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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Hello everyone! It may be off topic, but your help is very necessary.
There was a need to purchase a microscope with a large working distance. Having looked at the prices, I realized that I still have to save and save, and I need to get out of the position of the ice rink, and after thinking a bit, I remembered that in the garage there was a Soviet UPA-603 enlarger with an Industar I96U-3,5 / 50 lens and two large convex lenses only on the one hand, and there is a webcam.
The question is: is it possible to make a digital microscope using these devices, and how to do it? Maybe buy something or even from scratch?
Maybe someone came across and throw an idea.
In optics, I am a complete zero, so I decided to consult with you.
Thanks in advance to everyone!
If your hands grow from the right place, then you can adjust the lens backwards and get a good increase. For pampering will do, but for something serious alas.
Is it possible to have another lens, so as not only to indulge?
The webcam is not very suitable for these purposes, there are industrial cameras on the ibei (the so-called industrial), now they have a good resolution and the matrix is quite large. Plus, the case already has output jacks for connecting monitors.
But I assure you that a good increase can be obtained much easier. I don’t know your goals, if you would have described the task in more detail, then it would be easier to propose the best option.
Hello Yarkiy. Thank you for your responsiveness!
The purpose of creating a microscope with a long working distance (> 120mm) is as follows: soldering digital technology, in particular SMD components on telephones.
I will be glad and grateful for any advice.
Probably such a thing will be a little expensive, but it is the most convenient for your purposes.
Of course, what you need is worth the money, but at this stage I won’t stretch it. already spent quite a lot on soldering equipment and a separator to separate the glasses from the display. Serious repairs began to be dealt not so long ago from here and limitation. Maybe you can collect similar from more affordable components in Ukraine. I already have a monitor and a tripod, it remains to pick up a camera and a lens, but my hands haven’t failed yet :) Only optics are a dark forest
But in general, strictly speaking, you can easily come up with such a little thing for $ 30.
Hello. I held such a thing in my hands, when setting a less or less normal resolution, the picture starts to slow down, the working distance is not large, and in general it is shaky. But in extreme cases, it’s suitable.
Please tell me how to shoot in a greenhouse (glass ceiling) with a flash (external, but manual).
are you going to shoot there, plants or people?
Softbox to help you!
softbox rolls only for portraits, and even then not group, but a maximum of a couple of people. if bigger, an umbrella is better.
For a large group - a large softbox (or several)))
An umbrella wins only by the speed of putting it into working condition.
A flash in the ceiling does not work? Does glass reflect little?
Shoot people, one person. The first attempt to work with an external flash. I would like to know some minimum from which to start experimenting.
one puff is the minimum. and then you just need to go and shoot.
glass ceiling - it means adding sunlight, why do you need extra. sources? as a last resort, throw a couple of reflections.
We were lucky with the weather and cleanliness of the ceiling in the greenhouse - no flash was needed. But in the neighboring greenhouse there is a dirty ceiling and everything is in darkness, even if the sun is shining directly ...
Good afternoon!
I can’t figure out the flash. As a beginner, they gave me a YASHICA YS 3000.
With a very brief instruction. It says nothing about the SL-Off switch.
But it is written about the zoom, the signs of which I can not detect on the flash.
Is zoom really a hoax, and what is SL mode?
I hope for your help. Thanks.
According to my logic, 'sl' is the 'Slave-mode' of the slave remote flash.
How do you want to 'detect' the zoom? The flash should move the lamp (inside the flash) when changing the focal length on the unit. On different resources it is written that she has a zoom, 18-55mm.
Try searching online for instructions.
From the instructions:
“USING THE ZOOMING HEAD
Set the zoom flash head to the position corresponding to the focal length of the lens for the flash to illuminate at an angle that matches the field of view of the lens. "
So somewhere there should be a zoom head? And something can be installed?
Unfortunately, nothing was discovered on the net.
So the head of the flash is one where the lamp is. The description says that the zoom is automatic. But does it not change the angle of illumination when the FR changes (on a chip-on lens)? What's in the pictures?
I have never used a flash before. Therefore, in this matter, a complete sucker.
As I understand it, they lied about manual zoom. It is impossible to twist anything except the wheel fixing a flash.
