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I dropped the photos on the computer and found that some of them are not in the order of numbering (for example:… 83,… 84,… 86,… 85), and 16 frames in a row were not recorded on the card at all?
Tell me what the failure is and how it can be fixed.
Try another flash drive.
I had this with a Chinese memory card. If it wasn’t recorded then these are obvious memory errors.
Good afternoon!
Please help me decide on the choice of lenses. I have a Nikon d3300 camera, a whale lens can no longer give out what I want. I understand that for different purposes there are different lenses, but I have a budget of 40 thousand (I consider second-hand) and I need to decide at least which one to buy in the end. And another condition is that the lens then goes to the next carcass type d7200.
I need to shoot people (portraits, full growth, in the studio, groups of people, at an event).
More photos of objects: food, jars of cosmetics, cosmetics themselves, for example.
Sigma 17-50 2,8, Niccor 17-55 2,8, for example.
I think Nikonovsky 17-55, even used it will be difficult to find for 40000 rubles
In Ukraine b. at. on olx from 11000 to 18000 UAH., in Russia, probably more expensive.
Scattering on Avito in Moscow. The average cost of the 17-55 / 2.8DX is the same as the 28-70 / 2.8 FX.
Those. 35-42 thousand rubles in very good condition.
thanks for the advice, in the end I chose sigma) I even found a used one for 17 thousand, a new one costs in the region of 25 thousand.
For that kind of money ... only chYudo will help you out. Yeah ... But even today miracles happen. Since 1989-90, I have almost factory lenses, 4 lenses are in the closet. Well, who in the Russian Federation, in the CIS, in the world still has glass from Kiev-19 TTL with an N mount in such safety? There are no such more. I answer. And the fotik is not pummeled - the leather case is already shining - I shot 10-15 films.
Good afternoon! Does it make sense to buy a Canon 40d + Canon 24-105 L IS USM today? Purpose: a camera for travel with one lens (the lack of a wide angle does not scare), tests of photo sessions with friends, photography for yourself (there is Helios 81H with an adapter). The budget is 14 thousand UAH. There is also an idea to take Nikon 5100 + 18-140 vr + yongnuo 50mm 1/8. The crux of the question: will there be an advantage in the quality of the picture of the rather old “forties” with “elka” over the newer Nikon d5100 with 18-140vr?
You will not see the difference. But the glass 18-140 is really good.
Maybe Elka will be better, but the point will be more from buying d5100.
1. Newer camera
2. Better aft focus
3mm is better than 18mm on crop
4. the lens has a VR and rubber seal
Section 4 is about nothing. In 24-105 and weather protection (and not a rubber seal as in 18-140) and a stabilizer.
point 2 is also in question: the boot has all the cross points, the Nikon is linear, but the sensitivity according to the passport is slightly better
The advantage of 40D and 24-105 will be, the question is different. Will you see it? And so the 40D, although an old, but very suitable camera.
PS: Shooting in jpeg in old Boots is lame
40d will have DD already and work at high ISO is also worse. D5100 is preferable due to a more modern matrix. Or you can add a bit and buy d7000.
18-140 many comments on the strange work of autofocus, I saw photos from him, at a wide angle it is very bad
And what would you advise on the D5100 as a travel lens?
18-105.
Hello! Need some advice.
I want to buy my wife a new Nikon D5600 camera (now she has a D3100).
The non-whale lens is already there, so I'm only looking for the body.
The run up of prices is very embarrassing when searching for it in stores. From UAH 12500 to 21465, and in two stores (stylus, cyfra) there are even 2 prices: 12700 with a store guarantee and 21000 with an official manufacturer’s guarantee. Really of. the guarantee is so expensive, 8 thousand UAH?
Is there a catch and is it worth paying the maximum and getting off. a guarantee?
Smuggling is always cheaper. I do not see a catch.
There is no difference after the warranty ends. During the warranty period for the opportunity to contact any official service center and pay extra. For money, they will repair everything, in theory. But different manufacturers have different policies regarding non-warranty gray equipment. tampon, if I remember correctly, basically does not take gray equipment for repair, for example. Others, in my opinion, do not care ...
