Overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless camera in the hands of an amateur. Review from the reader Radozhiva.

Review Fuji X-T10 prepared Lynx which is an editor Happy. This review is also available on his website. here. Anonymous, remember, Lynx doesn't look like some!

Review Fujifilm X-T10

Review Fujifilm X-T10

A review of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless camera in the hands of an amateur, as well as: “mirrorless vs DSLRs - yes or no?”, “Why do I need this?”, “All that you were afraid of, but wanted” and other funny nonsense.

All amusing nonsense is exclusively a lynx imha,

and based on the subjective experience of filming

to SLR and mirrorless cameras.

If you answer to the main question of the life of the universe and in general briefly and immediately - it all depends on the requirements. In a large number of cases, the X-T10 / X-T1 is a very good replacement for an amateur DSLR (everything, you can not read further;)).

The exceptions, it seems to me, are:

  • professional reporting and its most complex forms (just do not confuse it with “reporter shooting” from pop concerts, performances of a children's sports school and club photos);
  • art and fashion shooting with high detail and shallow depth of field (if you have money for a medium format and optics for it, as well as understanding why this is necessary, this article is completely not for you)
  • Carrying a “cool cool mirror” for the impression of customers and the general feeling of working with “serious technology” (yes, mirrorless ergonomics are unique, and the look often “does not inspire confidence in“ serious people ”).

Most of the performance characteristics (matrices, dimensions, weight, etc.) can be viewed on the Internet, read the praises of the “original fuji matrix with a non-Bayer filter” (with the light of which the lightroom still works, by the way) and memorized phrases that say “now you don’t have to wear a lot and shoot for your own pleasure. "
Focus on honestly subjective.


The most requested and controversial topic. The X-T10 has hybrid focusing - contrasting over the entire field of the frame, plus phase, in the central part of the frame, the coverage area by phase sensors is approximately comparable to those of Nikon D600. When choosing focus points, hybrid points are highlighted a little brighter than the rest. Focusing is fast, although it depends a lot on the lens, however, as always.

It is said that under tight lighting conditions, the camera completely switches to contrast focusing, turning off phase sensors. True or not, I don’t know.

A very convenient option is to move around the frame not only one focus point, but also the “focus area” by several points, with adjustable size and proportions. A similar function (only without quick area adjustment) exists in professional DSLRs (for Nikon - starting with D200).

Focus Points Fujifilm X-T10

Usually, in mirrorless cameras, the joystick operation is configured as in “soap dishes” - some action is assigned to each button: changing ISO / white balance / modes / selecting focus points. In X-T10, in addition to this mode, you can turn on the “SLR-like mode” - that is, the four joystick buttons are immediately responsible for moving the focus point / zone. And assign the necessary adjustable parameters to the user settings screen - “Q”:

Fujifilm X-T10 Quick Menu

Focus Modes M / S / C? There is. Switch lever to the right of the bayonet. Classic.

Focusing with tracking objects on the frame field (what is called 3D focus in nikon)? There is. Although, it depends on the settings and contrast of the objects.

Face focus? There is. In combination with the previous paragraph - it is very convenient to shoot children playing. And the opportunity to choose focusing on the eyes, and, on a choice - on the left or right eye ...

Is there enough speed and focus for amateur photography and regular reporting? Definitely yes. At least, the focusing speed is not inferior (and in accuracy in dark conditions - sometimes even higher) than the speed of my old s5pro, d90, d7000 and 3xxx / 5xxx series. Perhaps it may not be enough for a professional reporting, but how many of those who read it shoot the Olympic Games?

A couple of subtleties:

  1. When shooting continuously with servo autofocus, you must select the “mechanical” shutter mode. If the “electronic” or “electronic / mechanical” modes are selected, then the focus in the series will be performed on the first frame.
  2. There is such a very useful option as increasing the frame at the focus point by pressing the rear control dial (also, by the way, when viewing the shot). Actual for both manual and automatic focus mode. Alas, it only works when focusing “on one point”.


Immediately I want to warn about one important point in the ergonomics of mirrorless mirrors in general and “tens” in particular. Unlike DSLRs, they are more likely “left-handed cameras”.
That is, it’s easy to drag the camera “at the fingertips of the right hand ” you are unlikely to succeed - fingers cramp, especially with a massive lens. The only exceptions are the configurations with the “whale”, and 18 and 27 mm “pancakes”. And here is the very feeling that the use of professional mirrors gives: “the camera as an extension of the hand!” - will also be absent.

Despite some “oblique” models of the X-T series “under the mirrors” - all these stops under the thumb, a protrusion on the pediment and other tricks, the principle of wearing system cameras is significantly different from the central locking system. The first time will have to relearn.

An additional battle block / handle can partially correct the situation (at the same time making the camera more massive), bringing ergonomics closer to the “mirror” one, but alas, it is not provided for the X-T10 even among the Chinese.
If only to do it yourself. ;)
From my current point of view - a leather Chinese half case is enough. People with wealth and desire can buy the original case and additional grip from Fuji. Today it is about 4500 rubles per item.

Fujifilm X-T10 with modding handle

For those who spent a lot of time shooting on film SLRs and rangefinders (or had experience working with puppies;)) - you will only have to remember old skills.

wearing exampleSo, X-T10 is held in his left hand. Just like the old zenith (or puppy): the thumb and forefinger form a “fork” for grasping and holding the lens, and the palm and other fingers hold the camera from below. It is convenient, practical, leaves the right hand free, and protects the camera.
Wearing exampleYes, if you want to shoot by stretching out the camera and holding it only in your right hand - such a trick is quite possible. True, with many lenses it will be difficult. To wear in your left hand is much more convenient.

The complete neck strap, like most cameras, is tough. But quality. True quality. And without the enormous inscription “HEY PASANI - HERE A GUY WITH A MEGADORAL CAMERA!”. So you can spend a little time to stretch it and bring it into good condition.

If your neck strap is uncomfortable - I recommend putting a synthetic or leather wrist strap on the left - insurance and grip will definitely improve.

In general, mirrorless fuji and Olympus with their ergonomics dictate a slightly different shooting style than the CZK. But the article “the influence of the type of camera on the psychological aspects of artistic creation” we will consider another time.

All buttons (with the exception of the video button) are convenient and accessible, are easily blind, are pressed with a good response, but without undue tightness.

The control wheels (both front and rear), in addition to rotation, can be pressed like buttons. On the front you can select an action, the back, by pressing, increases the focus area in full screen.

Turning on the camera - with the rotary lever around the shutter button, everything is like in Nikon.

Exposure control and modes for all Fuji mirrorless cameras are implemented as in film cameras: on the lens aperture is set, on the camera body - excerpt and exposure compensation. True, for several inexpensive lenses that do not have an aperture ring, the exposure is made by the control wheels, as in Nikon.
И excerpt and the diaphragm have in extreme positions the position “A” - auto. Exposing them in position “A” in different combinations, we obtain the modes M, A, S and P. Everything is simple and convenient.

In case you need to give the camera into the hands of someone unfamiliar with the intricacies of shooting, there is an “auto” lever under the shutter speed dial, which puts the camera in “green” mode with tracking autofocus.

By the way, it’s a rather hysterical mode - for some reason it has a constant, non-switched off, tracking autofocus, therefore the lens constantly buzzes and fidgets. As it turned out, unprepared people are nervous, as if they were given a small, nimble animal in their hands.

On the left, on the top panel, there is a drive for selecting drive modes (single frame, fast and slow series), two types of brackets (according to exposure, types of films and more. Configured in the menu) of two types of filters (about them below), as well as panoramic shooting and multiple exposure. The latter is very conveniently implemented - after shooting the first frame, it is superimposed on the screen with a translucent background, so that you can see the combination of images.

