Overview specifically for Radozhiva prepared Tomchenko Roman.
For the camera provided for the test, thanks to the Fujifilm representative office in Ukraine.
Fujifilm X – T10 is a mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses of an advanced amateur level. It is a simplified version of the X – T1, with simplified functionality and devoid of dust and moisture protection.
* |
X – T1 |
X – T10 |
Matrix |
X-Trans II CMOS 16Mp (APS-C 1.5) |
|
Processor |
EXR Processor II |
|
ISO |
200-6400 (100-51200 for JPEG) |
|
Display |
3 "(1) |
3 "(920) |
Viewfinder |
EVF, 100%, 0.77x (2) |
EVF, 100%, 0.62x (2) |
Built-in flash |
no |
yes, RF 5m (ISO 100) |
Burst shooting |
8 fps |
|
Security |
+ |
no |
* according to dpreview.com
The camera uses a proven 16-megapixel sensor manufactured using X-Trans II CMOS technology.
Ergonomics
Ergonomics and layout of controls are familiar to those familiar with Fuji cameras. The camera is full of mechanical disks and switches, allowing you to configure the camera for almost any use case in 1-2 steps.
Among the controls, there are two pressure sensitive command dials, three programmable buttons (video by default, setting ISO and flash modes), direct focus point selection using the buttons on the rear panel, mechanical wheels for setting exposure compensation and excerpts and Auto switch, which puts the camera in a fully automatic mode with one motion.
The camera is almost entirely made of metal. The areas for the hands are rubberized. The grip is facilitated by the projections on the front and back (under the thumb). Everything is done firmly and soundly, nothing creaks or looseness. The rubber bands are tactilely similar to Nikon's ones, they may be prone to peeling off. The wheels, levers and buttons are comfortable, the only exception is the first programmable button (with a red circle, by default - video recording), which has a rather tight and unobvious move. In the camera, the switching of standard shooting modes is originally organized (PASM, those familiar with Fuji cameras are already used to it): aperture rings and excerpts equipped with separate positions for automatic installation, respectively, if you set A on the aperture ring, and set the shutter speed manually, we get S / Tv mode, if on the contrary - A / Av.
Unlike the “big brother”, the X – T10 boasts a built-in flash that provides fairly even illumination of nearby objects. To activate the flash, use the mechanical lever under the drive mode dial. The flash fulfills surprisingly well and smoothly (unlike Canon's built-in flashes, which are only for show).
Attention: the flash does not work in quiet and continuous shooting modes, as well as when using the electronic shutter.
With a fujion 56 / 1,2 lens, the weight balance of the camera is noticeably shifted towards the lens. It seems that this will not happen with a lighter regular kit 16-50 / 3,5-5,6.
The impression of ergonomics is spoiled simply by the disgusting speed of image processing: from the moment of shooting to the ability to view the shot it takes 1-1,5 seconds.
Battery operation is optimized compared to the X – T1 - one charge lasts almost a full day, although the battery is the same.
Image quality
There are no complaints about the quality of the picture. The camera out of the box provides the correct non-oversaturated color rendering. ISO3200 can be safely considered working for most tasks. The device is capable of shooting in JPEG, RAF, RAF + JPEG. The size of the RAW file is around 30-32 MB. The latest versions of Camera RAW and Lightroom are supported.
Advantages and disadvantages
+ Excellent ergonomics. A large number of manual controls.
+ Many programmable buttons.
+ Good image quality (depends to a large extent on the lens).
+ Well-functioning built-in flash.
+ Good battery life (for mirrorless cameras).
+ Excellent electronic viewfinder (picture quality surpasses the main screen).
+ High-quality rotary display.
- Disgusting processing speed of the captured frame.
- Lack of constant focusing during continuous shooting (the meaning of 8k / sec is lost)
- Minor grip problem: On medium / large hand sizes, the pad at the base of the thumb constantly presses the lower function button.
- Quite high cost.
Fujinon XF 56mm f / 1.2 R lens
Classic fast portrait (if you count the focal length). Made entirely of metal. The focus ring is very soft and smooth, with a notch for a comfortable grip. Separate aperture setting ring. It has an interesting pattern.
