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Comments: 8 628, on the topic: Question-Answer

  • anonym

    Good evening! Tell me, is it possible to assign some kind of function to the video button on the D7100, if so, how to do it? In the manual about this I did not find anything.

  • brighty

    Not only in the manual, but also in the menu there is not a single option for using this button for other purposes.

    • anonym

      Thank you! It’s a pity that there are so few programmable buttons in this camera. I recently purchased it, now I’m learning it. Can you tell me about some pitfalls?

      • Yarkiya

        Yes, she has no pitfalls, well, maybe she loves good lenses, but again, it depends on what tasks. Well, it would not be bad to buy quick memory cards and preferably a couple of the same. The files are large and the buffer is small.
        Yes, by the way, I remembered one underwater pebble, it doesn’t write sound well in a video, in a vending machine with a remote microphone, it’s better not to even try, the on-camera, built-in microphone is also tin, only a high-quality loop and only on manual settings. Better yet, on a separate recorder.
        In general, the camera is specific, like firm hands and good stabilizers. With old glasses of type 70-210 f4, it is quite noticeably susceptible to micro-lubricants.

        • anonym

          Of the lenses, so far 24-120 / 4 and 70-300 / 4.5-5.6 VR. I do not shoot video on the camera at all, because. for these purposes, there is a video camera. I took the 32GB Sandiski cards of 45 MB / s-2 pcs. In general, I will master it. I really like the camera, I think I will not be disappointed in its acquisition. I understand perfectly that I need to shoot, shoot and shoot again. Then analyze and correct errors. decided for myself. It’s never too late to learn and learn. And the main thing is to see your mistakes. It is always better to ask for advice from people who have experience and practice with this camera.

  • IZELBOR

    Tell me, for the D7000 which memory cards are relevant in terms of speed? how fast does he write from the buffer to the card? So as not to overpay. It is possible to take with recording speeds of 40/60/85/90 mb / s
    Somewhere I heard the opinion that 60 would be optimal ... I would like the frame buffer to be emptied as quickly as possible.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It is precisely known that the recording port of the Nikon D7000 can easily transfer data at a speed of more than 40 Mb / s, therefore I would recommend taking a memory card with the maximum possible recording speed of 40 MB / s.

      • Anatoly

        Feel free to name good references indicating the brand, model. Give people, me, the specifics!

  • Arthur

    Good day, Velmishanovna pannam!
    in mystery photos I’m chatting, although I want to take all of my photos by FED-3, showing it myself by handing the photo. I’ll guess the deacs of this skill, but I’ll be able to gut it.
    є a meal before you is a pan.
    I want to photograph a black-and-white photo, in a raw format (show it yourself), without a fake wallpaper in Photoshop. I plan to vikoristovuvati manually optics from small cameras (mostly virobnitstva ssr, but if I do it inexpensively, then they are old) the budget for a camera duzhe stisliy - $ 100.
    Know Nikon D100. Ale shche menі were pleased with the canon 30D (price tag yak at nikon).
    please budlaska, scho menі lіpche pіdіyde (perhaps more models are available between $ 100 per second-hand).
    Dyaku for a vіdpovіd.

    • Oleg

      If you are going to take pictures with optics of the USSR, then it may be better to look in the direction of Kenon, because focusing on infinity will lose focus on infinity for many lenses, especially for m-42 threads. Read the Soviet optics article on kenon and nikon from Arkady. Ideally, of course, a B.U. 1100d I do not know the prices for it. Scroll through the aucro buy used. technicians are always a lottery

    • Sergei

      I completely agree on Kenon and the m42, but the model ... Well, colleague, the 1100d is a plastic craft, definitely 30d then. If I looked for myself with such conditions, I would take 10d, read about it on the network, look at examples of photos, maybe it will be interesting. The camera is decent and its price is up to $ 100.

      • anonym

        Good afternoon Panov.
        dyaky for the delight.
        Ale shche є кілька powered.
        after reading the article about Arcadia optics. as it appeared on the nikon є close to 16 units with the “N” bayonet, which does not require any adapter and 24 units with a changeable shank (under the letter “A”) for the victorian with the adapter KP-A / N. and as the author writes: "A small conclusion: using lenses with the designation" H "or" A "can always be used without problems on the Nikon system with the preservation of infinity, and for" H "with the ability to control the aperture."
        I shouldn’t miss the choice of 40 items to buy 4 (it’s more than a penny to use more).
        and from the drive of the automatic exposure - you can pick up the photoexponometer (for example, "Sverdlovsk-4") that will hand over the iso, the diaphragm, that showcase?

