Overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless camera in the hands of an amateur. Review from the reader Radozhiva.

Review Fuji X-T10 prepared Lynx which is an editor Happy. This review is also available on his website. here. Anonymous, remember, Lynx doesn't look like some!

Review Fujifilm X-T10

Review Fujifilm X-T10

An overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or a mirrorless in the hands of an amateur, as well as: "mirrorless versus DSLRs - yes or no?"

All amusing nonsense is exclusively a lynx imha,

and based on the subjective experience of filming

to SLR and mirrorless cameras.

If you answer to the main question of the life of the universe and in general briefly and immediately - it all strongly depends on the requirements. In a considerable number of cases, the X-T10 / X-T1 is a very good replacement for an amateur DSLR (that's it, you don't have to read any further;)).

The exceptions, it seems to me, are:

  • professional reportage and its most difficult types (just do not confuse it with “reporter shooting” from pop concerts, performances of a children's sports school and club photos);
  • art and fashion shooting with high detail and shallow depth of field (if you have money for a medium format and optics for it, as well as understanding why this is necessary, this article is completely not for you)
  • Carrying a “cool cool DSLR” to impress customers and generally the feeling of working with “serious equipment” (yes, the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras are peculiar, and the look often “does not inspire confidence in“ serious people ”).

Most of the performance characteristics (matrices, dimensions, weight, etc.) can be viewed on the Internet, read the praises of the “original fuji matrix with a non-Bayer filter” (with which lightroom still works buggy, by the way) and learned phrases that “now you don’t need to wear a lot , and shoot for your own pleasure. "
Focus on honestly subjective.


The most asked and controversial topic. The X-T10 has hybrid focusing - contrast focusing throughout the entire field of the frame, plus phase focusing along the central part of the frame, the coverage area of ​​the phase sensors is approximately comparable to those of Nikon D600. When choosing focus points, hybrid points are highlighted a little brighter than the rest. Focusing is fast, although it depends a lot on the lens, however, as always.

It is said that in cramped light conditions, the camera completely switches to contrast focusing, disabling the phase sensors. True or not, I don't know.

A very convenient option is to move around the frame not only one focus point, but also the “focus area” to several points, with adjustable size and proportions. A similar function (only without quick adjustment of the area) exists in professional DSLRs (for Nikon - starting with D200).

Focus Points Fujifilm X-T10

Usually, in mirrorless cameras, the joystick is configured like a “soap dish” - each button is assigned some action: changing the ISO / white balance / modes / selecting focus points. In the X-T10, in addition to this mode, you can turn on the “mode like a DSLR” - that is, four joystick buttons are immediately responsible for moving the focus point / area. And assign the desired adjustable parameters to the user settings screen - “Q”:

Fujifilm X-T10 Quick Menu

Focus Modes M / S / C? There is. Switch lever to the right of the bayonet. Classic.

Focusing with tracking objects on the frame field (what is called 3D focus in nikon)? There is. Although, it depends on the settings and contrast of the objects.

Face-based focusing? There is. In combination with the previous paragraph, it is very convenient to shoot children at play. And the ability to choose focusing according to the eyes, moreover, to choose from - on the left or right eye ...

Is the speed and focusing fast enough for amateur photography and general reportage? Definitely yes. At least, the focusing speed is not inferior (and sometimes exceeds in accuracy in dark conditions) the speed of my old s5pro, d90, d7000 and 3xxx / 5xxx series. Perhaps it may not be enough for professional reporting, but how many of those reading this are filming the Olympic Games?

A couple of subtleties:

  1. When shooting with continuous AF, the shutter mode must be “mechanical”. If the "electronic" or "electronic / mechanic" modes are selected, the focusing in the series will be performed on the first frame.
  2. There is such a very useful option as increasing the frame at the focus point by pressing the rear control dial (when viewing the footage it also works, by the way). Relevant for both manual and automatic focusing modes. Alas, it works only when focusing "one point".


Just want to warn about one important point in the ergonomics of mirrorless cameras in general and “dozens” in particular. Unlike DSLRs, these are more like “left hand cameras”.
That is, it is easy to carry the camera “on the fingertips of the right hand " you are unlikely to succeed - your fingers will cramp, especially with a massive lens. The only exceptions are the configurations with a "kit", and 18 and 27 mm "pancakes". And this is the very feeling that the use of professional mirrors gives: "the camera is like an extension of the hand!" - will also be absent.

Despite some "oblique" models of the X-T series "for DSLRs" - all these thumb rests, a ledge on the pediment and other tricks, the principle of wearing system cameras is noticeably different from the central locking system. The first time you have to relearn.

An additional battle block / grip can partially correct the situation (at the same time making the camera more massive), bringing the ergonomics closer to the "mirror" one, but alas, for the X-T10 it is not provided even for the Chinese.
If only to do it yourself. ;)
From my current point of view, a Chinese leather sheath is enough. People with affluence and desire can buy the original case and additional grip from Fuji. Today it is about 4500 rubles for each point.

Fujifilm X-T10 with modding handle

For those who have spent a lot of time shooting with film SLRs and rangefinders (or had experience working with puppies;)), they will only have to remember old skills.

wearing exampleSo, the X-T10 is held in the left hand. Quite, just like the old zenith (or puppy): the thumb and forefinger form a “fork” for gripping and holding the lens, and the palm and other fingers hold the camera from below. It is comfortable, practical, leaves the right hand free, and protects the camera.
Wearing exampleYes, if you want to shoot with the camera stretched out and holding it in your right hand, this is a trick. However, with many lenses it will be difficult. Carrying in the left hand is much more convenient.

The complete neck strap, like most cameras, is hard. But high quality. True quality. And without the huge inscription "HEY PASSANS - HERE IS A DUDE WITH A MAGAZINE CAMERA!" So you can take a little time to knead it and get it fit.

If the neck strap is uncomfortable for you - I recommend putting a synthetic or leather wrist strap on the left - the belay and grip will definitely improve.

In general, Fuji and Olympus mirrorless cameras, with their ergonomics, dictate a slightly different shooting style than CZK. But we will consider the article “the influence of the type of camera on the psychological aspects of artistic creation” another time.

