answers: 100

  1. Rodion
    05.06.2020

    Kitty is just a miracle: 3

    Reply

    • B. R. P.
      05.06.2020

      The cat is beautiful. Yes, and Millvus is nothing.

      Reply

  2. Vladimir
    05.06.2020

    So they told about my camera))
    Yes, it’s very terrible when in Live View it’s not possible to change the aperture ...

    Reply

  3. Dim
    05.06.2020

    In my opinion, the most significant drawback of this line is the use of flash: no flash control, 1/200, no high-speed sync. I have several cameras in use, when switching from D200,300 or 700 to amateur I catch myself on some kind of stupor or wonder what - I can’t understand for some time why the technique itself does not do what it should :-) Even after freezing, it becomes funny.

    Reply

    • Alexey
      05.06.2020

      this applies to the junior cameras of all systems. I’m renting it on the senior kenons myself, and when I pick up someone’s junior apparatus, I wonder where it is, or how to turn it on and why it doesn’t shy as I desired? but it's more fun than sad.

      Reply

      • Anatoly
        05.06.2020

        As an amateur, I went through all the stages of 3100-5100-7100, now 500. Now, having picked up 5100, I don’t understand how much was enough for me ...)))

        Reply

      • BB
        06.06.2020

        The first transition (3100-> 5100), IMHO, is not logical, except because of the rotary display :-)
        I looked at the D500, I didn’t dare to buy it, because the control there is noticeably different from the D7100 / 7200/750, and I have at least two cameras in use, and they are almost identical in control. The price is also not in last place, especially if photography is not the main craft.

        Reply

      • Johnny
        07.06.2020

        Anatoly, you're just a marketer's dream.

        Reply

      • Anatoly
        08.06.2020

        So I do not earn a photograph, I just spend on it. And he came to the 500-ke as that particular camera. which suits me better for my tasks. I love, you know to shoot the report, people. situations ...

        Reply

      • Michael K.
        09.06.2020

        I don’t even know? I’m probably not advanced? I sold the D7100, now I’m shooting on the D80-D40-D50.

        Reply

      • Valery A.
        09.06.2020

        How could you not just move the sliders to achieve the desired color, they say this is a couple of trifles (I myself can’t either).

        Reply

  4. witness
    05.06.2020

    Who knows?
    Can I buy a red Nikon D5500?

    Reply

    • B. R. P.
      05.06.2020

      It is possible, but the lens should also be red. Or, at least with a red ring.

      Reply

  5. B. R. P.
    05.06.2020

    And what about Nikon’s official representative office in Ukraine?

    Reply

    • Michael
      05.06.2020

      Apparently they will separately sell, like blends

      Reply

  6. Photo Cat
    05.06.2020

    Was such, sold and I do not regret. I did not like the camera.

    Reply

  7. Alexey
    06.06.2020

    ADL (Active Day Lighting)
    Active D-lighting, not Day)

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      06.06.2020

      Fixed

      Reply

  8. Vladimir
    06.06.2020

    Interestingly, and instead of the D7500 there will be something more advanced and mirror? And then soon it will be 4 years, as 7500 will be ... .. Or are they going to rivet it for another ten years?

    Reply

    • anonym
      06.06.2020

      With the mirror it's all over. They will not develop a new camera. So far, only release what is available and soon stop production altogether. And produce only the flagship 850, D6, etc.

      Reply

      • Not a bot
        06.06.2020

        there were stuffing about 7800, recently.

        Reply

    • Pokemon
      06.06.2020

      Partly here is the answer to your question:
      Nikon plans restructuring and cost reduction:
      https://photar.ru/kompaniya-nikon-planiruet-restrukturizaciyu/
      There was also news that they were planning a light version of the Z50 - Z30 with a new bayonet mount.
      It seems to me that Nikon and Canon will inevitably reduce the output of new products for old bayonets and both will leave the mirror.
      There are too many crop cameras on the market from different manufacturers for different mounts.

      Reply

      • Pokemon
        06.06.2020

        Another interesting point is that no one except Fuji or Samsung (who left the camera market) has made a crop camera with BSi.

        Reply

      • copenhagen72
        18.06.2020

        Sony A6x00 series with BSI.

