5 things to start processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom

On Radozhiv, I rarely write about photo processing, but this time I still want to share five basic settings / manipulations that I do for each photoimported to Lightroom (Lightroom).

5 steps to lightroom

5 steps to lightroom

I use several versions of Lightrum that are simultaneously installed on my computer running Window OS. Different versions have slightly different functionality, or different methods for implementing the same functions. Depending on the situation, I choose the version I need. Here are screenshots based on the rather old version of Lightroom 3.7. I have all versions of Lightroom without Russification, since for me this is not important.

For a long time working with the program, I developed my own algorithm for working in Lightroom, which I use almost always. My 5 simple tips will help as much as possible only for those who shoot in RAW format and display photos in batches.

For thoughtful development of each RAW photo separately, I recommend using the original (i.e. native) software. For example, for a Nikon system, this View NX, Capture NX, View NX-i, Capture NX-D.

0 (zero point). I import RAW files.

The essence of the action: prepare the workspace for further file manipulations.

This is the zero, additional point from which work with Lightroom always begins. To start processing photos, you must first import them into the program. I use a fast and primitive upload: I just drag all the files into the Lightroom window and press the 'Import' button. I always import from a directory on my hard drive. If you import from a USB flash drive, the import process will be delayed, since the program will most likely first copy all the source files to its special directory.

Import has its own peculiarities. When photos are imported into Lightroom, you can sometimes notice how the preview picture (thumbnail) changes its color, saturation, exposure. This is due to the fact that each RAW file contains not only the original information about the image, but also many other additional data. One such data is thumbnails of photos for quick viewing. Roughly speaking, a JPEG thumbnail is embedded in the RAW file, which is used to quickly view the captured photo on the camera display. This JPEG thumbnail is based on the settings set by the camera. While importing photos into Lightroom, the program shows JPEG thumbnails ripped out of the RAW file. After trying to view the photo closer, Lightroom builds (renders) a new image directly from the original raw data using its own presets. The presets of Lightroom and JPEG thumbnails do not match, which is why the original picture changes before our eyes.

Unfortunately, it is very, very difficult to get from Lightroom an exact repetition of all camera settings. In fact, it is impossible to repeat all the camera settings. Only native software can display a RAW image on a computer in full accordance with what can be seen on the camera's display. But in order to minimize the differences between how the picture looks on the camera display and in the program window, I recommend disable all additional functions in the camerathat enhance the image. For Nikon, this is primarily about Active. D-lighting.

All improvements must be made with Lightrum.. It makes sense to use the on-camera functions to improve the image only when shooting in JPEG format, or if RAW files will be processed using native software.

After import, you can add tags, tags, correctly catalog a series of pictures, and set up the sorting of photos in the feed.

Also, you can import immediately using a specific preset, in which you can write the settings below.

After importing into Lightroom

After importing into Lightroom

1. I set the camera profile.

The essence of the action: basic setting for the most correct / beautiful rendering of the source RAW file.

The setting is located at Develop -> Camera Calibration -> Profile -> select the desired profile

In order for the image formed in Lightroom to be as similar as possible to the one displayed on the display of the camera, Lightroom needs to specify the correct profile of the camera. In short, the Camera Profile is a picture control mode that is set on the camera (neutral, saturated, monochrome, etc.).

This is the key point. The correct camera profile allows you to significantly improve the visual perception of the picture. Finding a good profile for a specific camera is very, very difficult.

Usually Lightroom has a set of basic profiles: neutral, saturated, landscape, portrait, etc. These profiles very weakly correspond to similar profiles that are set on the camera.

You can do the search for a profile for your particular camera yourself. Usually, third-party developers are involved in creating profiles. I am sure that for a large number of cameras to find a good profile will not work. In this case, you will need to select the profile that you like as much as possible.

An existing profile can be modified, namely, adjust the color shift in the shadows, offset and saturation of each of the three main channels. After that, you can create a custom preset by writing only changes related to Camera Calibration into it (when creating a preset, select only the 'Calibration' checkbox).

How to save a preset is described here. During import, you can immediately indicate the use of this preset. In the future, the profile of the camera will be applied to each photograph.

Camera profile

Camera profile

2. I set the lens profile.

The essence of the action: get rid of the imperfections of the lens.

