Two next little tricks.
A few tricks
Trick with flash
I often shoot all kinds of reports using external flash. Typically, a report is shot using a 24-70 / 2.8 class lens (if shooting with a full-frame camera), and using a 17-55 / 2.8 class lens (if the camera is cropped at hand).
During rotation of the zoom ring of the lens, the zoom is simultaneously adjusted and external flash... The flash zoom adjustment is quite noisy. Many external flash units produce a fairly loud 'growl' sound. Sometimes this sound starts to annoy, and sometimes even distracts and interferes with comfortable work. It is very easy to get rid of it. The flash menu is enough disable automatic zoom adjustment for the focal length of the lens and select the approximate average. So, for the 17-55 / 2.8 lens, I choose the flash zoom value of 35 mm, (17 + 55) / 2 = 36. For a 24-70 / 2.8 lens, I choose a flash zoom of 50 mm, (24 + 70) / 2 = 47.
In the vast majority of situations, there will be no noticeable difference in the lighting of the scene.
A few more points:
- so you can cunning with any other lens that has a small spread of focal lengths (approximately three times the zoom)
- trick works with any position of the flash head
- Zoom adjustment on modern flash automatically turns off when a diffuser or built-in wide-angle diffuser is installed. With such attachments, the flash zoom goes to a minimum (usually 14 or 10 mm, depending on the type of flash)
- users who use manual flash with manual zoom can also use this trick and not adjust the zoom for each new scene
Battery trick
Many users buy an additional battery pack in order to extend the life of the camera without replacing the batteries. But for me personally, the battery pack is primarily important as a convenient solution when shooting with a portrait orientation of the camera.
During shooting with a landscape orientation of the camera, the elbow of the right hand is pointing down, does not stick out, and the hands are not so tired. During shooting with a portrait (vertical) orientation of the camera, the elbow sticks out, and it is not very convenient to hold the camera itself. When you have to shoot in an uncomfortable position for a long time during the day, the lack of a vertical handle on the camera makes itself felt.
So, the trick is that battery pack for more convenient shootingrather than to increase the number of frames on a single battery charge.
Very often, the battery pack is synonymous with the words booster, battery grip, battery, extension cord, etc. Almost always, with very few exceptions, these words mean the same thing.
- almost all battery packs have duplicate shutter buttons and many controls. During turning the camera from landscape to portrait orientation, the right hand actually remains in place. It is very comfortable. In close shooting conditions, when pressed against a wall or clamped by a crowd, this is a real panacea.
- portrait orientation is important not only for portraits, it has many not obvious advantages and if you learn to use them, you can get better material at the output
- in TOP cameras, the handle for shooting in a vertical position is already built into the camera. Such cameras have a square combo body
- often the battery pack does not at all fulfill its function of extending the life of the camera. For example, for many cameras, the battery pack allows you to use only one main battery from the camera, and the life time of the camera from one charge does not change. But such a unit allows you to get that treasured convenience
- the battery pack sometimes allows for a much better weight distribution of the lens / camera bundle, allows for more comfortable handling of some heavy lenses on light amateur cameras
- the battery pack can add solidity to amateur cameras, sometimes it’s an easy psychological technique to stand out from other amateur photographers (I do not recommend doing this)
Other tricks here.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Yes, on the neck with a booster it is convenient to hold even with the same 17-55, the lens does not bite.
And one more plus of the batblock is the ability to use conventional AA batteries. It helped me a couple of times when the GPS quickly dropped the battery during a tourist trip.
Butblock is an excellent image stabilizer)
It’s bad that in navigation you can’t go to the list of all the tricks in one click. It seems that we are already in the section .. :) Thank you!
Added a link, thanks.
It’s very convenient for me to change the batteries on the report. I pull it out of the batlock and throw it in my bag, in return I poke a new one. And this whole operation is done almost blindly, I can take a shot at any time using the camera battery. Taking a moment, I connect the removed battery to the paverbank in the charging bag. Thus, these three batteries are virtually endless.
