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Hello! please tell who knows what about the lens: Samyang 650-1300 / 8-16 MC IF
I know that it is blurry and muddy. A friend took a cheap price for the sake of 1300mm. It turned out that it was easier to scribble images from my 150-500 sigma - and that worked out better. Of course, if the camera is small-pixel, sprinkling will be inconvenient. But all the same, this samyang is of little use in real shooting conditions. Only a tripod, good weather, no backing, and very weak requirements for the final picture.
I wanted to try out continuous aperture priority shooting on the D3200. It turned out that continuous mode only works when the flash is off. And we could not find turning off the flash as such. You can select automatic mode without flash or, for example, “Sports”. Can't the flash be turned off with aperture or shutter priority?
Flash recharge time is much longer than shutter speed. Therefore, for continuous mode (continuous shooting), flash photography is not possible.
serial - only with constant light.
Puffs do not have time
This, depending on what puff))
With the SB-900, for example, 2 to 5 frames can be taken, depending on power / distance / aperture / Iso
Wow! As many as 2 !!
Well, a series Well))
On average, three frames shoot: in a relatively dark sport. hall, with a dark 70-300, Iso 1000-1600, a distance of 10-15 meters.
how brutal a stern man!
I set up an experiment with YN-568: 1/128 power, a series of 28 frames (4 frames / sec) - each frame was with a flash. It no longer depends on puff, but on battery charging and “on power / distance / aperture / Iso”
Good evening, tell me how to determine the real mileage of the Nikon D90 or 5100 series
according to the data in the EXIF file frame.
The camera records its mileage, and you can check it with any program that looks through exif.
google "nikon mileage viewer"
Do I ask for advice? I bought a vivitar Series 1 28-105 lens on EBey. received today and was upset. I put it on my D80, transferred it to the manual, the aperture showed 22, although it was 2,8. F90 began to close and the readings became unreal ... I began to twist the lens and noticed that the diaphragm would not close ... I twist the ring, pull the lever on the bayonet, 0 reactions. Now I read in the net: “Doesn't close the diaphragm at all. Aperture in oil (a disease of these lenses). Spins smoothly. " it's not about mine. Is the diaphragm covered in oil and the petals are buried? And is it even being repaired?
It is necessary to disassemble. Either take the risk yourself, or look for photo enthusiasts in your city. Including on the forum the club photos of these live.
Thanks. The problem turned out to be that there are six positions in the modes menu, but no more than 4 are displayed at the same time. Moreover, in the machine - the first 4, and the position "continuous mode" is visible. And in manual modes, only the last 2 appear, and the “continuous mode” position is not visible. The fact that the list is scrolling to me did not immediately reach :), and I connected the “absence” of the tracking mode with the inability to turn off the flash.
Recently I got my hands on a Pentacon 100 2.8. I'm surprised that nowhere are there any normal reviews and comparisons on it. Throughout the country on Avito it is sold in only a few places, and the price varies from 3-4 thousand to 11. I took pictures on it and came to the conclusion that it is better not to wait for super sharpness from it on the open (apparently spoiled with modern lenses), but at the same time the drawing is very decent, even a sinful thing I thought that it was better than Jupiter 37a in terms of the fact that the focal length on the crop is more convenient, the aperture is higher, shutter speeds can be used longer and at the same time the sizes are comparable, even a little shorter. Maybe some of the members of the forum used this glass, share your impressions, or even on the club. There are no reviews for it. I want to determine if software for 2.8 is the norm for him or I just have such a copy.
I don’t even know how to say it, but on this site of the St. Petersburg photographer, one of the photos that is below under the inscription “Rate examples of work” (4th photo), in my opinion, is Arkady.
http://photo.youdo.com/photo/photoshoot/winter/pv/spb/
Anon, and you are not the same St. Petersburg photographer?
So what? This is a site for freelancers. Arkady registered there as a freelancer and posted examples of his work. What is your interest, is it not clear?
I didn’t post anything there, but I do not mind :)
Listen, I wrote because alien (in this case Arkady) photographic materials could be used as outsiders by my own photographers. Nobody canceled the copyright.
