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Hello colleagues!
Share the advice of professionals with an amateur :)
We photograph with the spouse for ourselves, relatives and friends. We love to travel, basically all the photos from there (landscapes, architecture, everything, as usual). Well, sometimes we remove the dishes that the wife is cooking at home from a tripod). Now there is a D3300 and several lenses cropped for it. In principle, everything suits. But I'm a geek in my soul). I love technology and all that. And now the desire to try fullframe gnaws at me ... And here the question is: what to choose? Now relatively cheaper D610 and D750. A little hard for the wife, but she is not afraid) Or maybe Sony alpha 7 III?
I'm leaning towards the D750 for now. Then what is not very expensive lens to start (for travel) to advise him? Or is it mirrorless? Or any other options?
You would have announced the budget for the purchase of the lens. One 24-70 2.8 is inexpensive, the other for 24-85 the price of space
I would look towards A7 (or rather, I’m already looking) ... Or canon. I like their colors better.
If the budget allows, then take a dormouse. Get more videos to the photo. The only thing that count the cost of lenses to it :-)
D610 and D750 are able to video.
Do not change the system. Moreover, on a full-frame Nikon you can use DX lenses in DX mode and vice versa without any problems. And there will be no reserve.
If you want to boom, take one of the fixes for FF. 50 / 1.8G AF-S will work on both cameras and is inexpensive. More expensive than 50 / 1.4G AF-S. 35 / 2.0D, 50 / 2.0D are even cheaper, but the D3300 will have to focus with your hands.
Fixes develop photographic skills well. Now I take 20, 50 and 135 with me for sorties and I have to think and walk, and not stupidly click what comes across.
Buy a good macro lens and you will be happy!
I have - TOKINA BOKINA 90 / 2.5 and LESTER A DINE 105 / 2.8 - and I have them!
Good day! Please help with a choice: sigma 30 mm f 1.4 art or canon ef 35 mm f 2.0 is usm?
I would take my own
And I would take Sigma.
What about the SIGMA 30 f1.4EX DC?
So-so, to be honest. Almost all instances have back focus, if you do not adjust the camera. And sharpness leaves much to be desired. But compact as for such aperture.
Hello! I don’t know if it is possible to put x0.45 or x2.0 nozzles on compact cameras? For example, lumix FZ45? Now I don’t have a single compact, only system and DSLRs to check, moreover, more often the trunk of the compact obika moves relative to the base onto which you can stick the nozzle
Hello comrades. Please tell me who compared the lenses of nikon 50 1.8g and 50 1.8d, is the difference in sharpness on crop too visible? I have a d7100 and now I think it's worth overpaying for the G version if you can use D without a motor. The price is half cheaper.
Thanks for the reply.
Itself was before such a choice, it was on the D7100. You will not see differences in sharpness, except under a microscope, they draw just a little differently. In the non-motorized version, the picture is a little tougher, as I thought. I stopped at 50 1.8D, since the difference in the picture is still barely noticeable, which, indeed, can not be said about the price.
Thank you.
Good afternoon. Tell me who can tell you how the work of the two systems will be combined and what I will lose from the functionality of the Nikon system if I use the Nissin Commander Air 7000 Nikon Radio transmitter on the D1 camera, and the Nissin Receiver Air R Nikon radio receiver on the sb-700 flash. For example: power compensation in TTL mode in the transmitter is -2,0 - +2,0 in 1/2 steps, and on the flash and in the camera, power compensation in TTL mode is -3,0 - +3,0 in 1/3 steps. In manual mode, there is also a discrepancy, and will the modeling flash fire if the flash is not on the camera?
The autofocus highlight in this commander is not a grid, but a spot. You will not focus in the dark. So, in general, the best choice in terms of price / quality. If you had sb 910, you would lose mode A. In general, there is documentation, you can read and analyze it. On the other hand, get the opportunity to use in the radio control mode a good and relatively cheap nissin di700a flash. Better a specific question - I have such a kit
And how do you control the flash from the camera or from the transmitter.
Maybe I misunderstood the question, but still ... in theory, the commander + transmitter is just a radio extension cord and this bundle should be transparent for the camera and flash, i.e. the camera thinks that the flash is mounted directly on it. And the flash thinks it's mounted on the camera. Accordingly, all that (or perhaps a part of) that you change directly on the flash (for example, power or zoom) can be done from the commander. Moreover, you cannot set either the power or the zoom for an external flash from the camera. As for the TTL mode, I use the commander for correction, although, in theory, it should be possible with the camera or even together ... By the way, Nissin has one useful goodness - the ability to control flashes of other systems. see -> https://www.yarkiy.ru/posts/3183-obzor-sistemy-upravleniya-vspyshkami-nissin-nas
The first two sentences are clear. If I take my own flash and control from the camera (the flash is not on the camera and is turned on as a slave) in CMD mode, then I can control the flash power both in TTL mode and in manual mode. My question is: in the nikon system, the division price is 1/3, and for nissin the division price is 1/2, how does it fit? I mean nikon flash, and nissin radio.
