Nikon D810. Review from the reader Radozhiva

Nikon D810 review specially for Radozhiva prepared Stanislav Sugatov.

Nikon D810. Review from the reader Radozhiva

Nikon D810. Review from the reader Radozhiva

The Nikon D810 camera was announced in June 2014 and has become a kind of "bug fix" for its predecessor D800 in particular for autofocus. It has a CMOS matrix on board without an anti-aliasing filter and an Expeed 4 processor, which has a positive impact on the accuracy of the autofocus system.

The camera inherits a magnesium alloy body from the previous model, almost the same arrangement of controls. But the usual switch of the exposure metering mode is gone, it turned into a button on the left of the top panel with a corresponding symbol, and now this mode is changed by holding the button and rotating the wheel. Instead of this switch, an AF / exposure lock button appeared. Slightly unusual, but not critical. Also, to the right of the rear screen, there is an “i” button, pressing which turns on the rear screen and immediately makes it possible to change various shooting modes, banks of settings, the operation of the electronic horizon, etc. It is also possible to attach a battery handle, external flash or GPS module. There is a built-in flash. On the front panel is a port for a wired shutter release.

In this cell, as in D800 There are two slots for memory cards, CF и SD. The sequence of slot use and options for recording file types on memory cards can be customized. Why Nikon equipped the camera with slots for different types of cards is a mystery.

The camera is equipped with a 36,3 megapixel full-frame CMOS matrix 7360x4912 pixels, without an anti-aliasing filter, with a sensitivity of 64-12800 and an expansion up to 32-51200, and promises a higher detail, up to the appearance of moiré on periodic structures in the frame. I did not take measurements, I also did not see moire, but subjectively the detail is higher than D800, Little. But multi-pixelity brings us not very desirable phenomena. What the camera with fewer pixels forgave D700for example, or even D750, this camera is unforgiving. When shooting with it, it is very important to try to avoid micro-smearing, that is, do not forget about the correct and strong grip and try to take the shortest exposure possible.

Autofocus. Fifteen central points are cross. Subjectively, it works more confidently than in D700 and definitely better than in D800... A new function in the autofocus system - Group focus, which is recommended for shooting portraits, to be honest, I did not understand it, I probably still need some time.

Another "nuisance" that awaits us due to the multi-pixel is back focus, which appears when the aperture is closed. As with the previous model, this is treated via the “AF fine-tune” menu and makes it possible to store focus compensation for twenty different lenses. From my own experience for perfectionists - you need to start by checking the operation of autofocus at a fully open aperture with zero compensation parameters on a pre-printed scale or banal in the newspaper. The camera must be mounted on a tripod. And then check by taking pictures of the eyes. I can add that I ran into back focus on an open aperture at D800, and being familiar with the local service (lazy people!), he himself, at his own peril and risk, adjusted the carcass on a film fifty dollars on a fully open diaphragm with three adjusting eccentrics under the bottom cover of the carcass using a 1/16 inch socket wrench, controlling along the central and all angular points. Painstaking work, but worth the time.

A very nice feature of this matrix, as in D800 Is the dynamic range and stretch of shadows. Subjectively, tonal transitions are very similar to film transitions. They say that the taste and color of markers are different, but I like the skin color from these cameras in any light. There is no need to talk about landscapes, everything is cool there.

One more possibility has been added to the exposure metering system - spot metering with an asterisk. This mode is for very bright, white subjects against a dark background without overexposure. But the rest of the metering modes work at a high level. I rarely have to make any correction in post-processing.

Using lenses. The camera works with all F-mount lenses. Also with Barlow lenses for telescope connection. True, focusing is martyrically manual with the help of the telescope focuser visually from the image in the viewfinder and the focus point or on live-view. The camera is able to select the shutter speed or the sensitivity of the matrix when working with lenses without a microcontroller or with a telescope.

Viewfinder. Pentaprism. Light, with light lenses. With the dark it will be dark. One hundred percent coverage. What can I say, it was updated, made colored. Everything except the flash symbol became highlighted in white. The flash symbol is orange. As before, there is a framing grid that can be turned off, and there are two horizon scales. The horizon in the viewfinder is called up with a short press on the function button and helps a lot to align the camera, so, at least for me, the percentage of shots with a blocked horizon has decreased. There is a shutter on the viewfinder window, as expected. The viewfinder window is unscrewed, the connection is threaded.

