Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II. Review from the reader Radozhiva

For the provided review Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital many thanks Valery Nazarkin (instagram).

Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

EOS-1Ds Mark II - a professional camera that has become a continuation of a very successful professional environment EOS-1Ds (a review of which is already
available on Radozhiva). 1Ds Mark II was announced back in 2004 at a price of $ 8000 and was released until 2007, after which the model came to replace it 1Ds Mark III.

The main application of 1Ds Mark II: studio, magazine shooting, still photography, in general - any kind of shooting where high resolution and high quality photographs are required.

In front, the camera has retained the familiar, classic appearance of its predecessor, almost without any changes. In front is the button for repeating the diaphragm, the lamp of the timer indicator and the button for removing the lens. The elements are located, in my opinion, it’s very convenient, when using the Camera you don’t have to intercept it, which is extremely important in professional filming, where sometimes it costs a lot of money.

From the back, the Camera has nothing superfluous, everything is quite thoughtful and, compared with its predecessor, the changes in the controls are minor. Ergonomic Camera is very conveniently perceived in the rue - lies "Do it right."

I will not dwell on appearance and management for a long time, there is a lot of information about this on the Internet and I can only say that after a short time for getting used to it, management becomes familiar and perceived quite logically and routinely.

Key Features

The camera has a dust-moisture-protective housing, which allows you to use 1Ds Mark II in difficult weather conditions, for example, in hiking and expeditions. The camera is convenient for shooting in both orientations due to the built-in battery handle, although this negatively affected the weight of the camera, which is 1.5 g.

The camera works without problems with any lenses created for the Canon EF mount, with the exception of the very old third-party optics created for the Canon EOS film cameras.

1Ds Mark II has a full-frame sensor: 36 X 24 mm CMOS, with low-pass filter and effective resolution 16.7 megapixels. Given the above parameters, the camera has a "fat" pixel size: 7.2 μm, which has a very positive effect on the final result and reduces the optical requirements. The output image from the Camera is very pleasant, colorful and contrast, despite not the highest dynamic range, and only 12-bit RAW file format.

The autofocus camera system has 45-point fosuserov (7 trust), in good lighting the autofocus operation does not cause any frustration with any lenses tested by me. Viewfinder with 100% frame coverage and high-quality pentaprism. The desire to check for sharpness after taking a shot disappears - autofocus works fine, even if non-focal autofocus points are used.

1Ds Mark II has slots for 2-card memory formats: CompactFlash Type I / II (supports Microdrive) and Secure Digital, including SDHC.

Serial shooting 4 frames per secondwhich is quite enough for most tasks, even some sports can be successfully removed. The camera buffer accommodates 11 RAW shots at ISO 100 and 10 shots at any other ISO value. When shooting in JPEG, everything is not unique; below are the resolution, ISO, and the number of pictures that are buffered:

Buffer Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

Buffer Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

This table will be useful when shooting a dynamic report, which does not require subsequent deep processing of images or urgent delivery of material is required (parameters are shown with noise reduction turned off and quality '10' for all resolutions of the JPEG format).

ISO in Camera is available from 100 to 1600 units, it is also possible to expand to the values ​​L - ISO 50 and H - ISO 3200, I would like to note that Canon came in honestly in this camera - there are no "Marketing" ISOs in the camera. Even the value of ISO 3200 can be successfully used with some caveats for some tasks.

Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital

Camera features, personal experience

There is a lot of information on the Internet on this Camera, but there is some information, including from personal experience, which you most likely will not find anywhere and it will definitely be useful to users of this Camera, or those who wish to acquire it.

It became interesting for me to check the “Maximum” memory size of the “1Ds Mark II”. And so, the camera uses the FAT32 file system (at that time EXFAT was not yet used in the cameras and, in my opinion, the standard was not even adopted / was in development). First, I took CF cards and all the available volumes, including 128 GB, which the camera formatted and used perfectly, even when using the CF - SDXC adapter, which allows you to use SD cards in the CF card slot. All memory sizes worked fine. But when I installed a 256 GB memory card into the Camera, 1Ds Mark II saw the size of the card, but when I tried to format it, it gave an error and the possibility of using such a card disappeared. And then I was struck by the idea that this whole situation looks strange, after which I tried to format the memory card 6 on the computer in FAT32 format. By the way, I use the MAC OS X 10.15 Catalina operating system, I used the standard disk utility for formatting. And lo and behold! The camera worked perfectly with this memory card without any problems. I was very surprised when it turned out that the same rule applies to the SD card slot, with the only difference being that the threshold value for the capacity of a 32 GB memory card, that is, a memory card larger than 32 GB, will work. Even the modern Sandisk Etreem Pro 256 GB memory card has worked wonderfully, on which more than 10.000 frames are placed in the RAW format, I can’t say the exact value that the frame count in the camera is limited to 9.999.