Cut with open. The bokeh pattern is quite specific - contrasting objects in the blur zone resemble an applique.
Chromatic aberrations practically absent. Even in the open to find HAYou have to try.
The lens is extremely sensitive to lateral flare. “Hares” are caught even in the absence of a light source in the frame.
Vignetting is present, but completely annoying and easy to edit in the editor.
Advantages and disadvantages
+ Constructive, strength.
+ Smooth focusing ring.
+ Precise focusing even on open.
+ A large number of aperture steps (intermediate ones are set by a scroller on the camera).
+ Sharp. Fixed HA. Distortion is practically absent.
- "Specific" bokeh.
- There is practically no glare protection. The use of a hood is strongly recommended.
- The price is too big.
Photo Gallery
(camera JPEG, from cropping and resizing only)
RAW source files can be downloaded at this link.
Conclusions
A good, albeit not without flaws, amateur mirrorless camera with excellent image quality, good ergonomics and high-quality assembly at a fairly high price.
It opens up to the maximum with a good (read, “expensive”) fixed lens.
Controls include two pressure-sensitive control dials, three programmable buttons (by default, video, ISO and flash modes), direct focus point selection with buttons on the rear panel, mechanical wheels for setting exposure compensation and shutter speed, and an Auto switch that switches camera in fully automatic mode. ———–
actually two control dials (with customizable and non-customizable pressing), 7 programmable keys (plus AF-L AF-E swap), exposure compensation dials, shutter speeds, and drive modes + creative modes, as well as a display view switching key, a quick menu key , SCM mode lever.
What nonsense about the delay in the output of the captured frame? If the menu is set to “show frame after shooting”, then the frame is displayed without delays. The only exceptions are “creative modes (black and white with one color, lomography, etc.)” - where the camera really spends about a second to process the frame and form a preview for display.
The battery life is optimized compared to the X – T1 - one charge lasts almost a full day, although the battery is the same. —– A charge of 1-1,5 batteries is enough for a two-three-hour reportage, in a mixed shooting mode (viewfinder + screen), about 800 frames.
Although, of course, if you do a dozen frames a day, then 3 days is enough, even without shutting down.
Latest versions of Camera RAW and Lightroom are supported. - only Adobe programs still do not work correctly with a non-Byer matrix.
Lack of constant focusing during continuous shooting (the meaning of 8fps is lost) —- With focusing mode C, continuous focusing is performed in continuous shooting. But in S mode, really, exposure and focusing are done on the first frame.
The lens is extremely sensitive to side light. "Hares" are caught even in the absence of a light source in the frame - - - there is no indication of the presence of a metal proprietary "rectangular" hood in the kit just for such cases.
“What nonsense about the delay in the output of the captured frame? If “show frame after shooting” is set in the menu, then the frame is displayed without delays. The only exceptions are "creative modes (b & w with one color, lmography, etc.)" - where the camera really spends about a second to process the frame and generate a preview for display. "
I do not argue. Perhaps a specific glitch of my instance
"There is no indication of the presence of a metal proprietary" rectangular "hood in the kit just for such cases."
Because it is missing because they gave it to me without a hood)
Overview of a specific instance of the camera and lens.
There is an option that you inserted a cheap slow-down card, and Fuji needs something sane, with a speed of at least 80 kb / s
And in case of absence, but presence in the standard set, the same Arcady makes a special note about it.
Understood, corrected (in the end the first such review)
We all learn. )))
And all the same - satisfy my curiosity, was the frame with the “flare in half of the image” taken on a naked lens, or was it with a winding protective filter?
Completely naked optics. And he got the hang of it himself - in glass for such a price ... And on the same bridge from different angles, 5 frames with such a glare turned out. Maybe again, an unsuccessful copy was caught. Fujiki gives quite well-worn devices for tests - it is clear from the optics that she was chasing into the tail and into the mane.
it will be necessary to take the untapped things from us at the box office, otherwise I won’t get to something and test it.
but this is how it was necessary to use to scrape off enlightenment.
> In focus mode C, continuous focusing is performed in continuous shooting.