        • Oleg

          About the photo exposure meter. Set the camera to aperture priority mode: set the diaphragm on the lens and iso on the camera and shoot. Up to aperture 2.8, the camera copes well when clamping aperture over 2.8 may be wrong. I didn’t use optics with N mount

        • Dmitry

          For Nikon, you can completely use the MC Helios 81H and Jupiter 37A. These, in my opinion, are the most interesting and inexpensive glasses from the Soviet ones, and they should be enough for almost all plots. You can also try on Nikon Helios 44-2, sold converted to Nikon, are inexpensive, you can take for the sake of twisted bokeh.

        • Dmitry

          As for the exposure meter, I would not worry. Digital is not a film, here you immediately see overexposure or underexposure (you can judge by the histogram). I took several shots with different parameters and got the correct exposure. Then, with experience by eye, you determine exactly.
          In extreme cases, you can buy an adapter KP-A / N with a Lushnikov chip, then the measurement will work.

        • BB

          an exposure meter for a figure is an extra accessory: over time, you quickly set the approximate parameters 'by eye', take a test shot, see what happened - the photo itself + histogram, adjust if necessary, remove. When changing location, repeat.

          For example, D5100 + Jupiter 37a:

          • anonym

            And if instead of this cute girl there is a restless squirrel (figuratively), will you also take test shots? ... None of your "peephole" can replace exposure metering, even the horse understands that.

            • Peter Sh.

              I’m not a horse, but even I understand that squirrels and beautiful women are not removed in the same mode, with the same settings.

              Moreover, I do all my serious work in 'M' mode, often with 'Auto ISO' disabled.

              • BB

                That's right - squirrels, dancers in motion, and other animals - only with AF optics))

              • Jury

                Cc, squirrels and glass without AF normally work :)

          • Peter Sh.

            Even taking pictures of beautiful ladies, especially in the evening on city streets ...
            Hmm .. In other words, when photographing girls in the evening entourage, if some distant, barely noticeable flashlight suddenly gets into the frame, for example, autoexposure can easily gossip at the wrong ISO.
            When you already know about when what ISO value should be, the metering is really useless.
            Of course, when there is no time for careful reflection, auto metering is simply necessary.

            • BB

              Of course you're right.

              I rarely use auto-ISO in general, in fact, in the five years of this function I used two or three times, for a long time - once - all day - oriental dances, there was good light, but uneven.

              In natural light, I often select and set the desired ISO, then I shoot in A mode, with manual optics almost the same, but more often (and easier) it is already 'matched' with AF optics, and the approximate exposure ratio has already been determined.

              • anonym

                Pearls from VV- “an exposure meter for a digit is an extra accessory.” Here is another- “auto-metering is simply necessary. Of course, you are right.” ... Nobody understood an example about a squirrel. the squirrel will reach the Canadian border.

              • BB

                The anonymous man seems to be reading through the line. You ... move your finger across the screen, then maybe you will understand the meaning of what you have written correctly.

              • anonym

                Hopeless. It's time to take it!

        • Sergei

          Your experiments with Soviet lenses will end very soon. Yes, there are successful models, Helios 81, Jupiter 37, Kaleinar. But having tried normal modern optics, I don’t want to return to them. Well maybe to Helios 81 only. The only advantage of Soviet optics is the price. But now she somehow goes beyond reasonable limits. Kaleinar is in good condition $ 100, who does not need him. It’s better to add and buy something native to the same focal
          And the feeling will be like it had come out and Zaporozhets and sat in Merce.

  • Oleg

    Yes, I probably agree I proceeded from the fact that 1100d fresh and less mileage will be

  • Eugene

    What to choose kenon 550 or nikon d3300? It is very necessary)) who will say what?) Thank you.

    • Pastor

      I am exclusively for d3300. I didn’t have d550, but there were 500d and 600d - essentially similar models. So, I would not even take the 600d in comparison with the d3300. Let me explain briefly why:
      1) d3300 newer than 550d.
      2) d3300 has a much better matrix. While the 550d ISO 1600 is already practically non-working, the d3300 even 3200 is nothing. And Nikon's dd is better. Plus, there is no AA filter - the image is sharper.
      3) d3300 shoots faster (5 frames per second).
      4) d3300 is smaller and lighter.
      There are a number of other nuances, but in general these are the main ones. For me, there is nothing to think about - you need to take Nikon D3300. If there was a choice between the d3300 and the Canon 100d, one could still speculate, and the 550d is clearly inferior to the Nikon on all fronts.
      P.S. There are more megapixels at d3300! It's for a joke, but there is a joke in every joke :)

      • Eugene

        Thank you!)