Probably by addition :) However, the value of the correction step in the camera, if I am not mistaken, can also be changed. Probably not in every camera, but I saw something similar on my menu, though I never used it. Maybe I remember wrong.
I want to supplement it. If the Nissin system is used as a transmission agent i.e. transmitter with a modulator, then a receiver with a detector (as if the control buttons of the Nissin system are not needed), then it’s clear.
Hello. I bought a Nikon D750 body. I re-read half of the Internet reviews on different lenses. Please advise which lens to start with. Previously, I shot on Nikon D60 and Nikon P510, and a smartphone. Finally got to the dream! :) Priority: street, architectural and landscape photography in distant countries. And the creation and printing of panoramas on canvas (sobsno, for the sake of this, such a high-quality camera is needed).
Interested in your opinion, as Links to this blog are provided by people from various photo sites. Thank you in advance. :)
If you look from the position of price / quality, then fixes - the shiriks of the 1,8G series are just right! If you like zoom, then 18-35 3,5-4,5G. I personally use 28, 50 and 85 1,8G, but I saw the rest of the glasses of this series in operation. 35 and 20 1,8G are also class, and 24 1,8G has a sharpness gap between the center and the edges.
24 1,8 just doesn't have a coma, how the people respond, but I myself can't say anything for sure - I didn't hold it in my hands. But 28 1,8 has it. I say this as an owner. A normal result can only be obtained if you focus on the center point. 50 1.8 - sharp ... that's all .. And the resolution is so-so. But 50 1.4, IMHO, shouldn't be considered at all. Where to shake them off ... 50 mm is a focal running gear for me, therefore, owning both 1.4 and 1.8, in search of the best I came to Sigma 50 1.4 ART. Moreover, after using 35 1.4 ART, 50 1.4 ART bought immediately, as soon as it went on sale. The Nikon 85 1.8 is an excellent lens, the only Nikon I have been using lately. I would hardly buy 85 1.4, even with free money. 35.1.4 from nikon is undeservedly expensive, so I would look towards ARTs. The widths are cheaper than Nikon. But 50 mm is 2 times more expensive than nikon. But this is a completely different level of image quality, IMHO
Congratulations on your purchase. I have the same dream d750. I wanted to find out from you if you took a gray or official camera.
Do not tell me on the Sanyang 10 / 2.8 lens how it is when shooting starry sky and landscape?
In general, a 10mm starry sky is unlikely to succeed. Beautiful clouds or sunset are very.
Why? How much I read, then highly recommend Fock. races. minimum and 10 mm is a very good option.
Too wide angle. You can’t see the stars at all.
https://www.lonelyspeck.com/lonely-specks-ultimate-list-of-best-astrophotography-lenses/ - in this list are among the budget. IMHO, any available wide-aperture shirik is suitable for astorography.
Thank you Roman for the link.
Good evening, I recently got such a lens https://www.foxtrot.com.ua/ru/shop/obektivi_i_vspishki_nikon_nikkor-af-50-f-1-8d.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAkMDiBRDNARIsACKP1FGLhA-FEZ8Mc0-7uAKrvX5t04Uwj49FiJszKPFKTQzUwgIPdmlbL38aAmnzEALw_wcB
question: how to enable autofocus on it. thanks
He is for a carcass with a screwdriver. On it and include if any.
Good day. I want to apologize in advance. Perhaps on this site there is information on my question, but I did not find it. Please tell me which lens to purchase for shooting a city, nature, preferably wide-angle, also for shooting at dusk and in the dark. If one lens cannot contain all the characteristics that I voiced in the price range of $ 300-350 (both new and used), then we remove such parameters as twilight and night time. Thanks.
Forgot to add. Nikon D90 Camera
Good day. I want to apologize in advance. Perhaps on this site there is information on my question, but I did not find it. Please tell me which lens to purchase for shooting a city, nature, preferably wide-angle, also for shooting at dusk and in the dark. If one lens cannot contain all the characteristics that I announced in the price range of $ 300-350 (both new and used), then we remove such parameters as twilight and night time. Nikon D90 Camera / Thank you.
