According provided by Sony a6300 camera (Sony ILCE-6300) many thanks to the official representative of Sony in Ukraine.
Sony a6300
Sony a6300 was introduced in February 2016, and after 8 months, in November 2016 was supplemented by a model Sony a6500. In general, the Sony a6300 has become a replacement for Sony a6000released in February 2014. Outwardly, all these cameras look like two drops of water.
I do not want to retell a hundred pages of instructions for the Sony a6300, the main properties are beautifully described on the official pages Sony.ru, Sony.ua, sony.com.
The key features in this model are the new focusing system and 4K video support. All in all, this is a good, very functional camera that I liked. I believe that the Sony a6300 model has been modified to Sony a6500, the latter became just the perfect camera, expressing the full power of the cropped mirrorless.
Focusing
The camera was announced at the time of its launch that it has '... the world's fastest * autofocus (0,05 seconds *) with the world's largest * number of phase-detection AF points (425 * points) helps to achieve exceptional levels of photography ...'
Many have been excited by the news that the Sony a6300 mirrorless '4D Focus' system now focuses faster and better than DSLRs. And 425 phase focus points terrified Nikon owners D500 and Nikon D5 (which only have 153 phase points). However, the small print under the asterisk indicates that this autofocus is only 'the fastest in the world among interchangeable-lens digital cameras based on Sony research as of February 2016. Measured per CIPA standard and internally using a lens E PZ 16–50 mm F3.5-5.6 OSS and viewfinder with pre-focus off. '
The good news is that the camera really focuses very, very quickly with the simplest kit lens. Also, the good news is that when the pre-focus function is on, the camera focuses even faster (in fact, it is always in focus on the subject). It's also great that the coverage of the focus points is great.
The bad news is that focusing speed, its accuracy and tenacity very much depend on other factors:
- lens used. If with E PZ 16–50 mm F3.5-5.6 OSS everything is clear - there, tiny lenses are shifted to a super-tiny distance during focusing, which allows you to focus very quickly, then with other lenses the speed will strongly rest on the mechanics of the lens itself. It is enough to install on Sony a6300 using the original adapter Sony LA-EA4 old screwdriver lens - and all praises about speed will dissipate.
- lighting conditions. Unfortunately, in poor lighting, focusing is primarily due to brakes EVIis extremely uncomfortable, slow and, in general, inferior to SLR cameras. If there is no problem with room lighting with focusing, shooting with a very weak pilot light turns into hell.
- from work algorithms. Unfortunately, I used the Sony a6300 only with a lens E PZ 16–50 mm F3.5-5.6 OSS, with whom there were incomprehensible situations - during focusing in difficult conditions in EVI or on the main display of the camera, I clearly saw the complete defocus of the image and the camera’s very slow attempts to restore accurate autofocus. But while the shutter was released, the camera instantly took a sharp, properly focused shot. On the one hand, a statement about 0,05 seconds is true, on the other hand, such an incomprehensible algorithm of work introduces a certain discomfort into the shooting process.
Have mirrorless cameras beat conventional DSLRs in terms of focusing quality? Of course not. SLR cameras still have a much lower sensitivity threshold for focus sensors, down to about '-4 E.V', which allows you to shoot in very, very poor lighting. The a6300's sensitivity is only -1 to 20 EV.
For real serious work, TOP SLRs are much preferable. But I want to note separately that advanced mirrorless cameras such as the Sony a6300 have already caught up with amateur SLR cameras and some advanced amateur SLR cameras as focus.
Image quality
The first crop cameras with an APS-C sensor to have 24MP on board are Sony NEX-7 и Sony SLT-A65submitted on 24.08.2011. 6 years have passed since then, but not a single cropped camera has been able to overcome this psychological threshold (in the comments they suggested that one could - Samsung NX1) It's no secret that Sony supplies matrices for some Nikon cameras and Pentax. In creating sensors, Sony is a very strong player.
Image quality is similar to modern twenty-four megapixel cameras, for example, Nikon D7200. The ISO range from 100 to 51.200 seems very attractive, but after ISO 3200 in the on-camera JPEG, it is very noticeable that the details of the image are eaten by the noise reduction function. At ISO 25.600-51.200, noise reduction is very aggressive, images in this range can only be watched with tears in their eyes.
Unfortunately, unlike the new full-format models of the 7th series, the Sony a6300 still has no way to receive uncompressed RAW source files (the camera uses the RAW format with 14-bit color depth and strong compression).
Sample Photos
Examples of photos from this camera can be viewed (and / or download their source) on different lenses:
- Sony E 3.5-5.6 / PZ 16-50 OSS Optical Steady Shot Power Zoom (Sony SELP1650)
- Super-Takumar 1: 2 / 55 Asahi Opt. Co.
- I96U-3.5 / 50
- I50U-1 3,5 / 50
- MSO USSR SSD UPP-1 ★ KHARKIV ★ F-7 CM ★ (this is the real name of the lens, not a joke)
- Vega-5u 4/105 MMZ
- Vega-5U 4/105 AOMZ
Sony a6300, next shown Sony E 3.5-5.6 / PZ 16-50 OSS Optical Steady Shot Power Zoom (Sony SELP1650) lens
My experience
Sony a6300 is not a cheap device, for its cost you can buy a full-frame Sony A7 camera. At the same time, if compactness is not important, the presence of a better focusing system and 4K video, I would strongly advise you to look towards the Sony a7. In general, I single out the much better image of the Sony a7, primarily due to the better performance at high ISOs.
The Sony a6300 itself is a good camera with a wide range of functions. This is the first mirrorless camera with an APS-C sensor, which in my hands proved to be quite confident in terms of focusing (but I was not happy for long, see the review a6500).