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        18.06.2020

        No.
        A6300-A6400-A6500-A6600 are equipped with matrices without BSi.
        It will help make sure the wiki, Dxomark, and the official site of Sony.

        Reply

  9. Sergei
    06.06.2020

    For almost 2 years now I've been using Nikon D5600, from optics:
    Nikkor 18-140mm 3.5-5.6 VR DX
    Nikkor 50mm 1.8, and whale 18-55.
    In general, I am satisfied with the camera. This is my first SLR.
    The only minus is iso, which above 1000 is already really noticeable noise.
    I often go to the mountains, I like landscapes and evening photos.
    I plan to buy in general it is not cheap for me Sigma art 18-35mm f / 1.8 dc hsm.
    According to the description on the internet, cool and sharp glass, although sometimes there are problems with the focus.
    But still, I am overcome with doubts to improve what is or save for a new one. Or maybe still leave this venture and collect on the FF slowly?. Who will advise what?

    Reply

    • Pokemon
      07.06.2020

      It depends on how often you need to shoot in the dark without a tripod.
      If not often, then you can do with the purchase of lighter lenses and a tripod.
      For example, buy Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 with a stub and Sigma / or Nikon 50 / 1.4, and sell a whale and another fifty dollars. Or, as an option, buy Sigma 18-35 / 1.8 + 50-100 / 1.8 + 50 / 1.4, and sell the rest.
      If you switch to FF (for example, inexpensive d610, d750 (but not used d800), then you will have to sell and buy second-hand lenses with a camera and buy second-hand or new ones for a full frame.
      One must consider and one must think.

      Reply

      • Pokemon
        07.06.2020

        Under crop, good lenses are expensive.
        For example, a used Nikkor 17-55 / 2.8 DX stands like a used Nikkor 28-70 / 2.8 for a full frame.
        You can get the maximum budget, for example, selling everything except fifty dollars and buying used / new d610 / d750 and as a used lens Tamron / Sigmu 24-70 / 2.8 - for the first time is enough.

        Reply

    • Roman
      07.06.2020

      Sigma 18-35 is heavy and stupid. Neither here nor here, but aperture, but without a stub. Like the steam room, she is no less stupid 50-100. 70-200 / 2.8 with a stub is much more convenient, but it is also suitable for a wide frame.

      If it’s mountains, landscapes, architecture, then 10-24 or 12-24 is a more interesting set of focal points for crop, better with a stub, from Tamron or from Tokina. Go down to the ultra wide, you'll like it. Well, 24 on the crop is a very good working distance.

      Reply

      • Pokemon
        07.06.2020

        “70-200 / 2.8 with a stub is much more convenient, but it’s also suitable for a wide frame.”
        A person has priority in the landscape.
        A 50-100 / 1.8 suggested to partially overlap the focal 18-140 whale lens.
        Here the whole question is whether to go to the last and buy really good lenses, albeit under crop or go to ff, if necessary, and still sell lenses under crop and buy decent ones, but under ff.
        And so and so - waste of money, maybe something will have to be sold, and probably not for the money that I was counting on, but alas, cheaper.

        Reply

      • Roman
        07.06.2020

        Well, something like 10-24 (or even 8-16, if you want to be really wide) is much more suitable for landscape than 18-35.

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    • Johnny
      07.06.2020

      Yes. The best strategy is to accumulate funds in ff. Expensive crop lenses are a bad idea. If you still want a good lens, it is better to buy full-frame (for example, sigma 24mm art, instead of 18-35mm; it will be good in crop and ff). I don’t know why the local gentlemen didn’t please the d800, but I have this camera, and it’s great for photos.

      Reply

      • Roman
        07.06.2020

        And I want to shoot right here and now. And while you accumulate on crop and really good lenses do not know - Nikon will take and suddenly end, for example. Or the mirrorless ones will win, whose “good” ones are for crazy money.

        Reply

    • Roman
      07.06.2020

      Go from the task.

      Noises at high ISOs are inevitable, noise canceling to help. Or a tripod that comes out cheaper than any lens. Because in the landscapes you need to hide up to 8 in a good way, and there not a single lens and not a single stub will save, if it is dark overcast. But even in this case, your 18-140 with VR will be more effective than sigma 18-35.