Yesterday I tried to shoot the moon on D5100 + 70-300. Autofocus misses a bit, but still gets. Po tried to manually focus with the help of the drug with an increase: it did not work, because I see a black sky and a bright white moon on the screen (no textures are visible even with magnification). Tell me how to solve this problem?
And another question: is it possible in one shot to shoot the moon in the night sky (so that all the spots are visible) and light clouds illuminated by the moon? Or is it only gluing two frames together will help?
Exposure in the manual?
Yes of course: f / 8, 1/500, ISO100
If there are no clouds at night, then I will try at home through a LAN.
So that it was beautiful only to glue, the brightness of the moon is, well, much larger than the clouds. And changing the shutter speed directly in liveview does not help to accurately determine the desired result? on my 5200 in liveview you can see the result of the exposure before the shutter is released.
For some reason it didn’t help, although I was counting on it. Perhaps due to the fact that the moon occupies a very small part of the frame.
Try to change not the exposure of the frame (shutter speed-aperture), but exposure compensation, on some photos it is it that is responsible for the brightness
about a month ago I shot the moon on the DX 55-300mm. made several takes at different exposures. there was not a single miss with autofocus.
Look at exif.
As far as I remember d7100 + 70-300.
Photo taken at night.
It's night too.
Here in the evening.
Thinking with clouds is easier in the evening at dusk, not at night
People, share your experience on the topic "Cleaning the camera matrix". I just can't decide whether it's worth bothering with self-cleaning or it's better to give the camera for cleaning to those who position themselves as professionals in this business (from 1000 rubles for cleaning). So far, I myself have tried only to blow with a pear, having previously fixed the camera on the tripod with the hole down. The result did not satisfy me - I blew off a couple of old dust particles, but added four new ones in the process. Buying special mops and cleaning yourself is somehow scary - there are a lot of reviews on the network from those who have not the most positive experience with mops and special napkins (lint, stains, scratches). If someone has a positive experience, share what exactly and how they cleaned.
Read the special topic on this site, there is a sea of information and opinions.
I read a special topic on the site, I did not immediately find it, sorry.
Yarkiy, and what kind of miracle sticks that ultimately suited you? Are they immediately sold with impregnation, or do you need to drip Eclipse 2 on them?
As a result, after all the misadventures with self-cleaning, what result have you come to for yourself - next time will you clean yourself or nah-nah-nah (send it to a professional cleaning)?
They are absolutely dry, I wiped them with stains that remained from the soaked mops.
I will tell you so, if you have a couple of small spots on the matrix, then forget about cleaning, seriously, do not give a damn, they do not stand cold sweat and the feeling that everything! Kick, come, well, what a damned fuck I shoved my hands in there! And the main thing is that it’s disgusting, it’s my own fault, no one forced, and the guys still dissuaded, but no bl. we ourselves with a mustache.
Good day to all!!!!
I ask for help in consulting more experienced people !!!
The choice was to buy FF. So I want to ask which one to take:
1 5D
2Ds Mark1
3. 5D Mark2 for another money is not enough !!
I photograph amateurishly mainly traveling, nature, portraits !!!
Thanks to everyone in advance :)
Old "ones" have an unpleasant feature in the form of nickel batteries. You will have to repack it with enelups and have a second one in reserve. until you fully discharge it, you cannot charge. For travel, it will be decent in weight. 5D2 will probably be optimal. Two years ago I was choosing between 5D2 used. and 6D chose the latter, each with its own + and -.
And if you consider option 5D generally worth ???
Thank you
1 is more of a “soulful” tool than a convenient one. Due to the batteries and the weight.
However, picture and AF are certainly better.
If there is an opportunity to choose between dimes - of course the second. At least because of the normal screen. But the first is quite an option. I would be guided by “murder”, not a specific model.
Thank you very much Ivan for the tip.
Do you also think that the first nickle has a very decent picture and many write that it is better than the second?
I found the first nickle with a range of 9t on the body is generally ideal.
And mark 2 approximately for this money $ 600-700 will be with mileage 400-500t.
It’s scary how to take such a miracle !!!
Thank you.
Ask how much you will change the shutter to 5D2 in the local workshop and see if the game is worth the candle.
Doubtful pioneers without a run ...
