answers: 100

  1. Dima
    17.10.2017

    See a 200mm sharpness difference between VR1 and VR2. VR2 usually doesn’t sell second-hand, only you need to take a new one, so it’s interesting to give 16 thousand for it, if you can take used VR7 for 8-1 thousand.

    Reply

    • Denis
      18.10.2017

      but I would rather see VR, tk. VR2 has stub glitches (see here my message from 10.08.2017/XNUMX/XNUMX)
      and the new VR2 sells for 11 tyr, not 16

      Reply

      • Sergei
        05.04.2019

        With "glitches", Dima - you are simply out of luck.

        Reply

      • Sergei
        05.04.2019

        Sorry, Denis.

        Reply

    • Hope
      21.03.2018

      Dmitry. I bought this used VRII lens for 8000 rubles. in great condition. Even with a guarantee. I also thought for a long time whether to take such a new one. In my opinion, a new one is not worth the money. It costs about 14-16 tr.

      Reply

    • Sergei
      05.04.2019

      I think, Dima, you will not see the difference.

      Reply

  2. Sergei
    05.04.2019

    Thank you, Arkady, for your detailed, clear and professional descriptions of photographic equipment. It helps me, an amateur photographer, to navigate with the choice. I have been photographing the Nicon D50 since 2006 with an 18-55mm "kitovik", I wanted to update my photo capabilities, I took this new Nikkor 55-200 after meeting it in your publications. Thank you very much. VR works great, shoots at 200mm from 1/10 with a fully open aperture. I also like the focusing speed, I don't feel delays at all, I managed to shoot pigeons on the fly. Maybe 200mm is missing a little, I wanted to buy a new 70-300mm, but today it turned out to be a problem - the ones you describe are not on sale. I wanted to read from you about new products in these ranges 70-400 for my “old man” D50, although, of course, I’m thinking about replacing it with “7000” -k cat. it will be possible to purchase. Personally, I prefer “7000”, but apparently I can't find new ones. my attitude is biased. I will be happy to get acquainted with your new materials about AVAILABLE PHOTOTECHNIQUE NICON Sincerely Sergey Postnikov, Tula.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      05.04.2019

      Lenses above 300mm are quite expensive. From 70-300 it is better to take with a stabilizer, from inexpensive ones - sigma 70-300 os, Tamron 70-300 vc, Nikon 70-300 vr, Nikon 55-300 Vr

      Reply

  3. Dmitriy
    23.04.2019

    I confirm the problem with the stub that Denis described in the message dated 10.08.2017/XNUMX/XNUMX.
    At a focal length of 200mm at long shutter speeds (1/50 and slower), static scenes are obtained WITHOUT blur. At exposures 1/50 - 1/160 there is ALWAYS micro-lubrication. From 1/200 and shorter, there is no lubrication. It is best to check for 1 / 125th - then the micro-smear is the most pronounced and I repeat that I did not manage to make a single clear frame. And if you turn off the stub, then 1 / 125th 1 out of 3 frames are obtained without blur. And if you turn on the stub, then at a shutter speed of 1/20 at 200mm, the frame is almost always clear.
    I read it for 55-200 vr of the first version and for 55-300 vr - users also left similar reviews.
    Who owns this lens or other indicated dark telezoom, please try to make a clear frame of a static plot at 200mm with the stub turned on at a shutter speed of 1/125.

    Reply

  4. Alexander
    12.10.2019

    I have a 55-200 VR2 my favorite lens! And autofocus and sharpness and even some kind of my own drawing. I never let it down. It's a pity a bit dark. It's just that Nikon D5200 is a rather noisy device. C Sigma 17-50 turned out to be a good kit. Lenses should be tried and chosen for themselves. Now I'm looking at Tamron 85 VR, I really liked his drawing! Yes, photography is an expensive job, damn it ... And for macro I use an old Tamron 90. But as a portrait photographer only for close-ups. For some reason, 3 meters further. infinity again popodayet.Arkady Thank you for your work! Your site for me is like the Great Soviet Encyclopedia. I used to shoot on film and then on a soap dish Olympus. A couple of years ago I bought a Nikon d5200 DSLR and everything covered me - photography again. I hope it will not work. Again thanks!