The shutter is something extraordinary. There is no familiar slapping-rumbling sound when raising and lowering the mirror, now it is something that resembles a hiss or muffled rustle, so the camera practically does not shake, and, very importantly, does not attract the attention of others with an annoying and sometimes even inappropriate sound. I must point out that D800 being attached to a mirror telescope, after the shutter was triggered, it was shaking, it was clearly visible, so I did not take pictures with the telescope without pre-raising the mirror. High-speed shooting at approximately five frames per second. The buffer is designed for eleven full format RAW files.

Sample photos on Nikon D810

File format RAW, TIFF, JPEG. Video in MOV format. An uncompressed 14-bit RAW file weighs approximately 70-75 megabytes.

Weight. Heavy camera. The carcass with the battery weighs almost a kilogram. This is both a plus and a minus. The heavy weight adds stability when shooting handheld, but fatigues the neck when hiking. With a battery grip and an 80-200mm lens, the weight reaches three kilograms, so the branded beautiful strap should be replaced with a wide one, maybe neoprene. It helps.

Battery. EN-EL 15, as in the D800 and some other camera models, is a lithium battery, the declared number of shots on a single charge is from one thousand two hundred to one and a half thousand. Of course, battery consumption depends on how you use the camera and shooting modes. The battery is a proprietary, proprietary Nikon, that is, a charge and discharge controller and two lithium cans of type 18490 (18500).

Moisture protection. Probably a sore point, and hardly anyone on a healthy head will dip the camera into the water. Nikon positions the camera as water resistant when using the appropriate optics. I myself personally shot on an amateur D90 under a fine drizzling rain, but did not wet it under it intentionally - without consequences. While walking with D700 at sea in stormy weather, a wave swept over me and the camera too, the lens was without a rubber rim. The camera was wiped off, there are no consequences, except that the switch of the camera, previously dripped with juice through negligence (not by me), was safely washed with salted sea water and began to switch confidently, and not like before in syrup. Well, besides, in the rain I had to shoot on D300and on D700... There were never any problems.

Using lenses. Older film lenses work just fine on this camera as well as on the D800. I myself use a line of Nikon's fixes, with the letter D, 80-200mm F / 2.8 D telezoom and there are no problems, I am satisfied with the picture.

There is a built-in flash, customizable.

Video. MOV format, 1920 x 1080 pixels. With sound.

Ports: USB, HDMI, ISO-519 flash sync, headphone and external microphone jacks, XNUMX-pin remote shutter connector.

In addition, the camera has many standard settings as in other Nikon DSLRs, including time-lapse photography. It fits well in my hand, and although my hand is not very large, I prefer to use the battery grip. The camera is “finicky”, so you can't get good pictures right away when you pick it up for the first time, you need to master it. Once again, I want to mention the shake, this must always be taken into account when shooting. Through the USB port, you can connect a smartphone with an OTG adapter for full camera control, I tried the Helicon Remote program for Android. Liked.

Verdict: An excellent professional SLR camera with a modern matrix with a wide dynamic range and wide possibilities.

The review was prepared by Stanislav Sugatov. You will find more reviews from Radozhiva's readers here.

Add a comment: Ivan

 

 

Comments: 99, on the topic: Nikon D810. Review from the reader Radozhiva

  • Ivan

    I don't know why the author of the article had a question about different slots for memory cards. CF is for professional use and SD is for more common use. It's a plus when you have a choice.

    Of course, it is possible to change the strap, but for comfortable carrying of a heavy camera there are different unloadings - over the shoulder, criss-cross on the back ...

    Sea water is extremely aggressive. In no case should she wash any objects at all, and even more so, the camera. Only fresh water! And any electronics can be washed from dust only in distilled water.

    • Alexander

      What does “for professional” mean and what does “for more common” mean?
      If we are talking about speed, then SD cards are not inferior to CF cards now ... Or do the Nutcrackers need fast cards, but just cards for normal photographers?