      Further, the landscape is a wide angle. The wide angle on your 18-140 is most likely a barrel. And not wide enough. Therefore, 10-24 with VR will give you the opportunity to shoot even wider, there will be no such distortion and shutter speeds of 10 mm with VR may be in the region of 1/4 - 1/2.

      Just ask yourself the question - what does not suit me and what I would like to fix. And correct it. And do not listen to the tips in style: I have X, take X - I am satisfied.

      Reply

    • Peter
      07.06.2020

      Sergey, buy a d750 and don't steam your brain with a sigma of 18-35. It's not about the noise. All modern cameras allow prof. frames. The main carcass + lens. 18-35 lens with disgusting autofocus. Even if you configure it perfectly, it will still be just the center point, the sides will be smeared. Yes, and the central one will not be ideal, I compare it with a similar ff nikkor 24-70, where I put it on the carcass and shoot it.

      Reply

      • Alexey
        07.06.2020

        Sigma 18-35 on kenon works without problems, I adjusted the focus to my camera and that's it.

        Reply

    • Basil
      07.06.2020

      Sergey, advice is good, but your head is better. About landscapes. A tripod (good and stable) is the most necessary thing. The remote control (so as not to press on the camera) and the mirror pre-lift mode are a must. No stubs. Aperture from 5.6 to 13, depending on the situation, plus wound filters. Therefore, there is no need to chase the aperture. Sharpness and resolution over the entire field of the frame is much more important. Autofocus is not needed for nothing, and if you can’t do without it, you won’t miss this diaphragm. By the way, you named very good lenses as candidates. FF will not give a significant increase, this is universal hysteria. For ff drowning fans of bokeh and wide angle. Bokeh in the landscape is not needed, the angle is Yes, but you can do with gluing panoramas. That's when you yourself firmly feel the need ff, then take it. But, most likely it will cost. Still, shooting landscapes does not imply the high speeds required in reporting, sports, etc. And there is no need to chase autofocus speed, burst shooting, buffer, etc. I’m shooting with a mirrorless camera now and found more advantages than when I was shooting with a mirror ff.

      Reply

      • Sergei
        07.06.2020

        “I’m shooting with a mirrorless mirror now and found more advantages than when I shot with a mirror ff”
        what do you mean ? what are the pluses?

        Reply

      • Basil
        08.06.2020

        Dimensions and weight. It’s hard to carry everything you need for hiking and shooting all day on the mountains. Even if you come to the location by car, there’s still a lot of walking around.
        The second one. The number of different interesting lenses used has risen sharply, including the entire fleet left over from the previous system. The presence of an electronic assistant when working with manual lenses greatly simplifies the process of sharpening and determining the depth of field. The third. A trifle. There is no need to “bypass" the clap of the mirror, which inevitably leads to micro-lubrication and negates all the possibilities of any super lens. Fourth. The notorious back \ front focus. Okay, the scenery is not very smelly, but a “sediment”. Fifth. Before the eyes on the monitor, the final picture is immediately visible, which is more convenient to fix when shooting, the filters and hoods mounted on the lens, overexposure / underexposure are better visible - everything can be seen right before shooting and not later. Sixth. The movement of the mirror during the exposure often generated bunnies that were not visible when cropping. In the UPC, if they are not, then not, if they are needed - here you are. Sometimes “hares” decorate landscapes. A swivel monitor is convenient and sometimes simply indispensable when you need to shoot by lifting the camera on a tripod high above your head or vice versa by lowering it from a cliff. I agree, lifeview can also, but I didn’t have it, and I write about my case. And I got all this without loss in size and resolution.

        Reply

      • Michael
        08.06.2020

        I agree with everything except filters. The action of the polarik is hard to see on EVI

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      • Alexey
        08.06.2020

        when shooting in LV, the work of the polarizer is perfectly visible, moreover, I just expose the desired angle of rotation of the filter.