Prices
Prices for the Sony a6300 BODY camera in popular online stores can look at this linkSony a6300 KIT at this linkor in the price block located below:
All prices on Sigma 70-300
In comments Can I ask you a question on the topic and you will answer, and you can also express your opinion or describe your experience. Many little things for a photo can be found on AliExpress.
Results
Instead of summarizing the Sony a6300, I suggest asking a specific question on the camera in the comments, I will try to answer it.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thank you for the review, is it worth switching from z.to. on a mirrorless camera, as for me the DSLR will be ahead for a long time ... the first
It is necessary to specifically determine the tasks and budgets.
For fans of full-length cameras, the question is most likely “should I change MY system to Sony E 'system.
If the question were not so generalized, I would try to answer better.
Watching which DSLR to leave, I left the D90 on the a6000 and there is no limit to my joy.
Two functions won me over as an amateur in bz cameras:
1 In the mirror you need to take test pictures and adjust the settings, in the BZK you change the settings and see the frame in real time.
2 focus picking, for me the rogue is just a godsend for shooting on old non-autofocus lenses. On the D90, it was hellish torment.
Frankly, I like the BZK, but nonetheless:
1. In a DSLR, you see the image that the lens “sees” - yes, without white balance, but with a certain skill it can be easily installed at will. I don't think this is the real advantage of the UPC;
2. All the time I came across arrogant remarks about the mysterious “focus of piking” from the “penetrated UPC”, which I can say from my own experience: focusing on the large screen of the UPC is quite convenient, but the colored dots (the same magic picking) in the field of sharpness are nothing special revelation does not bring. They are sometimes convenient, but personally to me it is already clear where the sharpness is. This (large screen) is often more convenient than focusing manually on, say, D200 without “live view” through the viewfinder, but if the device is new, then this advantage is lost - it all depends on the quality of the camera screen.
I think that the real advantages when shooting with old lenses are: flange distance - no need to use an adapter with a lens, exposure metering without the need to chip the lens.
1. In EVI BZK the same, only better; You see the image with all corrections, and without cropping the frame. Moreover, in modern EVI there is no noticeable delay; one minus - in single frame-by-frame shooting, the viewfinder is obscured for some time, which interferes with dynamic scenes. In SLR this is almost nonexistent.
2. Work with manual optics in the BZK is organized much more convenient. This is an increase in the focus area, focus picking, imitation of a range finder (in Fuji). In mirrors (Nikon), even confirmation of focusing with a “green dot” does not guarantee that it will be in focus (depending on the lens).
Well, modern DSLRs have a "live picture" mode and there you can enlarge part of the frame, but you can look at a possible frame through the viewfinder without including all the electronics, but the DSLR is larger. There are no special advantages here, but there is a set of advantages and corresponding disadvantages.
let me simplify your post:
1. saw, did not understand, there were no shooting situations with such conditions
2. Failed to pick,
3. old lenses, which REALLY make sense to use on them - are close in cost to the prices of the mirrorless cameras themselves. All these gelics, industrialists and so on - you can throw it away and forget. Leica, top 85 Nikon, Olympus 1,4 and others like them - yes.
And should I throw this one out too? How will the esteemed photo expert and reader of my thoughts order me?
Aha
And I think that it’s better just not to pay attention to your torments. This is my opinion.
what a horror!
And here’s what killed me in the BZK: the moronic maaaalenky case, accordingly it’s inconvenient to hold in your hands, accordingly there is not enough space (inconvenient location) for the buttons, respectively, the necessary functions are hidden in the menu (and Sonya’s such a nightmare). Oh yeah, in the maaaalenky case, the maaaalenky batteries get in, which die from the electronics instantly.
Don’t even remind about the gain in size. You catch the lens (and the booster!) And you can’t put the camera in your pocket :)
To increase the grip for an additional fee, all sorts of camera expanders are purchased :)
Although Sonya still has something to grab for, but Fuji has trouble with this ...
and nefig for Sonya grab. )))
There are also a bunch of features for shooting with manual optics, for example, you set the aperture priority mode and the camera itself sets the shutter speed and ISO. On Nikon, only older cameras can do this + the absence of any back and front focuses ...
Cameras with a stub on the matrix allow you to set the focal length in the menu for manuals, which allows you to very effectively increase the level of stabilization. For different focal stubs, it works differently. Also, allows you to identify the lens by EXIF.
Nikon. They remembered about a disabled person :)
Kenon, for example, also knows how :)
Since you're talking about manual lenses, what does back / front focus have to do with it? If you have a back / front focus on your manuals, then the answer is simple - you personally do a focus marriage with pens :)
depends on tasks and goals.
But I will say right away that it will not work.
And yet, at such a price, videographers can take Panas GH 5. For a photo, 9 cross-shaped points are enough for me, and a lot of good auto focus lenses ...
Videos and videographers are a separate topic.
..that actually can’t GH5 30% more expensive at least
Horse price for crop. I don’t understand at all
price has long been not determined crop / ff.
In my opinion, marketers have learned to inhale crop at horse prices. The Fujics have at least a hipster design. And here what is the price for?
Do you know a joke about Sony toilet bowls that are compatible only with the Sony interface and if the ass supports PS4?
that's why myself. Because this is Aunt Sonya.
and because 24 megapixels and video.
You haven’t seen glass prices yet. )))
Plus! And not only crop, but smaller in size.
SLR killer!
rather suicide SLR
You sing well ...
chromatite in the background!
And who did he kill?
Played with the BZK a couple of months and returned back. JVI is no worthy alternative.
(So far there is no worthy alternative.) When approving, add IMHO.
You also need to add ...