"Does it change the angle of illumination when changing FR (on a chip lens)?"
I now have a 50mm f1.8 fix. To check the automatic mode, you need to put a whale? (I have whale and 50mm).
And more about SL. If this is a slave mode, then how can it be checked?
Of course, on the whale check (auto zoom flash). When the flash zoom is working, a buzzing and rustling is heard and behind the glass of the head you can see how the width of the “window” changes, otherwise (for example, in the sb400) - everything is stable, there is a constant 18mm width. Slave is the slave mode, when it is not firing from the camera, read more here. In the meantime, in TTL mode, direct the flash to the ceiling or wall and forward.
The flash zoom is tied to the lens zoom. If the lens is fixed, then the zoom will not work on the flash. Place any zoom lens with AF in the 18-55mm range and rotate the zoom rings to hear how the zoom works in the flash.
Slave mode can be checked by igniting an external flash from the built-in. How to do it: Arkady somewhere described. I can’t tell myself never used.
Thank you all very much. Tomorrow I will listen to the flash. (There is no glass on it). Unfortunately, as follows from the article by Arkady, on my D3200 I can’t ignite the built-in flash. I will master what is.
Vitaliy, how did you come to the conclusion that you can’t set an external flash on fire with the built-in 3200?
You are probably confused with the remote flash control (Nikon CLS system), which is not in 3200. The D3200 camera flash will easily ignite the external flash in Slave mode, the only question is whether the YASHICA YS 3000 has this mode
The flash of the camera (and even the phone) will easily set fire to an external flash operating in the SU-4 mode (for Nikons), i.e. having a light trap, in manual setting. It seems to me that the flash in question has nothing of the sort, even if TTL worked. And I meant glass behind which a lamp; from where puff.
Yes, indeed, I did not understand that Arkady wrote about controlled ignition (CLS), and not just ignition. The flash is set on fire. Moreover, it worked spontaneously several times when the ceiling light was turned on in the room.
But it was not possible to hear how the flash adjusts when changing focus on the whale lens.
And window size changes are not visible. Although the TTL light is on.
How else can I test the flash response to a change in focus?
I bring two control shots with different focus.
If there are no reactions to the change in focal length, probably there is a constant wide angle, I don't know how else to check. You can do different experiments, for example. Does it shine equally far on FR 18mm and, say, 105mm?
Here is the zoom operation on the Nissin Di-866 flash
https://youtu.be/gXXA5JFp_Lw
Good day. Gentlemen, tell me how to be. Change your 50mm 1.4G to 85mm 1.8D. The difficulty is that I originally wanted to change to 85mm1.8G. Carcass D300s. Thanks.
Task dependent
G - better, sharper, more plastic, lighter, not in such a killed state can be found from the hands.
If you choose version c / 1,8, then definitely vote for G.
task to take a normal portrait. I do not rent weddings. For myself.
as a portrait portrait 85mm will definitely be better. both waist and height.
The G-version will seem to be cut open.
Yes. But ... wanted the g version. Suggest D. So the question is whether.?
My friend has 85 / 1,8D. The sharpness above the roof is enough. Used on the D3000 and D600.
Greetings to all! I would like to understand the issue - the camera has exposure metering modes: matrix, center-weighted, spot - everything is clear with this ....
We put a flash on the camera and set the mode to Auto without TTL. It turns out that only the flash measures the exposure, and what method of metering is selected on the camera does not play a role?
Yes, the flash measures the reflected light through its own built-in photosensor, resulting in approximately matrix / weighted average metering, excluding the color of objects. That is, the metering method selected on the camera does not affect the flash output, but affects the exposure settings if 'slow sync' is selected.
Good evening everyone !!! Tell me if there is a difference between 7100 and 7200 (only color rendering and focusing speed are of interest! Thank you !!!)
The matrices on the devices are exactly the same, so the color rendering in RAW will be the same, the color rendering in JPEG may be slightly different (the manufacturer may have slightly modified the image processing algorithms, but maybe not.)
