For the provided review Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital many thanks Valery Nazarkin (instagram).
Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital
The EOS-1Ds Mark II is a professional camera that has become a continuation of the highly successful in the professional environment EOS-1Ds (a review of which is already
available on Radozhiva). 1Ds Mark II was announced back in 2004 at a price of $ 8000 and was released until 2007, after which the model came to replace it 1DS Mark III.
The main application of 1Ds Mark II: studio photography, magazine photography, stock photography, in general - any kind of filming where high resolution and high quality photographs are required.
In front, the camera has retained the familiar, classic appearance of its predecessor, almost without any changes. In front is the button for repeating the diaphragm, the lamp of the timer indicator and the button for removing the lens. The elements are located, in my opinion, it’s very convenient, when using the Camera you don’t have to intercept it, which is extremely important in professional filming, where sometimes it costs a lot of money.
On the back side, the camera has nothing superfluous, everything is quite thought out and, in comparison with its predecessor, changes in the controls are insignificant. The ergonomic camera is very easy to perceive in the hand - it is "аĸ necessary".
I will not dwell on appearance and management for a long time, there is a lot of information about this on the Internet and I can only say that after a short time for getting used to it, management becomes familiar and perceived quite logically and routinely.
Key Features
The camera has a dust-moisture-protective housing, which allows you to use 1Ds Mark II in difficult weather conditions, for example, in hiking and expeditions. The camera is convenient for shooting in both orientations due to the built-in battery handle, although this negatively affected the weight of the camera, which is 1.5 g.
The camera works without problems with any lenses created for the Canon EF mount, with the exception of the very old third-party optics created for the Canon EOS film cameras.
1Ds Mark II has a full-frame sensor: 36 X 24 mm CMOS, with low-pass filter and effective resolution 16.7 megapixels. Given the above parameters, the camera has a "fat" pixel size: 7.2 μm, which has a very positive effect on the final result and reduces the optical requirements. The output image from the Camera is very pleasant, colorful and contrast, despite not the highest dynamic range, and only 12-bit RAW file format.
The autofocus camera system has 45-point focusing (7 points), in good lighting the autofocus operation does not cause any complaints in practice with any lenses I tested. Viewfinder with 100% frame coverage and quality pentaprism. The desire to check the sharpness after the shot disappears - the autofocus works perfectly, even if you use non-cross points autofocus.
1Ds Mark II has slots for 2-card memory formats: CompactFlash Type I / II (supports Microdrive) and Secure Digital, including SDHC.
Serial shooting 4 frames per second, which is quite enough for most tasks, even some sports can be successfully filmed. The camera buffer holds 11 RAW shots at ISO 100 and 10 shots at any other ISO setting. When shooting in JPEG, everything is not unambiguous, below are the parameters of resolution, ISO and the number of shots that fit into the buffer:
Buffer Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital
This table will be useful when filming a dynamic reportage, which does not require further deep processing of the images or requires urgent delivery of the material (parameters are shown with noise reduction disabled and quality '10' for all resolutions of the JPEG format).
ISO in Camera is available from 100 to 1600 units, it is also possible to expand to the values of L - ISO 50 and H - ISO 3200, I would like to note that in this camera Canon acted honestly - there are no “Marketing” ISOs in the camera. Even the ISO 3200 value can be successfully used for some tasks with a few caveats.
Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark II Digital
Camera features, personal experience
There is a lot of information on the Internet on this Camera, but there is some information, including from personal experience, which you most likely will not find anywhere and it will definitely be useful to users of this Camera, or those who wish to acquire it.
I was interested to check the maximum amount of memory that the 1Ds Mark II “dries up”. And so, the camera uses the FAT32 file system (at that time EXFAT was not yet used in cameras and, in my opinion, was not even adopted as a standard/was in development). First I took memory cards of the format CF and all available volumes, including 128 GB, which the camera perfectly formatted and used, even when using an adapter CF – SDXC, allowing the use of format cards SD in the card slot CF. All memory sizes worked perfectly. But when installing a 256 GB memory card into the camera, the 1Ds Mark II saw the capacity of the card, but when trying to format it, it gave an error and the ability to use such a card disappeared. And then the thought struck me that this whole situation looked strange, after which I tried to format the memory card on the computer in FAT6 format. By the way, I use the operating system MAC OS X 32 Catalina; for formatting I used a standard disk utility. And lo and behold! The camera worked perfectly with this memory card without any problems. I was extremely surprised when it turned out that the same rule applies to the memory card slot SD, with the only difference that the threshold value of memory card capacity is 32 GB, that is, memory cards with a capacity of more than 32 GB will be functional. Even the modern Sandisk Etreem Pro 256 GB memory card worked perfectly, on which more than 10.000 frames fit in RAW format, I can’t say the exact value since the frame counter in the camera is limited to 9.999.