And for me the camera is so absurd ... At such a cost (we have a whale version of 100 thousand rubles), it somehow does not impress with its capabilities. Yes, the fastest® autofocus * 4D FOCUS (under the most ideal conditions), but the new Olympus and Fuji are not far behind. 4K video, S-Log? and how many people need it? who shoots the video, they will take the proven Panasonic or the same Sony A7xx. There is no stub on the matrix (it appeared in the α6500), which is quite critical for video.
The α6500 looks noticeably better, but at a price of $ 1500 + there are other alternatives.
Uh-huh. Let's add to the advantages of the constant focusing function - constant twitching of the lens as if Sonya has Parkinson's disease, continuous buzzing and throwing when other objects accidentally fall into the focusing field, as well as a truly gargantuan appetite for a battery.
Recently, I was choosing where to leave my Nikon D80 - on the D7200 or buy a Fujifilm X-T10 - Sony also considered, but decided that if we were to put up with the shortcomings of the UPC, then let there be a bonus in the form of “proprietary” Fuji colors. Long time to choose. The choice was decided when I came to the store and held both in my hands.
Yes, if you believe the reviews, there is absolutely no point in buying DSLRs if you have mirrorless cameras. But. It is simply uncomfortable to hold the UPC in the hands of people with large hands, not to mention trying to adjust something there. EVI - in words, everything is cool, but in reality it looks a little strange, especially in low light. And then, this monstrous lag between pressing the shutter and the shot! Actually, the latter became an iron argument in favor of buying a DSLR. The bonus in this case was the absence of the need to change lenses and flash.
But, I would like to ask about something else :)
In a voluminous review of the D7200 on dpreview, it seems that the D7200 was reproached with the autofocus system, which _predicts_ where the focus should be, while the UPC take focus data _directly from the matrix_ (quotes are not accurate, perhaps about "focus from the matrix" was written somewhere in the comments or some other discussion) - and therefore focus better and miss less often.
Here, in the article, on the contrary, the opposite is stated that the BZK, due to its low sensitivity, focuses, on the contrary, worse. So where is the truth? :)
Most likely they messed up some concepts.
The sensitivity of the focus sensors directly depends on the physics of their implementation. The d7200 has a higher sensitivity, while the sensors can work with lenses darker than F / 5.6 but lighter than F / 8.
What relative holes the a6300 can work with is not specified. And if not specified, then, most likely, this is a standard set up to F / 5.6.
My opinion so far is that the large phase sensor module at the ZK (located at the bottom of the matrix, under the second mirror) is much more functional exactly than the tiny sensors built into the matrix (DUal-pixel is another story).
In my opinion, they discussed this problem from the point of view of the final result. As I wrote in a comment below, a SLR camera with a higher sensitivity of the sensors is more likely to give a back / front.
Oh, do not confuse sour with solid!
Back-front is a defect of specific objetive and not a shooting option
Well, you write below that the BZK cannot have back focus. What, are there any fundamentally special lenses for the BZK?
it's about the location of the sensors. if they are on the matrix, then there can be no backing or focus front. maybe just a bad focus
I'm a little confused.
Given that back focus is when the focus point is behind the subject and front focus is in front, what is “bad focus”?
This means I did not have time / could not focus due to the shooting conditions (insufficient sensitivity of the focusing system). And the back-front arises due to the fact that the focus sensors have their own separate optical system, which cannot be the same as the main one (in the sense of the matrix). Together with the floating working segment of the lens, this back-focus front focus is obtained. The sensors on the OPC are located on the matrix, therefore they use one optical system for focus and image.
Michael, thanks. The explanation of the different optical systems explains the benefits of focus in the OPC.
in the UPC, phase and non-phase sensors are located directly on the matrix body. Therefore, they have "confirmation of focus" well .. more or less absolutely, not counting any errors from movements and other things. those. focusing ends when the image EXACTLY ON the matrix becomes sharp.
At the CZK phase sensors are located on a separate "matrix" installed at an angle to the main and to the lens. mismatch of angles, signals and other, purely geometric or physical errors. and for the digital control center, focusing ends when confirmation is given not by the matrix, but by the “matrix of phase sensors”.
Since errors, especially in setting the lenses, under the same conditions (focal length, range) give an error in the same direction all the time, we can talk about the front / back focus of this lens, i.e. a camera standing on a tripod and filming the same object - will CONSTANTLY give back focus (or front focus) by about one magnitude.
those. this is the initial POSSIBLE error of the system, not a specific case.
(Of course, a PRECISELY and well-tuned SLR and a lens do not have one, but the fact is that a DSLR can be different, and the lens is not aligned, or has a BEC on the long end and the front on the short one)
....
the accuracy and quality of focusing is determined by the number of statistical misses (back, front and their various values) i.e. you take about a hundred frames of one object with constant refocusing before each shot, and the number of misses at the same time.
.........
in fact, if I take a lens on the CZK, I need to check it to see if it will give front-back focus on my camera, while (if it has a zoom) also on different focal lengths. At the same time, on the focal part it can consistently give a good percentage of "hits", and on the other - it can consistently back / front.
If I take the lens on the BZK, then it either falls (with some accuracy, depending on the number of frames, lighting conditions, movement of objects, shutter speed, etc.), or does not work. SOMETIMES, perhaps, I don’t know about such cases, it may not get stably, but then this is just a repair, such an objective is not working in fact.
Thanks for the explanation.
But I still do not understand this:
those. focusing ends when the image EXACTLY ON the matrix becomes sharp.
If this is the case, then how can blurry images be obtained on the BZK? Either only a limited amount of time is allocated for focusing and after its expiration the camera shoots as is.
1. Depth of field - the camera does not know at all where and what the photographer needs to focus on. Depth of field includes only parts of the frame in the field of focus. The camera may mistakenly think that the desired object is included in the zone. The photographer can expect something else.
