Question answer

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Please note that for some questions I do not know the answers, or the answer requires 10 pages of text. When asking questions, try to formulate them correctly and in a detailed manner, honestly, neither I nor other readers of Radozhiva have telepathy and can not understand and even more so answer short, meaningless questions.

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Comments: 8 568, on the topic: Question-Answer

  • Svetlana

    Good afternoon. The daughter wants to become a professional photographer. I entered the appropriate technical school. Which camera will be optimal for the training period? Previously, she only filmed on her phone, so she can’t choose from her own experience. I'm looking at the Nikon D7500 + 18-140 VR lens and the Nikon Z50+ Z DX 18-140 f/3,5-6,3 VR. Which one will be better for studying? Or look the other way?
    Thank you if you can help with advice.

    • Dmitry Kostin

      The second option with z50 is more promising.
      Although I would look at the Nikon D3300-3400.

      • Svetlana

        Tell me, are these cameras better for studying? D3300-3400. Have more manual settings? Better quality? Or is it more reasonably priced?

        • Dmitry Kostin

          D3300-D3400 are quite suitable for a beginner. They are inexpensive and simple, and the matrix is ​​similar to the D7100-7200.
          If your daughter suddenly changes her mind about studying photography, then she won’t be so sorry for the money spent.

    • Human

      I would look at Canon RP + aperture 35 + aperture 85, these Nikons are in the firebox (insulting the feelings of believers, sorry =( )

      • Dmitry Kostin

        This is not a budget option, especially if the lenses are for RF mount.

        • Human

          Well, yes, but if you take a Nikon z50 with autofocus 35 and 85, then the price will be comparable, or even more, than if you take RP SLR lenses through an adapter with the possibility of further upgrading to RF ones. But there is an advantage in the fact that it does not discourage a beginner from taking pictures, and in order to get interesting photos with a long-focal zoom, you need to get good at it, and with fast lenses, willy-nilly, you get blur and bokehs.

          So, as has been said more than once here on the site, you can take photos on any camera of any system, but as for the video, you need to watch. It’s just that in terms of studying in college on this topic, I proposed the above-described option with a camera that is lightweight in all respects, which will not be too much of a burden and drag on women’s hands.

    • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

      Canon 30D, and then 5D and happiness is guaranteed.

      • Victor

        To the seller?)

  • igor

    Hello photography guru! I have a question - I have a NIKON D80 camera and they gave me a Doerr DAF34 minolta-sony flash - are there shoe adapters for it to work on Nikon or is it easier to sell it - thanks in advance

    • Andy From Far Away

      There are adapters, but they cost as much as your flash. It’s easier to sell and buy for the same money something in the same class that is compatible with your camera. Extra clutter is a spoke in your own wheel and only makes sense when it is financially beneficial (for example, adapters for certain optics.

      • igor

        Thank you, I’ll look where everything is - on Ali Express

  • steve

    my nikon af-s 28-70mm lens works great, however it makes like a electrical high pitch sound when autofocusing is this normal or is the motor ready to go.

    • Dmitry Kostin

      I advise you to take the lens to Nikon service for diagnostics.
      A high-pitched squeak is produced by the AF motor. This may be because your lens has not been working for some time(during covid time). This sound may be due to the fact that you may have taken photos in damp, humid weather (such as rainy weather). The service must clean the lens, change the lubricant, and, if necessary, replace the motor.

      • Dmitry Kostin

        upd
        The service must clean the Motor, change the lubricant, and, if necessary, replace the motor.

  • Sergei

    Good day, I have a Nikon d5100 camera and two lenses 18-55 kit and Helios 44-2. I bought the camera used, there is a problem when I take pictures in manual mode, the photo turns out completely black. When I put it in sports mode, the photo turns out fine. Same thing for Helios. When I take a photo of a light bulb, the light bulb is visible, but everything else is dark. When I turn on the flash, the photos turn out fine. And to take a photo you need to hold the shutter button for a long time. Thank you in advance

    • Human

      To take pictures in manual mode, you need to at least intuitively set the aperture, light sensitivity and shutter speed correctly, otherwise everything will happen exactly as you described

  • B. R. P.

