Overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless camera in the hands of an amateur. Review from the reader Radozhiva.

Review Fuji X-T10 prepared Lynx which is an editor Happy. This review is also available on his website. here. Anonymous, remember, Lynx doesn't look like some!

Review Fujifilm X-T10

An overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless in the hands of an amateur, as well as: "mirrorless versus DSLRs - yes or no?"

All amusing nonsense is exclusively a lynx imha,

and based on the subjective experience of filming

to SLR and mirrorless cameras.

If you answer to the main question of the life of the universe and in general briefly and immediately - it all strongly depends on the requirements. In a considerable number of cases, the X-T10 / X-T1 is a very good replacement for an amateur DSLR (that's it, you don't have to read any further;)).

The exceptions, it seems to me, are:

• professional reportage and its most difficult types (just do not confuse it with “reporter shooting” from pop concerts, performances of a children's sports school and club photos);
• art and fashion shooting with high detail and shallow depth of field (if you have money for a medium format and optics for it, as well as understanding why this is necessary, this article is completely not for you)
• Carrying a “cool cool DSLR” to impress customers and generally the feeling of working with “serious equipment” (yes, the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras are peculiar, and the look often “does not inspire confidence in“ serious people ”).

Most of the performance characteristics (matrices, dimensions, weight, etc.) can be viewed on the Internet, read the praises of the “original fuji matrix with a non-Bayer filter” (with which lightroom still works buggy, by the way) and learned phrases that “now you don’t need to wear a lot , and shoot for your own pleasure. "
Focus on honestly subjective.

Focusing

The most asked and controversial topic. The X-T10 has hybrid focusing - contrast focusing throughout the entire field of the frame, plus phase focusing along the central part of the frame, the coverage area of ​​the phase sensors is approximately comparable to those of Nikon D600. When choosing focus points, hybrid points are highlighted a little brighter than the rest. Focusing is fast, although it depends a lot on the lens, however, as always.

It is said that in cramped light conditions, the camera completely switches to contrast focusing, disabling the phase sensors. True or not, I don't know.

A very convenient option is to move around the frame not only one focus point, but also the “focus area” to several points, with adjustable size and proportions. A similar function (only without quick adjustment of the area) exists in professional DSLRs (for Nikon - starting with D200).

Usually, in mirrorless cameras, the joystick is configured like a “soap dish” - each button is assigned some action: changing the ISO / white balance / modes / selecting focus points. In the X-T10, in addition to this mode, you can turn on the “mode like a DSLR” - that is, four joystick buttons are immediately responsible for moving the focus point / area. And assign the desired adjustable parameters to the user settings screen - “Q”:

Focus Modes M / S / C? There is. Switch lever to the right of the bayonet. Classic.

Focusing with tracking objects on the frame field (what is called 3D focus in nikon)? There is. Although, it depends on the settings and contrast of the objects.

Face-based focusing? There is. In combination with the previous paragraph, it is very convenient to shoot children at play. And the ability to choose focusing according to the eyes, moreover, to choose from - on the left or right eye ...

Is the speed and focusing fast enough for amateur photography and general reportage? Definitely yes. At least, the focusing speed is not inferior (and sometimes exceeds in accuracy in dark conditions) the speed of my old s5pro, d90, d7000 and 3xxx / 5xxx series. Perhaps it may not be enough for professional reporting, but how many of those reading this are filming the Olympic Games?

A couple of subtleties:

1. When shooting with continuous AF, the shutter mode must be “mechanical”. If the "electronic" or "electronic / mechanic" modes are selected, the focusing in the series will be performed on the first frame.
2. There is such a very useful option as increasing the frame at the focus point by pressing the rear control dial (when viewing the footage it also works, by the way). Relevant for both manual and automatic focusing modes. Alas, it works only when focusing "one point".

Ergonomics

Just want to warn about one important point in the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras in general and “dozens” in particular. Unlike DSLRs, these are more like “left hand cameras”.
That is, it is easy to carry the camera “on the fingertips of the right hand " you are unlikely to succeed - your fingers will cramp, especially with a massive lens. The only exceptions are the configurations with a "kit", and 18 and 27 mm "pancakes". And this is the very feeling that the use of professional mirrors gives: "the camera is like an extension of the hand!" - will also be absent.