Viewfinder and screen

The screen is typical for the present time, a little more than three inches, with good color reproduction and angles. I recommend sticking a matte protective film or glass - working under the bright sun will be much more convenient. It leans back with the help of the protrusions on the left (they cling well with the fingernail of the index finger), down by 45 and up by 90 degrees.
Viewfinder ... I’ve seen different viewfinders in old Fuji models, in sony-nex babies and in new Olympuses. Frankly - this is the best! Both in color and in detail. Subjectively, it is only slightly smaller than the viewfinder of a full-frame SLR, but larger than on the crop, especially the “younger” one.

The viewfinder and screen can be switched using the proximity sensor and have 4 modes:

  • Only the screen works (constantly)
  • Only the viewfinder works (constantly)
  • The screen works, but when brought to the eye (about 5-7 cm), it switches to the viewfinder
  • Only the viewfinder works, but it turns on only when brought to the eye.

The “sleep” button is sorely lacking, as for example it is implemented in modern cell phones - clicking the switch is tiring every time.

Also, I would really like the mode “in the viewfinder there is an image, on the screen there are only settings and a quick user menu”.

As befits mirrorless, not related to technical parameters JVI - Both the screen and the viewfinder can display a lot of any additional information, starting from the ISO / shutter speed / aperture and ending with a virtual horizon and three types of help with manual focusing.
The main advantage EVI (and screen) Fuji was able to display the space with the already selected settings. Example photo on fujifilm X-T10

For example, if you shoot in manual mode and have too much shutter speed and aperture, the camera will show you a practically black screen. Or heavily lit, depending on the parameters.

Example photo on fujifilm X-T10
And using the exposure compensation wheel (located on the top of the camera, on the right), you can easily choose the lighting of the frame, for example, when shooting an evening city - from light twilight, until late at night with lights.


Everything is simple, convenient, concise, with a bunch of possible fine-tuning “for you”.
The logic of the menu is closest to Nikon's - the vertical column of squares a1-a5 / s1-s3 to the left and pop-up menus from it. In the Russian version, you sometimes have to peek at the instructions for what these or other abbreviations mean. But in general - everything is clear.


The first and most important thing about Fuji system lenses is that almost all of them are tops. Yes, that's right, in Fujiks there are practically no “cheap and compromise” glasses, with the exception of 27 mm fixation and a few “whales” of standard focal glasses (16-50 and 55-200). And even in this case, the simplest 16-55 / 3,5-5,6 gives a very, very good picture.
Most of the fixes have aperture f / 1,4, some f / 2, zooms from f / 2,8. The construct is almost always all-metal, without any rubber bands and plastic.
About any of the Fuji lenses, we can say: “Dip into your hands, dash - a thing!”
A plus of this approach is the fact that any of the lenses really want to shoot without bothering. Minus is the price. Who wants to be horrified by modern prices - welcome to Yandex Market.

A feature of fuji lenses is electronic control rings - the transmission of zoom, aperture and focus parameters is not mechanical, but electronic. On the one hand - this allows you to make smooth adjustment when shooting video, as well as complete dust and moisture protection of the lens. On the other hand, one will also have to get used to it, the reaction of the lenses is not as straightforward as with mechanical control.

But there is a fairly large stroke of the focus ring, about two turns from MDF to infinity, which gives great opportunities when shooting.

I happened to shoot on 4 lenses of the Fujifilm system:

  1. 16-50 / 3,5-5,6. The standard and most common whale. Plastic, although the design completely repeats the older counterparts. There is no aperture ring - control of the diaphragm and stabilizer - from the carcass, as in a reflex camera. The first version was boring in the drawing, but not bad in sharpness (it is often preferred to the more expensive 18-55 / 2,8-4), the second - they speak even better, but I haven’t gotten into my hands yet. Built-in good stabilizer.
  2. 35 / 1,4. Amazing “normal” lens. Sharpness, drawing, design - everything is on top! All metal. Has a diaphragm ring. It can be safely recommended as a regular and main lens for creative and family photography.
  3. Example photo on fujifilm X-T1023 / 1,4. Very nice shirik with a huge aperture and no less enormous price. It is sharp throughout the field almost immediately with the open. For its characteristics - it is quite compact, although not easy, but still a metal construct. Switching to manual mode - like on Tokina lenses - you need to pull the focus wheel towards you, opening the distance scale and DOF. Of the drawbacks - perhaps the very easily rotating focus ring and aperture ring, sometimes get off at the touch of a finger.
  4. LYNX2879_for review18/2. Reporting staff. EGF - 27 mm, classic reportable focal time film. Often they swear at him that he lathers the edges on an open diaphragm, but personally it doesn’t really bother me. But it is very compact (the camera with it fits in the jacket pocket), is relatively inexpensive and fast in focusing. And also has its own, quite soulful drawing with volume. Focusing rings and apertures - metal, with a tight, pleasant stroke.


Yes, they are short-lived - from 300 to 600 frames (someone mentioned 1000), depending on the mode of use, and you need to monitor / disable the camera so that it does not eat too much (although there is a sleep timer). Yes, it’s better to always have a spare with you. Yes, it’s better to take the original ones, and not China (which are at least a third less capacious, and generally can glitch or burn out at any time. Yes, this is not cheap - the original now costs about 1,6-2,5 thousand (although you can take within a thousand with all sorts of discounts).
Battery charging time - about an hour and a half in a situation “Oh, you need to charge!” and about two are able “Well, here we are”.

About color and light

Canonists, judging by the reviews on the forum, do not note any losses in the dynamic range when switching to Fujik. In colors - very happy.
Nikonists, especially those with multi-pixel cameras (D610 / D7100), may find the dynamic range in jeeps on very contrasting scenes too small. But the ditches are practically the same “pulling” as Nikon, and the colors and skinton are undoubtedly better.

An example is a jeep without processing, a jeep with elongated +100 shadows in the lightroom, and an equal with elongated shadows in +100 in the lightroom:

Personally, after the “spade”, with its enormous DD in jeeps, I had to remember about the breaks and master Capture One, but the colors did not disappoint.

Flash work

With outbreaks, Fuji is a little complicated and a bit simple.

It’s difficult - because the system is new, and the models of third-party TTL-flash manufacturers under them - the cat cried, now there is only Meike-320 - a small dual-battery, but quite successful model and Nissin-40i - a classic model with a rotary head, although the dimensions are slightly smaller than usual .

Just because there are only three “native” flashes, you won’t get confused:

  • EF-42, amateur classic flash, analogue of sb-700 - 4 batteries, a rotary and lifting head, the leading number is 42. There is autofocus illumination, but there is no remote control system. For mirrorless ones - it’s definitely large and uncomfortable. Apparently it was developed "in spite of the mirror".
  • EF-20, a small dual-battery flash with the ability to "turn up". Management - through the camera menu, the leading number - 20. Easier nowhere and, to be honest - uglier too.
  • EF-X20 flash on tripodEF-X20, a tiny “matchbox”, the leading number is 20, the control is the only power and correction wheel on the top face, the power button and the “Test” button. No zoom, no rotation, only built-in wide-angle diffuser with lever. Of the shortcomings - perhaps the recharge cycle is not too fast: 5-6 seconds at 1/1 power, and almost instantly starting from 1/4 and below. In addition to TTL and manual mode, it has the ability to remotely ignite from the built-in flash. The most stylish and comfortable of the three (yes, she has AAA batteries, so spare ones are needed).
  • There are rumors about a new “reporting" outbreak from Fuji, but so far there are not even any clear descriptions.

EF-X20 with cover:

flash EF-X20 kitflash EF-X20 comparison
X-T10 Flash Remote Control:

  1. for EF-X20 - on the “ignition” of the built-in flash, in manual mode. At the same time, the flash below has a switch for TTL-mode, manual tracking mode, and “P” tracking mode, which, apparently, allows the flash to not respond to “pre-flash from red eyes”. Well, studio / manual flashes naturally also “set on fire”.
  2. By sync cable, through a hot shoe. They say that cables from the Canon system are suitable, but the location of the contacts on the shoe is somewhat different from the canon ones. Nikon's TTL cable is not accurate. Perhaps the so-called A “universal TTL cable” would be the best solution in this situation.
  3. Radio syncs through a hot shoe. Any - for manual modes, or, possibly, E-TTL for the Canon system (information not verified).