2. Algorithms of work - the camera does not see the image, it sees only the indicators of the sensors, areas of increased contrast (which we consider to be sharpness). Algorithms live their own lives, their conclusions may not coincide with the conclusions of the photographer.
3. Difficult conditions: the far / near plan is noticeably more contrasted than the subject, as a result, the camera goes crazy and focuses on what is more contrast, what is more understandable for it
4. Million factors: the focuser works in there with a measuring system and indicators from the matrix. There is a cunning plexus of exposure, the recognition of the plot (faces for example) and focus. There are usually about 100.000 stories in the database, but there will always be 100.001 stories that the camera cannot handle
etc.
Arkady, thanks.
firstly, there are lags for the shutter release, lags for the shutter speed itself, and finally the banal error of the signal and the lens.
The bzk does not quite have an "advantage". She's just "a little bit stronger in accuracy." and then IN THEORY! and that is purely due to the fact that after the phase "run" the mirrorless "catches up with the accuracy" including the contrast focus.
It is because of this, by the way, that the tracker suffers from them - the camera simply does not have time, and they simply do not have the command to “increase speed at the expense of possible accuracy”.
in practice, if I need to choose a camera for a combination of accuracy / speed / quality / tracking, I prefer Nikon d500 / d5 / d5 than any, even super-duper cool bzk.
But in the case of evaluating all factors (prices, size, weight, other points) for specifically amateur tasks, the UPC has many advantages, including the fact that they are "close" to DSLRs in focusing.
Previously, the UPC clearly lost in this mirror.
I'm sure the D5 is a great camera :) That's just the price ...
But in the case of evaluating all factors (prices, size, weight, other moments) for specifically amateur tasks, the UPC has many advantages
Alas, for me, the advantages of the UPC ended when I felt a considerable lag between pressing the shutter button and, in fact, the picture. And so you are saying it right.
and most importantly - all this is THEORY. those. theoretical research of "pixel-cutters".
For 3,5 years of using the CZK with a variety of carcasses and lenses, the REAL (and not “oh, something is wrong, probably this is a terrible back-front) front-back focus problem, I managed to meet only once.
ONE DAY!
on the lens offered for sale there was a wild front focus, which was determined elementary by line. Actually, the lens was called a marriage and did not buy.
and all
Well, for example, my X-T10 doesn’t bother me with the shutter lag.
Although, for sports filming of the Olympians, the top Nikon is undoubtedly better.
But for street shooting - much worse.
The lag between switching on and receiving a frame from the "cold state" - yes, sometimes it makes you sad.
in the case of a camera already on, no more than the d700.
In the case of “the camera hangs in my hand, while I raise it to the eye - I turn it on, I press the release” - with the correct settings, there are also no special problems.
Yes, with my mind I understand that for a leisurely shooting this lag does not really matter. Here, rather, at the level of sensations.
in the case of the UPC, lag issues are STRONGLY determined by the model. The newer the better.
Well, the X-T10 did not please me at all.
Arkady, you were a little mistaken. Sensors on the matrix a priori can not give BF and FF. Regarding the article, the 4th crutch for autofocus a-mount lenses uses its phase-focusing system built into the crutch.
Tell me, if it's not a secret, why do you need to go somewhere with the d80 ?! I've been trying to buy it second-hand for the second month, but unfortunately it doesn’t come across. You will lose the beautiful garden of the second generation matrix, and in return you will get a very sad smos.
:)
There are several reasons for leaving the D80.
First and foremost, I desperately dislike the way the camera behaves in low light conditions. This is especially noticeable on trips, when it seems that you want to capture a good shot, but objectively it turns out better on a smartphone. Yes, I have a tripod, a remote control, but I don’t want to bother with this on trips, and there’s no way to do it.
The second reason - by the way, no less important than the first - may be the case with my particular specimen, but I absolutely do not like the autofocus system. He misses too often. Although, the service tested and said that everything is OK. I found some service programs with which you can manually adjust the carcass, maybe I'll do this someday. Took to Prague 35 1.8 - even cry upon arrival. On a small screen it is not immediately appreciated, but on the monitor you can see that there are big problems with focusing. I used to sin on the lens, but when the park has grown for many years, and the problem remains, apparently something with the carcass itself.
The third reason, just the D80 is already starting to get a little tired. I already changed the shutter controller (or what is this thing called there?), But periodically the camera stops responding to the control disks. It’s rather unpleasant to count on a camera on a trip to find out that something is not working in it.
The fourth reason is that I am tired of necessarily developing all RAW images. Yes, this is still a prerequisite for getting really high-quality pictures, but for a home album or just to share with family, I would still like to avoid the need for manual conversion. Because all this takes time and resources, which I have less and less. As a result - gigabytes of unparsed photos on the screw. Therefore, by the way, the D7200, not the D7100 - the former has better intra-camera JPEG.
The fifth reason - it is related to the fourth, by the way - is a simple mechanism for transferring images to a smartphone. Snapseed is a great help when you need to quickly correct and display a picture.
But I'm not going to sell the D80, I will leave my daughter. There is just time to pick up the lens and, perhaps, carry out the adjustment.
You have a defective d80. That's the number ... Thank you for sharing, after your bridge I changed my mind to take a boo mirror. By the way, I'm also thinking about d7200, but still I'm leaning towards d7100 with its excessively viscous equal from the Toshibov matrix. In 7200, as far as I know, the sensor is already produced by Sony and not Toshiba. The fact is that I saw a bunch of d80 and 35s with a friend, nothing cooler and sharper at aperture 5.6, I just never saw it in my life. You have a completely defective carcass ... I did not think that d80 has a marriage.