Despite some "oblique" models of the X-T series "for DSLRs" - all these thumb rests, a ledge on the pediment and other tricks, the principle of wearing system cameras is noticeably different from the central locking system. The first time you have to relearn.

An additional battle block / grip can partially correct the situation (at the same time making the camera more massive), bringing the ergonomics closer to the "mirror" one, but alas, for the X-T10 it is not provided even for the Chinese.
If only to do it yourself. ;)
From my current point of view, a Chinese leather sheath is enough. People with affluence and desire can buy the original case and additional grip from Fuji. Today it is about 4500 rubles for each point.

For those who have spent a lot of time shooting with film SLRs and rangefinders (or had experience working with puppies;)), they will only have to remember old skills.

So, the X-T10 is held in the left hand. Quite, just like the old zenith (or puppy): the thumb and forefinger form a “fork” for gripping and holding the lens, and the palm and other fingers hold the camera from below. It is comfortable, practical, leaves the right hand free, and protects the camera.
Yes, if you want to shoot with the camera stretched out and holding it in your right hand, this is a trick. However, with many lenses it will be difficult. Carrying in the left hand is much more convenient.

The complete neck strap, like most cameras, is hard. But high quality. True quality. And without the huge inscription "HEY PASSANS - HERE IS A DUDE WITH A MAGAZINE CAMERA!" So you can take a little time to knead it and get it fit.

If the neck strap is uncomfortable for you - I recommend putting a synthetic or leather wrist strap on the left - the belay and grip will definitely improve.

In general, Fuji and Olympus mirrorless cameras, with their ergonomics, dictate a slightly different shooting style than CZK. But we will consider the article “the influence of the type of camera on the psychological aspects of artistic creation” another time.

All buttons (except perhaps for the video recording button) are convenient and accessible, they are easily found blindly, they are pressed with good response, but without excessive stiffness.

The control wheels (both front and rear), in addition to rotation, can be pressed like buttons. On the front you can select an action, the back, by pressing, increases the focus area in full screen.

Turning on the camera - with a rotary lever around the shutter button, everything is like in Nikon.

All Fuji mirrorless cameras are used to control the exposure pair and modes: the aperture is set on the lens, and on the camera body - excerpt and exposure compensation. True, for several inexpensive lenses that do not have an aperture ring, the exposure is made by the control wheels, as in Nikon.
И excerpt and the diaphragm have the “A” position - auto in the extreme positions. By placing them in the “A” position in different combinations, we get modes M, A, S and P. Everything is simple and convenient.

In case you need to hand the camera into the hands of someone who is not familiar with the intricacies of shooting, there is an “auto” lever under the shutter speed dial, which turns the camera into “green” mode with tracking autofocus.

By the way, the mode is quite hysterical - for some reason it has a constant, non-disconnectable, tracking autofocus, so the lens constantly buzzes and fidgets. As it turned out, unprepared people are unnerved, as if they were given a small nimble animal.

On the left, on the top panel, there is a drive for selecting drive modes (single frame, fast and slow series), two types of brackets (according to exposure, types of films and more. Configured in the menu) of two types of filters (about them below), as well as panoramic shooting and multiple exposure... The latter is very conveniently implemented - after shooting the first frame, it is superimposed on the screen with a translucent background, so that you can see the combination of images.

Viewfinder and screen

The screen is typical for the present time, just over three inches, with good color rendering and angles. I recommend sticking a matte protective film or glass - it will be much more convenient to work under the bright sun. Leans back with the help of the protrusions on the left (they cling well with the nail of the index finger), down 45 and up 90 degrees.
Viewfinder… I've seen different viewfinders, both in old Fuji models, in sony-nex babies and in new Olympus. To be honest - this is the best! Both in colors and in detail. Subjectively, it is only slightly smaller than the viewfinder of a full-frame DSLR, but larger than on the crop, especially the “younger” one.