All buttons (except perhaps for the video recording button) are convenient and accessible, they are easily found blindly, they are pressed with good response, but without excessive stiffness.

The control wheels (both front and rear), in addition to rotation, can be pressed like buttons. On the front you can select an action, the back, by pressing, increases the focus area in full screen.

Turning on the camera - with a rotary lever around the shutter button, everything is like in Nikon.

All Fuji mirrorless cameras are used to control the exposure pair and modes: the aperture is set on the lens, and on the camera body - excerpt and exposure compensation. True, for several inexpensive lenses that do not have an aperture ring, the exposure is made by the control wheels, as in Nikon.
И excerpt and the diaphragm have the “A” position - auto in the extreme positions. By placing them in the “A” position in different combinations, we get modes M, A, S and P. Everything is simple and convenient.

In case you need to hand the camera into the hands of someone who is not familiar with the intricacies of shooting, there is an “auto” lever under the shutter speed dial, which turns the camera into “green” mode with tracking autofocus.

By the way, the mode is quite hysterical - for some reason it has a constant, non-disconnectable, tracking autofocus, so the lens constantly buzzes and fidgets. As it turned out, unprepared people are unnerved, as if they were given a small nimble animal.

On the left, on the top panel, there is a drive for selecting drive modes (single frame, fast and slow series), two types of brackets (according to exposure, types of films and more. Configured in the menu) of two types of filters (about them below), as well as panoramic shooting and multiple exposure... The latter is very conveniently implemented - after shooting the first frame, it is superimposed on the screen with a translucent background, so that you can see the combination of images.

Viewfinder and screen

The screen is typical for the present time, just over three inches, with good color rendering and angles. I recommend sticking a matte protective film or glass - it will be much more convenient to work under the bright sun. Leans back with the help of the protrusions on the left (they cling well with the nail of the index finger), down 45 and up 90 degrees.
Viewfinder… I've seen different viewfinders, both in old Fuji models, in sony-nex babies and in new Olympus. To be honest - this is the best! Both in colors and in detail. Subjectively, it is only slightly smaller than the viewfinder of a full-frame DSLR, but larger than on the crop, especially the “younger” one.

The viewfinder and screen can be switched using the proximity sensor and have 4 modes:

  • Only the screen works (constantly)
  • Only the viewfinder works (constantly)
  • The screen works, but when brought to the eye (about 5-7 cm), it switches to the viewfinder
  • Only the viewfinder works, but it turns on only when brought to the eye.

The “sleep” button is badly lacking, as it is, for example, implemented in modern cell phones - every time you click the switch gets tired.

Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings and the quick user menu”.

As befits mirrorless, not related to technical parameters JVI - both the screen and the viewfinder can display a lot, a lot of any additional information, starting with ISO / shutter speed / aperture and ending with the virtual horizon and three types of manual focus assistance.
The main advantage EVI (and screen) Fuji was able to display the space with the already selected settings. Example photo on fujifilm X-T10

For example, if you shoot in manual mode and you twist the shutter speed and aperture too much, the camera will show you an almost black screen. Or strongly overexposed, depending on the parameters.

Example photo on fujifilm X-T10
And using the exposure compensation wheel (located on the top of the camera, on the right), you can easily choose the lighting of the frame, for example, when shooting an evening city - from light twilight to deep night with lights.



Everything is simple, convenient, concise, with a bunch of possible fine-tuning "for yourself".
The menu logic is closest to Nikon's - a vertical column of squares a1-a5 / s1-s3 to the left and pop-up menus from it. In the Russian version, you sometimes have to pry into the instructions what certain abbreviations mean. But in general, everything is clear.


The first and most important thing about Fuji system lenses is that almost all of them are tops. Yes, that's right, there are practically no “cheap and compromise” glasses in fujiks, with the exception of a 27 mm fixer and several “whales” of standard focal lenses (16-50 and 55-200). And even in this case, the simplest 16-55 / 3,5-5,6 produces a very, very good picture.
Most of the fixes have aperture f / 1,4, some at f / 2, zooms from f / 2,8. The construction is almost always all-metal, without any rubber bands and plastic.
About any of the Fuji lenses, we can say: "Matsash in hands, sweep - a thing!"
The advantage of this approach is the fact that you really want to shoot with any of the lenses without bothering. The downside is the price. Who wants to be horrified by modern prices - welcome to the Yandex market.

Fuji lenses feature electronic control rings - transmission of zoom, aperture and focusing parameters is not mechanical, but electronic. On the one hand, it allows you to make smooth adjustment when shooting a video, as well as full dust and moisture resistance of the lens. On the other hand, you will also have to get used to this, the reaction of the lenses is not as unambiguous as with mechanical control.

But there is a fairly large stroke of the focus ring, about two turns from MDF to infinity, which gives great opportunities when shooting.

I happened to shoot on 4 lenses of the Fujifilm system:

  1. 16-50 / 3,5-5,6. The standard and most common whale. Plastic, although the design completely repeats the older brothers. There is no aperture ring - aperture and stabilizer control - from the carcass, like in a DSLR. The first version was boring in drawing, but not bad in sharpness (it is often preferred to the more expensive 18-55 / 2,8-4), the second - they say even better, but I have not yet got my hands on it. Built-in good stabilizer.
  2. 35 / 1,4. Amazing "normal" lens. Sharpness, drawing, constructive - everything is on top! Completely metallic. Has a diaphragm ring. It can be safely recommended as a standard and main lens for creative and family photography.
  3. Example photo on fujifilm X-T1023 / 1,4. Very nice shirik with a huge aperture and no less enormous price. Cut across the entire field almost immediately from the open. For its characteristics, it is quite compact, although not easy, all the same it is a metal structure. Switching to manual mode - like on Tokina lenses - you need to pull the focusing wheel towards you, opening the distance scale and depth of field. Among the shortcomings - except that the focusing ring and aperture rotate very easily, sometimes they get confused by a simple touch with a finger.
  4. LYNX2879_for review18/2. Reporting staff. EGF - 27 mm, classic reportage focal length of film times. Often they swear at him that he lathers the edges on an open aperture, but personally this does not really bother me. But it is very compact (the camera fits in a jacket pocket with it), relatively inexpensive and fast in focusing. And it also has its own, quite soulful pattern with volume. The focus and aperture rings are metal, with a tight, pleasant ride.