The function is set as follows Develop -> Lens Corrections -> Profile -> Enable Profile Corrections

Everything is simple here. By choosing a lens profile, you can completely get rid of some of the lens flaws. In general this setting allows you to completely cure vignetting and distortion. Also, here are treated chromatic aberration lens. Lightroom has an extensive database of lenses, with which you can "cure" any of them.

If the lens used is not in the list, then you can manually correct these parameters, and then write the result to a preset, which can be applied to all photos.

After this setting, the distortions introduced by the lens should be leveled.

Subsequently, the lens profile will be applied to each photograph.

Lightroom. Lens profile.

Lightroom. Lens profile.

3. Optimize and expand the capabilities of the camera and lens.

The essence of the action: make the most beautiful / desired image through basic manipulations with exposure and color.

Everything is very simple here. Usually I select one key photo from a series or even from a whole shoot and adjust it according to the main parameters:

  • Increase DD - restoration of highlights and shadows (Highlight recovery, Fill light, Dark)
  • Tune colorfulness (Vibrance)
  • Saturation
  • Clarity enhancement
  • Sharpening
  • Noise reduction

The main thing here is not to overdo it... I try to make the photo “neutral-positive” so that all further manipulations are already based on the original “normal” image.

Important: the level of this or that setting strongly depends on the used camera and directly shot frames. For example, I clearly know and understand how strongly this or that slider in Lightroom affects the RAW files of my cameras, and I need to get used to the new camera and the processing of its RAW files.

In the future, these settings will be applied to each photo.

Conventional manipulations

Conventional manipulations

4. I will synchronize all the images with one key photo.

The essence of the action: bring all images under one basic look.

After all the previous manipulations, I sync all the photos with the changed settings. This is done very simply. In the 'Develop' section, all photos in the feed are selected (CTRL + A) and the 'Sync' button is pressed. In the sync menu, I click the 'Check All' button and then uncheck the 'White Balance' (White Balance), 'Crop' (Crop), 'Spot Removal' (Spot correction). The captured parameters do not need to be synchronized, as each photo has its own individual white balance, cropping and spot correction / restoration.

Synchronization is part of batch processing. At the end of it, all photos are adjusted to similar settings.

Lightrum Sync

Lightrum Sync

After this manipulation in the Lightroom tape, all the photos are more or less brought back to normal. The previous four paragraphs allow you to “bring the image to zero” - to save it from the disadvantages of the lens, camera and squeeze the capabilities of the RAW file to the limit. After carrying out these four manipulations, you can already start real fine processing and prepare the image for the final stage, which the client will see.

5. I crop all the photos.

The essence of the action: fix framing flaws - align the horizon, crop the photo with the correct location of details in the frame, cut out key parts of the photo.

Unfortunately, cropping one photo, and applying the crop to all the photos in the tape does not work. After synchronizing the basic settings I crop all photos. During the framing operation, I also selectively delete unsuccessful images from the Lightrum tape.

Important: I highly recommend cropping photos with fixed aspect ratios. The proportions of the classic frame are 3: 2. After cropping, all photos have the same aspect ratio and are no different during viewing. If this is not done, then after cropping, you can get photos-squares, strongly elongated stripes. This is not consistent with the overall style of the tape photos. In addition, during printing, with a 100% probability, parts of the frame will be cropped or filled with white space. Typically printed in standard sizes, which also correspond to 3: 2 proportions. For almost every shoot, I print photos, or mount a photo book, it is very important for me to observe the proportions after cropping. To preserve the framing proportions in Laitrum, just click on the padlock icon.

After cropping and removing unsuccessful frames, I get a “licked” set of photos in my tape, with which you can carry out further manipulations.

Crop in Lightroom while maintaining the original aspect ratio

Crop in Lightroom while maintaining the original aspect ratio

Important: i call all specified actions'Get Zero ', since these simple manipulations allow you to look at the image, devoid of basic imperfections, raw, neutral, like a blank sheet, looking at which you can already carry out further fine processing.

I believe that these manipulations can improve the quality of the original image by 30%. The remaining 60% is the finalization of the image using Adobe Photoshop (Photoshop, not Lightroom).

In my practice, it often happens that after completing just these five points, you can already get a version of the image that can satisfy both me and my clients. Most often, processing is limited to only these five points, if you do not need to retouch photos (eliminating skin imperfections, working with plastic, artistic color correction, etc.).

For me, the most difficult thing in processing is after bringing all the photos from the series / shooting into a digestible form - to choose the best ones for their fine refinement.

6. Export all photos (bonus item)

The essence of the action: get a finished result that can be viewed by any user / client on any device.

