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here's another
Was this photo taken in Petropavlovsk? (joke, if anything)
About Petropavlovsk - subtly!
The background in the photo reminded me of Alexander's stories :)
the process of rolling a three-honeycomb - first crop, then FF, then mirrorless, then superzoom, it will end on soap dishes and goupro
and more
and last
animals
what do you think??
Well, why are ultras in front of DSLRs all bad? For some tasks they are better. Do modern ultrasounds probably have more than 500mm EGF? It is problematic to remove the same with a SLR. Or this: going to a folk event, I took a compact and a ZK with 55-200mm, so most of the shots are on a compact, and you can’t tell. Well, I said that in good light, reportage, landscape shots and a soap dish will normally take off. The same applies to your photos (however, for some reason, the first one made my neck numb). But when I want to shoot something creatively and better, I take the ZK. Let me give you a couple of examples.
more
and children
I really like my old Panasonic FZ50 ultrasound, for some tasks it’s quite good.
Internal zoom and focus (the lens never changes its size, any filters can be used).
The matrix on it is CCD (1 / 1,7 ″), it starts to make a noticeable noise already from the Iso400.
Optics: equiv. FR 35-420mm, aperture 1/2,8-1/3,7.
But getting a well-blurred background is very difficult - the background must be very far from the subject, the depth of field is huge due to the small matrix.
But it perfectly removes the average macro, it is enough to wind a simple macro lens + 2 / + 3 (and there are no terrible distortions with a macro lens, unlike lenses for ZK).
For many tasks - a very suitable apparatus, with a sufficient amount of light.
Another plus in comparison with a DSLR is that it can work with any flash at a minimum shutter speed (1/2000), without any tweaks and FP.
Hello everyone! I read a review about the Canon 20D, and somehow I understood very little. I want to hear the opinions of the owners about him. How are things with color reproduction and the pattern as a whole. Is it worth it to buy now or buy it more modern? (there is an opportunity to buy for 100 cu, 25 thousand run).
And what is your budget? And now Df will advise ...
I have 1100d and say say 100 extra.
So the color rendition is very good for the old canon professional crops. And the reliability is pretty good too. But in comparison with 1100d, you will lose not only in resolution and in the absence of video, but also in working ISO. If you want to take a camera for the sake of trying professional ergonomics, then the option is quite suitable. Fortunately, you can sell it at any time at the same price that you bought, it has nowhere to get cheaper - so cheaper than many soap dishes.
Well, and still lose in the screen. after a good display, it’s very inconvenient to evaluate a picture by a tiny one.
Acquired 20d. Impressions are only positive. Of course it loses in iso, you can't argue with that, but ... Example of pictures
more
Yes, 20d is loved very much for its colors and "lamp-like" quality, even 40d loses to the twenty in this. And even more modern crops and even more so.
In addition to reduced exposure, I see nothing, even crack.
photo from 1100d is better for me ...
revered) of course I do not argue that the UPC is much superior to zooms. I myself used (took pictures) d600 d7200, d3300 - I liked the first one more)) and I took the zoom for myself because of the multiplicity, well, I like it - what can you do here? if I take the d3300y, it is simple and for seven and traveling, in my opinion, with my head. well, + a couple of wide and portrait lenses, and a whale of 200 mm commercials is enough.
So you are in the subject, and I am explaining something to you on my fingers, I advise you to use a DSLR ... Well, if you have "rested" in your hobie to the limit of using a compact - welcome to the club of budget wasters for expensive fotozatski.
embezzlers? nothing like this! mine costs 19 rubles, and for example, the same d3300 is 25 rubles with a whale. then I will use it (I will love it), it just attracts the view (as well as the absence of aberrations, but the presence of air flows.) on batteries. in general, in terms of quality, I am for bzk, and in terms of magnification for zoom.
RUB 25 + a pair of 20 lenses + puff ... However, turning to the secondary housing can save up to half.
I would like to learn art photography. Even at that zoom - it will go to start, as I understand and buy it. there is simply no “traveling” mentor nearby
In my opinion, you can also learn art photography on the Internet, starting from this site, + articles from photo magazines, blogs, + more serious books, they are mentioned here. Good luck!
but it's interesting - can you learn the basics on a simple soap dish ?? here is an example of a photo (in technical terms of possibilities) the guy did not move quickly
If the soap box is controllable (in terms of exposure settings, etc.), then it’s quite.