The focusing module on the D7200 is slightly modified, the declared sensitivity is '-3 to +19' versus '-2 to +19' for the D7100. That is, in theory, the D7200 should focus better in low light conditions. In good light conditions, there will be no difference. (I really like the way autofocus works on the D7100 after the D5100).
But how is the color rendition compared to 5100? Does it make sense to change ????
Many people say / write that the color rendering of the D5100 and D7100 is significantly different, especially in JPEG.
I shoot relatively little in JPEG.
From my observations: the devices have a different white balance 'out of the box', IMHO, in the 7100 it works a little better, but it still requires a little adjustment both there and there. But there is no big difference in color rendering.
And so, a little test. General conditions: shooting from a tripod, descent using a cable, autofocus in LW along the bottom of the basket in the center of the frame, Nikkor 50mm F / 1.4G, F / 7.1, ISO 400, Picture Control = Standart. Reduce the photo to the same size.
Above device 'A', below device 'B'.
On the left side of the image, the light source is a camera flash 'to the ceiling' + a reflector card on the object, exposure 1/160, Balance = 'Flash', intra-camera JPEG without any processing (downsize only).
On the right side, the light source is the Maxus ceiling 'housekeeper' (power like 26W, declared color temperature 4100K). Exposure 1/5. Shooting in RAW, developing in lightroom with identical settings (white balance, manual exposure compensation, camera profile 'Camera standart', no color correction).
Here is a question for connoisseurs, where is the device? )))
PS in the left part of the image the light source is a camera flash mounted on a table, approximately 45 degrees to the lens axis, triggered by a radio synchronizer.
7100 bottom
I think 7100 from the bottom, a red channel is added.
Thank you !!!!
from the top color more like
lower sharpness higher)
It's not worth comparing in terms of sharpness - a slight focusing error is possible, since it focused once for a series, then turned off AF. When switching modes, the device could move a little. The task of comparing sharpness / detail was not worth it, and the 'still life' did not fit into the depth of field :-)
Looks like 7100 at the top.
oh, opinions are already divided)
Yes, stab yourself already! :)
Hello! Advise 1-2 lenses for the Nikon D750 (zoom and fixed portrait) for a reasonable price (I will also consider options from Sigma, Tokina, Tamron) if you convince me that they are better than the Niko (n) (r) ovsky ones. Thanks!
I don’t see any reason to convince you of anything.
You’ll figure it out yourself.
Thank you friend! Your help is invaluable ...
always at the service.
Here Arkady and others advised, advised, discussed, discussed, and you want again, individually for you?
and this is something that the regulars of the forum would not hibernate.
Tamron 70-200 2.8vs will be an excellent option for a portrait zoom lens. If you also need a fix, then 85 1.8g is a good option. As for the second, I will not particularly convince - there are simply no other options for such a price, but as for tamron I will say that it is not much inferior to 70-200 2.8lis2 from Canon, so for its price the glass is gorgeous.
Good afternoon. I want to ask the opinion of people with experience. Nikon D7100 camera, I want to buy a flash. After reading a lot of information, I settled on the choice of price / quality / experience / financial capabilities for the Nikon SB-700. But one person advised me “why pay more”, take Meike MK910 or Yongnuo 568EX. I liked his opinion, given that you have to pay less. After reading reviews of these three outbreaks on this site, looking at the reviews on YouTube, I'm completely at a loss. I agree that the original is quality, etc., but please advise ... what to choose? Who has experience with these outbreaks? HELP !!!
Miser pays twice.
For third-party manufacturers, TTL is especially lame for Ewing, especially in difficult conditions or when working on reflection from the ceiling.
And third-party vendors are not so cheap now that it makes sense to underpay. This is when they cost 2-2,5 thousand, then yes. Better to find an unbroken sb700 from the hands.
buy a new sb700, and do not suffer.
If you want to enjoy shooting - then I agree Lynx - take the SB-700, this is the best option.
You can look towards the Nissin Di-866 markII, but with ergonomics and settings it is a little worse.
For it happens that the pleasure of saving money in excess is blocked by the displeasure of using the item.
however, it is noticed that such pleasure is usually short-lived.