I suppose marriage happens everywhere. But with 5.6 at 35k, everything will also be fine with sharpness. And at infinity, so generally ringing clarity :) This, by the way, is my second copy of the D80. I handed the first one back to the store a couple of days after the purchase, because he was dumb and in general did not get into focus. So that first one was definitely defective, although the store did not recognize it. But the second one - I, probably, put it too emotionally :) But the autofocus module there is still rather weak, for my taste, and its weakness becomes noticeable on fast fixes. If you shoot with a closed aperture, it's not so bad.
As for the D7100 and D7200, I read a lot about these cameras, and I got the impression that no one really knows what kind of sensor in the D7200 will end up - different or the same, but in a different harness. I tend to be the same. Because a) in RAW the image is identical and stretches in exactly the same way, b) differences appear in the intra-camera JPEG - the D7200 here greatly benefits from the new processor.
In general, I somehow became far from all these technical characteristics and components.
Not certainly in that way.
mirrorless cameras do not have backfocus, in principle, this is true.
if a mirrorless camera has a phase af - then it focuses at about the same speed as a DSLR. Approximately (strongly depends on the lens-carcass ligament).
however, mirrorless cameras have one feature - often, if for some reason phase focusing is difficult, the bzk switches to contrast focusing, which is noticeably slower, but more accurate.
plus, TOP DSLRs have phase sensors, as Arkady correctly writes, they work in low light.
And in modern BZK, their sensitivity in the dark is at the level of simpler DSLRs. Class D200, for example.
I do not argue that the sensitivity of SLR cameras is higher. But I'm talking about the result: it is argued that the UPC are better at focusing. In principle, this is not without meaning if we take into account the statement that SLR cameras with a higher sensitivity of sensors have a higher probability of not getting into focus.
You know, from my experience of filming, the accuracy and frequency of hitting new fuji bzk and "advanced amateur" Nikons in conditions of normal lighting and immobility of the subject is about the same.
This is, as it were, the result of practice, not theoretical research.
Top-end modern Nikons BZK still surrender. True tops and cost 2-3 times more
1. A leather case or a grip pad is bought and the grip on XT10 is more than suitable.
2. for quickness - “sleep” is turned off for хт10, energy efficiency is switched to “high”, the viewfinder is in the position - onli EVI (without the proximity sensor).
3. For reporting, you can also turn on "constant tracking", but it wildly consumes the battery.
Or you can just buy a D7200, which I did :)
You, as I understand it, just the X-T10? Can you show day-to-day pictures from him?
all work for him .. well, more or less something worthwhile - on the site http://lynxpro.ru/
most of it is on him.
Thanks, looked.
Well, a normal fast lens, of course. type 16-55 or 23/2
its temperature range is interesting.
DSLR Canon is a common thing to shoot at minus 20 and below.
how can she?
In the cold -5, I shot using the a6300 without any problems. But I do not think that this device is designed for serious tests. This is an amateur camera with the corresponding capabilities.
I shot a similar (but not so) Sonya (nex f3) in the cold - except for a faster bite of the battery, no complaints.
in general, BZK has no problems with frost resistance.
it is even better for them if it is cool - the matrix cools more effectively.
And eating batteries is more critical because of their low capacity.
But what about the BZK, that for the TsZK wearing spare 1-2 batteries in the inner, warm pocket is a must have.
You may encounter a lag of the picture and a bad reaction to pressing (for the touch screen).
At -20 I shot on a5000 - everything works fine. I will not say that she was at this temperature all the time, as she hung on her chest with her jacket open, but nevertheless, for about an hour, I shot Sigma 60 with her.
For me, the a5000 is even more comfortable than my Nikons - they do not fit so easily on the chest under the jacket and I prefer to shoot Sonya in the cold.
I agree about the moronic form factor of the non-wired cases, personally, I will seriously think about buying the w / w when they are rolled out in convenient Nikon 5xxx or 7xxx housings, and for the camera "always with you" a pro-twist with a fast lens and the same with matrix APS-C. And yes, for the right price!
Haha I want a Mercedes for the price of a Cossack. So, the sweetest does not happen. With your appetites, film. As Arkady rightly noted, you will have a full frame for $ 35, you are our dreamy!
Let's not breeze a srach, and give "advice" to whom to shoot what, dear Vasily. To me, the dimensions and weight of the 7th series from Nikon seem excessive. With pleasure I will acquire F.F. in the dimensions of the 5th series, when it will appear in Nikon, albeit a BZK.
Wait for a99 mII. If I'm not mistaken, it will be a UPC in the body of a DSLR with a bunch of goodies
you will not be bzk.
because "adequate price" for such statements means "for nothing, but I'll think about it."
Accept - the BZK is not for those who want to save money, besides, compared to buying a used DSLR for 15 thousand.
Vasily, can I have a link to “Arkady rightly noted that you will have a full-frame for 35 dollars”?
Here, of course, not $ 35, but I think this article was meant https://radojuva.com/2013/09/endorphin/
Yes, there is a full-format camera in the region of 30-50 cu :)
“The first crop cameras with an APS-C sensor to have 24MP on board are the Sony NEX-7 and Sony SLT-A65, presented on 24.08.2011/6/XNUMX. XNUMX years have passed since then, but not a single cropped camera has been able to overcome this psychological threshold. "
Arkady, one did it, but unfortunately, the stillborn one - Samsung NX1 - 28 megapixels.
Fixed
"But unfortunately, the stillborn - Samsung NX1"
And the truth is unfortunately. I recall with delight the miniature whale 20-50. What this piece of plastic was giving out bypassed many expensive lenses in terms of sharpness and detail. Samsung could achieve good results in photographic equipment, but it did not give a damn about this unit. It seems that they completely closed the direction.
all the same two then) another NX 500. Now with it, an excellent camera, Sony has only recently released something similar (a6300). It's a pity the system is dead. The optics were gorgeous, damn 30, 85 1.4, 16-50 2-2.8. And they exchanged all this for 360 cameras and other indecency ... I even thought to give Arkady a test, his opinion is interesting.
