If you cannot find a suitable topic for your question, add it to this section.
Perhaps a site search will help you:
Just enter your search query in the specified field:
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Please note that for some questions I do not know the answers, or the answer requires 10 pages of text. When asking questions, try to formulate them correctly and in a detailed manner, honestly, neither I nor other readers of Radozhiva have telepathy and can not understand and even more so answer short, meaningless questions.
If you are completely stuck, then consult with me on my contacts (preferably through any messenger and / or social network).
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Help please!
1. Arcadia and all those responsible, thank you
2. I have a nikon 3100 and soon there will be some kind of canon cheap
3. I want to buy the first flash. For amateur shooting. Definitely China. In the flashes I do not understand ANYTHING.
4. The flash should be remote, ie not on the camera
5. Should work both outdoors and indoors, highlight up to 5 meters.
To all who answered, many thanks
Example photo indoors:
If you want to work with a TTL flash (in automatic mode), then it is definitely better to take branded (Nikon / Canon), even used Chinese flashes will work noticeably less stable than the original. Plus, if the flash is not on the camera, then you will need a TTL radio synchronizer (for example, Yongnuo 622 ≈ $ 70 for a couple on Ali Express)
If you are ready to work with manual flashes, then I recommend Yongnuo 560III, 560IV, 560Li + the 560_TX_PRO radio synchronizer (the most sophisticated, can fully control 560s, can also work with 622s), or 560_TX_II, RF605 or RF603 (the most post).
Here on the site there is a review of Yongnuo 560III and 560IV, the other day I came 560Li, I'm waiting for 560IV and synchronizers.
Thank you so much for the detailed answer!
Good day. I see that you still do not have a review on the Nikon D850 camera. Could provide you this review camera
Good afternoon.
The problem with the Nikon d300 with the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m lens. When shooting at different focal lengths, it wedges the shutter petals (I don’t know how exactly they are called). In the viewfinder, a black picture, on the external information display shows f0, does not respond to the shutter button.
I do it off, then on. I press the shutter button and the shutter curtain clicks and the image is again visible in the viewfinder.
Sometimes it generates an error fErr and the last frame is half-illuminated.
Tell me, please, at least approximately what is the problem?
Mirror and / or shutter.
How to solve the problem with the mirror or shutter?
The camera is in service.
> what is the problem?
Wear on the mechanics of the camera.
Please give advice. I want to switch to a used full frame. They offer a one-year-old (and still a year of warranty) used D610 with only 1500 frames used. To my question: what is the reason for the sale? the seller replied: “there is not enough money for Sony a6500, DJI Ronin SC”. Those. the D610 was probably used for video all year round. Question: is it worth buying the D610 in this condition for photography with a price of -25% off the new price?
It's all the same a lottery. Ask to take pictures. If the seller is in your city, I think he will not refuse. The camera may be in a chic state, but you just can’t come up with some parameters, which you can’t predict in advance.
I bought my boo full frame camera through a thrift store. The price was greatly reduced due to the broken information screen, not even the viewfinder (just a little), and the camera is wonderful. Many are now switching to Sony. I shoot - everything suits me.
After the purchase, I passed it with the most used lens for diagnosis. It turned out everything is fine.
The price tag is generally a random thing. Sometimes they discount up to 50%. For such a far middle-aged model, -25% is more than. I say this as an economist, not as a photographer)))
The seller assures that the video “did not shoot at all”. How to check? Moreover, if we take into account his desire to acquire a clearly specialized VIDEO set “Sony a6500, DJI Ronin SC”. And yet, how to check a one-year-old used D610 with such mileage, tell me)))
Eugene, here in this article it is well written about checking the camera before buying:
https://radojuva.com/2013/10/where-are-you-bug/
I have read the above article, but it does not answer my main question: how to check the ANNUAL used camera after the VIDEO RECORDER? Indeed, in a one-year taxi, the body and interior of the cabin visually can also look beautiful)))
Check for pixels https://radojuva.com/2015/01/out-of-space/
I can only share my thoughts. I would first check the matrix.
When shooting a video, the sensor heats up, which can lead to temperature deformations.