      • @ Lex

        CF is recognized as more reliable card than SD

        • Alexander

          I am certainly not a professional. I have two Nikon D7000 and D7100 cameras. SD cards are the cheapest for many years and everything is fine with them. Once every five years, for that price, I can buy new cards and just change them. Although, I think that those old cards are safer than I will buy the same ones, just made now. I shoot not so much, but not very little either. When I realize that what I'm shooting is very valuable to me, I turn on parallel recording on two cards. That's all professionalism.

          • Ivan

            You are not talking about that at all. The requirements for professional tools are completely different.

            • Alexander

              I'm talking about reliability. You mean it?

            • Roman

              Basically, using SD is a thing of the past. I, for example, would prefer a pair of duplicate SDs over one CF card. Yes, potentially more cells can be placed in the CF form factor, or these cells will take up less space, which increases their reliability, but the connector itself also has rather fragile legs, unlike flat SD contacts.

              The speed has practically leveled off, the sizes are the same, two cards of smaller volume are more reliable than one - it is better to take several cards with you and change them as you fill them than to carry one large one. If we are not talking about super-professionals who prefer fully protected equipment, then there is no special reason to be proud of CF and prefer it to SD.

              • Ivan

                Alexey answered correctly, I will add to Roman and Alexander about speed. Both of you operate with modern concepts. Do not forget when the camera left this review, when it was designed with that time in mind.

          • Roman

            * use of CF is a relic of the past

            • Alexey

              nonsense. I develop industrial equipment and avionics, and if I need some kind of removable storage medium, then this is only and exclusively CF, as the most reliable device. on temperature, mechanics, protection against failures and other parameters. CF will be released for a very, very long time.

              • Roman

                We are talking exclusively in the context of photography. And so - some of them still fly in the Unions. Promelectronics is generally quite conservative.

              • koba

                Many photographers may not be aware that CF cards are produced. industrial level of security. There is a different memory and they are made in a completely different way, by the way, they are not designed for very high speeds, but they are guaranteed to store data even in difficult conditions. In fact, all more or less important industrial products have just such cards, they are produced by several companies (for example, Smart), including Chinese ones, and most of them are not widely known. These 4GB cards cost about $ 80, while a 64GB card costs about $ 1600 (!). Basically, cards are issued up to 1GB and less.

              • Pokemon

                Koba:
                Yes, for example Transcend 8GB 200x Industrial grade TS8GCF200I from 205 $

              • Roman

                For these many photographers, the total lifetime value of footage will not exceed the cost of a memory card. Then a man went to the beach - already an event. And you are talking about memory cards for satellites or mine workings.

              • APh

                You write nonsense! The fact that you develop does not mean that you are a professional.

              • APh

                Radio tubes are also produced, but this does not mean that they are put everywhere.

            • Alexey

              and yet - the reliability of CF contacts under vibration (and exposure to moisture) is higher than that of SD. durability (the number of docking / undocking cycles is also an order of magnitude higher)

          • Alex

            If you work “professionally”, in harsh conditions, when you need to frequently change lenses, cards, etc., then the more rigid CF or XQD / CFexpress cards are now more reliable due to the more durable body. SDs are less rigid and can simply break physically. The same applies to the weight of the camera. Magnesium cameras are not as scary to use as their amateur counterparts.
            This does not apply to studio shooting or other leisurely camera activities. Do not forget that there is military photography, sports, nature, and so on, where maximum reliability should be.

            • APh

              You will only break the SD card if you are a crooked hand. Or you store flash drives in bulk, and not in a case.

      • Ivan

        Read about CF-format. It's not just about speed.

    • Stas

      When you shoot a lot, for example, when traveling, it is not very convenient to carry different types of cards with you. And the sea did not ask whether to pour me over or not. It happened, but the camera was not damaged at all.

      • Ivan

        Why do you need different types of cards? Do you duplicate pictures on both cards for reliable backup?
        From your text it seemed that you yourself deliberately washed with sea water. Even if it was necessary for some reason, then afterwards it is necessary to rinse with fresh water. This applies to any item that has been in seawater, even scuba diving equipment.