Yes, they do not last long - from 300 to 600 frames (someone mentioned 1000), depending on the mode of use, and you need to monitor / turn off the camera so that it does not eat too much (although there is a sleep timer). Yes, it's best to always have a spare with you. Yes, it is better to take the original, and not China (which are at least a third less capacious, and in general can glitch or burn out at any time. Yes, this is not cheap - the original now costs about 1,6-2,5 thousand (although you can manage to take it in within a thousand with all sorts of discounts).
Battery charging time is about an hour and a half in a situation "Oh, I ought to charge!" and about two are able "Well, everyone, we have arrived".

About color and light

Canonists, judging by the reviews on the forum, do not notice any losses in the dynamic range when switching to fujik. In flowers - they are very happy.
Nikonists, especially those with multi-pixel cameras (D610 / D7100), may find the dynamic range in jeepgs to be too small in highly contrasting scenes. But the raves are practically the same "stringy" as those of Nikon, and the colors and skin tone are undoubtedly better.

An example is a jeep without treatment, a jeep with extended shadows at +100 in lightrum, and a rav with extended shadows at +100 in lightroom:

Personally, after the "soak", with its huge DD in the jeepgs, I had to remember about raves and master Capture One, but the colors did not disappoint.

Flash work

With outbreaks, Fuji is a little complicated and a bit simple.

Difficult - because the system is new, and the models of third-party manufacturers of TTL-flashes for them - the cat cried, now there is only Meike-320 - a small two-battery, but quite successful model and Nissin-40i - a classic model with a swivel head, although the dimensions are slightly smaller than usual ...

Simply - because there are only three “native” flashes, you will not get confused:

  • EF-42, amateur classic flash, analogue of sb-700 - 4 batteries, swivel and lifting head, guide number - 42. There is autofocus illumination, but no remote control system. For mirrorless cameras - definitely large and inconvenient. Apparently it was developed "in spite of mirror makers."
  • EF-20, small dual-battery flash with the ability to "swing up". Control - through the camera menu, the guide number is 20. It couldn't be easier and, to be honest, uglier too.
  • EF-X20 flash on tripodEF-X20, a tiny “matchbox”, a guide number of 20, control - a single power and correction wheel on the top edge, a power button and a “Test” button. No zoom, no rotations, only built-in wide-angle adapter with lever. Among the shortcomings - perhaps not too fast a recharge cycle: 5-6 seconds at 1/1 power, and almost instantaneous starting from 1/4 and below. In addition to TTL and manual mode, it has the ability to remotely ignite from the built-in flash. The most stylish and convenient of the three (yes, it has AAA batteries, so you need a spare one).
  • There are rumors about a new "reporting" outbreak from Fuji, but so far there are no clear descriptions yet.

EF-X20 with cover:

flash EF-X20 kitflash EF-X20 comparison
X-T10 Flash Remote Control:

  1. for EF-X20 - by “ignition” from the built-in flash, in manual mode. At the same time, the bottom of the flash has a switch for TTL-mode, manual tracking, and “P” tracking mode, which apparently allows the flash not to react to “red-eye preflashes”. Well, studio / manual flashes are naturally also “ignited”.
  2. By sync cable, by hot shoe. They say that cables from the Canon system are suitable, but the arrangement of the contacts on the shoe is somewhat different from the Canon ones. Nikon's TTL cable doesn't fit exactly. Perhaps the so-called. A “universal TTL cable” would be the best solution in this situation.
  3. Radio synchronizers via hot shoe. Any - for manual modes, or possibly E-TTL for Canon system (info not verified).

Fuji EF-X20 and studio chinese flash:

Fuji EF-x20 and Chinese studio flash

A little trick that helps you not to worry about the invertedness of the flash:EF-X20 flash with reflector

With a forehead flash:

direct flash shot

And with a reflector from a piece of foil:

Shot with flash and reflector "to the ceiling"

As a means of holding foil paper, in increasing efficiency: fingers, elastic band for money, magnetic strip (bought in an advanced store for printers or from manufacturers of magnets)

For integrated flash X-T10, in the menu, has only 4 operating modes:

  • "Forced" is a simple TTL mode. Before operating, the flash must be raised with the lever on the left of the top panel.
  • Slow sync.
  • 2-curtain sync - read "rear curtain"
  • Commander Command mode. Alas, fujah has nothing like Nikon's CLS, in this mode the flash works with a minimum power sufficient only for ignition external flash.
  • Disabled flash. Why this item is needed, as well as the first one - I am lost in conjecture (after all, the flash fires only if it is raised), most likely the menu is as unified as possible with other camera models, and these items are intended for cameras with non-liftable flashes - to disable / enable them in this way. However, when this menu item is selected, the raised flash will not fire.

Additional built-in flash settings:

  • Flash exposure compensation +2 0 -2, in increments of 1/3.
  • Enabling disabling the “remove red eyes” mode. Moreover, it was implemented not by pre-flashes, as usual, but at the software level - the automation detects the face and “blackens the pupils”.
  • There is no manual mode.

Since the viewfinder (and the screen) shows the picture in accordance with the selected exposure pair and exposure compensation, allowing you to select shooting parameters in real time, for working with flashes and in the studio, the “screen” menu has a “view exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. When you turn it off EVI and the screen starts working as usual JVI... This function can be assigned to function keys “Fn”, but it cannot be assigned to Custom Menu “Q”.


Wireless communication in the X-T10 has four functions:

  1. Work with tablets and smartphones. Android and Ios.
  2. Autosave to the computer.
  3. Impressing geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone.
  4. Intax wireless wearable printer.
Work with tablets and smartphones.

Everything is very simple and fast. The application database (googleplay and applestory) has an application. It is downloaded, installed, configured, and now, each time you turn on Wi-Fi in your smartphone and Fujik, and confirm the connection in the camera, you get 4 functions:

  • Copying / receiving (not moving!) Selected photos to a smartphone (the camera has a function “transfer a compressed file”) In this mode, you need to select which photos to transfer and which not to transfer on the camera screen.
  • View camera memory. The same as the previous point, only in this case all copying and selection control takes place from the smartphone screen. Basically, it is a choice “what to put back in your pocket - a camera or a smartphone?”.
  • Shooting control - aiming, shutter release, changing shooting parameters - iso, excerpt, flash mode, timer, photo or video, correction exposure and so on.
  • Geotagging - transferring the coordinates of the current location to the camera when shooting.