    I would like to thank Arkady for his extremely tolerant moderation of comments. You created the topic “Results of 2022”, and now you are cleaning it and for some reason it is pro-Ukrainian comments. THOSE. Any trash with Russian citizenship can write whatever you want, but you consider an adequate response from your opponent to be inappropriate. Apparently, in Kyiv they have completely forgotten about the war, about the fact that our people are dying every day. Both yours and ours? - such a policy did no good to anyone. You will see this for yourself.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      that’s where I didn’t clean anything (except for outright swearing in the first days of publishing a note), a lot of it just ends up in general spam, which I don’t look at (about 100 spam comments a day). Don't look for what isn't there.
      Comments in a note 2022 Results I closed today (after a year).

      I can always speak up here, here, hereand here. There is a forced approval of all (ALL) comments.

      Personally, it seems quite stupid to me to think that here (in Ukraine, Kiev) someone has forgotten something, or does not understand something, or does not see something every day regarding the criminal war of the Russian Federation against Ukraine. By the way, for those who haven't seen it, here it is interview with my mother (Tatyana Shapoval) about the occupation in the Bucha region.

      • B. R. P.

        I can't completely agree with you. If you personally remember and so on, then very many, especially in Kyiv and other remote places, do not. Even in Kharkov, some people continue to get carried away with manicures, eyelashes, etc. There are shellings in the suburbs of Kharkov EVERY DAY.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          The main thing is that most men do not get carried away with “eyelashes” :)

          • B. R. P.

            Yes)

  • for

    Hello, I’m an amateur, Nikon D-90 camera, Nikkor 18-105 lens, my son gave me a Sigma 17-50 1:2,8 EX OS with a Nikon stub, will Sigma completely replace the kit 18-105, are both of them worth it? keep in your arsenal?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Fully - no. In the big one - yes. Come and try it.

    • Viktre

      If you are holding two lenses, it makes sense to change the 18-105 to 55-200vr or 55-300

      • B. R. P.

        +1

    • Andy From Far Away

      As an option, change the 18-105 to some kind of prime... for example, full-frame 2.8 macro 100mm. Quite a multitasking thing. Macro, portraits, nature.

      • B. R. P.

        You'll have to pay a lot.

        • Andy From Far Away

          The Tokina 100mm f/2.8D AT-X Pro is an excellent glass for the price. Our used one costs from 150€. 18-105 ~130€. The difference is small.

          • B. R. P.

            18-105 130€??? 30 is a lot for him.

  • Jury

    Hello. I choose a SLR camera for product photography.
    The following options are available:
    1)Canon 1000d
    2)Canon 1100d
    3)Canon 1200d
    4)Canon 450d
    5)Canon 600d
    6)Sony alpha a58
    7)Sony a3500
    8)Nikon d3000
    9)Nikon d3100
    10)Nikon d3200
    11)Nikon d3300
    12)Nikon d5100
    13)Pentax kr
    14)Sony a230
    15)Sony n50
    16)Sony a35
    17)Sony dsc-hx300
    18) Sony atpha slt-a37 kit
    19)Panasonic iumix dmc-fz28
    20)Fujifilm hs25sxr
    21)Fujifilm finepix s3400
    22)Sony dsir-a100(sal 55-200-2,sal 75-300)
    23)Sony a350 kit 18-70
    24)Pentax kr body
    25)Fujifilm finepix sl300
    26)Nikon d80
    27)Olympus e-420 kit
    28)Nikon d90
    New to photography.
    I'm looking at the Canon 1200d.
    Or should we consider something else from the list?

    • Dmitry Kostin

      For product photography, it is more important to choose a lens and the right light for the studio/room than the camera itself.
      What are you planning to shoot (by size)?

      • Jury

        Car repairs. Perhaps this is not subject photography. I don’t know how to do it correctly.

        • B. R. P.

          Yes, absolutely anyone. For such a “subject”.

      • Jury

        What lens do you recommend? The most budget-friendly? As I understand it, the whale one will not work?

        • B. R. P.

          A whale will also do. Just don’t forget about additional lighting.