In this case, export is the process of exporting photos from RAW format to a format that is suitable for further processing or viewing. If I plan to do nothing else, I export to a pop JPEG format. If I plan to further refine the photos in Adobe Photoshop, then I use the 'TIFF' or 'DNG' format. Recently, laziness has attacked me, I do not use TIFF and I export all photos immediately to JPEG.

Eventually My photo-processing process is divided into two stages: processing in Lightroom and processing in Photoshop. Lightroom - for basic settings, recovery of "spoiled" pictures, batch processing of a tape of photos. Photoshop - for the final "finishing" photos, retouching, manipulations with layers, masks and more.

Philosophy

I am convinced that the photographer should have a clear plan of action, a clear concept, a well-thought-out methodology with step-by-step actions for processing photos. The developed technological process greatly accelerates and simplifies the processing and delivery of finished material to the customer.

Total. My basic processing constructed as follows: import -> set the camera profile -> set the lens profile -> expand the capabilities of the camera / lens -> synchronize the selected settings -> crop -> export... Again - this is the basic process, the basis from which my processing begins.

Thank you for attention. Arkady Shapoval.

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Comments: 121, on the topic: 5 things with which I start processing in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom

  • Maksim

    I still have not found an unambiguous answer for myself which profile in LR is better to set - Camera Standard or Adobe Standard. On some photos, the first one looks prettier, on some - the second profile. I have not yet found any regularities or rules (like for portraits one profile is better, for landscapes - another).
    Does anyone have any practical thoughts on this?
    Other standard profiles (Camerf Portrait, Camera Landscape, Camera Neutral) I do not use at all.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It’s better to set up your own, either to upgrade the existing one, or to customize the profile for each individual shoot.

      • Jury

        Arkady, do you have custom profiles in the LR for the D700, but for the D800, the profiles in the LR are the same? As for the profiles for each shoot, I tried to do it with the help of the colorchecker, the result was worse than LR Adobe Standard (in portraits). At the same time, 9 custom profiles are installed in the camera (from http://nikonpc.com/) and they work great in Capture NX 2, simplifying processing. Your experience in creating profiles for each shoot is interesting.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          As indicated in the article, you can start searching for profiles yourself. I have these under d700 (on flickr.com someone created on the basis of d2x and posted it). For each survey, you can upgrade the existing one using the LR functions.

          • Jury

            All the LR profiles that I found for the D800 were worse than Adobe Standard :)

  • Ruslan

    Dear photographers. Maybe someone came across such a thing as the appearance of graininess and noise after importing into lightroom. All improvements are disabled on the camera, maybe that's why? I don't use any presets or filters when importing. Well, I confess :-( lightroom is not licensed ... Maybe someone had this and managed to solve the problem?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I will give an example with D80, if you go to the noise reduction menu and press the question mark, a hint will pop up:

      Process pictures taken with sensitivity higher than the ISO 400 equivalent to reduce noise (ripple). The capacity of the memory buffer decreases while removing noise from pictures. Please note that when “High” is selected for High ISO N, the noise removal, however, produced with a sensitivity above ISO 800, although the amount of noise removed is reduced.

      Thus, the on-camera jeep (or the built-in jeep in the rav file) on many cameras will always show a picture with suppressed noise. Lightroom will always show a naked result.

  • Eugene

    Arkady, thanks for the article.
    But in all your work there is one very significant disadvantage - it is very difficult to read articles without a magnifier. The very fine print you are using. Difficult to read.
    In general, thanks.
    Regarding LR: I would recommend cropping at the beginning, since after processing the photo, the process may be slowed down due to the weakness of the computer.
    Another tip: if the conversion does not want to be carried out (again, due to limited resources), it is better to do it in the Library tab, not Develop. Then the file will definitely go for conversion.

    • pchel

      Maybe your scale is not 100%? I read on different computers with different resolutions and DPI, everywhere is normal.
      Hold Ctrl and spin up the mouse wheel.

      • Eugene

        Thanks. Now it is better. KTRL steers. Why didn’t I know about such a trick?
        Arkady, like Vyusonic VP2365 is a good monik. IPS is he.