Cameras uses a small screen - only 2 inches and with a low resolution, but it displays color quite adequately. It is made using TN technology. 1Ds Mark II accurately determines white balance, exposure, and other automatic parameters, as set by the professional camera.

I can’t but praise the autonomy of the Camera, my copy came to me in a set with three full-time batteries, one of which was original and is living out its life, it is possible to shoot about 300-500 frames on it, depending on the camera settings and shooting mode. The other 2 accumulators turned out to be very good, one of them was ordered new from China, the DSTE company, a few months ago and can quite easily capture 4000-5000 shots at full charge. The third battery is original, but survived the update using the batteries eneloop, which allows you to capture about 3000-4000 frames per charge. I have never come from a renter with a fully discharged battery, even in the cold season.

There is a setting in the CF.n Camera settings that allows you to activate additional autofocus points with auxiliary functions during focusing, but ĸ for a long time I couldn’t find at least some explanation of the principle and working conditions of these settings. It was possible to find out, with the activated function of auxiliary points, when using optics with a focal distance of up to 200 mm, 1-2 auxiliary nearby AF points can be activated, in the case when, according to the algorithm, this is required. When using optics from 200 mm to 300 mm, an algorithm for up to 7 auxiliary points is connected. With 300 mm and more - for removal, up to 11 auxiliary points can be connected at a time. All the described settings function when the corresponding parameters are set and operate in the ONE SHOT mode.

Another interesting point about autofocus: previously I had a very long experience using cameras Canon 6D and 5D Mark III, in the number of several instances, and for all of these cameras, some of my lenses “smeared” and required a fine tuning of autofocus. With the transition to 1Ds Mark II, all available lenses hit exactly on target and do not require adjustment, which is not provided for in the Camera. It’s hard to say why Canon 6D and 5D Mark III such problems, if someone has information on this, then you can share them in the comments.

During the operation of the Camera, I had small malfunctions, requiring analysis of the Camera and eliminating the problems that arose. I managed to find out interesting features. For example, I found out that the beginning of the camera models 1Ds Mark II, 1D Mark II and 1D Mark IIn is very similar and many components are identical. Considering the age of Cameras, the electronic device occupies a significant place inside their case and because it was not possible to fit all the necessary components on one board, the motherboard was divided into nodes in the form of several boards connected in series. The same rule also applies to shutter control and shutter control units. During the repair process, it was possible to find out that when replacing these motherboards from one camera to another, the camera is converted to that model, the kit from which is installed. Thus, the 1Ds Mark II camera can be turned into a 1D Mark II, and vice versa, by replacing the board kit. The components that control the shutter and mirror, the shutter and the shutter itself, as well as the power board of the Camera, are no different from each other. The same rule applies to the top panel and the rear panel with a display and buttons, the only difference is that with the 1D Mark IIn camera, the rear skin is different and most likely will not be able to fully work on other models. Another feature of the 1Ds Mark II is that to replace the shutter, you will need to disassemble the practical whole camera, but you will not need to remove the matrix itself. To replace the matrix, minimal analysis of the cameras is required, which allows, if necessary, the adjustment of the matrix, it does not take a lot of time to parse and collect. I did this procedure - the adjustment is done with the help of washers. In general, the design, taking into account the time of the camera’s release, looks quite logical and understandable, but still there are questions on the power board — the main power lines are implemented as a pair of wires. The locations of the components are very close to each other, which, when closed, can damage a number of important components of the Camera, which will make it impossible to operate or make it difficult to diagnose. Fortunately, Canon is working on its shortcomings and in cameras of more recent models, all power connections are based on plastic connectors with good insulation. When collecting the cameras, I well soldered all the connections and made additional isolation of the unit for all cases. In general, the fact that many Components are compatible between Cameras greatly facilitates their repair. Finding spare parts is getting harder and harder, but cheap Cameras with floors for variable and periodically appear in the secondary market.