      • Ivan

        The camera was not damaged, but over time, the salt residues will eat away at everything.

      • Ivan

        I had photos of a professional Canon somewhere, which I took apart. He was in an underwater box that was leaking. The boards and all metal elements that got into the sea water were almost completely corroded by rust.

        • Alexey

          This is a photo from an Internet, I don't know the author. but indicative.

        • Ivan

          That is:

        • Ivan

          And so:

    • Alexey

      if you really rinse electronic equipment with water, then not just distilled, but deionized.

      • Ivan

        This is how the Japanese taught us. They talked about distilled.

        • Alexey

          (smiled) and I myself am writing the technology for the workshop. and there they do as I have prescribed. although deionized water is quite expensive. and it is not so easy to handle. more often we wash it in a special liquid in an ultrasonic bath. then the block is dried and sealed in dry nitrogen. and then put on board and flew))

        • Stas

          The Japanese spoke correctly.

  • Olen.

    I didn't get 810 f50 on 1.4. Apertures 1.2; 1.4; 2.0 are not workers in the literal sense of the word. The wildest vignetting, instead of a picture of porridge, there is no sharpness at all. The picture is formed only from f2.8. If possible, describe in detail the adjustment process.

    • Olen.

      Sorry, 50 / f1.2

      • Alexey

        what is 50 1.2 on nikon ??

        • Vyacheslav

          Perhaps this means manual Nikkor 50 / 1,2 (or 55 / 1,2, there were such and such)

          • Alexey

            but with them everything is just fine in terms of the picture. if you can work with them, essno.

            • Stas

              Physical adjustment first, and then only correction.

              • Alexey

                physical alignment WHAT ?? good old optics? she doesn't need it

              • Stas

                Autofocus sensors. Why do you need it? Asked the one who needed it. I share my experience, especially since I did it with different cameras and successfully. And this is thanks to the lazy service. But every second person starts being clever without any practical experience.

      • Stas

        First, you need to check the focus at the widest aperture, with zero autofocus correction in the camera, and do this from a tripod. A tripod is required. Diode lighting is not desirable, natural daylight is better. Search the net and print a table to check focus. At an open aperture, it is difficult to understand where the focus is, so you need to navigate by the contrast of the resulting image. Also, you need to do this with multiple lenses, if any. Everyone should be about the same on an open aperture. This is for a start. If this goes well, I will explain the procedure further. Before this check, you do not need to climb into the chamber.

    • Stas

      First, you need to check the focus at the widest aperture, with zero autofocus correction in the camera, and do this from a tripod. A tripod is required. Diode lighting is not desirable, natural daylight is better. Search the net and print a table to check focus. At an open aperture, it is difficult to understand where the focus is, so you need to navigate by the contrast of the resulting image. Also, you need to do this with multiple lenses, if any. Everyone should be about the same on an open aperture. This is for a start. If this goes well, I will explain the procedure further. Before this check, you do not need to climb into the chamber.

      • Alexey

        why is this all? there is also a service software. everything adjusts without problems. for each AF point separately.

        • Stas

          Physical alignment first.

          • Alexey

            this is done at the stand. and not so.
            and after such craftsmen, the people in the ASC have to reinstall everything for a long time and tediously.
            moreover, in 99% of cases this is not required. unless the AF unit was replaced or the camera was hit very hard.

            • Stas

              Do you work in the service? I adjusted mine once, no more need. And I'm not alone.

              • Alexey

                I repeat - there is no need for mechanical adjustment of the AF unit position. everything can be configured much more accurately programmatically. and, I repeat - at all points. and also separately for the vertical and horizontal CCD rulers at each point.

              • Stas

                Help a man named Olen.

          • Andrei

            Hello, please describe in detail the adjustment process, ignoring the paranoid. There are people who are interested in this, but there is no such thing on the internet, only for d90. The review is great, thanks.

  • Alexey

    Gentlemen with naughty hands! Spin what you want and where you want, thereby you only increase the number of clients in the ACC. Yes, and I, too, often bring this. You have to build a stand, return everything to its original state and then programmatically adjust. All service software, special equipment and service documentation are available, therefore I look so skeptically at the attempts of craftsmen to twist what is not intended for it))

    • Stas

      You speak so well and predict the future ... Please continue. We will not interfere.