The viewfinder and screen can be switched using the proximity sensor and have 4 modes:

• Only the screen works (constantly)
• Only the viewfinder works (constantly)
• The screen works, but when brought to the eye (about 5-7 cm), it switches to the viewfinder
• Only the viewfinder works, but it turns on only when brought to the eye.

The “sleep” button is badly lacking, as it is, for example, implemented in modern cell phones - every time you click the switch gets tired.

Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings and the quick user menu”.

As befits mirrorless, not related to technical parameters JVI - both the screen and the viewfinder can display a lot, a lot of any additional information, starting with ISO / shutter speed / aperture and ending with the virtual horizon and three types of manual focus assistance.
The main advantage EVI (and screen) Fuji was able to display the space with the already selected settings.

For example, if you shoot in manual mode and you twist the shutter speed and aperture too much, the camera will show you an almost black screen. Or strongly overexposed, depending on the parameters.

And using the exposure compensation wheel (located on the top of the camera, on the right), you can easily choose the lighting of the frame, for example, when shooting an evening city - from light twilight to deep night with lights.

Menu

Everything is simple, convenient, concise, with a bunch of possible fine-tuning "for yourself".
The menu logic is closest to Nikon's - a vertical column of squares a1-a5 / s1-s3 to the left and pop-up menus from it. In the Russian version, you sometimes have to pry into the instructions what certain abbreviations mean. But in general, everything is clear.

Lenses

The first and most important thing about Fuji system lenses is that almost all of them are tops. Yes, that's right, there are practically no “cheap and compromise” glasses in fujiks, with the exception of a 27 mm fixer and several “whales” of standard focal lenses (16-50 and 55-200). And even in this case, the simplest 16-55 / 3,5-5,6 produces a very, very good picture.
Most of the fixes have aperture f / 1,4, some at f / 2, zooms from f / 2,8. The construction is almost always all-metal, without any rubber bands and plastic.
About any of the Fuji lenses, we can say: "Matsash in hands, sweep - a thing!"
The advantage of this approach is the fact that you really want to shoot with any of the lenses without bothering. The downside is the price. Who wants to be horrified by modern prices - welcome to the Yandex market.

Fuji lenses feature electronic control rings - transmission of zoom, aperture and focusing parameters is not mechanical, but electronic. On the one hand, it allows you to make smooth adjustment when shooting a video, as well as full dust and moisture resistance of the lens. On the other hand, you will also have to get used to this, the reaction of the lenses is not as unambiguous as with mechanical control.

But there is a fairly large stroke of the focus ring, about two turns from MDF to infinity, which gives great opportunities when shooting.

I happened to shoot on 4 lenses of the Fujifilm system:

1. 16-50 / 3,5-5,6. The standard and most common whale. Plastic, although the design completely repeats the older brothers. There is no aperture ring - aperture and stabilizer control - from the carcass, like in a DSLR. The first version was boring in drawing, but not bad in sharpness (it is often preferred to the more expensive 18-55 / 2,8-4), the second - they say even better, but I have not yet got my hands on it. Built-in good stabilizer.
2. 35 / 1,4. Amazing "normal" lens. Sharpness, drawing, constructive - everything is on top! Completely metallic. Has a diaphragm ring. It can be safely recommended as a standard and main lens for creative and family photography.
3. 23 / 1,4. Very nice shirik with a huge aperture and no less enormous price. Cut across the entire field almost immediately from the open. For its characteristics, it is quite compact, although not easy, all the same it is a metal structure. Switching to manual mode - like on Tokina lenses - you need to pull the focusing wheel towards you, opening the distance scale and depth of field. Among the shortcomings - except that the focusing ring and aperture rotate very easily, sometimes they get confused by a simple touch with a finger.
4. 18/2. Reporting staff. EGF - 27 mm, classic reportage focal length of film times. Often they swear at him that he lathers the edges on an open aperture, but personally this does not really bother me. But it is very compact (the camera fits in a jacket pocket with it), relatively inexpensive and fast in focusing. And it also has its own, quite soulful pattern with volume. The focus and aperture rings are metal, with a tight, pleasant ride.

