Alteration of Jupiter-3 1.5 / 50 for Sony E mount. Article from reader Radozhiva

lens conversion material Jupiter 3 with a Contax-Kiev RF mount, specially prepared for Radozhiva Alexander.

Alteration of Jupiter-3 1.5 / 50 for Sony E mount

Alteration of Jupiter-3 1.5 / 50 for Sony E mount

In short

This review contains a recipe for a budget remake Jupiter 3 1.5/50 with Contax-Kiev RF mount for Sony E mount and sample photos on FF BZK. Brief summary: compact, convenient, the picture is interesting, has the right to life with a free lens block. The donor of the helicoid was broken Helios 44-2, shank donor - adapter M42-Sony E. A warning to the estheticians - the recipe for alteration is illustrated with photographs from a mobile phone.

!vs_50_1_4-1on_a7s_2

Subjective characteristic

On the open soft. It catches flare, in the backlight the contrast drops noticeably. In the presence of a bright light source, even outside the viewing angle, a rainbow is guaranteed. Sometimes it's double.

For evening street photography, I would recommend a lens hood (“highly artistic” photos “triple rainbow over a lamppost” and “UFO shines through an abandoned tram depot” are given below, without a lens hood, a third of the frames will be like this). The bokeh is quite sharp, but interesting - multiple contours, well-defined circles. Pronounced asymmetric "lemons" in the corners on the open - vignetting makes itself felt; at aperture up to ~2.8, they become round.

Photographing people on it, by the way, did not go. Partly due to the combination of "fifty dollars and full frame", partly (I do not deny) my hands, partly - the features of blurring the background. When focusing on a typical distance for a half-length portrait, there is a high probability of getting a uniquely contrasting psychedelic background pattern that stands out strongly from the foreground.

MDF, in this version of the alteration, approx. 30 cm

Comparison

Of the fast fifty dollars in the house there is a Canon EF 50mm F1.4 USM, we will compare it with it) Close aperture, similarly, it does not differ in ringing sharpness “with an open” ... And about 40 years of difference. Crop, 800px. width (from 4240px). I bring photos from the open and at F2.8. Sony A7s, manual focus, tripod, daylight. The processing is minimal, I slightly tightened the levels, I didn’t touch the contrast, I didn’t sharpen it.

Canon at 2.8 -> Jupiter at 2.8, Canon at 1.4 -> Jupiter at 1.5

From the unexpected - Jupiter 3 at F1.5 is noticeably darker than the Canon EF 50mm F1.4 when open. exposure 1/120s versus 1/200s with approximately identical output histogram.

Redesign

Initially, I did not plan to spread it anywhere. Photofixation led casually and on the mobile.

Many details have undergone revision with a hacksaw and a file, therefore the option “to return as it was and repeat the process on the video” is technically impossible. On the other hand, for a person with minimal experience in optics, everything should be clear.

We unscrew the Helios lens block (in my case, I got it out with my hands). The lens block from Jupiter “falls through with a whistle” in its place, the difference in diameters is about 0.5 mm along the thread.

We look at the resulting design, we estimate the working segment. We are aware that the M42-Sony E adapter is needed quite interesting - for the difference in the working lengths of the M39 and Sony E, but with the M42 thread.

My version - tested, but laborious - we shorten the Chinese M42-NEX, we seat the ring with the M42 thread deeper. (Possible alternatives - we buy collapsible M42-NEX and M39-NEX, we rearrange M42 instead of M39. Or we go to the turner and bore the M39-NEX to M42). It is possible to use a short M42 macro ring instead of a threaded ring from an adapter, there will be much less work with a file.

Adapter body after cutting

Adapter body after cutting

Something like this, there were no vices at hand, the cutting line was chosen empirically ... Isn't it, the result is worthy of a highly qualified programmer)

The ring is already turned and on the shank

The ring is already turned and on the shank

In my case (Fotga) there is a ~3mm step on the case inside, respectively, we remove the same amount from the ring in diameter. File for a long time. The chances of getting misalignment / non-perpendicularity are minimal (unless the adapter is completely curved). We make sure that the turned ring runs along the diameter and sits down to the bottom of the adapter.

