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Comments: 8 582, on the topic: Question-Answer

  • Anatoly

    Hello. I wanted to buy a strong Russian optics, I wanted Helios-40 but expensive. I decided to buy a Cyclops, I bought NZT-1 by mail but not a regular metal lens, but with a rubber insert in the focusing ring. Year of release 1996, in the passport of FR 85 it is crossed out and it is written 55. Lenses with slightly blue enlightenment, no tail. Question! Why on the Canon 5D MDF is about 4-5 meters! Or is this normal? Or maybe the helicoid is wedged? Thank.

    • Oleg

      Cyclops, well, those that produced a light version of Helios-40, it seems, until the year 94 they released, then they replaced it with another model with a new ending design, and then generally with a non-removable night vision device. I can assume that your lens has a new design, there was also the so-called shank (it’s inside the M42, as it were), which was cut down, otherwise you won’t put it on the camera. Look carefully if there are traces of some kind of saw cut. In the shank, I don’t remember exactly, I also thought about purchasing for a long time, studied forums, there is also a lens, so its absence with a sawed-off shank makes its own adjustments, such as a change in MDF. And yet, as far as I remember, it was discussed that, alas, this version has no relation to Helios-40.

      • Anatoly

        Yes, I did not like the color of the lens right away. But the shank in the seller’s photo did not see and therefore took (

        • Rodion

          This is a lens from PNV manufactured by ROMZ. He doesn’t need to saw a tail with a lens, he gets out. The lens has mediocre quality and does not apply to the G-40.

  • Anatoly

    Here is such a model.

    • B. R. P.

      Sorry, but figznaet that you bought by mail ...

      • Anatoly

        Soviet night vision device CICLOP-1. With a lens in which there should be lenses from Helios-40. I tried to shoot. MDF is approximately 4-5 meters. Induced by the moon-strong flight for infinity. Probably need to redo something. Maybe there are adjustment washers there? Filmed in the evening the sun was at sunset in the clouds. And still the pictures catch the light. And not to say that sharply. Portrait photos are obtained at a distance of 4-5 meters. FR for some reason big.

  • Anatoly

    It seems to have found the answer to my question. There is no lens at all on the back of the M42 thread :( there is only a front lens. Everything seems to be factory-made to show no signs of disassembly. Did they really start hacking in 1996? The seller claimed that he sold forty of these lenses! For DSLRs. What should I do?

    • Alexey

      in general there is far from one lens in the lens. Is there a large photo on all sides of the lens itself?

  • Anatoly

    It was possible to unwind the helicoid without problems and there was small shavings :( It looked like a tail with a rear lens. And it was carefully sawed off. I will talk with the seller (maybe something will be sent in exchange.

    • Oleg

      There was a tail (inside the M42) with a lens. It was cut down, otherwise you can’t put it on the camera. And this, as I heard, is another version, no longer based on Helios-40.

      • Anatoly

        Yes, I saw those on Avito called Cyclops-1M. With a red pimp. But I didn’t see this model in reviews.

    • Alexey

      hmm this is not a lens. and don’t even do it yourself. in his trash.

  • Anatoly

    Here is a photo.

  • Anatoly

    Here. I don’t know whether to boot.

  • Anatoly

    And so

  • Sergei

    Good ... A couple of years ago here on the forum there was an announcement of the Tamron SP AF 17-35mm f / 2,8-4 DI OSD lens. Can someone review it now after some exploitation. Thanks.

  • Timur

    What is better to buy Nikon D3 (mileage 177 thousand) or Nikon D7500 (mileage 84000 thousand).?
    For the price are almost the same. The shooting conditions are not studio. Nature, sport, rain, snow.
    Security and speed are important. Before that was the Nikon D2H. The soul lies more to D3.
    Lenses
    80-200 MK3.
    50mm 1.8

    • Ivan

      Shooting speed and environmental protection? Definitely a D500!

      • Timur

        D 7500?
        The D500 is just a little expensive ...

        • Ivan

          You yourself asked about speed and protection.

        • Alexey_S

          Interestingly, I also wanted to offer the D500, because both the D3 and D7500 are full of compromises.