Fuji EF-X20 and studio chinese flash:

Fuji EF-x20 and Chinese studio flash

A little trick that helps you not to worry about the invertedness of the flash:EF-X20 flash with reflector

With a flash on the forehead:

direct flash shot

And with a reflector from a piece of foil:

Flash frame and ceiling reflector

As a means of holding foil paper, in increasing efficiency: fingers, elastic band for money, magnetic strip (bought in an advanced store for printers or from manufacturers of magnets)

For integrated flash X-T10, in the menu, has only 4 operating modes:

  • “Forced” is a simple TTL mode. Before operation, the flash must be raised with the lever on the left on the top panel.
  • Slow sync.
  • 2-curtain sync - read “rear-curtain”
  • Commander Command mode. Alas, fujah has nothing like Nikon's CLS, in this mode the flash works with a minimum power sufficient only for ignition external flash.
  • Flash off. Why do I need this item, as well as the first one - I’m lost in guessing (after all, the flash only fires if it is raised), most likely the menu is as unified as possible with other camera models, and these items are designed for cameras with heavy flashes - to turn them off / on in this way. But, when you select this menu item, the raised flash does not fire.

Additional built-in flash settings:

  • Flash exposure compensation +2 0 -2, in increments of 1/3.
  • Turning off the “remove red eyes" mode. Moreover, it was implemented not in advance, as usual, but at the program level - automation determines the face and “blackens the pupils”.
  • Manual mode is absent.

Since the viewfinder (and screen) shows the picture in accordance with the selected exposure pair and exposure compensation, allowing you to select shooting parameters in real time, then for working with flash units and in the studio, the “view” menu has the “view” mode exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. When you turn it off EVI and the screen starts working as usual JVI. This function can be assigned to the “Fn” function keys, but cannot be entered into the “Q” user menu.


Wireless communication in the X-T10 has four functions:

  1. Work with tablets and smartphones. Android and Ios.
  2. Autosave to the computer.
  3. Impressing geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone.
  4. Wireless wearable printer “Intax”.
Work with tablets and smartphones.

Everything is very simple and fast. The application database (googleplay and applestory) has an application. It is downloaded, installed, configured, and now, each time you turn on Wi-Fi in your smartphone and Fujik, and confirm the connection in the camera, you get 4 functions:

  • Copying / receiving (not moving!) The selected photos to the smartphone (moreover, the camera has the function “transfer compressed file by volume”) In this mode, select which photos to transfer and which not to — on the camera screen.
  • View camera memory. The same as the previous paragraph, only in this case all control of copying and selection occurs from the smartphone screen. In fact, this is the choice “what to put back in your pocket - a camera or smartphone?”.
  • Shooting control - pointing, shutter release, changing shooting parameters - iso, excerpt, flash mode, timer, photo or video, correction exposure and so on.
  • Geotagging - transfer of coordinates of the current location to the camera when shooting.

Fujifilm X-T10 Wi-Fi connection screen
The connection is almost instant. When working with a camera - Wi-Fi Internet access on a smartphone is automatically blocked.
Of the disadvantages - every time after the menu item is executed, when you return to the selection of items, you have to reconnect.
This function can be assigned to one of the “Fn” function buttons.

PC autosave

A special autosave program is downloaded from the Fuji site (versions for Win and Ios), and, upon installation, it is assigned to autoload in standby mode. At the same time, on the camera, you need to configure the network connection (username / password or several other methods) - through a home wifi router or access point. After that, the network settings are stored in the camera. Up to six wifi- networks can be saved.
For autosave, you need to go into photo view mode, and select “autosave to PC”. It takes about 20-30 seconds to connect and authorize in the autosave program, and it takes another half a minute to check and copy 10-20 jpg files.
Unfortunately, you cannot assign autosave to either function keys or the user menu.

Imprinting geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone

Everything is simple here - turn on the GPS on your smartphone, run the same connection program, and it passes the labels for recording to EXIF any fresh shot. At the same time, the “terrain marks received” icon is displayed on the screen. For some reason, it is indicated that “continuous operation time is 1 hour”.

Instax SHARE SP-1 Wireless Wearable Printer

Intax printer

Photo - honestly stolen from the official website of the manufacturer.

This is a very fun idea of ​​Fujifilm, based on their modern instax polaroid cameras. It is a printing unit from a similar camera with a projector screen inside, a wi-fi module and powered by a pair of batteries.
Dimensions: 101,6 mm x 42 mm x 122,5 mm, weight: 253 g (without battery and film), hung with a clip on a belt.
Price - about 8-9 thousand rubles in January 2015.
Pictures are taken in size 46 * 62 mm, plus a white frame like a polaroid.
It feeds on cassettes from Fujifilm “a la polaroid”, for 10 shots (type “mini”), at a cost of 4-5 hundred rubles each.
Whoever reads here is already well done!
Basically, this fun is needed for all kinds of parties, and for paid photo shoots, when in half a minute, during the shooting process, you can take several “photos for your purse” - a pleasant surprise to the customer. Well, or you can make a conceptual exhibition.


Film Profiles and Job Emulation

The camera has half a dozen preset color profiles, mainly simulating certain types of film, including the legendary kodak-chrome and classic sepia. Moreover, it shows them immediately in the viewfinder when shooting. And also - 7 options for user settings (in which film profiles are just one of the modifiable parameters). Any of these can be switched via the quick menu or the assigned function keys, with the combination “pressed a button, turned the wheel / clicked with the joystick”. Funny options that can be assigned to the left “tower” are a black and white image with a tolerance of only one color - red, yellow, blue, green and orange.

color choice - blue

color choice - red

Memory cards

One of the differences between x-t10 and x-t1 is frame buffer. In the X-T10, it is limited to about 8-10 frames, and after that the camera thinks about recording on a USB flash drive. In many forums it is recommended (and I agree) to spend money on a high-speed card, with a speed of no less than 80-95 Mbit / s. The recording lag drops significantly - at a slow serial speed the overflow of the card does not occur at all, on a fast one - it starts to slow down after the tenth or twelfth frame.
No, some kind of inexpensive card, such as the Transcend 10 class is not fast and pretty slow. The recording speed should be indicated on the card (or in the description). Some kind of SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB (or better 32) - is quite suitable.

The most “continuous-firing” option is the “jeepeg-normal” option with a minimum file size and all improvers turned off - about 20 frames (2,5 sec) of continuous shooting without slowing down.

True, all of the above applies to the jpg format, in raw - a camera with a fast card reduces the shooting speed somewhere after the tenth frame in a slow series and after the sixth-seventh frame in a fast one (but does not stop shooting!).

XNUMXrd party lenses

Through the appropriate adapters are put almost any. The most common adapters on the M42, on the M39, Nikon and Canon. Alas, for autofocus glasses, the iris control (and even more so the focusing drive or zoom) will not work. Of particular interest is the possibility of using interesting rangefinder glasses.

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS (via Fuji-M42 adapter)

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS

Lens caps

Inconvenient, and slip out of the fingers. The classic “a la nikon” is much more practical. But it's easier to put a good one protective filter and forget about the covers.

Wishes to the developers of Fujifilm:

  1. menu item “view exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. - really needed in the “user menu Q”.
  2. the function “connect to the tablet” and “autosave” need to be added to the “user screen Q”
  3. I really need the “sleep” button under duress, or at least setting in the sleep timing menu not only for 2 and 5 minutes - they are too long.
  4. Also, I would really like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings, and a quick user menu”. - as it has already been implemented with the image viewing mode. And then, setting the mode to “viewfinder only”, it is not possible to adjust the shooting parameters on the screen, and to shoot - only through the viewfinder, as on mirrors.
  5. On the button / command “enable wi-fi” you need to make a choice - connect to a tablet or computer / other networks (rather than scattering it into two teams in two different menus), otherwise you have to climb into the menu to enable autosave to throw off a couple -Three photo. Well, it connects long enough, unfortunately. Maybe what kind of usb-wifi device to release so that it is stuck in the computer - and it immediately connects the camera, with the same program as smartphones?