    • BB

      zoom in on the page. I have a 24 ″ monitor, and my vision is not very good - the scale is always 125%, and if I'm tired, then I increase it to 150%. (in general, you can put an extension that will increase the font on all sites to the specified one)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I think that nowadays it is not worth saving on a weak computer. The computer is part of a working tool. Weak computer - weak photos. Where on a normal computer you will have time to make 10 settings, on a weak computer - 2-3, as a result, the final image will be worse. Of course, I look at this from the perspective of a professional photography career.
      As for the font, for 6 years, the first one to whom its size is not enough.

  • Oleg

    I use Camera RAW and then a little Photoshop. The actions are almost the same (probably there were some lessons-)). Indeed, in most cases, these actions are enough.
    Arkady, tell me, what is the difference between Lightroom and Camera RAW? And is it worth it to reinstall lr and change habits? -)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      LR from ACR is distinguished by the convenience of batch processing, presets, and cataloging of material.

  • Oleg

    Thanks. As I understand it, for an amateur, there are enough pictures in the ACR home collection. I will fold them to the Faststoun computer, there is a raw preview and from it the ACR automatically opens with the E key.
    Maybe you are interested, there is a simple batch cropping / size cutter for jpeg in faststone, because often for the home collection there are no processing except compression for storage.
    I will describe my amateur path:
    I rent raw + jpeg.
    1. Using Faststoun, I’ll drop it all on the computer (when I fold it, I batch change the file names to date / time). Then all the pictures over the years.
    2. Viewing the discarded on a computer, removing 80-90% raw (then I process the best).
    3. View / delete (20-30%) jpeg. I compress the remnants of the same Faststoun to A4 and 300 dpi and add daddies in years.
    4. And processed in RAW in a separate daddy, such as the best-)
    something like this…

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Thank you :)

    • Alexander

      Almost all capchers have been tried. None of them caught on. Faststoun is the main tool. Sees RAW. There is everything for color and light correction (within reason).

  • anonym

    For advertising photography, photographing objects and other pleasures, NOT a WEDDING LR and photoshop (plus you can add Corel) are the most. No damn thing needed.

    • Lynx

      how ra s for the wedding man.

  • Dmitriy

    It is possible to create profiles yourself, and this process is described step by step on the Internet, but I believe that you need to have perfectly clean glasses, a matrix, etc. Plus a lot of time.
    Therefore, to simplify, add my 5 cents.
    Download and install Adobe Air. Then we can install “Adobe Lens Profile Downloader” (here https://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=192&platform=Windows) I note that it is legal and free.
    We are looking for the required or similar lens with the required or similar camera model. In fact, distortion correction for models from different companies is similar (say, for 10-24 mm models), the picture is similar for D300 and D7100 (the same Tamron 10-24 mm for D300 will work for D7100). You can install a similar profile by clicking on the "download" button.
    Camera and lens profiles should be inserted into one of the%: \ Program Files \ Adobe \ Adobe Photoshop Lightroom xx \ Resources \ (LensProfiles or CameraProfiles) folders.
    I ask you not to throw me slippers: it’s clear that different cameras and lenses have different distortions, chromatic aberrations, and so on. But who bothers you after moving the profile to the picture to move the sliders and adjust the ideal, in your opinion, profile and save it? The laws of optical physics are unchanged for any manufacturers, which is a definite plus. Do not forget about additional information in the form of image type (raw or jpeg) and crop factor (1 or 1,5, 1,6).
    Accordingly, I make the correction for the lens easier: I sort all the pictures according to the model of the lens, then I immediately adjust the group of pictures for the lens, then I start some kind of processing.

  • Vitaliy U

    Arkady clearly sounded the idea of ​​the importance of the profile. And this is also a TA poser (choose the desired profile for your (!) Camera) ... especially when you observe the default color from the cameras of “new buildings” (the brand does not matter). I had hemorrhoids with Nikon D7000 (the color from it), although both D7100 and D800-810, D750 did not go far from him. All possible equal converters were installed, but the result was +/- the same ... until I got RT (equal therapy). Still changed the camera (d700), but even the color with d7000 “went”, albeit with difficulty. I think the main disadvantage of RT is the lack of batch processing, it will be hard for commerce. There is also such a beast as RPP (it handles such “monsters” as Tsikh, for example), but RT suits me completely, for now. In the Republic of Lithuania, I process raves from Fuja Peripherals, if I screw up the BB is the only converter (except for the native one) that sees both Fujian pixels. And so, the fact that the LR, that the AKP is one program, but with a different interface.

  • gOuTM

    In general, it’s quite funny that no one remembered Capture One, which in the 9th version gives a lot of opportunities.