          I have D700 (“reduced” D3) and D850 (“enlarged” D500) in my hands, and the focusing of the latter is really impressive: it focuses in almost complete darkness (the seven hundred surrenders noticeably earlier), 3D-tracking works (in the D700 it is still raw), almost never does not scour, there is group AF, a very convenient joystick, more coverage (the D500 will have almost the entire viewfinder), etc.

          The overall management is much better. Apart from minor shortcomings, the 5 is good, but, conventionally, the 5th generation of D500, D850, DXNUMX cameras is a huge step forward in terms of ergonomics (from AutoIso settings to the screen).

          If you do not need FF, and you are shooting a sport, then maybe the d500 would be the best choice.
          PS This is just my opinion, and I do not pretend to be completely objective.

    • Alexey

      D3 or D3s - which one is on offer?

      • Timur

        It is D3. The second-hand option is offered for 45 thousand. Approximately the same in our city is the second-hand D7500. In terms of rate of fire, D3 will be a bit higher. Yes, and lives longer on 1 battery.

        • Alexey

          esca would be better. but just the "three" is also a great camera. in general, a strange question from a person who shot with a "two" and choosing between an amateur crop and a professional full frame :)

          • Timur

            Well, actually the difference in release date is about 10 years. And technology does not stand still. D2 was fine until you start shooting at "high" ISO for this camera.
            Therefore, I choose a camera between the old man D3 (2007) and D7500 (2017)

            • Alexey

              D3s shoots very well at high ISO. I just haven't tried D3, it will likely be a little worse. But full frame and protection are important for someone.

  • Artem

    Hello. I have on hand d3300 with whale 18-55. I want to buy something longer. The choice fell on two options, unfortunately there are no others.
    Nikkor AF-S 55-200 mm 1: 4-5,6G ED and tamron AF18-250 mm F / 3.5-6.3 what can you say about these glasses. Or is it better to look for something else?

    • Oleg

      For ordinary amateur photo tasks, 18-250 will be more convenient than wearing two lenses (18-55 + 55-200) and constantly changing them. But in this case, I write only for ease of use. In addition to it, immediately or in the future, you can buy Yongnuo 50 1.8, if on a budget, to get better portrait shots.

    • BB

      According to Comrade Tamron 18-250's reviews, it washes a lot at the short end, perhaps the problem is his copy + this is not a native optics. + Nikon will be lighter on the long end.

  • Alexey

    Hello. Advise mirrorless yes in the range of $ 1000-1500. With the ability to use non-native lenses. Interested only in photos. The possibilities of the video do not matter at all. Thank.

    • B. R. P.

      With any mirrorless camera you will have such an opportunity with the help of appropriate adapters.

  • Timur

    Nikon D7000 Camera.
    From Lenses:
    1. Jupiter 37A 135mm
    2mm 50

    I want to buy a lens for portraits. Of the used options in our city there are:
    80-200 f2.8 MK3
    85mm f1.8G

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Portrait fix already exists, now portrait zoom 80-200 mk3 just right

      • Timur

        Thank you very much for the advice.
        And if it makes sense to buy 80-200 f2,8 MK4? The difference in price is 7 thousand.
        Or still buy version 3.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          mk3 will be enough

          • Timur

            Got another good version of the Nikkor 105mm 2.8G ED VR SWM IF Micro?
            Will it be better 80-200?

            • B. R. P.

              For a better macro. For a portrait, debatable, but can be used.

  • Sergei

    I wrote on the topic about "crop", I decided to duplicate here too:

    Good afternoon. There is a question regarding crop:
    I’m shooting on a Nikon D3300 camera (crop, respectively), purchased a Jupiter-21m (200/4) lens - and expected that the crop factor would work, and the picture from Jupiter would be about 300 mm or more.
    However, when comparing with his old zoom, 55-200 (DX version) saw that the difference in the eyes was practically not noticeable, and after making test shots, he calculated the difference - the frame from Jupiter was only 1,15 times larger than Nikkor, not 1,5, XNUMX, which is similar as implied by the crop factor of the camera.
    Regarding the viewing angle of the lenses - Nikkor (would have been) 12 degrees, Jupiter - 8, which in turn also hints that there should be a "gain".
    What and where am I mistaken in my calculations and expectations?
    I am also waiting for the arrival of the Tair-3s lens, how will the camera crop affect it?
    PS
    I like the picture from Jupiter-21m more than from my own Nikkor 55-200 DX VR. It is sharper, well, noticeably lighter.