If you screw in a photo, then choose a store where the gray (not officially imported) equipment is cheaper than anyone else ... The main thing here is that there is no hit on a completely fig camera or glass. I have never taken it seriously. It is always necessary to adjust new camera glasses, but… I can do without adjustment. Tolerable. And the savings can turn out to be solid - for an additional lens, or even two. This is how I bought a new one, in a sealed box, with documents, a TV set for Nikon d7000 not for 850 dollars, but for 270. I don’t even understand, and how did they sell it? My lens is no different from the one for 850 bucks. He came to the photo studio as a specialist, used, compared. Even with a magnifying glass. I did not find any differences.
Good day. My first d5100 camera without a focus motor. Now I changed to d7100 how to use the focus motor built into the camera correctly, how to properly wear and remove lenses so as not to damage the motor. On af-s lenses, you need to hide a screwdriver before removing or putting on the lens and in what position to put it when working. How to wear or remove AF lenses? Will the AF-S screwdriver damage the lens if the screwdriver is extended during operation. And vice versa, will the screwdriver break in the extended position using AF-S optics? Thanks for the early ones.
All alarms are absolutely in vain - all procedures for changing lenses are identical to a non-motorized camera, nothing will be damaged (with careful installation, of course - because there are cases of scratching the rear lens of the lens with a screwdriver, well, it is possible to damage the lens on any other protruding part of the camera)
And another question, did anyone use third-party batteries? Which company can you advise?
I use third-party ones, there are no problems. I will not advise the company, because I have written on this third-party Nikon (fake)
I use Newell as a spare on Nikon. Everything is buzzing, only the camera makes fewer frames, if compared with the original.
Hello! The question may be stupid, but I can’t find a clear answer. I have a Nikon 5200 and a 35mm fix. From time to time you have to take subject photos for yourself (knives of your own manufacture). I shoot in manual mode. He corresponded in social networks with one famous subject photographer, he said that you need a lens of at least 60 mm focal length. So I thought about buying a 50mm yongnuo. It is for a full frame, on the crop it will give 75mm. But the question is tormenting. What gives a focal 75mm as a photo, which cannot give 35mm? I don’t understand, can there be some 35mm distortions? Doesn't submit forms correctly? Chew please !!!
Firstly, 35 has quite noticeable distortion; secondly, it gives promising distortions. If you shoot not strictly perpendicularly, say, the handle is closer, the blade is farther, then the handle will appear larger, the blade is shorter, plus the parallelism of the lines will be broken. Look at the site how to remove ultra-wide angles of 10-12 mm, here you have about the same thing, it’s just not so noticeable.
Good evening. Do you yourself notice any distortions (changes in the shape, proportions of the knife) in your photos? The 35th is not recommended to take face portraits - because you have to shoot from a fairly close distance, and the 35, being a little wide (although on the crop it seems normal - the FR is approx. Equal to the matrix diagonal), pulls objects in depth, which is why faces stretch out a little, fish soup go back, etc. But this is all rather subtle, not everyone will pay attention.
I always don't like photos. There is a difference that I see with my own eyes and what I see in the picture. That's why I started looking for answers to my question. Constantly have to expose, so that there is no imbalance.
Probably, your friend is right, if so. I took a clicked knife (on top) at 35 and 50mm, I did not see the difference. By the way, your thought “It will give 75mm for a full frame, on a crop” is incorrect. For focal lengths, it doesn't matter what format the lens is. For example, if you put on your crop 35/2 for FF, you will see that the width will be the same as on 35 dx. And put both on FF - also the same angles, 1,5 times wider, but the corners of the frame with DX are darkened. Maybe you should take 18-105 and select the right RFs?
Focal length 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm.
This is a link from this site. I'm generally confused already.
Dack, the link is correct. I wrote to you that both 35s on FF give the same angle, 1,5 times wider than they on the crop. This is the real FR 35mm. On a crop, any 35-ka will give an angle 1,5 times narrower than on a FF - we get an EGF 35 * 1,5 = 52mm, that is, approx. as 50-k on FF. Accordingly, 50-k, placed on the crop, will give an angle like EGF 50 * 1,5 = 75mm.
And I understand so. Provided the lenses have the same spherical schemes, both for the PC and for the crop. To take a picture of the same scale with a PC lens, you need to move the camera further. But the "disease" in the form of distortion will be the same on both lenses according to 50 mm focal length and distortion, respectively.