      • APh

        Keep writing useless comments. We will not interfere.

  • Vera

    Whatever one may say, I nurture confidence in the selections only from your resource. You have selected elite masters of their craft.

    • Ivan

      There are many photo resources. Arkady did a great job, he systematized the scattered information, described in detail and established feedback with his readers, who form a solid and expanding circle.

    • JJ Tesla

      I strongly agree with you.

  • notapic

    Some kind of chaotic review, without systematic decomposition on the shelves. The video is mentioned 2 times, but for these 2 times the frame rate and bit rate are not written, in principle, the suitability of the camera for video recording is not described. About working ISO and ergonomics, too, not a word (okay, little is written about ergonomics at the end), and these are very important details in the camera review. Also not mentioned is incompatibility with non-Ai lenses, despite the fact that they are also from film cameras.

    • Onotole

      Of course, nothing is compatible with non-AI, you cannot use such lenses on the D810 without first converting them (read filing).

  • Girl with a paddle

    If someone shared their experience and told how to use banks of settings on the D810, it would be very good. On D7200 buttons U1 and U2 returned presets, even if they corrected something for a specific shooting. And here, if something has changed, then there is no return to the originally set settings? Help me figure it out, please

    • Eugene

      I don't know how on Nikon, but on Canon there is an item to save changes or not.

      • JJ Tesla

        Yes, also, after the changes, you need to go to the menu with the key and select save the settings. They will be written to the currently selected bank.

  • Alexey

    to Koba
    if we talk about flash memory in principle, then it should be mentioned that in relation to NAND microcircuits, there are two fundamentally different technologies - SLC and MLC. if in the first one in one cell is stored one bit (there is a charge / there is no charge), then in the second one can store more than one bit, that is, in fact, this is already analog storage of information, according to the level of charge. and it becomes clear that the storage reliability in the SLC memory is much higher than in the MLC, but at the same time we get a proportionally smaller volume, which leads to the need to increase the number of microcircuits in the assembly, which increases the size, consumption and price, but increases reliability many times over.

  • Dim

    Thank you very much for the review, very atmospheric - you read it and it is as if you were walking with this camera yourself. *** There are amazing comments like: no, you can't like it, because I don't eat it :-) The man did us all a favor: he gave a wonderful, well-tailored impression. No thank you to say and share your impression, if it really hurts

  • Valery

    The phase focusing module used in the Nikon D810 is well known to us from previous models. This is the same Multi-CAM 3500FX, working with 51 points, which cover a fairly large area of ​​the frame. But the autofocus algorithms have also been improved. Automatic focusing by a group of points was implemented. We first saw this feature in the flagship Nikon D4S some time ago. This uses five adjacent points to avoid accidental focusing on the background rather than on the main subject. Focusing priority will be given to the closest object or face to the camera, if it is recognized by the automation. The Nikon D810 metering module allows you to recognize the shooting scene, including people's faces when shooting using the optical viewfinder.

  • Onotole

    "The camera works with any F-mount lenses." -
    This is, to put it mildly, not true.

  • Victor

    Quite a subjective review, which clearly required, among other things, error checking before submitting. Yes, and the cat cried photos)) And, the feeling is, they were made on from ... smiling (as if snapped on an iPhone on vacation).

    I understand that the author tried his best, but nevertheless, the initial reviews from Shapoval taught me good things.

    • JJ Tesla

      Thanks for that too. The management approved, so you can trust.

  • Victoria

    Hello! Thank you very much for your blog! This is the most informative resource! Every day I discover something new for myself!

    There was a question about this and I will be very grateful for the advice)

    The situation is this:

    Camera Nikon D810
    Lenses
    50 mm Ф1.8
    24-70 F2.8
    80-200 F2.8

    On zooms, the blur is not particularly noticeable, and the fix is ​​very noticeable. I made diagnostics of all lenses along the line, there was a noticeable back focus on all, about the same. I made fine-tuning AF (- 20). The situation has improved a little, but judging by the sharpness on the ruler scale, it would be possible to make a correction by another -5 -10, back focus still goes a little (

    Can this be fixed and what should be done in this case? Camera alignment (software or mechanical)? Will this procedure help?

