Photo tricks. Polarizing filter and OVI

Previously, I never found information on this issue, and therefore the feature mentioned here may be subjective.

Polar shot

Polar image (circular / circular polarizing filter) HOYA 58mm PL-CIR) In this case, Polarik helped to remove excess sun glare in the blur zone, to make the colors deeper and cleaner, in particular, he made it possible to darken the sky as much as possible, preventing its departure to the overexposure region.

When shooting with different mirror photographic equipment, I noticed that working with a polarizing filter and various JVI it’s very difficult, it’s very simple. After analyzing, I came to the conclusion that to capture the image change in the optical viewfinder easiest on pentaprism cameras.

When working with the same polarizing filter on different cameras, the difference was simply enormous. On cameras equipped with penta mirror, It’s very, very difficult to capture the desired angle of rotation of the polarizer ring. This is partly due to JVI and the type of focusing screen, but most of all with the brightness of the image that creates JVI. It is very difficult to work on such cameras with a polarizing filter without good lighting. The situation may be aggravated by the use of lenses with low aperture.

But the easiest way to catch the desired angle of rotation of the polarizer ring with full-frame SLR cameras, and the more JVI - all the better. On such cameras, you can immediately clearly see how much the entire scene being shot changes from the rotation of the polarizer ring.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Please, if this material was useful to you, help my project. And don't forget that everyone can write your review for one or another photographic equipment.

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Comments: 31, on the topic: Photo tricks. Polarizing filter and OVI

  • Vladimir

    Cap ... I give a standing ovation. :)))
    For the use of a pentamirror, manufacturers need to be referred to boilers with resin ...

  • Ivan

    Hmm ... mabut nice to your article))) And you couldn’t have zrobiti oglyad - “to the type of short vibration in the middle of polarized filters up to 2000 UAH”? I think the bulob is tsikavo.

    • anonym

      As a rule, the more expensive the better. also look at the material (glass) of the filter, frame, and light loss. An important point is how easy the filter is to clean. the filter test has been hanging on the network for a long time, like on lenstip.
      IMHO, the optimal price and quality is B + W.

      • Valentine

        Everything is true, but experience shows that there are many cheap polarics that give a good result. I had both Marumi and Chinese ... In general, if your optics are not at all top-end, and you shoot at the usual amateur level, then you will not lose anything special from purchasing a cheaper (but proven) polar lens.

        • anonym

          fit but not identical. Unfortunately, a high-quality photo is made up of just the little things. not very high-quality glass or even plastic gives a different spectrum, glare, can even cut detail / resolution. greatly reduce the flow of light. no protective cover - the filter is easily scratched and / or dust / stains are difficult to remove. cheap frames stick to the lens, etc.
          although if the requirements are not high in advance, any filter will do. even the cheapest.

      • Ivan

        Anton dyakoy for the joy, I will probuvat. For Denmark, I use Marumi s Praktika (Praktika Mene Roscharuvav)

        • anonym

          from personal experience, the original Marumi are not bad, solid middles. the market is really littered with fakes, well, very similar to the originals.
          I personally didn’t really like the Marumi ring, anti-reflective coating (its quality), and unevenness in the frame. switched to B + W Slim KSM C-POL, a little more expensive but all the disadvantages above are completely absent.

  • Denis

    But can’t you just place the label on the polarizer opposite the sun?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Of course not. Only in very rare cases can a label help, but rather, it is an exception.
      In general, a polarik is a game of choosing the effect you need. You can relax it, look for the optimal one, it is an unforgettable adventure when you understand how it works.

    • Vitaly N

      No. After all, his task is not necessarily to remove glare from horizontal surfaces. The same landscape can be made different. Make the same clouds invisible, or vice versa thicken to clouds.

  • Vladimir Zybin

    I completely agree with you, Arkady! I shoot on a Nikon D90 camera, in sunny and bright weather I will definitely use the MARUMI MS CP.L polarizing filter. The mark on the filter does not help much. It shows only the relative position of the polarization grating (grid) of the filter. Long-term use of PF showed that the greatest effect occurs when the axis (direction) of the lens is perpendicular to the rays of the sun. PF rotation only reduces (changes) the filter effect. Accordingly, the effect changes from the angle (camera rotation) to the sun's rays. Very entertaining process of shooting with PF. Amazing results are obtained with a blue sky and well-lit clouds. And even more if a clean water surface or any surface reflecting light (glass, mirror, etc.) appears in the frame. It all depends on the shooting angle and rotation of the polarizing filter. And as you rightly said, this is a game of selecting the effect that is needed.
    image

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Thank you :) In general, a polarik is a godsend for a photographer in autumn.