And most importantly - a damn convenient portrait mode. On many cameras not “pro” level there is no “nipple” for selecting a focus point. As a rule, the selector is placed somewhere down on the multifunction wheel. This limitation of ergonomics, introduced by the manufacturer, is very annoying and you just can't get enough of the "papilla" on the booster. Lord, why…. why don't I have a "papilla" on the camera !!!!!
Another very important parameter of the battery pack is ergonomics. When you take a few shots, you don't notice it. When you shoot a lot and for a long time, the dimensions of the camera affect. As a rule, the pinky and ring finger go beyond the dimensions. The battery pack is so hand-friendly that once you try it, you won't come off. Bought for my D90 as well as F65. For the F65, I killed two birds with one stone - ergonomics and got rid of expensive and rare CR2 batteries, switching to regular finger-type batteries (you can use batteries instead). Also, the extra weight of the battery grip improves stabilization, which reduces vibration when shooting. Another trick of mine - I put rubber eyecups on both cameras (a set of three Nikon accessories). As a result, the nose does not rest on the display and there is less exposure through the viewfinder (the exposure sensor receives light both through the lens and through the viewfinder).
As for stabilization, everything is correct, and this is a very important point, especially for lenses without built-in stabilization. For example, my Tokina 100 macro on the D700 allowed me to shoot about 1/80 shutter speed or shorter, but on D3s I can shoot 1/60 without grease, and sometimes even 1/50 if you strain or lean against anything Something. The difference is small, but still it is.
on the D700, only 1 Akum is placed in the additional handle, and therefore I use it just for convenience. Hands do not get tired, much more convenient and enjoyable. I do not use flash
Heh :) I never had a buttlock (I'm so an amateur); but in portrait orientation he always held the camera, turning not to the left (against the clock hands), but to the right (clockwise). Then the elbows do not stick out anywhere ... Am I a pervert?
I also kept film like that.
Regarding "solidity" ... Nikon 800 series cameras with a butt block are huge. There are considerably more “ones”.
Persuaded! Went to look for the battery pack :)
From just today came the block, just a few shots (like something and something) in portrait orientation is a convenience bomb (but unfortunately, the Chinese do not block the block)
I have Chinese, everything works
Booster is an accelerator, on some cameras it increases the number of frames per second, hence the name. One could juggle words and say that it increases the battery, but in this case boost is not used.
By the way, an interesting point: on many Chinese butts. blocks (tested on D7000, D600), the battery in the handle disconnected from the carcass is discharged. At the same time, this effect was not noticed on the original Nikon pen.
Not only for these cameras, but also for many others, Chinese boosters discharge Akum, it does not matter if the booster is removed from the camera or installed.
One trifle haunts me.
The bottom line is:
In some rooms, when shooting with a TTL flash (that meike, that sb900, d7000, d800 cameras) the auto-white balance noticeably yellow (all the muzzle are brick-icteric). Even if the flash is set to M.
With a manual flash, one-contact, (like yongnuo) - the BB is ideal. The same result, if you isolate additional contacts on a TTL flash, leaving only the central one (auto-white balance becomes good, but the flash becomes completely manual).
Does the smart flash lock its white balance? No, it remains a car, just with a bias towards "yellowness". I thought that my flashes or camera are not the same, but the same thing happens on Canon (600d, 650d, 580ex, 430exII).
There is probably no special catastrophe in this, nothing prevents you from setting the desired BB yourself, and in raw everything is easily corrected, but sometimes it is still annoying.
What to do?
Either reconcile, or set the BB yourself, or conversion filters) Yes, if the camera sees the flash, it automatically changes the BB to the flash light, and some very smart (sb900) still transmit color changes when the filters are installed on the flash.
Are there flashes (or cameras) where you can somehow influence it (through the menu, for example)?
No, I haven't heard, at least. You can adjust the bb “flash” to suit your wishes and set it accordingly when shooting.