Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX Review

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Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Browse Navigation

  1. In short
  2. History
  3. Main Specifications
  4. Assembly
  5. Focusing
  6. Image quality
  7. Sample photos with source
  8. My experience
  9. Alternatives (all over-widths for APS-C)
  10. Prices
  11. Results
  12. User Comments
  13. Add your review / comment or question on the lens

In this review, I will call the Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX lens abbreviated Sigma 10-20 / 3.5. Please also note that this lens is available for different cameras with different mounts. In the review, I have an option for the Nikon F mount for Nikon DX SLR cameras. At the same time, this lens is for Sigma SA, Canon EFS, Sony A / Minolta A and Pentax K.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

In short

The Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is a popular and highly successful ultra wide-angle lens for cropped DSLR cameras of various systems. It is a good balanced solution and belongs to the professional Sigma EX series lenses. At one time it became a replacement for the same popular, but older and 'dark' Sigma 10-20mm 1: 4-5.6 EX DC HSM.

First of all, Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 attracts 10 mm of focal length, constant maximum apertureUltrasonic focusing motor and good assembly. But optically, there are minor problems, and 82 mm filters are not to everyone’s liking (or can’t afford).

In general, it is a replacement for the professional original Nikon 12-24 / 4G and for amateur original Nikon 10-24 / 3.5-4.5G и Nikon 10-20 / 4.5-5.6G VR.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

History

Sigma DC super-wide line-up (for cropped SLR cameras, in order of appearance):

  1. Sigma 10-20 mm 1: 4-5.6 EX DC [+ -HSM, + -D]was announced February 14 2005 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. December 6 2005 Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A released. February 1 2008 a version for the 4/3 mirror system was released. The 'D' prefix is ​​only available on early production Nikon and Sony / Minolta A variants. The HSM motor is only available for Canon EFS, Sigma SA, Nikon F and 4/3. The Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A versions have no focusing distance window; a distance scale is printed on the focusing ring. Scheme 14/10, 3 ASP, 3 SLD
  2. Sigma 4.5 mm 1:2.8 EX DC HSM CIRCULAR FISHEYEwas announced November 14, 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. 23 September 2008 Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A released. Scheme 13/9, 1 SLD
  3. Sigma 10 mm 1:2.8 EX DC HSM Fisheyewas announced November 14, 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. 23 September 2008 Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A released. Scheme 12/7, without special optical elements
  4. Sigma 10-20 mm 1:3.5 EX DC HSMwas announced March 3 2009, for Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony / Minolta A. Scheme 13/10, 4 ASP, 2 ELD, 1 SLD. Velvet or glossy case
  5. Sigma 8-16 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 DC HSMwas announced February 21 2010, Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony / Minolta A. Scheme 15/11, 3 ASP, 4 FLD

It should be noted that Sigma makes one of the most interesting super-widths for mirrored cropped systems.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Main technical characteristics of Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX:

Review Instance Name The lens barrel bears the following inscriptions 'Sigma EX 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM Ø 82 LENS MADE IN JAPAN' + serial number
Basic properties
  • DC (Digital Camera) - the lens is designed for SLR cameras with an APS-C sensor, in this case it is an analogue 'Nikon DX'
  • EX (EXcellent) - the highest quality professional lens
  • HSM (Hyper Sonic Motor) - ultrasonic focusing motor, in this case it is analogous to 'Nikon SWM'.
  • AF / M - simple focus mode switch
  • IF (Iinternal Focusing) - internal focus
  • Super Multi-Layer Coating - super multicoated optics
  • ASP (Aspenherical) - aspherical elements in the optical scheme
  • ELD (Extraordinary Low Dispersion) - special low-dispersion elements in the optical scheme
  • SLD (Special Low Dispersion) - special low dispersion elements in the optical scheme
  • Lack of aperture control ring, analog 'Nikon G'
  • Bayonet hood included
  • Important: a lens from a third-party manufacturer, which imposes some restrictions on its practical use
Front Filter Diameter 82 mm
Focal length 10-20 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 15-30 mm
Zoom ratio 2 x
Designed by for Nikon DX digital cameras, there are modifications for other systems:

  • Sigma sa
  • Canon EF / EFS (the lens mount of the lens itself is EF)
  • Sony A / Minolta A
  • Pentax K (specifically - KAF3)
Number of aperture blades 7 rounded petals
Labels a window with a focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 10, 12, 14, 17, 20 mm, a mark of bayonet mount and mount / fix hood. Labels IN / OUT to set the hood.
Diaphragm F / 3.5 to F / 22 over the entire range of focal lengths

control is via the camera menu (analog Nikon G - lens type)

MDF 0.24 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 6.6
The weight 520 grams declared

According to my measurements:

  • 521 grams of the lens itself
  • 575 gram lens with a hood and two caps
Optical design 13 elements in 10 groups:

  • 4 aspherical ASP elements (in the optical diagram, aspherical elements are shown in pink)
  • 1 low dispersion ELD element (shown in blue in the optical diagram)
  • 2 low-dispersion SLD elements (shown in green in the optical diagram)

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EXThe image of the optical scheme is clickable to enlarge

Lens hood LH873-01, Bayonet type, plastic, with the possibility of installation in transport mode
Manufacturer country LENS MADE IN JAPAN (Lens made in Japan)
Production period Since March 3, 2009, in February 2010 augmented by a lens Sigma 8-16mm 1: 4.5-5.6 DC HSM
Price