The camera uses a small screen - only 2 inches and with a small resolution, but it displays color very adequately. It is made using TN technology. 1Ds Mark II quite accurately determines white balance, exposure, and other automatic parameters, as set by the professional camera.
I can’t but praise the autonomy of the Camera, my copy came to me in a set with three full-time batteries, one of which was original and is living out its life, it is possible to shoot about 300-500 frames on it, depending on the camera settings and shooting mode. The other 2 accumulators turned out to be very good, one of them was ordered new from China, the DSTE company, a few months ago and can quite easily capture 4000-5000 shots at full charge. The third battery is original, but survived the update using the batteries eneloop, which allows you to capture about 3000-4000 frames per charge. I have never come from a renter with a fully discharged battery, even in the cold season.
In camera settings CF.n there is a setting that allows, when focusing, to activate additional autofocus points that carry auxiliary functions, but unfortunately for a long time I could not find at least some explanation of the principle and operating conditions of these settings. As we found out, with the auxiliary point function activated, when using optics with a focal length of up to 200 mm, 1-2 nearby auxiliary autofocus points can be activated, if, according to the algorithm, this is required. When using optics from 200 mm to 300 mm, an algorithm of up to 7 auxiliary points is connected. At 300 mm or more, up to 11 auxiliary points can be connected simultaneously for shooting. All described settings function when the corresponding parameters are set and work in the “ONE SHOT” mode.
Another interesting point about autofocus: previously I had a very long experience using cameras Canon 6D and 5D Mark III, in the number of several instances, and for all of these cameras, some of my lenses “smeared” and required a fine tuning of autofocus. With the transition to 1Ds Mark II, all available lenses hit exactly on target and do not require adjustment, which is not provided for in the Camera. It’s hard to say why Canon 6D and 5D Mark III such problems, if someone has information on this, you can share it in the comments.
During the operation of the camera, I have had minor malfunctions that require disassembling the camera and eliminating the problems that have arisen. We managed to find out interesting features. For example, I found that the camera starts on the 1Ds Mark II, 1D Mark II and 1D Mark IIn are very similar and many of the components are identical. Taking into account the age of the cameras, the electronics occupies a significant place inside their case and due to the fact that it was not possible to fit all the necessary components on one board, the motherboard was divided into nodes in the form of several boards connected in series. The same rule applies to the shutter and release control units of the mirror. During the repair process, we found out that when replacing these motherboards from one camera to another, the camera is converted to the model from which the kit is installed. In this way, a 1Ds Mark II camera can be converted into a 1D Mark II by replacing a set of boards and vice versa. The components that control the shutter and the mirror, the shutter and the shutter itself, as well as the camera power board, are no different from each other. The same rule applies to the top panel and rear panel with display and buttons, the only difference is that the rear roof of the 1D Mark IIn camera is different and most likely will not be able to fully work on other models. Another feature of the 1Ds Mark II is that to replace the shutter, you will need to disassemble the entire camera, but you will not need to remove the sensor itself. To replace the matrix, minimal disassembly of the camera is required, which allows, if necessary, to adjust the matrix, to spend not much time on disassembly and assembly. I did this procedure - the alignment is done using shims. In general, the design, taking into account the time of the camera's release, looks quite logical and understandable, but still there are questions about the power board - the main power lines are implemented in the form of solder wires. The solder points are very close to each other, which, if short-circuited, can damage a number of important components of the camera, which will make it impossible to operate or make diagnostics difficult. Fortunately Canon is working on its shortcomings and in cameras of more recent models, all power connections are implemented on the basis of plastic connectors with good insulation. When assembling the camera, I soldered all the connections well and made additional insulation of the solder just in case. All in all, the fact that many of the components are compatible between cameras makes them very easy to repair. Finding spare parts is getting harder and harder, but cheap cameras with flooring for the Copies are periodically appearing on the secondary market.
Separately, I would like to touch upon the shutter, its resource and its repair. After reading what experienced craftsmen write, we managed to find out that the shutter, mechanically, came out very successful and reliable and in 99% of cases the curtains fail, which are designed for 200 thousand guaranteed operations. In this regard, the locks are quite tenacious. Cameras of the newer models 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark III and 1D Mark IV use similar shutters, the shape of the curtains is identical, but the shutter resource is increased there - now it is 300 thousand actuations. According to the masters, simply by installing new curtains, the shutter performance is fully restored, and if you install curtains from newer cameras, the shutter resource increases. Apparently, the new cameras used more wear-resistant materials for the production of the curtain shutter. So if the repair of the shutter in the future stopped you from purchasing one of the Mark II cameras, then be safe - curtains from Mark III and Mark IV are sold on aliexpress and ebay without any problems.
If you are interested in some repair questions, you can feel free to write to me and I will help you as much as I can.