An artistic photo, as a rule, implies bokeh. And on a soap dish, it is difficult to achieve because of the small size of the matrix. In this photo, you just captured the moment for which the soap dish is actually needed.
It is very sad that the concept of “artistry” is associated with blurring the out-of-focus area, and not with composition, color, light, etc.
if you study the composition of the frame and other artistic moments, then you can.
even on an iPhone.
Can.
Help me understand why. I got a Nikon D80, and it has such a problem with clarity. True, there are no aperture blades on the lens with which this photo was taken, but I think that in this case this does not affect.
Read the article “About DOF (Depth of Field)” on this site and you will be clear about this effect. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/11/hyperfocalnoe-dof-main/
I know about this, am I interested in the presence of a blur problem even in the depth of field zone?
the lens lathers. If this is a zoom - this is normal, more or less sharpness for him, if a manual - it depends on the lens itself, maybe this model is not capable of more.
And this is a photo from a new lens tested in a store.
So if the camera gets into focus with a new lens and there is no problem with image transfer - could the problem be with the faulty lens?
It gets into focus, but the image is not sharp even with a new lens from the store, although the image is still better.
It seemed to me that the photo with the cash register was normal in sharpness. In any case, mm-divisions on the ruler should be clearly visible (in the flu zone; I suppose there is no movement). If it lathers with two lenses, probably show it to the service.
In the store, too, in blur, but a little, on the reduced one it is not noticeable. There is no movement, I'm going to carry it to the service, I just would like to have a rough idea of what it is about.
take a picture of the ruler as vertically as the store door
Yes, there is such a soapbox controlled. that picture on the machine
That's about it.
Good day to all.
Please help me choose a telephoto lens.
There is a Nikon D300s. Kit lens and 50mm.
I wanted a good TV.
I choose from used options in the secondary market. Budget up to 50 thousand rubles.
1-80mm f / 200D ED MKIII
2. 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF
For filming children, competitions and active games. (Job at summer camp)
PS I choose taking into account the crop factor ..
70-200. Stub and speed in this case is more important than aperture.
I would not recommend a telephoto without a stub. It's not even about compensating for blur in the final photo, but in the process of focusing. At 70-200 4 from a canon without a stub, I had a hard time catching a picture on a 200mm crop. Autofocus points run like crazy across the viewfinder, especially when he himself ran before shooting :) But the stabilized 70-200 taken instead made shooting noticeably easier. Ideally, you would, of course, have aperture and a stub, but still, first of all, a stub is better. Choosing between 70-200 4 with a stub and 70-200 2.8 without it, I would choose the version with a stub for reporting. Now with a stabilized 2.8 I generally enjoy shooting, especially after 70-200 4 without a stub. And if there was no money, then I would have enjoyed 4 with a stub. By the way, Nikon's 70-200 4vr is very successful. Maybe for portraits it would be important to have 2.8, but for a summer camp, a stub and fast autofocus are clearly more important.
Thank you very much for the clarifications. So I will buy 70-200 F4.
Spend, please, a brief educational program on outbreaks.
There are TTL and manual flashes. TTL flashes for Nikon are their own, and for Kenon - theirs. It's clear here. What about manuals? Can one and the same manual flash be put on Kenon and Nikon? Or does the answer to this question depend on the specific flash model?
you can set any manual flash (from modern ones, don’t even try to set flashes from film times - you can burn the camera at once), it needs only the shoe itself and the central contact to fire.
Actually, in manual modes, you can even use Nikon's on Canon and vice versa.
But purely manual flashes are cheaper and simpler in themselves (and for remote work, they are more suitable on photo stands). The most common is the yongnuo company, its 560 series models are one of the most convenient - high power at a low price and general fool-resistance.
Understood thanks.
In the manual, the power of the flash must be set manually. With the M mode everything is already clear - a full manual. :) How does the camera behave in the P, A and S modes?
oh, I won’t say for sure, but as far as I remember, he sneezes at the presence of a camera on it and “trying to choose the parameters to his taste and color, without taking into account the flash.” Accordingly - overexposure.