F / 3.5 is only a third step lighter than F / 4 in many other similar lenses, for example, Tokina 12-24 / 4. At the same time, F / 3.5 is 2/3 steps darker than that of F / 2.8 on models Tokina 11-16 / 2.8, Tokina 11-20 / 2.8, PENTAX 11-18 / 2.8, FUJINON 8-16 / 2.8. The lightest of these can be considered Tokina 14-20 / 2.0. At the same time, it is important to realize that very often super-wide angles are used on very closed diaphragms, which is why the maximum relative aperture is not always as important as for standard or telephoto lenses.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Assembly

Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 was made in Japan. To the touch the lens is pleasant and weighty. The lens has a considerable weight, which is a little more 500 grams. On small cameras such as Nikon D3200, the weight balance is slightly biased towards the lens but it does not cause any discomfort in operation. Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 uses large / huge filters xnumx diameter mm. But the installation of filters with a thick rim does not affect the vignetting.

There is a bayonet mount mark on the body and a mark for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses a plastic hood that is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. On the hood there are arrows labeled 'IN' and 'OUT', in the direction of which the hood should be installed and removed. The hood can be installed in upside down for transportation. When you change the focal length, the lens hood moves with the front of the lens.

When changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens barrel. The effect of the air pump is not expressed at all.

The retractable body frame ('trunk') consists of 1 section. The trunk is durable, without any backlash. When the focal length is changed, the trunk moves in a wave-like manner. The maximum extended trunk is observed at 10 mm focal length, minimum - at 15 mm. The movement of the trunk does not exceed 0.5 cm and is almost invisible, we can assume that the lens has almost an internal zoom. True, I still managed to place my index finger between the lens sections and press it a little when changing the focal length from 10 to 20 mm.

In Sigma 10-20 / 3.5, the direction of rotation of the focus ring do not match with direction from the original Nikon 12-24 / 4Gand the direction of rotation of the zoom ring is the same.

The lens has metal bayonet mount. Most of the internal power elements of the lens are also made of metal. The zoom and focus rings are rubberized. Changing the focal length runs smoothly. The zoom ring rotates 45 degrees. The assembly of the Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is exactly the same as most EX lenses of that time.

The assembly of Sigma lenses is so unified that the plate on which the focus mode switch is located has a dummy for another switch, usually it is a stabilizer mode switch, for example, like Sigma 17-70 / 2.8-4 OS. The plate is fastened with two screws and its design is typical for almost all Sigma lenses of that time.

Number of petals aperture - 7 pieces. At the same time, they are slightly rounded and form a regular heptagon on strongly covered diaphragms. Aperture blades form a completely flat aperture only 20 mm focal length. During a change in focal length in the direction of 10 mm, it is visually noticeable how the aperture blades slightly close and form a hole with small notches already.

Important: At first, this lens was produced in a case with a velvet sigma coating, but later replaced with a classic glossy one, as in this review.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Focusing

To focus, the lens uses a special ultrasonic focusing motor 'HSM' (Hyper Sonic Motor) ring type... This is an analogue of Nikon SWM / Canon USM / Pentax SDM / Sony DDSSM motors. In this case, the Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is similar to an 'AF-S' type lens in Nikon terms.

The lens will automatically focus on all Nikon DSLR cameraseven on amateur series models Nikon DXthat do not have a built-in focus motor: D40, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D3400, D3500, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500, D5600as well as mirrorless cameras Nikon Z with adapter FTZ / FTZ II.

During automatic focusing, the motor performs its work quite quietly, but nevertheless, noise from the focusing motor is clearly audible on videos recorded using the microphone built into the camera. In Live View, with frequent and quick changes in focus direction to accurately fine-tune the focus, the lens creates a distinctive strong crack.

Auto Focus Speed high. It is believed that the focus speed is not important for the super-wide, and the presence of automatic focusing as such. But still fast and tenacious autofocus greatly simplifies the life of the photographer.

When used on a camera Nikon D3200 with unpretentious Multi-CAM 1000 focusing system the lens behaves very well. With precision and clinging focus, I had no particular problems at all. The same goes for use on Nikon D40. On camera Nikon D3200 I checked the presence of the back and focus front at different focusing distances (infinity and MDF as well). Pictures taken using the Live View mode (which does not suffer from back / front focus) were used as a measure. Focusing accuracy using phase sensors completely coincided with the Live View mode. In Live View, the lens also works well.

The focus ring is rubberized and in manual focus mode rotates approximately 135 degrees. When extreme positions are reached, the ring does not abut, but continues to rotate freely. The focus ring rotates quite tight. Manual focus is quite convenient. Direction of rotation of the focus ring does not match with original Nikon 12-24 / 4G. In automatic focus mode, the focus ring does not rotate and you can hold the lens behind it.

Lens has internal focus, the front and rear lenses remain stationary during focusing. When changing the focal length, the front lens also does not rotate. It is possible to use various filters without any problems.

The lens has a window with a focus distance scale in meters and feet. The number of values ​​on the scale is small, the scale itself is not very useful. There are values ​​only for 0.24, 0.27, 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 1 meter and an infinity mark. Infrared scales and labels for working in the infrared spectrum are not.

The minimum focusing distance is 24 cm and the maximum magnification ratio is 1: 6.6.