Only on the first frame. In the new X-Pro2, the follower seems to work adequately with serial, but also not sure.
> only adobovskie programs still do not work correctly with non-Bayer matrix.
Are there any converters that work 100% correctly with trance fuji? read about different - almost all give different results.
1. wrong. with the necessary settings, it works for each frame.
2. Captcha and Ninja.
It opens up to the maximum with a good (read, "expensive") prime lens. - like any camera, fuck?
"A classic high-aperture portrait lens (if you recalculate the focal length)." I can't agree.
it turns out 85 / 1,8, if I'm not mistaken.
Although the recent 90/2 is already considered to be a "classic" in Fuji
But the glare on the side flare in general resembles the glare from the wound protective filter.
At least in one of the reviews of the 56th I did not see a mention of problems with backlight and side light, rather the opposite.
Thanks for the review, I wanted to hear an alternative opinion.
Brevity is the sister of talent of course. But is the lens manual or autofocus? By indirect signs, I understand that manual (metal, aperture control ring)
I also tend to manual, but confused by the phrase "Accuracy of focusing even on open"
AF.
In Fuji on fixes, you can set the aperture on the lens by marks.
Thanks. Interesting, but the topic is not fully disclosed.
It would be nice to cooperate with owners of Nikon D3XXX, for example, and compare cameras literally head-on.
The topic is not fully disclosed: focusing speed, for example. I do not follow the Fuji line, the first impression is that this is an old manual lens. Super Spartan Review
Eeeeeeee ... I didn't write a review. :)
Yes, I understand. I agree that the topic is not fully disclosed. For example, how does autofocus work
In terms of the camera? :)))
The question is not trivial.
It will work well when shooting static objects in good lighting, maybe comparable in speed with DSLRs. But when driving, in the worst lighting, questions arise. :))
But they don’t buy BZKs for reporting filming, so the owners of the fujas are unlikely to be particularly worried.
For them it is more important that it is easier (ha ha), less (ha ha) and looks cool-hipster.
the lens is not the fastest.
But his purpose is not like that.
You can not compare them forehead, well, if only in size.
Good day! Or can someone share long-exposure shots? Photos of the night sky /, stars, lightning, cityscapes, or something like that, I really want to see this overpowered without a noisy picture. rusya2008@ukr.net
she has very good landscapes on the top ten, and a test of a new firmware.
http://liseykina.livejournal.com/
https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/drach-mikola2012/album/495258/
I own such a camera. There is no braking, although the speed is slightly inferior to the Nikon D7000 with my previous camera. Fujik wins in focus accuracy, there are very few misses (lens 18-55 2.8-4, Nikon was native 35 1.8 and sigma 17-55 2.8).
I completely agree with the lenses, a good 18-55 kit is inferior to 35 1.4 in terms of picture quality (I took it for a week).
SW Lynx, share your experience, which developer do you think is better to use?
PS the lens in the review is autofocus, the manufacturer positions it as portrait and fast, and in the review of the portraits only a dog)) and the rest is on covered diaphragms.
I’m not a Lynx, but a few words from me about the developer.
Tried C1, Ninja, RPP, Silka (which is offered in the kit) and Lightroom. On those scenes that I shoot, I did not see any difference in the quality of development. The differences are very minor. I am not a professional photographer, perhaps that is why I do not twist the maximum possible from the pictures, but for my level it was Lightroom that turned out to be the best in terms of efficiency and usability. As for Lynx's remark about incorrect work with a non-Bayer matrix, you just need to take into account some nuances (for example, in the detail settings, I usually get on average not the same parameters as for Canon).
To be honest, I am now more and more inclined to work with jeepgs and setting up multiple profiles "from the camera", and pay more attention to working with the frame, composition and photo history than fiddling with the processing of "raw rav".
Although for the thoughtful picking of the rabbis, in case of incomprehensible filming, I have a captcha Van-9, but my paws won’t reach my mind to study everything there.
for “quickly tweak the colors and sharpness and vignette, on my knee” - I can batch jipegs into the lightroom.
How do you like 18-55?
Thank you, I also like jeepies, though I still can’t quickly configure the settings for the plots, I'm not used to it yet.