I am sure in my life that a miser pays twice. I was already tuned in to the SB-700, because I myself love quality and for a long time. But the advice was not given to me by a deletant, but by a person who runs a photo studio and takes pictures of weddings, etc. He also told me that the Chinese used to make bullshit, but now they seem to have improved the quality and it is quite good recently, he recommended Yongnuo. But the opinion of one person is only the opinion of one person. Therefore, I specifically write here, where as I understand people know what they are talking about. It's just that the price is several times higher. If the new Chinese is 2600 UAH, then the SB-700 is about 6000-8000 UAH. And he claims that there is no difference.
Vladimir, it all depends solely on the tasks in which you plan to use the flash. For amateur use, take the Yongnuo 568EX and you won't regret it. If you are planning amateur use with the use of radio synchronizers, look directly at the Shanny SN910EX-RF for Nikon - a flash with a built-in receiver, however, there are few failure statistics for these flashes. More information on all these outbreaks can be read at http://strobius.com.ua, eg. As a rule, most breakdowns occur during the first time of operation - look at a working used Yongnuo 568EX. Soon I plan to exhibit two of my 568EX on OLX, really in perfect condition - I want to change to two SN910EX-RF + transmitter :).
Well then, you can also YN565EX instead of YN568EX. The difference for the amateur is only in the absence of radio synchronization.
and TLL at Yongnuo is such that it is better to immediately turn on manual mode. unfortunately, I did not use Nikon branded flash units
Colleagues who shoots at 70-200 / 4 af-s can you throw off a couple of raw photos ?? Thanks!!!
Hello! I am tormented by the purchase of a camera. pliz tell d 810 how it behaves in the reporting ???
better than the D800, but much worse than the D3S or the new D500 (cropped sensor). You are doing the right thing, that you are suffering - 810 is not the most reportage
And how do you know how the d500 behaves? it’s still gone!
the logic is this: crop is literally created for reporting, and therefore any camera starting with D40 is suitable for this noble task as a report.
D810 is heavy in weight.
I did not have a D810 but there is a D800e.
poorly suited for reporting, his tasks are studio, subject, landscapes.
Nikon had the legendary D700 for reporting, but it was completely outdated.
there is no replacement, with a stretch it is D750 but with a bunch of castrations and restrictions.
but there is no less legendary reportage from a competitor - Kenon, of course, this is the 5D Mark 3.
Crops are not always convenient for reporting - because of the noisy high ISO, as you understand, it is far from always possible to put a light and / or a tripod :)
there are still good reports more expensive than $ 3500, but IMHO, this is already beyond good and evil and they are bought by those who do not ask questions about the choice here)))
PS
D500 is not there yet, it is unlikely that there will be high ISO better than FF cameras.
D500 tasks - sports, photo hunting and other events where high ISO is not overly critical. segment Kenon 7DM2 with the same goals and objectives.
yes, it is heavy ... ... but what about 7dm2
and what about it? excellent balanced crop, sold new at a price of 1100-1200doll.
in general, it is a little bit simpler than the expected D500, for some items - better, for the price - 1.5-1.7 times cheaper.
if there is no set of glasses and you need a top crop, 7DM2 will be the best choice, if there are already a lot of glasses for Nikon, then it is probably better to wait for a reduction in the price of D500 or buy D7200.
What are you taking pictures of?
to different devices :)
on FF if in the studio and on Panasonic 100 or Olympus mikru if traveling.
FF is heavy :)
but I don’t need to shoot competitions and I'm not fond of photo hunting, so I don’t need a top crop.
yes, I have a dilemma! so the work started that I have to shoot fashion shows (not VIP-level, but still need to be done well) and I don’t know what to do….
everything is simple - you need Kenon 5D Mark 3 for these purposes.
I'll wait a little before looking at the Nikon D500 and then I'll look at the prices and something must be decided. thanks for the advice!!!!
Thanks again!
Well, if it’s on fire, buy a D810, no one says that this is a bad camera.
pliz, who knows how to turn on the sound when you shoot a video on nikon d 7000, why the sound is turned off, I accidentally returned it once, but now I can not ((((
Read the instructions for the device.
Selling Kaleinar-5N (excellent portrait on nikon - amazingly beats off the background and has soft bokeh)
100 / 2,8, without alteration sits on a nikon.
optically - 5+
cosmetic - 4- (no hood)
Mechanics are ideal.