However, anything is possible. Try, when you watch, to shoot a series at 1/8000 (with the owner's permission, of course) - 10 frames. If the mirror slams “evenly”, then, most likely, the shutter is really alive. And pay attention to the release button - is it loose.
50000 for mark2 without shutter (or almost without shutter) I would not give. Not, of course, he can also pass lamas if he is lucky. Or maybe at a sales audit to eat.
I won't say anything about the picture - it's too subjective. Someone drags on from Fujdi, someone from Olympus, someone from Pentax or old Nikons. To understand if you like the picture, in my experience, you need to live with the camera for at least a week.
By the way, for that kind of money, you can look at the Sony A850 - A900.
Why do you need the severity of traveling ??
if you want with replaceable canon lenses - take the baby 100D.
or better, the new Fujikovsky 70X (or, if cheaper, then the X-M1). Or Nikonovsky from the new DL series. IMHO - more than enough for travel.
Or from the P7700-P7800 series
And of the above - the first penny, if it is cheap. The main plus is good quality with "not scary to break"
“I became a choice in buying FF”
well, there are two options - the first dime, because it's cheap and cheerful, or dx - because it will be a very impressive view while it is in a backpack or a hotel room.
2 options are the first or second dime. Which, obviously, will be in hand and in action.
However, I climbed for some time in my hands with 1D (six months, approximately) - and was happy with it for these six months. And then, yes - a mirrorless.
It is difficult to choose something out of these three without knowing all your preferences. If you need a video, then here without options 5dm2. If not necessary, then it is already more difficult. According to the picture, as for me, 1dcm2 is generally gorgeous. I know several photographers who have 1dx and at the same time left 1-2 1dcm2 in their arsenal, both for weddings and for themselves. Still, the camera, unlike the 5d series, is reliable, secure, fast and easy to use. And it's easier to pull raves from it, and you don't need to buy a batblock. As for the batteries, they can always be ordered in China at a very humane price. The main thing is not to take a completely killed or with a mileage of more than 150 thousand.
5dm2 is the most modern and, at the same time, according to the picture, as for me, the most unsuccessful. I changed 5dm2 to 5d and have no regrets. On the other hand, these are all my troubles, but in general, thousands of weddings, portraits and landscapes were shot on 5dm2, the camera is excellent.
5d is a cheap ff. If you just want to try full frame, don't want to spend a lot of money, but want a decent result, this is the best option. It's hard to figure out the mileage, but if it looks like it's not dead and the shutter works out for short exposures, then everything is ok. The batteries are the same there as, for example, in 40d and 50d. I have all three cameras and the batteries work without problems at 800-1000 frames per charge.
The conclusion is, if you are too lazy to drag 1dsm2 and there are no good options at the flea market, then take either a newer 5dm2 (although it could also be driven into the tail and mane), from which you can check the mileage, or for the sake of saving 5d and the first one and leave money about stock to replace the shutter or other such carcass. I took 5d about a year and a half or two ago, and while pah-pah-pah, everything works.
Please tell me for what kind of shooting is the purpose filter of the NS7-4 × Zenit brand?
The brand is not important, no zenith or no zenith, it is a regular neutral gray filter, used to lower exposure, or increase shutter speed. The Internet is full of descriptions of how to use neutral filters.
Please tell me how much is Jupiter 17
from 200 to 2200 rub
It seems to me that it should cost more - very reckless. Never saw.
but who needs it even for a thousand ??? to nobody.
Collectors take even more unnecessary things for a lot of money)
By the way, according to the Ju-17 scheme, it is a rare hybrid zonnar-ernostar.
it is not directly related to photography
The question from the very beginning had nothing to do with the photo, so you didn’t write right away?
the question from the very beginning was related to the photo.
Ahahah, noticeably.
Please tell me where to find a review on the Tilt-shift Helios 44-2 (analog lensbaby) lens.
Oh, this is inconceivable rubbish - there is nothing to survey. The front half of Helios-44-2 (or even the entire lens unit), tucked into this toilet plunger (plumbing cuff) ...
These crafts are made from dead helios, which are no longer good for anything. Their price is no more than 500 rubles ...
You can buy such a little G-44-2 and assemble it yourself in 30 minutes.