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      • Alexey
        08.06.2020

        on kenon cameras, shooting on manual glasses in LV (with ML support) is almost as convenient and fast as on the BZK. EVF is not suitable for people with low vision, I tried more than once. In addition, not everyone needs to run around the mountains with the camera, and sometimes there is a desire to shoot with class 80-200 2.8 optics, and doing it on the BZK is very inconvenient, the camera is too small and uncomfortable to hold. even the third Sonya and she with such optics is not very profitable. in addition, sometimes you want to have a really fast and accurate AF, the ones that canon and Nikon provide, which can not be said about the BZK. so BZK is far from a panacea. I would say that they are convenient only in some cases.

        Reply

      • Basil
        08.06.2020

        Alexei, a friend asked specifically “for landscapes”.

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      • Alexey
        08.06.2020

        “The movement of the mirror during the exposure often gave rise to bunnies” DURING the exposure, the mirror is raised and does not move anywhere.

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      • Basil
        08.06.2020

        I'm not talking about a curtain-slit shutter. The lamellar begins to work a little earlier, and by the time it is fully opened, the mirror manages to rise completely. Although, perhaps, hares are caused by reflection from lamellas - I have not yet sat inside. I know for sure that this is not in the BZK.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        08.06.2020

        did not understand anything. in the DSLR, the mirror first rises and only then does the movement of the shutter curtains begin and nothing else. if something is not working right, then the camera is simply malfunctioning.

        Reply

      • Ivan
        08.06.2020

        I’ll add to Alexey’s comment, in the SLR too.

        Reply

      • Nicholas
        08.06.2020

        What good advice to a landscape painter. Just a fairy tale. Landscape is a very controversial genre. Why does this landscape not need aperture and the game due to it with depth? Pezage also seeks to highlight something special, just our perception in this case does not work as hard as when perceiving a portrait.

        Reply

      • Michael
        08.06.2020

        Because the plans, as a rule, are far from each other and separate even with the hole clamped. Isolation occurs mostly through light and color. Aperture is needed very rarely, and it’s very difficult to carry around the mountains of bandura 1.4

        Reply

      • Basil
        08.06.2020

        Nikolay, I would pinch the hole even more, there would be an opportunity.

        Reply

    • VasilVasil
      17.10.2020

      Back in February, I made this comment.
      Even if you drive an Audi A6, you still want something more.
      Upgrade or transition from D7200 to D750, my thoughts and impressions.
      First, let's see this link.
      https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D7200&camera2=Nikon+D750
      in which you can see what is the advantage of the D750 over the D7200 or the FX over the DX, this is twice as much ISO with the same SNR - the signal-to-noise ratio at the output. Otherwise, where it is better, where it is worse with almost equal functionality.
      Looking at this, I came to the conclusion that, you can get the same quality on the crop by compensating for high ISO, in particular, by increasing the aperture by 1,41 (ex. F4-> F2.8) and decreasing the ISO by one step ( ex. 1600-> 800) we get the same noise level as on the D750 (ISO 1600 - you can see the graphs on DXOMARK) at the output and the same exposure. In this case, the thought of replacing the whale zoom lens with a fast zoom or fast prime is obvious.
      There are, of course, other aspects associated with compensation for high ISOs through exposure - these are depth of field, bokeh, sharpness at closed apertures due to diffraction, etc.
      In this case, I focused on “toad” or “sober calculation” in assessing the winnings. Here I have indicated aftermarket prices when buying a new model and selling an old one
      D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D750 + Nikkor 24-120F / 4 + 600 $, weight 1255-> 1550g
      D7200+Nikkor18-140F/3.5-5.6 -> D7200+Sigma17-55F/2.8 +125$ вес 1255->1330гр
      I followed the second path and kept 18-140 for myself, after all, I consider myself to be an advanced amateur and I need a camera to take pictures of family, friends, landscapes and architecture while traveling.
      I will not be offended if this calculation can be attributed to the article choosing a camera and lens. At the same time, if the transition is made to a new technique with a guarantee and the sale of the old costs increases, everyone assesses the expediency independently. You can go further and make an assessment table for such Upgrade-s.
      I still have Audi but I want to drive a Mercedes. :)

      Reply

      • Pokemon
        17.10.2020

        Even buying a crop (it doesn't matter Canon or Nikon) Sigma 18-35 / 1.8 and 50-100 / 1.8 and up to a heap with a staff Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 with a stub, you will not be able to deceive physics. Well, maybe partly due to the first-class lenses.
        What you described is theory. In practice, of course, it is better to have an FF and something from inexpensive, but good lenses.

