036%2Fphotos268691866
Maybe sharp. Sharpness is a loose concept. Usually, it means frame resolution, i.e. the ability to convey small details. You need to watch a 100% crop of a frame, not a full-size image. And the fact that you are “not very” is the lack of contrast. This is mainly due to light.
Sorry to steal your picture - I think you'll forgive me. Is this a sharp option?
Does the sharpness depend on processing? And yes, the colors are nuclear, the Volga does not happen like that).
Doesn't depend, but I gave an example not about sharpness, but about general contrast. What colors came out, I did not wind them
out of what? automatic color correction in some program?
No, lower frame exposure and contrast curves)
I agree about the contrast, I shot it in jpg with a “neutral” profile, that is. with a minimum of effects. But that's not the point.
So is my file sharp or not? Look please.
This cannot be said from the compressed file. Full size needed
vkontakte the photo has a button to open the original file, something like this
Lens sharpness is good (although this is clearly not the original from the camera)
original 100%, I shot it myself, without processing
D3000 has 10 megapixels, and this "original" is only 4)
Most of the trouble is in contrast (high key is not very justified) and poor light. Photos of leaves and close-ups in your gallery turned out well, but for general plans (landscapes) the light is too hard and the direction is bad. It is better to process such photos.
good day to all
I have a question
Comp MAC it has a program "PHOTO" (in it changes are made in%), how much in this program do you need to enlarge the photo so that the output is A4?
thank you
Hello. I want to buy a lens for landscapes on the hands of d7000. There are two variants of Tokina 16-50 f2.8 and Sigma 24 1.8, what can you tell about these glasses?
Based on general considerations, the fix is more interesting than a zoom for a landscape, but will 24 mm be enough. on the crop? Regarding Tokina, there may be nuances with af, in general, here is an overview: https://radojuva.com/2014/10/tokina-at-x-pro-sd-16-50-2-8-dx/
Hello, please tell me which lens to choose, I have a sony a7, the whale that came with it a year later fell down, we need an inexpensive (sony is very expensive) high-power, for landscapes and interiors, mostly a plus for video. And for video is AF or MF better? for a full frame, the choice in the internet is not great. Thanks in advance for the advice.
Minoltovsky ones can be viewed if the bayonet and the flange distance allow (I did not hold the A-7 in my hands, I do not know what it is). High quality and inexpensive glass. One "old man" 28-135 is worth something, it is not for nothing that he is called "a set of fixes in one lens." Legend!