PS The result, of course, can be obtained from this garbage, and it’s quite suitable. But I want to caution against buying these things (as well as these Lensbaby) from traders - sponsor crooked speculators.
Good evening! Please tell me whether it is worth buying a Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f / 1.8G lens at
Nikon D7100 camera if there is a Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4D. They say 35 will be a little wider. Help? Feel the difference? Worth Spending?
You ask yourself why you need it, expand the viewing angle or visually improve the picture?
50 tired, or something. I want to try something new. Rather, the picture is visually improved. Or you want to shoot on another lens. Advise! Pliz!
35ka the picture does not improve, it will only take wider. For a landscape it’s good, for a photo of people in a full-length room, it’s also not bad. But a portrait or something objective, 50mm look much more profitable due to less perspective distortion and more pronounced blur. Both of these lenses are good, but as practice shows, after some time of use, preference is given to one of them, and the second dusts more on the shelf, and it seems that a fifty-fifty is more often on the shelf. Now, after various castles with optics, I personally would take for myself something of high quality and universal type 17-55 f2.8 and 70-200 or 80-400, but not as a replacement, but in addition. At least one fast fix should remain.
ATP, very intelligible and to the point! True 17-55 f 2.8 can not yet afford. I read about Tamron AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 it seems much cheaper. Is it worth taking it?
A successful copy of Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 will be quite sharp with f / 2.8, good as a station wagon, but don't expect a 'nice picture' from it - the picture is 'normal'.
Well, the spread between copies is large - choose carefully. The lens is skewed (when any of the corners of the picture is 'blurry'), misalignment, etc.
or is it the same whale 18-55?
Many thanks to everyone for the advice and comments. After analyzing your opinion, I came to the conclusion that because 17-55 f 2.8 is not affordable, Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4D is still the best option (kit 18-105 is available, respectively Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 does not make sense to take t as the picture will not become more beautiful). I will improve my "skill" by fifty dollars. Help in one more question. The same D7100 - a lot of photos require additional light, i.e. flash because built-in does not work. There are shadows on the faces, etc. Long dreamed of purchasing a separate flash. It's worth it? If yes, I figured the NIKON SB 700 like that - this is for my level and capabilities. Help with practical advice. I am very grateful to everyone in advance for their help!
I need to take puff of course. and if you also buy a second puff, then the picture will obviously improve. sb-700 is the most.
of course you will expand the angle, but visually nothing will be better.
worth it. and sell a half.
It’s worth taking a flash, as I understand it, why sell a half?
the flash is worth it, and half a ton is needed, due to its low versatility on the crop
You recommend a flash and 35 1.8, as I understand it, and sell 50 1.4?
I personally did just that.
Although he did not buy a half - he tested it and took 35 mm at once.
I think nothing prevents Nikon and Kenon from inserting third-party glass detection into the camera firmware and periodically cheating with their AF. Well, what would a stupid consumer, having been tormented, all the same crawled back behind his native glass.
Again, all sorts of tamrons and tokens can be made offers that it is impossible to refuse.
which they most likely do.
the same nikon with the release of new firmware often "turns off" AF for third-party lenses, as it was recently with old sigma.
and the unpredictability of AF in the same sigma on canon is difficult to explain only by the problem of reengineering.
they have a right! ))))
Good evening! Help identify the cause of the cloudy image in the viewfinder.
I bought a used Nikon d3100 today. Fuzziness was noticed in a new mail. But the reason is thought to be fogged lenses or improper diopter settings. All day ph. the house is warm. (in fact, condensation should not be anymore). I wanted to adjust the diopters, but I did not notice the difference when scrolling the wheel (everything is cloudy, even the division of the exposure meter). Moreover, the pictures are clear. What could be the reason and how is it treated?
I also noticed that if you look into the peephole not directly, but from above, then the lower part of the picture (including the exposure meter information) becomes clear. I think maybe the lenses have shifted there ???
Try removing the eyecup. It helped me.
Why do you think it was sold?
Look, maybe someone with his fingers focussed the focusing screen.
Without an eyecup, everything is the same, the screen seems to be clean, not flap, nothing hangs inside.
Well, they sell for all sorts of reasons, it happens because of the transition to another technique, it hits - money is needed ...