Fujifilm X-T10 Wi-Fi connection screen
The connection is almost instantaneous. When working with a camera, working with the Internet via Wi-Fi on the smartphone is automatically blocked.
Among the shortcomings - every time after executing a menu item, when returning to the selection of items, you have to reconnect.
This function can be assigned to one of the function buttons “Fn”

PC autosave

A special autosave program is downloaded from the Fuji website (versions for Win and Ios), and, when installed, is assigned to startup, in standby mode. At the same time, you need to configure a network connection on the camera (name / password or several other methods) - through a home wifi router or access point. The network settings are then saved in the camera's memory. Up to six wifi- networks can be stored.
For autosave, you need to go to the photo view mode, and select the item “autosave on pc” there. It takes about 20-30 seconds to connect and authorize in the autosave program, and another half a minute to check and copy 10-20 jpg files.
Unfortunately, you cannot assign autosave either to function keys or to the custom menu.

Imprinting geotags for photos from a GPS smartphone

Everything is simple here - you turn on the GPS on your smartphone, run the same connection program, and it transmits the tags for recording to EXIF any freshly shot frame. At the same time it displays on the screen an icon “landmarks received”. For some reason, it is indicated that “the time of continuous operation is 1 hour”.

Instax SHARE SP-1 Wireless Wearable Printer

Intax printer

Photo - honestly stolen from the official website of the manufacturer.

This is a very funny idea from Fujifilm, based on their modern Instax Polaroid cameras. It is a printed block from a similar camera with a projector screen inside, a wi-fi module and powered by a pair of batteries.
Dimensions: 101,6 mm x 42 mm x 122,5 mm, weight: 253 g (without battery and film), hung with a clip on a belt.
The price is about 8-9 thousand rubles for January 2015.
Pictures are taken in size 46 * 62 mm, plus a white frame like a polaroid.
It feeds on cassettes from Fujifilm "a la Polaroid", for 10 pictures (type "mini"), the price of 4-5 hundred rubles each.
Whoever has read this far is already well done!
Basically, this amusement is needed for all sorts of parties, and for paid photo shoots, when in half a minute, during the shooting, you can make several “photos for a purse” - a pleasant surprise for the customer. Well, or you can make a concept exhibition.


Film Profiles and Job Emulation

The camera has half a dozen preset color profiles, mostly imitating certain types of film, including the legendary kodak chrome and classic sepia. Moreover, it shows them immediately in the viewfinder when shooting. And also - 7 options for user settings (in which film profiles are just one of the adjustable parameters). Any of these can be switched through the quick menu or by assigned function keys, by the combination “pressed the button-turned the wheel / clicked the joystick”. The fun options that can be assigned to the left “tower” are black and white with only one color tolerance - red, yellow, blue, green and orange.

color choice - blue

color choice - red

Memory cards

One of the differences between x-t10 and x-t1 is frame buffer... In X-T10, it is limited to about 8-10 frames, and after that the camera thinks about recording to a USB flash drive. In many forums it is recommended (and I agree) to spend on a high-speed card, with a speed of at least 80-95 Mbps. The recording lag drops significantly - at a slow serial speed, the card overflow does not occur at all, at a fast speed it starts to slow down after the tenth or twelfth frame.
No, some inexpensive card, like the Transcend Class 10, is not fast and slows down a lot. The recording speed must be indicated on the card (or in the description). Some kind of SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC 16 GB (or better 32) is good enough.

The most “continuous-rapid-fire” option is the “jeep-normal” option with the minimum file size and all the enhancements disabled - about 20 frames (2,5 seconds) of continuous shooting without slowing down the speed.

True, all of the above concerns the jpg format, in raw - a camera with a fast card slows down the shooting speed somewhere after the tenth frame in a slow burst and after the sixth or seventh in a fast burst (but does not stop shooting!).

XNUMXrd party lenses

Through the appropriate adapters are put almost any. The most common adapters on the M42, on the M39, Nikon and Canon. Alas, for autofocus glasses, the iris control (and even more so the focusing drive or zoom) will not work. Of particular interest is the possibility of using interesting rangefinder glasses.

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS (via Fuji-M42 adapter)

Fujifilm X-T10 and Jupiter-37MS

Lens caps

Uncomfortable, and slip out of your fingers. Classic "a la nikon" is much more practical. But it's easier to put a good protective filter and forget about the covers.

Wishes to the developers of Fujifilm:

  1. menu item "view exposure in manual mode - on / off ”. - very much needed in the “custom Q menu”.
  2. the function “connect to tablet” and “autosave” need to be added to “custom Q screen”
  3. I really need a "sleep" button under duress, or at least setting in the sleep timing menu not only for 2 and 5 minutes - they are too long.
  4. Also, I would very much like the mode “in the viewfinder - the image, on the screen - only the settings, and the quick user menu”. - as it is already implemented with the mode of viewing pictures. And then, setting the "viewfinder only" mode, it is impossible to adjust the shooting parameters on the screen, and to shoot - only through the viewfinder, as on DSLRs.
  5. On the button / command "turn on wi-fi" you need to make a choice - they will connect to a tablet or computer / other networks (and not scatter it into two commands in two different menus), otherwise you have to climb each menu to turn on autosave in order to throw off a pair -three photo. Well, it connects for a long time, unfortunately. Maybe what kind of usb-wifi device to release so that it can be plugged into the computer - and it immediately connects the camera, with the same program as in smartphones?

Price and consistency

Alas and ah, the option “I'll go to a mirrorless camera, everything is cheaper and better there” is a myth.
If you completely switch to a mirrorless system, with native lenses, automation and convenience, you will have to spend money.

I'll make a reservation right away - yes, there are inexpensive solutions for a narrow range of tasks.

For example, for “purely manual work with high-quality color” there is a very suitable and relatively inexpensive fuji X-m1 on the secondary market. For 12-17 thousand, subject to the purchase of a used one, you get a tiny pocket crop-1,5, with a proprietary matrix, a set of adapters for the main systems (M42, M39, watering can, Nikon), a manual focusing system, Wi-Fi and a folding screen ... If you add your own “whale” 16-50 / 3,5-5,6 for 10 rubles - you have a device for creative, studio shooting and family holidays.

