The gallery below was filmed on Nikon D40 using multiple lenses of the family Helios-81 for September and October 2021:
- MC HELIOS-81H 2/50 (inscription in Latin letters)
- MS HELIOS-81M 2/53 (namely 'M' and precisely '53', copper petals)
- HELIOS-81N 2/53 (namely 'H' and precisely '53', silvery petals)
- ARSAT H 1: 2 50mm (modern name for some Soviet lenses)
В EXIF All photographs, at the bottom of the photograph in the white text strip, the model used is indicated.
Jpeg source photos watch and / or download here (200+ photos on Nikon D40). Photos from the gallery above can still be viewed on my 500PX.
It's important: overview Helios-81 (2011) substantially updated.
I should note that all lenses experienced mechanical problems during intensive work. Basically, their diaphragm was stuck, the diaphragm broke, the focusing ring was torn off, the body was divided. Therefore, for example, all the pictures on ARSAT H 50mm 1: 2 in the gallery were shot exclusively at F / 2.0 (even landscapes, if you want to shoot on Helios, be prepared for difficulties).
Past in the autumn I filmed a lot for myself to the same classic old lady Nikon D40 and the usual and rather 'boring' fifty dollars Nikon 50 / 1.8G (Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical)... In general, the result obtained with the original lens is more stable. WITH Helios-81 you need to overcome many times more difficulties (manual focusing, metering exposure, glare, loss of contrast, mechanical problems due to age, etc.). But still with Helios-81 it's not that hard to get a good result.
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How bright and beautiful everything is!
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The color of autumn foliage is just fire, not every modern camera will give the same.
I want to note that the cost of the kit is approximately equal to a couple of everyday trips to the grocery store. True, there is no focusing, autofocus with 3000 points and 32 noisy megapixels with eye tracking.
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my d40 was bought for $ 45, Helios on average $ 15 each
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Photos are gorgeous, sincere, no doubt about it. But already a little tired of seeing theses about the exclusivity of color. Create a “bright autumn” preset for your camera in your favorite raw-converter, where the general saturation will be added and the HSL color layout will be adjusted to taste.
Of course, this thesis has a continuation “it's all wrong, the nuances will be different”. Of course, only it will not be better or worse, just something a little different. With the same success, you can put two monitors side by side and they will display slightly (at best) differently. But something is not visible to the praises of specific models of monitors such as "this is such a color, I will never change it."
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That's exactly what is different. But it is often just worse.
If I hadn't dealt with the new Nikons myself, I would not have said this.
It is good to write about this “added general saturation and basta”, but it would be better to show “so I can wind it up from my canon in the same way”, preferably with a description of the settings progress (but you can do without it ^ _ ^)) I looked at your instu, but there there is nothing like it.
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Well, Oleg has excellent shots there, including similar ones (like this)
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Thank you for this rating: 3
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I did not say that Oleg's shots are bad, on the contrary, I would mark about half of what was laid out with a like))) But I did not see exactly SUCH colors as in the topic - clean and bright.
However, if we take into account his answer, they do not have to be there (even if 60d allows it)
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Sometimes I think about buying a D40 with a fix and from an unfounded debater to become an experimenter)
Like, take several pairs of pictures, turn the preset on one pair, check its adequacy on the others.
In fact, my experience is limited to Canon (60D / 6D), which have approximately the same color. Heard about problems with color reproduction in many Nikons, Sonya, but it seemed to me that this is more relevant for those who shoot in jpg, otherwise you can pick up a certain normalizing preset and then dance from it.
As for my insta - look, I really like the way Arkady takes pictures for himself, these photos are a rest for the soul. But that does not mean that I will try to do the same. I will try to convey how I felt a place. It's good when there is a camera, which seems to be an extension of the personality and conveys the scene as you see it inside yourself. But I still have that chaos in my head, and there are very different sensations from the scene, so for myself personally, I am in favor of the most neutral picture, into which I will already bring my feelings. In general, I am still just learning to see the frame, to understand the color. If we talk about a certain expression of color, then of the last I liked this photo of mine, while here I reduced the saturation and slightly shifted / compressed the range of shades through the Calibration of Lightroom. Here, of course, there was no goal of winding up "like D40", and I don't know how objectively this is a good photo, maybe it's just different:
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>> But that doesn't mean that I will try to do the same. I will try to convey how I felt some place
Thank you, adequate enough. Actually, it is - if I evaluated the pictures from the topic by color as a sample of a bright pure color (and for example I like this color) - this does not mean that everyone else is obliged to do the same)))
The frame above is somewhat similar (a little not that, but it seems, yes), for example, I also received something similar from 60, but without departures in red)) However, the old ones (XNUMXd can be considered old) are still quite colorful, with the new ones you have to be even more careful, lose colors there for one or two)))
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Very tasty photo)
Do you post it somewhere, the same insta?