        • Human

          It’s better to take photos with your phone, there’s no point in taking a budget camera with a kit, if you don’t know how to edit, the photos will be worse than on your phone

          • Jury

            That is, the photo on the phone will be better than, for example, on the 1200d?

            • Victor

              At least, with your goals and conditions for additional equipment, no worse.

              Now almost any phone, even a relatively budget one, will photograph closely spaced objects without fine structure.

            • Dmitry Kostin

              Car repairs are filmed and posted on YouTube.
              Including on the phone - because you have to say something to the camera.
              Photos in this sense will be less clear.
              Especially if you want to attract attention to yourself as a repairman.
              Youtube does not take money for posting videos.
              But find a live photo hosting site where you can upload photos of repairs for free and without restrictions... there are only a few of them left. From the simplest and most convenient thing - social networks.

  • Sergiy

    Good afternoon. Can you please tell me if you would sleep a Meike Nikon 950 II before a Nikon D3100 camera?

  • Numerman

    Dear comrades, in gradually mastering Soviet photographic equipment, I inevitably reached fifty dollars* and a question arose. What to choose and why (what are the strengths) of the following lenses? (I need M42/39 because I shoot with Zenit 19)
    Helios 44m-7
    Helios 77m-4
    Zenithar 1.7 / 50

    Can Zenithar “replace” 77m-4 in operation? Why maybe MLM doesn’t melt?

    Maybe just not chase it and take the early one with 13 petals?

    Let's say that you have money for 1 lens, what would you take?

  • Rodion

    I would take SMC Takumar f/1.8 :)

    • Numerman

      Is it stronger in backlight than the lenses described above?

      • Rodion

        Definitely better than Zenithar 50/1.7, which is not MS. At the same time, the image quality is definitely better than 77m-4. And the angle is wider than 44. The enlightenment of SMC Takumars is very good.

  • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

    Hello. Thank you for maintaining such an interesting and useful resource.
    I am interested in photographing airplanes. And quite often I receive comments that the photographs are “soft” (soft or blurry). AF-C focus mode with single point focus. Aperture is usually f8-f9, shutter speed 1/400 or faster (depending on lighting). Nikkor AF-S 70-300 VR lens. What's wrong? Thank you.

    • Andy From Far Away

      First, you should make sure that the lens itself is working... does the lens give the desired result in static conditions (tripod, static subject, different focal lengths)?
      Also, 1/400 sec is too long handheld for moving objects at a 300mm focal length.

      • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

        In statics everything is fine, we are talking about dynamics, an airplane is a big thing and moves quickly, perhaps the depth of field zone is small, maybe the aperture can be pressed down more, maybe the autofocus method can be changed. I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

        • Andy From Far Away

          At f8/f9 with depth of field, at a distance at which the entire plane fits into the frame, everything is fine.
          For example for FF.. When focusing on an object at a distance of 300 meters, focal length 300mm and f7.1, the depth of field is 870 meters (125 meters before the focusing point and 745 meters behind it)
          And at a distance of 500 meters, you already have 270 meters to the focusing point in the grip zone, and the remaining numbers generally go to infinity.
          You can safely open the hood to the limit where your lens produces good sharpness to the corners of the frame. And in return you will get faster shutter speeds, which is more important when shooting moving objects handheld (shutter priority mode.

          Light filters can play a role. Skylight, for example, is such a filter. Makes shots “warmer” in color, but reduces contrast.

          Perhaps the softness in your photos is due to working in backlight.
          I didn’t touch the NIkon 70-300, but the Tamron I mentioned did not produce contrasting and sharp images at high focal lengths, and in backlight it was even worse.
          Personally, after looking at Arkady’s test images with your lens, I am inclined to go for the latter. By the way, there is also a photograph of an airplane in the sky with the same problems in contrast and sharpness. Only some kind of 300+ mm fix will help here.

          • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

            Thank you for your reply. Very informative.

    • Andy From Far Away

      I had a Tamron SP AF 70-300 mm F4.0-5.6 Di USD VC, above 200 mm there was only soap.