    • Lynx

      Of these two, I would prefer the Canon D100 or D650.

  • Alexey

    Good afternoon. Tell me, will the Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical fit the fudji S 3 pro camera (the camera is old, and I saw that there are fewer contacts on the camera than on the lens )?

    • BB

      Only suitable, it seems, the stabilizer does not work on some old cameras

    • Sergei

      I have a nikon d100 and a kit lens 18-55vr, ​​everything works, don't worry about compatibility ... good luck and good photos

      • Alexey

        thanks for the answers, we will see

      • Alexey

        Do you have 18-55 GI or GII? Now I looked at a photo of the 18-55 bayonet - on the first version there are 7 contacts, as on the D100 and S3pro, on the second version there are already 8. Still, they take doubts about the full functionality of the 18-200 on my camera.

        • BB

          And on 70-300VR in general 10 contacts O_O
          Although the carcasses of the D5100 and D7100 have 8 contacts.
          Here on the film F80 - 7 contacts (just on its basis S2pro and then S3pro are built). Today I bought batteries for the F80 (the old set sat down), checked the F80 with 70-300VR - everything works - both the AF (I already knew this) and the stabilizer, so don't worry - everything should work.

          • Alexey

            Oh, thanks for that. I was afraid that maybe the stub would not work. On 18-200 there are also 10 contacts. Now it will be possible to buy a glass.

        • Sergei

          I have 18-55 BP of the first version, I also tried Tamron 24-70 BP, the stub works without any complaints and hiccups ... good photos for everything

  • Eugene

    Who is familiar with the Mecablitz 70 mz - 4? There is almost nowhere information about it, I will be glad to talk with the owner.

  • Bulgakiff48

    Hello!) Maybe someone knows what to choose for Sony A58 or Nikon D3300.? Sony likes fast focus, tell me how does the d3300 cope? And just do it better to get d3300 or a58?))

  • Bulgakiff48

    Hello!) Maybe someone knows what to choose for Sony A58 video or Nikon D3300.? Sony likes fast focus, tell me how does the d3300 cope? And just do it better to get d3300 or a58?))

    • Rodion

      Videos on manual focus seem to be filming, no? Moreover, they remove it with something aperture like 50 / 1.4 or 35 / 1.4.

    • Pastor

      I have d3300, I tried a58. On Sonya, autofocus is faster, but on the d3300 as a whole it copes relatively well in more or less normal lighting. I usually shoot video in manual mode, but with the D3300 autofocus as a whole, it’s better than previous Nikon models. Of course, Sony will be faster.

  • Radion

    Good evening, I bought Jupiter 37A. some plate with a hole of 10 mm is glued on the adapter ring.
    who can tell what it is and why, can I delete it?

    • BB

      What is this and why can only indicate the former owner. In the topic about Yu-37 there is a photo of the adapter, and a lens with a normal shank

    • lech

      It looks like homemade. if glued, try to gently peel off.

    • Dmitry

      The plate is left, in the original adapter it is not in sight.

      • Radion

        thank you

  • Radion

    thanks. The "plug" was recessed, it looks like a factory production.
    already removed, but I wonder why it was provided

    • BB

      was just tightly inserted?

      • Radion

        Yes. and on the shank there is a small chamfer where this ring is very clearly set

      • Radion

        Can this be to reduce flare so that there are less hares?

        • BB

          It is unlikely that there will be fewer rabbits, but the contrast may fall - due to the re-reflection of light from this piece of iron to the rear lens, as well as from the matrix to the piece of iron and back - I think so.
          It is difficult to imagine why it is needed there, maybe for conveyor transportation, for example?

        • Radion

          for clarity

  • Timur

    Good afternoon.
    Help with the choice.
    I shoot mainly sports and reporting. Camera D300s + 80-200 F2.8 (III version).
    There was an opportunity to purchase FF.
    Choose between Nikon D3 and Nokon D3s.
    The difference in price is small. Does it make sense to overpay for the D3s version? Or dispense with D3?

    • lech

      matrices for D3 and D3s are the same. D3 has a smaller buffer, and there is no crop factor function. in general, the difference is small. take which with lower mileage, or even leave the D300s. I think the real upgrade looks like this;

      Stage 1: iPhones, soap dishes
      2nd level: crop, fullframe (2 formats, with one picture quality)
      Stage 3: Pentax 645D and other Hassels (give a noticeable improvement in quality)

      as soon as this truth arrives, time immediately appears to really hone photographic skills.