We carefully wipe everything from dirt and sawdust, wind the resulting ring onto the helicoid shank, insert the lens block into the helicoid. In order not to fall out, we fix it with screws (requires the skills of working with a tap), epoxy, or pin. Due to the contact area of ​​the turned ring with the body, backlash is practically eliminated. We adjust to infinity with a slight overrun of the selection of the position of the lens block in the helicoid, fix it (my choice is a strip of thin cardboard and a drop of epoxy between the internal thread of the helicoid and the external lens block). We get the picture below

Pre-assembly of the structure

Pre-assembly of the structure

So it is already possible to take pictures, but it is inconvenient. We disassemble the Helios lens block, from it we need a diaphragm setting ring. I temporarily fixed it to the Jupiter ring of the diaphragm through 3 layers of double-sided tape, I think it will be so until it falls off.

Temporary aperture ring mounting option

Temporary aperture ring mounting option

And, the final touch. Using a 40 mm cover with internal hooks seemed unsafe and inconvenient to me, therefore we disassemble the remains of Helios, take the part shown in the photo below, and saw off a piece with a filter thread from it.

donor part

donor part

desired result

desired result

We adjust to Jupiter with a needle file, it should sit with an interference fit on the fixed part of the body. The ideal option would be to drill 3 holes, cut the M1 thread and secure with the screws left over from Helios. But in this project, I set myself the goal of using a tool that is accessible to everyone and does not require skills.

Therefore, a drop of epoxy, only carefully, next to the diaphragm ring. Alas, in my case, the donor thread is hopelessly jammed, but this does not interfere with the use of caps with a diameter of 49mm.

With the resulting decorative ring

With the resulting decorative ring

At the output, we have a relatively compact boring staff member on the FF. Additional encouraging factors are that

  • Not a single Kiev with a Contax mount was injured
  • It turned out, at least, more aesthetic and ergonomic Zenitar 1.5 / 50

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Comments: 11, on the topic: Alteration of Jupiter-3 1.5 / 50 for Sony E mount. Article from reader Radozhiva

  • Tserg

    Author, what is the meaning of this work?

    • Author

      Free manual 50 F1.5 full frame. Seems like a pretty good goal.)

      • Arkady Shapoval

        yes, mirrorless

      • Tserg

        Alexander, it is clear that a full-frame and fast fifty dollars is always good and universal. Especially if you don't have to spend a lot of money for it.
        I meant how comfortable it is for you to use such a lens yourself and how durable it will be? I myself suffer from such garbage, and for me, when reworking, these questions are always relevant. In more than one year of practice, I made an unambiguous conclusion - when reworking (adaptation) of manual lenses, you should always have a lathe at hand, which gives an accuracy of at least 0,05 mm or a highly qualified turner with such a machine that knows a lot about photography.

        • Author

          In terms of convenience, it differs slightly from Helios. The operation of the helicoid is identical, the aperture ring rubs a little.
          In terms of reliability, while the flight is normal, I don’t see any critical weaknesses. In terms of resistance to external influences, I would rate it higher than, for example, Canon EF 50 / 1.4 (I know what I'm talking about, I had experience in straightening the helicoid)
          The optical axis is probably shifted (shifted) by 0.1mm, while maintaining alignment (without tilt). At least, on the open at infinity, the angles are the same.
          Actually, one of the reasons for the publication was that it was lucky to pick up all the components so that the alteration turned out to be feasible without a lathe with an acceptable result.
          Perhaps, on occasion, I will order a 3D printed spacer for the aperture ring, then it will be indistinguishable from Helios 44-2 in operation.

          • Rodion

            In terms of convenience, you have it even better than the usual Yu-3 M39 thanks to the smaller MDF.

  • Sergei

    Now Contax RF / Kiev adapters for Sony E / Nex are not cheap.
    From 2 to 3 thousand rubles.
    And so you don’t have to mess with the file yourself - buy it ready.

    • after all

      2-3 thousand for piece goods is not at all expensive. And the whole point is to tinker with a file, I doubt that professional photographers will fiddle with adapters and manual lenses.

  • after all

    << >>

    Well, how not expected? It is quite expected that with the same hole, a more modern and technologically advanced lens transmits more light. I always wanted Jupiter3, but today I was completely disappointed. Frank dear UG (((

    • Author

      Let's just say ... Definitely overpriced in the market. It has a rather specific picture that can be cool used on a suitable plot.
      At the same time, I would not call it universal.
      Well, let's not forget that my impressions are from working at FF. On the crop it will be closer to the portrait.

      • Rodion

        As an alternative to Yu3, one can only name 7artizans 50 / 1.1, while other glasses do not have such a picture at all. Actually, this is the reason for the high price of Yu-3.

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