I still hope that this is just a strong condensation, which will disappear over time, as it blurs exactly when you look at the center of the eye. If you move the eye to the side, up or down, part of the image becomes clear. Maybe someone else has come across a similar one? Can condensation stay indoors for more than 8 hours?
Thanks to everyone who responded!
Strong condensation can settle in a haze and generally remain forever, or it can dry out in a couple of days, or maybe in a couple of hours. I would have made a choice - either to score and shoot as it is, or go to the master. Perhaps there is a penny job - to disassemble and wipe, or maybe something needs to be changed there. In any case, diagnostics usually cost a penny. Check it out and be calm. The main thing is that the photos are taken normally, everything else that does not so much affect the final result of the camera's work is easier to treat.
Thanks for the reply.
Today I tried to twist the diopter settings on my d300. It turns out that if you give it strongly to +, then the same effect is obtained (both the picture and the exposure meter indicators are blurry). He returned the wheel back and everything became clear. And on the d3100 wherever you go, everything is blurry. My vision is kind of normal.
Is the diopter adjustment wheel itself broken or jammed? Did you try to pick it up, press harder when twisting? Maybe something inside the torsion mechanism got dirty ...
Thanks. I will twist more. )) Although it is spinning in the same way as on the d300. Is that inside something is wrong.
Most likely the focusing glass and / or mirror is dirty. Then remove the lens and wipe both of them, the screen may also have to be removed, but very carefully, without dust.
If it is worse, then another option is possible - condensation or dust from the inside of the viewfinder, then the master for disassembly and wiping.
Thanks, Lynx. Is it possible to wipe the focusing screen? I will try to remove gently and blow with a pear. And if you still wipe, then with what? The mirror looked, sort of clean.
you can .. but sooo carefully. if he is the cause of pollution, then he cannot be washed with a pear, and if he is not, then pears are not needed
I understood. Thanks for the advice.
but if you are afraid, it is better, of course, to drag them to the masters.
If honestly, I looked at him and a little dumbly poking around. Yes, and there are no plastic tweezers. It will be necessary to google another video in the evening. I called the seller, said the ph did not drop and did not repair, I did not notice the soap in the eye (Although it may be deceiving). But there are no signs of a fall in the hull. As for the service, we don’t have any sensible ones (it’s better to do it ourselves) or send them to Kiev (maybe someone knows good SCs in Ukraine?)
It may fall on the carpet, no external signs of falling, but if the pictures are sharp, then the focus is not damaged. And it is not necessary to remove the plastic tweezers, glue pieces of paper or fabric on a regular iron and voila.
Thanks. And what to wipe so as not to damage ??
If in place, then with dry mops from Ibei, and if already taken out, then only fluffy microfiber, not the one that wipes the glasses, but which is sold in hardware stores, looks like terry towels. Get used to cleaning all photographic equipment with this microfiber, and mostly dry. If wet cleaning is necessary, then only with clean drinking water, moisten the tip of the microfiber cloth, squeeze it well, wipe the desired place and wipe it dry with the dry part of the same cloth. This also applies to optics. The main thing is no chemistry. Good luck.
Thank you, kakraz there is such microfiber)) I will wipe.
Who knows how to deal with the yellowness of the image and these terrible dark spots around the edges?
And what is this rebus? Live view screen? Could you provide and ask something more specific and clear?
I apologize, there are just so many forums around topics with topics about these cameras, canon fdt and canon pellix, that brains are already boiling, and apparently, I found this peeling of the mirror layer at the pentaprism, although I could be mistaken for this model canon pellix
I attach images
And this
Frankly, I pass.
The question remains open
I would suggest scoring this and shooting further. This does not affect the quality of the image, although, I admit, it annoys the same in the viewfinder.
annoying it's very softly said
But alas, it is unrealistic to quickly and easily restore coverage on a pentaprism. Not to mention the need to disassemble the device
It will not be easy at all, and it’s not at all necessary for me personally to do this, just maybe someone knows an intelligent master
You would have voiced the country / city, or else, maybe I have a good friend in New York, so sending you more expensive repairs will come out :-)
Moscow, Russia
In the spider city, everything is there!
Most likely, your focusing screen has become cloudy and dirty, it stands in front of a prism mirror, the original screen costs about $ 300, you decide ...