Examples of photographs for various optics
To compile a more complete picture for the reader on the capabilities of the Camera and the Picture, which can be obtained from it, I prepared quite a few examples of photos for various optics, which I have or took for the test. Lists of test subjects: Canon EF 50 f / 1.8 STM, Canon EF 28-90 f / 4-5,6, Canon EF 50 f / 1.4 USM, Canon EF 85 f / 1.8 USM, Canon EF 135 f / 2L USM, Canon EF 300 f / 4L USM, Tokina AT-X PRO 16-28 f / 2.8, Sigma 70-200 f / 2.8 EX DG HSM, Sigma 8 f / 4 EX DG, Sigma 15 f / 2.8 EX DG, Yongnuo YN50 f / 1.4, Yongnuo 35 f / 2, Helios 44-2 58 f / 2.
On a full-frame camera with a not very high resolution of the matrix and, consequently, not a very high requirement for optics, all the objec- tives proved to be quite worthy. True, the periodic camera sets a colder white balancethan he really is. The only thing when using the Yongnuo YN50 f / 1.4 lens is that the camera periodically overexposures the frame.
Personal experience
I have been using Canon cameras for a long time and for almost 11 years I have gotten used to their ergonomics and results. Later I bought myself Sony A7 series cameras, which have a large number of modern functions and parameters, but when I take a Canon 1Ds Mark II camera in my hands, you immediately understand how convenient it is in the hand and how easy it is to use. Of course, I was amazed at the quality of the picture and the very nice picture the 1Ds Mark II has. I regularly use the camera for work, as well as for creativity and photo walks. I am absolutely not confused by the weight of the camera - after a few days you just stop noticing it. Considering the low cost of the 1Ds Mark II and its availability on the aftermarket, I can recommend it not only as a comfortable camera for the soul with a pleasant picture, but also as a professional tool that allows you to work successfully, especially if you do not require high ISO values.
You will find more reviews from readers of Radozhiva here.
So you realize what resource is in the camera, that after 16 years the camera can be successfully used for professional work
Why did you shoot everything in 400 iso, and at the same time with a shutter speed of 1/160 ???
Shot with a flash where such parameters are
It's nice to read the now-rare ADEQUATE review of such a camera. From myself I can add that it takes some time to get used to ergonomics, because all units were developed by another division of the company and their Zen differs from the Zen of those who developed all other cameras :) The camera has only one drawback - not a damn thing is visible on a small and blind display ... (Mk III has a much better display) On the other hand, as it was quite rightly noted, the camera is not mistaken with the focus and with the WB, so look closely at the display - "what happened there?" as if not necessary. I only look at it the histogram. It should also be noted that the units have the problem of installing adapters from manual glasses. It is difficult to write in more detail in the comments, but those interested will find everything on the site of Viktor Lushnikov.
Thanks so much for the review. Very interesting and detailed.
135ka is simply divine)
Thanks for the review! I really waited.
Late last fall, I bought 1Ds_mk3 and 1Ds_mk2.
Ergonomics 1Ds_mk2 a little bit strained me, as well as battery operation at + 5-8C.
1Ds_mk3 and the battery holds better and the ergonomics are nicer, the menu is more convenient.
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In focus, too, 1Ds_mk2 and 1Ds_mk3 differ markedly - 3 is noticeably faster and more accurate.
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Yesterday I bought DSTE batteries for 1Ds_mk3 and 1Ds_mk2. Not a fan of non-original batteries, but there was nowhere to go - the originals could not be found or were inadequately expensive.
Tk before that there was no Canon in long-term use while I bought Tokina AT-X Pro 28-70 / 2.6-2.8. I really want to take the Canon 28-70 / 2.8L, but after reading the reviews about them from the repairmen, all the desire to take this lens was almost gone.
The color profile from both cameras is very pleasing to the eye and does not require linting for hours at night.
RAW processing Canon DPP.
PS> 1Ds_mk2 has a very "musical" shutter. Just like from a film camera)
I also noticed that 1Ds_mk2 may hesitate to focus or refuse to focus at dusk or in the evening in the apartment (despite the light turned on everywhere).
1Ds_mk3 did not notice this.
I do not recommend Canon 28-70 / 2.8L, because almost all of them that have survived to this day have dregs in the gluing of the front lens unit. About the color - it seems to me, subjectively, that the color with the MkII is more natural and lively than with the MkIII.
“The 1Ds_mk2 has a very musical shutter. Just like from a film camera) ”why just how? he is from her. canon eos 1v is the ancestor of all digital units. almost everything is taken from there.
The shutters on all Canon 1Ds are very reliable. I came across copies with mileage of more than 2 million on the native shutter. What can not be said about Nikon.
Curtains from Mark III and Mark IV are suitable for 1D, 1Ds, 1Ds Mark II .. but not vice versa.