Price and consistency

Alas and ah, the option “I’ll go to the mirrorless, everything is cheaper and better there” is a myth.
If you completely switch to a mirrorless system, with native lenses, automation and convenience, you will have to spend money.

I’ll make a reservation right away — yes, there are inexpensive solutions for a narrow range of tasks.

For example, for “purely manual work with high-quality color” there is a very suitable, and relatively inexpensive fuji X-m1 in the secondary market. For 12-17 thousand, subject to the purchase of second-hand, you get a tiny pocket crop-1,5, with a proprietary matrix, a set of adapters for the main systems (M42, M39, watering can, Nikon), a manual focus system, Wi-Fi and a folding screen . If you add your own “kit” 16-50 / 3,5-5,6 for 10 000 rubles - you have an apparatus for creative, studio shooting and family holidays.

Pocket and inexpensive Sony nex 5, 6, 7 versions, or A5100 are quite suitable for street photos. With pancake or whale. Or the Olympus pen-series (starting with five).

Actually, a mirrorless inexpensive (at the price of a younger SLR) system for “Take the family and put the camera back in your pocket”, these are top-notch small models Olympus / Sony / Fuji / Panasonic - without a viewfinder, with a rotary screen and a whale / pancake in the kit (in the case of an Olympus, a whale-pancake).

But! If you build a universal system with the optimal set of functions, good focus and automatic lenses, forget about the savings regarding DSLRs.

I'll give you a concrete example.
To switch to Fuji, I had to sell:

S5pro with all devices

Total - 71-73 thousand rubles.

For this amount bought:

  1. Fujifilm X-T10 - 43000 rubles (connected + 3000 bonuses from Fuji for the promotion + 2000 connected points + 1270 rubles in savings for using the card with online purchase).
  2. Fujinon 18 / 2 - a pancake lens with an ERF of 27 mm (classic reportage of film times) - 18000 rubles in M-video. Moreover, this is the old price, only in the M-video there are few lenses for this price, the new price is 32000 rubles.
  3. Battery WP-126, native to fuja, with a 2-year warranty, price of 1630 in the store, minus ~ 300 points with the “points” system from Sberbank, and minus 300 rubles for a review of a purchase in a connected camera. total - 1000 rubles in fact.
  4. Flash (I would like a couple) EF-X20 (9000 at the price tag in a connected) +2 sets of eneloop AAA batteries (1000 rubles / set) + SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB card (1600 rubles). This whole set costs 12600 rubles, but minus the gift points from Fuji for the winter campaign, minus the points of the “Connected” person from buying a camera, minus points for paying with a card, we get something about 8000 rubles.
  5. From ebeya adapters to M42, M39, Nikon ~ 1400 rubles.
  6. Kaleinar 5N - 1000 rubles in the commission.

Total ~ approximately the same 71-72 thousand rubles.

Not to say cheap, right? And this despite the fact that recently Fuji did raise prices for carcasses and optics.
However, it can be noted that these are new prices for new products that are high enough for their prices.

Why exactly x-t10, and not xt-1, x-e2, or new Olympus or sony?

With Sony, everything is simple - I do not like them. No view, no ergonomics, no picture.
With the Olympus - more complicated, the new OMD E10 Mark 2 and OMD E5 Mark 2 - these are the most convenient little cameras that I have ever had in my hands. Really - they directly pour into the hand and everything is convenient everywhere and does not press anywhere. And there is a huge selection of lenses. And the viewfinder is good (although Fujik liked much more). And branded Olympus beautiful colors. The stabilizer in the matrix. Fastest autofocus. Everything, literally everything is good!
Except for one “but.” Because of the crop-2, the Olympus has a boring, flat as a children's folding book with a lock, a picture. There are absolutely no volumes. Even with good chiaroscuro. Even on top fixes. Alas. I didn’t like it at all.
fuji X-E2 - there is no rotary screen and a bit do not like ergonomics.

Fuji X-M1 is one of the most successful fuji mirrorless, relatively inexpensive, but alas, there is no viewfinder and hybrid autofocus, although like the second, a pocket camera is quite good. A friend of mine in St. Petersburg specially took it to work with manual lenses in the studio.

Fuji X-T1 with the release of X-Pro 2 has lost the status of the top, losing the new model in all respects, except for the price (not much) and the presence of a rotary screen. At the same time, the X-T10 outperforms the former flagship with smaller dimensions and weight, having the same matrix and focusing system, and also at a much lower price (about 20 thousand rubles), losing only to the lack of weather protection, a little in the buffer and viewfinder size, but losing a few beautiful, but not critically needed “twirls” on the case.

Why mirrorless?

That's why:why fujik

By the way. A very big plus of such a system is that people, even unfamiliar ones, are not at all afraid of you, they don’t shy away “from a big black camera”. This allows you to quite easily shoot everyday scenes and other reporting interesting things.
Well, and one more thing. They really want to shoot.

Add a comment:

Comments: 297, on the topic: Overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or mirrorless in the hands of an amateur. Review from the reader Radozhiva.

  • kituchenyj

    I quote myself (I wrote on another forum, they started to peck there, but I washed off on time):
    I am not a pro, and I do not pretend. I rent exclusively for myself. I started to “flirt” with Fuji a year ago (I bought X-M1). It ended up selling my D 7100 (before that there were D 90, D 3100, D 5300) with all the lenses, I bought Fuji X-E2 and several lenses (I plan to expand the optics park).
    -best quality shots.
    -Much less rejection percentage by sharpness.
    -No front-back focus.
    - I can use, and comfortable, any third-party lens.
    - camera weight finally!
    04.02.2016/XNUMX/XNUMX. Fuji has released a new firmware. I reflashed it, at the output I received actually a new carcass with top-end functionality.
    IMHO: Nikon has cameras on the market with an APS-C matrix, and even more so with this approach to the consumer when releasing new firmware, there is NO FUTURE !!!
    PSWhen Nikon sets focus priority over the shutter, then the percentage of marriage when shooting offhand is ASTRONOMIC !!! Fuji has almost no marriage.

    • Vyacheslav

      Well, it’s you who specifically wrote for your copy of Nikon. Yes, there is a marriage in any technique.

  • Vyacheslav

    I bought a Nikon FujX10 system a long time ago - a soap dish ... and sold at that time the second D3100 DSLR a week after buying this fujah - according to a friend I advised - and he crossed with 5M2 ken N afuji X-T10 + 56 \ 1.2 +23 \ 1.4 + 18mm - he is satisfied - I took off - yes, I want to shoot with a machine - for myself for a loved one - that’s what I need - I would buy it myself - but it’s unprofitable to work with two systems, but my D800 + also has a set of fixes for me to work with - it’s more convenient for me — and in some genres moisture also matters dusty ... often I take it off and the stream flows from the camera ....

  • witness

    Lynx bought a Kaleinar 5N lens for 1000 rubles in a commission and sells it already for 4500 rubles in VKontakte and still does not like criticism!

    • witness

      Lynx bought a Kaleinar 5N lens for 1000 rubles in a commission and sells it already for 4500 rubles in VKontakte and still does not like criticism!

      • witness

        And Lynx says he loves the comments in his feed.

        • witness

          Lynx's reaction to criticism

      • Georgy

        It’s interesting to the point of horror, but what did Lynx do so criminally when he started selling the kaleinar for 4,5 tyr. And then they begin to grab his hand and resent. Rave. In the end, this is his thing and he did not steal it. Correctly done that banned. After all, this is not criticism, but an expression of discontent due to the inconsistency of the actions of other people with some of their (often incorrect) expectations and beliefs.

    • Arkady Shapoval


      • Lynx

        Yes, epic. It’s even a pity that his attempts to troll were erased.