I understand, this is bad :( I'll have to save up for a TTL flash then.
depends on tasks.
in some cases, TTL flashes are not needed at all.
But from this place in more detail, please. :)
Suggested types of shooting: family photo, shooting your child at a matinee, occasionally shooting in a studio. I don't like the built-in flash. gives too hard light and not always enough power.
Yongnuo YN568EX, costs $100, you won't have to save up for a long time :)
But for some reason they don’t want to pay salaries in dollars :((
TtL is not needed for studio and other similar shooting, when the flash is most often set separately, and the power is selected depending on the required pattern. But if you assemble a “home studio”, then one flash will most often not be enough, and here it is better to take at least two, for example, Yongnuo 560.
For sequential shooting, such as a matinee, it is certainly better to have TTL so as not to waste time picking up power in case of changing lighting.
In your case, the best option, IMHO, may be to buy a used sb-700 or sb-600. This is approximately 7-11 thousand. The main thing is to take from an amateur, so that the flash and the lamp are not killed by weddings, for example.
Slightly cheaper, but worse options are the meike 320 or the already recommended Yongnuo 468 or 568 models, but keep in mind that third-party flashes do not always work correctly with TTL metering, especially when puffing to the ceiling
How can we verify the fact that “the flash and the lamp were not killed by the weddings”? Melted, cloudy or discolored plastic will immediately catch your eye. But almost killed electrolytes indiscriminately flash - you can not check. Or are there any external signs?
drive the seller's phone number into the Internet search ...
if there are a bunch of links “filming weddings, love stories, and so on” - then the dude most likely used a flash and merges it.
usually they write in the announcements that "only amateur use", well, it is useful to check this way.
...
clouded plastic, scuffs, especially on the shoe and buttons and so on .. do not check otherwise.
With a phone, this is an idea ... Thanks for the idea!
oh, I won’t say for sure, but as far as I remember, he sneezes at the presence of a camera on it and “trying to choose the parameters to his taste and color, without taking into account the flash.” Accordingly - overexposure.
Administration!
I earnestly ask you to transfer this scum strip from left to somewhere to the right. It is impossible to read the latest comments, neither on the laptop, nor on the phone, anywhere.
Thank you in advance!
Best regards,
Your humble servant
+1
It's weird, but it doesn't bother me at all.
I don't like it either, it's good at least transparent. A small button, with an up arrow somewhere on the bottom right, would be correct.
But in any case, the author certainly knows better.
I read regularly from a 7″ tablet, the strip causes inconvenience.
Sites with a button are better for convenience.
Arkady, thanks for the attention to detail.
With the button now I do not accidentally fall into the strip on the left “up” when scrolling the page.
Dear photographers. Already somehow asked here about this lens Rustar 2. Really no one has seen and heard? Google does not give any results.
.
examples of photos from him
.
the focus did not reach the model, it can be seen on the paving stones
and what, a nice beautiful piece of glass. If it's not expensive, it's generally good!
Goodnight. hard to find the answer to your question clearly. I am not a professional ... I often take pictures at children's parties ... I miss my flash (external). can you tell me how to add light? I'm waiting for the answer! preferably something that is optimally convenient and inexpensive))
two flashes.. three flashes. On racks around the perimeter of the room “to the ceiling”
.........
But in general, it’s hard for me to imagine that a more or less standard flash, such as sb-700, could not illuminate a small children’s holiday when shooting at focal lengths from 20 to 85.
I’m shooting canon 500d, Yongnuo flash - I don’t remember the exact model (I’ve had it for a long time) .. maybe I don’t set the camera settings quite correctly .... but it seems to me that there is not enough light (especially in dark rooms
Well, firstly what kind of wing, they are different in power.
Secondly, if it is manual, you probably don’t expose something.
Thirdly, if you are trying to shoot at 200 mm with a flash, it is clear that it will not really illuminate anything for you, especially if you hit the ceiling.
Fourthly, Ewings are not very good at TTL if they raise their heads - they give overexposure or underexposure, this is a misfortune especially for old 468 models and other similar ones.