For street photography, the pocket and inexpensive Sony nex 5, 6, 7 versions, or A5100 are quite suitable. With pancake or whale. Or Olympus pen-series (starting with five).

Actually, a mirrorless inexpensive (at the price of a younger SLR) system for "Film the family and put the camera back in your pocket" these are non-top small models of Olympus / Sony / Fuji / Panasonic - without a viewfinder, with a rotating screen and a whale / pancake included (in the case of Olympus, a whale-pancake).

But! If you build a universal system with the optimal set of functions, good focus and automatic lenses, forget about the savings regarding DSLRs.

I'll give you a concrete example.
To switch to Fuji, I had to sell:

S5pro with all devices

Total - 71-73 thousand rubles.

For this amount bought:

  1. Fujifilm X-T10 - 43000 rubles (connected + 3000 bonuses from Fuji for the promotion +2000 points of the connected + 1270 rubles for saving for using the card when buying online).
  2. Fujinon 18 / 2 - a pancake-lens with an ERF of 27 mm (classic reportage film times) - 18000 rubles in M-video. And this is the old price, only in M-video there are few lenses left for such a price, the new price is 32000 rubles.
  3. Battery WP-126, native to Fuj, with a 2-year warranty, price of 1630 in the store, minus ~ 300 points with the "points" system from Sberbank, and minus 300 rubles for a review on a purchase in a connected camera. total - 1000 rubles in fact.
  4. Flash (I would like a couple) EF-X20 (9000 at the price tag in a connected) +2 sets of eneloop AAA batteries (1000 rubles / set) + SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC card 16 GB (1600 rubles). This whole set costs 12600 rubles, but - minus gift points from Fuji for the winter promotion, minus points from “Svyaznoy” from buying a camera, minus points for paying with a card - we get something about 8000 rubles.
  5. From ebeya adapters to M42, M39, Nikon ~ 1400 rubles.
  6. Kaleinar 5N - 1000 rubles in the commission.

Total ~ approximately the same 71-72 thousand rubles.

Not to say cheap, right? And this despite the fact that recently Fuji did raise prices for carcasses and optics.
However, it can be noted that these are new prices for new, and quality enough for their prices, products.

Why exactly x-t10, and not xt-1, x-e2, or new Olympus or sony?

With dormouse everything is simple - I don't like them. No view, no ergonomics, no picture.
With the Olympus - it's more complicated, the new OMD E10 Mark 2 and OMD E5 Mark 2 are the most convenient little cameras that I have ever held in my hands. Really - they directly flow into the hand and everything is convenient everywhere and does not shake anywhere. And there is a huge selection of lenses. And the viewfinder is good (although I liked the fujik much more). And branded Olympic beautiful colors. Stabilizer in the matrix. Fastest autofocus. Everything, literally everything is good!
Except for one “but”. Because of the crop-2, the Olympuses have the most boring picture, flat as a children's folding book-with-lock. There are absolutely no volumes. Even with good chiaroscuro. Even on top fixes. Alas. I didn't like it at all.
fuji X-E2 - there is no rotary screen and ergonomics are a little disliked.

Fuji X-M1 is one of the most successful fuji mirrorless cameras, relatively inexpensive, but alas, there is no viewfinder and hybrid autofocus, although as a second, pocket camera is quite good. An acquaintance of mine in St. Petersburg specially took her to work with manual lenses in the studio.

fuji X-T1 with the release of X-Pro 2 has lost its top status, losing to the new model in all respects, except for the price (not much) and the presence of a rotary screen. At the same time, the X-T10 outperforms the former flagship in smaller dimensions and weight, having the same matrix and focusing system, as well as a much lower price (about 20 thousand rubles), yielding only to the lack of weather protection, a little in the buffer and the size of the viewfinder, and having lost a few beautiful, but not critically necessary "twists" on the body.

Why mirrorless?

That's why:why fujik

By the way. A very big plus of such a system is that people, even unfamiliar ones, are not at all afraid of you, do not shy away like “from a big black camera”. This allows you to quite calmly shoot everyday scenes and other reportage interesting things.

Well, and one more thing. They really want to shoot.

You will find more materials from readers of Radozhiva here.

Add a comment:



Comments: 298, on the topic: Overview of the Fuji X-T10 system camera or mirrorless in the hands of an amateur. Review from the reader Radozhiva.

  • kituchenyj

    I quote myself (I wrote on another forum, they started to peck there, but I washed off on time):
    I'm not a pro, and I don't pretend. I shoot exclusively for myself. I started "flirting" with Fuji a year ago (I bought X-M1). It ended with the fact that I sold my D 7100 (before that there were D 90, D 3100, D 5300) with all the lenses, bought Fuji X-E2 and several lenses (I plan to expand the optics park).
    -best quality shots.
    -Much less rejection percentage by sharpness.
    -No front-back focus.
    - I can use, and comfortable, any third-party lens.
    - camera weight finally!
    04.02.2016/XNUMX/XNUMX. Fuji has released a new firmware. I reflashed it, at the output I received actually a new carcass with top-end functionality.
    IMHO: Nikon has cameras on the market with an APS-C matrix, and even more so with this approach to the consumer when releasing new firmware, there is NO FUTURE !!!
    PSWhen Nikon sets focus priority over the shutter, then the percentage of marriage when shooting offhand is ASTRONOMIC !!! Fuji has almost no marriage.

    • Vyacheslav

      Well, it’s you who specifically wrote for your copy of Nikon. Yes, there is a marriage in any technique.

  • Vyacheslav

    I bought a long time ago for the Nikon fujX10 system - a soap dish ... and sold at that time the second DSLR d3100 a week after buying this fuja - according to the advice of a friend - and he crossed with the 5M2 n afuji X-T10 + 56 \ 1.2 +23 \ 1.4 + 18mm - he is happy - I shot - yes, I want to shoot with a typewriter - for myself for a loved one - this is what I need - I would buy it myself - but pulling two systems is expensive, but for work all the same, my D800 + also has a set of fixes - it's more convenient for me - and in some genres the size dust and moisture matters too ... I often take pictures and it flows like a stream from the camera ....