    • Lynx

      Just banned a fool so as not to distract with stupid things.

      • witness

        From the fool and hear. Previously, it was called “speculation” and was condemned by society ...

        • Lynx

          What a horror. If it’s so for you, go to the commission room and buy yourself the same for a thousand. Or even for 200 rubles, as I managed to find Jupiter-3 1: 1,5

          • witness

            Wow! Lynx himself answered! Thank you for your advice. It's nice that you love komenty and ask why people restrict the ability of komenty in their feed, and they block the person for komenty on their page ..

            • Lynx

              Not for the fact of comments.
              For stupid and fat trolling. Terribly fat.
              But your attention pleases me.
              Secret fans fanatically following you - it's so intriguing!

              • witness

                An example of thin trolling from Lynx ...
                Yes, I have been following your work for a long time and now I have the opportunity to express myself.
                I will continue to follow.

            • Lynx

              very nice. Go on.

              • witness

                You are welcome!
                I continue ...

        • fotika.com.ua

          Well, the fact that Rysya has a peculiar approach to worldview is a personal matter, everyone has a different roof, maybe a person does not have enough attention, or tries to show himself important or special by creating posts of this kind, or when he writes about comments (the ability to write them) it implies only positive, not negative. everyone sometimes likes GOD MODE to turn it on and freaks out that everything didn’t go kingly)))) but about the speculation you went too far. you would return to the scoop and discuss there. what's the difference for how much he bought and what? and how much does it sell? there is a market value (generally accepted), and if he managed to buy it cheaper and sell it more expensive, then somewhere in the coffin one railway train (or even 2) turned upside down.

          ps This is the way a person works, he (the person) does not like to take criticism of himself sensibly. Often taking this as a personal insult. Only a wise person can thank for reasonable negative criticism and draw conclusions. Since I put it on display, then wait for the rain, warm or cold it all depends on you.

          • witness

            Thank you, they explained it very sensibly. Yes, everyone loves only positive reviews about themselves, but they don’t like negative ones .. And as for the market value of the Kaleinar 5N lens, then Lynx is not a speculator then, but he sells the dumper for 4500, and market prices are 5000, 6000, 8300 ...

            • Denis

              diagnostics also cost money)

              • witness

                Explain your comment - who did the diagnosis here?
                In your opinion, the use of the lens in personal use is called “diagnostics”?

              • Denis

                bought for 1000, performed diagnostics, can be sold for 4500

            • Ivan

              In this case, the Lynx negatively assessed not “criticism” but “unreasonable and stupid criticism”, acting as an intelligent person - leaving the argument and banning the eccentric.

              and, excuse me, speculation in a market economy? What is that? Is this what you call “trade”?

              • witness

                “Coming out of a dispute and banning an eccentric” is funny, yes ...
                Then explain to me such a pearl of the market economy- Did the girl supposedly “replace” the lens with a fixed camera for 80 euros and sell this camera for 89 euros - a gain of 9 euros? Why write such nonsense in sales ads?))

              • Ivan

                This “pearl” must have meant that the camera was under repair, where it was replaced with a defective lens (or simply repaired), and the girl paid 80 euros for it.
                She indicated this in the ad. I do not see any deception and no bullshit on the part of the sellers either in the case of the Lynx or in the example you cited.

                However, you did not answer about the meaning of the word “speculation” in this context.

              • witness

                Speculation --— income generation due to the difference between the purchase and sale prices. (According to the Wikipedia article)
                Here the difference between the purchase price of 1000 rubles per lens and the sale price of 4500 rubles is 3500 rubles, or almost 300%.
                What was originally indicated in the commentary in Vkontakte and there was no indication of speculativeness.
                Just if you know the price for which a person purchased a thing, and for which it sells, it becomes funny, no more.
                In life, we are faced with speculation every day, only no one says that anymore and considers this word offensive ..

              • yarkiy

                Not an eccentric, but a fool! And anyway, what kind of nonsense in the comments? I do not like the price - go for a walk, my thing, for as much as I want for as much and sell. What is the problem then? He also made screenshots, wise guy. Go to Ebay and try to call sellers speculators there, we'll see how quickly you will be banned.

                P.S. Sorry for the harshness, I could not restrain myself, I hate it when they climb with such nonsense!

              • Ivan

                In, thanks, Bright! These are exactly the words that I was looking for.

              • witness

                yarkiy has bombed!
                1: 0!

            • Lynx

              Thank you all, the lens is sold.

    • Pastor

      Imagine, so many photographers are engaged in such “speculation”, often not from a good life, but from the need to at least somehow recoup their hobby. For example, over the past month and a half, I have earned 50 thousand on “speculations”, but at the same time I have already spent more than 120 on the purchase of photographic equipment. This is from the beginning of February. So it turns out that he didn’t even pay back his hobby expenses, he only paid 70 thousand. Offer to give away everything for free or at half price? Moreover, the price of calendars is quite adequate.

      • witness

        The old truth is known: “If you want to ruin your friend, give him a camera!”
        And about your costs, a person creates difficulties for himself, and then he copes with them. Just need to thank him and he will create new difficulties for himself with more zeal.
        Interestingly, wedding photographers have a “good” life? Pays off? Do they pay taxes on this and what kind of pension will they accrue in old age?

        • Pastor

          So I didn’t say much about difficulties. He talked about hobby payback, what difficulties are there, explain? Who should thank me for anything, so that with greater zeal I would create some difficulties for myself?
          I am not a wedding photographer, so in my own skin I can’t say whether their life is good and paying off. But in general, as in any other business, someone is fine, but someone has the same problems. I think those who continue to work and take pictures have good life and pay off. Otherwise, why should they remain in the profession? On the other hand, for someone it’s both a job and a hobby, which means they are forced to work even without payback, purely out of thirst to shoot. Taxes are paid if registered as an individual entrepreneur or work in offices such as Janus Prospero (if he officially takes them). Accordingly, they will receive a pension in old age. Another thing is that not everyone works in the white, but these are their own problems. Well, counting on retirement in Russia, if you are from our country, I think is pointless. In Soviet times, people gave their whole lives and health in hazardous industries, schools, hospitals, and now they can’t pay for communal services. So, hoping for a state in terms of a pension is strange now. Given the freezing of pension savings for a year, and all these frauds with the FIU. I believe that it’s better not to dream about retirement, but to create your own reserves that will allow you to live in retirement, and maybe even retire early.

          • witness

            Thanks for the detailed answer!
            1. Thank probably relatives or acquaintances whom you photograph.
            2. We will create our own reserves that will allow us to live in old age!

            • Pastor

              Yes, you have to hear gratitude, but not always and far from where you expect them :) But in general, I personally receive more pleasure from the process than from the result and its evaluation. I think, like a significant part of other photographers. And reserves must be created - yes. Many countries have long been on this path from Europe to the United States (there is a lot to be postponed for retirement) to China, where there is no pension at all for the majority of the population and the care of the elderly lies with their children. So there are two options for good old age for photographers (and not only) - either raise children well (who would know how :)), or save for old age, buy real estate, invest in gold / stocks / bonds / mutual funds / hedge- funds :) Well, or in cool lenses, some of them become more expensive :)

  • kituchenyj

    After a long break, he looked into the comments and was horrified! Good people, what did you turn the photography forum into? And all because of one m ... ka, which the toad crushed for the lens? Just a man, apparently, from North Korea. I beg you, closer to the topic, gentlemen!

    • BB

      Well, actually this is not a forum, but a blog ...

    • Lynx

      well, that happens.

      • Jury

        Lynx, there is a short note on your blog about the experience when shooting with the Fujifilm X-T10 and Nikon D700. What is subjectively more pleasant to deal with - seven hundred or fujik? There were no thoughts that it was necessary to switch from half-way to full frame, and not to fuji?