    • Lynx

      Has the meaning.

  • Alexander

    Good evening! Tell me, can anyone come across an Auto Chinon multi-coated 1: 2.8 135mm lens ??? What is he and is it worth paying attention to him. Thanks in advance!

  • Igor

    Good afternoon!
    Tell me, is it worth taking a Kingston MicroSDHC / MicroSDXC 32GB Class 10 UHS-I + SD memory card adapter
    for Nikon D 3300 (price 229 UAH per share)

    • BB

      From my experience: SD cards are always faster than microSD cards, even class 6 SD cards are faster than microSD 10 cards. This is objective data - I compared the recording time from the device's buffer to the card.

      If you do not plan to shoot video, and do not indulge in continuous shooting, take any card of suitable capacity. Need a fast card - take SD, at least 10th grade.

    • Lynx

      not worth it.

  • anonym

    Hello, I want to try installing something from Soviet optics on the Canon 6D through an adapter, will there be a problem of touching the mirror?

    • Maugli

      MC HELIOS-44M-7 58mm 1: 2 (specifically my specimen) installed through the M42-EOS aluminum adapter on my 6D reached the mirror in the maximum raised state (exposure time) and then the mirror itself did not lower. This happened in the case of focusing on infinity, if you focus from 15-20m to MDF, then there are no problems. In fact, not a problem. A lens such as the Nikkor-Q Auto 135 2.8 Non-Ai, mounted through the Nikon F-EOS brass adapter, does not catch at all, it costs slightly more than the Jupiter 37A.

    • Maugli

      Exposure metering on the open fulfills accurately; when closing the diaphragm, a correction to minus is needed.

  • Oleg

    On the occasion, we got a Sony NEX-3 with a 16mm f / 2.8 lens. Please advise a budget 35mm fix, because the prices for “native” lenses for this carcass are simply off scale.

    • Oleg

      The question is relevant

      • Ivan

        Most normal - Sigma 30mm 2.8

  • Radion

    Who is familiar with the constructive Yu37a, Tell me, please, the following.
    in all pictures in the net on the lens, the “point aperture value indicator” is on the same line with the GRIP scale. On my sample, an offset of 1/4 revolution.
    This does not bother me much, but it can be easily fixed by disassembling and assembling in the correct position. If you know how to solve, tell me, please

    • Lynx

      most likely you took it apart and “re-entered” another loop of the helicoid to make infinity for nikon.
      Therefore bias.

      • Radion

        This affects the operation of the lens itself and the quality of the photo.?
        I have a canon.

        • Lynx

          No, it shouldn't, although different things are possible. If it doesn’t interfere, don’t touch it, but it’s quite easy to return it to its normal position.

          • Radion

            I disassembled it as I bought it - I took off the focusing cover, cleaned the rear lens, it had oil perspiration, I did not disassemble it further. what needs to be done to assemble in the correct position

            • Lynx

              it is best of course to google an article on disassembly, with pictures, but in short:
              1. Remove the shank.
              2. the rear lens will have 4 screws on 2 plates - unscrew everything and remove both plates, do not forget which side.
              3. Unscrew the lens by 2 halves - along the helix thread. It is multi-way, i.e. you can, when twisting, stand up for several (whether 3 or 4) turns with mixing by a third or a quarter of a circle of rotation.
              4. with a couple of attempts to determine which round you need to tighten, so that everything fits together.
              5. reassemble in the reverse order.

              • Radion

                OK. thanks. I will be

  • Tatyana

    Hello! I'm a creepy kettle. Therefore, without terms, on the fingers. I have a NIKON D5100 with an AF-S NIKKOR 18-55 lens. Pleased for 2 years. “Suddenly” began to glitch - periodically there is no clarity of the image in the photo and in the video (like a person: he had good eyesight, and then he got old and everything was in a fog). You have to manually twist (where 18-55), although everything is set to the automatic machine ... But even the best options do not have the same clarity as it was. It was: slightly touched the jamb with the lens; searched for zoom, pressed all buttons with + and - signs, etc. What could have happened, please help with advice.

    • Lynx

      1. Take a different lens from friends, at a rental or just in some store and click - if everything is in order, then most likely your lens is broken, the whales break easily enough when you go. True, they are often not repaired, but take it to the workshop to find out - you can

      • Tatyana

        Thanks a lot! Let's try it.