        Reply

  10. Nicholas
    07.06.2020

    Last year, I still sold it. No matter how I use it, I still could not get a beautiful picture, even changing lenses did not help. Some kind of empty figure from inside. But functionally, on the contrary, it seemed to me nothing.

    Reply

    • Dim
      08.06.2020

      The “empty picture” is probably a new very sharp and corrected lens, the “interesting picture” will most likely not be sharp, with a bunch of artifacts and from the old lens. This is not a camera. Put some Fujian Chinese on it for 30 bucks for the video surveillance system and enjoy, though you have to take pictures in “M” mode.

      Reply

      • Nicholas
        08.06.2020

        I'm talking about the other. I used different lenses, both old and new (there are enough Nikon friends for good) These amateur cameras simply have low-quality matrices (not only on the D5600, but on other cameras of the line, and on the 3000s the same thing) Replacing it with the D610 right away put everything in its place. In general, I was disappointed in the crop, I do not like them, and that's all. And after installing Nikon610f85G on the D1.4, it turned out a completely different movie. And about the picture - why is it so widely believed that a good picture must necessarily be associated with a decrease in sharpness? Good photographic equipment - photographic equipment with a large dynamic range and great opportunities in the field of micro-contrast. Sharpness as such has nothing to do with it, all the more so today it is easily achieved in almost any price category (at least for Nikon) Speaking completely illiterate, for me a good picture is associated with a large matrix and high aperture optics, which is cumbersome and expensive, but worth it. Although I agree with the author of the article, the D5600 is a very good amateur camera, probably one of the best, and it fully justifies its $ 600. True, I didn’t like its small size yet, it’s not at all convenient to hold it in my hand, even though my hand seems to be not big. He has a grip under the girl's hand. And he has no viewfinder, like all croppers, but for me a wide and bright viewfinder is half of all art.

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      • Dim
        09.06.2020

        1. Very sharp pictures, as it were, by themselves, due to their sharpness, are drawn to the consideration of details and approximation. Creature people are curious. Accordingly, during such examination, details invisible in ordinary life are revealed, and the picture is purely psychologically connected with these details. Lens flaws focus on other aspects. Plus, as a rule, an uncorrected field, weak sharpness and contrast add perspectives and focus attention. It's my opinion.
        2. At the expense of the size of carcasses, there is such a thing, after heavy and large cameras, small ones again psychologically, as it seems to me, are not taken seriously, this is also facilitated by truncated functionality and impaired ease of management. IMHO.
        3. When comparing shots, sometimes it also feels like something is wrong with modern multi-pixel cameras with noise or micro-contrast. I think that this is more likely a lack of experience with them.

        Reply

      • Nicholas
        09.06.2020

        You say that the creature’s people are curious, and immediately give out a photographer who works for others. But I’m just an amateur, and I’m not curious. Yes, bullshit all this super-sharpness. I have already said that sharpness is generally not a problem for modern photographic equipment. But everything else becomes more and more problematic, and the further, the worse. You see for yourself how, in meeting the tastes of consumers, manufacturers for this unfortunate "harshness" threw all their strength ... to the detriment of everything else. Go to any picture gallery. Which of the major artists drew attention to the "sharpness"? Perhaps one Dali ... And as for increasing the so-called detail in the editor, this is generally a gobbled perversion. How can more appear on the picture than is already on it? And most importantly - why emphasize this inconspicuous, and even in such a brutal way? Personally, as a lover of good photography, I never had such a desire. So I said that I did not like the D5600 picture. He and his whale (18-55 P) give extreme “sharpness”, but I don’t need this for nothing ...

        Reply

      • US6IBD
        09.06.2020

        I am for sharpness, but ...!
        Usually, when shooting portraits in FS, I sharpen my eyes. There are such filters as “smart” sharpness, contour sharpness. Well, I love when every eyelash is drawn and the skin texture is visible ...
        Somehow I tried to apply these filters to the landscape. The result is disgusting. Lost the volume of the picture.
        Everything should be in moderation. Both undersalt and overcooking are unacceptable.
        Now I don’t even clamp the aperture for the landscape to more than 4 ... 5,6, otherwise the depth is lost.