        • Lynx

          Well, there are already several notes of this kind, including focusing, how much it depends on the lens.
          subjectively ...
          well, I’ll give you a “male example” - with whom is it subjectively better to walk around the city, with a professional model 1,8 m tall or with a numb little anime girl who is “for any kind of a chatter, except for a hunger strike”? )))

          subjectively - these are too different concepts and they are not very correctly opposed. When you shoot with a Fujik, you understand that you are shooting with a camera with your buttons and twists. When seven hundred - then you just shoot, without thinking about anything.
          It so happened that several photo walks we crossed with the owner of seven hundred. And yes, he has a larger viewfinder! (but this is of course FF against nettop crop, xt1 gives about the same coverage as FF)
          He - periodically sighs with admiration while taking off my fujik. I am nostalgic from the d700, which “is not a camera, but an extension of the hand” is actually seven hundred and its older brothers, for me, this is the crown of ergonomics of professional cameras.
          ...... ..
          Yes, I had doubts whether to leave for the full frame. Serious.
          1. size. We talked with the pastor somewhere in the comments. For a person without a car, or not “going to shoot like an ambulance crew” - size is the main factor “always take a camera with you”.
          Exactly the same thing with the film - I rarely go to Kiev 19 with Jupiter and Helios, except for a special photo shoot, and olympus 35RC I just throw in my pocket or corner of the bag, and he is always with me.
          2. options. Unfortunately, after a glimpse of it, looking at the nikon and their skinton is extremely sad IMPOSSIBLE sad. Fans of screaming that “in the lightroom you can get everything you need” - go through the forest, I like to shoot, and not to poke a pipette into the computer.
          Yes, to be honest on the models themselves, after the d700 too. From the FF one could consider:
          - seven hundred. Not cheap, bushy, figs we get in normal quality and at a sane price. Although morally obsolete cake.
          - DF. expensive. Yes, the matrix is ​​from D4. but the focuser is from d600 (((
          - d500 ... guys, $ 1700 this may be normal for a professional reporter, but for me there are much more sane solutions for a lower price.
          all sorts of d600 / 750 nafig due to the fact that this garbage is brittle shit and with terrifying flowers "out of the box", and triples and fours - due to prices.
          And ALL the same, everything returns to paragraph 1.

          • Jury

            Lynx, thanks for such a detailed answer. I understand the difference between the D700 and the Fujik, I also understand that comparing them head-on is not entirely correct. It was precisely the subjective sensations that interested me during the use of the X-T10 after professional guidance.
            I’m considering switching from D700 to Fujifilm, because after warm lamp D50, D80 and D200 color D700 gradually disappoints. And the weight of the camera has been annoying lately.

            In favor of the D700 I see - volume, ISO (unprincipled), the viewfinder, ergonomics (although it is difficult to compare here - the X-T10 and X-T1 were not in my hands at all) and the battery. I also have good lenses for it: 20mm f / 2.8d, 35mm f / 2d, 50mm f / 1.8G. I understand that a similar set of focal for fuji will cost a pretty penny.

            In favor of the X-T10 (X-T1) - size and color.

            I shoot exclusively for myself, mainly people, urban and natural landscapes, street photography. D80 functional enough above the roof. What would you suggest?

            As I understand it, JPEG in colors at the D50, D80 and D200 levels can now be obtained only from the Fujifilm or Olympus (or am I wrong?).

            • Lynx

              in principle, olympus now has tasty colors - its new omd 5 mark2 and omd 10 mark2 are excellent, but ... crop 2. For some, this is an obstacle, for food photographers it is buzzing, but I did not like it. But the lenses are inexpensive, although normal - it’s the same as a Fujik.

              And at Fujik. I like the colors. And the settings for different films, too. And ergonomics. Yes, I often miss the DD of his jeeps (after the jeepegs of ghouls), but I’m more than just a tyrant and they can always be safe.
              So here you are right.

              If it’s off, and there will be normal amounts of money, then maybe you should wait until the end of the year for the release of X-t2 or x-t20 with a new twenty-megapixel matrix.

              Batteries are taken simply "a few pieces." Two batteries for the D700 is about 4 pieces to the Fujik, so that by weight about bash on bash. Only they scatter on the bag))

              Xt10 is smaller than xt1, and with such dimensions it is even noticeable, so it makes sense to take a single unit only if you need waterproof blood from your nose.

              At the price of glass. Perhaps it’s worth investing in a normal top-end zoom - and all the rules. But about this - ask all the same Elena, she somehow more for landscapes and the city understands.
              You can search for lenses on the secondary as well, at least as much as possible, but cheaper.
              18/2 right now you can take for 20 on the secondary, 35/2 for 21-25 thousand.
              here, as they say, there are nuances.
              You can take only autofocus fast 35/2 in general, since it’s very much praised right now, and the rest can be obtained by manual guides - it’s very convenient to work with them in Fujah.

              fifty is not particularly needed

              • Jury

                Twice the Olympus crop spoils everything - the pictures in most reviews seem to be shot from a soap dish. There are very few pictures with shallow depth of field. Apparently, this explains the more affordable price with excellent quality of both cameras and optics. It is probably suitable for amateur reporting, but the volume in the pictures is important to me.

                If I decide to change the system, then I will not wait for X-T2 / X-T20 or take X-Pro2 - there will be no money left for the lenses) Most likely, I will consider X-T10 or X-E2, new or used.

                It is also possible that I will stay on a warm tube D80, and for the proceeds from the sale of the D700 I will buy one or two full-frame lenses. I think this is a more reliable investment than a camera, which is becoming much cheaper. On the one hand, the D80 already seems dull in terms of autofocus, and the ISO is holding my hands, on the other hand I shoot mostly in the afternoon, and for the evening landscapes I will take my own small 20-cm tripod.

                “Normal top zoom” - do you mean 16-55mm f / 2.8?

            • Lynx

              so - go to the store, twist in your hands, and olik and fudzhik.
              browse through the viewfinders.
              and on flick - look at the examples, everything is pretty well sorted there.
              one thing, but if you suddenly DO NOT like the shots from Olik and you hear “yes it is for top fixes, but you don’t need zooms, they don’t give a picture” - hammer on Olik.
              And if you like it, then oliks have very tasty colors.

              • Jury

                Yes, I will. As for the Olympus - I think that after a soap dish with a small matrix, I would have liked it, but after the D700 I can not take it seriously.

            • Lynx

              So ... sobsno for the sake of "the city and the people" he was acquired by me.

            • Lynx

              point by point .. and the top ten and e2 is now quite easy to take used in good condition - people merge for the second bug.
              top zoom is 16-55 / 2,8 and 10-24 / 4 if you need shirik
              In general, there you’ll have to think about lenses, but for me it’s “fast for all occasions” zoom or fix (even the very first, plastic whale, often comes in with people), and everything else is easy to close with manual guides, especially for the first time.

              • Jury

                Just looked at Avito - plenty of offers. There is still X-Pro1, but as I understand it, today it is much inferior to X-T10 and X-E2.
                16-55, of course, is cool, but all the compactness is killed) I think 18-55mm F2.8-4 + one or two fixes will be preferable in my case. The first is for a “walk," the others are for creativity.
                Support for the manual - bold plus bzk - I just have Jupiter-37A, and Jupiter-9, and some Helios.

          • NE

            Nikon’s skintons is yes, a problem ... until you try RPP

            • lynx

              Yes, the colors in C1 calmly stretch, but why this hemorrhoid?

              • NE

                I agree. I corrected the BB in A1M1 and it turned out canon :)

        • Lynx

          In IDEAL, of course, you need to have both FF and Fujik.
          In this case, Fujik - you can crumb X70, and FF is better immediately SF. )))
          But keeping two systems is extremely expensive.
          Yes, there are people who hold both 2 and 3 systems.
          Rashap, for example, seems to have Mark3 (or already sells it) for “hackies”, SF for normal operation and Fuji x100 for Fuji.
          Lena Liseikina (LJ - liseykina), as far as I know, used to shoot all of her stunning landscapes on Nikon (six hundred, it seems), then she took Fujiki (different models). For a long time I used both Nikon and Fujik alternately, being insured by six hundred on important filming. Now - the one about Nikon is not heard from her at all.
          Again, if you are not a hipster, and come to custom shooting models with xt10 and 35/2 instead of mark3 and 70-200, then you simply will not understand and will not talk. Unless of course you are such a dude that all customers prostrate themselves at the sight of you and do not have time to see what you are holding there. )))

          • Jury

            It is unprofitable for me to keep two systems, and I don’t really need to. I don’t make money with photography and don’t limp, I don't care how solid the camera or lens looks. Thank you for the tip on Lena Liseykina - I'll see.