I read a lot of good things from 18-55, but honestly I expected more, compared to my former sigma 17-50 2,8 the sharpness is worse (maybe this is treated with post-processing), but it’s cool construct, the drawing is nice, very fast, accurate and silent. And the dimensions are very nice, compared with the same sigma, 2 times lighter and smaller, but darker of course. On walks with a child, everything is super. At 55mm 4.0, portraits are quite suitable. So I tried a 35mm fix and realized that there was a big difference in the picture. It is sharper and sharper on the fix. Now I'm worried what to buy for family shooting 23 1.4, 35 2 or 1.4 or 56.
for a family - 35 / 1,4 is best.
although 35/2 is possible, it is faster, albeit not so “artistic”.
Anyway, thanks to the novel for any efforts, but still it’s somewhat surprising to want to share information in this form as a review, in addition to the existing one.
Wouldn't it be easier to add an extensive commentary to the Lynx review?
No, of course I do not mind, but what will happen if each owner of the camera, instead of commenting, sends his own review?
Well, all the same, filling in the site’s concept.
although I expected a more detailed view of the glass, with focusing speed in different conditions, pattern, sharpness on apertures - there are very few of them, and not a cursory amateur of the carcass itself.
Unfortunately, out of 3 days available for the test, due to work, it turned out to be used only half a day on Sunday (
Hence the scarcity of both genres (mainly architecture) and quantity.
alas.
"No, I certainly don't mind, but what will happen if each camera owner, instead of commenting, sends his own review?"
I explain. A review of the respected Lynx did not appear in the general tape. I just did not think to look at the archive for a review, which I repent of.
well, Arkady does not want to post reviews in the general feed yet .. or rather, it appears in the feed, just after a new review, it is removed from the feed.
Mirrorless, by the way, is super
It is not clear what kind of money ... What are the advantages over a DSLR, which will give out the same quality for half the price? The size? So you can't put it in your pocket with a lens. That this, that the older model, is rather acquired for show-off (appearance under "retro") or out of stupidity ...
I carry in my pocket.
And in the other - a couple of puffs.
And in the third pair of glasses, and in the fourth a tripod? :))
no, only one glass. some kind of portrait manual fix.
100 / 2,8E is just perfect. was. Alas, sold.
The monopod feels rather well on the shoulder when it is needed.
And the lynxes sold everything (although I still sell a belt with pouches).
with ebay here such a nice bag http://www.ebay.com/itm/141126101929?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT, in it, if necessary, trips, intermeddle everything, along with a pair of manual glasses and puff with chargers, and somehow forgot up on other things
Well then, a D3300 or similar will fit into such a pocket, and you can put 300-400 dollars saved on it in another pocket)
does not fit, verified.
Come on? Doesn’t exactly fit? They have a difference in height and length of about 10-12 mm and only in width of about 30 mm, and given the fact that a fifty-50 millimeter Nikon is 1.8 shorter than the Fujinon XF 20mm f / 56 R from the review, the difference in the size on all sides is only 1.2-1 cm. Do you put it in your pocket when you put oil on it, say that the Fujik is in, but a slightly large SLR is not in?
I do not use a 56 mm lens, and yes for sure.
Again, if you show me the d3300 together with the 85 / 1,4d put in a regular pocket, you may be right
What does “regular pocket” mean? My fuji will only fit into the pocket of a winter jacket. In autumn clothes, let alone summer clothes, I don't have big pockets. I and a 5-inch smartphone do not always have where to put it ... Can you show me a photo of a fujika in a pocket of summer clothes? Or at least in the pocket of a light autumn jacket? I wonder how he looks from the outside ...
And if you compare fifty rubles - compare then with 50 / 1,2 .. even though Canon's then
Yes please.
In a pair of autumn jackets, in a waistcoat, in a classic jeans and a windbreaker, and for a snack - in the side pocket of his pants.
Although 18 mm is too big for pants, 27 mm is more compact
https://yadi.sk/d/fcvV0icfquwyv
I am sure that everything (well, maybe except for one jacket) will fit these pockets D5xxx / D3xxx with the new Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR II (which is slightly more compact than the previous ones). But instead of a wide fix there will be a zoom, which is more suitable for a variety of shooting. After all, for example, you don’t really take a big picture of people?