There is a lens housing focus mode switch 'AF | M '(auto focus / manual focus). Lens supports continuous manual focus control (Full-Time Manual Focus). This function only resembles native functions. Nikon 'M / A' or Nikon 'A / M'. The mode is more similar to the analog from Canon - Canon FTM, or to the 'A' mode for some Nikon DX lenses, for which it is described in detail here. In short, it is convenient to perform manual focus in the auto focus mode 'AF' (switch position on the lens) is possible only if the camera uses the focus mode 'AF-S'and only after successful automatic focusing. In focus mode 'AF-C'' camera can counteract manual focus control. Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 does not turn off auto focus when you start to rotate the focus ring manually, due to which different incidents can occur. Original Nikon lenses with function 'M / A' immediately turn off the auto focus completely and only listen to the manual control of the focus ring. But if you use the focus method with the button AF ON (or the button programmed for this function, or the remote control), you may not feel the lack of a full mode Nikon 'M / A' or Nikon 'A / M'. This is a pretty subtle little thing that can be quickly understood only in practice.

Focus Features:

  1. Important: the quality of the Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 focus in Live View greatly depends on the camera used, as well as on the system used for the lens
  2. Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 has mild 'Focus Breathing' effect (changing the viewing angle during focusing).
  3. Focus Shift (focus shift, changing focus distance due to iris)
  4. Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 does not have a hard stop (hard infinity mechanical stop) which allows you to accurately and quickly focus the lens at infinity under any external temperature conditions. For accurate aiming at infinity, you cannot just bring the focus ring to its extreme position. The focus ring can have a large overrun for infinity.
  5. The lens transmits the distance to the subject in the camera and is Nikon D-lens equivalent.
  6. Important: Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is a third-party lens. It may happen that it will not work correctly with some cameras. Details on this issue are considered by me. here
  7. Teleconverter compatibility unknown
  8. Unknown compatibility with Nikon FTZ adapter for Nikon Z mirrorless cameras and with Nikon FT1 adapter for mirrorless cameras Nikon 1
Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Image quality

The lens was designed at a time when the camera with the highest pixel density was Canon EOS 50D 15 MP (summer 2008), but even nowadays Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 easily digests cameras with APS-C 24 MP sensors.

Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is optically balanced. With an over-wide angle, one must take into account that almost all lenses in the corners and edges of the image do not give the best image quality, and therefore at this point you should always make a discount. After the very first frames on Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 you can’t get enough of how good this lens is in the center of the frame.

Sharpness

  • the lens was surprising, good resolution in the center of the frame over the entire focal length range. When closing the aperture in the center of the frame, the sharpness is just excellent
  • A serious problem is the angles at 10 mm of the focal length, which do not return to normal even with strong aperture. Only with an increase in focal length can an acceptable sharpness be achieved in the corners of the covered diaphragms. But getting really good sharpness in the corners is impossible.
  • Update: it is believed that the old version Sigma 10-20mm 1: 4-5.6 EX DC HSM in the corners of the frame 10 mm was better than the version from the review
  • as the focal length increases, the edges of the image improve in terms of sharpness

Distortion

  • overall distortion is slightly better than many other similar lenses
  • rather strong distortion is visible only by 10 mm
  • distortion is practically absent in the region of 15 mm focal length
  • in the range of 10-15 mm the nature of the distortion is barrel-shaped, in the range of 15-20 pincushion
  • the nature of distortion is unified, easily corrected in the editor

Vignetting

  • the overall level of vignetting is at a level typical for such lenses
  • vignetting is most pronounced at 10 mm at F / 3.5
  • with increasing focal length, vignetting at an open aperture decreases
  • vignetting almost disappears at f / 5.6
  • vignetting is practically independent of the focusing distance
  • vignetting is easily fixable in the editor

Aberration

  • the strongest chromatic aberration visible at 10 mm and F / 3.5 at the edges and corners of the image
  • chromatic aberration decrease with increasing focal length
  • at average focal lengths, aperture closing does not help reduce chromatic aberrationbut rather even enhances them
  • general level HA is at the level typical for such lenses

Other

  • lens tolerates side and backlight very wellcatching the lens by surprise with a bright light source is quite difficult
  • diaphragm blades form a spinning heptagon on almost any hidden value
  • with closed apertures, you can get a pronounced effect of a 14-ray star

The data on this lens is in most popular RAW converters (it is definitely in ACR, Lightroom), which makes it very easy to correct distortion and vignetting with one click.

But in modern cameras, this lens is not 'sewn up' and it will be impossible to obtain automatic correction of some optical defects of the lens. For example, on camera Nikon D3200 with installed Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 function 'Aut. distortion control 'inactive.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Nikon D3200 Sample Photos (APS-C 24 MP)

Examples are shown without treatment... Easily convert original RAW files with the original Nikon Capture NX-D v 1.4.6 utility.

  • Picture Control mode: SD (Standard with default settings, 3, 0, 0, 0, 0)
  • White balance: Auto (with default offset)
  • Active D-lighting: ON (the camera does not allow you to select a level ADL)
  • Noise Reduction: OFF
  • use of the function 'Aut. distortion control 'with this lens on the camera Nikon D3200 not available, but Capture NX-D automatically removes some chromatic aberration
  • The lens was used without filters, with the original lens hood in the active position.

Original RAW photos (12-bit '.NEF') can be download from this link (26 files, 500 MB).

Examples on Canon EOS 40D, 200D, Andrey Olontsev

Examples of photographs on a Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 lens in a version for Canon EOS cameras with an EF / EFS mount and a camera Canon EOS 40D (10 MP, APS-C) and Canon EOS 200D (24 MP, APS-C) photographer shared Andrey Olontsev (vk). You can find many more works by Andrey in his profile at 35photo.