If the matrix does not have visible signs of damage from prolonged exposure to high temperature, cracks, etc., then check everything as Arkady wrote in the article: the presence of hot and broken pixels and traces of dirt. Nothing else comes to my mind.
And what do you think: if the camera shutter made 75 thousand in a year. pictures that CONDITIONALLY worked out about half of the resource, or is it possible to "ushat" the camera by VIDEO in a year?
When shooting movies, the shutter is open and does not wear out.
But the matrix works and hot pixels may appear on it.
Good day. Probably it’s impossible to find a more competent site on lenses, so please do not throw rotten tomatoes, ask a question ...
Which of the lenses available on flea markets and purchase / sale announcement sites is best suited for a homemade USB microscope, whose projects are presented in large numbers on the Internet, in particular on YouTub? What parameters should he have to implement this idea? I'm already confused in all its diversity ... .. Thank you!
There are special lenses for microscopes. I won't lie, not that kind of specialist.
It’s just that homemade products will certainly advise you like ordinary lenses, even remaking old Soviet ones.
Any self-respecting brand, whether Nikon, or our domestic, has models of lenses and even the most microscopes for serious tasks. I would honestly not take a steam bath, but I would immediately go to the official website and study the details of what they are and ask questions.
Looking for what the microscope is for you, whether you will write a video from it.
In physical research, you need lenses with 100x magnification, achromats, I think you don't need that (if you just solder, for example). If it is interesting, I will check with a relative who understands more details. They work with LOMO.
For a bug, a 4x zoom may be sufficient.
I literally ran into the wikist article - it quite normally classifies such lenses: by the degree of chromatic reduction, by the magnification factor, by the length and the ability to transmit light.
Open the article "How to choose and buy lenses for a microscope", I am afraid to give links here, on the site sometimes the system then swears.
Filmed on KIEV-60 and KIEV-19 - wonderful and reliable devices (and now safe and sound), from the bottom of my heart thanks to those who developed and created these two miracles! And now the question: when shooting on the KIEV-60, there was practically no blur, everything was sharp and clear, although I shot it from my hands at a shutter speed noticeably long, and even though the shutter button on the 60th was noticeably tight and the curtains flapped loudly enough and there was a slight movement of the apparatus. But when shooting with a modern DSLR, you need to be especially careful, since blur or blur can ruin an interesting frame. Stabilization doesn't always guarantee ringing sharpness. That is why modern technology is so capricious, or did my hands just grow out of there?
Megapixels and film grain.
Take a look at the camera settings. More than half of the profiles in the camera are set for a slight underestimation of sharpness, the example on Canon is the "Portrait" profile. On Nikon, the profiles in the menu section are called "Image Quality".
Arkady had an article here, in the section of the article - it was called “About how to increase sharpness on a SLR camera in a simple way”. I also didn't pay attention to these settings before, I thought that the profiles were more for color saturation.
And Above, a person who is more competent than me formulated what I thought was not very competent. Older and crop cameras are easier to shoot because of the sensor. The fact that there is a threshold for the expediency of increasing the matrix has long been debated.
Hello. Is it possible to install the TAIR 11A lens on the OLIMPUS SP-560 UZ camera. If yes, then where to get the adapter. Thanks.
It is a compact with a fixed lens. Cannot be installed.
Hello! I have a nikon d300s. I have been choosing P mode on it lately, because I shoot quickly and have no time to adjust to M. you get such a smoky pixel haze when you zoom in. aperture and shutter speed automatic, ISO too, but for some reason 800 is set, although it was daytime and 100-200 would be enough. So, I do not understand what is the reason, tell me, please. already tired of spoiling the footage ...
The picture is underexposed by 2 stops at least, hence the “pixel haze”.
If this happens on the machine, then the reasons may be the following:
1. There is a limiter to the maximum ISO, does not give a bullet above 800, especially if (see trace).
2. A dark lens with a forced shutter speed requires a high ISO.
3. Stuck the diaphragm on the lens in the closed position.
4. If you shoot with the built-in flash and on in Command mode, not TTL.
in this picture, 250 shutter speed and aperture of 8, although it is a fast fifty dollars with 1.8. I checked that ISO 800 was in P mode, but it did not change automatically :( I still don’t understand why. Does the camera not use all the resources of my lens? I could open the aperture more. So, is it better not to use P mode?