The difference of 1-2 centimeters on each side does not really save (not all have such pockets), but in price, focus speed and autonomy, the SLR will be ahead.
I have a photo vest, unloading, so my whole backpack can fit into it, 6 lenses and 7100, provided that the camera is without a lens, but walking in this and generally doing something is completely impossible.
no, you just think so. And I used to use it.
The opinion that the whale zoom is “more suitable” is not based on anything at all. For example, for several years of filming, I never really needed such a zoom.
And than 27 mm ERF is not suitable for people?
Or can you show the Nikon / Canon pancakes-width on the crop, 14-30 mm, with a hole 2-2,8, the size of a third of a whale lens?
Exactly. One of my friends has pockets - exactly for a matchbox. None of your phones can be called pocket phones right away.
Take pictures of people, portraits to the shirk? Well, if you are a fan of pictures like this, then there are no problems)
“Or can you show at Nikon / Canon pancakes-wide cropped, 14-30 mm, with a hole 2-2,8, the size of a third of a whale lens?”
EF-S 24mm f / 2.8 - won't work?
http://hotline.ua/foto-obektivy/canon-ef-s-24mm-f2point8-is-stm/
well, let's have a little more time for yours "I didn't hear, but Petrovich sang on the phone yesterday"
So, the price - if you do not compare with the castrated (in many respects) junior Nikons, then you can compare the minimum with the D7000. Total - 38-43 thousand versus 35-40 thousand.
focus speed. I gave fuj to the nikonist with d7000. He honestly said that he did not see the difference, although in general the fuji was inferior.
Autonomy? the size of one Nikon accumulator per d7000 is like two Fujik ones. those. that one is in your pocket for d7000 that two for fuja - the operating time is the same.
This is not to mention the much greater convenience of working with fujas and lotions, which Nikon simply does not have.
No, not right. Let's compare the X-T10 in price with the younger models (D3xxx / D5xxx) and here the difference will be exactly half the price or 300/400 cu, but the X – T1 can already be compared with D7xxx, but the differences are still far away not at 50-100 cu
dragging then https://radojuva.com.ua/2016/02/fuji-x-t10/ filming and portraits on a pancake.
So it all depends on the task and skill, IMHO.
Again - no one bothers to take with you a crumb of Industar 50-2, Jupiter 3 or Nikon 100 / 2,8
Well, compare what the problem is .. xt1 and d7300. The announcement time seems to coincide.
And by weight and by price, and by the amount of top glass and their weight.
well, ok .. D5500 - 45 thousand. https://market.yandex.ru/product/11891121?hid=91148&suggest=1&suggest_type=model
The announcement time with xt10 is the same, the external settings, camera capabilities and the result of the nikon really do not care, but since it doesn’t matter to you, here it is. comparison.
Well, if so - _https: //market.yandex.ua/compare.xml? Hid = 91148 & CMD = -CMP = 7979801,12562537
The picture will be approximately the same.
Firstly you could not link.
Secondly, not only the picture is compared; therefore, similar cameras are compared - in terms of release time, and functions, for example, a rotary screen.
And then it’s possible to reach d40 in 4 thousand. )))
I mean, of course, it’s clear that you pour on all the arguments presented, even in your system, in order to make new ones, but you don’t need to merge at all.
And now let's imagine that there is not one such camera with you, and the lens is not one fixed portrait lens, but a couple of zooms, in addition to it
And not castrated Dx000, but something like d7100.
Yes, even the D3300, it’s not a pity. win in size / weight is clear
and the more cameras / lenses with you, the more noticeable
I never take less than three lenses with me for a long walk: fixed-width, fixed-portrait, and telephoto zoom. and two cameras, so as not to engage in constant masturbation of the bayonet mount and not to clog the matrix with dust
this whole set on nikon / canon will weigh one and a half kilos more and is also 1.5 times more voluminous. during long walks, every kilogram and centimeter responds ...