            • Lynx

              then Fujik, Olik, Sonya, you can look. But personally, I’m not very Sonya.
              the most “street-walking" systems. "

              • Jury

                The main task - the color at the Nikon CCD level - I do not want to bother with processing, I want a good JPEG right away. The rest is secondary.

            • Lynx

              Well, on my site all the photos taken after January of this year - on a camera jeep fuji with different settings. can be oriented.

              • Jury

                Already quite a lot I looked at the pictures from the Fujiks - in general, everything is great. So far it’s hard to say what is more like - Nikon CCD or Fujifilm. Oh, it’s not an easy task to choose a camera. This is not a car for you))

            • Lynx

              let's just say - by color / DD Fujik, we lose some places. Two hundred - more likely parity. but for d200, workers have ISO up to 400, and for Fujik, up to 3200 norms, so.

              • Jury

                And in comparison with the D80, what do you think? In my opinion, the D200 gives a darker and more natural light, and the D80 embellishes a little more. This is subjective - I draw conclusions from my own pictures.

            • Lynx

              dash knows to be honest.
              I will not say which is worse or better. Others are few. All the same, in Fujik there are predefined profiles for jeeps - they are based on films - Provo, Velvia, Astra, Kodakhrom, etc.
              And Nikonov ssd on Nikon ssd.

            • Lynx

              https://events.webinar.ru/394295/Fuji0206 there is a chance that you will have time to watch the Fuji webinar today

              • Jury

                Thank you, but, unfortunately, did not have time (It is a pity that they do not record them.

    • kituchenyj

      It is, in general, for movie cameras, but why not buy it, and then try to add it through the adapter. I don’t know how on the X-T10, but on the X-M1 it can do. It does not fit, then at such a low price, a small loss.

    • Lynx

      Learn to read for a start

      • anonym

        Serious beast lynx, does not understand humor (my answer was to the April Fools post by Yuri)

        • Lynx

          Oh, and the truth is not noticeable that this is in response to comments, and not a new thread.
          Sorry. )))

          • anonym

            Regards, accepted.

  • Crazy lemeng

    Hello. I bought myself this device. And I just can’t figure out how to shoot on it with focus on one object, so that the rest is vague. I tried with an open aperture, but it does not work. had previously dealt with Nikon. This turned out to be not very clear to me.
    I tried a bunch of modes and still. And is it possible to take photos with beautiful bokeh?

    • Valery A.

      Hold on, right now the Lynx will be freed, she will give you. And at what focal point are you trying, not shirik? The matrix is ​​crop, it should be something like with Nikon.

      • Crazy lemeng

        Whale lens 16-50 3/5 - I try on a focal length of 30-40 mm. Maybe I'm not setting the set of settings. I tried it in M ​​and S mode, and set A on the shutter speed ring, all the same, no use. Tell me, which set is best set to focus on an object with a blurred background?

        • Yarkiy

          To get a blurry background, the recipe is not complicated. The aperture is wider, the focal length is longer, the subject is closer, and the background is farther away. It is possible in mode M, but better in A, and focusing on one point, to begin with on the central point, and with experience, the rest will go.
          The whale lens is certainly not ideal for bokeh, but you can shoot perfectly with it.

          • Crazy lemeng

            Thank you

    • Oleg

      if it is a whale lens then beautiful bokeh is problematic. We need at least 50 \ 1.8 or 85 \ 1.8

      • Crazy lemeng

        Thank you, kind person. And bokeh in general only turns out at fast?

        • Anonymous # 2

          Took popcorn, waiting for Lynx's frantically furious response

        • Oleg

          In general, yes, beautiful bokeh is the lot of fixes or expensive 70-200 / 2.8. You can try the budget 55-250, but not much is wrong. Buy a fast fix depending on your budget. 50mm and aperture 5 is a lot to blur. Now, if 50mm and 2.8- this is another matter. Another nuance is the number of diaphragm petals, preferably 7 and higher, the more the petals, the fewer nuts in the bokeh. You can look in the direction of manual optics: Jupiter-37a, for example, or for the first time buy a penny gelik

          • Crazy lemeng

            That's it, I’m shooting a question about bokeh. Now this: how normal, sorry for my inexperience, remove the sky and clouds in sunny weather. My sky just turns white (I just can’t set it normally, or is it just with a long exposure tripod?

            • Denis

              options 2
              1) gradient filters
              2) HDR photo from 2 frames

              • Crazy lemeng

                I will try to do in HDR, there is a bracketing plug

            • Yarkiy

              Shoot in RAW, take the exposure in the sky, best of all on a beautiful cloud (the metering is naturally spotted), at the same time, focusing to infinity will go away. Re-arrange the frame with the half-pressed shutter button and squeeze, making the frame. Naturally, the earth will be in the dark, dark, but when developing, information from the shadows is easier to stretch than from the overexposure.

              • Crazy lemeng

                I can’t do it in RSF (a small battery and a flash drive

            • zengarden

              Your sky is overexposed, and judging by the shadows, the sun is somewhere ahead of the left; in which case what clouds? one haze ... If the focus is on a dark object, then on a light background (sky) all the details will be eaten. You can (and should) play with the light / shadow settings, metering modes; as mentioned above, you can focus on the cloud, but this is not the best option - the camera may start to fool; but to fix the exposure is better for him. Well, the exposure compensation wheel, yes.
              The camera has a wide dynamic range, but requires thoughtful settings.

              Above, Comrade Trekhsotkovich described "his" regimes; and here is the link to the original (only for X-T1): http://vk.com/topic-23327078_29633121?post=7310
              You do not need to blindly copy the settings, but to understand what and what affects it - you have to figure it out, this will greatly facilitate the work in the future.

              Photo with whale 16-50, the sun, clouds

        • zengarden

          You can with this whale. How exactly, Comrade Yarkiy explained.
          In general, the concept of a “beautiful boke” is too subjective.
          If aperture optics is of interest, then the easiest one to try is to put any manual fifty dollars (some Soviet Helios) through an adapter; moreover, the camera has convenient tools for focusing (magnification, focus picking, pseudo-range finder).

          • zengarden

            Kit 16-50, aperture 5.6, why not a boke? :)

            • Valery A.

              For the portrait of a snail, excellent bokeh (which greatly depends on the focusing distance), but you will not shoot people with 30 cm.

              • Denis

                but you can sew a portrait, like a landscape of fragments ...

              • zengarden

                This is an illustration of the remarks above that the type and degree of blur depends heavily on the distance to the subject and the background. In general, there are visual calculator programs (even links were laid out here), where you can specify the shooting parameters and see how the photo will look approximately.

                And this is the X-T10 + Konica Hexanon AR 40mm f1.8, to the object about half a meter, the background is somewhere a little more than a meter

    • Lynx

      Buy yourself a fujifilm 56 / 1,2 and you will have super bokeh. Or 90/2

  • Dmitriy

    Here, I got rid of the 40D, which was bought for a long time, but as a home camera I did not take root. Used for business, but not as everyday.
    So I decided to take the X-T10. Only it is necessary to solve with optics. I think the first to take 18-55, incl. used such a staffer on forty. Or 35/2, but I don’t think that they can only manage to do it ... What will anyone say?