  • witness

    Lynx bought a Kaleinar 5N lens for 1000 rubles in a commission and sells it already for 4500 rubles in VKontakte and still does not like criticism!

    • witness

      Lynx bought a Kaleinar 5N lens for 1000 rubles in a commission and sells it already for 4500 rubles in VKontakte and still does not like criticism!

      • witness

        And Lynx says he loves the comments in his feed.

        • witness

          Lynx's reaction to criticism

      • Georgy

        It’s interesting to the point of horror, but what did Lynx do so criminally when he started selling the kaleinar for 4,5 tyr. And then they begin to grab his hand and resent. Rave. In the end, this is his thing and he did not steal it. Correctly done that banned. After all, this is not criticism, but an expression of discontent due to the inconsistency of the actions of other people with some of their (often incorrect) expectations and beliefs.

    • Arkady Shapoval


      • Lynx

        Yes, epic. It’s even a pity that his attempts to troll were erased.

    • Lynx

      Just banned a fool so as not to distract with stupid things.

      • witness

        I hear from a fool. Earlier it was called “speculation” and was condemned by the society ...

        • Lynx

          What a horror. If you are so itchy - go to a thrift store and buy yourself the same for a thousand. Or even for 200 rubles, how I managed to find Jupiter-3 1: 1,5

          • witness

            Wow! Lynx himself answered! Thank you for your advice. It's nice that you love komenty and ask why people restrict the ability of komenty in their feed, and they block the person for komenty on their page ..

            • Lynx

              Not for the fact of comments.
              For stupid and fat trolling. Terribly fat.
              But your attention pleases me.
              Secret admirers fanatically following you - this is so intriguing!

              • witness

                An example of subtle trolling from Lynx ...
                Yes, I have been following your work for a long time and now I have the opportunity to express myself.
                I will continue to follow.

            • Lynx

              very nice. Go on.

              • witness

                You are welcome!
                I continue ...

        • www.fotika.com.ua

          Well, the fact that Rysya has a peculiar approach to worldview is a personal matter, everyone has a different roof, maybe a person does not have enough attention, or tries to show himself important or special by creating posts of this kind, or when he writes about comments (the ability to write them) it implies only positive, not negative. everyone sometimes likes GOD MODE to turn it on and freaks out that everything didn’t go kingly)))) but about the speculation you went too far. you would return to the scoop and discuss there. what's the difference for how much he bought and what? and how much does it sell? there is a market value (generally accepted), and if he managed to buy it cheaper and sell it more expensive, then somewhere in the coffin one railway train (or even 2) turned upside down.

          ps This is the way a person works, he (the person) does not like to take criticism of himself sensibly. Often taking this as a personal insult. Only a wise person can thank for reasonable negative criticism and draw conclusions. Since I put it on display, then wait for the rain, warm or cold it all depends on you.

          • witness

            Thank you, very sensibly explained. Yes, everyone only likes positive reviews about themselves, but they don't like negative ones .. And about the market value of the Kalainar 5H lens, then Lynx is not a speculator, but a dumpingist - he sells for 4500, but market prices are 5000, 6000, 8300 ...

            • Denis

              diagnostics also cost money)

              • witness

                Explain your comment - who did the diagnosis here?
                In your opinion, using the lens for your personal use is called “diagnostics”?

              • Denis

                bought for 1000, performed diagnostics, can be sold for 4500

            • Ivan

              In this case, Lynx negatively assessed not “criticism” but “unfounded and stupid criticism”, acting like an intelligent person - getting out of the dispute and banning the eccentric.

              and, sorry, speculation in a market economy? What is it? Is this what you call "trade"?

              • witness

                “Coming out of the argument and banning the eccentric” is funny, yes ...
                Then explain to me such a pearl of the market economy - The girl allegedly "replaced" the lens on a fixed camera for 80 euros and sells this camera for 89 euros - 9 euros? Why write such nonsense in sale ads?))

              • Ivan

                This “pearl” must mean that the camera was being repaired, where the faulty lens was replaced (or simply repaired), and the girl paid 80 euros for it.
                She indicated this in the ad. I do not see any deception and no bullshit on the part of the sellers either in the case of the Lynx or in the example you cited.

                However, you did not answer about the meaning of the word “speculation” in this context.

              • witness

                Speculation --— income generation due to the difference between the purchase and sale prices. (According to the Wikipedia article)
                Here the difference between the purchase price of 1000 rubles per lens and the sale price of 4500 rubles is 3500 rubles, or almost 300%.
                What was originally indicated in the commentary in Vkontakte and there was no indication of speculativeness.
                Just if you know the price for which a person purchased a thing, and for which it sells, it becomes funny, no more.
                In life, we are faced with speculation every day, only no one says that anymore and considers this word offensive ..

              • brighty

                Not an eccentric, but a fool! And in general, what kind of nonsense in the comments? I do not like the price - go for a walk, my thing, for as much as I want and sell it. What is the problem then? I made more screenshots, smart guy. Go to Ebay and try to call the sellers speculators there, we'll see how quickly they will ban you.

                P.S. Sorry for the harshness, I could not restrain myself, I hate it when they climb with such nonsense!

              • Ivan

                In, thanks, Bright! These are exactly the words that I was looking for.

              • witness

                yarkiy has bombed!
                1: 0!

            • Lynx

              Thank you all, the lens is sold.

    • Pastor

      Imagine, many photographers are engaged in such “speculations”, often not because of a good life, but because of the need to somehow pay off their hobby. For example, over the past month and a half on "speculations" I earned 50 thousand, but at the same time I spent more than 120 on the purchase of photographic equipment. This is from the beginning of February. So it turns out that he didn’t even recoup his hobby expenses, he only got 70 thousand. Are you offering to give everything away for free or at half price? Moreover, the price for kaleinar is quite adequate.

      • witness

        The old truth is known - “If you want to ruin your friend, give him a camera!
        And about your costs, a person creates difficulties for himself, and then he copes with them. Just need to thank him and he will create new difficulties for himself with more zeal.
        I wonder if wedding photographers have a “good” life? Is it paying off? Do they pay taxes on this and what kind of pension they will receive in old age?