If there are several cameras / lenses, then in general the size is not important. Then you need a bag or backpack for photography. Mirrorless cameras are promoted as a camera, which is always with you thanks to more compact sizes, but smaller carcass dimensions are still leveled by the size of the lenses, which are simply physically impossible to make compact for such a matrix size.
In my opinion, the choice is simple: you need first of all the quality of the picture - a DSLR, the size is important - then a compact soap dish.
Yes, the mirrorless camera produces an excellent picture, comparable to the DSLRs that are similar in size to the matrix, but it has a 2 times higher price. As a result, we have a camera with slightly smaller sizes, but slower focusing and less autonomy.
yeah. Let’s go with two D7000 and four glasses for them, a class of widths 24 / 1,4 poltina 1,4d, zoom 17-50 / 2,8 and 55-200
And I am with two xt10 with similar ones - 23 / 1,4, 50 / 1,2, 18-55 / 2,8, and 50-230.
You can calculate the weights yourself. From fat, even drop 3-4 accumulators, against a pair for nikon.
you have paradoxical logic
the more cameras / lenses, the greater the difference in weight and volume
and where I can get along with a shoulder bag with a BZK, the DSLR will need a backpack
Paradoxical logic is comparing crop fuji and full-frame Nikon)
Well, he compares the top Fuj with 24 megapixels.
however - you yourself can give similar weights for a part-frame nikon, with similar properties.
until they banned Google - look, there are a lot of comparisons. and a slight difference between nikonov fullframe and fuji is visible only at 100% crop
but, I think, religion will not allow you to wave at the fact that fullframe is not the holy grail)
Do not think correctly, my "religion" just gives preference to crops, because in terms of price / quality ratio, crop is definitely ahead. Most people really can't tell by eye the difference between a cropped shot and a full frame, but the price difference is significant.
Also, my "religion" claims that at the moment for most ordinary amateur photographers, the best price / quality ratio is the camera D3xxx / d5xxx or anthological from Kenon. If you need prof. functions (flash control, focus motor) then it is worth watching the D7xxx or full-frame cameras.
For most amateur photographers, a smartphone is enough.
Besides, approaching fujiku according to the principle of “cheap and cheerful” is like approaching FF or SF with the same.
As a former user d 7000 and 17-50 2.8 and the current X-T10 18-55 I will say that the difference in weight and dimensions is very large, about 2 times. This is felt even when carrying in a backpack, around the neck and even more so. For me, this difference was one of the reasons to change the system. Nikon’s wife didn’t even take it in her hands.
For how show-off looks! And how modern it sounds - mirrorless!
A gain in size is clearly not worth those 300-400 cu Well, if only this money is not entirely superfluous. So much superfluous that they burn a hand right. Although in this case, I would prefer to dig up and take a full-frame mirrorless, so that the question of extra cu the house was decided for a while forward. And the picture will be more beautiful. :))))
You see here.
Some people, at some point, realize that "big jyp does not increase the size of the dignity." ))
Oh my God, who is filming with whales now?!?! > ____
landscape painters.
Landscape painters are unlikely, rather the opposite - portrait painters. The whale cannot provide the zoom with an even sharpness before the diffraction begins to limit the resolution.
Well, they say that just for the inexpensiveness and acceptable quality, just landscape painters are whales and love.
If it’s really interesting, take a look at photo.ru in the thread about whale glasses. There are a lot of examples of the most magnificent photos on lenses of type 18-55 from different brands. And the landscapes work pretty well. Although the same 18-55vr2 on f8 will give a very good sharpness over the entire field of the frame. Without climbing with a magnifying glass or printing on a1, you will not see the difference from 17-40 4 liters per ff. So whales are quite suitable for landscapes. Of course, one can’t reach the medium format detail, but for most amateur and not only needs.
I will not say about Nikonovsky, did not use it. But the canonical on f8 18 mm soap and chromatite when viewed pixel by pixel. So if you do not look closely, probably any lens is good and the soap box is also nothing. And they can take portraits if you really want to. Aperture is small of course, but not always the same background in the trash.
+1 18-55 Nikon has one of the best lenses.