    Reply

  5. Leonid
    14.11.2019

    I join the complaints about the stabilizer - there is the above problem. Lubricates at 1 / 60-1 / 200 exposures at the long end. Those. literally in the most stabilized range. Unfortunately, the level of English does not allow finding information about possible ways of treatment on foreign sites, can any of the local regulars unearthed something?

    Reply

    • Dmitriy
      19.11.2019

      Micro smudge not only at the long end, but throughout the entire focal range if the shutter speed falls within the range of 1/50 - 1 / focal. On the D3200, micro-lubrication is more pronounced than on the D7000. Changing the shutter speed and focal length within the specified shutter speed limits affects the magnitude of the micro-blur. I think that most users do not pay attention to it and think that the reason is something else, especially since after resizing to the size of social networks, the micro-lubricant becomes even less noticeable. The funny thing is that I consistently manage to take very clear frames of static scenes at 1 / 8s and a focal length of 200mm even on the D3200 (24mp), but if I set the shutter speed to 1/50 - 1/160, then I can not take a single fully clear picture static plot. I adapted by avoiding this range of shutter speeds, for this I often use shutter priority mode. The lens itself is very worthwhile. 55-135mm is sharp starting from the open, and after 135mm it is better to clamp to 200mm to f / 8.

      Reply

      • Michael
        19.11.2019

        Can catches cotton mirrors? You can try to set the delay

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        20.11.2019

        I tried it. Does not help.

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        21.11.2019

        Once again I conducted tests with shutter modes. I have a D7000 and a D3200. I thought that a quiet shutter implies a delay after raising the mirror and before the shot. But no. The silent shutter immediately takes a picture after raising the mirror as in normal mode, but then does not immediately lower the mirror, but waits until the shutter button is released.
        There are no other modes on the D3200 that could introduce a delay after raising the mirror and before taking a picture. In LV, I don’t know if there is a delay or not, but the micro-lubricant remains. Maybe because the camera is less fixed.
        On D7000 I tried “MUP” mode at 200mm and 1 / 100s. In it, the micro-blur is significantly reduced, but still at 1 / 25s the frame is sharper than by 1/100. Then I tried setting “D11 ″ (Shutter lag). With her, the picture really turns out to be about the same sharp as at 1 / 25s.
        We can say that turning on the "Shutter lag" mode solves the problem of micro-smears in the exposure range 1/50 - 1 / focal, but:
        1. There is no such mode on the younger models of cameras. There is also no “MUP” mode. The “Q” mode doesn't change anything at all.
        2. On advanced models in the “Shutter lag” mode, we naturally get a “shutter lag” of about 1 second, which makes a significant inconvenience when shooting non-staged scenes.

        Nevertheless, I consider this feature of VR to be a significant design flaw.

        Reply

      • Michael
        21.11.2019

        Well, of course, they screwed up again with the firmware and the sensitive VR sensor responds to popping at the time of shooting. Major defect

        Reply

      • Vladimir
        18.11.2020

        Asked Nikon tech support. Here is their answer:
        Subject: Problems with Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1: 4-5.6GII ED VR II Lens
        Good afternoon, Vladimir.

        After studying your pictures, we came to the conclusion that this case and those comments from the forum should be considered separately, since this problem can be influenced by many factors, especially the value of the focal length, the way the camera is fixed and even the physical characteristics of each individual user. Therefore, we cannot draw conclusions about the general problem of this lens model.