        • Pastor

          So I didn’t say much about difficulties. He talked about hobby payback, what difficulties are there, explain? Who should thank me for anything, so that with greater zeal I would create some difficulties for myself?
          I am not a wedding photographer, so in my own skin I can’t say whether their life is good and paying off. But in general, as in any other business, someone is fine, but someone has the same problems. I think those who continue to work and take pictures have good life and pay off. Otherwise, why should they remain in the profession? On the other hand, for someone it’s both a job and a hobby, which means they are forced to work even without payback, purely out of thirst to shoot. Taxes are paid if registered as an individual entrepreneur or work in offices such as Janus Prospero (if he officially takes them). Accordingly, they will receive a pension in old age. Another thing is that not everyone works in the white, but these are their own problems. Well, counting on retirement in Russia, if you are from our country, I think is pointless. In Soviet times, people gave their whole lives and health in hazardous industries, schools, hospitals, and now they can’t pay for communal services. So, hoping for a state in terms of a pension is strange now. Given the freezing of pension savings for a year, and all these frauds with the FIU. I believe that it’s better not to dream about retirement, but to create your own reserves that will allow you to live in retirement, and maybe even retire early.

          • witness

            Thanks for the detailed answer!
            1. Thank probably relatives or acquaintances whom you photograph.
            2. We will create our own reserves that will allow us to live in old age!

            • Pastor

              Yes, you have to hear gratitude, but not always and far from where you expect them :) But in general, I personally get more pleasure from the process than from the result and its assessment. I think like a significant part of other photographers. And reserves must be created - yes. Many countries have been following this path for a long time from the countries of Europe with the United States (there is a lot of saving for retirement) to China, where there is no pension at all for the majority of the population and care for the elderly rests with their children. So there are two options for a good old age for photographers (and not only) - either raising children well (who would know how :)), or saving for old age, buying real estate, investing in gold / stocks / bonds / mutual funds / hedge- funds :) Or cool lenses, some of them are getting more expensive :)

  • kituchenyj

    After a long break, I looked at the comments and was horrified! Good people, what have you turned the photography forum into? And all because of one m ... ka, which the toad crushed for the lens? Just a person, apparently, from North Korea. I beg you, closer to the topic, gentlemen!

    • BB

      Well, actually, this is not a forum, but a blog ...

    • Lynx

      well, that happens.

      • Jury

        Lynx, your blog has a short note on the feel of the Fujifilm X-T10 and Nikon D700. What is subjectively more pleasant to deal with - a seven hundred or a fujik? Did you ever think that you had to go from full frame to full frame, and not to Fuji?

        • Lynx

          Well, there are already several notes of this kind, including focusing, how much it depends on the lens.
          subjectively ...
          Well, I’ll give you a “male example” - with whom is it subjectively better to walk around the city, with a professional photo model 1,8 m tall or with a cute little anime girl who is “for any bullshit except hunger strike”? )))

          subjectively, these are too different concepts and it is not very correct to oppose them. When you shoot with fujik, you realize that you are shooting with a camera with your buttons and knobs. When you are XNUMX, then you just shoot, not thinking about anything.
          It so happened that several photo walks we crossed with the owner of seven hundred. And yes, he has a larger viewfinder! (but this is of course FF against nettop crop, xt1 gives about the same coverage as FF)
          He - periodically sighs with admiration when removing my fujik. I am nostalgic about the d700, which is “not a camera, but an extension of the hand” - actually the XNUMX and its older brothers, for me, are the crown of the ergonomics of professional cameras.
          Yes, I had doubts whether to leave for the full frame. Serious.
          1.size. The pastor and I talked somewhere in the comments. For a person without a car, or not “going out on set like an ambulance,” size is the main factor “always take your camera with you”.
          Exactly the same with the film - I will rarely be able to carry kiev 19 with jupiter and helios, except for a special photo session, and I just throw olympus 35RC into my pocket or corner of my bag, and it is always with me.
          2. options. Unfortunately, after getting drunk, looking at Nikons and their skintons is extremely sad IMPOSSIBLE sad. Those who like squealing that “you can get everything you need in the lightroom” - go to the forest, I like to shoot, and not poke into the computer with a pipette.
          Yes, to be honest on the models themselves, after the d700 too. From the FF one could consider:
          - seven hundred. Not cheap, bush, you can get figs in normal quality and for a reasonable price. Morally outdated though, and the cake.
          - DF. expensive. Yes, the matrix is ​​from D4. but the focuser is from d600 (((
          - d500 ... guys, $ 1700 this may be normal for a professional reporter, but for me there are much more sane solutions for a lower price.
          all sorts of d600 / 750 nafig due to the fact that this is garbage, brittle shit and with horrible colors "out of the box", and triplets and fours - because of prices.
          And ALL the same, everything returns to paragraph 1.

          • Jury

            Lynx, thanks for such a detailed answer. I understand the difference between the D700 and the Fujik, I also understand that comparing them head-on is not entirely correct. It was precisely the subjective sensations that interested me during the use of the X-T10 after professional guidance.
            I’m considering switching from D700 to Fujifilm, because after warm lamp D50, D80 and D200 color D700 gradually disappoints. And the weight of the camera has been annoying lately.

            I see in favor of the D700 - volume, ISO (not fundamentally), viewfinder, ergonomics (although it's difficult to compare here - I didn't hold the X-T10 and X-T1 in my hands at all) and the battery. I also have good lenses for it: 20mm f / 2.8d, 35mm f / 2d, 50mm f / 1.8G. I understand that such a set for focal fuji will cost a lot of money.

            In favor of X-T10 (X-T1) - size and color.

            I shoot exclusively for myself, mainly - people, urban and natural landscapes, street photography. The D80 was functional above the roof. What would you suggest?

            As I understand it, JPEG in colors at the D50, D80 and D200 levels can now be obtained only from the Fujifilm or Olympus (or am I wrong?).

            • Lynx

              In principle, Olympus now has delicious colors - his new OMD 5 Mark2 and OMD 10 Mark2 are excellent, but ... crop 2. For some it is an obstacle, for food photographers - good, but I did not like it. But there are inexpensive lenses, although they are normal - all the same, they are like a fujik.