Fix distortions usually do not. As you rightly noted before this, this is an imbalance. On a crop somewhere in the region of 80mm and above, everyone will begin to look more or less in the same plane.
It turns out just take the whale up to 105mm and shoot. Still taking pictures on the diaph. 8. But the development of parts on the handle is also important to me. Here are examples on the instagram of my work https://www.instagram.com/antonov_knives/ I don’t like any photos.
If resolution is important, then you should pay attention to macro lenses.
"To take a picture with the same scale on a PC lens, you need to move the camera further." - No, it's not about the lenses, the focal length for all of them (even for compacts) is the same value. It's about the size of the sensor-matrix. 50mm on a kit 18-55 and 50mm on 50 / 1,8 will give the same frames on this camera (both on FF and 4/3). Read the article here https://radojuva.com/2012/10/lens-mm/
Valery, thanks for the link to the article. It is clearly shown what is happening. I took my camera. I photographed a tripod and realized that it narrows the perspective (probably the correct wording). If in words, I see with my eyes a three-dimensional object, the 35 mm lens makes it flat, or rather, as if it tumbles the whole back and the proportions go away. There was absolutely nothing left to do, find a lens that satisfies the needs, tumble a bunch of dough and time while you pick up what you need. Because the knife is not an earring of gold. When you design, you put dynamics, proportions, aggressiveness, etc. into the forms of the knife, and in the photo you get a little squirrel.
This is just perspective distortion 50mm sees something like an eye
Good afternoon! I would like to make a mini photo studio at home for photographing children. Please advise which set of equipment (softboxes, octoboxes) to purchase. There is a fotik nikon7100, flash sb 800, reflectors.
There are ready-made kits, for example, the Elinchrom BRX 500/500 To Go kit with softboxes
https://pixel24.ru/catalog/view/id/33543
Komlekt is good, but more likely for pros than dummies.
For dummies, a couple of flashes from Yagi and a set of radio synchronizers, with Ali.
Good afternoon! I would like to make a mini-studio at home for photographing children. Tell me, what set of equipment (softboxes, octoboxes) to buy? There is Nikon 7100, flash sb 800, reflectors.
To give you a sensible answer ... You need at least ten minutes, at least, to speak quickly and quickly and show, tell even faster ...
Hi, the question is: there is 35mm on a full frame camera. Used as everyday. Does it make practical sense to get 24mm? For a really wide angle. Or will 20mm be more logical? There is a suspicion that 20 is too wide, while the gap between 24 and 35 may not be too noticeable? Explain who had experience.
24 on the crop is also almost a staff, 20 is more or less wide.
“For a really wide angle” - you need at least 12 or even all 10 mm.
Yes, but I'm not talking about crop, but thanks anyway.
Better, of course, take and twist 24-70 / 2.8 to understand which focal point will be preferable. There is already a difference between 35mm on FF and 28mm on FF - almost everything that did not fit before will fit. 28mm on ff can be imitated by putting on 35mm and moving 2-3 meters back. The difference between 24 and 35mm is very noticeable.
Happy New Year! And the Rainbow of prosperity and creative success!
Arkady, with the Holidays!
Happiness and health, as well as great photos in the coming year!
Kind time of the day, if there is a choice between the used nikon D5100 kit and d7000 body (the mileage is the same somewhere), which will be better in the future? Amateur, if you buy lenses then the d7000 will win?
7000, a whale lens can be purchased at the same flea market for a penny
The D7000 has a screwdriver, thanks to which you can use old autofocus lenses without a built-in focus motor. They are often cheaper than their AF-S counterparts, so for the amateur, the D7000 will be better.
And there are many models of these very screwdriver lenses, which at least in some ways win motor? Fifty dollars 2 pieces, yes 80-200. Everything else is either not much cheaper or much worse
And you look differently - at flea markets you can find a 25-year-old AF Sigma screwdriver and other similar lenses. Will a lot of motor lenses be mastered by 25 years of operation in the CIS?
And another point - in winter, at -15C and below, screwdriver glasses will still focus and work correctly, especially ramps of the type 80-200 / 2.8 Mk2, 35-70 / 2.8, 35-105 / 3.5-4.5.