Is the exposure compensation turned off or bracketing on? In general, I find it difficult to imagine when to use the “P” mode. When shooting outdoors in 80% of cases I use “A”, if exposure is important, then “S”, or “M” + AutoISO, I have been shooting with digital cameras since 2006, I don’t remember ever using “P” ...
Strange glitch. Fifty Nikonovsky native? On other modes, is this observed?
fifty dollars yes, nikkor. and with sigma I have the same situation. with any lens. here is a photo on sigma. f 16, 1/1000, ISO 800. mode P. ISO was such, not automatic.
fifty dollars yes, nikkor. and with sigma I have the same situation. with any lens. here is a photo on sigma. f 16, 1/1000, ISO 800. mode P. ISO was such, not automatic.
in other modes there is also such haze and pixels in pieces. and it seems to me that this is due to the increased ISO. because with manual settings such bullshit does not arise, that is, it is not every time, but only when P mode or there was still a story ... I had an iso car with a limit of 800, I walked around and took pictures on M. all the pictures were also spoiled ... for a long time did not understand what was the matter. then it came ... the camera always set ISO 800, even in the daytime. and when I removed the setting, everything was fine. so my version is ISO elevated so crap. because I have pictures where there is no such thing, and there I chose the ISO myself. I wanted to listen to the opinions of other users
and I will not use P mode anymore))))
Firstly, ISO800 can be installed, then autoISO will start from this value. Secondly, it is possible that the exposure compensation is set or bracketing is turned on or the exposure meter correction is twisted in the settings. Because of this photo is dark
Yes, also look at the metering method - you need a matrix or center-weighted
And why did you decide not to use the A / Av or S modes?
P-mode is often used by beginners (but beginners do not buy d300s .., but d5100 / d7000, although now all three cameras are worth a penny), well, or as an option when you need to shoot at least something in a sudden report.
*
“Because I shoot quickly and have no time to tune to M”
Then you don’t need it at all, you won’t be able to replay the camera’s automation, and it’s not always necessary. M on the reporting camera is rarely needed if the camera was bought for its intended purpose.
A / Av mode is very easy to learn and easy to use - you set the minimum and maximum ISO, or limit yourself to one and smoothly adjust it during shooting, along with the aperture and focal value.
Automatic ISO in mode M is remarkably implemented and always helps when the level of illumination in the frame changes rapidly (a lot of foliage in the wind, moving clouds, the moment of sunrise-sunset). It’s just that in M the maximum ISO is set at the same time (based on the realities of illumination) and auto-tuning. For myself, I call it the third auto mode, after A and R.
“A” is actually more convenient.
but “A” does not provide any advantage. I slipped off it smoothly, as I gave up almost from autofocus, except for very dynamic scenes, because contrasting objects such as gratings, grids, tree branches, etc. often interfere with autofocus.
“R” can still come in handy sometimes, at least if you need to freeze motion at very short shutter speeds, but I agree, it is inconvenient.
Auto-ISO should be used very carefully. If the limit is set large, then it is possible through negligence, with a rapid decrease in illumination, to screw up a bunch of potential frames.
Meant on Nikon.
Do you focus manually on the viewfinder? Or use LV? Your experience is interesting.
It seems to me that it is easier to choose an exposure pair than to focus manually, on the other hand, if you focus through the viewfinder, then to view the frame you will have to tear yourself away from it to assess the final exposure ...
Is this a question for me or a person above?)
I do not use LV. The fact is that I myself am a beginner. LV advise, but just still not finished the hands to master. But in some places there is a feeling that understanding is coming.
And now it’s easier for me to see the whole picture in the viewfinder. Exposure meter somehow fails. In difficult situations, exposure compensation can be applied.
And since I firmly decided to study with manual lenses, since portraits are primarily interesting, I began to trust the focus confirmation point more than autofocus. That in the absence of dynamics is not so critical.