    • Trueash

      200 mm and in Africa 200, why suddenly “Jupiter” will grow to 300 (and Nikkor - no)? The focal length of a lens is a physical quantity that does not change; only the viewing angle changes, and even then, indirectly. It's like taking a 24x36 frame and then cutting out the middle 24x18 from it.

    • BB

      For all lenses designed for DSLR, the physical value of the focal length is always indicated. It doesn't matter if the lens is designed for crop, FF, or medium format. 200 mm for a crop, FF, or SF will remain 200 mm. What changes during development is the coverage area, i.e. if the crop lens is set to FF, the corners of the image will be darkened. And the viewing angle and "magnification" will be the same.

      • Sergei

        for BB and Trueash
        read what crop and ff are and how they will visually differ:

        https://radojuva.com/2011/05/size-of-matrica/comment-page-4/#comment-342766
        here with pictures, everything is clear and understandable.

        Of course, the focus will be the same everywhere, no one has canceled physics, but under the same conditions on the full frame more space will enter the frame, accordingly the elements will be smaller, and the crop will take up less space, while the details in the final picture will be larger. That's why they say, for example, that 50mm on crop can give an equivalent of 75mm full frame.

        This is what I expected that my 200 mm from Jupiter, being calculated for 36 * 24, on my crop would give an EQUIVALENT of 300 mm. And this does not happen, the picture of my standard telezoom, designed for a crop matrix, is, in the end, exactly the same as from Jupiter.

        • US6IBD

          Your 55-200 telezoom has EFR on a crop of 82,5-300 mm. Let it not bother you that it is designed for DX cameras, since the focal length is true, and not equivalent to crop.

    • Valery A.

      Sergey, on any lens, they write its true focal length, this is “the distance from the front main point ...” (read it yourself), - both for a 1,5 crop and for a 5 crop (6,0 - 20,0 mm standard zoom for it, and not shirik), the question on the sensor is what size it projects. It is customary to measure from FF (36x24mm), comparing with the angle of the picture on FF - the so-called. EGF, so DX 55-200 on a crop of 1,5 gives an EGF of 82,5-300mm, U-21m also EGF 300, on a FF from U-21 EGF 200mm, and on a crop of 5 (if attached) - EGF 1000 would give.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        Yes, this is the most common question for beginners. The most common question that appears under almost every review. That's why I worked out a simple rule.

        On ANY cropped camera, EGF is ALWAYS recounted for ANY lens. Without any exceptions.

  • Vadim

    Hello, I would like to fix the Lomo compact in St. Petersburg, and since I just started filming, I don’t know the appearances, addresses and passwords, could you tell me?

    • Ivan

      Such rare rarities can be repaired only by rare amateur craftsmen who also have spare parts.

  • Anatoly

    Hello. I ask for help again) I bought a Helios-40 lens early white by mail. But having screwed the adapter upset (The back with the m39 thread is deformed! Apparently the camera was dropped but there are no signs of falling on the lens. Can this be fixed at home? Is there not a working Zorky who can be twisted into it gradually and bent? Or are there any ways? PS something is not lucky for me on expensive lenses.)

    • 1Ds_mk3

      You can’t buy optics by mail.
      Only a personal check.
      It’s better not to buy anything with delivery.
      Let the sold returns the money.

    • Sergei

      Aligning the back geometry of this lens is very difficult even for an experienced craftsman.
      And to shoot with optics with a tilted optical axis - this is strong distortion and lack of sharpness in at least two corners.
      It is best to return the subject to the seller and get your money back.

      • Anatoly

        Return is unlikely to succeed. He says that maybe the carrier hit the lens. Although the box is whole and inside too. Probably I will try to bend with the help of an old camera.

        • US6IBD

          And you accidentally did not allow a bias when screwing the adapter?