It is quite logical that on the contrary they shouldn’t come up, I have a spare shutter, but there isn’t one curtain, I would put it in from 1d4 unless of course you can find them in Moscow because it’s a big risk to order from China that they will come
Mark ii
Mark III
Hello. How much does it cost to replace the entire shutter with a 1d mark iv? The curtains have already been changed on it 2 times
I bought a 1Ds Mark II three years ago for about $ 800 with a mileage of 27 thousand. Canon service in Kharkov told me to save it like an apple of an eye, because there are very few such cameras in this state in the country. Well, shore :)
A year ago I could not stand it and bought 1Ds Mark IIІ. Not for replacement, but in addition to 2-ke. Cameras are different, both in ergonomics and in the result obtained. Of course, the 1Ds Mark IIІ is perceived as a much more advanced and modern camera, although it is already morally outdated. Nevertheless, I love and use the 1Ds Mark II "for the soul", mainly in a set with the 135th. What can I say about the camera itself and in comparison with the older sister:
1) The color of 1Ds Mark II is uniquely its own, original, very natural and somehow not at all glamorous-modern, but vital, or something. And this applies to the camera jpg, which is quite good and can often be dispensed with without fooling with RAW. It is difficult to describe in words, but this is clearly visible by examples, incl. and given here in the review. Many photographers like this color, but I noticed that young people want more brightness and saturation. A matter of taste, of course.
2) Despite the low mileage, my carcass turned out to have a common defect - at shutter speeds shorter than 1/2000, a light appears on top of the frame. A small light stripe that forms due to the bounce of the curtain. Not very annoying, but the fact is present. I did not change the shutter, I just take into account the need for cropping when cropping. I read that many cameras of this model have this jamb. When buying a used camera, it is worth checking it out with short exposures.
3) ISO. Well, everything is clear, this is an old camera. I shoot at ISO 200-400, not higher. then grain. Of course, it depends on the modes, but most often at 800 there is already a pronounced grain. The grain is the grain of strife, this camera is pleasant, but nevertheless ...
4) The dynamic range is small, this must be taken into account. It is difficult to shoot very contrasting pictures; you can easily whiten light. But I have a favorite Pentax K10D, which has even less DD, and nothing, somehow I got it :)
5) What else should be taken into account is the absence of a vacuum cleaner. The camera does not have an automatic sensor cleaning, and therefore it often becomes clogged. At closed aperture values all these particles become visible. Cleaning is not a penny, so I don't recommend changing lenses often, especially in dusty places.
6) Some adapters from manual lenses on EOS do not work on this model. A message pops up saying that there is no lens, and that’s it. This is an unpleasant nuance, because I wanted to use a large fleet of autofocus glasses on it, but I had to put up with it and use only my native lenses. There are craftsmen who give advice on how to get rid of such a problem, but some of the tried and tested methods did not give results, and I did not want to use the rest.
About comparison with the older model 1Ds Mark IIІ:
- 3 gives a different color, more glamorous, expensive, as clients like. At the same time, her DD is also not so hot, ISO also does not allow to twist more than 800 painlessly, and the weight of the carcass is not much less. But the battery holds better and costs less, moreover, it is similar to the one on the 1D Mark IV, and the charger is the same.
- 3-ka well digests manual glasses with any adapters. I tried different ones, everything is ok. But all the same she loves branded L-lenses :) But on 6D with manuals I like to experiment much more!
- 3 is more versatile and predictable, in fact I shoot with it much more often, because the result is more reliable, including focusing.
In the end, would I change 2-ku to 3-ku? No. It may seem strange after the above, but shooting on 1Ds Mark II always gives pleasure from the process. The legendary camera, and it became her for a reason
“6) Some of the manual lens adapters on EOS do not work on this model. "
I wrote above that this is all described in many places, as an example on the website of Victor Lushnikov.
Yes, everything has already been written somewhere. I just summed up my personal experience
everything works for me and everything. so I advise you to read and do as recommended. and calmly shoot on manual glasses.
My 1ds MII works fine with Pixco adapters, both with and without a chip, but Fujimi refused to shoot with an unchipped adapter: error Err 01 “loss of connection with the lens”. Despite the fact that this adapter works on all my other canons.
So still not with everyone, the unit is a little more picky about adapters.
Is it so difficult to read where indicated? There is a problem with the mechanics. More precisely, with the fact that the units have a lens position sensor in the mount. And therefore the size of the “tongue” of the adapter is important.
Much more brightness and saturation, because of this I bought it, but at the same time it is not a flimsy color like Samsung smartphones with Super Amoled screens, but it is always so truthful and a little elegant, at least comparing it with Sony a7 - Canon 1Ds mark II is a clear leader in this aspect!