You can look for your native Nikonovskaya. 430 they seem to be a good amateur.
the old man is a flash. “In the fourth, the yuings are not particularly good at TTL if you raise the head - they give overexposures or under-lights, this is a problem especially for the old 468 models and other similar ones” - that's right) thank you very much for the advice
* Native Canon. There seem to be some reviews on here.
430 is great. And in the ceiling and forehead in TTL mode.
Guys, I'm sorry that I'm pushing myself into Nikonists with such a question (disclaimer: I don't blame any system and I don't sell my own to anyone). Interested in 2 questions.1. Who used canon 7d or 7dm2. and 2. advise fifty kopecks on it. Thank you. PS I read a lot about them, but it is important who has practical advice. Huge gratitude!
I have 7d, 7dm2 I only held it in my hands a couple of times, until they even managed to shoot properly. In general, 7d is a reporter crop, a reinforced concrete machine gun. Fast, reliable, convenient. But as for the picture, especially for portraits and all that creative stuff, it’s not a super option. In addition, at high ISO 7d it is quite noisy by today's standards. 7dm2 has a much better matrix, ISO 1600 is very clean. Well, it is faster and even more secure, as the manufacturer says (at the 1dx level). I would take fifty kopecks 50 1.8stm. Inexpensive and quite high quality. Better in terms of autofocus than 50 1.8 2. 50 1.4 didn’t impress me - the sharpness is not enough, there is ha, I didn’t like shooting at 1.4 - for which I didn’t understand the overpayment. elka is good for creativity, but the price and software in the open annoy me personally. But someone is delighted, if there is money, you can take it. There is also sigma neart 1.4 - not bad, but with jambs in autofocus (IMHO, it’s still better than native 50 1.4 in the picture). And there is sigma art, which is really great - excellent, sharp and colorful. But it needs a dock and its price is considerable. And there is also a tamron almost fifty dollars - 45 1.8vs - a rare feature in half a load - the presence of a stub. According to the picture, judging by the tests, it is again better than native half-toses (well, except for the Elka). Well, since we went for an extension - there is an excellent native pancake 40 2.8 - it makes me very happy. Sharp with an open, does not smear, a little bit at all ha.
That's the thing, I want to take the Nikon D750, and to it a universal telephoto camera of about 24-70 with AF, most likely used, but good enough, the price is around 15.
Next fix for portraits, AF is no longer required, around 10.
Well, after that, take something like 70-300, for everything else
Advise on the characteristics with a good picture, a purely physical I can not review all the reviews.
And if someone already asked such, sorry, did not find.
70-300 is very suitable for portraits.
dragging something for 15000 you can’t buy a GOOD telephoto 24-70.
a good fix for 10 .. well, you can find a manual if only.
70-300 current if for children from afar and nature.
Tamron 28-75 / 2,8 I looked at at this price. There are in the reviews. In principle, I liked it, but did not take it - the rear lens with a scratch. But Nikon 80-200 / 2,8, the 1st series still, I took it, despite the fact that I have 70-300 / 4,5-5,6. I shoot sports without flash, 70-300 is very dark.
Good day. Tell me if the Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor lens (2 model) will function normally on the d300? I read that it can not transmit information about the focusing distance to the camera. Will the focus be normal on the camera?
Yes.
it will focus, there may simply be problems with TTL flashes, overexposures or oversights, but this is from the situation.
Tell me please for Nikon 5100 like this SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 50 / 1.4 M42 lens
like manual.
You can only focus at close range, or reworking the lens, which is hemorrhoids. Look at the manual Nikon 50mm F1.4 of any version. Or Helios 81N, 123N aka Arsat. Make sure with the seller that he is under Nikon, and not M42.
Thank you
Takumar 135 / 3.5, too, only redo? And so the lens is good or not? What else can you advise? Calenar 5n what say?
Yes, you buy at least some!
It is problematic to use lenses with an M42 threaded mount on Nikon. Look for Nikon mount lenses. Decide on a focal point, for starters, otherwise 50 and 135 are completely different things. From the Soviet good ones: Mir-24N 35 / 2.0, Helios-81N 2/50, Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100, Jupiter 37A 3,5 / 135 (make sure that this Jupiter has a replaceable shank for Nikon). These four lenses cover most popular focal lengths except wide angle. Your task is to choose a focal point.
Thank you