Mikhail, and which of the Canon 18-55s did you have? Those without a stub are really bad, the first stable version is better (at the level of the unstable third), and the second with a stub is already very good. And the new STM is generally wonderful, there is less HA and there is not much soap even on the open one (only in the corners). By f8 everything becomes quite sharp, although, of course, arguing about sharpness is like arguing about boke - it's a matter of taste. Someone no longer prints a4 and looks at the whole photo on a computer, while someone a1 prints and looks at their photos on their computer only with an increase.
If you use the camera with the popular 18/2 type pancake glasses, and especially with the 27 / 2.8, the size of the camera allows you to carry it in your jacket pockets. As for prices, the kit 3300 costs only three thousand less than the X-T10 (39 thousand rubles against 42), so the savings will not be 300 ye, but at best 50. If you consider that the quality of the whale is 16-50 second Fuji's generations are noticeably better than Nikon's whale glass, this difference can be generally neglected.
It's even surprising that there are so many blunders in one review on such a respected resource. Lynx quite accurately pointed out the main ones - both about the “lack of constant focusing”, and about the delay in displaying the frame, etc.
Those who write reviews didn’t hurt at least to familiarize themselves with the instructions for the camera ...
By the way, the memory card affects the speed of display and page turning very much
the difference between the Transcend 10 class and Sandisk Extreme is easily noticeable
yes, the presence of a quick card - greatly increases the capabilities of the camera.
uh, how are you looking for the meaning of life))) beautifully))))
discussion tin)))
“And again, the cripples came together in a fierce swing with crutches and prostheses”….
In my opinion, the direct competitor of T10 is still E2, not T1. I just chose between e2 and t10 a few months ago, I had both of these cameras on hand. As a result, I chose E2, mainly due to the lower price of the used carcass at that time. And there were some nuances that influenced the choice, for example, I liked the display in the viewfinder more on E2. T10 impressed with the appearance and quality of the case, a rotary screen, an abundance of buttons and the presence of an electronic shutter. But after updating the firmware, additional custom buttons and an electronic shutter appeared on E2, so now I don’t regret 100% that I chose E2. The only thing missing is a rotary screen.
what inexpressive colors ... I don't believe it's fuji ...
Yes, the color rendition is really terrible. Always thought Fujik was a dull go ... no.
This clearly does not apply to the SuperCCD line.
I always believed that color depends more on lighting and settings, and not on the camera itself. Well, from the photographer. Moreover, the review posted photos without color correction, as I understand it. I can throw you bright photos with fuja.
Photo yes - no flower arrangement at all. The settings are set to neutral mode just to get the colors "without processing"
so I thought about neutral, but still I want the finished result more elegant.
a lot depends on the color profile.
settings. The same plot can be removed in completely different ways.
It all depends on the photographer. You can change the color of light, angle, settings, processing. Well, in general, fudge usually conveys colors very well. You just have to shoot for a while. I remember when I bought Fuj s5pro, I also did not immediately get the desired and celebrated colors. True, with Fuj, it turned out to be much simpler and faster than, for example, with the d7000. So here you just need a little experience.
The color rendition was evaluated on the basis of the experience of video shooting, where just such a color rendition is very necessary for processing. It is not a problem to add saturation in the editor, but removing oversaturated colors in each frame is not our method.
The picture is "out of the box" and must be "equal gray"
Well, here we are ... already the Kenonists have begun to switch to Fuji. I understand that in the near future both Nikonists and Kenonists will unanimously switch to Fuji and finally peace will come
and canonists then definitely have nothing to lose ..
It can be a pity for Nikonists still for DD.
Are you filming the wildlife of Mongolia? Or gathered in space with Bright
Unfortunately no.
Canonists also have something to lose - skin tone, ergonomics, optics park.
oh, I beg you.
“You only have a sofa and a TV! Don't call it “I have something to lose!”. ” (c) Stories about the father.
Well, it's useless to argue here, I would not want to start another srach Nikon vs Canon.
Personally, my camp was defined at the moment when I realized that Nikonov had a handle that was completely inappropriate for my arm (both the budget D5100 and the semi-pro D7000) ...
And mine - when I realized that Canon's ergonomics are inconvenient for me and modern lenses that are terribly ugly in appearance.