And engine windows are already at -10C. Or you just start to worry very much for them, because AF errors begin, the motor begins to crunch. Here the price is 28-70 / 2.8 or Sigma ART 35 / 1.4 is already different than that of screwdriver lenses.
As for the picture, it's all a matter of taste. For example, I liked 35-70 / 2.8D and Tokina 28-70 / 2.8 more than Nikkor 28-80 / 2.8 D.
In general, the cost of current motor lenses is such that if you do not make a living with photography, then there is almost no sense in buying motor lenses.
Amendment: Nikkor 28-70 / 2.8D.
If possible, then there is a sense
It's like a blonde then - they gave me a paycheck, I'll go buy boots and a handbag, because they're beautiful.
Buying just because you have the money is not always right.
Well, to extol a screwdriver is too much. I won't say anything for the frost, my hands are freezing to take off at -20. But the image of the old screwdriver lenses is quite consistent with their price - for a C grade. Therefore, from the non-motorized only Nikon 10.5 remained
Michael, and how did reporters shoot on screwdriver glasses before? And without autofocus, it’s really terrible. Apparently all of their work was exclusively in C grade.
Don't confuse warm with soft. Reporter pictures of the past years are on the C grade. And reporters' pictures without AF - yes, horror, you just understand and give a discount for the release time. Something worthwhile was filmed at least on the SF, but rather on the BF and this is a studio and a landscape.
Claiming that all their work is a C, add "in my opinion." And about the fact that the stand was filmed at least on the SF and BF, tell Hollywood, which has been filming 35 mm film for so long, and even now has not written off it completely for scrap. An example is Wally Pfister's 2014 film Supremacy, filmed at 35mm and without post-digital processing. Look, and express how Johnny Depp ruined his karma by depicting his face "on a C".
This is a movie, you would also like to add "in my opinion"
In cinema, image quality is also very important, and a frame close to 36 by 24 was used for combined filming in the same “Matrix” or “Indiana Jones”, in the latter, by the way, a special Nikon F3 was used, and the films themselves were shot on a much smaller frame , according to photographic standards for the crop. And I didn’t assert anything, and I don’t dispute the advantages of technical progress, but I don’t allow myself to indiscriminately find fault with past achievements.
55-300 at -35 works easily
but the 70-300 AF-P zoom does not work well, I felt sorry for the lens, although it shot without problems
Take D7000. As it was written above correctly, there are a lot of screwdriver lenses on flea markets.
And they can be suitable for growth - when you switch to a full frame of the D750 type.
It is a pity Nikon did not make an adapter with screwdriver support for Z6 / Z7.
As a result, there is no Sony LA-EA4 adapter for the new system. And it would be interesting to feel them with the Z6 ...
Hello. I want to buy a new camera. I have a Nikon D90, Tamron AF18-200mm and Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4D lenses. I do not know what to buy a Nikon D7100 or a Fujifilm mirrorless mirror (one of the options for the X-T100 Kit is 15-45mm). I understand that they are very different. But I need a fotik for traveling, a video so that it is not very large, it is difficult to carry a DSLR. But on the other hand, mirrorless mirrors are expensive, quickly discharged, and not so durable. In addition, a fixed lens will need to be bought for him, I love portraits. For several months now I can’t solve this dilemma, help with advice.
D7100, especially used will be the most profitable option.
The question is - what exactly does not suit D90?
It’s good to shoot video from iPhones, starting somewhere from the 7th or from Samsung Galaxy S6 and on.
If for travel, then the D7100 will weigh a little more than the D90.
Modern UPC Fuji (such as X-T2, X-T3, X100T, X100F) give excellent color directly in jpg from the camera, without processing. Fuji has good lenses and it is fun to own this brand of cameras. I have the X100T that I have wanted for a long time. In short, Fuji is a chamber for the soul.
On the other hand, KROP remains a crop, no matter how technically sophisticated (like Fuji X-T3) it was. For example, at night you can't shoot with your hands, just as freely as in a full frame.
In a nutshell, the purchase of the D7100 will not give you anything fundamentally new.
Yes, DD is wider. Yes, there will be less noise on ISO800 and maybe 1200. But at 1600 it will be the same.
Yes, sharpness will be higher due to the lack of an AA filter.