4500 rubles or exchange for an Instax SHARE printer. Or to another optics, I will consider options (Helios 44-2 - do not offer!)
Shipping in Russia
Will you change to Helios 81N?
No. Already have, and I’m not particularly interested in fifty dollars
Hello, is it possible to buy an adoptall-2 replacement shank for nikon somewhere in Ukraine? one site was published in Google, can you tell me more resources? through ibey it will be too long after all ...
Question for Fotika, do not give the tilt shift lens Nikon PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f / 2.8 Arcadia for review? Very interesting technique.
Hello everyone! I would be grateful if anyone shared the experience of fine-tuning the autofocus to 7100. Over time, I figured out that the backbone on the carcass is decent, but how could I more accurately calculate it without a trusted lens?
Beck is not on the carcass, but on the lens, most likely. The settings are in the “wrench” menu “3rd page” “AF fine-tuning”.
Set the target, the distance is approximately average, depending on the width of the angle, focus, shoot, look, correct in plus or minus and again focus, take a picture, view, and so on until the desired result is achieved or a nervous breakdown with a cry - fuck it all !!!
Good luck.
Background: I bought 7100 and put 35ku, which fired accurately on the previous 3200, - misses. I put half af - five with a minus, I put 28-105 not to understand much
I correct 35 ku better but not ideal. I put the new 35 ku the same. It starts to dawn that the problem is in the carcass. Carcass at minus 10 35ki are leveled, half to the front. As a result - a carcass at minus 5, 35 ki at minus 5 in the saved ones, half a ton at minus 2. More or less, but at 35 kah there is no former sharpness, although everything is accurate on the target. I understand that it is necessary to dance from the carcass, but where can I get an accurate lens? There is no service in the city.
What modes do you focus on and which target are you using?
Sorry, Yuri. You will send a photo device from Canon and Nikon. To capture the nature of landscapes. A good clarity of the picture is welcomed. Color reproduction and detailing was not the last in the picture, too. The camera is not just for shooting as a casual lover who doesn’t care about the quality and it’s worked well so that I can paint an artist from the picture to redraw the picture the main thing \ the detail is smoother soon I mean the clarity is not too deliberate and the color rendition \ can not be at a high level. let's say 4 rating.
I've just described similar jambs today about the d7000. And he also noted that fixes (especially many who lived with me 35 1.8) are often smeared on d7000, but they definitely beat on younger models. I don't know what the trick is, but the fact remains. Personally, I correct the situation either by scoring my own correction in d7000 for each desired lens, which I determine by poking, or I simply do not use glass on this carcass. Alternatively, if you have time and nerves, go to the service center, they can help there, but it's not a fact that after setting up the carcass and 35s, they will not smear the rest of the glass.
I noticed that on AF 35mm 1: 2D, in D800, there is the largest focus correction (about -15), All other lenses require much lower values (from -2 to -8), and the larger the focus, the less the correction. If the service software did not shift the focus of the camera, an adjustment in the settings would not be enough for 35-ku.
Probably 35mm is the most poorly focused focal one in Nikon :) In general, an interesting trend. And on the carcasses without adjustment have not tried - does it smear?
I haven’t tried this 35-ku, the rest of the lenses (50, 85, 185mm) on the S5Pro work fine, however, in the best direction, I also set up autofocus, and there is more DOF with it.
Here, on c5, too, almost no lens seems to smear, and on the d7000 many people need adjustment. Apparently, nevertheless, the matter is in carcasses, and not in lenses.
My 35-ka works perfectly on the 7100, like all other glasses, however. A small complaint is only to 70-210 f4, and then only as to a telephoto, because from a short distance it works fine.
the D7000 is one of the worst, unstable AF modules.
commenting on his work is difficult :)))
he lives his life)))
Yes, claims to its autofocus started right from the moment of its release. Well, and, which is logical, claims mainly appeared from those who shot them with high-aperture optics. With a whale 18-55 or 18-105, he seemed to have no problems - and that's good :)
the darkbands have a large DOF- AF problems are masked.
on high-aperture optics on the open all the "sins" of the AF climb out.
the most popular aperture lenses on crope is cheap 35mm 1.8. hence, apparently, complaints are precisely at this distance))).