Good afternoon Arkady! Red background with the image of technology hits the eyes. Belenky was sympathetic. Why replaced, if not secret?
I did not replace. He took off a couple of pieces of equipment on red.
Against the background of a sickle and a hammer ...
Mirrors are good in cities (when it's warm). Try to get a mirrorless mirror at -30 from the bag and looking at the braking EVI, take a couple of pictures with precise focus. Or looking at EVI at night somewhere in the forest. Just a dark screen, because the eyes will be more perfect than the UPC. JVI in this regard wins greatly, not being a mediator between reality and eyes.
In fact, it would be warm, and a lot of light at night, without precipitation, I would buy a mirrorless mirror (though not for that kind of money). But callosity will not allow.
Complete nonsense.
Exaggerated, but not nonsense.
Anything can be ... it's a pity you cannot be sent to Yakutia with a mirrorless camera for a day somewhere in Nizhny Berestyi for a day, only with the condition not to enter the house.
No difference with similar DSLRs.
Try to get a frozen DSLR out of your bag at -30 and attach the viewfinder to your eye, and you don't need to take the mirrorless camera out of your bag at -30, as it can hang around your neck under the jacket and you rotate the screen 90 degrees - and took an instant photo
Firstly, this is true if you shoot on the street homeless or shabby dogs who strive to run away. Secondly, I already imagine how under your jacket you have a bzk with 70-200 wound, for example. It can take up to a couple of hours for me to shoot one frame when the camera is on a tripod. And here, the camera removed from under the jacket in a minute will be covered with what?!?
First off, who shoots straights on televisions? Normal focal length for this is 12-55.
Secondly, the BZK is usually 50-140.
Thirdly, it will not be covered by anything.
They are shooting for themselves. Moreover, if according to the “code” of street photography, then the zoom is not allowed.
UPC do not end on micra. There are Sony, Samung, Canon with 1,5-1,6 crop.
Apparently I did not encounter fogging and did not see the matrix in the stains from condensate. Oh well!
Here is the dark Fuji zoom
First off, who shoots straights on televisions?
And what, some rules and standards have been approved? Where can I find it?
Look for “standardization and rules for filming on the streets” Moscow, ed. "diaphragm". 2009
Suddenly, not a single sprinkled BZK has 70-200. There are only classes 50-140 and others like them, that of mikra, that of fuja. Canon is still like that. toy.
ohhh ..
Yes, tell me how the matrix sweats when transferring it from a warm room to the cold.
Surprise!
50-230 fuj
Amateur TV is not the class 70-200 / 2,8 in question.
Yes, and it’s generally a tiny size - no problem with hiding under a jacket.
I'm just wondering, what do you think could improve 70-200 in this picture?
I would have made a cool bowl.
SUDDENLY there are adapters and to see, for example, 70-200 / 4L on Sony BZK is not uncommon.
Example of stains after matrix fogging:
and these fogging appeared after the camera was removed from heat to cold, right? )))
warm-cold, cold-warm and condensate provided.
Well there, and cho? and you can screw the Sigma 600 altogether .. and shoot on it.
you never know freaks.
Yy ... I got off the topic. ))
where did you go ?! I did not say that this is the result of a single temperature difference. But it is foolish to say that constant heat-cold “swing” does not cause condensation!
Oh, these forum theorists.
Swing, carousel
And don’t talk! Manage to argue with the laws of physics!
You stated that “if you take it out from under the jacket, it will be covered in a minute ..” these are your words, no one pulled you by the tongue three times in a row to assert that condensation appears when a warm body is taken out into the cold.
When a warm body is taken out to frost, pimples appear ...
Even quote manage with looping. Well, OK! After a minute, the lens will fog up. It will cool to the desired temperature and norm or hoarfrost. Then we again put it under the jacket and again he does fog up, but now there are stains from the water.
And if someone badly taught physics, then I remind you:
Condensate (Latin condensatus - condensed, condensed) - the product of condensation of the vaporous state of liquids, that is, the product of the transition of a substance upon cooling from gaseous to liquid form.
and under the jacket the humidity is still high
Given that the picture was taken at f22, it is more like dust on the matrix.
Dust can be blown away, but stains may also occur due to condensation
@Oleg
Why then is the condensate - if it's in it - so small and uneven?
learn physics, topic.
1. If the homeless people in your city move faster than the middle class, then for me something is deeply wrong with the priorities of this middle class itself;
2. Dogs in a decent society are usually fed and handed over to shelters;
2. If you take out a warm chamber in the cold, then due to heat transfer the chamber body will cool down, and the gas molecules in contact with this body will accelerate;
3. And what do you do with your camera for such significant periods of time;
4. I know examples of beautiful photographers taking pictures at one 50, this does not bother them to dance well.
1. What is your understanding of the middle class?
2. A lot of fed and surrendered?
3. Where will the gas molecules “accelerate”?
4. An example. The survey took about 1,5 hours. In the final photo, an assembly of 8 frames.
5. And I know examples of photographers taking pictures at any focal lengths and what?
1. The middle class is the bulk of the population - akurat located between the poor and the rich;
2. I owe you nothing, if I’m not mistaken, including reporting on my actions;
3. Yes, I'm not always careful when typing. At the same time, I don’t get into a dispute about what I don’t understand at all and did not miss physics lessons at school, but this is so by the way;
4. Interesting plot;
5. I.e. we agreed that huge lenses are not needed by everyone and not always.
UPCs at night allow you to focus much more conveniently. There is a mode in which the sighting goes on high lifted ISO. Here in the cold - bzk fails. And it blunts and the battery sits down after 20 frames))))
I shot at night at -35 on the D750 .. sighting was intuitive .. frame - correction - frame - correction and so many times .. each frame for 2-10 minutes .. that's still a pleasure.