*
Fuji will have to spend on batteries, but they are full of Chinese counterparts for Fuji on aliexpress or avito. I myself want to buy the X-T3 + battery + 16-55 / 2.8 + batteries, but it will not cost much less than the Canon EOS R kit (camera + 24-105 / 4). Think about it ...
Daria: can I take an inexpensive one from the range of d40 - d3000 for travel? And easy, and not a pity. If with video - 3100, 5100.
Dasha, you are thinking in the wrong direction. For any “person on the road” the camera must be small, but reliable and, it would be good, with a sharp, bright zoom lens. There are such cameras, but they (German, for example) are several times more expensive than those that puzzled you. is there any alternative? Yes, pay attention to the relatively new zoom-dozerkalki (pseudo-mirrors) from Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm, Sony. In the first brand, all cameras are excellent (!) And vidos.
I think DSLRs are the most superb - not even for a one-day trip out of town. The camera will require at least a decent zoom lens, or better - a couple, which means a wardrobe trunk or a bag, etc.
Good day. My first d5100 camera without a focus motor. Now I changed to d7100 how to use the built-in motor correctly, how to properly wear and remove lenses so as not to damage the motor. On af-s lenses, you need to hide a screwdriver before removing or putting on the lens and in what position to put it when working. And how to wear or remove AF lenses? Will the AF-S screwdriver damage the lens if the screwdriver is extended during operation. And vice versa, will the screwdriver break in the extended position using AF-S optics? Thanks for the early
Nothing to do, use as 5100. Everything happens by itself
Do not forget to ask again. God loves the trinity.
Vitaly, there is some kind of non-pedantic public, write to Nikon your question.
The user manual describes certain points when using motorless lenses. Regarding the manual focus mode, for example, do not forget to turn off the screwdriver on the camera
I like to revise photos from the First Imperialist, Second World War ...
I want to clarify this question. Currently, some lenses are being produced that could be used to photograph, say, an entire regiment, at least one battalion of warriors, so that the face and buttons, badges, each could be seen, recognized?
Glass plates were often used as negatives, for example, 9x12 cm in size. In addition, b / w shooting is always sharper than color.
http://didaktor.ru/istoriya-odnoj-fotografii-uchitelyu-na-zametku/
It was also like that
They are both imperialist and both world. And in fact, not two, but one with a pause of 20 years…. Large format gives such "information capacity" - 9 * 12, 13 * 18, 18 * 24, 24 * 30, 50 * 60
Good evening. I have a panasonic g10 (micro 4/3) camera, I bought a carcass without a whale and used with manual optics. I want a wide angle, but with my crop 24 mm turn into a fifty dollars. The whale is quite expensive to him. There is an alternative to optics from olimpus DSLRs 4/3 mount (not micro), someone even tried such a bunch, there are adapters on Ali)
Or not steamed and buy Zenitar 16 mm?
I want to try landscapes, astrophoto, and some kind of report)
Hello. Advise a lens on sony a65. minolta 50 f1.8 is already there. which is better for the video? does it make sense to take a beer can?
Tell me, what is better to take on the Canon 5D: 24-105 F4 L IS USM or a bunch of 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 II USM + 85mm 1.8 USM? At a price about the same turns out. Purpose: a universal travel lens and the ability to shoot portraits.
Because of the fix 85 1.8, I would take 28-105 into the load. But this is all subjective and only focal. I don't have canon technique. Anyway, I don’t like zooms, only if 70-200 sometimes, when without it you really can’t. I read a lot about 85 1.8, the lens is good, to say the least. Then something else can be taken instead of 28-105. A decent fix portraiture already.
24-105 is much larger and not much lighter. 28-105 will remain a good travel lens paired with some 70-300. I would definitely take 28-105 + 85 / 1.8, there will be more room for maneuver.
more interesting for travel 24-105, for portraits - fixed and, accordingly, the second set
Good afternoon Arkady.
I ask you for help.
I want to purchase a zoom lens (type 18-55) for the Sony A6300.
Already have Sigma 30m / 1.4.
I would like a lens with a stabilizer.
I even considered Sony 18-105, but I’m afraid that it’s more for video and photos will have poor detail.
Thank you.
Good day.
Can you advise a good service for repairing lenses?