I just like to “catch” this circle. Provided that it works correctly with this particular lens. With a manual telephoto lens, point-by-point is the hardest thing to focus on.
With manual focus, it’s easier to feel the plane in which the device is relative to the subject.
It seems to me that everything is individual. How to walk. Someone immediately got up and went. And someone at first creeps for a long time. I'm crawling)
Not quite at first I ate the question.
No, not the viewfinder for sure. I have a diopter. but knocking her down is the easiest, she herself is just a crutch.
Nikon has a focus confirmation circle in the viewfinder on the left, for perception is it.
K Canon is somewhere on the right and works, in my opinion, a little differently. Canon recently bought. I could be wrong.
“Because autofocus is often interfered with by contrasting objects such as grates, nets, tree branches, etc.”
Nothing interferes - select the focus point with the joystick and get to the right place.
Especially on screwdriver glasses.
*
“Auto-ISO has to be used very carefully. If the limit is set high, then you can, through negligence, with a rapid decrease in illumination, screw up a bunch of potential frames. "
I always set a limit to those values when the noise is already starting to bother, in extreme cases there is always noise reduction.
Nothing interferes - select the focus point with the joystick and get where we need to.
Especially on screwdriver glasses
Do you always have time to run and choose joysticks? I do not have.
I am aware of this tool and how it is more convenient, all other things being equal. And about the rearrangement of the frame.
“Auto-ISO should be used very carefully. If the limit is set to large, then it is possible through negligence, with a rapid decrease in illumination, to screw up a bunch of potential frames. ”
I wrote not to you, but to the author of the question.
By the way, I also agree with you that you need to go sequentially, from manual mode, to aperture priority and, in exceptional cases, to shutter speed (if someone is not aware of the obvious, then the automatic modes for shooting animals and sports are built on shutter speed) ...
And if the shooting parameters do not change much, then manual mode will later save on post-processing.
"So it's better not to use P mode?"
Yes, it’s better to forget about it and use A / Av or S.
The manuals for Nikon cameras give very detailed tips on how to configure the camera for a particular mode.
Even to D4 there is a similar manual. On the Internet they can be downloaded and viewed.
Good day! My DSLR Nikon D 90 broke down - in the service center they found a breakdown during the diagnosis - the motor in the diaphragm control unit needs to be repaired; the repair cost is 7 thousand, the device didn’t use much less than 1000 frames, as you think after repairing the Nikon Service Center, it will still serve normally or Do not repair and buy a new carcass?
It's usually not worth it.
Or try contacting another service center where they will put up an adequate price.
Thank you, I’ll try to contact another service center, do you think the price is too high? And who ever contacted Dixy service Moscow?
Thanks for the reply.
Good afternoon.
I photograph a subject in photoboxing. The SONY ALPHA DSLR-A580 camera with a whale lens.
Previously, everything was fine. But now there is a light in the center of the frame. Sample photo uploaded. It mainly appears on dark objects. Tell me what it is and how to deal with it? Thanks.
There is no sample ... Are the conditions the same? The backlight can be caused by the viewfinder or other “holes” along the path of the light
Not loaded for the first time.
A green spot in the center? This is a lens flare.
What to do with it and how to get rid of it?
Remove the filter. Doesn't help - change the angles of the lights
I have a filter on the lens. With a green residual reflex. Can it just be removed? Or do you need to change the angle?
Remove the filter. If that doesn't work, position the lights so they don't shine directly into the lens. For a subject, a completely normal scheme - softboxes on the right and left.
In Arkady's article “How to buy a used faculty, there are such recommendations.
“It is also worth checking the heart of the camera - its matrix. To do this, on a camera without a lens, with a bayonet cap, in M mode, take several shots with long exposure, while all noise reduction functions should be turned off. It is best to use these parameters: ISO 100, shutter speed - 15sec. ”
I don’t understand how to take a picture without a lens?
All other sites say that the picture is taken with a cap on the lens.
Arkady, please explain this situation.
A shot without a lens is taken without a lens. The main task here is to block the light. There will be a cap on the lens, or it will be a bayonet cap - there is no difference. Yes, the camera can shoot without a lens.
Arkady, thanks for the clear explanation.