Accumulators

Yes, they do not last long - from 300 to 600 frames (someone mentioned 1000), depending on the mode of use, and you need to monitor / turn off the camera so that it does not eat too much (although there is a sleep timer). Yes, it's best to always have a spare with you. Yes, it is better to take the original, and not China (which are at least a third less capacious, and in general can glitch or burn out at any time. Yes, this is not cheap - the original now costs about 1,6-2,5 thousand (although you can manage to take it in within a thousand with all sorts of discounts).
Battery charging time is about an hour and a half in a situation "Oh, I ought to charge!" and about two are able "Well, everyone, we have arrived".

About color and light

Canonists, judging by the reviews on the forum, do not notice any losses in the dynamic range when switching to fujik. In flowers - they are very happy.
Nikonists, especially those with multi-pixel cameras (D610 / D7100), may find the dynamic range in jeepgs to be too small in highly contrasting scenes. But the raves are practically the same "stringy" as those of Nikon, and the colors and skin tone are undoubtedly better.

An example is a jeep without treatment, a jeep with extended shadows at +100 in lightrum, and a rav with extended shadows at +100 in lightroom:

Personally, after the "soak", with its huge DD in the jeepgs, I had to remember about raves and master Capture One, but the colors did not disappoint.

Flash work

With outbreaks, Fuji is a little complicated and a bit simple.

Difficult - because the system is new, and the models of third-party manufacturers of TTL-flashes for them - the cat cried, now there is only Meike-320 - a small two-battery, but quite successful model and Nissin-40i - a classic model with a swivel head, although the dimensions are slightly smaller than usual ...

Simply - because there are only three “native” flashes, you will not get confused:

• EF-42, amateur classic flash, analogue of sb-700 - 4 batteries, swivel and lifting head, guide number - 42. There is autofocus illumination, but no remote control system. For mirrorless cameras - definitely large and inconvenient. Apparently it was developed "in spite of mirror makers."
• EF-20, small dual-battery flash with the ability to "swing up". Control - through the camera menu, the guide number is 20. It couldn't be easier and, to be honest, uglier too.
• EF-X20, a tiny “matchbox”, a guide number of 20, control - a single power and correction wheel on the top edge, a power button and a “Test” button. No zoom, no rotations, only built-in wide-angle adapter with lever. Among the shortcomings - perhaps not too fast a recharge cycle: 5-6 seconds at 1/1 power, and almost instantaneous starting from 1/4 and below. In addition to TTL and manual mode, it has the ability to remotely ignite from the built-in flash. The most stylish and convenient of the three (yes, it has AAA batteries, so you need a spare one).
• There are rumors about a new "reporting" outbreak from Fuji, but so far there are no clear descriptions yet.

EF-X20 with cover:

X-T10 Flash Remote Control:

1. for EF-X20 - by “ignition” from the built-in flash, in manual mode. At the same time, the bottom of the flash has a switch for TTL-mode, manual tracking, and “P” tracking mode, which apparently allows the flash not to react to “red-eye preflashes”. Well, studio / manual flashes are naturally also “ignited”.
2. By sync cable, by hot shoe. They say that cables from the Canon system are suitable, but the arrangement of the contacts on the shoe is somewhat different from the Canon ones. Nikon's TTL cable doesn't fit exactly. Perhaps the so-called. A “universal TTL cable” would be the best solution in this situation.
3. Radio synchronizers via hot shoe. Any - for manual modes, or possibly E-TTL for Canon system (info not verified).

Fuji EF-X20 and studio chinese flash:

A little trick that helps you not to worry about the invertedness of the flash:

With a forehead flash:

And with a reflector from a piece of foil:

As a means of holding foil paper, in increasing efficiency: fingers, elastic band for money, magnetic strip (bought in an advanced store for printers or from manufacturers of magnets)

For integrated flash X-T10, in the menu, has only 4 operating modes:

• "Forced" is a simple TTL mode. Before operating, the flash must be raised with the lever on the left of the top panel.
• Slow sync.
• 2-curtain sync - read "rear curtain"
• Commander Command mode. Alas, fujah has nothing like Nikon's CLS, in this mode the flash works with a minimum power sufficient only for ignition external flash.
• Disabled flash. Why this item is needed, as well as the first one - I am lost in conjecture (after all, the flash fires only if it is raised), most likely the menu is as unified as possible with other camera models, and these items are intended for cameras with non-liftable flashes - to disable / enable them in this way. However, when this menu item is selected, the raised flash will not fire.