For 350 bucks? Serge, throw this low budget scam. The whale lens is like a flag in your hands. And a tripod is for shooting in low light. "Also for shooting at twilight and at night" tripod. What is on the camera now?
Thanks. It costs 18-105. Whale. But I do not like him, not at all what I would like to get.
And what does 18-105 dislike - is the picture quality or the width not enough? If the former, then maybe tamron (sigma) 17-50 can try, and if the width, then, probably, to the tokins (11-16, etc., I myself have a sigma 10-20 / 4,5-5,6, not bad if b still did not pull the edges).
I came to this forum with the same question - "But I do not like it, it is not at all what I would like to receive." I had to buy a gorgeous lens to enjoy it, but it's not 350 bucks. Tomorrow I'm leaving for a photo tour, well, hold on, my Japanese !!!
Lech, in a week I will unsubscribe - what and how.
And what about Nikon with 10-20 new, maybe it's worth a closer look. I’m just sitting on the canon, I’m not following Nikon
Inspired. Shurik: "I'll sit with Marinka and take a look at the dough."
Namesake, and what prevents you from purchasing a whole line of old manual fixes within the specified budget? Or a reluctance to strain with focusing? There are plenty of excellent glasses for your needs. Even the most simple penny Helios-44-2 (or any other 44th) draws, IMHO, much more beautiful than whale zooms. For a wide angle then it will be possible to buy a Zenitar 16 mm (for your crop it is quite wide). If you want to shoot more distant - again very inexpensive Jupiter-37A or similar Germans are at your service. Even these three glasses will more than cover most of your needs. And yes, the D90 is definitely not a camera that squeezes everything out of a high-end lens, so the options offered are enough for the eyes. The only hitch is that all variations of these glasses for Nikon are more expensive, because require additional dances with a tambourine for infinity. But in the end it's worth it.
Hello, will Nikon D610 fit Tahir 11? Need an adapter? How does the lens behave on this camera? Thanks in advance for the answer!))
The one with the interchangeable shank, Tair-11A, will do. Install the transition ring KP-A / N, and you can remove it. The lens behaves like any manual lens.
Arkady, in the topic about the KO-120M lens, I unsubscribed in the comments, nevertheless I will repeat here:
I have all three (KO-90M, KO-120M, KO-140M), of which, in my opinion, the KO-140M is clearly the best - both in terms of the working distance (it fits on anything) and in sharpness. Examples of photos: http://www.photoforum.ru/f/photo/000/849/849477_23.jpg
http://www.photoforum.ru/f/photo/000/847/847880_23.jpg
http://www.photoforum.ru/f/photo/000/850/850345_71.jpg
If you consider it necessary, I’ll write down a review of KO-140M with examples of photographs, of course, and with a detailed description of its capabilities and my dances with a tambourine around it.
Good afternoon. Tell me how you can determine the real mileage of the nikon d80 if it suddenly starts a countdown?
If a new shutter, then nothing.
Quote from the review of Arkady: After 128.000 frames on the camera, the frame counter turns off and starts counting in the opposite direction. But the mileage of over 100.000 on my copy only says that the camera is really very high quality.
The people, can anyone tell an inexpensive donor under the lens block with a diameter of 82,5 mm? Or just order a turner?
Is it possible with a protective filter with good enlightenment, such as B + W, to compensate for the lack of enlightenment of old Soviet lenses, for example, Jupiter-37A?
No. The filter itself will be useful if lenses are dear to you - it is better to lose it than the front lens of the lens. But even a super-enlightened light filter will not fix the problems of lenses, will not remove additional coloring of the picture (more often insulation), will not improve light transmission, will not eliminate glare, will not raise the contrast. Light passes through each optical element of your lens after the filter, where it is lost, scattered, and so on.
Roman, thanks for such an exhaustive answer!
Good afternoon, I don’t know where to ask, can anyone advise. I choose an examsamera, which is better than sony or goupro? And is it possible to buy used?
Sony has more features than goPro. Goupro waterproof, a special case is needed for Sonya for this purpose. Both videos have the same quality.
Good afternoon! Tell me, I want to buy Nikon D90 + 18-105 VR exclusively for amateur photography, or can I get something old on a Nikon D50 / D80 type CCD with a whale 18-55 + 50 mm 1.8D? At a price about the same turns out. Where will the photo quality advantage be?
If we talk about used Because the technology is not new models, the Pentax K-5 (K-30) + 35 / 2,4 + 50 / 1,8 combination will give the best picture at the lowest price.
If you want a fundamentally Nikon and models from the ones you named, then of course the D90 + 50 / 1,8D. Although the Pentax bunch I mentioned above makes similar Nikon and Kenon glasses and carcasses in the picture in any of their configurations.