Separately, I would like to touch the shutter, its service life and its repair. After reading what the experienced masters write, it was possible to find out that the shutter, mechanics turned out to be very successful and reliable, and in 99% of cases the shutters fail, which are designed for 200 thousand guaranteed operations. In this regard, the gates are quite tenacious. In the cameras of the newer models 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark III and 1D Mark IV, they use the same shutters, the shape of the curtain is identical, but the shutter life is increased there - now it is 300 thousand operations. According to the masters, the simple installation of new curtains shutter performance is fully restored, and if you install curtains from newer cameras, the shutter life increases. Apparently, the new cameras used more wear-resistant materials for the production of curtain shutters. The fact is that if the shutter repair in the future stopped you from acquiring one of the cameras of the Mark II series, then be quiet - curtains from Mark III and Mark IV are easily sold on aliexpress and ebay.

If you are interested in some repair questions, you can feel free to write to me and I will help you as much as I can.

Examples of photographs for various optics

To compile a more complete picture for the reader on the capabilities of the Camera and the Picture, which can be obtained from it, I prepared quite a few examples of photos for various optics, which I have or took for the test. Lists of test subjects: Canon EF 50 f / 1.8 STM, Canon EF 28-90 f / 4-5,6, Canon EF 50 f / 1.4 USM, Canon EF 85 f / 1.8 USM, Canon EF 135 f / 2L USM, Canon EF 300 f / 4L USM, Tokina AT-X PRO 16-28 f / 2.8, Sigma 70-200 f / 2.8 EX DG HSM, Sigma 8 f / 4 EX DG, Sigma 15 f / 2.8 EX DG, Yongnuo YN50 f / 1.4, Yongnuo 35 f / 2, Helios 44-2 58 f / 2.

On a full-frame camera with a not very high resolution of the matrix and, consequently, not a very high requirement for optics, all the objec- tives proved to be quite worthy. True, the periodic camera sets a colder white balancethan he really is. The only thing when using the Yongnuo YN50 f / 1.4 lens is that the camera periodically overexposures the frame.

Personal experience

I have been using Canon Cameras for work for a long time and for almost 11 years I have been accustomed to their ergonomics and the result obtained. Later, I bought myself the Sony A7 Series cameras, which have a large number of modern functions and parameters, but taking the Canon 1Ds Mark II camera in your hands, you immediately understand that it is conveniently in the hand and how convenient it is to use. Of course, I was amazed at the quality of the image and the very pleasant picture obtained with 1Ds Mark II. I regularly use the ĸаĸ Camera for work, and for creativity and photo walking. I am absolutely not confused by the weight of the Camera - after a few days you just stop noticing it. Considering the low cost of 1Ds Mark II and its availability in the secondary market, I can recommend it not only as a convenient camera for the soul with a pleasant picture, but also as a professional tool that allows you to work successfully, especially if you do not need high ISO values.

You will find more reviews from readers of Radozhiva here.

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Comments: 80, on the topic: Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II. Review from the reader Radozhiva

  • Valery Nazarkin

    So you realize what resource is in the camera, that after 16 years the camera can be successfully used for professional work

  • Alexey

    It is pleasant to read such a rare now Adequate review of such a camera. From myself, I can add that it takes some time to get used to ergonomics, because all units were developed by another division of the company and their Zen is different from the Zen of those who developed all the other cameras :) There is only one drawback for the camera - it’s not visible in the small and blind display . (Mk III has a much better display) On the other hand, as was quite rightly pointed out, the camera is not mistaken with focus and BB, so I have to look closely at the display - “what happened there?” no matter how necessary. I look at it only a histogram. It should also be noted that on units there is a problem of installing adapters from manual glasses. It’s hard to write more in the comments, but those interested will find everything on Victor Lushnikov’s website.

  • B. R. P.

    Thanks so much for the review. Very interesting and detailed.

  • Not a bot

    135ka is simply divine)

  • Pokemon

    Thanks for the review! I really waited.
    Late last fall, I bought 1Ds_mk3 and 1Ds_mk2.
    Ergonomics 1Ds_mk2 a little bit strained me, as well as battery operation at + 5-8C.
    1Ds_mk3 and the battery holds better and the ergonomics are nicer, the menu is more convenient.
    *
    In focus, too, 1Ds_mk2 and 1Ds_mk3 differ markedly - 3 is noticeably faster and more accurate.
    *
    Yesterday I bought DSTE batteries for 1Ds_mk3 and 1Ds_mk2. Not a fan of non-original batteries, but there was nowhere to go - the originals were either not found or inadequately expensive.
    Tk before that there was no Canon in long-term use while I bought Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70 / 2.6-2.8. I really want to take the Canon 28-70 / 2.8L, but after reading the reviews about them from the repairmen, all the desire to take this lens was almost gone.
    The color profile from both cameras is very pleasing to the eye and does not require linting for hours at night.
    RAW processing Canon DPP.
    PS> 1Ds_mk2 has a very “musical” shutter. Just like from a film camera)

    • Pokemon

      I also noticed that 1Ds_mk2 may hesitate to focus or refuse to focus at dusk or in the evening in the apartment (despite the light turned on everywhere).
      1Ds_mk3 did not notice this.