I have an M42-EOS adapter - stupid without a chip, threw out an error, I looked at where the petal that presses on the pusher in the camera mount and filed it with a file so that the pusher would not be pressed and the problem was solved, the same can be done with other adapters. And the pusher itself in the bayonet is apparently in order to protect against the problem indicated in the review, that is, power is not supplied to the lens until this pusher is pressed, which in theory should exclude a short circuit, so I advise not to file all adapters with chips so that there is AF confirmation , but check the contacts so that they match in the adapter and in the bayonet, because one of my friends, due to a bad adapter with a crooked chip, had a short circuit on the 1D mark IIN camera and, as they said in the workshop, the release coil burned out, apparently in the shutter, which, of course, is strange, but I'm not surprised at anything ...
the end cap in the bayonet is inherited from the film cameras. when it is closed, power is supplied to the lens. and the power of logic is always there. in modern cameras, the trailer was abandoned, there a sign of the correct installation of the lens is the closure of the two extreme contacts of the bayonet in the camera, a wide area has been made on the lenses in this place.
“The trigger coil is burnt out” I have no idea what needs to be done to burn it. more precisely, there are two of them, for each curtain. their resistance is very high, there is simply no voltage source in the chamber of such magnitude that could provide a current in the coils sufficient to overheat and fail.
they could just invent this problem in order to cut money, because replacing the fuse helped me, here are the real problems if I closed +12 and +3.3 volts of the line, it happened by accident, I was lucky that there were spare parts, but I also had to replace the transistor at the entrance from which smoke fell can you imagine my feelings, because such tricks are not often possible to contemplate in a similar technique)))
but I was looking for a problem in a leisurely rhythm for almost 3 days
but it is not necessary to close such a thing) I was presented with a nikon d2xs, in which, who knows how, inside the bolt was unscrewed, which holds the handle that closes the viewfinder shutter. and this bolt, walking around the camera, still closed 14 volts from the battery and the 3.3 volt output of the built-in dc-dc converter. The camera processor could not endure such a processor and died quietly)) but everything else in the cell survived. I made a laboratory model of the camera out of it, on it I show everyone how everything works - the shutter, the mirror and diaphragm drive and the focusing drive.
You can learn how to clean the matrix yourself. There is nothing complicated about it, only accuracy is required.
this is understandable only in the room there is a lot of dust, well, I changed the filter, because in the cell it had a couple of scratches that are sometimes visible on closed ones.
“I bought 1Ds Mark II three years ago for about $ 800 with a mileage of 27 thousand. Canon service in Kharkiv said to take care of it like the apple of an eye. there are very few such cameras in this state in the country. "
There are not many of them in Russia and in the world in general with such mileage.
I bought the first 1Ds_mk2 about a year ago with a mileage of about 70 thousand frames and this year when I saw a box set from Japan with a camera mileage of less than 50.000 frames, I couldn’t stand it and took it. The Japanese apparently hardly used it before me. Fantastic kit. Then I'll try to throw a photo here. I also have 1Ds_mk3, like Vyacheslav, also with a camera range of less than 50.000 frames. I am also in the process of comparing these two great (for their time) cameras. The impressions that Vyacheslav described - agree with mine.
A couple of years ago I had the opportunity to shoot in the fall in the city with this camera. I saved the pictures on my flash drive, looked at home and wondered what awesome colors I get from the camera IMMEDIATELY, you don't even need to twist or photoshop anything. Comparing with my 7000 Nikon, where you need to photoshop to make it look beautiful, I was pleasantly surprised by the picture from Kenon. Although, it is clear why this is so, the price difference between these cameras is huge.
And now I look at your examples with beautiful girls and rich colors, I remembered my "test drive" of this camera!
I just looked, and is it possible to buy such a camera in excellent condition in China? It is possible, there are only 2 copies, but not 98 condition, and only one of them is in condition 95, but this is already very good, though it costs 750 dollars. So in fact, they have already ended their existence. The 1Ds3 is much better and you can still buy it for $ 900. Soon they won't be there either, they are already - the history of cameras from Kenon. And so - great cameras.
On the site - the auction injapan found quite a few options for old technology and almost always ideally
On Avito in Russia, 1Ds_mk3 are found in good condition with low mileage (there are even mileage documents) - the issue price is from 55 to 85 thousand rubles. Sometimes it is more expensive (sellers are inadequate or not understanding) or cheaper (dead cameras).
Offers are regularly updated and there are a lot of them.
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But 1Ds_mk2 with low mileage in good condition rarely pop up. At a price of 35 to 50 thousand rubles.
With all due respect to the older generation (cameras) - old stuff, however :)
About the misses in these cameras. It is no coincidence that you indicated these cameras. They have the same matrix. The network is full of miss slip stories. In general, misses take place on multi-pixel cameras, which include 6d and 5DM3.
What do megapixels have to do with phase sensors on a prism?)