    Personally, I have always liked Capture1 better than Lightroom. Potow no matter what I did - Lightroom always made the picture a little more contrasting than was required. I also really did not like the dirt that Lightroom left in the shadows: the transitions to the shadow always turned out to be dirty, blurry and rather untidy. Generally unpleasant. However, I still remember the “live histogram” of Lightroom, which has always been much more convenient for me than trying to hit the sliders with the mouse.

    At first, Capture1 seems somewhat unusual, and even a little anachronistic - for example, there is still no function to compare options before / after. For this, like many years ago, it is required to create a new variant (F7). Quite inconvenient, but I can't help myself, because for me, the result justifies these inconveniences. Yes, I have a Nikon D80 camera.

    I can’t say 100% that this is a unique feature, but quite often Keystone is a life-saving tool for correcting perspectives. Studio photographers still praise working with color, especially with skintone, but I can’t say anything.

  • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

    "I am sure that for a large number of cameras it will not be possible to find a good profile."
    I do not understand why there are no profiles for each of the camera models?
    Or are the individual instances of a particular model so different?
    Or is it about taste preferences?

    There are a lot of presets on the network, but we are talking about obtaining specific effects, rather than basic settings close to the settings of a particular model.

  • Boogie

    I process it in CameraRAW, there is no money to buy lightroom)) I spent everything on the purchase of Mac pro 6.1.
    For me, the Rav camera is more convenient and simple, I do not want to return to the lightroom.

  • Konstantin

    They have the same engine)

  • Quickvox

    I am doing another basic setup. Before starting to crop, I mark all the pictures and set the rating to all to 2 stars. And I select from 2 * and higher in filters. In the process of framing, I mark very bad 1 * frames and they are removed from the tape and do not interfere, but are not deleted from the PC, which allows you to return them when there is a very big need. I also mark with 3 * those pictures that need processing parts in the FS and export them otzhelno from the rest which greatly speeds up the processing and there is no loop in one place!

  • anonym

    Thank you very much for the simple and clear explanation.

  • Oleg

    Faced a problem, did not notice before.
    Capture NX-D when converting raw to jpeg makes the color the same as it was in raw.

    In Lightroom, alas, it is not possible to achieve such colors and the sky is of a different shade and the grass, and in general everything is somehow different. And camera profiles don't help. For example, the “camera standart” calibration preset produces different results in Capture NX-D much better color, but differently in Adobe Lightroom. I like Adobe Lightroom more for convenience, but I like the color from Capture NX-D.

    How to make Lightroom give the same color? I don’t understand, I haven’t found any profiles.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      The answer is no way. Exactly this result cannot be achieved for all frames. Manual finishing of each specific file will help a little. Nikon cameras write about 100 parameters for color correction that LR, ACR and other converters do not understand.

      • Oleg

        Thank you for the clarification.

  • Igor

    Do not tell me on this issue - I installed Lightroom, I open the program for the first time, i.e. no settings have been made yet, I import the image and go to Develop, and there it is like in the attached file. I tried different versions of Lightroom, different jpeg and raw (Sony) - everything is the same.
    Why? And what to do with these?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      There is a checkmark “original photo” next to the histogram, this will disable channel color display.

      • Igor

        Thanks for the answer! But nothing has changed ((

        • Lynx

          1. Download the official trial.
          2. check the graphics card drivers?

    • Igor

      Found what was the problem!
      Unchecked "Use Graphics Processor" - everything worked.
      Although System Info had “Check OpenGL support: Passed”

      • Maria

        I have the same problem .. I can not find where to shoot it? I have it in Russian)

        • Maria

          found: D

          • Alice

            Maria, tell me where? You are welcome

          • Mikola

            Mariya p_dkazhіt de take a tick?

  • Alexey

    In my opinion, you need to crop first.

  • Alexey

    Do you export to jeepeg with the highest resolution from the original and with what quality?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Original size (if there was no cropping) with maximum quality.

  • Sergei

    Arkady, Thank you for your work. A lot of practical and intelligible information. Finding a profile for a camera is very difficult. In the Camera Calibration section, you have a D2XMODE1 profile, as I understand it, you installed it separately. Share where to look and where to look for it.

  • Yuliya

    Hello. If it’s easy, please tell me what to do when Lightroom does not want to open NEF with Nikon D7100. Lightroom version 5.6. He reads them, but when he tries to import, he reports that he can not do this. How to persuade him? ) Thank you in advance.