    • zengarden

      If we take the "whale" option (camera + lens), then the difference between 16-50 / 3.5.-5.6 and 18-55 / 2.8-4 will be ~ 18 thousand rubles. There is, of course, a difference between XC and XF lenses; but how critical is it?
      Perhaps, for the first time, a whale with a zoom of 16-50 + will be optimal for inexpensive manual fixes through an adapter. And then already figure out what exactly you need from the fixes, save up money and buy.
      PS. X-T10 complete with fixes on sale did not see.
      PPS The option of a whale with a zoom is much cheaper than a carcass + lenses separately.
      In general, you can buy an X-T64 + 10-16 + 50-50 kit (a dark but high-quality telezoom) for ~ 230 thousand rubles.

  • Dmitriy

    Well, at prices - carcass and 18-55 stand separately 36-40t.r. and 25-28 tr Whale 62-65 tr
    18-55 I missed from a friend for 22 tr, gave a new one. The secondary market for a relatively new camera is still weak ...
    A whale with dark zooms saw, yes, profitable, but they are dark. In me at Canon all the optics 2.8 were, that zooms, that fixes ...

  • Dmitry

    At one time they criticized the Nikon sb-400, and now advertise its analogue.

  • Alexey

    Let me ask you a question.

    I am faced with a choice, this camera really liked both the reviews and the functionality! But like everywhere but. Explain a number of questions please:
    1. Stability in carcass or optics?
    2. Can the bulb mode be extended for more than 60 minutes?
    3. So, native optics are very expensive, if you take a new one, are there any analogues from third-party manufacturers but cheaper and with a stub?
    4. Optics adapters from canon and Nikon are stabilization and autofocus supported?

    Thank you, really looking forward to hearing.

  • Andrei

    I have had a camera for six months now, I can say the minuses and pros with regards to the device itself and optics.
    I like very much: weight of the device, autofocus accuracy, sharpness.
    Like: the pullability of RAV.
    I do not like it: freezing, gluttony on power or weak batteries, autofocus in poor lighting, the need for good developer performance, the position and mobility of the controls.

    • zengarden

      Batteries need to immediately buy a couple of spare ones.
      Here for me, the main minus of the camera (and the system as a whole) is the lack of a stabilizer on the matrix, like Olympus, for example. To remove manual optics, especially telephoto lenses (large heavy lenses), is completely unhappy: the slightest stir turns into soap :(

      • Andrei

        It turns out that 1 battery for 1 ... 2 hours, depending on the activity of shooting. Compared to the Canon 70D that I have, for my rhythm of shooting there one battery is enough for 4 ... 6 hours and never discharged more than two for a shooting day.
        Regarding the stabilizer, it is certainly bad that it is not on the matrix, but there is an excellent stabilizer in optics. I didn’t plan to use manuals on Fuji, only my native lenses, so this cup passed me.

  • Valery Demyanov

    Who wants to plunge into the beautiful world of fuji, he has a great opportunity to exchange his nikon df for my chic branded kit, consisting of fuji xe2 with a grip handle, with the latest firmware like xe2s, fujinon 35 1,4 glass; 18 2,0; 60 2,4; and all sorts of goodies (batteries, adapters, etc.) are included. Everything is in perfect condition, the carcass is under warranty, which is what I wish you. I want everything!

  • Max

    He switched to the X-T10 from the canon 5dm2. I do not regret about anything. AF is better, and it works, unlike canon. Canon simply doesn't have DD, I can write a lot about DD Fuji. Files are pulled in all directions without loss of quality and noise. Sharpness and clarity are super, soap glasses from Canon can not even dream of such a thing.
    Whoever screams that the fuji is a threshing floor, they simply didn’t shoot on them. not ff, so what? X-T1 (10) will calmly give odds to the third brand in terms of picture quality. Proofs are, not empty words. You just don’t need to compare Fuji from 16-50 and Mark 3 with 85 1.2 ... Put 56 1.2 on Fuji and your mark will sit on the ass. Well, tell me those tasks that Fuji will not cope with.

    I use purely in commercial photography, beat / fashion shooting, studio. I have not tried it in the report yet. Everything is gorgeous on the street, but I'm waiting for the summer for more complete tests.
    The quality of the glasses in Fuji is gorgeous. And they basically have all the top-end glasses. There are no bad ones.

    • Oleg

      And where are the proofs?

    • Denis

      The engine was at death - flooded Suprotek.

      On the first day, the knee and expansion joints stopped knocking, on the second - burnt valves and worn rings flew out of the exhaust pipe - new ones grew instead.

      The engine stopped eating oil, it worked like new!

      On the third day, fuel consumption decreased, on the fifth - consumption decreased to zero, after a week - the engine began to produce fuel itself!

      On the tenth day, rot disappeared from the body, a dent in the roof cleared, a crack appeared on the windshield, lights were polished, a new right mirror grew, a condo appeared in the car, and the seats were covered with leather.

      My sleep, appetite and potency improved, I lost 10 kg, at work I increased my salary by 4 times, my wife herself brought a young lover.

      Thank you Suprotek!

  • Igor

    Maybe about the volume this is purely your far-fetched opinion and biased attitude in double-crop?

  • Igor

    And I don’t understand if you are kzhe, as the user Fuja S 5 does not see the difference in the shade color of modern fujas?

  • Pentaxist

    There were almost all Nikon DSLRs from D200-300-700-700-7100-800-XNUMX
    Eight hundred in service.
    Lord, what kind of flour is it to muddle in Photoshop his ravas, 4 hours of reporting and until the morning of processing.
    There is X-T10 and it is planned to upgrade to X-T2.
    X-T10 has a strong minus for me, this is the size, I am for any miniature in the framework of decency, here it is treated only with “crutches”.
    In all other respects, it is a long-forgotten pleasure to receive photos from a camera and not a computer, certainly not to compare with the “warm tube sound” pah ..., with a wet process, but there is something akin to this.

  • Dmitriy

    Now the X-T1 carcass has fallen in price, of course. They are with the Pentax K-3 at about the same price.
    I select an apparatus for amateur landscape photography, and these two applicants really like the picture. According to Fuji, you can, of course, “make a breakthrough” and take with a lens 35 / 1,4 or a little shorter. But if I want to "get out" of the landscape, then invest in my native Fujinons and investing ... And looking at Pentax, I understand that, in the future, I can afford much more from his native optics. It may not be limited, but even in non-autofocus versions (-M, -A) there were good lenses that would work fully on the K-3 carcass. In general, “scratching turnip” ...

  • NE

    About flash and investment protection: Most recently, Nissin launched the Nissin Commander Air 1 Fujifilm Radio Transmitter. This is a “cross-platform” TTL-controller in terms of controllable devices with support for fast synchronization (+ for nikon rear-curtain sync). If you use a Nissin Air R receiver, you can use Nikon, Canon, Nissin system flashes. The Air R receiver is already integrated in the Nissin di-700a. Moreover, using the controller, you can simultaneously control flashes from different systems. I have such a kit for Nikon - I bought it about 3 months ago and am actively using it. There are no complaints so far. The price tag for the transmitter + receiver is ~ 10 tr, cheaper than Phottix or PocketWizard three times ...

  • anonym

    For the soul and design it is better to take Nikon DF.

    • Michael

      Look at wide-angle lenses from 10-12 mm

  • Sky

    If you answer the main question of the life of the universe and in general, then this is not 42, but M42 :)

  • Michael

    Good afternoon. I can write a review on x-e1, x-t1 and 27mm 2.8. Will you be interested in this?

    • Michael

      Write to mail is better - comments are not always read

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, it will be interesting, do it.

    • Gregor

      Michael, where are the reviews? Everyone is waiting)

  • Gregor

    Prompt please,
    when using the zoom (by pressing the rear wheel) before taking a picture,
    Does the camera return to non-zoom mode first or take a picture right away?
    Thank you

    On younger models, it was made rather inconvenient - first return to non-enlarged mode, then a snapshot.
    Maybe someone already mentioned, did not find

    • Oleg

      YES, on the X-T10 everything is exactly as you described: “first return to non-enlarged mode, then a snapshot”.

      • Gregor

        Thank you!

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