Examples on Canon EOS 60D, Nikolay Andreev

Examples of photographs on a Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 lens in a version for Canon EOS cameras with an EF / EFS mount and a camera Canon EOS 60D (18 MP, APS-C) shared by a photographer Andreyev Nikolay (instagram). You can find many more works of Nicholas in his profile at 35photo.


Examples on Canon EOS 600D, Svetoslav Georgiev

Examples of photographs on a Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 lens in a version for Canon EOS cameras with an EF / EFS mount and a camera Canon EOS 600D (18 MP, APS-C) shared by a photographer Svetoslav Georgiev (facebook). You can find many more of his works in profile on 35photo.


Examples on Sony A77, A77 II, Alexey Bogoryanov

Examples of photos on a Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 lens in the version for Sony cameras with a Minolta A / Sony A mount and cameras Sony A77 (24 MP, APS-C) and Sony A77II (24 MP, APS-C) shared by a photographer Bogoryanov Alexey (instagram). You can find many more of his works in profile on 35photo.


My experience

Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is a good lens, with it you can be sure of quality and reliability. Personally, I really liked it, even more than the pretty options Tokina 11-16 / 2.8, Tokina 11-20 / 2.8.

There is nothing more complicated than selecting a width / oversize. Typically, the selection of such lenses is approached more carefully than with any other lenses.

From Tokina there are faster options, from Tamron there are options with a higher zoom ratio and with a stabilizer. The original options are sometimes too expensive. And every photographer has their own preferences. In one case, the task is in the maximum possible viewing angle, in the other case, in the maximum possible aperture ratio. Sometimes super-wide is generally taken as a wide-wagon (for example, for this it is well suited Tokina 12-28 / 4).

If you don’t walk in circles, then Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is really one of the most optimal over-widths for crop. Truth,

  • under Canon EFS there is an original bestseller with stepper motor and image stabilizer Canon 10-18 / 4.5-5.6 EF-S IS STM, with a very good price / quality / opportunity ratio. When choosing a lens for Canon EFS, I would look at him
  • Nikon DX also has an original bestseller with a stepper motor and image stabilizer Nikon 10-20 / 4.5-5.6G VR AF-P, with a very good price / quality / opportunity ratio. When choosing a similar lens for Nikon DX, I would look at him
  • for other systems for which Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is produced (Sigma SA, Sony A / Minolta A and Pentax K) there is no simple and balanced choice, you need to choose in torment between many original and non-original options from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, Samyang
Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Alternatives

Below is a list of all ultra-wide angle lenses with auto focus support for cameras with an APS-C sensor (crop Kf = 1.5-1.6X) whose focal length is less than or equal to 14 mm.

Tokina (for different mounts):

With moderate aperture:

  1. Tokina 124 AT-X PRO SD 12-24 mm F4 (IF) DX Aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  2. promaster Digital af 12-24 XR EDO F4 Aspherical, previous lens under the 'ProMaster' brand
  3. Tokina 124 AT-X PRO SD 12-24 mm F4 (IF) DX II aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  4. Tokina 128 AT-X Pro SD 12-28 mm F4 (IF) DX Aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  5. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 12-28 F4 (IF) DX V, for Canon EFS only

Aperture:

  1. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A
  2. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX II ASPHERICAL, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A
  3. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX V, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  4. Tokina atx-i 11-16 mm F2.8CF, from 2019, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  5. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  6. Tokina atx-i 11-20 mm F2.8CF, from 2020, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  7. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 14-20 mm F2 (IF) DX, for Nikon F, Canon EFS

Fisheye:

  1. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 mm F3.5-4.5DX AT-X, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  2. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 mm F3.5-4.5 DX NH AT-X, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  3. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X V NH, for Canon EFS only

Tamron (for different mounts):

  1. Tamron SP 10-24 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 Di II B001, from October 2008, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony A. Japan / China / Vietnam
  2. Tamron 10-24 mm F / 3.5-4.5 Di ii VC HLD B023, from February 2017, for Nikon F and Canon EFS
  3. Tamron Aspherical LD ​​DI II SP AF 11-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 [IF] A13, from 2005, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A. Konica Minolta AF DT Zoom 11-18mm 1: 4.5 (22) -5.6 D and Sony 4.5-5.6 / 11-18 DT (SAL1118)
  4. Promaster Digital EDO AF Aspherical LD ​​(IF) 11-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6, previous lens under the 'ProMaster' brand
  5. Tamron 11-20 mm F / 2.8 Di III-A RXD B060, from April 2021, only for Sony E

Sigma (for different mounts):

  1. Sigma 4.5 mm 1: 2.8 EX DC HSM CIRCULAR FISHEYE, since 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. Since 2008 for Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A
  2. Sigma 10 mm 1: 2.8 DC FISHEYE HSM, from 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. In 2008 a version for Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A was released
  3. Sigma 8-16 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 DC HSM, since 2010, Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony / Minolta A
  4. Sigma 10-20 mm 1: 4-5.6 DC EX [+ -HSM, + -D], since 2005 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA, Nikon F, Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A. Since 2008 for 4/3 SLR system. 'D' prefix for select Nikon and Sony / Minolta A only. HSM motor only available for Canon EFS, Sigma SA, Nikon F and 4/3. The Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A versions have a different appearance (there is no focusing distance window). There are two sub-versions: with a matte finish and with a velvet finish on the body.
  5. Sigma 10-20 mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX, since 2009, for Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony / Minolta A