        We would also like to clarify that the longer the focal length of the lens, the more sensitive the camera is to shaking and small movements during the shutter release (even the fact that the release is performed on inhalation or exhalation can increase the shake, by analogy with a telescopic sight). However, improper camera holding and hand shake can only increase blurring.
        While checking your photos, we noticed that in two pictures taken with the same shutter speed (1/50 and even 1/100) the level of blur is very different. In this regard, we recommend setting a faster shutter speed when increasing the focal length from which shooting is carried out.
        We also tested the performance of our stock optics and can confirm that at slower shutter speeds (1/10, 1/20, 1/30) when shooting handheld, blurring due to hand movement and shake appears more often, but with a decrease in shutter speed, the level of blur is photo is dropping. Therefore, we have come to the conclusion that this is normal and does not indicate any problem with your camera or lens.
        As you can see from the graph at the link below, the VR II system compensates for shutter speed when shooting by 4 stops. It does help compensate for shake and vibration, but when shooting at longer focal lengths, we recommend setting a faster shutter speed to prevent blurring:
        https://www.nikonusa.com/Images/Micro-Sites/VR/technology/normal/
        We hope you find this information useful.

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        21.11.2020

        > We have also tested the performance of our stock optics and can confirm that at slower shutter speeds (1/10, 1/20, 1/30) when shooting handheld, blurring due to hand movement and shake appears more often, but with a decrease in shutter speed, the level photo blur is reduced.

        Something technical support misunderstood the problem.
        Everyone knows that with increasing focal length it is necessary to shorten the shutter speed. But this lens has just the opposite feature.
        Let's take an extreme example with a 200mm focal length.
        Shorter than 1 / 200s, most of the photo is without smearing.
        1 / 160s-1 / 50s - almost all photos are blurred. Moreover, in the region of 1 / 50s-1 / 125s, the lubrication is close to 100% of the samples.
        1 / 10s-1 / 40s - almost all photos are without blur.
        1 / 8s - half of the photo confidently without smearing.
        It's all at a focal length of 200mm!
        As seen:
        1. Stub works fine at 1 / 8-1 / 40.
        2. At 1 / 50-1 / 160 stub interferes. With a stub, not a single photo can be taken without lubrication. If the stub is turned off, then one of the 4-5 photos will be without lubrication.
        3. 1/200 and shorter photo is already without lubrication, but there is no need for a stub, here it works well without a stub.

        Reply

      • Denis
        23.11.2020

        what Dmitry writes is not interesting to tech support. she fulfilled her mission - she answered that the user does not know how to use the lens. and they probably did not take this DX lens into their hands :) and even more so to test it - why ??? (I am Denis who wrote here about this issue in 2017)

        Reply

      • Vladimir
        14.11.2020

        Plus to the problem, there is also micro-lubricant at exposures of 1 / 50-1 / 200. On the previous version of the lens, this was probably less noticeable due to the resolution.

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        16.11.2020

        I continue to use it on the D5300 and D7000. On the first one I avoid this exposure range, on the second one due to the 16MP, heavier construction and when using the Mup-mode, even in this exposure range, the micro-smear is practically imperceptible, especially after bringing the photo to resolution for social networks. Still, for 3500 UAH for a used one, this lens is very good for its small size, incredible stub at shutter speeds longer than 1/30 (on the D7000, you can set the shutter speed to 200 / 1s for static scenes by 8mm) and excellent sharpness even when open.

        Reply

      • B. R. P.
        17.11.2020

        3500 UAH for a used one? where are the prices?

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        17.11.2020

        I can't understand this question like “very cheap” or “very expensive”. Just in case, I'll clarify that we are talking about the second VR version. A new one is sold for 6400 UAH. Used there are very different options. As a rule, it is sold by inexperienced people who do not understand the difference between NON VR, VR, VR2. Therefore, it sometimes happens that there is an offer for UAH 2400, and there is also for UAH 4000+. Now, for example, on olx there is just an ad for 2400 UAH for the second version, and even in perfect condition and with a hoy-filter. Personally, I bought used as new in "Fotik" for 3500 UAH. Then there were several copies of them. But they all sold out quickly.