    • B. R. P.

      I think you need to contact the service with a camera and lenses. It is unlikely that they will help in absentia.

    • Sergei

      dealt with the problem?

  • Maria

    Tell me, is it suitable for this camera - Nikon 50mm f / 1.8S Nikkor Z lens?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      no, it won't fit. Look at 50/1.8G

  • Bohdan

    Hello, tell me. Does it make sense to overpay, d850? I plan to use it for portraits, landscapes. From optics there are AF-S Nikkor 14-24mm f / 2,8G, Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G

    • Bohdan

      * Meaning, used market

    • B. R. P.

      Doesn't have. For portraits, overpay better for a good portrait lens.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        yes, 810 for the eyes with a good lens it will be great

  • All3201

    Hello everyone, I can’t understand. Is it wind dust or from the outside?
    https://ibb.co/bQK2596

    • Viktre

      Most likely from the outside. Oh, it seems not, inside. Although wait…. Maybe still from the outside? ... But by the way, it looks a little like inside.

      Flip a coin, in general, it will be more reliable.

  • All3201

    Just in case, I’ll produce it. So far, only the bots have responded. Hello everyone, I can’t understand. Is it dust inside or from the outside?
    https://ibb.co/bQK2596
    Thank you

  • andrud

    Inside, not outside

  • Bohdan

    Good day. Tell me the best landscape lens for d810, d850? Up to $ 500, used if possible

  • Bohdan

    https://radojuva.com/2015/12/tokina-at-x-pro-sd-16-28-f-2-8-if-fx/ Is this one suitable for landscapes on d810, d850?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes it will fit

      • Bohdan

        Arkady, what else can you recommend besides Tokina AT-X 16-28mm f / 2,8 Pro FX. I looked at the photo, it catches a lot of glare (Perhaps there is an analogue, nikkor 14-24 f2.8? Or from 15 but with f2.8 .Please tell me

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Any that fall within the budget https://radojuva.com/2009/11/super-wide-nikon-with-af-lenses/
          16-35mm 1:4G and 14-24mm 1:2.8G from relatives are just right. Each has nuances.

          • Bohdan

            Thank you. Give me more advice on bokeh, like here https://ibb.co/XsB4qhH
            But on the d810, with what lens is this, bokeh maybe?
            It seems to be on Helios-81, similar bokeh

            • Arkady Shapoval

              Ask Oleg and do not forget to find out if the prices for Buryat weddings have risen

              • Bohdan

                Ahahah, thanks. But still I wanted to know from you. I want boke nuts

              • Bohdan

                I looked, in your reviews, it seems to be Helios 103, it gives such a bokeh as the one from the video. I found it under the m39, what do you say it will be the same bokeh?

            • Rodion

              Any old 50/1.4 practically. SMC Takumar 50/1.4 for example.

              • Bohdan

                Thank you!

  • Bohdan

    Please help me find the front cover for this lens https://radojuva.com/2015/12/tokina-at-x-pro-sd-16-28-f-2-8-if-fx/
    I looked at alik, something was missing.
    MB knows who is where, you can find it in Ukraine, thanks in advance.

  • Bohdan

    MB, who knows. D850 / 810 are there any f0.95 lenses? Or are they current on the BZ?

    • Dmitry Kostin

      At the BZK.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      no, under zk Nikon only 1.2

  • Igor

    Tell me plz, carcasses 810, 850 have an autofocus engine? That is

    • Igor

      That is, is it possible to use lenses for a screwdriver?
      I want to switch from d7000 to 800 series and leave old lenses

      • Dmitry Kostin

        Yes, there is a “screwdriver” for 810 and 850. As well as on the D780 and older D5 / D6.

        • Igor

          Thank you very much

      • B. R. P.

        It’s interesting how it turns out, the amateur 7000 has a screwdriver, but the pro 810 and 850 may not have it))) You can use lenses, preferably on ff)))

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