> but no overhangs in red
Perhaps this is my handling of that. I would very much like to attach the original, but it has not survived (
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Thank you, I'm not spreading it, everything is on the table))
And it would be better to choose a lens for d40 with some of the fixes (given the low sensitivity of the matrix, this can be useful, and the bokeh is more beautiful) - if it's really budgetary - at least Helios 81n, Nikkor 35 1.8G if you want autofocus.
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And what about buying d40 and "becoming an experimenter" - it's so easy)) There are still proposals, and quite penny, especially at the present time. For the sake of such frames, you can take, kmk, to obtain a similar color, cameras such as d40 require the least effort in twisting the sources (and often immediately in the jpg picture)
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What else would you choose a lens for it? It should definitely be one
and inexpensive (I still don't want to invest in another system), but still allowing more or less control over the depth of field (due to the relative aperture or focal length).
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nippon kogaku 105 2.5, I shoot it on both kenon and nikon.
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I would recommend 35 / 1.8DX.
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50 1.8D is fine) If you do not mind 50 mm on the crop and some soapiness on the open
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18-105 seems to be the sharpest in comparison with 18-70 and 18-135 and still has a stub. I even found a D40 bundled with it for $ 90, but you have to torture the seller for the fortune.
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18-105 is not a bad lens. As for me, the best in terms of price / quality ratio, but you need to carefully check before buying, however, like any similar technique. I met 2 copies in which the right edge was slightly soapy, and in one of them autofocus did not work at distances <3m at a wide angle, but there was an obvious physical interference that was not immediately noticed.
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After many rave reviews on the internet about the delightful d40 color, I decided to personally check what was wrong with this camera. On the Internet, they mostly show beautiful pictures, but there is no forehead comparison. And I myself made such a comparison. In short, nothing special. With any camera, you can get the same footage. It's a pity you can add only one frame here.
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Fill in a folder on any cloud and discard the link, it will be interesting.
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I will add - preferably in good light and preserving the exiph)))
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I fully support it. Incidentally, I personally compared the d40 with a modern "soulless" camera - the color differences are extremely insignificant, and in some places they will have to be searched for. Moreover, one cannot say that these differences are for the better, or worse, just a little bit somewhere else, a barely perceptible shade. The same color difference exists in absolutely all cameras - take d600, d750, d800 - all have a different color 🤷🏻♂️
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A very strange statement - The color of autumn foliage is just fire, not every modern camera will give the same.
Open the forum for the photographer, see examples.
Or show a couple of your photos, where a poor, unhappy modern camera is not able to produce such a color))))
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Well, of course, as without the charting experts :)
I opened it. Looked. Filmed. I compared (CAM, and not according to the same type of preview cards with homogeneous illumination of an artificial scene, where in fact it is unrealistic to compare even ISO, not to mention the color), I will not prove anything to anyone :) Who needs to - he will compare, who does not need to - will prove that "there is no difference, dd is nonsense and finally you have a sect here", this will not affect your personal opinion about these cameras at all)))
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Victor, are you having trouble understanding what you are reading?
Or vision problems? Where are you on the forum photographed GRAPHICS ???
so far everything that you have said here is just not a very competent presentation of your thoughts.
Do you sincerely think that apart from you, well, no one understands color at all ???
Well, share well, at least something that confirms your profound conclusions))
everything is suitable - your paired photos, notorious graphics and third-party reviews)))
so far, everything is the other way around - tons of examples of photos on the forum for the photographer, graphics on different sites, third-party reviews - well, nowhere, well, nowhere, no one confirms that d40 gives out color better than modern cameras)))
strange, isn't it? ))))
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I still see problems with vision not at home, but at a specialist in charts))
Once again, especially for YOU (I would highlight it with a bold, but alas)
>> Who needs it - he will compare himself, who does not need - will prove that "there is no difference, dd is nonsense and finally you have a sect here", this will not affect personal opinion about these cameras at all)))
You just do not see what can (out of the box, by the way, and not by twisting and turning) d40 and the like. It's not scary, it happens.
And yes, since you “didn’t hear it, you thought it out” - I wrote somewhere about the value of DD for d40? No, I didn't. Yes, formally it is not high. But it is SUFFICIENT for 90% of the plots. At the same time, the camera has a bold, not "twisted" color, which is often not the case for cameras with excellent dd (does not apply to c5pro).