I agree, one of the cheapest fixes, and the focal lens fits perfectly on crop as a staffer, and therefore there are most reviews.
Everything is in the alphabet of focus on the point of the diaphragm open iso 100. The target is a cut square with a cross at 45 degrees to the sheet
it is possible that the bayonet mount in the carcass is skewed. it is often found in nikons, I had it in the D800e.
corrections partially solve the problem, the image still does not become sharp across the entire field of the frame.
People tell me, there is a choice between Nikon D7200 and Canon 7dm2. (only pliz without religious wars !!!) We need the advice of photographers who came across these cameras! Thanks !!!!
I would dance from the glasses. You will decide what you will immediately buy with focal points and what you will buy later, in the future. Each brand has good offers. Describe your desired set of optics.
D7200 - castrated, cut everything that is possible, including the buffer. DD is better than canon.
kenon 7dmk2 - much better AF - crosses, crosses))), much better fine adjustment for zoom, nothing is cut off - in fact, this is a 5Dmk3 carcass with a crop sensor. huge buffer.
strictly speaking, these are cameras of different classes, D7200 is an amateur one, a canon top is a professional crop.
analog of kenon 7dmk2- nikon D500, comes out in late April.
see for yourself on the glass; the choice of Kenon is more, including fast aperture 1.2 fixes.
I wonder how much they want for d500
A lot, just more than 7dm2, because d500 is just coming out. From the glass dance. The difference in the price of carcasses plays little role.
top-end glasses - at kenon it is better but often and more expensive. there are no high-aperture fixes for Nikon and will not be - problems of the old mount, so the autofocus 1.2 will not appear on Nikon.
Structurally, Nikon has many lenses with focus shift problems, the lenses themselves use the old design, which even sigma and tamron have abandoned - they use the modular design of the kenon in their new developments. Again, fluorite has been used on kenon lenses for a long time, BR is already in use, and nikon has just begun to master fluorite technology.
in extreme cases, you can put a Nikon lens with AF confirmation on the kenon through the adapter, on the contrary - you can't))).
And no one spoke about top glasses here, as well as about fluurite, as well as about f / 1.2. No need to write the same thing wherever you get. Promising technologies are of interest only to those who are going to use (and buy) them, and the potential of the system is bullshit. When using mediocre glasses, switching from Nikon to Canon, Fuji, Pentax and vice versa is not difficult and costly
which are promising? you at least tensed and looked how many years cannon has already been using fluorite and how many decades - AF lenses with 1.2.
if you need mediocre lousy glasses - it's easier to buy a mirrorless like Sony A5100. or buy something at all)))
investing $ 1000-2000 (carcass + glass) without potential and without the possibility of expansion is probably a very sensible idea! )))))))
for D500 they want $ 2000 per carcass.
7dmk2 can be found for $ 1200.
while the carcasses are equal in class, in function, something is better in Nikon, something in Kenon.
IMHO, there is not the slightest sense in overpaying $ 800 (!) For the D500.
for the money you can buy a very good glass)))
or wait until the D500 gets cheaper to a reasonable $ 1300-1400 per carcass.
very interesting ... and worth considering ... Thank you!
Seven.
If you forget about the glasses and don’t know why you are taking the camera, then purely in terms of parameters 7dm2 is cooler. However, again, for the landscape, the d7200 will be slightly better due to the wider dd and higher resolution. Nevertheless, it is important to know why you need a camera. Maybe d5100 is enough for your purposes, and maybe 1dh is not enough :)
Pastor, I agree with you, but firstly, if 5100 is not enough and 1dx is too much ...? and secondly, a person is such a creature that you always want something a little better (IMHO).
Well, if purely out of interest to try what is better, then I would definitely recommend 7dm2. I personally have nothing wrong with buying just because I don't want to see it, I dabble in it myself :) 7dm2 is gorgeous in the report, in fact the same 1dx is only cropped. Autofocus is better than 5dm3, the rate of fire is higher. What was pleasant to me at the first meeting - the workers of the ISO have increased noticeably. I have an old 7d, it is better not to put even ISO 1000 there, but on 7dm2 in general, 1600 is very clean, even 3200 with an interference fit. The d7200 has 3200 workers without interference, but in fact this is one of the only two advantages of this camera (the second is the dynamic range). In general, I would still take 7dm2, nevertheless, professional equipment is more interesting than amateur.