    • Alexey

      I do not recommend Canon 28-70 / 2.8L, because almost all of them that have survived today have turbidity in gluing the front lens block. About color - it seems to me subjectively, caesna that with MkII the color is more natural and vibrant than with MkIII.

    • Alexey

      ”1Ds_mk2 has a very“ musical ”shutter. Just like from a film camera) ”why just like? he is with her. canon eos 1v - this is the founder of all digital units. almost everything was taken from there.

  • Master

    The shutters on all Canon 1Ds are very reliable. I came across copies with mileage of more than 2 million on the native shutter. What can not be said about Nikon.
    Curtains from Mark III and Mark IV are suitable for 1D, 1Ds, 1Ds Mark II .. but not vice versa.

    • Valery Nazarkin

      It is quite logical that on the contrary they shouldn’t come up, I have a spare shutter, but there isn’t one curtain, I would put it in from 1d4 unless of course you can find them in Moscow because it’s a big risk to order from China that they will come

  • Master

    Mark ii

  • Master

    Mark III

  • Vyacheslav

    I bought a 1Ds Mark II three years ago for about $ 800 with a mileage of 27 thousand. Canon service in Kharkov told me to save it like an apple of an eye, because there are very few such cameras in this state in the country. Well, shore :)
    A year ago, I could not stand it and still bought 1Ds Mark IIІ. Not a replacement, but in addition to 2-ke. The cameras are different, both in ergonomics and in the result. Of course, 1Ds Mark IIІ is perceived as a much more advanced and modern camera, although it is already outdated. Nevertheless, I love 1Ds Mark II and use it “for the soul”, mainly complete with the 135th. What can I say about the camera itself and in comparison with the older sister:
    1) The color of 1Ds Mark II is uniquely its own, original, very natural and somehow not at all glamorous-modern, but vital, or something. And this applies to the camera jpg, which is quite good and can often be dispensed with without fooling with RAW. It is difficult to describe in words, but this is clearly visible by examples, incl. and given here in the review. Many photographers like this color, but I noticed that young people want more brightness and saturation. A matter of taste, of course.
    2) In spite of the low mileage, my carcass showed a common defect - at shutter speeds shorter than 1/2000, a light appears on top of the frame. A small bright strip, which is formed due to the rebound of the curtain. Not very annoying, but the fact is present. I did not change the shutter, I just take into account the need for cropping when cropping. I read that many cameras of this model have this jamb. When buying a used camera, you should check it for short exposures.
    3) ISO. Well, everything is clear, this is an old camera. I shoot at ISO 200-400, not higher, because then the grain. Of course, it depends on the modes, but most often at 800 the grain is already very pronounced. The grain is different, this camera is pleasant, but nonetheless ...
    4) The dynamic range is small, this must be taken into account. It is difficult to shoot very contrasting pictures; you can easily whiten light. But I have a favorite Pentax K10D, which has even less DD, and nothing, somehow I got it :)
    5) What else needs to be considered is the absence of a dust rat. The camera does not have automatic sensor cleaning, and therefore it is often clogged. On the covered aperture values, all these particles become visible. Cleaning is not a penny, therefore I do not advise changing lenses often, especially in dusty places.
    6) Some adapters from manual lenses on EOS do not work on this model. A message pops up saying that there is no lens, and that’s it. This is an unpleasant nuance, because I wanted to use a large fleet of autofocus glasses on it, but I had to put up with it and use only my native lenses. There are craftsmen who give advice on how to get rid of such a problem, but some of the tried and tested methods did not give results, and I did not want to use the rest.
    About comparison with the older model 1Ds Mark IIІ:
    - 3 gives a different color, more glamorous, expensive, as customers like. At the same time, her DD is also not so hot, ISO also does not allow to twist painlessly more than 800, and the weight of the carcass is not much less. But the battery holds better and costs less, in addition, it is similar to the one on the 1D Mark IV, and the charger is the same.
    - 3 well digests manual glasses with any adapters. I tried different, everything is ok. But still, she loves branded L-lenses :) I like to experiment with 6D manual ones much more!
    - 3 is more universal and predictable, I actually shoot it much more often, because the result is more reliable, including focusing.
    In the end, would I change 2-ku to 3-ku? No. It may seem strange after the above, but shooting on 1Ds Mark II always gives pleasure from the process. The legendary camera, and it became her for a reason