It’s more like marketing canon, all the best goes to oneself. They were the only master on af they had
They do not stand on a prism, but in the form of separate sensors on a sensor in a shaft under a mirror, to which reflection is reflected, through an auxiliary small mirror, and in the prism there are only visible points with a backlight to control the sensor operation.
There is an exposure sensor near the pentaprism, and the points with the LCD backlight are not on the prism, but on the focusing screen, which is located between the mirror and the prism.
Well, that's about what I meant, the autofocus sensor from the bottom, I'm talking about it ...
Friends, tell me please, I was faced with such a situation that on a street in sunny weather the white balance is slightly green when shooting, and on some frames it is quite clearly green, if you click on an auto BB in ACR or C1, it can even more tighten the balance to green, just like green tinting Otherwise, you can unscrew all the norms and the manual balance correctly, but somehow I didn’t notice this before, did the sun seem to be like this? this is generally the norm for the camera, recently I changed the filter on the matrix because of a couple of scratches, set it as it should, but here is where the top and bottom did not notice if this could affect the result, should I turn the filter over or still the situation with the filter it’s not connected, by the way, the camera likes to resize the picture a little with some lenses, generally at any shutter speed, quite a bit and easy to edit, but there’s not much pleasant
bb and exposure errors - this is a problem with a small matrix that is above the pentaprism. there is no rubbish?
maybe this is my case, although I didn’t touch this place, today I’ll check again in the afternoon, if the problem remains I will look what’s wrong with the sensor, if of course it can be replaced separately, I’ll look at the donor part, otherwise I don’t want to change the whole top part with this a zoo from wires, I'm afraid I won’t collect normally later, and thanks for the tip
After you have repeatedly disassembled your camera and changed the details in it, anything can happen to it, it will “green” and so on. Keep in mind that after replacing parts, the camera must be set up on special equipment.
It is understandable, but so far there are no other options, especially when the last time I took apart, I just touched the filter on the matrix and that's it
You cannot replace the exposure meter matrix with a donor matrix WITHOUT CORRECTION of several parameters using the service software. There will be exposure and BB errors.
One thing I didn't understand, the sensor I needed is the one on top of the main pentaprism with a small angular mirror - a prism and about 8 contacts on the loop, or the one below under the Main pentaprism with a large loop of 20 contacts with about a rather large mirror of which only a little is visible?
the exposure meter matrix is located on top of the pentaprism, closer to the JVI, and at the bottom of the pentaprism is an LCD that displays camera parameters in the JVI.
Well, yes, the problem came up recently, I just cleaned the filter before it, today I turned it over, I thought maybe it’s not right, it’s like the norm, but the weather is cloudy and it’s not lying, the only gray tones are a little blue, but judging by the pictures from the Internet, something like this should be
I didn’t understand you right away, morning)) There’s probably no rubbish just over petaprism in a small matrix, because I didn’t climb there and did not twist anything, but it was glued there to the prismatic hike so that the garbage could get there, I’ll watch the test shots after lunch I’m shooting, from this I’ll dance
Well, yes it is necessary to check the loops and the general board from the bottom, there is a suspicion that something could have suffered there, but I did not change it during the repair, but I can throw a donor donation
Well, another problem with exposure may be associated with a non-native focusing screen. or with its strong pollution.
in this case everything is set up as it should
it’s kind of like the situation improved, though the weather is cloudy, but the BB is in place by the camera, considering that the 21-zone sensor is not worth it to require supernatural and it’s possible that it was just a problem due to bad light, I think tomorrow if I can sunny I can check and the exposition lies mainly with the YN50 f / 1.4, maybe the problem is in the lens, especially since they already released earlier firmware, where the description stated that it eliminates this problem
the fact that the exposure is wrong with the Chinese is not strange. no need to buy this at all. It's easy to check - there should be no errors at all on an open hole.
135 f / 2L
Helios 44P from the camera redone start
In general, gentlemen, I carefully examined the issue and sorted out the problem and, in general, there is such a spare part for 2700r for replacing the motherboard in Moscow, given that it will not be expensive to change it, a characteristic parasitic structure is visible in the images and no manipulations helped to solve this, on images taken before the camera was repaired, when there was another motherboard, then there were no jambs with the image, but unfortunately the board left us partially and normally doesn’t work anymore, so the donor was installed and from the camera where the matrix died, which took away the matrix controller board and the motherboard because of this, and a defect appeared in the form of stripes in the image, some filters might be damaged or a problem with the buffer memory, unfortunately I do not have a thermal imager and a soldering station to check, by the way, if you also install a matrix controller from that kit, then the problem with the bands increases, there is a working board from 1D mark II, but another firmware is uploaded there, so the board does not want to work, and again the soldering station and programmer A further experiments, so waiting for the end of the month, I'll be able to get spare parts and change around May 20-22, at the end unsubscribe what happened. Many people write that tuning is required after replacing parts with special equipment, and, in fact, this is not the first time I have been repairing cameras, although I am not a professional master, but after replacing the boards, there have never been problems, apart from broken and hot pixels, but In fact, they are also on new cameras, and in practice do not interfere with the use of
Not a camera, but some kind of Frankestein comes out. As for the settings - this is not fiction. All unofficial services do repairs in this way - they simply change parts (and, for the most part, were used from other inoperative, disassembled cameras) and do not configure anything. After such a repair, the camera may well be operational, but it does not meet various parameters, according to quality standards.