        Reply

      • Roman
        09.06.2020

        Try another option.

        1. On the new Filter layer - Other - High Pass (Filter, Other, Color Contrast) - and there select the blur radius. Although this is not the blur radius, but the maximum size of the high-frequency component, the smallest image detail that you want to enlarge. From 0.5 pixels somewhere to three, depending on the picture.

        2. Apply the resulting layer in Overlay mode (Overlap, in my opinion) and, if necessary, correct the opacity of the layer. Again, if necessary, layers can be applied to certain areas “with sharpness” several times, showing them in a mask.

        Such a sharpe has a much better result, without stupid halos and flaws of the usual contour sharpness.

        Reply

      • Michael
        09.06.2020

        With SS, the Smart Shaerpen filter works quite neatly. High Pass was good on older versions. + it is better to use it separately for shadows and lights - then, indeed, you can achieve the absence of visible ghosting

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      • Roman
        09.06.2020

        Well, this method essentially does this.

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      • US6IBD
        09.06.2020

        Thank. I will try. I'm not a big specialist in FS, but I wanted to emphasize that in landscape photography, excessive sharpness is useless.

        Reply

    • Roman
      08.06.2020

      They would try to compensate for the plot.

      Reply

  11. Vladislav
    08.06.2020

    Nikon's D3xxx line of cameras is designed for beginner photographers, they present users with a slightly smaller range of options compared to the D5xxx series, but they have a lot in common with this class of cameras. What sets the new D3500 apart from the cameras previously introduced by the company in this segment? Let's compare the new product with the D5600 and D3400.

    Reply

  12. Vlad
    09.06.2020

    I use the d5600 for about a year, in the presence of 18-55 afp, 70-300 afp and sigma 30 / 1.4 art. I photograph mainly for myself, portraits, travels + a little animated photo. In general, I am satisfied with the camera, it is lightweight, compact, perfectly covers most of my needs. But lately there has been a strong desire to switch to canon, and here's why: firstly, disgusting work in lv. A terrible shutter lag, slamming a mirror, the inability to change the aperture. Contrast AF dopili, but only with afp lenses. With the rest - horror-horror. Why rotary screen, if lv in fact is not working?
    The second - the presence in the canon system of excellent 50 / 1.8, 70-200 / 4 is much cheaper than Nikon (2 times). Many other glasses (85 / 1.8, 24-105 / 4, etc.) are also noticeably cheaper. Trouble-free operation with non-native lenses due to af in lv.

    Reply

    • Nicholas
      09.06.2020

      I really liked this rotary screen at first) Yes, and the focus is where you stuck a finger - beauty. True, after a couple of months, for some reason, I completely lost all interest in this newfangled fun. Through the viewfinder, especially if it is close to 100% (which is not the case with the D5600), it is only possible to really feel the picture before it was taken.

      Reply

    • Nicholas
      09.06.2020

      By the way, at the D750 it also turns, only pretty stupidly, up and down. I preferred the D610 to him, which is worse in almost all respects ... except for one - the D610 has a MUCH better picture. The manufacturer specifically plays with the consumer this way - here’s the best camera for you, but ... horseradish drawing. Here is a good drawing for you, but ... shitty everything else. And you want both at once - buy D4, D5, D6, but ... do not forget to collect a bag of money on it)))

      Reply

      • Michael
        09.06.2020

        Um ... Does the D610 have a much better pattern than the D750? Are you seriously?

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      • Michael
        09.06.2020

        Apparently, a friend in JPEG takes and picture = camera profile

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        09.06.2020

        It is enough to use a regular developer of raw.
        And yes ... the color profiles of the D750, the work of the exposure meter and generally the color vision of this camera is very peculiar.
        He experimented with different color profiles, poured amateur ones in the same.
        Compared with D4 and with D3s.
        Used full-time Capture NX-D.
        As a result, he didn’t want to get used to it and sold partly because of this, and partly because the camera itself has structural disadvantages from birth.
        Arkady, in his color preferences mentioned d810, d850, d4, d5.