Arkady, welcome!
I myself am a dentist and a dental photo is present in my skills. I have a rather modest kit that suits me (for now), namely: the D3400, 40mm micro nikkor and the Viltrox ring macro flash. I repeat, the set suits me, except that the two nuances are a little confusing. The lens is very close to the patient’s teeth, this time)) And the color rendition with a ring flash is not entirely correct, but for us it is important. Okay))
But recently, a friend of mine asked me to assemble a similar kit for him with a less limited budget. I grabbed a D5300 and a Meike bipolar flash (an excellent device, for my modest one) on occasion in a very decent condition, but here's a lens ... I took a Tamron SP 60mm F / 2 Macro 1: 1 Di II for Nikon and literally fell ill with it. I don’t understand - can such a lens be so much better and more convenient than a “native” one? Or is it just the length of the fix?
Namesake, did not try to edit the color rendition of the white balance, a gray dot, for example?
And what will it give? Honestly, I did not pay attention to the white balance. He is in the auto on the manual. Not right?
Gives (more correct colors, from your point of view). You can auto, you can try the BB “flash”.
Yeah, thanks, I'll try. I still didn’t get an answer from Arkady))
Technique is a unique joke!
It all depends on personal preference.
I've also fallen in love with Tamron for Nikon, televik. It has cool detail and a crystal outline, which is important when shooting very distant objects ... For my photography, this is the very thing.
And my native 70-200 much less like me. And his contour seems rougher, and the focus is weaker.
I wish I could still imagine which tamron, which 70-200.
Well, 70-200, of course not new, but the first zero should not differ significantly from the counterparts. 2.8, VR has it all. Japanese assembly. The first version does not even have a separate review.
The tamron is dark, but 150-600. And sharpness from 6.3
Naturally, I compare them in good light conditions.
I do not pretend to be artful, the process of clicking the removed birds is just interesting, and I still haven’t played enough)
Tamron: the bird is very far https://500px.com/photo/1006997877/Well-well-well-guys-by-Maria-Bardina?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=1000371731
https://500px.com/photo/1006686017/The-last-ray-of-november-warmth-by-Maria-Bardina?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=1000371731
70 200-2.8 XNUMX
https://500px.com/photo/1004237258/Swan-lake-by-Maria-Bardina?ctx_page=2&from=user&user_id=1000371731 the circuit is softer (in my opinion)
Thank you, impressed.
Good evening, Arkadiy. Come on. I want to buy Tokina 11-16 2.8, or Tokina 12-24 4. I can’t choose a virichiti, a kind of brother. with your own diaphragm and 11-16 wider range of the FR, your own big-sized and 12mm wide, you can have such a portrait of zrobiti, but I’m vaguely if I don’t have a f24 diaphragm in the dark for a good view.
Hello Arkady. Will the battery pack on the D7100 work if the camera itself does not have a battery but only in the baht itself. the pen. Many thanks. Sincerely, Boris!
Yes it will. I have not tried it personally with the d7100, but with a large number of other Nikonov everything always works in such a set.
Good afternoon, Arkady. I have the same question as Shved Yuri wrote above. I also can't choose between Tokina 11-16 and 12-24. The priority is the same - group photos and landscape. I'm leaning more towards 12-24, but is aperture 4 enough?
It depends on the kind of lighting in the room. In the basement, 2.8 won't help either. Do you have other lenses? Take them off in the right room and recalculate the exposure pair. In general, 2.8 indoors, of course, saves ...
It’s all right, alas from the other side of the group, the photos will not be known on diaphragm 2.8.
It all depends on the situation, you can contrive
2.8 for ultra-wide are very specific tasks. Literally 10% of typical, where edge-to-edge sharpness and good depth of field are needed. And these are diaphragms 5.6-8-11. On crop 12-24 will be a more useful focal range, so it makes sense to look in this direction. If you have a Canon - a native 10-18 thanks to the stub will be an even better option and don't be confused by its size and construction - optically it's very good.
The over-wide depth of field is already from fence to lunch, so tasks at 2.8 are quite common, such as interior shooting without complaints, it’s completely rolling
Something sharp in the foreground with a sharp background - for example. Laowa won macro rivets ultra wide. Sharp angles - here, too, hide behind.