No, well, that’s understandable, but I don’t get fat, the main thing is that the picture returns to normal, I called this service there in quantity, there are 2 pieces of motherboards there are still other parts, I’ll go to pick up and see what else is there, for example, I I would buy a spare DC-DC board prozapas considering the availability of prices and over-prices on E-Bay
everything is just like that. there are a dozen, if not more, settings you need to make (more precisely - too lazy to run the software and watch). when changing the board, there will be errors with the exposure metering, WB, working out short exposures, synchronization with the flash, gamma correction of the data from the matrix, and the AF will also not understand how to work. if you have software and a more or less live native board, you can save all the settings from it to a file, and then overwrite them on a new board.
If there are such problems, you can help, though I’m in Moscow, and I don’t know where you live
a burned-out board gives signs of life, but the picture gives out such
картинка
I am in Moscow, but I worked at the Nikon service center. In any case, at least Canon, at least something else, is very expensive to assemble the entire set of equipment for repair. And in the official service, repairing your camera will be more expensive than a new one.
Transferring settings data from one board to another will be neither difficult nor expensive. Of course, if there are adequate staff. and if this is the ASC, which has all the software.
or maybe you just need to rearrange the USB flash drive from one board to another and you don’t need to look for software, there’s a small BGA chip that you can throw a couple of trifles with a hairdryer
they already hike and do not repair
I somehow changed the motherboard in 6D after the replacement, I did not feel any difference at all, as I did not try to find
Settings are stored NOT ONLY in the USB flash drive.
It’s clear, but so far I have come to the conclusion that it is the artifacts caused by the affected components in the image, because when I changed the matrix and its motherboard but left the amplifier board from the dead matrix, these artifacts were also there, so still I think replacing the motherboard will help me get rid of artifacts in the form of stripes, and the rest is not so important
Better to take the second nickle, as for me. The sensor is newer and better, less weight. All these deferambs are 90% too much for me) As soon as you start working competently in Lightroom with raw, even the photos from my old Panas G5, I’m sure few will distinguish with good optics from the same 1Ds Mark II
"Units", among other things, are specially designed to obtain the correct color in general and skin tone in particular IMMEDIATELY in JPEG, because one of their purposes is journalism, and there it is not customary to use RAW in principle and, often, it is inadmissible to process photos at all that is, they should be printed as they were. In general, criticism of “units” often comes from those who have never shot them :) But almost everyone who has used such cameras for at least a day or two finds it difficult to return to “ordinary” ones, because, despite the peculiar ergonomics, this is the most convenient and reliable cameras of all existing ones. "Units" from Nikon are very similar both in sensations and in quality / reliability / ergonomics. Well, heavy weight is a bit of a strange argument against PROFESSIONAL and weatherproof cameras. With class 80-200 2.8 optics, the weight balance is perfect. The camera sits in the hand like a glove. Moreover, the convenience of shooting with the vertical position of the camera is no less than with the horizontal one. That is why all my "regular" cameras are equipped with original battery grips, it is difficult to overestimate the convenience that they provide.
Regarding the “photo from my old Panas G5”. If you print a photo from both cameras with a size of, say, 90x60 cm, then the difference in picture quality will be noticeable to any inexperienced viewer :) However, this difference can also be noticed on a good monitor. At the same time, no one says that this Panasonic is a bad camera. Not at all, it just has a different purpose.
I have been shooting on 5d5 for 2 years and the picture is not bad, but the nature of the noise and no autofoux and ergonomics, even with the handle is not at all the same - no thanks!
Mikra is definitely not about a photo, I took olik 1 mark2 from a friend for a sample, that is still garbage in comparison with Canon 1d mark iv
Of course.
Miracles do not happen.
Even with an old full-frame camera from 2005, the photo looks cleaner, nicer and more natural than with the latest micros.
Physics, nothing personal :-)
Yesterday I walked around VDNKh with a film EOS 3 with a bat.blok. The feeling from the controls and from the camera itself is like from 1DS mk2.
The battery pack is already on 8 （!） Finger batteries. As a result, the camera seems even heavier than the 1DS mk2.
The shutter sound is similar - sibilant clanging.