Nikon DX (for Nikon F mount):

  1. Nikon DX AF Fisheye Nikkor 10.5 mm 1: 2.8G ED
  2. Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 10-20 mm 1: 4.5-5.6G
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 10-24 mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED SWM IF Aspherical
  4. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 12-24 mm 1: 4G ED SWM IF Aspherical

Canon EF-S / EF-M

EF-S (Mirror APS-C)

  1. Canon Zoome Lens EF-S 10-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 IS STM
  2. Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 10-22 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 USM

EF-M (Mirrorless APS-C)

  1. Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 11-22 mm 1: 4-5.6 IS STM

Pentax DA (+ Samsung / Schneider-Kreuznach, for Pentax K mount):

  1. SMC Pentax-DA 1: 2.8 (22) 14 mm ED [IF] (Pentax 14)
  2. SMC Pentax-DA FISH-EYE 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm ED [IF] (Pentax 10-17) (FISHEYE, most likely optically identical Tokina Model 107)
  3. HD Pentax-DA FISH-EYE 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm (FISHEYE, most likely optically similar to Tokina 107NH)
  4. HD PENTAX-DA * 1: 2.8 11-18 mm ED DC AW
  5. SMC Pentax-DA 1: 4 12-24 mm ED AL [IF] (Pentax 12-24) (most likely optically identical Tokina Model 124)
  6. Samsung Zoom Lens Fisheye D-Xenon 10-17 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AL, copy Pentax 10-17optical scheme from Tokina Model 107
  7. Samsung Zoom Lens D-Xenon 1: 4 12-24 mm ED ALcopy Pentax 12-24optical scheme from Tokina Model 124
  8. Schneider-Kreuznach D-Xenogon 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm ED AL, copy Pentax 10-17optical scheme from Tokina Model 107
  9. Schneider-Kreuznach D-Xenon 1: 4 12-24 mm ED AL, copy Pentax 12-24optical scheme from Tokina Model 124

Sony / Minolta (A or E):

E-mount (E):

  1. Sony E 4 /10-18 U.S.S

Amount:

  1. Sony 4.5-5.6 /11-18 DT (SAL1118) (most likely optically identical Tamron model a13)
  2. Konica Minolta AF DT Zoom 11-18 mm 1: 4.5 (22) -5.6 D (most likely optically identical Tamron model a13)

Samsung NX

  1. Samsung Lens 1: 3.5 10 mm Fisheye
  2. Samsung Lens 1: 4-5.6 12-24 mm ED i-Function

Fujifilm x

  1. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 14 mm 1: 2.8 R
  2. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS Nano-GI XF 8-16 mm 1: 2.8 R LM WR
  3. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 10-24 mm 1: 4 R OIS
  4. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 10-24 mm 1: 4 R OIS WR

Zeiss (E / X)

  1. ZEISS Distagon Touit 2.8 /12 T* (Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount)

VILTROX (E / X)

  1. Viltrox AF 13mm 1: 1.4 STM ASPH ED IF C (Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount)

Leica CL / TL / T / TL

  1. Leica SUPER-VARIO-ELMAR-T 1: 3.5-4.5 /11-23 ASPH.
  2. Leica SUPER-VARIO-ELMAR-TL 1: 3.5-4.5 /11-23 ASPH.

Samyang (E / X)

  1. Samyang AF 12/2 E + Samyang AF 12/2 X (Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount)

Do you know more similar lenses? Or do you have experience with any of them? Then be sure to share your thoughts in the comments.

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

Prices

Lens prices can be viewed at E-Katalog on this link, or in the price block.

Results

The Sigma 10-20 / 3.5 is a very successful lens. Perhaps it has minor flaws, but in general it is a good, balanced solution for anyone looking for an ultra-wide lens for cropped SLR cameras.

10 main advantages

  1. constant maximum relative aperture over the entire range of focal lengths
  2. built-in HSM focusing motor (critical for owners of low-end Nikon DX cameras)
  3. fast focusing, internal type focusing
  4. almost internal zoom (the lens practically does not change its size when changing the focal length)
  5. Sigma EX Series Professional Lens
  6. good build quality: metal bayonet mount, rubberized focus and zoom rings, bayonet type hood with the ability to install the reverse side
  7. many special optical elements in the optical scheme (3 ASP, 2 SLD, 1 ELD)
  8. the ability to use 10 mm of focal length (for example, Tokina, Pentax, Sony A do not have similar lenses with 10 mm)
  9. the presence of a lens profile in most popular RAW converters (certainly there is in ACR, Lightroom)
  10. good and sometimes excellent optical performance (moderate distortion и vignetting, very good sharpness on both open and covered apertures in the center of the frame, good glare)

10 main disadvantages

  1. tight focus ring, the direction of rotation of the focus ring does not coincide with the original similar lenses, for example, Nikon 10-24 / 3.5-4.5G
  2. low zoom ratio (e.g. Tamron 10-24 / 3.5-4.5 zoom ratio is higher)
  3. a crackling sound with frequent and fast changes in the direction of auto focus (observed, for example, in tracking mode in Live View)
  4. lack of an integrated image stabilizer (for example, it has Nikon 10-20 / 4.5-5.6G VR)
  5. continuous manual focus control does not work as convenient as the original mode Nikon 'M / A' у Nikon 12-24 / 4G
  6. not the highest aperture (e.g. Tokina 11-20 / 2.8 aperture higher)
  7. 82 mm large filter diameter (e.g. Canon 11-22 / 4-5.6 diameter only 55 mm)
  8. all weather protection is absent, not even rubber lens mount seal (e.g. lens PENTAX 11-18 / 2.8 AW has a very high level of protection)
  9. there may be incompatibility with some cameras and / or teleconverters (no exact data), lack of data about the lens in modern cameras, which makes it difficult to automatically correct some types of distortion (distortion, vignetting etc.)
  10. palpable barrel distortion of 10 mm focal length, very poor resolution of 10 mm in the corners of the frame on open and covered apertures

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. For the selection of a variety of photographic equipment, I recommend E-Catalog и AliExpress.