    • Yuriy

      You need to change 2 speeches:
      1. change the airport to the military airfield in Engels.
      2. a camera like this

  • Javier

    Hola queria comprar una refkex nikon para cambiarla por mi D90, me podris aconsejar entre las siguientes cual me recomiendas:
    D5600
    D7000
    D7100
    D7200

    Thank you very much

    • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

      It depends of your posibilities. My personal choice is D7200.

  • Volodimir

    Good afternoon, I want to clean the RMC Tokina 28mm lens due to fungus, but I can’t remove the lens unit, it won’t work, maybe it’ll get stuck on glue, maybe in someone’s opinion (and heat it up, or you can go to some retailer, otherwise you won’t do any harm) ob'єtivu). Also, the cover on the front part of the lens does not screw up (there are technical openings to seal and rotate during the day), it means that there are special silicone tubes of different diameters, otherwise press them I don’t think so, so I ask for the sake of how you can earn it.
    In the photo, there are indications of the lens unit itself and the lining of the front part so that it becomes clear what I mean.

    • Andy From Far Away

      I have the same one for Minolta, in perfect condition and, accordingly, I have never taken it apart.
      You may have already found it yourself, but just in case, one German has photo instructions for this (and other) lenses. Only photos without description. But there you can see and understand a lot step by step.
      I think it’s impossible to post links here, so I’ll try this..
      Go to the page “analogicus” dot “de”. There, in the “Objektive” section, select your lens.

  • Irina

    Arkady, please recommend a camera that is small but stylish, like a watering can, but not a watering can :-)))) something light, small, stylish, for a woman and not expensive. So that you can always take it with you, but so that it doesn’t look like something professional. And so that the photo is up to date. Thanks in advance.
    Now I have a Canon, but it is too big with its lenses, everyone pays attention. But I want something compact, even with my own kit lens, but not big. Is there anything like that in nature? I know from a review of someone who shot on Nikon St 10 or something like that, but it’s about 1000 USD. costs. I want something cheaper, but with good filling. And compact. Thanks in advance.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      With inch sensor Sony RX100 VII, RX100 VA, Sony ZV-1, Sony ZV-1 II, Canon G7 X Mark III

      With APS-C sensor FUJIFILM X100V (I would take this one), Ricoh GR III

    • Andy From Far Away

      The Sony 6000 series or FUJIFILM X-T30 come to mind. Both options, in combination with the “pancake”, are compact so as not to scare off passers-by and light enough not to be left lying around at home. Fuji, IMHO, is a little more pleasant to the touch. If you take a used one, then both options will be cheaper than 1000 conventional ones.

  • Alex

    I'm asking for community advice. I take photographs for myself at an amateur level, often of friendly/family gatherings and feasts indoors. Nikon D5500 camera, SB-800 flash, kit lenses 18-55/3,5-5,6 and YN35/2. Unfortunately, photos often come out noisy, which is especially noticeable on faces that look like old brownish dots. I try not to use ISO above 1000, I shoot in RAW, I don’t like the result. On the street everything is usually noticeably better. What could be the matter, is the flash really not enough at distances of 3-5 meters or am I limiting the ISO in vain? Typical shooting parameters: 1/125-1/60, f/3.5-8, ISO 400-800, flash - at the ceiling ~3 meters with a reflector (larger than standard) in TTL auto mode with background filling, exposure metering - center-weighted or matrix, the photo is usually in aperture priority mode. Attached is an example of such an unsuccessful photo, albeit with reservations: f/10 and decently cropped for clarity. Am I asking too much from the fairly simple technology I use?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Disable ADL, use noise reduction. In the shadows, almost all crops are noisy at medium ISO. And think about the feasibility of F/10 in such conditions. It’s better to have a wider aperture and turn up the sharpness programmatically.

      • Alex

        Thank you, Arkady, for the recommendations, I’ll experiment. f/10 is the exception in this particular case. In general, as I understand, a) my technique is simple (I expect too much in difficult conditions), b) there is often not enough light in the room, rather than too much, even with a flash.