Additional built-in flash settings:

• Flash exposure compensation +2 0 -2, in increments of 1/3.
• Enabling disabling the “remove red eyes” mode. Moreover, it was implemented not by pre-flashes, as usual, but at the software level - the automation detects the face and “blackens the pupils”.
• There is no manual mode.

Since the viewfinder (and the screen) shows the picture in accordance with the selected exposure pair and exposure compensation, allowing you to select shooting parameters in real time, for working with flashes and in the studio, the “screen” menu has a “view exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. When you turn it off EVI and the screen starts working as usual JVI... This function can be assigned to function keys “Fn”, but it cannot be assigned to Custom Menu “Q”.

Wi-fi

Wireless communication in the X-T10 has four functions:

1. Work with tablets and smartphones. Android and Ios.
2. Autosave to the computer.
3. Impressing geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone.
4. Intax wireless wearable printer.

Work with tablets and smartphones.

Everything is very simple and fast. The application database (googleplay and applestory) has an application. It is downloaded, installed, configured, and now, each time you turn on Wi-Fi in your smartphone and Fujik, and confirm the connection in the camera, you get 4 functions:

• Copying / receiving (not moving!) Selected photos to a smartphone (the camera has a function “transfer a compressed file”) In this mode, you need to select which photos to transfer and which not to transfer on the camera screen.
• View camera memory. The same as the previous point, only in this case all copying and selection control takes place from the smartphone screen. Basically, it is a choice “what to put back in your pocket - a camera or a smartphone?”.
• Shooting control - aiming, shutter release, changing shooting parameters - iso, excerpt, flash mode, timer, photo or video, correction exposure and so on.
• Geotagging - transferring the coordinates of the current location to the camera when shooting.

The connection is almost instantaneous. When working with a camera, working with the Internet via Wi-Fi on the smartphone is automatically blocked.
Among the shortcomings - every time after executing a menu item, when returning to the selection of items, you have to reconnect.
This function can be assigned to one of the function buttons “Fn”

PC autosave

A special autosave program is downloaded from the Fuji website (versions for Win and Ios), and, when installed, is assigned to startup, in standby mode. At the same time, you need to configure a network connection on the camera (name / password or several other methods) - through a home wifi router or access point. The network settings are then saved in the camera's memory. Up to six wifi- networks can be stored.
For autosave, you need to go to the photo view mode, and select the item “autosave on pc” there. It takes about 20-30 seconds to connect and authorize in the autosave program, and another half a minute to check and copy 10-20 jpg files.
Unfortunately, you cannot assign autosave either to function keys or to the custom menu.

Imprinting geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone

Everything is simple here - you turn on the GPS on your smartphone, run the same connection program, and it transmits the tags for recording to EXIF any freshly shot frame. At the same time it displays on the screen an icon “landmarks received”. For some reason, it is indicated that “the time of continuous operation is 1 hour”.

Instax SHARE SP-1 Wireless Wearable Printer

Photo - honestly stolen from the official website of the manufacturer.

This is a very funny idea from Fujifilm, based on their modern Instax Polaroid cameras. It is a printed block from a similar camera with a projector screen inside, a wi-fi module and powered by a pair of batteries.
Dimensions: 101,6 mm x 42 mm x 122,5 mm, weight: 253 g (without battery and film), hung with a clip on a belt.
The price is about 8-9 thousand rubles for January 2015.
Pictures are taken in size 46 * 62 mm, plus a white frame like a polaroid.
It feeds on cassettes from Fujifilm "a la Polaroid", for 10 pictures (type "mini"), the price of 4-5 hundred rubles each.
Whoever has read this far is already well done!
Basically, this amusement is needed for all sorts of parties, and for paid photo shoots, when in half a minute, during the shooting, you can make several “photos for a purse” - a pleasant surprise for the customer. Well, or you can make a concept exhibition.