Specifically for the lens from the review many thanks the store ProFotoSalewhere you can find many new and used lenses for different systems, including similar lenses for slr cameras.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | VK | Instagram | Twitter.

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Comments: 72, on the topic: Review Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX

  • Vladimir

    The operation of this glass on the FF is interesting. It is clear that with limitations, but my Tokina 12-24 without problems covers a full frame from 19 to 24 mm.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      This sigma in the range of 14-20 is also no problem, there is a vignette for 13 mm, but not critical. In the range of 10-13, dark corners are no longer treated.

      • Vladimir

        Wow! This is the highest indicator among similar lenses.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Well, + - similar to Tokina. Tokina 11-16 may be better than 12-24

        • Radik

          Covering then covers, but at the head and edges of the image will be even more soapy than on crop. I myself tried this lens on the FF, it is better to buy Tamron 17-35 2.8-4, here it is much sharper and does not yellow like this Sigma.

          • Marina

            And on the FF D800, which wide-angle not expensive advise so as not to lather around the edges? I don’t want to take chrome. Thank you

            • Sergei

              On the d800e I shot this sigma 10-20 for a while. Plus - in compactness, acceptable sharpness in the center and the ability to use a filter (UV at least). 10mm rough circle with black edges. At 15mm - normal. The difference in picture quality from 14-24 2.8 nikon is very noticeable at the edges of the frame.

    • Sergei

      At full frame, at 15mm, roughly covers the full frame. Up to 15 - the image in the black circle, as with the fish 8 mm. you can probably bore a hole if you like. Curiously, with a 4/3 speed booster it gives a wider angle than Nikon 14-24. Because Nikon has about 21 mm, while sigma has 15 mm in 35 mm format. In the absence of a full-frame lens, it is quite possible to use sigma.

    • Dmitriy

      I didn't shoot with a digital camera with this lens, but I did shoot with Nikon F80. You can confidently shoot at 17-20 mm, although the vignette disappears already at 15 mm in the viewfinder (however, one should bear in mind that the frame coverage of the F80 viewfinder is 90%). On digitized negatives, the best option is 20 mm, which is quite normal footage, although the sharpness at the edges is much lower.

  • Arkady

    I had a 10-20 / 4-5,6 sigma lens, I really liked this lens ... I also took a sigma game from the review, and, yes, it did not come from the word at all. the old version is sharper at the edges of the frame and, in general, there was no desire to change it. now in the throes of choosing a fuj ...

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Under fuj or dear native 10-24 or look for manual solutions, such as Laowa, Samyang

      • Arkady

        While I look towards Samyang 12 / 2.0. In the interior of the AF to anything.

        • Jury

          Do you need a lens for a DSLR or mirrorless? Samyang 12 / 2.0 - for bzk.

          • Arkady Shapoval

            fuji modern mirrorless only

  • Peter

    One of the best wide angle crop lenses. I used it for about 5 years. With sharpness, the problem is only in extreme angles of 10-12mm focal. Often there is sky, water in the frame or a little crop to create a different aspect ratio of the picture, so this is not a problem. It works perfectly against the sun. I would say that Tokina 11-16 2,8 (a friend has one) and Sigma 10-20 3,5 are the best for crop width. Each one has its own advantage.

    • Jury

      Could you describe in more detail the difference between them? Of course, apart from the obvious things - a higher aperture ratio at 11-16 / 2.8 and a larger focal length range at 10-20 / 3.5.

      • Peter

        In general:
        At a wide angle of 10-12 mm, the token will be sharper, at 5,6 aperture, the sharpness is aligned.
        At 16-20 mm the sigma will be sharper, at 5,6 sharpness is aligned.

        Tokins can hear how the autofocus motor works. Sigma has more expensive filters.
        When I bought sigma was two times cheaper. Sigma is less chromatite.

        In a particular case:
        Work against sigma light is better and when shooting in backlight, the token will not have an advantage in sharpness.

        I would say so -
        Sigma is better for landscapes (10mm and good work against the light).
        For shooting people (2,8 working aperture throughout the field at 11-12mm)

        • Peter

          For shooting people - tokina is better (2,8 working aperture over the entire field by 11-12mm)

        • Jury

          Thanks for the detailed answer. I now have Tokina 11-16 / 2.8 (Nikon, non-motorized version), took it, because it was offered at a very competitive price and in excellent condition. In general, I like the lens, but I consider the possibility of replacing it with something with a similar price and a wider range of focal lengths, for example, 12-24 (Tokina and Nikon), 10-20 (from this review) or 12-28 (Tokina). So I'm interested in the difference between them.

          • Peter

            I believe that you have a great lens and it hardly makes sense to change it.