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        09.06.2020

        Filmed only in nef. It is interesting that the built-in presets for incandescent lamps (and especially LED ones) in the d750 are inferior to those in the d4 / d3s. In older cameras, color reproduction is more precisely configured. Moreover, revising old photos, I can say that visually, the color rendition of d3s is a bit nicer than in d4.

        Reply

      • Michael
        09.06.2020

        There is a moment and peculiar color profiles and RAV are crooked. It is necessary to suffer - the picture will not work right away) But this is mainly for those who do not process the photo. Using third-party developers, you can relay profiles from other cameras

        Reply

      • Nicholas
        09.06.2020

        D750 in the image is similar to an iPhone. Of course I do not have access to all Nikon variety, but there is the Internet, with endless examples of photos. Personally, I like the picture of their professional line, and the D810 and D610. The 810th is a little expensive for me, not to mention the “bricks”, and the second-hand ones ... it’s boring to take them. That left only the D610.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        09.06.2020

        Is Buddha forbidding to buy D3s? :)

        Reply

      • Michael
        09.06.2020

        Buddha and RAV in Photoshop forbids twisting

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        09.06.2020

        I already heard something like that. Moreover, in Radozhiv and other resources.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        09.06.2020

        mon-sher is a typical victim of a marketer)) in the same way, many people believe that the 6D Kenon is less noisy than the 5D MkIII, and all because the shehhe is more aggressive and noiseless in principle - the marketers wanted to give the consumer a beautiful picture right away :)

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        09.06.2020

        By the way, yes, I also caught myself thinking that the Japanese I follow most visually like (by color) photos from (descending): 1Dx mk2 / 1Dx, 5D mk4, 6D, 5Ds / 5DsR.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        09.06.2020

        ahem) and how do you like 1DsMkII or III - is it really not to your liking?

        Reply

      • Pokemon
        09.06.2020

        Those Japanese on flickr, to whom I subscribed, do not have these cameras.
        They themselves are strange people - they love everything new and the most modern and can change still obsolete cameras even when this makes little sense. For example, replacing d610- > d750- > z6, 6D- > 6D mk2, 5D mk4- > Eos R, 5D mk2- > 2 different cameras m4 / 3-> A7m2.
        Of the old cameras, only film ones are found.

        Reply

      • Alexey
        09.06.2020

        Onet, you see, have already comprehended Zen ... We are not given this, alas :)

        Reply

      • Ivan
        09.06.2020

        They are not strange, they have a different income level (Japan has the highest salaries in the world).

        Reply

      • Alexey
        09.06.2020

        and returning to Father Nikon, you can recall the beautiful D3s, the price of which will not ruin anyone. and for a very modest budget, there are D2Xs, with excellent color and sharpness immediately in JPEG. (yes, crop, so what?)

        Reply

    • Michael
      09.06.2020

      If there is a desire to go into the television range, then Canon is better (cheaper) without question. Fifty dollars from him, however, are not very successful. I like Nikon G more

      Reply

    • Michael
      09.06.2020

      Vlad, I would recommend not to rush this summer)
      Coronavirus restricts travel and shooting, especially you can’t walk around.
      This summer, according to rumors, Nikon Z5 (a competitor to Canon RP) should come out, Sony is up to something, maybe the camera in this segment will also be announced, the Canon RF 85mm f / 2 Macro IS STM is also expected for this year.
      I’m in a similar situation, I want to assemble a light kit Crop + f1.4 lenses or FF + f1.8 lenses, while in standby mode.

      Reply

      • Vlad
        10.06.2020

        It is important for me that the system has a high-quality standard fast aperture (the same sigma) and an inexpensive 70-200 (an ideal tool for animated photos and a universal portrait), as well as normal work in lv. Well, and some other whale as a travel zoom, quality is already less important here. Based on this, the Canon system looks the most attractive

        Reply

      • Alexey
        10.06.2020

        Sigma is not an art series has problems with focus, and the art series is expensive, 70-200 4.0 is dark glass, you can only shoot in good light.