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Victor, well, at least a little bit we managed to find out what you still tried to convey to the dense audience.
- I wrote somewhere about the value of DD for d40? - You have something with your memory, not only with vision)))
here are your vyslovlyuvannya earlier - who needs - will compare himself, who does not need - will prove that "there is no difference, dd is nonsense and finally you have a sect here" -
So, well, it's good that you agreed with the obvious fact that the DD for d40 is “formally not high”))) Formally, this is a figure that is much lower than modern soulless cameras.
Step by step, we read you further - "But it is SUFFICIENT for 90% of plots." - I strongly recommend that you clarify - YOUR 90% of plots. Other people will obviously have a different opinion of both the stories and the sufficiency.
“At the same time, the camera has a bold, not“ twisted ”color, which is often not the case for cameras with excellent dd” - the camera does not have a BOLD color, as well as a LOW color. A frying pan is greasy when fish is fried on it. And the camera has color as a result of the sensor + strapping + profile - and as the manufacturer set the settings there, so it will be. It used to be fashionable to set saturation - Saturation (what you probably call FAT))) as much as possible - that is, SCROLLED in the profile of the camera itself, on modern soulless cameras (approximately starting from mark 4) this fashion was removed. Specifically in d40, the saturation of red and blue is lifted, which you liked so much))) Of course, this is all configured in the profiles (as I understand it, you do not know how to use it).
in dry low-fat residue - on the forum you did not find the photo, alas, examples of photos with good color on soulless modern cameras,
you do not read or understand reviews including previews,
you do not understand and do not know how to use profiles,
well, you don't understand the terminology)))
what kind of graphs are there, what is the conversation about)))
not the slightest proof of your statements, even the simplest paired photos from you should not be expected - you simply do not have them)))
it is obvious that you have this belief - that the grass used to be greener, FAT in the cell, etc .... as the classic said, to whom and the mare is the bride)))
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>> you have something with your memory, not only with your eyesight
And with you - with the perception of the obvious)) At least to interpret “prove dd is nonsense” as “excellent dd” can only be an alternatively gifted citizen))) Yes, and hyperkinesis worries, apparently, or what kind of “catching up” is this? )))
>> I strongly recommend that you clarify - YOUR 90% of plots
Be so kind as to keep your recommendations to yourself, if it doesn't bother you, because if I'm talking about “90% of the plots” this means exactly 90% of the plots in the total mass, and if you shoot only HDR cards (by the way, you have not shown ANYTHING that you shoot, except for DRL charts: D), this means that in the mass of ALL plots this is just a drop in the ocean.
>> Of course, this is all configured in the profiles (as I understand it, you do not know how to use this)
Well, of course, it is tuned, in words, in verbiage)) Which “on paper Leo Tolstoy, but in fact ..” But in reality, for some reason, such twisting profiles cannot display anything like that)) Coincidence? I don't think (c)
I will not comment on the other stream of unhealthy consciousness of a typical literal Internet fighter, sorry, I cannot waste my personal time so mediocre, unlike you)))
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Yes, and it is not necessary for you, Mikhail, to work hard to answer this comment, because it is quite obvious that playing chess with a pigeon is a futile occupation)) I apologize to the author of the blog for distracting from the topic and clogging up the database with unnecessary bytes.
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Victor, a separate question for you, of increased complexity - well, share, how did you see that the DD for d40 is not “nonsense”? in general, you probably opened a new direction in science, until now, SSDs due to voltage and noise, ALL SSDs had problems with DD and high ISO.
You managed to make the discovery that in d40 SSD the sensor has a wide DD typical of the Shanghai leopard! )))
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"Who needs it - he will compare himself"
So I compared - I can say with confidence that all this is nonsense. I took paired shots in identical conditions. Yes, of course there is a difference, but different cameras will always have it, and this is not a matter of d40. Take d600 and d750 and d800 and a bunch of others - everyone will have a different color. And all this is extremely unobtrusive, you will have to look for differences head to head comparing the same frames. D40 is completely unremarkable in color, it is neither better nor worse. There are just subtle differences in shades.
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here is a link with examples and paired photos https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/21
It is easy to see that the color of the d40 does not differ in any way from the cameras of competitors, including the kenon.
modern cameras will definitely give out color no worse)))
Well, the dynamic range of the d40 is generally sad
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/18
so there are no miracles, for $ 45 you get exactly what it costs. Shanghai leopard for the price of a dyed rabbit is canceled! )))
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How did the contrast in the photo with a birch in the backlight not subside? Maybe it's ARSAT? My 81n in the back almost goes blind.