With the BZK, you have to keep 5 batteries warm, the rest is not worse.
Wait, what about the live view? Focusing through Live view is no different from the BZK.
In the first place, the quality of photographs, and ease of use later.
It all depends on your goal, if you are photographing something motionless (stuffed animals, for example), then I am ready to agree with you, and if you are taking photographs in a dynamic, real life, then the priorities shift somewhat - what's the point in potential quality if you are not able respond adequately? Get high-quality background photos ☺, and the subject will be removed by the time you prepare, on the other hand, you can arrange people in the frame or nail animals to the desired positions, if you like to look out for signs of torture and sadism in photos ...
This is a bad example, since the answer is the same: it’s better not to get anything than to get some garbage. In general, you do not need to go to extremes. What is being discussed here: this camera can be carried in your pocket, this one is not so heavy, etc. With equal photo quality, I will also choose an option that you can carry in your pocket, but if I see a significant difference in the resulting images, I’d better take a backpack. If someone is completely satisfied with the photos from the device, which can be carried in your pocket, it is from this that you need to start the narration, and not focus on its size.
I, of course, may be wrong, like all of us, but what you say is extremely similar to the famous "photographed a cat on a soap dish" http://shuster.livejournal.com/233164.html
On the other hand, the size and weight of the camera is very important for the quality of the resulting material. It's just that often because the absence of a frame as such implies a lack of image quality.
When I walked with the BZK through the streets, I received more good shots than when I again went over the mirror. It is the good ones, which completely satisfy me in quality. And they just appeared because the camera was in my pocket while I was going about my business and met them along the way.
why then went to the mirror? O_o
JVI, good trick, cheaper.
I have to sacrifice one thing (I no longer go with a camera in my pocket along the corridor at work, for example, and there were a couple of shots from there for several years), but the more agile I manage to catch a moving one (a child, for example), on the proceeds from going back I bought a usable flash, my favorite lens for the old technology (for a DSLR). Well, and a bonus - JVI, after all.
I consider it an ideal combination to carry something like a6300 + sigma 30 2.8 in my pocket, and have EOS 1D C + 50 1.2L in my backpack and at home for quick access, but somehow I don’t get into the budget. And now it’s not even possible to combine something like a5000 + with the same sigma and 50d +40 stm.
Therefore, I am content with one reasonable compromise in the form of a compact SLR. If you tell me a cool solution for me in the region of 30t.r., I will be grateful.
if with interchangeable lenses, then alas, a normal system will not fit into 30.
Fujiks
in 35-36 you can already find bu xt10, but this plus glass is still needed, at least 35tku, and if you take 35/2, then about 18 thousand, if 23/2, then 30 thousand. or you can take 18/2 on the secondary - awesome compact, though not too fast pancake. It's about 18 thousand.
Although “for every day” you can look at either the X70 crumb with a 1,5 crop and all branded fujipad accessories, only contrasting af, or X100T or X100S, but this is already a secondary property and how lucky.
By Sonya, alas, I do not know, I will not tell you.
For oliks, it makes sense to look at pen6 pen7 and higher as a "pocket". cool colors but crop2. Seriously, only the new mark2, omd5 or omd10, but this goes beyond the budget.
But I don’t understand the advantages of JVI (as an amateur photographer with 35 years of experience); EVI is more efficient and almost as fast in modern cameras. Yes, there is no viewfinder lag in the mirrors, but how critical is this? but in EVI I see how the camera sees, and it is much more convenient.
The fact is that within my budget I can not afford a camera with good EVI. The difference between a bad EVI (or even a sight on the screen) and a good modern EVI is many times greater than the difference between an old inferior JVI and a modern excellent JVI. And just a comparison between a bad EVI (or screen) and an arbitrarily bad JVI (except for the zenith) will be very strong in favor of the JVI.
Regarding the fact that in EVI - what the camera drives - not always. For example, I used a Samsung with an amolid screen and an EVI - the picture was different from what I saw on the computer as much as it could be. As far as I remember now, Sony's dd was not always reflected correctly.
Lynx, thanks for laying out! I do not consider Fuji and Mikru, in the absence of other suitable options for the UPC (Sony does not like noise reduction and the absence of its own sane budget optics, the Samsung has disgusting matrices (those that I had to try), C and N did not try (but there seems to be nothing to try). I'm still sitting on a simple old DSLR.
I received a suitable flash for the proceeds from the transition back to the old technology (to the DSLR), my favorite lens
In my opinion, this is the most reasonable approach. A good camera is, of course, good, but there comes a time when it is impossible to grow in photography without light.
And which is better - JVI or EVI - but what's the difference? Both are tools. A good tool shouldn't interfere with or distract from the main one. Personally, EVF annoys me, which means that a camera with EVF is a bad tool for me.
@zengarden
But I don’t understand the advantages of JVI (as an amateur photographer with 35 years of experience); EVI is more efficient and almost as fast in modern cameras. Yes, there is no viewfinder lag in the mirrors, but how critical is this? but in EVI I see how the camera sees, and it is much more convenient.
The only advantage is whoever likes it. For myself, I decided that “I see what the camera sees, and it is much more convenient” for me is not an argument. In most cases, I already know what will turn out in the final image, focusing on the exposure meter. And then, for me, it is preferable to take a shot, and then delete, if it did not work out, than to set it up for a long time, endorse, and then be sad that the moment was lost.
The fact is that the criteria for “bullshit” are different for everyone: someone thinks that bullshit is when there is no pixel-by-pixel sharpness, another follows the horizon, someone wants to see a reflection of their personal feelings in the photo ... Apparently that's why everything in the world is so different and someone shoots with a monocle or a lens from 50-60 years, and someone prefers super-sharp lenses.