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        17.11.2020

        And I will add more. It often happens that the ad says “VR II”, and the photo shows a red inscription “VR”. This is not the second, but the first version. So each such announcement needs to be carefully considered so that there is exactly the second version. And by the way, the same applies to 18-55. The latest versions of VR II and AF-P are very good in sharpness. Changed my sigma 17-55 f / 2.8 to AF-P 18-55 and enjoying it. Of course I also have other lenses for bokeh. I almost always take pictures in the open, I have no complaints about the sharpness, except if very close to the edges. But there the sigma on the open was the same. But autofocus is beyond praise. Instantaneous, very accurate (unlike sigma), quiet, the ring does not spin and with the possibility of constant manual control. Even videos with AF tracking can be shot on the D5300. Sometimes it crawls, but very quickly and you don't always notice it. Of course, mirrorless cameras are far from it, but AF-P for Nikon DSLRs is a big step forward considering the cost of 18-55 AF-P :), which is often also sold at the price of the first versions. Very underrated lenses.

        Reply

      • Dmitriy
        17.11.2020

        Correction: I meant 17-50 sigma, although in fact it gives an angle at the long end in the region of 45mm, not 50mm. Measured experimentally, comparing with Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4 and Tamron 24-70.

        Reply

      • Vladimir
        29.11.2020

        It’s even a pity that we changed the old version of the lens to a new one. The picture from the old one, which is not retractable, was much better, the troubles with the extracts did not torment - I turned on the camera and took the frame. Now, while you choose the exposure, you either miss the frame, or you ruin it with micro-smears. Yes, if everything fits together, the frame is sharp, at the edges of the frame it is very noticeable compared to the previous version. The reason why I changed to a new one is the size of the lens - I did not fit into the bag.

        Reply

  6. Vladimir
    10.11.2020

    Typically, the lens was discontinued this summer, and there is nothing to replace it. , Only used options remain

    Reply

    • Michael
      10.11.2020

      And 55-300?

      Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      10.11.2020

      DX 55-300, DX 70-300, DX 70-300 VR

      Reply

  7. B. R. P.
    17.11.2020

    To Dmitry from 17.11.2020/12/25 at XNUMX:XNUMX: It meant that it was very expensive for such a lens, no matter what version there is a stub.

    Reply

    • Dmitriy
      17.11.2020

      Just the stubs in the VR lenses of the first and second versions most likely differ little. But optically they are very different. The second version is designed for multi-pixel modern crop matrices. And the first version is for small-pixel matrices.

      Reply

  8. Vladimir
    02.02.2021

    And at what shutter speeds can you shoot with this lens without a stabilizer during the day, since there are problems with micro-blur within 1 / 50-1 / 200.
    Maybe someone tested it in practice?

    Reply

    • Dmitriy
      06.02.2021

      It doesn't matter which lens is it day or night. Without a stub, the standard rule for crop cameras is that the shutter speed should be 1 / (focal * 1.5) and shorter. Moreover, depending on the number of megapixels and the rigidity of fixing the shooting position, there may be deviations from this rule.

      Reply

  9. Vladimir
    15.06.2021

    This lens turned out to be a good budget portrait lens with good lighting at focal lengths up to 150, then it washes a little further. It is convenient to shoot in M ​​mode at iso 200-400, shutter speed 1 / 320-1 / 500 and the smallest possible aperture, but in the evening it is certainly not relevant, you have to lift up the iso a lot.

    Reply

  10. Egor
    16.11.2021

    I can confirm that the micro-lubricant, which is described here in the comments, is indeed present. Especially noticeable at exposures 1 / 50-1 / 160, as Dmitry wrote. Most of all, this ailment interferes and is striking on multi-pixel cameras. I will attach a photo from the D5200 for clarity. In general, the lens left only positive emotions due to its sharpness. Although the stabilizer is problematic, it also makes it possible to shoot handheld at 200mm and a shutter speed of 1/20.

    Reply

  11. Alexandra
    24.12.2021

    And here I am choosing a lens for subject shooting, mostly on Nikon D5300. And I choose between 55-200 sigma and this one. Who can tell what?
    There is a whale 18-55mm and recently purchased a Nikon 35mm 1.8.

    I would be glad to any advice and discussion)

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      24.12.2021

      Fixes are usually taken under the subject, they are sharper

      Reply

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