        Reply

      • Vlad
        10.06.2020

        Art series is still cheaper than native glass, especially since there is lv. And Canon has a relatively inexpensive 70-200 / 2.8, which is without a stub. For animals, only short exposures, no stab. Used can be found for $ 500. And 70-200 / 4 in general for $ 250

        Reply

      • Alexey
        10.06.2020

        Well, if so, then the magic drain pipe is better, it is both cheaper and more reliable.

        Reply

      • Vlad
        11.06.2020

        I had not even heard of him before. And why is it better than the first usm version? It seems like it costs the same, it's much harder to find

        Reply

      • Alexey
        11.06.2020

        I’ll answer not quite there, for the branch is being cut. “Magic drainpipe” is a legend. Nikon has the same. old, reliable as a tank, heavy, and even black outwardly - norot is not so afraid and thieves do not look - they are used to white glasses. but seriously, it is noticeably cheaper than any modern glass with the same parameters, but more reliably. AF is slow and noisy, it is. but it won’t break like USM. weather protection is better than newer ones. I know people who have two such pipes - “just in case”

        Reply

      • Vlad
        11.06.2020

        Interesting. Offhand found only 2-3 ads, the same - / + 500 $. And how slow is AF - will it be possible to catch animals in tracking mode?

        Reply

  13. fiat124
    12.06.2020

    Dear photographers, I recently bought a Nikon D5600 with a whale lens 18-140mm, this is my first SLR, I decided to learn the world of photography with this model.
    I have a question for you, is it possible to buy full-frame lenses for the D5600, with an eye to the future, in order to move on to the “full frame” in the future?
    I wonder how such lenses behave on the D5600.
    Will quality deteriorate dramatically compared to DX lenses?
    Like several lenses:
    For portrait photography - Tamron SP 85mm F1.8 Di VC USD
    Macro - Sigma AF 105mm f / 2.8 Macro EX DG OS HSM
    For landscape

    Interested in landscape, macro, growth, facial, waist-length portraits.

    Thank you in advance)

    Reply

    • Ivan
      12.06.2020

      FX lenses behave the same as DX. Quality, by definition, cannot be degraded.

      Reply

    • Trueash
      12.06.2020

      The lens does not know what is behind it.

      Reply

      • Vlad
        12.06.2020

        The lens does not know, but some FF lenses are designed for the pixel density of the FF matrix, which is much lower than that of crop. That is, on crop these lenses are likely to be less sharp. But this applies mainly to old or budget models. On the other hand, FF lenses cover a larger frame size, so there will be no vignettes and soap corners / edges on the crop. After all, only a sharp center works

        Reply

    • Roman
      12.06.2020

      In most cases, everything from 50 mm and specialized makes sense to take full-frame. Especially with your 18-140. At the long end, it can be in a pair of 100-400 from Tamron or Sigma.

      The landscape needs a wide, and full-frame wides are very expensive and still not wide enough. Native 14-24, for example, and especially 17-35 will give a better picture, but not much wider angle. Therefore, the width on the crop is only for crop. 10-24, 10-20, 8-16 will close your ultra-wide range from and to.

      Of your choice. The 85 and 105, although very different lenses, are very close in focus (and equally inconvenient). For full-fledged portraits, you will need either a huge studio or a street and go somewhere far away, especially for a full-length one.

      Sigma 105 / 2.8 can cope with the functions of portrait shooting, it is quite fast, it has a stub. The second lens is advisable to take something much wider. For example, the same tamron 45 / 1.8 with a stub. At full frame it will be a good staffer, at Crop - a moderate portrait TV. This is if there are a lot of lenses, you can take different options - this is small for travel, and this is fast, and when you just start shooting - play enough with a whale and think about what you are missing. Aperture ratio on the available range, long end or wide.

      Reply

      • fiat124
        12.06.2020

        Thanks a lot, everyone)

        Reply

  14. Tatyana
    11.07.2020

    Hello. Can you tell a spare battery (in addition to the native) to the nikon d5600? Thank.

    Reply

  15. Vlad
    19.09.2020

    D5600 in double-kit is equipped with afp 70-300 without vr. And it's very sad, it's not very fun to shoot on 450 mm without a stub

    Reply

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