There is a scratch on the front lens of the Sigma 17-50 mm F 2.8 EX DC OS lens for Nikon
Not so long ago, in the comments, they voiced the performance in the cold of screwdriver lenses and without screwdriver lenses. When it was 18-105mm, on D90, at -50 *, it worked without problems for an hour. Now I'm going where there will be no more than -30 *, but I'm going with 17-55mm. Now I'm thinking, how will my lens behave in the cold? Take 18-105mm in stock. - laziness does not allow. If 17-55mm freezes. - the whole trip ... will be covered. My laziness is fighting with reason, but I do not see the end of this battle. And what will the experienced, frozen photo-snot say in decent frosts?
Here you are the first "Experienced" and become. Do not forget to unsubscribe what and how.
Am I experienced? Thank you, Lech.
Not yet. As I said, unsubscribe, become.
The fact of the struggle of the mind with laziness indicates the absence of the first. So it’s not your mind that is struggling with laziness
Laziness is the engine of progress. Would a person develop in the absence of reason?
I completely agree with the first statement. But this engine does not always work. Moreover, human progress and development are different. The man he was 50 thousand years ago (and now they say that he is already 100), has remained the same. Even if now he has an iPhone in his hand. Yes, social norms have changed here and there in civilized countries. But as soon as war or famine begins ... Some kind of those. progress began 4-5 thousand years ago, but 96 thousand years before that it was not. in spite of laziness and reason.
He was only walking slowly, primitive people had no time to be lazy, had to run to catch food, and so as not to become food.
I would not torment photographic equipment at -30C.
Already at -18C, problems begin with screwdriver lenses. Trambones hold well. But the screwdriver drive itself starts to twist more slowly and in general both the camera and the lens are already a pity. Yes, and in thick gloves it’s not very convenient to work, and in thin gloves with such frosts you can freeze your hands.
Advise how to get a camera.
Primary requirements:
Mirrorless with interchangeable optics.
APS-C format matrix
Working segment no more than 30 mm
The ability to shoot without a lens.
Saving pictures in RAW.
Outputting photos / videos to a computer in (LiveView) mode
Manage settings from a computer.
Desirable minimum price, and the possibility of acquiring in the secondary market.
I forgot to write, the camera is supposed to be installed instead http://www.rus-camera.ru/FKM-1.htm
Neks do not fit?
Suitable in everything except the ability to work with a PC.
neither nex nor NX alas will not work, at least I did not find control programs from a PC, even paid ones
EOS M10 and M100 are suitable but can eat something cheaper.
Hello everyone! Who is malicious))) Photographer and user / user D3 / D3s / D4! Interested in the opinion of using these units (resolution, color rendition)! Only from users, do not offer links on the internet! Thanks!!!!
and of course, tenacity of autofocus !!!!
Happy New Year !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Arkady !!! Health !!!!!!!
I purchased an adapter (without glass) for Helius 44M for Nikon D5100 (I searched for a long time). Please tell me how to make infinity! I read articles for a week, watch videos. You can tell how to do it right! I really trust your knowledge! And I have been friends and study for a long time. Help me please! Thanks!
http://www.fotuz.ru/78-gelios-44m-na-nikon-beskonechnost.html
I did it like that.
https://slava-zitev.livejournal.com/68733.html
So. Everything worked.
Thanks for the links and for the answer! I really do not want to drill holes in the adapter because I also have lenses Jupiter-9 and Industar. I started with Helius. And there’s one adapter and it’s very difficult to get more! It’s better to cut it as it is right? You can link. Thank you very much!
If so, you have to stretch the optics. We read about the adjustment using the front cogs, but this will only partially bring the optics closer to the matrix. Next, you have to unscrew the rear group of lenses and put rings there as far as possible. But not the fact that infinity will turn out although the focusing distance will greatly increase. The real infinity is not needed in it, anyway, close the diaphragm. The picture will change but will not go bad directly, but will become different.
Juriter-9 and what kind of industrial?
Industar-61L / MS
Sell the canon grower
Well
Adapters M42 - Nikon to Ali are indecently cheap today ...
Buy a dozen - and you will be happy !!!
Saw, just saw ...
Tell me how to cut?
Buy now with a lens) or disassemble-saw the lens
Thanks for the answer! I barely found it without a lens. How to cut it correctly?
For example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecmHMHeKzKg
Или: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvlIjEA6lN0
Thank you very much!