    • brighty

      On the side of the lens, there is a small switch lever, or rather two, the lower one is responsible for the stabilizer, the upper one is for automatic focusing. Make sure the top switch is in the “A” position.

      • Tatyana

        Thank you so much! The lever in the machine (they even clicked it), looked at the program settings - there was also an automatic machine everywhere. Most likely they “banged” :-(

  • Alexander P.

    Please tell me which adapter M42 is suitable for Canon 7D Mark2? With or without a chip? I became interested in stores, they answer that it is only necessary without a chip. Helios 44M-7 lens. Thank you.

  • Oleg

    And why the page does not refresh. I saw in the discussion tape a review of 75-150 from Alexei, slipped in read, I wanted to read later, I can not find anywhere else

  • Ruslan

    Good evening, I recently bought 50 mm 1,8 g Nikon. Help me figure out the M mode. The drawer often automatically changes itself! and the diaphragm in place is what is connected with? Fotik D 90

    • Lynx

      in M mode on the lens or on the carcass? these are slightly different M. modes
      If M is on the lens, then this only means manual focus.

      • anonym

        On the carcass !!!

    • Eugene

      You have auto exposure bracketing enabled.

      • Lynx

        Here, by the way, is also an option. )))

  • Maugli

    Tell me please. I want to shoot a video (concert) from two cameras, one for the general plan on a tripod, the second for close-ups from a monopod or tripod. The lens on the second camera (ff) Canon 70-200 / 4 non IS. Question: what should be the shutter speed on the second camera? I read that there is a rule t = 1/2 * fps, i.e. 1 / 50-1 / 60, for telephoto lenses, is it preserved?

  • Victor

    Hello! In the process of mastering the camera, I had an incomprehensible situation. This applies to autofocus, or rather the focus point. The fact is that when the camera is set to "Auto" mode (camera D3200) when choosing focusing "Single AF", the camera takes the center point as a basis. I understand that it should be so, and it is. But when switching to the “M” mode with the same “single-point AF”, the camera for some reason takes as a basis not the central one, but for some reason the extreme right of the 11 points. And I can't figure out how to make sure that in the “M” mode I get focus by the central point ...

    • Lynx

      umm. Specify:
      If you go into M mode, do you always reset the point to the far right? And after you move it to the center with the joystick, switch to the “auto” mode and back to M, then the point is reset to the rightmost point again and you need to return it to the center again?

      • Victor

        Oh, I beg your pardon. I stumbled a little ... I didn't know that you can set the focus point with the joystick! I thought that if the "one-point" mode, then this is exactly the central point))) I seem to teach, I'm trying to figure it out, but I missed this moment. Thanks for the help!

        • Lynx

          norms. the transition to a “new way of thinking” usually takes some time. If you study the instructions hard and turn the camera in your hand every day, at least a little, it will take about a couple of weeks to a month.

          • Victor

            Here I look through Didenko https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSXZpVjZw9k&index=70&list=PLosSGith6CdMO7BOqR4Av5ecxHukZDAeG It seems to be giving good lessons (for general development). Or what do you suggest for increasing the level of knowledge?

            • brighty

              In appearance, the guys are pretty and sensible, but if you dig deeper, they turn out to be narcissistic rednecks, and if you also start to listen more carefully, then in general most of the video is blah blah blah, water is hot.
              Although, useful information can be found everywhere.

            • Lynx

              I agree with the bright.
              the HELPFUL thing he has - you can get it from the instructions for the camera, or from this site.
              And you can invent the dregs that he drives away.

    • brighty

      Study it

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mg2Ctr3nYl8

      Can help.

      • brighty

        Sorry, this is for Maugli

      • Maugli

        Thank you.

    • BB

      Most likely in 'auto' mode the center point is set by default. And in the 'M' mode - the point that you set with the 'joystick'. Just select the point you want.

      • Victor

        Right! I just didn’t know that you can use the joystick to choose the focus point. I thought that by default it was only central, and without options. Thanks for the help!

  • Eugene

    Why fine-tune white balance is needed and how is it used in practice. Whether NEF is affected by. Do I need to drip in this setting to make the colors “tastier”? I photograph the gray card in NEF, click the BB dropper, on the slider the shade goes to green sometimes at -10 and sometimes at -40, 50 is this normal or is it better to adjust the BB ??? Thanks.

    • Lynx

      for adjustment "to taste" if, for example, the camera is "blue, yellow" or a person wants some kind of bias.
      on equal terms - does not affect (although it is prescribed in the data for it).
      Do not touch.

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