    • Alexey

      “6) Some of the adapters from manual lenses on EOS do not work on this model. ”
      I wrote above that this is all described in many places, as an example on the website of Victor Lushnikov.

      • Vyacheslav

        Yes, everything has already been written somewhere. I just summed up my personal experience

        • Alexey

          everything works for me and everything. so I advise you to read and do as recommended. and calmly shoot on manual glasses.

    • Valery Nazarkin

      There is already much more brightness and saturation, because of this I bought it, but it’s not a bursting color like Samsung smartphones with Super Amoled screens, but it’s always so truthful and a bit smart that, in any case, comparing with Sony a7 - Canon 1Ds mark II on this aspect, a clear leader!

    • Valery Nazarkin

      I have an M42-EOS adapter - stupid without a chip, threw an error, I looked where that petal that clicks on the pusher in the camera mount and filed it with a file so that the pusher does not click and the problem is solved the same can be done with other adapters. And the pushrod itself in the bayonet is probably in order to protect against the problem indicated in the review, that is, power is not supplied to the lens until this pushrod is pressed, which in theory should exclude a short circuit, therefore I advise all adapters with chips not to file, so that there is AF confirmation but check the contacts so that they match in the adapter and in the mount, because one of my acquaintances, due to a bad adapter with a crooked chip, had a short circuit on the 1D mark IIN camera and, as they said in the workshop, the release coil burned, apparently into the shutter e, which of course is strange, but I'm not surprised at anything ...

      • Alexey

        the end cap in the bayonet is inherited from the film cameras. when it is closed, power is supplied to the lens. and the power of logic is always there. in modern cameras, the trailer was abandoned, there a sign of the correct installation of the lens is the closure of the two extreme contacts of the bayonet in the camera, a wide area has been made on the lenses in this place.

      • Alexey

        “The coil of descent burned” I can’t imagine what needs to be done to burn it. more precisely, there are two of them, for each curtain. their resistance is very high, there is simply no voltage source in the chamber of such a magnitude that could provide a current in the coils sufficient for them to overheat and fail.

        • Valery Nazarkin

          they could just invent this problem in order to cut money, because replacing the fuse helped me, here are the real problems if I closed +12 and +3.3 volts of the line, it happened by accident, I was lucky that there were spare parts, but I also had to replace the transistor at the entrance from which smoke fell can you imagine my feelings, because such tricks are not often possible to contemplate in a similar technique)))

          • Valery Nazarkin

            but I was looking for a problem in a leisurely rhythm for almost 3 days

          • Alexey

            but don’t need to close it) I was presented with a nikon d2xs, which didn’t unscrew the bolt inside, which holds the handle that closes the viewfinder shutter. and this bolt, walking along the camera, still closed 14 volts from the battery and the output 3.3 volts of the built-in dc-dc converter. I couldn’t endure such a camera processor and died quietly)), but everything else in the camera survived. made a laboratory mock-up of the camera out of it, on it I show everyone who wants it how everything works - a shutter, a mirror and aperture drive and a focus drive.

    • Ivan

      You can learn how to clean the matrix yourself. There is nothing complicated about it, only accuracy is required.

      • Valery Nazarkin

        this is understandable only in the room there is a lot of dust, well, I changed the filter, because in the cell it had a couple of scratches that are sometimes visible on closed ones.

  • SashOK

    A couple of years ago I had the opportunity to shoot this camera in the autumn in the city. I saved the pictures to my flash drive, I looked at home and was surprised - what awesome colors I get right away from the camera, you can even not rotate the RAVs and not photoshop anything. Comparing with his 7000 Nikon, where you need to Photoshop to get beautiful, I was pleasantly surprised by the picture from Kenon. Although, it’s understandable why this is so, the price difference between these cameras is huge.
    And now I look at your examples with beautiful girls and rich colors, I remembered my “test drive” of this camera!