Other

Film Profiles and Job Emulation

The camera has half a dozen preset color profiles, mostly imitating certain types of film, including the legendary kodak chrome and classic sepia. Moreover, it shows them immediately in the viewfinder when shooting. And also - 7 options for user settings (in which film profiles are just one of the adjustable parameters). Any of these can be switched through the quick menu or by assigned function keys, by the combination “pressed the button-turned the wheel / clicked the joystick”. The fun options that can be assigned to the left “tower” are black and white with only one color tolerance - red, yellow, blue, green and orange.

Memory cards

One of the differences between x-t10 and x-t1 is frame buffer... In X-T10, it is limited to about 8-10 frames, and after that the camera thinks about recording to a USB flash drive. In many forums it is recommended (and I agree) to spend on a high-speed card, with a speed of at least 80-95 Mbps. The recording lag drops significantly - at a slow serial speed, the card overflow does not occur at all, at a fast speed it starts to slow down after the tenth or twelfth frame.
No, some inexpensive card, like the Transcend Class 10, is not fast and slows down a lot. The recording speed must be indicated on the card (or in the description). Some kind of SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB (or better 32) is good enough.

The most “continuous-rapid-fire” option is the “jeep-normal” option with the minimum file size and all the enhancements disabled - about 20 frames (2,5 seconds) of continuous shooting without slowing down the speed.

True, all of the above concerns the jpg format, in raw - a camera with a fast card slows down the shooting speed somewhere after the tenth frame in a slow burst and after the sixth or seventh in a fast burst (but does not stop shooting!).

XNUMXrd party lenses

Through the appropriate adapters are put almost any. The most common adapters on the M42, on the M39, Nikon and Canon. Alas, for autofocus glasses, the iris control (and even more so the focusing drive or zoom) will not work. Of particular interest is the possibility of using interesting rangefinder glasses.

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS (via Fuji-M42 adapter)

Lens caps

Uncomfortable, and slip out of your fingers. Classic "a la nikon" is much more practical. But it's easier to put a good protective filter and forget about the covers.

Wishes to the developers of Fujifilm:

1. menu item "view exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. - very much needed in the “custom Q menu”.
2. the function “connect to tablet” and “autosave” need to be added to “custom Q screen”
3. I really need a "sleep" button under duress, or at least setting in the sleep timing menu not only for 2 and 5 minutes - they are too long.
4. Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings, and the quick user menu”. - as it is already implemented with the mode of viewing pictures. And then, setting the "viewfinder only" mode, it is impossible to adjust the shooting parameters on the screen, and to shoot - only through the viewfinder, as on DSLRs.
5. On the button / command "turn on wi-fi" you need to make a choice - they will connect to a tablet or computer / other networks (and not scatter it into two commands in two different menus), otherwise you have to climb each menu to turn on autosave in order to throw off a pair -three photo. Well, it connects for a long time, unfortunately. Maybe what kind of usb-wifi device to release so that it can be plugged into the computer - and it immediately connects the camera, with the same program as in smartphones?

Price and consistency

Alas and ah, the option “I'll go to a mirrorless camera, everything is cheaper and better there” is a myth.
If you completely switch to a mirrorless system, with native lenses, automation and convenience, you will have to spend money.

I'll make a reservation right away - yes, there are inexpensive solutions for a narrow range of tasks.

For example, for “purely manual work with high-quality color” there is a very suitable and relatively inexpensive fuji X-m1 on the secondary market. For 12-17 thousand, subject to the purchase of a used one, you get a tiny pocket crop-1,5, with a proprietary matrix, a set of adapters for the main systems (M42, M39, watering can, Nikon), a manual focusing system, Wi-Fi and a folding screen ... If you add your own “whale” 16-50 / 3,5-5,6 for 10 rubles - you have a device for creative, studio shooting and family holidays.

For street photography, the pocket and inexpensive Sony nex 5, 6, 7 versions, or A5100 are quite suitable. With pancake or whale. Or Olympus pen-series (starting with five).

Actually, a mirrorless inexpensive (at the price of a younger SLR) system for "Film the family and put the camera back in your pocket" these are non-top small models of Olympus / Sony / Fuji / Panasonic - without a viewfinder, with a rotating screen and a whale / pancake included (in the case of Olympus, a whale-pancake).

