According provided by lens SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P many thanks to the store FOCUSFILM (subscribe to INSTAGRAM, check out olx). There you can find many interesting film cameras and manual lenses.
In short
The SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P is an old short manual focus telephoto designed for film cameras. The review shows a version for cameras with an M42 connecting thread, but this lens was also produced for all the main popular mounts of that time.
SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P is very interesting as a portrait lens (all modern autofocus like 135 / 1.8 / 2 here). The SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P has pleasing bokeh, and very few lenses boast a 135/2 focal length ratio.
SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P is very well built and pleasant to handle. Unfortunately, SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P uses an anti-reflection coating that does not cope well with side and back light. The lens has a very large minimum focusing distance of almost 2 meters.
Main technical characteristics SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P
Name of instances from review | Near front lens 'SOLIGOR 135mm 1:2 P ø77mm No.17506743'
Additional marks on the lens 'Lens Made in Japan + 135mm CD +P' |
Basic properties |
|
Front Filter Diameter | 77 mm |
Focal length | 135 mm |
Zoom ratio | 1 x (this is fix) |
Designed by | for film cameras with different mounts. In the review, a lens with a M42 x 1 / 45.5 thread mount |
Number of aperture blades | 8 straight (not rounded) petals |
Tags |
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Diaphragm | from F / 2 to F / 22, one intermediate value can be set between each pair of numbers (except between F / 16 <-> F / 22 and F / 11 <-> F / 16) |
MDF (minimum focusing distance) | 1.8 meters |
The weight | 760 grams |
Optical design | 6 elements in 5 groups. Pattern drawing not found.
I suspect the circuit something like this |
Lens hood | Must screw into the front filter thread |
Period | Around 1974 |
Manufacturer country | LENS MADE IN JAPAN (Lens made in Japan). |
Price | They don't sell new. In the used version about 300 dollars |
SOLIGOR 135mm 1:2 C/DP uses a simple chemical coating (front lens view 1, 2), which leads to very poor back and side light performance.
Assembly, control, focus
Visually, the SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P looks very solid, the thickening at the front of the lens makes it look like some super-telephoto lenses of the time.
Lens body It is made qualitatively. The focus ring has a very wide anti-slip insert made of hard rubber or similar material.
For aperture values and focusing distance, a special recessed window is provided.
There is an A/M aperture control switch. The diaphragm consists of eight petals. At hidden values, you can see that the hole takes a poorly rounded shape (view).
SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P uses large filters with a diameter of 77mm.
The lens has a built-in retractable telescopic hood.
The SOLIGOR 135mm C/D 1:2 P focus ring rotates approximately 225 degrees (5/8 of a full turn). During focusing, the lens trunk moves forward, but does not rotate. The rotation of the focus ring is very smooth and pleasant, with a 'oily' stroke. It is very pleasant to work with the lens.
On the case there is a focus distance scale, a depth of field scale and a mark for working in the infrared spectrum.
The front lens cap is metal, without latches, just fits snugly against the body frame. There is a special fabric seal on the inside of the lid. The cover is fixed tightly. Removing and installing the cover is pleasant.
The chamfers of the lenses are not blackened enough, which leads to additional reflections, especially when working in back and side light.
Sample photos (Full Frame)
The pictures in the gallery were taken with a camera Canon EOS 5D (Full Frame, 13 MP) and adapter M42 -> Canon EF. No processing ZEROJPEG. Sample photos, specially for this review, prepared Natalia (Instagram).
Source photos can download / watch this link (90+ photos, Google Drive gallery).
Sample photos (APS-C)
All photos in the gallery above are shown without processing. Camera used Sony a3500 (Sony Exmor APS-C HD CMOS sensor at 20 MP). All photos are in-camera JPEG, technology ZEROJPEG. Some photos suffered due to the effect bokeh degradation at fast shutter speeds and wide apertures during EFCS (Y Sony a3500 EFCS cannot be turned off). The camera was used with an adapter M42 -> Sony E (NEX).
Source photos can download / watch this link (30+ photos, Google Drive gallery).