If you don’t take off too often, then buying 8 batteries makes no sense (unless of course they are already available), it’s easier to get by with the batteries. More weight is probably a plus in terms of stabilization. Last year, I decided to shoot with my old Zenith. The clanking sound was so unusual! In general, I noticed that when you shoot for a long time with one DSLR and pick up another one, even within the same brand, you begin to listen and there is a feeling of a malfunctioning mechanism, since each camera has its own sound and vibration.
Dmitry, I wanted to ask if you know Kostin Vladimir Ivanovich?
No, not known.
Who can tell? Autofocus illumination in the viewfinder does not work. And the scale on the right is also not highlighted (only one arrow at the bottom of the scale). canon 1ds markii.
What to tell? This is a malfunction. There is Alexei, who has become adept at the repairs of the Kenons. Maybe share the experience.
Yes, in principle, I can disassemble, assemble, solder. To know where it is, and what to change.
Most likely, there is a malfunction in the LCD display of the focusing screen or its backlight. If you have never disassembled the camera, then there is a high probability of something breaking, or the camera will need a mandatory setting after disassembly and assembly. I do not have a service instruction, I found only a list of spare parts (https://elektrotanya.com/canon_eos-1ds_mark_ii_parts.pdf/download.html#dl) Possible faulty details I highlighted in red:
And so:
Thank. And then I can not find repair materials at all. I disassembled, checked the fastening of the loops, etc. Now the screen is highlighted, but with half-pressing and focusing, all points flash. It does not turn out that one central is highlighted. And when choosing, the selection of points is not visible. On the right, the scale does not highlight at all. I will analyze again I will check the details that you showed.
In the daytime, the camera pleases with fast and accurate focusing - so far I tested it with two non-native lenses Tokina ATX Pro 28-70 / 2.6-2.8 and Sigma 24-70 / 2.8 EX DG Macro.
The focus got where I wanted.
The DD is narrow and in the camera’s instructions honestly recommend underexposure (and obviously then pull it out, well, ok, although unusual). The ergonomics of the controls are similar to the EOS 3 film and units.
The colors from the standard color profile are very pleasant, while I cannot formulate an opinion, I can say that “the eye is resting” - there is nothing annoying.
I'm glad I could help with the choice! More interesting reviews coming soon!
People, don't buy these dinosaurs! No matter how outbid would tell you about the unique color and plasticity of the picture. In addition to problems with the brakes of the shutter curtains in 1ds 2, which caused the curtains to tear, these super-expensive cameras had other defects at the time of release, including those with electronics boards. as it happened with 1ds mark 3. So it is unrealistic to buy spare parts for these devices, even when ordering from other countries. Customize and flash all the more. Think with your own head when you are offered this old thing at the price of a new 5d. Just understand that if a breakdown occurs more complicated than a mechanical one, you will never repair it!
(shrugs) What's the problem with configuring everything programmatically? the service software is launched and forth.
1. You are mixing different entities. The presence / absence of spare parts does not make the camera itself worse / better. As long as the camera is in good working order, you can use it with pleasure.
2. This model does not have any typical problems with mechanics or electronics.
3. If a serious breakdown occurs, it may be difficult or impractical to repair. However, with amateur use, the chances are high that the camera will get bored before problems really arise with it.
4. To reduce the risks when buying, you need to fully check the operability, as well as assess the condition of the camera by its appearance. The shutter “run” can be viewed on free online camera jpg services.
5. If you need to replace the battery, non-original ones are still sold, but fully compatible with the camera and its charger.
6. Unofficial statistics show that these are quite tenacious cameras: https://olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos1dsmkii.htm
7. Nobody forces you to buy. The choice of technology is now very large. Old cameras are interesting in their own way for those who want to personally experience their use. Much older cameras are still sold and used. If you are not an enthusiast, it is not entirely clear why you specifically need this model. It's probably best to buy something more suitable for you (more modern).
Everything in general is so, with the exception of one thing - you will NEVER know how soon your copy can break down, but it can happen at any time, regardless of the state of appearance and statistics of shutter breakdowns, so information about the lack of spare parts for these models is very cognitive.
there have been no official deliveries of spare parts for these cameras for a long time, it's true. but, if desired, it is still possible to find them, unlike spare parts for some old amateur soap dishes. and, as noted, there are no software problems at all - everything is configured without problems and the FLASH firmware, if damaged, can also be restored.
please tell me, or give a real link to the latest firmware canon 1ds mk2.
I have SDHC, neither 4GB, nor others. Do not work on it. CF no. The camera sees the card, but cannot format it. Writes replace the card. What I just didn’t do. And reduced the size to 1GB, etc. The only assumption is that the second SD slot does not work without CF
Without a card in the CF slot, the second SD slot remains fully functional, even switching in the menu is not required, without a CF card, pictures will be recorded on the remaining SD card. Regarding the SD themselves, 16GB SDHC works for sure. I personally checked everything before writing this comment. What the problem is in your case is difficult to say.