  • koba

    I just looked and can I buy such a camera in excellent condition in China? You can, there are only 2 copies, but not in condition 98, and only one of them is in state 95, but this is already very good, though it costs $ 750. So essentially they have already ended their existence. 1Ds3 is much better and you can buy it for $ 900 so far. Soon they will not be either, they are already - the history of cameras from Kenon. And so - great cameras.

    • Valery Nazarkin

      On the site - auction injapan found Not a few options for the old tkhniki and almost always ideally

    • Pokemon

      On Avito in Russia 1Ds_mk3 are found in good condition with low mileage (there are even documents on mileage) - the issue price is from 55 to 85 thousand rubles. It happens more expensive (sellers are inadequate or incomprehensible) or cheaper (dead cameras).
      Offers are regularly updated and there are a lot of them.
      *
      But 1Ds_mk2 with low mileage in good condition rarely pop up. At a price of 35 to 50 thousand rubles.

  • Vio

    With all due respect to the older generation (cameras) - old stuff, however :)

  • Vladimir

    About the misses in these cameras. It is no coincidence that you indicated these cameras. They have the same matrix. The network is full of miss slip stories. In general, misses take place on multi-pixel cameras, which include 6d and 5DM3.

    • @ Lex

      What do megapixels have to do with phase sensors on a prism?)
      It’s more like marketing canon, all the best goes to oneself. They were the only master on af they had

      • Valery Nazarkin

        They do not stand on a prism, but in the form of separate sensors on a sensor in a shaft under a mirror, to which reflection is reflected, through an auxiliary small mirror, and in the prism there are only visible points with a backlight to control the sensor operation.

        • Ivan

          There is an exposure sensor near the pentaprism, and the points with the LCD backlight are not on the prism, but on the focusing screen, which is located between the mirror and the prism.

          • Valery Nazarkin

            Well, that's what I had in mind, the AF sensor below I’m talking about ...

  • Valery Nazarkin

    Friends, tell me please, I was faced with such a situation that on a street in sunny weather the white balance is slightly green when shooting, and on some frames it is quite clearly green, if you click on an auto BB in ACR or C1, it can even more tighten the balance to green, just like green tinting Otherwise, you can unscrew all the norms and the manual balance correctly, but somehow I didn’t notice this before, did the sun seem to be like this? this is generally the norm for the camera, recently I changed the filter on the matrix because of a couple of scratches, set it as it should, but here is where the top and bottom did not notice if this could affect the result, should I turn the filter over or still the situation with the filter it’s not connected, by the way, the camera likes to resize the picture a little with some lenses, generally at any shutter speed, quite a bit and easy to edit, but there’s not much pleasant

    • Alexey

      bb and exposure errors - this is a problem with a small matrix that is above the pentaprism. there is no rubbish?

      • Valery Nazarkin

        maybe this is my case, although I didn’t touch this place, today I’ll check again in the afternoon, if the problem remains I will look what’s wrong with the sensor, if of course it can be replaced separately, I’ll look at the donor part, otherwise I don’t want to change the whole top part with this a zoo from wires, I'm afraid I won’t collect normally later, and thanks for the tip

        • Ivan

          After you have repeatedly disassembled your camera and changed the details in it, anything can happen to it, it will “green” and so on. Keep in mind that after replacing parts, the camera must be set up on special equipment.

          • Valery Nazarkin

            It is understandable, but so far there are no other options, especially when the last time I took apart, I just touched the filter on the matrix and that's it

        • Alexey

          You cannot replace the exposure meter matrix with a donor matrix WITHOUT CORRECTION of several parameters using the service software. There will be exposure and BB errors.

      • Valery Nazarkin

        I didn’t understand one thing, the sensor I need is the one that is above the main pentaprism with a small angular mirror - a prism and about 8 contacts on the loop or the one that is below the main pentaprism with a large loop of 20 contacts with about a rather large mirror, which is only visible a little?

        • Alexey

          the exposure meter matrix is ​​located on top of the pentaprism, closer to the JVI, and at the bottom of the pentaprism is an LCD that displays camera parameters in the JVI.

      • Valery Nazarkin

        Well, yes, the problem came up recently, I just cleaned the filter before it, today I turned it over, I thought maybe it’s not right, it’s like the norm, but the weather is cloudy and it’s not lying, the only gray tones are a little blue, but judging by the pictures from the Internet, something like this should be

      • Valery Nazarkin

        I didn’t understand you right away, morning)) There’s probably no rubbish just over petaprism in a small matrix, because I didn’t climb there and did not twist anything, but it was glued there to the prismatic hike so that the garbage could get there, I’ll watch the test shots after lunch I’m shooting, from this I’ll dance

      • Valery Nazarkin

        Well, yes it is necessary to check the loops and the general board from the bottom, there is a suspicion that something could have suffered there, but I did not change it during the repair, but I can throw a donor donation

    • Alexey

      Well, another problem with exposure may be associated with a non-native focusing screen. or with its strong pollution.