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
Results
SOLIGOR 135mm 1:2 C/DP is a wonderful creative solution.
10 main advantages
- excellent build, retractable lens hood, professional SOLIGOR P series lens
- convenient focus ring that rotates 225 degrees
- standard filter diameter is 77 mm (many professional solutions use this diameter)
- A/M switch for aperture control (useful for modern cameras)
- low cost in the secondary market
- nice color reproduction, no yellow-green degradation common to some older lenses
- availability of versions for many mirror mounts, which simplifies the adaptation and / or use of the lens on modern cameras
- very weak vignetting at f/2.0
- low distortion
- beautiful bokeh
10 main disadvantages
- only 8 aperture blades
- big weight
- must use a threaded hood, not a bayonet hood
- large MDF (1.8 meters)
- very big problems when working in back and side light, mediocre contrast
- very strong chromatic aberration (both longitudinal and transverse)
- not the best optics enlightenment
- mediocre resolution at f / 2.0 (but quite sufficient for portrait shooting)
- lens bevels not blackened enough
- a rare lens that is difficult to find on sale, possibly overpriced
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Soligor is comfortable. The focus ring is easy to maneuver. The lens is relatively light, you can quickly take out a camera with a lens from your backpack and focus on the right moment. Gives a nice picture, quite sharp and there is softness of the image as well.
In sunlight, it gives chromatic aberrations, but for creative experiments, they may not be so critical.
If it was a question of choosing to your collection, this lens would be there)
Quality lens for film (once cost some money). On the figure, in the sun, does not hold.
How much? $430? O_O
Zhostka, given the cost of better analogues.
and what is cheaper there by analogs?
Samyang 135 F2, which costs the same new, but in used form just $ 200 ... 300
This one is quite
Optically it's even better than the old 135/2L, great lens. He would still have autofocus, but then he would get samyang 135 / 1.8%)
KO-120 120/2.1 or KO-120M 120/1.8 - $10 + adapter from China for ~$30.
Well, of course this is not an analogue, do not invent
Not an analogue only in the sense that you have to do something with the handles a little more. Although thanks to the Chinese, this work is reduced to a minimum. If purely in terms of optical properties, in the center KO-120 will give odds to this soligor. Well, anastigmats like the cheap 35KP-1.8 / 140 or, moreover, the more expensive Visionars will leave the lens out of the review in terms of optical quality.
Well, yes, and any amateur photographer can install the aperture in KO / 35KP. I repeat, projectors are not an analogue
In a lens with a total cost of $ 50, there may not be a diaphragm, if the result is important at an open aperture. $350-450 and $50 - the difference is very big. And it’s very good that you don’t need to spend a lot of money to try such a ratio of aperture and focal length.
If the AF DC-Nikkor 105mm 1:2D DIC costs up to $400, it’s true, I don’t know an analogue
Lifting up your old notes and marveling at the sake of the cuckoo.
Sigma AF macro 105mm f / 2,8 EX DG (which is small 10 lenses in 9 groups) in 2006 cost $330. Prices from that hour changed, not in the best direction, especially at once. And with the advent of mirrorless lenses, the prices on manual lenses grew at a razi, and on deaks, then they went up in a gloomy way. And smartphones can’t influence anything here. It’s good that you will lose it for a long time))
In 1986 and 1990, small installation batches of the Fodis-1K 135mm / 1,8 lens (six lenses) were produced at KOMZ.
It currently has a purely collectible value.
After the release of the Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm/1,8 out of 11 lenses (including low dispersion lenses), all early designs were considered retro optics.
Oh, it seems I have 135/1.8, which looks exactly like the one at the top right in the picture - Spiraton... What I don’t like about it is that there are some little spots in the sides in the center (not because of dirt on the matrix).
Arkady, vdyachnist for looking at that lens.
And Natalia is the best for the photographs, the victors for yoga zastosuvannyam.
I wanted to take a skin photo of a better value of the aperture. I understand that the camera itself does not write to the exif її meaning, but ...
Thank you. Approximately according to shutter speed and ISO, be guided, basically - everything is at 2.0
You can also use the bokeh shape: octagons are noticeable on covered ones.