D7000 is an amateur
Finally, an adequate comment in a heap of delirium.
@Novel
I agree with you, Canon ergonomics is a big plus.
Summary of the discussion: there is a correct look at the Fuji system, and there are those who cannot understand all its charms. Very similar to the postulate from a religious book in my subjective opinion. Thanks for the review.
Definitely!
Ashes of Trekhsotkovich knocking on our hearts.
Rather, it is: there are those who figured out the Fuji UPC and objectively evaluated them (good or bad), and those who saw them only from afar and did not hold them in their hands, but consider it their duty to deceive them.
I respect Fuji, they do good technique. Although it costs hellishly expensive!
The photos are very correct, even too much ... there is no zest, somehow boring. A lens for that kind of money has a bad boke. IMHO
yes, not so expensive, with comparative estimates - the same.
Glasses - yes, but there are no “simple” glasses, except that 35/2 came out, and a couple of whales and pancakes.
I apologize for the possibly stupid question, but still: is there a high-speed synchronization with an external flash on the OLC from Fuji (following Nikon’s FP example)?
On the current ones - no.
Perhaps a new fuji outbreak announced this year will have this.
My compliments to all, for the first time I am writing a comment here; Another techno-doctor read about fuji / canon / nikon and did not see what worries me as a fuji user. I'm not worried about the quality of the pictures, and not the technical quality (mechanics), cameras and lenses, but the aesthetics of used fuji equipment. After all, it is worth actively starting to use the lens, so the paint slides off, the dust sucks, etc. kenon which has been driving for 2 years and "in the tail and in the face" and even henna ... yes plastic ... but you take a metal helios and try to shuffle it as indicated in the review 5 / 56 for 1.2k (used). Ps boiled ...
Would be a good, emotional comment.
If we wrote without mistakes….
Lynx extinguish them! Tear for Fujik any infidel!
A nightmare, I have not visited Radozhiva for about a year, but they still remember me!
I'm glad you haven't forgotten me. The review is rather weak, all the advantages of Fujis are poorly conveyed, there are few decent pictures. Holivars in the comments delight, it is very interesting to read, I laugh while rolling on the floor as everyone defends the coolness of their system :) Guys, all cameras are good, and Fuji, Canon, and Nikon. It's just that everyone has different tastes. But as far as Fujika is concerned, he simply has some kind of charisma. I had almost all Nikons in use, but when I took Fuji X-Pro1 in my hands, I realized that this is love :) ahaha. I changed Nikons one by one, and once I took the X-Pro1 in my hands I shoot it to this day ... Yes, it is slow, yes, it is slow, yes, any Nikon D3xxx D5xxx surpasses it in all respects, but I want to shoot with Fuji and shoot and shoot, which was not the case with the Nikons. I am not urging everyone to buy X-Pro1 or another Fujik now, with this comment I just want to say that every photographer has a favorite camera and there is no need to argue, because for this person, insulting his best camera is like insulting him personally. Congratulations to Arkady on moving to a new domain! Good pictures to everyone. Fewer comments, more shutter clicks! Go take pictures of girls and post here!
As it is possible in a sane state to compare xt10 with minor nikon and even more so with the worst representative of nikon d7000. You twist rav with d7000 and you want to cry. And Fuj is easily tuned for shooting in a jeep. And it’s even funnier to compare an excellent top fifty fifty with cheap 50 1.8 from Nikon. Take higher and take 56 1.4 for 2 tons of bucks.
I, too, when I see inept photographers with brain marketing, I want to cry
I foresee mournful songs again, but the fact is that the x-t3 / x-t30 are some of the best crop cameras on the market. Both color and DD are better than their predecessors. And much better.
Those Japanese photographers signed on flickr almost massively change their past Fuji models to these. About how they dumped from the third five-copeck coin to the fourth.
Prompt please,
when using the zoom (by pressing the rear wheel) before taking a picture,
Does the camera return to non-zoom mode first or take a picture right away?
Thank you
The younger models are made quite inconveniently - first return to the mode without magnification, then the picture.
Maybe someone already mentioned, did not find