  • Andrei

    Hello Arkady. Nikon D600 camera. There are two lenses: Tamron 28-75 2.8 NII and Nikon 70-300 ED. In most cases I use 28-75 and it suits me. Amateur photography while traveling: architecture, sometimes landscape. But sometimes a wide angle is not enough in narrow European streets. I'm trying to choose either Nikon 16-35 1:4, or Nikon 18-35 which is G. Or is a fixed one better? For example 20 2,8D. Thank you.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      16-35 is wonderful

      • Andrei

        Thank you.

  • Alex

    Good afternoon, Arkady. I read your articles about focusing systems and their use, but I still didn’t understand a simple thing. Please clarify. In what cases is it more convenient to use MANUAL selection of the focus point compared to the “point, press the half-shutter (or the dedicated AE/AF-Lock button), fix the focus on a single central point, reframe, press the shutter”? I find it time-consuming and inconvenient to select the focus point using the joystick arrows compared to this technique. It is only possible in LiveView mode with a touch screen, it is easy and simple to point at it, specifying the focus point and immediately take a picture, but touch screens are not available on every camera, i.e. you will have to use the joystick again.
    In automatic focus point selection mode, everything seems clear. Typically, this mode is used when there is no time to manually select a point or reframe, and you have to trust the camera’s automation. Please give an example when manual selection of the focus point is more convenient or urgently necessary for other reasons.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      you just go from the phrase “it seems to me” to the phrase “I tried it, took a couple of thousand frames”
      The example is simple - when reframing and using light lenses, precise focusing is lost, the ability to track is lost, so it will always be worse

      • Alex

        Thank you. I tried manual selection several times, as they say, I didn’t understand it, I didn’t appreciate it. I didn’t think about the possibility of tracking; indeed, it can be both convenient and important.
        And please also explain about automatic focusing using multiple points. In this mode, upon successful focusing in the JVI, one or more points from the total possible number, for example, 39, are highlighted. Which points are highlighted? We cannot focus on all of them at the same time, since the lens/lens unit will be fixed in one position. Or the camera shows that at all these points, with the selected position of the lens/lens unit, the image will be in focus, i.e. in fact, they are all located at the same distance from the camera and will they be sharp?

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Yes, at all these points with the selected position of the lens/lens unit the image will be in focus

  • Sergiy

    Good evening.
    Which camera with video stabilization is the least expensive?
    Vdyachny for your confirmation.

  • Igor

    Hello!
    I am engaged in sewing backpacks and bags, the materials are textiles (canvas), leather, synthetics. Today, most of the products are in black (main material, belts, accessories), I try to change the situation and introduce more vibrant colors of fabrics.
    What would you recommend made of iron and glass for product photography in a workshop, in the process of work (40%) and wildlife (40%)? The goal is to fill the site and blog on VK.
    Basic requirements: reliable color rendition (color reproduction without distortion), “live” three-dimensional image, good detail.
    I’m not chasing megapixels, so for VK, Telegi and YouTube, 12 MP is enough.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It will sound trivial - perhaps if you have a good phone, it will be enough. And so - without a budget, no one will tell you anything (and without understanding whether it’s used or not)

    • twm

      Igor, light is the main condition. Good reflected or diffused light. Arrange the sources so that the thing gains volume. Indoors - manual white balance: on a white sheet, for example.
      Any camera will work for the task, even a crop DSLR from some 2005. The lens is more important.

  • Cold

    Hello, I’m choosing my first camera, on the second hand, in my budget I would like a camera up to $160, maximum $210, it would be better, of course, to have one with whale glass, so that at least I could check it, but that’s not the point.
    In general, at first I looked towards Nikon, specifically the D5200, namely because of the characteristics of the matrix, but looking at the example photos, I somehow didn’t really like them, they weren’t sharp, and they spoke controversially about it, I figured it out a little more and I think about it -with a lot of MP it’s easy to get lubrication.
    Well, I started looking towards Canon, namely the 6X0D, I like their photo examples, they are sharp. But I naturally began to look at lenses in the direction of cheap Soviet and Chinese fast ones and realized that they hardly make them for Canon EF and Nikon F mounts (what I found), but they make a lot of them for Sony E.
    Looking at Sony, I took a closer look at the a5000 and NEX-5T, but I don’t like their photographic examples at all, and there aren’t that many of them, there’s no sharpness, it’s soapy, as if there are color distortions, but I like the compactness.
    And I don’t know what to look at, Fuji, Kodak, Olympus somehow don’t understand the models, if you can tell me good ones in this budget, I’ll be grateful.
    I plan to photograph various things, both portraits and landscapes, and I’d even like to do some photography, but the lenses there are of course already expensive) and in general I’d like to have a standard set of fast prime lenses 35-55-85 mm (in EFS).
    I look forward to your suggestions, thanks in advance.