      • Valery Nazarkin

        in this case everything is set up as it should

  • Valery Nazarkin

    it’s kind of like the situation improved, though the weather is cloudy, but the BB is in place by the camera, considering that the 21-zone sensor is not worth it to require supernatural and it’s possible that it was just a problem due to bad light, I think tomorrow if I can sunny I can check and the exposition lies mainly with the YN50 f / 1.4, maybe the problem is in the lens, especially since they already released earlier firmware, where the description stated that it eliminates this problem

    • Alexey

      the fact that the exposure is wrong with the Chinese is nothing strange. no need to buy this at all. It’s easy to check - there should be no errors at all on an open hole.

  • Valery Nazarkin

    135 f / 2L

  • Valery Nazarkin

    Helios 44P from the camera redone start

  • Valery Nazarkin

    In general, gentlemen, I carefully examined the issue and sorted out the problem and, in general, there is such a spare part for 2700r for replacing the motherboard in Moscow, given that it will not be expensive to change it, a characteristic parasitic structure is visible in the images and no manipulations helped to solve this, on images taken before the camera was repaired, when there was another motherboard, then there were no jambs with the image, but unfortunately the board left us partially and normally doesn’t work anymore, so the donor was installed and from the camera where the matrix died, which took away the matrix controller board and the motherboard because of this, and a defect appeared in the form of stripes in the image, some filters might be damaged or a problem with the buffer memory, unfortunately I do not have a thermal imager and a soldering station to check, by the way, if you also install a matrix controller from that kit, then the problem with the bands increases, there is a working board from 1D mark II, but another firmware is uploaded there, so the board does not want to work, and again the soldering station and programmer A further experiments, so waiting for the end of the month, I'll be able to get spare parts and change around May 20-22, at the end unsubscribe what happened. Many people write that tuning is required after replacing parts with special equipment, and, in fact, this is not the first time I have been repairing cameras, although I am not a professional master, but after replacing the boards, there have never been problems, apart from broken and hot pixels, but In fact, they are also on new cameras, and in practice do not interfere with the use of

    • Ivan

      Not a camera, but some kind of Frankestein comes out. As for the settings - this is not fiction. All unofficial services do repairs in this way - they simply change parts (and, for the most part, were used from other inoperative, disassembled cameras) and do not configure anything. After such a repair, the camera may well be operational, but it does not meet various parameters, according to quality standards.

      • Valery Nazarkin

        No, well, that’s understandable, but I don’t get fat, the main thing is that the picture returns to normal, I called this service there in quantity, there are 2 pieces of motherboards there are still other parts, I’ll go to pick up and see what else is there, for example, I I would buy a spare DC-DC board prozapas considering the availability of prices and over-prices on E-Bay

      • Alexey

        everything is just like that. there with a dozen, if not more, settings need to be made (more precisely - too lazy to run software and watch). when changing the board, there will just be errors with exposure metering, BB, working out short shutter speeds, synchronizing with the flash, gamma correction of data from the matrix, well, AF will also not understand how to work. if you have software and a more or less lively native board, you can save all the settings from it to a file, and then overwrite them on a new board.

        • Valery Nazarkin

          If there are such problems, you can help, though I’m in Moscow, and I don’t know where you live

          • Valery Nazarkin

            a burned-out board gives signs of life, but the picture gives out such

            • Valery Nazarkin

              картинка

          • Ivan

            I am in Moscow, but I worked at the Nikon service center. In any case, at least Canon, at least something else, is very expensive to assemble the entire set of equipment for repair. And in the official service, repairing your camera will be more expensive than a new one.

            • Alexey

              Transferring settings data from one board to another will be neither difficult nor expensive. Of course, if there are adequate staff. and if this is the ASC, which has all the software.

              • Valery Nazarkin

                or maybe you just need to rearrange the USB flash drive from one board to another and you don’t need to look for software, there’s a small BGA chip that you can throw a couple of trifles with a hairdryer

            • Valery Nazarkin

              they already hike and do not repair

            • Valery Nazarkin

              I somehow changed the motherboard in 6D after the replacement, I did not feel any difference at all, as I did not try to find

              • Alexey

                Settings are stored NOT ONLY in the USB flash drive.