          • Anatoly

            Of course not. By the way, almost managed to straighten the backdrop! True, the camera could not stand it, the bayonet collapsed) Today I already took it off) I think that next time I will straighten it to the end when I get another old non-working carcass.

  • Michael

    Hello.

    Flour of choice!))) Amateur. I have been using a cool d1100 with a whale 18-55 for a long time. I tried fix 22 and realized that it wasn’t mine ... Only zoom!))) The camera is morally outdated, and it’s a very budgetary 12MP ... I want something more comfortable and better ...

    In general, I want to take a better camera with a rotary display. Plus a universal lens with focal lengths from 17-18 to at least 100 ...

    I choose between nikon 5200, 5300 and canon 650d, 200d ... The budget is 15-25. I am not ready to give more for “photos” for insta and family archive =)

    For the price of course more like options
    Nikon 5200 + 18-105 vr
    canon 650d + 18-135 stm

    Is it worth overpaying for 200d or d5300? Anyway, which is better of all these? According to ratings, the same 5200 is much higher than 650, but is it so ?! I seem to have got used to the canon already, but I am not satisfied with many things, for example, the dynamic range and high ISOs are very sad ...
    In general, tell me, what would you recommend from the list for this money for my tasks (or not, it doesn't matter) ...?

    • Sergei

      For instagram and family archive, the Canon 1100 features are quite enough.
      The main disadvantage of this device is noise at ISO 400.
      But there is also a plus - a relatively thick pixel, which can work well with old inexpensive optics.
      Considering your love for zooms, it makes sense to buy a native 18-135 with a stub for a very inexpensive (but not STM - this one is much more expensive).
      Stub will partially solve the problem of noise at high ISO.

      • Michael

        Thank you for your reply!
        I originally wanted it! And in principle, I set the ISO at 100-200 and norms during the day, and in bad light without a tripod I don’t touch it ... Therefore, I don’t experience any acute problems with noise ... But again, one thing when it’s not necessary, I don’t take it in my hands, knowing what not will cope ... = / I rarely put it on 800 and, as a rule, I am not satisfied with the pictures ...
        Well, the screen for 1100 squalor! Small - the resolution is horrible - as a result, the shot is invaluable, in any way. Hardly visible in the sun. Well, for the photo from below from above, I would still like to rotate the screen ... The touchscreen is not really needed, but I think it will not be superfluous ... In the end, I am still leaning towards 650d.

        18-135 stm seems to be praised more for the quality of optics and autofocus a little faster / more accurately. Not?

        But I didn’t understand the pixels ... You want to say that 12MP at 1100d works better than 18 at 650d or what?

        • Sergei

          12 megapixels will work better with old manual lenses (than 18 megapixels), unless of course you decide to use them in your work.

    • Roman

      200d is smaller, lighter, pulls the battery better, behaves better when shooting video, stop better by ISO.

      If possible, try someone 55-250. Perhaps you will like it - small, light and with a stub, for street photography or portraits of the house - quite for yourself.

      According to ISO - noise reduction, at least even Photoshop or from Lightrum. I've found old pictures from 12 years old, which were made just at 1100, and there are also many things that can even be extended to 1600-3200. Progress does not stand still.

      • Michael

        Thank you for your reply!
        I don’t want a collection of lenses ... It was a surprise to me to take a 22 + 50 + telephoto lens, but it was blown away by another 22m))) Yes, aperture ratio and sharpness very good. pleased! But when I put the whale back on after a while, it was as if it were a “load off my shoulders” for the convenience of work))) I don’t like a bunch of “eyes” in a bag on my shoulder and somehow the composition can be zoomed easier by turning the ring. Well, as for an amateur ... So preference for a lens like 18-135 ...

        On ISO, I unsubscribed a little higher. I will add that yes, a lot is decided in post-processing, but alas, not everything! For example, I tried to make night time lapses, the result: the action camera Gaupro 7 coped with this task better, alas ... For at 1100 there is either noise, or there are no stars, or exposure 15+ and everything floats ...

        As for the 200d - yes! In fact, the ideal (for my tasks) option! But on the secondary housing it costs 2 times more than 650d, will this overpayment be justified ?!
        Do you need 24MP for budget lenses and hobbyists? question…

        • Roman

          Well, miracles do not happen. For timelapses, especially for the sky - a tripod, a moderate fast shutter speed, large ISO, better full frame and wild processing, it is possible to add frames. So that everything is universal - it does not happen.