But! If you build a universal system with the optimal set of functions, good focus and automatic lenses, forget about the savings regarding DSLRs.

I'll give you a concrete example.
To switch to Fuji, I had to sell:

• fuji s5 pro (mileage 83 thousand, butler 3 batteries);
• 35-105/3,5-4,5 - 16000 rubles;
• nikon 35 / 1,8g - 6500 rubles;
• nikon 100 / 2,8E - 3500 rubles (I still regret the sale);
• 3 pieces SB-700 10-11 thousand rubles (one is still for sale);
• 70-300 / 4,5-5,6 VR - 15000 rubles.

Total - 71-73 thousand rubles.

For this amount bought:

1. Fujifilm X-T10 - 43000 rubles (connected + 3000 bonuses from Fuji for the promotion +2000 points of the connected + 1270 rubles for saving for using the card when buying online).
2. Fujinon 18 / 2 - a pancake-lens with an ERF of 27 mm (classic reportage film times) - 18000 rubles in M-video. And this is the old price, only in M-video there are few lenses left for such a price, the new price is 32000 rubles.
3. Battery WP-126, native to Fuj, with a 2-year warranty, price of 1630 in the store, minus ~ 300 points with the "points" system from Sberbank, and minus 300 rubles for a review on a purchase in a connected camera. total - 1000 rubles in fact.
4. Flash (I would like a couple) EF-X20 (9000 at the price tag in a connected) +2 sets of eneloop AAA batteries (1000 rubles / set) + SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC card 16 GB (1600 rubles). This whole set costs 12600 rubles, but - minus gift points from Fuji for the winter promotion, minus points from “Svyaznoy” from buying a camera, minus points for paying with a card - we get something about 8000 rubles.
5. From ebeya adapters to M42, M39, Nikon ~ 1400 rubles.
6. Kaleinar 5N - 1000 rubles in the commission.

Total ~ approximately the same 71-72 thousand rubles.

Not to say cheap, right? And this despite the fact that recently Fuji did raise prices for carcasses and optics.
However, it can be noted that these are new prices for new, and quality enough for their prices, products.

Why exactly x-t10, and not xt-1, x-e2, or new Olympus or sony?

With dormouse everything is simple - I don't like them. No view, no ergonomics, no picture.
With the Olympus - it's more complicated, the new OMD E10 Mark 2 and OMD E5 Mark 2 are the most convenient little cameras that I have ever held in my hands. Really - they directly flow into the hand and everything is convenient everywhere and does not shake anywhere. And there is a huge selection of lenses. And the viewfinder is good (although I liked the fujik much more). And branded Olympic beautiful colors. Stabilizer in the matrix. Fastest autofocus. Everything, literally everything is good!
Except for one “but”. Because of the crop-2, the Olympuses have the most boring picture, flat as a children's folding book-with-lock. There are absolutely no volumes. Even with good chiaroscuro. Even on top fixes. Alas. I didn't like it at all.
fuji X-E2 - there is no rotary screen and ergonomics are a little disliked.

Fuji X-M1 is one of the most successful fuji mirrorless cameras, relatively inexpensive, but alas, there is no viewfinder and hybrid autofocus, although as a second, pocket camera is quite good. An acquaintance of mine in St. Petersburg specially took her to work with manual lenses in the studio.

fuji X-T1 with the release of X-Pro 2 has lost its top status, losing to the new model in all respects, except for the price (not much) and the presence of a rotary screen. At the same time, the X-T10 outperforms the former flagship in smaller dimensions and weight, having the same matrix and focusing system, as well as a much lower price (about 20 thousand rubles), yielding only to the lack of weather protection, a little in the buffer and the size of the viewfinder, and having lost a few beautiful, but not critically necessary "twists" on the body.

Why mirrorless?

That's why:

By the way. A very big plus of such a system is that people, even unfamiliar ones, are not at all afraid of you, do not shy away like “from a big black camera”. This allows you to quite calmly shoot everyday scenes and other reportage interesting things.

Well, and one more thing. They really want to shoot.

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