              • Valery Nazarkin

                It’s clear, but so far I have come to the conclusion that it is the artifacts caused by the affected components in the image, because when I changed the matrix and its motherboard but left the amplifier board from the dead matrix, these artifacts were also there, so still I think replacing the motherboard will help me get rid of artifacts in the form of stripes, and the rest is not so important

  • Paul

    Better to take the second nickle, as for me. The sensor is newer and better, less weight. All these deferambs are 90% too much for me) As soon as you start working competently in Lightroom with raw, even the photos from my old Panas G5, I’m sure few will distinguish with good optics from the same 1Ds Mark II

    • Alexey

      “Units”, in particular, are designed specifically to get the right color in general and the skin tone in particular IMMEDIATELY in JPEG, because one of their purposes is journalism, and there it’s not generally accepted to use RAW and, often, it’s unacceptable to process photos at all, that is, they should be printed as removed. In general, the criticism of “units” often comes from those who have never shot them :) But almost anyone who has used such cameras for at least a day or two returns with great difficulty to “ordinary” ones, because, despite a kind of ergonomics, this is the most convenient and reliable cameras from all existing. The “units” from Nikon are very similar in both sensations and quality / reliability / ergonomics. Well, a lot of weight is a bit of an odd argument against PROFESSIONAL and weatherproof cameras. With class 80-200 2.8 optics, the weight balance is perfect. The camera sits in her hand like a glove. Moreover, the convenience of shooting with a vertical camera position is no less than with a horizontal one. That is why all my “ordinary” cameras have original battery pens, it’s hard to overestimate the convenience they provide.

    • Alexey

      About the "photo from my old Panas G5". If you print a photo from both cameras measuring, say, 90 by 60 cm, then the difference in picture quality will be noticeable to any inexperienced viewer :) However, on a good monitor, this difference can also be noticed. At the same time, no one says that this Panasonic is a bad camera. Not at all, she just has a different purpose.

    • Valery Nazarkin

      I’ve been shooting for 5d5 for 2 years, but the picture is not bad, but the nature of the noise and nikakayuschie autofoaks and ergonomics, even with the handle is not at all that - thanks no!

  • Pokemon

    Yesterday I walked around VDNH with a film EOS 3 with a bat.unit. The feeling of control and of the camera itself - as from 1DS mk2.
    The battery pack is already on 8 (!) Finger batteries. As a result, the camera seems even heavier than the 1DS mk2.
    The shutter sound is similar - whistling clanging.

    • Ivan

      If you don’t take off too often, then buying 8 batteries makes no sense (unless of course they are already available), it’s easier to get by with the batteries. More weight is probably a plus in terms of stabilization. Last year, I decided to shoot with my old Zenith. The clanking sound was so unusual! In general, I noticed that when you shoot for a long time with one DSLR and pick up another one, even within the same brand, you begin to listen and there is a feeling of a malfunctioning mechanism, since each camera has its own sound and vibration.

    • Ivan

      Dmitry, I wanted to ask if you know Kostin Vladimir Ivanovich?

      • Pokemon

        No, not known.

  • Basil

    Who can tell? Autofocus illumination in the viewfinder does not work. And the scale on the right is also not highlighted (only one arrow at the bottom of the scale). canon 1ds markii.

    • Ivan

      What to tell? This is a malfunction. There is Alexei, who has become adept at the repairs of the Kenons. Maybe share the experience.

      • Basil

        Yes, in principle, I can disassemble, assemble, solder. To know where it is, and what to change.

        • Ivan

          Most likely, there is a malfunction in the LCD display of the focusing screen or its backlight. If you have never disassembled the camera, then there is a high probability of something breaking, or the camera will need a mandatory setting after disassembly and assembly. I do not have a service instruction, I found only a list of spare parts (https://elektrotanya.com/canon_eos-1ds_mark_ii_parts.pdf/download.html#dl) Possible faulty details I highlighted in red:

          • Ivan

            And so:

            • Basil

              Thank. And then I can not find repair materials at all. I disassembled, checked the fastening of the loops, etc. Now the screen is highlighted, but with half-pressing and focusing, all points flash. It does not turn out that one central is highlighted. And when choosing, the selection of points is not visible. On the right, the scale does not highlight at all. I will analyze again I will check the details that you showed.

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