          22 is the EF-M variant. On the EF-S - 24 / 2.8. If you haven't gotten rid of it, it looks very good on the tiny 200D, versatile enough and fast enough for many different tasks.

          Try starting with 18-135, maybe it will bring your old 1100D to life, first of all, with a wide range of focal points and stubs. It's just that the 650D is not going to be so different. The rotating screen is good for those who shoot video. Well, or for complex framing, but there you have to not be lazy to walk and climb somewhere.

          In general, practice shows that even on complex and demanding filming, you usually use zooms at the minimum and maximum range. Well, sometimes in the middle, but rarely enough. Even you often accustom yourself to crop with a margin so that you can then cut the corner or at least 4: 3 to squeeze. A 3-5x zoom is useful for television, but in the middle of the range you can often do quite well with something average and one.

          • Michael

            Well, about TL I understand that there is another equal)) But the hands itch)))
            I thought about taking a high-aperture 50k and looking for an advantageous angle ... But it's still a shame that the compact VIDEO action camera for 800 ISO, in the interval photo mode, gave material better than a large PHOTO SLR ...

            Yes! Forgotten a little ... Canon EF-S 24mm f / 2.8. But personally I did not like how it looks! Miracle Yudo ... Compact, of course. But as for me, the view of an elephant without a trunk)))

            In principle, the plan was that ... I wanted to take the object 18-135 first, then think about whether the carcass is needed. But there are many options on the market, namely the 650 with 18-135 stm at reasonable prices ...
            Swivel yes - mainly for video, but even when you shoot "from the ground" in the viewfinder you don't really get enough of it. Living on the sea, there are a lot of landscapes ruling a similar perspective and you have to spank blindly ...

            I agree, usually I use the zoom at minimum-maximum. You need a darker or more blur 55, a wider frame 18. But in the process of zooming, you often find the desired angle and then set the focal angle as it should technically, taking the necessary steps back and forth ...

  • coroner

    Good afternoon.
    There was a question. Took from the hands of Tokina 17-35 / 4 to d800.
    There was such a bug - when shooting high-contrast scenes at 17 mm (silhouettes against the sky and the like) the mirror does not drop down instantly - it remains raised for 1-2 seconds.
    This is only 17 mm, this does not happen on other focal lengths.
    If the scene is more or less evenly lit (for example, indoors), this also does not happen.
    What could be the problem?…

  • Alexey

    Tell me, I think to take sony rx 100 m vii.
    Can anyone share real experience on this model?

  • Gregor

    Arkady,
    in many articles links to ravs fell off
    Please reload

  • Inna

    Good day. I am a beginner photographer. I have a simple NikonD90 camera. Lens 18-105 and 50. I want to advance in photography and plan to buy a new camera. Advise that it is better to get, a full frame, better a carcass and separate lenses, or assembled? I ask for advice)))
    I plan to shoot outdoors, indoors, matinees, weddings, a studio.

    • Ivan

      Honestly, it is strange to hear from you such a question. You have already fully mastered your set and you become "crowded"? Then you yourself know what you are missing and what you are striving for.

      • Inna

        And you can read more?
        I do not quite understand your answer.

        • BB

          And we did not understand your question.
          Usually such questions are asked by people who have no experience in shooting with DSLRs: “I want to buy a camera, tell me which one”.
          A person who has some experience shooting, and who wants to upgrade, usually has the idea that he is not comfortable with the existing technique, and in which direction he wants to move on.
          - “outdoors, indoors, matinees, weddings, studio” - a very wide range. You can recommend Nikon D5 + 58 / 1.4 + 24-70 / 2.8 + 70-200 / 2.8 to start with (for example) + studio flashes + several SB-910 ...

          So:
          - what does not suit the existing equipment?
          - budget?
          - shooting priority - that is, what do you plan to shoot mainly (main direction)?

        • Ivan

          The set that you have available allows you to shoot in all the scenarios you listed. Especially for a novice photographer. Arkady, for example, with the help of the same camera conducts commercial shooting, that is, he makes money.