  • Andrei

    I wonder what the processing in Photoshop comes to if I added sharpness in the lightroom and exported it to a jeep, which should be done at the final stage of retouching.

  • Alexey

    Somehow in the lightroom, it seems like you can configure the default settings, for example, the Neutral profile, so that every time you do not select it.

  • Vladimir

    Arkady, tell me, I select the profile in LR the same as on the camera (standard), but it turns out anyway a big difference with the development in Capture NX.

    • Vladimir

      How to deal with this?

      • Alexey

        Standard standard strife. Each editor, including intracamera ones, has its own algorithms for working with source information (working with color, sharpness, etc.). Why fight this?

        • Vladimir

          The fact that I like the left image (from Capture NX-D) much more than the right one from LR and during processing I would like to build on the left option. The article says that choosing a camera profile should help in this case, but it didn’t help me much. Maybe there are some other ways to approach this result, for example, slip a profile from another camera (which one?) Or find someone else’s homemade profile (where?). I have a D5100. For the sake of interest, I downloaded raw from the Internet with d750, and it looks very similar in these two programs.

          • Alexey

            A familiar situation (there used to be d5100 and the question of choosing an editor))).
            The camera has little to do with a raw RAW file shot under “normal” conditions (good lighting and correct exposure). The RAWs of the same volume look about the same.
            Changing the profile for the camera in LR can help when working with this image, but it will not work for another image.
            In Capture NX-D, by the way, the default profile for working with color is “nikon…. Some numbers”. If you assign the sRGB profile IEC61966-2.1, then the picture will be approximately similar to the picture from LR or ACR (but you need the opposite ...).
            In general, looking for a universal profile is a thankless job. It is more efficient to spend time mastering at least basic color correction.
            But if you need “here and now”, then try first changing the camera profile or LR to AdobeRGB - the colors will become brighter.

            • Vladimir

              It is clear that there is nowhere to get away from color correction, but I don't want to do extra work when Adobe announces cooperation with Nikon. By the way, the problem does not always manifest itself, some frames are quite comparable, sometimes in LR the colors are more saturated. Usually, cloudy footage has problems. In cloudy weather, or when there are just clouds in the sky. If the sky is blue, everything is fine. Maybe some kind of exposure problem or bb?

              • Alexey

                Their cooperation is in the mutual correct interpretation of files (he said!). We have no profit from this.
                As for the extra work, yes, if the processing volumes are large. But if you have time to master color correction, then most tasks are completed faster and faster. In addition, operations can be recorded for images of the same type and applied to the entire series. And in the process of learning, you understand that you need to shoot correctly from the beginning, so as not to toil later))).
                As for the exposure and the BB, they are interconnected. When shooting, the camera's exposure meter does not always correctly (as we would like) choose the so-called. white or other neutral area, hence the flaws in the work of the autoBB (especially when the lighting is difficult - shadow or bright light sources in the field of view of the lens). The question is solved by manually adjusting the BB or subsequent correction.

  • Fedor

    If we talk about the first steps in batch processing, then it's probably worth mentioning the very first steps - merging raw files onto a screw and renaming files.
    I use the Nikon Transfer program to merge from the camera to the screw, in it I set the template once, according to which the files are simultaneously renamed according to the shooting date-time.
    There is often an opinion on the network that it is not worth using Nikon Transfer, because in the process of transfer, the Nikon Transfer program makes some changes to the files, as a result of which they may then not be opened by other programs, such as Photoshop. Has anyone come across this?

    If you transfer files to the screw using a card reader, then who in what way further solves the problem of renaming files?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I use the same HR, thoughts here.

    • Alexey

      Everything opens, especially with Photoshop (either immediately, or through ACR).
      I use a bridge, the transfer settings are configured there, incl. and renaming files.

  • Dmitry

    Good day. Arkady, please tell me where to find the profile on nikon d3100 for lightroom 4.3 for converting from raw. Or is it better to use the native nikon nx utility for this task?

    • Valentine

      Install the free Adobe DNG converter, it will put on the computer all the available fresh profiles for cameras and lenses. Your LR or ACR will pick up these profiles. Another option is to extract the profiles of individual cameras and glasses from the installation package and independently slip them into the program folder.

      • Dmitry

        I tried, but nothing came of it.

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English-version of this article https://radojuva.com/en/2016/03/5-main-lightroom-settings-yui/comment-page-2/