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All images are labeled with specific copies in the white stripe below EACH photo
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Can you tell me which hood will be optimal for this lens? Not specifically the model, but the general form factor and size
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any for a 50mm lens that is screwed into a 52mm or 49mm thread. It also depends on the crop / full frame. For a crop, you can take a longer one. At one time I used a metal from Jupiter-37A
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Nikon D5100
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Here's a long under cropped d5100 will be just right. The only thing is, measure what thread your Helios has, they are 49 mm (early versions) and 52 mm (later versions)
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Thanks to. The thread is 52mm for both. Helios 81n 93g. and Arsat H 96g. ))
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And I had a plastic one for Jupiter-37A.
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Arkady, as always, a bright photo! And she herself filmed on Helios, though for a long time. What can I say, apparently each mechanism has its own term.
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Thank you
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The shroud rules https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/h-50.jpg :)
The rest is quite worthy.
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How do you label photos? Separately on each or automatically in the program?
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In batches using FastStone Photo Resizer
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Tell me about the SONY NEX 5N lens. Adapter for M 42 is
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Any of Helios-44, for example, such - https://radojuva.com/2011/12/gelios-44m-2-review/
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I photographed with Helius 44. I still can't get such a bright contrast. As in the photo in the example for the review.
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The first 300.000 frames on GeliOs are always difficult
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I would like a more detailed review of Helius and SONY NEX 5N. Or it is not worthy of attention against the background of old DSLRs.
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The drawing is similar in places to "Helios-103"
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Color, of course, fire. On Sony, too, nothing, but not that
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Well, the Helios are all alike
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Although I don’t have a D40, but no matter how I buy 81n now, I don’t know ... besides, it is for Nikon, you can wind it up on my FF. Thanks for the great photos! By the way, I have never met a D45 for 40 dollars, at least 100-120 are usually asked for it, however, in excellent condition.
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Helios 81H + Nikon FM2
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For a yak?
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Fujicolor Pro 400H
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nice
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I had a Helios 81H Early version with a filter thread 49. There were no problems with the diaphragm, only metal dust fell from it.
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Great! Today I walked with the Dynax 7D, the matrix there seems to be the same as on the Nikon D40. There was a Sony SAL55200-2 lens. I am also very pleased with the result. Everything is right in RAW - it's just amazing) Even if we have snow, the main thing is the bright sun!
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well, or behold, it's a pity you can't have several photos at once)
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yet)
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Handsomely)
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Good day. advise what is better for D3500 nikkor 50 1: 1.8D or helios 81n. It is clear that both the one and the other at 3500 will have manuals, but what is more interesting from the picture? or is there no difference? I really liked 81n, but there is a problem of focusing on the crop, although I liked the preset aperture. Nikkor, as I understand it, is no different.
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Better autofocus. Dig up - take used Nikon 50 / 1.8G. Or you might even try to take Yongnuo 50 / 1.8... You can also look at Nikon 35 / 1.8DX and Yongnuo 35 / 2.0.
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Thanks for the advice Arkady. 35 DX is already there, but I can't understand him yet. I want something sharper and more interesting in terms of color rendition
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Alexey, look for a plot or theme that inspires you. Take pictures of a beautiful girl at sunset.
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Complete detachment from small format with b / w in favor of medium, love for slides on ORWOCHROM at Zenith with Helios in the 80s and early 90s, then soap dishes and kodaks, and agfa, and sometimes Fuji, and then 4 Mp, 8 Mp with a stub and a good zoom, they returned me to a digital mirror and pain / less normal optics ... But laziness - I can't do it without autofocus. And I can't say anything about Nikons either, for the canonoid is already fifteen years old. About fixes - from 1.8 and below, but also from the focal point. And I won't say anything else.
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Do you get it with a hood? I have 81H with D800, the sharpness is very high, even without edits. The contrast is lost slightly, but not difficult to correct.
But! If we compare the picture from an artistic point of view, then in the old Helios there is something like that (not even the notorious bokeh, I don't seem to chase after it) old, or something. The feeling that I got a picture like in the last century, a little embellished reality, or something. 81N - more technical, IMHO. The picture is more realistic if you do not do anything else in the editor. Although more interesting than the usual 50 1.4.
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I shoot without a lens hood. Vintage style is partly due to the old optical scheme, poor enlightenment (consider it as weak contrast), poor blackening of the petals (also affects the contrast).
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At one time, it was thanks to the blog that the desire to purchase appeared. It's a pity, there are not enough opportunities to shoot
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Only in the forest)
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Strange, it didn't load ...
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