Cartier Bresson makes facespalm on this teenage saying.
In a large number of cases, the quality of the result depends on the ease of use.
In my opinion, positive emotions from the whole process come first.
Of the crop, now the most worthwhile is fuji x-t1.
Strongly fell on the secondary in price after the release of x-t2.
The picture is amazing. Almost no twist now the color in Photoshop. Sometimes sharpness only.
On the D750 and A7m2, the jpeg was much worse. And for walks and non-professional use - working with raw began to strain. A7m2 delighted with a stub in the matrix. The D750 delighted with decent, inexpensive old AF lenses.
not at all. most worthwhile xt10.
Xt1 became meaningless a year ago.
Which, by the way, confirms the state of affairs at the flea market - there are several times more sales of one unit than dozens.
This is because the unit has fallen in price more. With the new firmware, it is as fast as a dozen; at the same time more convenient and dustproof, splashproof. Is that there is no separate lever for "auto mode".
not therefore. but because those who bought хт1, throw it off to grab hold of хт2. since хт1 with all its "type of bells and whistles" does not particularly meet the requirements for such cameras, хт2 is much better.
And xt10 was initially with lower requirements, and even now, after the release of xt20, it is unlikely that the flea markets will fill up with a dozen.
Although the twenty exhibited at a very tasty price.
Arkady, from the review it’s not entirely clear that there is 4K video, or there is only the ability to record in 4K with any restrictions. It is heated just like the a6000 or fixed. Due to what it became possible to record 4K (new processor, programmatically or simply added the ability to firmware)?
Yes, there is a full 4K recording capability. It is heated moderately. Most likely the matrix was doped (copper instead of aluminum), maybe something else was added.
Recently I was thinking of taking the NEX-5T with a 16-50 OSS whale for everyday use. Does she lose much to this combine? 4K in the next five years is not interested.
Arkady, a question on the site. I went here to the camera section and did not see this model. I observed the same a couple of times with reviews on Sony lenses from the reader. I am not a fan of mirrorless, but in my opinion it smacks of discrimination))
Fixed
Cool "discussion" of sony a6300. Who is what is great, but on topic 0 information: (((((.
In a6300, overheating is present when shooting video, 30 minutes and the camera turns off.
It is treated by changing the battery.
As an amateur with 550d, 24-105,50 1.4 I think about changing, I read, but in fact there is no solution. In terms of video, the a6300 fullhd is worse than the a6000, but there is 4k, which can be scaled in full hd if desired ... In my case, this is if you switch to a6300 (or spend money on a6500), what to do with lenses - buy these micro for sony, or take an adapter to ef, in the second it seems like autofocus will not work and the like. I also have the photo function and the video function important.
Are the new models from Canon worse in terms of form? Does it just make sense to change the system? Although I’m not shooting a video, it’s interesting)
Look at the cost of native optics for the Sony system and think carefully.
The cost of lenses for Sony is much more expensive, on average, a lens needs 50000 rubles. According to statistics, about 400-500 lenses can be worn on a canon, while on a sony a6300 the number will be 55 pieces ...…. Now I found that many have switched from canon 5d mark iii, canon 6d and others. There are no negative reviews, the main problem is the lenses (their price) ……. Somewhere I found reviews about comparing the video quality of 550d with a6300 .. Opinions are divided on this matter… ..
This question torments me now.
On the one hand, I want something smaller and at the same time, the quality of both the photo and video is better. Sony liked the focus, and as I understand it, panasonic that fuji is definitely not better.
On the other hand - well, xs :)))
The new Fuji x-t20 has recently been released, it has both photos and videos at the level, and the price of glass will be lower than Sonevsky.
Sony is expensive with glasses.
if an amateur - then 550d is quite a normal carcass
We will try :)))
Question on the electronic viewfinder.
The Sony a6300 has a physical EVI size with which can be compared by analogy with a DSLR?
Is it closer to Nikon D90 or Nikon D40? And what about the diotrious amendment?
For example, I have farsightedness and visual acuity of 0,7. And this is critical when choosing a camera.
Thank you.
adjustment is, 0.7x 100%, Nikon D90 0.94x and 96%
I am aware of this data.
But Sonya's 0,7 is supposedly calculated for a full frame, and Nikon's 0,94 in relation to a cropped frame. In theory, the size of Sony's viewfinder should be. even slightly more than that of the D90. Therefore, the question arose about the visual perception of Sony's EVI 6300 ...
Discussion participants are asked to explain how to manually select the focus point for NEX 6, NEX 7, A6000, A6300 mirrorless cameras. In Nikoie D90, with a joystick, this can be done at any time. Sony re-read a lot of reviews on the BZK, they write only about the number of points, speed and focus accuracy ...
As for the image quality, compared to the Nikon 7200 I sold and bought this Sonya is simply not comparable. The 6300 just has a lot less noise. If Nikon began to make noise already from 800 and then Sony from 3200. And the image is much sharper. So the author cunningly said that 7200 has a better image.
Tell me this is a professional camera? Can I work on it, shoot models. Or only an amateur aspect? How do I figure it out to start working - my first camera .. or look for other cameras?
You can shoot with a non-professional camera. The professional line is Sony A7, A9 and their modifications. Well, or there are nikons / canons.
SOS!!!!!! Urgently!!! Please tell me what to buy from the compacts for the amateur retired to get good pictures. mainly in auto modes ... with an amount of 30-35 rubles ????? I would be grateful for an answer .... An answer in vde-brand-lens is desirable
Sony RX100 second or third generation just fit into the voiced budget
I imagine that for pornography in the pictures with a closed hole, it happens with an uncovered matrix.
Literate people use both platforms :)
The main thing is to decide why you need it.