As I understand it, pastor, are you also shooting several systems?
Yes, only two, Canon and Nikon (and fuj with their mount). I tried to take Sony DSLRs, somehow they did not take root.
That yes ... I'm kind of a Nikonist too, but the announced d500 in 2000 nikon makes you think about moving somewhere in a cheaper niche but also in a cool quality ... alas ....
If there are not many glasses - why not. Not even alas)) You can treat a fotik with a whale like a soap dish, for example. And life will be easier.
there are no new cameras “cheaper”.
The cheaper ones are used and old cameras, among which you can choose.
I want to try out macro assets, like May. Nikon d700 camera.
Assist in the identification of warriors, the nobility, and the associates.
1) Sound language with two ob'єktivіv -
Know the axis of such a kіltsya for z'єdnannya
Male to Male Coupling Step Ring Adapter 49-62 Dual Male
http://ali.pub/2i8d2e
62-49 Nikon 70-210d f / 4-5.6 f32 + Pentax M 50 f /1.7 to f22
Nikon 85d f / 1.8, (Ø 62) to f16
62-62 Nikon 70-210d f / 4-5.6 f32 + Nikon 85d f / 1.8, up to f16
62-67 Nikon 70-210d f / 4-5.6 / f32 + Vivitar MC 28mm. f / 2.5 // Nikon af-s 50mm f / 1.4G
Nikon 85d f / 1.8, (Ø 62) to f16
67-49 Tamron 28-75 mm f / 2.8 f32 + Pentax M 50 f /1.7 to f22
Yaka zvyazka will be a nice option?
Also, I think to try with a reverse macro adapter:
Ø 62
Nikon 85d f / 1.8, (Ø 62) to f16
Nikon 70-210d f / 4-5.6, (Ø 62) to f32
Ø 67
Nikon af-s 50mm f / 1.4G (Ø 67) to f16
Vivitar MC 28mm. f / 2.5 Auto Wide-Angle Lens PK Mount up to f22
Tamron 28-75 mm f / 2.8 (Ø 67) to f32
After reading your articles, winnily bazhennya take up macro zyomkoyu. Especially, it is necessary in detail to transmit other words, Kavi grains, for example http://wilgon.ucoz.ru/novyj_risunok-84.png Bigger. How can you achieve the result of a Nikon AF 105mm f / 2.8D Micro-Nikkor?
Pavlo, the more glasses the worse the picture. I will tell you how to get an increase of more than 105mm 2.8.
You need a reversible ring for your fifty dollars and two sets of macro rings, the usual ones are not autofocus, they are very cheap. Such a bunch gives a very large increase, but you need a good flash and a lamp is more powerful for focusing.
Dyakuyu for vіdpovіd, in less than є manual 50ka pentax 1,7 і kіltsya on the pentax, then for the most part, does it mean the need to go nikon-pentaks? But what about the theory, but for macro broad-shouldered people, is it reversed to zooms with great focal points (views 150_)?
please tell me how to correctly output the jeep from Capture nx2, namely what to do with the icc profile because I noticed that if you uncheck the jeep, it looks more saturated, how to do it right thanks.
Who dealt with the D3200, please tell me if this is a defect or not. In M mode, manual focus is not accompanied by a visual cue in the viewfinder (“quotation marks” if focus is achieved). In other modes, the “prompt” for manual mode works.
In general, as far as I know, on all Nikons, focus confirmation is a continuously glowing 'dot' in the lower left corner of the viewfinder (green), and not 'quotes', or something else there.
Is the 'rangefinder' enabled in the settings?
I apologize inattentively read the instructions:
“Select On to use the exposure indicator to determine
the camera focuses correctly in manual focus mode (042; keep in
Note that this function is not available in shooting mode M when the exposure indicator
instead shows the correct exposure of the subject). "
And the green dot is for autofocus.