The quality of the photo will be the same. The 18-105 lens is the most optimal of all.
please tell me I choose between Nikon AF Nikkor 24-85 mm 1: 2.8-4 D macro and Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D Often I take sports events indoors, usually with lighting trouble. Which of these lenses is more suitable?
Hello
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D or Nikon AF Nikkor 24-85 mm 1: 2.8-4 D Which is best suited for shooting indoor sporting events in generally poor lighting conditions without flash
28-105, if it is from these two.
Galina asked last year “Hello. Tell me please. there is a viewnx program 2. I can not convert nef files. a sign pops up "these images cannot be displayed as raw images or modified because the lens distortion control profiles used on them are not found." how to fix?" I have the same questions.
Surely you will not be satisfied with my answer, but as an option - try converting to lightRoom. IMHO is much more convenient.
Lightroom does not see these files
Well, if none of the programs sees them, then the matter is in the files.
Hello! I have been reading articles / comments here for several years. I used to shoot on Nikon d3200 + 50 mm 1.8, now I realized that it was time to switch to FF.
The budget is very limited, I am engaged in commercial photography. I think that she has already grown from her camera.
I dart around between cameras and lenses.
The gaze fell on Nikon d610 and on Nikon d700 + I plan to purchase shirik and 85mm. I previously thought about taking Canon 5d Mark 2, but I already have a fifty dollars from Nikon (DX), which may help me in the future.
I beg you, help me make a choice. Which camera is better to choose? Nikon d750 is already a little expensive for me, given that I still need to update the lenses. I am considering fast fixes (I think they will be better).
Or already tolerate and save up for Nikon d750?)
Py.Sy: I specifically plan to learn how to film weddings. There already dig up, fill your hand and move on. Need some kind of start-pack.
Everything is simple. Descending D750-> D610-> D700. What will be enough money. If you switch to Canon, you can 5D Mark II, but better than Mark III.
Thanks! I will then save, in any case.
Forgot to add:
help! How many articles I have rummaged through - I haven’t decided yet.
Thanks in advance :)
Tolerate, Ksenia, endure. Save, Ksenia, save up. Because only professional equipment reveals the talent of a commercial photographer. Moreover, when doing commercial photography, you plan to learn how to shoot weddings, fill your hand and move on. Interesting, but what happened until today? It seems to me that there was complete lack of spirituality.
“For only professional equipment reveals the talent of a commercial photographer” - I do not agree with your words. Is that sarcasm. And if sarcasm - it is not appropriate, because the words ala "looking for ff to cut down more at weddings" - were not. And how you perceived - purely your vision.
". I wonder, but what happened before today? It seems to me that there was a complete lack of spirituality." - and then, perhaps not for you to judge.
I turned here for help in choosing equipment, and not for your sarcastic comments.
Have a nice day.
PS: move on - in terms of buying photographic equipment.
Ksenia, do not pay attention. Everyone once searched for something, started somewhere.
All right.
I decided to start with buying Nikon d610 (mileage 30000) + 24mm f / 2.8 mkII AF Nikkor. I already have 50 mm.
Tell me - a normal di kit to start with?
Thank you for taking the time)
Yes, it is quite.
Happy Holidays, Ksenia. be healthy and happy. PS MABulgakov about advice on a cosmic scale and cosmic stupidity has already said everything once….
How's the business trip?
Nikon 17-55 2,8 works at -26 *, - 32 * like a Japanese Seiko watch. The fears of the seasoned were useful, but everything turned out to be positive. The trip was very successful - the weather was spreading in front of us.
On this topic. Seiko 5 bought in 2003. They work like new. So I believe you.
"... the weather was spreading in front of us." - And how did it spread? Where are the pictures?
"... The waves rolled over the pier and fell down with a swift jack ..."
I see the holiday was a success too.
Hello. A very strange lens came to me - a zoom of about 100-300, a Soviet one with a 42 thread. Very long, 25-30 cm, diameter under a light filter approx. 62. Nothing is written, except for the diaphragm - 5-22. Black, with transverse white stripes on the rings. Can you tell me what kind of monster? The owner is old, he no longer remembers where he got it from.
A photo of the lens is needed. So just a guessing game. M-42 thread does not mean Soviet.
Maybe some trophy ...
This is most likely a Vivitar 100-300. The diaphragm is also from 5 to 22, and its filter thread is 62mm. The only thing that does not converge is its length, which is two times shorter than you said, and I have never seen anything like this in a “zebra” color. Perhaps a rare revision, perhaps something else altogether.