  • Alexey

    Thank you, useful information and another reason for the photographer to get a full frame.

  • B. R. P.

    Very interesting observation, thanks. A rowan, an hour, not on Yong removed?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, to Yong. Gallery here.

  • Andrei

    101% correct. It was noticed by me for a long time. The same goes for high magnification macro. Cameras with a pentamirror are conditionally suitable. An adequate crop viewfinder was obtained only with the Nikon D2H. And for any polarizing and effect filters - only a full frame.

  • Jury

    also add an autumn photo with a polar DSC-1811-1

  • Eugene

    I recently bought a filter, and on the street I was faced with the fact that the efficiency of its operation in different positions is not very clearly visible. I calibrated the maximum and minimum positions by viewing in the camera viewfinder how the image changes when the filter is turned when the lens is pointed at the LCD screen. I made the appropriate marks on the filter with a marker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG8rULu4uvE

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Here is just the slightest movement of the camera from side to side, a little bit here and there and the PF needs to be adjusted :). The world around us is not a static computer monitor.

      • Eugene

        I agree. The video, by the way, is not mine - after watching such an idea came

  • Valentine

    And there is. There are no problems in a large and light JVI. In dark and small it is already more difficult. You can hardly do anything on an LCD screen with a polaric. I use the Polarik for two purposes: actually, as a polaric, and also in some cases instead of a neutral filter, when the shutter speed and iso are at the limit, it is not desirable to cover the aperture, and the light flux must be reduced. About tags is a useless exercise. You need to catch the right angle, so in real conditions, you need to adjust according to the picture that you see with your eyes.

  • Dmitriy

    Thanks! very necessary information!

  • Eugene

    I would also like to know - why, when photographing with a filter, even if the photo is clearly underexposed, does Photoshop change practically nothing in automatic mode?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Most likely this is due to the fact that auto levels (CTRL + L) begin work by setting the black point. And the black point is already at the minimum value on such images (there are already completely dark objects of the image).

  • Alexander

    Good day to you, dear Arkady, and all!
    Could someone advise a quality working polar from low-cost brands?
    I got it recently on the occasion of Fujimi HD, but apart from dark vignetting at a long focus, I don't see any visible effects from it, no matter how I twist it. ))
    Thank you in advance!

    • Pokemon

      Hoya

      • Pokemon

        Fujimi and Flama are terrible stuff.

        • Alexander

          Yes, I already understood that. )
          Thank you! That is why he asked - to know for the future. And now DigiCare got to me, the seller praises it, but I would not like to “get” again. )

  • Sergei

    A pentamirror is an inevitable drawback if you have an ordinary digital SLR without claims to the Pro level.
    The main drawback is its small size and very weak magnification of the image in the viewfinder. The company believes that the viewfinder on this class of equipment is needed only for framing, and the amateur does not need to focus on the sharpness and consider the features of the image.
    The only antidote to a pentamirror is the eyepiece magnifier. Better multiplicity 1,4 - 1,6.
    It allows you to focus and work with the polarizer much more accurately.
    People's China and Aliexpress to help you.
    It helped me a lot ...
    The pentamirror also has an advantage - a significant simplification of the design.

  • V.Matveev

    A little trick from personal experience: in order to evaluate the optical quality of a polarizing filter, and indeed any other color filter, it is enough to look through it through a telescope or binoculars (naturally, by attaching it to the lens of the tube and not to the eyepiece! :). And the higher the multiplicity (and quality) of the pipe, the more the flaws in the manufacture of the filter are striking. Of the light filters, it is most often inexpensive polarics that blur the picture, probably due to their design features.

    • Roman

      An inexpensive polarik is a waste of money. There, even without a drop in sharpness, the key problem is stupid color rendition. It's easier to take a couple of common sizes - 77 and 58 mm as a base, for example (well, or for your lenses) and a set of adapter rings. Well, or even just 77 mm - widths and universal zooms most often have a diameter of exactly 77 mm, well, maybe 72-67 more.

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