            • Jury

              Yes, I still do not plan, especially since the instance is good in sharpness. And with other lenses, there may be surprises. For example, previously there was Tokina 12-24 / f4 of the second version, from time to time it lost connection with the camera. Normal throwing)

          • Michael

            At 12-28, the price is not close to the rest. Then it’s possible to swing at 11-20. And the rest of the applicants are worse than 11-16, it makes no sense to change. I agree with the previous comment

            • Jury

              On "Avito" 12-28 / 4 is easy to find at a price of 12 to 18 thousand (just looked). Perhaps this is due to the worst resolution of this lens, which many have noted. Arkady seems to have written that he was not impressed by the 12-28 / 4 detail on the D80 (what can we say about its capabilities on small-pixel carcasses). But 11-20 / 2.8 is clearly more expensive, in this I completely agree.

              • Michael

                Well, yes, I didn’t look) From the secondary, the gap is greater: 11-20 from 20 starts

        • Michael

          With such a blockage center-edge of landscapes to shoot? Well, who that, of course. Although the tokins are all glare, they are still their biggest drawback.

  • Arthur

    Still, the canon 40d has the nicest color

  • Lyalyalya

    I had Sigma 10-20 4-5.6. The corners were washed quite hard and it was terrible. A couple of days with her indulged and sold. Maybe depends on the instance, FIG knows.

    • Michael

      There is a curved field of sharpness. If you focus on the center, the edges will wash, if on the edge - the center. If you tighten the aperture and choose something in between, then everything is OK

  • Molchanov Yuri

    Thanks for the helpful review. And thanks for the photos of Andrei Olontsev, Nikolai Andreev and Svetoslav Georgiev - I looked for a long time, a feast for the eyes.
    I bought a Sigma 8-16 in due time (because of 2 “extra” focal mm) and then I got upset comparing the sharpness of my lens with 10-20 / 3.5
    Although sometimes 8 mm focal length turned out to be the way.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      By the way, they didn't put 'EX' on 8-16

    • Peter

      You are probably out of luck with a particular instance. On opticallimits at 15mp canon very good performance

  • Denis

    Through the FTZ adapter on all Sigma EX series autofocus and stub does not work !!!
    Only the Art and Contemporary series are fully functional on Nikon Z.

    I used this lens for more than a year, for landscape it’s the most. At the corners of the same 10mm is not very good, but with 12 it's already pretty good. However, Tokin 11-16 will be more interesting.

  • Artem

    I noticed another feature of this lens - different geometric distortions when setting the frame vertically or horizontally. I do not know how it is properly called scientifically.
    I would not compare it with Nikkor all the same for Sigma another figure. At one time, all the same, he was dissatisfied with him.

    • Alexey

      It's about the curvature of the image field. All shirikov have it. And it is the same, of course, with the vertical, with the horizontal position of the camera :)

  • Maksim

    I bought this lens, automatic focusing does not work on Nikon D7100, but it works on Nikon D750, firmware last April 2020, I was looking for how to solve the problem - I could not find it. Can anyone tell me how to start autofocus on Nikon D7100?

    • Valery A.

      Sigma 10-20 / 4-5.6 on d600 does not work for me.

    • Ya-alex

      Roll back firmware to an older one. A similar problem was on the Sigma 150-500 with the D600.

    • Maksim

      There was firmware (Nikon d7100) C1.04, rolled back to C1.03, it worked, thanks for the help

    • Sergei

      Hmm. Autofocus works on the d7000. Maybe the camera's firmware is wrong?

  • Alexey

    How to learn how to colorize a photo like in a review?

  • Natalia

    Good afternoon! Thank you, Arkady, for your reviews. I read often. Wanted to ask. My friend has such a Sigma lens for the Canon system. I have the same Nikon 5100. Are there any adapters for this case? Or is it not worth it? Thank you in advance for your response!

    • Arkady Shapoval

      There are no adapters and it’s not worth it.

  • B. R. P.

    Do not read very carefully, apparently. With Canon, lenses on Nikon do not become due to: 1. different working lengths; 2. the inability to control the diaphragm.

  • Ilya

    Good day!
    Tell me, colleagues, is this lens amenable to alignment using the Sigma USB Dock?
    Thanks in advance for those who responded.

    • Alexey

      any adjustments by the user are only intended for the series art.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        but what about SPORT (S), Contemporary (C)?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      no, this version does not have such an opportunity.

  • Ilya

    And immediately one more question)
    Please advise a variable ND filter for this glass, mainly for landscape photography?
    Thank you.

  • Novel

    Hello Arkady, you have an error in the description of the optical circuit
    13 elements in 10 groups:
    3 ASP aspherical elements (in the optical diagram, aspherical elements are shown in pink) (in the diagram, 4 are shown)
    1 low dispersion ELD element (shown in green in the optical diagram) (two in the diagram)
    2 low-dispersion SLD elements (shown in blue in the optical diagram) (shown in the diagram 1).

    And the question is, what do you think in terms of sharpness this Sigma 10-20 / 3,5 or the previous model 10-20 4,5-5,6 is better? The D7200 is why the diaphragm here for me “does not play the piano” still needs to be clamped (I want to change the 14mm samyang to some of the 10-20mm sigma, but which one?) Thanks in advance!

  • Novel

    UPD: More precisely, the scheme is from 10-20 / 3,5 sigma and the description is from 10-20 / 4,5-5,6 sigma.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Fixed

  • Wladimir

    - for many years I have been shooting Sigma 10-20 / 4,0-5,6, although I have never shot the version described by the respected Author with a constant aperture of 3,5 - I did not take it much Used for $ 120, when it cost 360 for D -90, then filmed it on D600, until I bought Nikor 16-35 / 4,0 VR on FF.