    • Trueash

      With your technique, you can shoot everything you listed. How to shoot is another matter. You don't have to go far for examples - Arkady knows how to take a good picture even with outright trash (up to a tin can: D)
      Although the site is about photographic equipment, it nevertheless takes a good picture, in order of importance: 1) the skill of the photographer, 2) the light, 3) the lens, 4) the carcass.
      Therefore, I would advise you to objectively evaluate your work, determine what is good in it, what is bad, why so - and based on this, look at where and what to improve. For me, for example, communication with other photographers has become very useful - meaningful criticism is not always pleasant to hear, but it really helps to see my work in a different way. Well, you don't have to follow all the advice ... the main thing is to understand why you are doing this and not otherwise.
      Therefore, if you do not have bottomless pockets, I would advise you first of all to increase the level of skill, and then see if you need, say, 6400 or 8 fps workers.

  • BB

    I noticed that in the comments, for some reason, time was in Paris (one hour behind Kiev)

    • Ivan

      Perhaps because the server is on “.com”. Previously, there was a site transition, Arkady wrote.

  • Anatoly

    Hello. Please tell me a lens with mult enlightenment or not? With serial number 888447.

    • Anatoly

      Here is a photo

    • Anatoly

      Here

    • Victor

      As far as we know, the letters "MC" speak of lens enlightenment.

  • B. R. P.

    The letters MC indicate multilayer enlightenment.

    • Anatoly

      So this lens is just enlightened glass.

  • Tim

    Hello! I now have a d90 with a whale of 18-105 and a d7100, which I took sort of as an upgrade. They also have fifty dollars and a simple TV.
    What is the point: I took a couple of months to a new camera and realized that I did not like his picture at all, but on d90 with half the number of MPs, it was very soft and pleasant.
    I thought about the fact that I would like a camera that also gives + - such a "soft" picture, but the d90 has a critical amount of noise for me (after 400-640 people it is impossible to shoot).
    Now I’m thinking about selling the d7100, paying a little extra and taking the d700 or d610, but I don’t know if I will get the desired character of the picture?

    • Alexey

      The D700 is a good camera, but removed from support, it will be difficult to find a shutter, the D610 is an openly amateur and heavily cut camera. as for the picture, this description is very vague. it is impossible to understand what you want and what does not suit you. besides, high-quality processing can do a lot.

      • Tim

        I'm basically talking about the characteristic soft edges of all contrasting (dark on light) details, the color rendering is nicer and just more “artistic”, though a little losing in details, the image, or something.
        Well, in principle, in 610 compared to the same 7100, perhaps 1/8000 is not what I might need.
        And in the lightroom (regarding processing) I sit quite a lot, and I only shoot in raw. But in the cell I was still somehow completely disappointed when, after a three-month downtime, I took the old one again.

        • Alexey

          this is a problem of optics, not a camera. spherical, as well as chromatic aberrations on cheap optics will be more noticeable on more multi-pixel cameras, this is obvious.

    • Pokemon

      It’s strange. There was a D90 and I don’t remember the annoying noise until iso800. Something unpleasant after 800 began.
      Showed up in Capture NX2. I did not touch the sliders in the menu at that time - they stood by default, did not increase the sharpness.

      • Tim

        Well, until about 800 I shoot all sorts of city plots and other not so demanding scenes, they don’t show anything critical, but when shooting people or animals I don’t even want to bully so many.

  • Alexander

    Hello, Arkady. I want to hear an expert answer. Tell me please, how does a 12-megapixel camera record an 8-megapixel frame, the entire sensor area or the central part of 8 megapixels? Logically, the image through the lens enters the entire area of ​​the sensor and then the camera converts it into an 8 megapixel one. Am I reasoning correctly?

    • Alexey

      not Arkady, but I will ask - what, sobssno, are we talking about? that you can select a lower frame resolution in the camera settings? if about this, then of course, the frame is simply subjected to programmed resize after shooting, and that's it.

      • Alexey

        * Resize, sorry no editing posts.

        • Alexander

          Thank! Intuitively, I guessed, but thought that it would not be superfluous to clarify.

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