    • Cold

      *EGF, typo

    • Cold

      And not Kodak, but Pentax)

    • Cold

      I'll probably take photos mostly in RAW.

    • Cold

      At the moment I'm leaning towards the 650D, what good inexpensive prime lenses could you recommend?

      • Arkady Shapoval

        without a budget - it’s difficult to suggest anything

      • Andy From Far Away

        In principle, if we are talking about modern fixes, then they are all good. The main thing is that it suits your task/angle. Of the original ones from Canon with autofocus, there are inexpensive 35mm, 50mm and of course a 40mm pancake (cheap, but gorgeous).
        In general, I would advise you to just take it and try it. If you buy a used one, then in principle you have nothing to lose (if you take care of it), you can always sell it for the same money, or almost.

        • Cold

          In general, there is an option for $230 for the D650 kit, 11k mileage, with a Canon EF-S 24mm 1: 2.8 STM - as I understand it, the lens is good and with such a DF there are no analogues for this mount (or are there?), the EGF is 38, seems to be running. Or take a carcass for $150 and a mileage of ~15k and you can go with it the Yongnuo EF 50mm 1:1.8 for $55, the EGF will then be 80 naturally also a good choice, although you can’t shoot a landscape with it, the Yongnuo EF 35mm 1:2 is already a bit expensive. Again, I don’t know. And by 40mm pancake, did you mean Canon EF 40mm 1:2.8 STM?

          • Cold

            Although 24 mm is not quite suitable for a portrait, as I understand it, 30-35 mm would probably be the most balanced for a single lens. What are some good inexpensive options besides Yongnuo?

            • Cold

              As I understand it, I have a choice of Canon 24mm, Yongnuo 35mm, Canon 40mm, Canon 50mm Yongnuo 50mm, which is better? These Canons are all STM, they should focus faster, and in terms of other characteristics the DxOMark 50 mm works better, it’s probably worth taking it, there seem to be options for about $90. I also found out about macro rings, they put them on this 50 mm STM, does it make sense? Thank you

              • Andy From Far Away

                For someone who is buying their first camera, you have plunged quite deep into the matter. On the one hand, this is good, on the other hand, you risk becoming one of those who have long discussions with others about numbers on paper, about the colors of this or that camera, and about something else that has only a distant relation to the process itself. I advise all beginners to start taking photographs.
                The Canon 650D you've been looking at is a great camera. The EF-S 24mm 2.8 is an excellent lens that, with the right approach, can easily cover many tasks, but of course not all and not to the full extent. But that's not the point. Of course, it’s good to have an ultra-wide lens for landscapes, but you can also get excellent results by stitching together a panorama from several frames; a simple used tripod is enough for this. As for portraits, a pancake for starters is even better than some 85mm 1.2 or 135mm 1.8, purely because in the presence of super-bright optics, beginners (and not only) tend to smear the background into trash. But the pancake will force you to move with the camera, to more carefully select the background, shooting point, angle and direction of shooting. And this is the essence of the process!
                Don't try to buy everything at once. Rings, filters, flashes, etc. not needed at the initial stage.
                And as I said in the previous comment - when buying a used lens, if you treat it with care, you can always sell it for +/- the same money and take something else.
                I wish you creative success!

              • Cold

                Yes, I understand that maybe I’m getting too immersed in the technical stuff, but I’m like that in everything) Thank you, and you too!