    What can I say about the lens - in terms of sharpness across the entire field, including the corners, there are absolutely no complaints, the only drawback is chromatics and sometimes very strong against the light on trees, which is completely absent on Nikor 16-35 / 4,0, but here the Sigma cloud pulls clearly better than Nikor because of a slightly larger angle and in Nikor I sometimes miss this shnyagi.

    It is also clear that Nikorov's stub, which is not in Sigma, is also a very, very useful thing, because now I often shoot landscapes even at night with my hands and without a tripod, because with a stub, exposure at such wide angles, from my hands, is up to 1/2 second often obtained without lubrication.

    Among other things - Sigma 10-20 I had not only the main landscape lens, but 20mm, which turned on a 30mm crop, is quite enough for shooting a portrait in the interior and the lens perfectly captures architecture ...

    On mature reflection - even today I am quite satisfied with the cropped Sigma and sometimes I even think that it is worth leaving it, and exchanging the expensive Nikor-shirik for something more in-demand for me in my photography practice ...

    • Valery A.

      And autofocus does not work for me on the d600 (10-20 / 4-5.6). Are you not annoyed by stretched objects around the edges?

  • Wladimir

    - well, it stretches objects around the edges only at ultra-wide corners, while many people like it, and even in landscapes it is often invisible ...

    As for the fact that autofocus does not work on the D600, I personally have never met this on my D-600. On my D-600 I constantly use Sigma 10-20 / 4,0-5,6, Sigma 28-70 / 2,8, and Sigma 50-500 / 4,0-6,3 - on all lenses, which is D-90, that on D-600 - autofocus works perfectly and with the use of the back / front focus correction in the camera itself - focusing accuracy without any complaints ...

    P.S. - here is a picture of my wife on Sigma 10-20 / 4,0-5,6, focal length 10mm, that is, the widest angle, because there was very little space in this room, but if the subject is in the center, then stretched objects around the edges do not interfere ...

  • Katerina

    I plan to take this lens for landscapes on d90 now and later move to d610, does it make sense, and will it show itself normally on both models? Or are there more decent options for an approximate or less cost? I am also considering an option in my case, cheaper by $ 90 for the sigma 10-20 f4-5,6 version, or is it better to pay extra for f3,5?

    • Novel

      Native Nikkor with a stub? The best would be Tamron 10-24, IMHO. And on Sigma, even though you can shoot with long shutter speeds, you will always miss a hundred. Especially in landscapes with coverage up to 8. Unless you carry a tripod with you (but obviously not).

    • Michael

      10-20 4-5.6 behaves better. Tokina 11-16 will just be better. You can also watch Tokina 12-24. The rest is so so

  • Eugene

    Arkady, have you used Canon 10-18 stm? I do not know why, but after looking at the examples of photos, for some reason it seems that sigma shoots better, the color is more pleasant.

  • Jackson

    I would like to choose something wide-angle for a crop canon, relatively inexpensive. I really don't know which is better - this sigma 10-20 or canon 10-18 with a stub. Or it is better to look at manual fix optics, for example sigma 10mm / samyang 8mm.
    Will someone tell me?

    • Victor

      Does it bother you that both sigma (10 2.8) and samyang are fishies?

      If you choose between 10-20 and 10-18, the first is generally a more solid construct, the second is the presence of a stub (no matter who says anything, sometimes it is useful). They are optically similar.

      • Jackson

        I know that fishy. The subject of photography is closed rooms, mainly underground and in the dark. That is why I also mentioned the fishai.

        • Victor

          That is, curved lines in rooms do not bother you at all? Well, OK.

        • BB

          Fisheye geometry cannot be fixed, keep in mind. You can't get straight lines by simple methods.

    • Oleg

      examples 10-18 can be found here: https://500px.com/p/qpxc8g3ejw?view=photos... Development from DPP sharpness above 5 is not screwed anywhere

      • Oleg

        See exif there are not all photos at 10-18, but most of it, there is a landscape and architecture

  • Gene

    Will this sigma fit the Canon 1100D? Or will there be some restrictions and conventions of use?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      yes, it will do. Only need a version for Canon EF / EFS

  • Serg57

    No way. This subject successfully works for me on heaving, D200, D600, D850, D3100 and does not work on the D5500 for which it was taken. On my D5500, if you do not completely finish the lens when attaching it to the mount, then you can take several pictures from af. But - hemorrhoids….

  • Vladimir Petrov

    Hello. The nodal point of the old version of the lens is 62mm, and this one, after my experiments on finding NTs, turned out to be 71mm. I had to make two marks on the panoramic head for attaching the lens. Have you ever faced such a question?

    • Vladimir Petrov

      I will answer my own question myself. I continued my experiments on finding the nodal point of the lens. Review Sigma 10-20mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX. First I installed it on the panoramic head 62mm, but it didn't work - parallax. But 71mm is just right. Maybe someone will come in handy.

  • Phylia

    For some reason, this lens (and 17-70 2.8-4) flies over infinity, despite the adjustment of the back focus to 7100. At close distances, after the adjustment, everything is ok, but when focusing at infinity, it is still soapy soap ((( It's a shame. Apparently, it's not destiny for me with sigma)) Constantly through the stream or handles somehow not right 🙈

    Although, perhaps, the radius of curvature of my hands in the af setting is affected here)))

    • Victor

      If the service is nearby, they could help your trouble for a small reward))

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