An interior shot at an over-wide stub at 4.0 will help more than 2.8 - realtors with tripods do not go.
So in the end, it remains that the over-wide, which needs 2.8 for the sake of 2.8, solves well-readable units. Therefore, I would choose in order of preference according to the total utility of Canon 10-18 / 4-5.6, Tamron 10-24 / 3.5-4.5, Tokina 12-24 / 4, Tokina 11-16 / 2.8
This is when the stabilization boot decides) the angles of the tokens are 11-16 and so good
12-24 I’m more comfortable with tim, I’m in good condition, I’m 11-16. On 24mm I can see a portrait of zrobiti
Yes, 12-24 focal lengths are much more convenient.
Good afternoon, Arkady. Please consult about 0.45X wide converter for 52mm lenses. with macro function
Hello.
Faced with a choice, Nikon Nikkor 18-105 or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G. Which one would you recommend to replace the “whale” 18-55?
Thank you.
Advantages of 18-105 over 18-70 stub and more focus on the long end. 18-70 is a better construct, the m / a mode, 3 ED-elements and the picture are a little more interesting.
Thanks for the answer. I am more interested in which of them makes the pictures clearer, otherwise my 55th is clearly soaping, if you print 10 by 15 photos, or even 15 by 21, then it seems to be normal, but ... not that.
I was 18-105, broke and took a replacement 18-70. Perhaps this is only with my specimen, but on the focal points within 18-24 the 105th was cut, somewhere for the 50th it is better 18-70. And an indisputable advantage is the 18-70-fast auto focus (since I love auto racing it matters to me). Minus 18-70 is the lack of a stabilizer.
For an ordinary amateur photo, these two lenses solve all the problems. And the kingdom of heaven comes when you clamp the aperture on them. Well, they don't like open apertures, even though you burst. And here aperture comes into conflict with light painting and a struggle of priorities begins, depending on lighting, shooting location and a lot of different things, but interesting. You can increase the ISO, but there is a question with the quality. You can put a flash, but it is not always necessary and useful. You can hang on a tripod, but what an amateur will allow you to carry such a weight. The eternal question - what to do? If you slaughter a chicken - there will be no egg. Eat an egg - there will be no chicken.
For many years I shot at 18-105. He with dignity endured -50 * in the North, + 40 * in the South, bumpiness in Kamaz on dusty off-road and many all sorts of "delights" of a camping life. I consider it a worthy lens for an amateur. the lens makes it possible to compensate for its low aperture, if I am not mistaken, then these are three stops - which is not enough.
Hello Arkady! Thanks for the article! Very informative!!! Please advise in choosing a flash, please. Nikon 700, 910, Godos Ving V860. I have Nikon D80 and Nikon 18-200. Actually for home and family and indoor sports. Happy New Year! Health !!!
Nikon SB-700, SB-900/910. Native flash in TTL-mode definitely work better. If TTL is not needed, then you can look in the direction of manual Yongnuo (for example, YN560III, YN560IV, YN560Li).
In general, Arkady has an article: https://radojuva.com/2013/02/nikon-sb-flash-buy/
Thanks for the answer. I read the articles. In the Chinese, the modern battery is captivating. Because I'm not a pro, I'm going to use it only with TTL. How will it work with the Chinese?
Hello Arkady.
It happens that they offer used cameras with low mileage and write that they basically shot video. Or others write the other way around to attract the buyer that the video wasn’t shot.
How do you feel about used SLR cameras, which many or mostly shot videos, is it worth taking them? If you check the frame counter of such cameras, then the mileage will be really small.
How does the camera work mainly in video mode?
Filming a video means overheating the matrix, which means broken pixels, deterioration of insulation and noise are possible.
write that the mileage of 200 thousand frames. but the video was not shot
or the appearance is deplorable due to the fact that they shot the video, but the shutter is almost new!
this is the logic of those who sell
it’s best to buy a camera with a low mileage that didn’t shoot a video)
Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor fits Nikon 3200
Yes
Thank you
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS lens on Nikon 3200
Excellent!