              • Cold

                I’m thinking about something, and as if right now I don’t have enough of a universal prime lens, what good recommendations can you give for zoom lenses? I just came across Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD, it seems to be quite good. Of course, now I’ll compare 24-70 zooms myself, the main thing for me would be to fit in at least $110)

              • Cold

                I realized that considering the equivalent is needed like a whale 18-55, only of normal quality) And such a Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM costs a lot, we need to look for something similar) in short, yes, it turns out to be a long monologue, I apologize for cluttering ether)

              • Cold

                Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4 MACRO HSM OS seems to be good too, I’m thinking of lowering the budget for the carcass, I don’t know whether to look at the 600D or even 550D)

              • Andy From Far Away

                Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F/2.8 VC as an option. I would not recommend the previous version. All other standard high-aperture zooms will be more expensive, but I could be wrong, since I am new to the market in this segment.
                From personal experience I will say that learning to take photographs with a primer is much more effective and the results are more creative and interesting, since you need to move more. With a 3x zoom, people are more inclined to take photos from the point where they are directly located.

              • Cold

                In general, I thought a lot, and decided this: I ordered a Canon 100D Kit 18-55mm IS STM, 11k mileage, a complete set with a box for $175, and I’ll immediately buy a Canon 50mm 1.8 STM for it, and later, when I save up, a Canon 24mm 2.8 STM pancake, well, We'll see later)

              • Viktre

                Pancake for compactness? In other cases, its use hardly makes sense in the presence of 18-55 is stm.

              • Cold

                Well, any prime is better on its own FR compared to a zoom, but you still have to live to see that. But I started thinking about something more relevant: flash. You need a portable flash with a synchronizer, so that even a small one can be carried around normally, and of course the cheaper the better, <30$ are there any options at all? Please advise. Well, in this case, carrying a diffuser umbrella is also not an option, I’ve seen a “cap” diffused for pennies, how is it even?

              • Cold

                Godox TT520II seems to be a good option

  • Okay

    Good afternoon. If you want to talk about the abuse of some of your photos for commercial purposes, you are obviously ready to pay.

    • Andy From Far Away

      It seems to me that it is better to ask such questions to the author of the blog personally. Contacts for this are available here on the website.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        yes it's most likely a bot

  • Volodimir

    Hello, having touched Jupiter 11 (No. 7202493 KOMZ), I can’t understand what kind of modification this is, instead of a helicoid, which is similar to a film projection version of focusing, having been presented with a wealth of information And, if you don’t know the species, maybe someone has been caught like this, would like to Find out what kind of modification it is, as the new set looks like and where they were vicorized

    • Rodion

      From recording cameras, technical cameras and ordinary ones, such aoras are found. Sometimes complete with some po3-3m. Your option is incomplete - there is no helicoid mating part.

  • Andrei

    Hello.
    Tell me the model of a good and preferably inexpensive tripod with a powerful head for shooting with heavy lenses (MTO-11, etc.). Which head is preferable: ball head or 3D with 3 freedoms?
    I shot with a Rekeym with a ball, but no matter how tightly I turn it, it still nods, and besides this, it is extremely unstable when focusing the MTO-11 (the frame also floats away).
    Is it possible to pick up something used on Avito or is it better to buy a new one?
    Thank you.

    • twm

      Andrey, look at Slik Pro 713af: already discontinued God knows when, you can find a used one for an adequate amount. Younger brother – 713cf. The tripod itself is stable and very (very) durable. Withstands water, frost, wind. A load of 5 kg is easy. Collets (unlike clips) last a very long time.

      The complete head is a unique piece of hammer/pistol design. I don't know what else to call it. The system is extremely convenient, but the quick-release platform of its “proprietary” design is incompatible with the Arch. Therefore, if you lose it, you will not find a replacement right away. Plus for super-heavy glass - definitely not: I checked the old autofocus “trombones” from Canon and Nikon at most. However, they cannot compare with the MTO, and the latter, without additional support, is capable of snatching the bayonet mount with a bang.
      In general, the complete head is excellent if the setup does not have glass larger than 350 mm. Anything more massive is unlikely.

      Of the classic ball heads, you can find Benro or Sirui for little money. Both companies produce high-quality products.

      • Andrei

        Thank you, but unfortunately this is not on sale, including on Avito.

        • Andy From Far Away

          How can a node rail be an option? I use these mainly to correct the rotation point when shooting panoramas, but also sometimes to set the center of mass.

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