              And at the fujik. I like the colors. And the settings of different films - too. And ergonomics. Yes, I often miss the DD of his jeepgs (after the dinghies), but the rav is more than tough and they can always be insured.
              So here you are right.

              If it is off, and there will be normal amounts of money, then it may be worth waiting until the end of the year for the release of X-t2 or x-t20 with a new twenty-megapixel matrix.

              Accumulums are taken simply “a few pieces”. Two accumulators for the D700 are about 4 pieces for the fujik, so the weight is about bash for bash. Only they are scattered in the bag))

              Xt10 is less than ht1, and with such dimensions it is even noticeable, so it makes sense to take one only if you need water resistance from your nose.

              For the price of glasses. Perhaps it's worth investing in a normal top-end zoom once - and all the rules. But on this occasion - ask Elena all the same, she somehow more for the landscapes and the city understands.
              You can search for lenses on the secondary as well, at least as much as possible, but cheaper.
              18/2 right now you can take for 20 on the secondary, 35/2 for 21-25 thousand.
              here, as they say, there are nuances.
              In general, you can take only the autofocus fast 35/2, since it is now very much praised, and the rest can be done by manuals - it is very convenient to work with them on Fuja.

              fifty is not particularly needed

              • Jury

                The double crop of Olympus spoils everything - the pictures in most reviews seem to have been taken from a soap dish. There are very few shots with a shallow depth of field. Apparently, this explains the more affordable price with excellent quality of both cameras and optics. For an amateur reporting, it probably suits, but the volume in the pictures is important to me.

                If I decide to change the system, then I will not wait for the X-T2 / X-T20 or take the X-Pro2 - there will be no money left for the lenses) Most likely, I will consider the X-T10 or X-E2, new or used.

                It is also possible that I will stay on a warm tube D80, and for the proceeds from the sale of the D700 I will buy one or two full-frame lenses. I think this is a more reliable investment than a camera, which is becoming much cheaper. On the one hand, the D80 already seems dull in terms of autofocus, and the ISO is holding my hands, on the other hand I shoot mostly in the afternoon, and for the evening landscapes I will take my own small 20-cm tripod.

                “Normal top zoom” - do you mean 16-55mm f / 2.8?

            • Lynx

              so - go to the store, twirl in your hands, and olik and fujik.
              browse through the viewfinders.
              and on the flick - look at the examples, everything is well understood.
              one thing, but - if you suddenly DO NOT like the frames from the olik and you hear “yes it is for top fixes, but the zooms are not necessary, they don’t give a picture” - forget it.
              And if you like it, then oliks have very tasty colors.

              • Jury

                Yes, I will. As for the Olympus, I think that after a soap dish with a small matrix it would be pleasant, but after the D700 I will not be able to take it seriously.

            • Lynx

              So ... sobsno for the sake of "the city and the people" I bought it.

            • Lynx

              point by point .. and ten and e2 now it is quite easy to take a second-hand in good condition - people merge for the sake of a second proshka.
              top zoom is 16-55 / 2,8 and 10-24 / 4 if you need shirik
              In general, you will have to think about the lenses, but for me it is a “fast for all occasions” zoom or fix (even the very first, a plastic whale, often people come up), and everything else is easy to close with manuals, especially for the first time.

              • Jury

                I just looked at Avito - there are plenty of offers. There is also the X-Pro1, but, as I understand it, today it is much inferior to the X-T10 and X-E2.
                16-55, of course, is cool, but all compactness is killed) I think 18-55mm F2.8-4 + one or two fixes will be preferable in my case. The first is for “taking a walk”, the others are for creativity.
                Manual support is a bold plus bzk - I just have Jupiter-37A, and Jupiter-9, and some kind of Helios.

          • NE

            Nikon's Skintons are yes, a problem ... until you try RPP

            • lynx

              Yes, the colors in C1 calmly stretch, but why this hemorrhoid?

              • NE

                I agree. I corrected the BB in A1M1 and it turned out canon :)

        • Lynx

          In IDEAL, of course, you need to have both FF and Fujik.
          At the same time, fudzhik - you can crumb X70, and FF is better immediately SF. ))
          But keeping two systems is extremely expensive.
          Yes, there are people who hold both 2 and 3 systems.
          Rashap, for example, seems to have a mark3 (or sells it already) for "hacks", SF for normal work and Fuji x100 for Fuji.
          Lena Liseykina (LJ - liseykina), as far as I know, used to shoot all her stunning landscapes on Nikon (six hundred, it seems), then she took fujiki (different models). For a long time she used both Nikon and Fujik alternately, insuring herself with a XNUMX on important shooting. Now - those about Nikon are not heard from her at all.
          Again, if you are not a hipster, and come to custom shooting models with xt10 and 35/2 instead of mark3 and 70-200, then you simply will not understand and will not talk. Unless of course you are such a dude that all customers prostrate themselves at the sight of you and do not have time to see what you are holding there. )))

          • Jury

            It's expensive for me to keep two systems, and I don't really need to. I don’t make money with photography and don’t show off, I don’t care how solid the camera or lens looks. Thank you for the tip to Lena Liseikina - I'll take a look.

            • Lynx

              then Fujik, Olik, Sonya, you can look. But personally, I’m not very Sonya.
              the most “street-walking” systems ”.

              • Jury

                The main task is color at the level of Nikon CCD - I don't want to mess with processing, I want a good JPEG right away. The rest is secondary.

            • Lynx

              well, on my website all the photos taken after January this year - on a fuji camera jeep with different settings. you can orient yourself.

              • Jury

                I've already looked at pictures from fujiks quite a lot - in general, everything is great. So far, it's only difficult to say which one likes best - Nikon CCD or Fujifilm. Eh, it's not easy to choose a camera. This is not a car for you))

            • Lynx

              Let's just say - by color / DD fudzhik loses in some places. Dvuhsotke - rather parity. but d200 has workers up to 400, and fujik has up to 3200 norms.

              • Jury

                What do you think compared to the D80? In my opinion, the D200 gives darker and more natural lights, while the D80 embellishes a little more. This is subjective - I draw conclusions from my own photographs.

            • Lynx

              dash knows to be honest.
              I will not say which is worse or better. Others are few. All the same, fujik has preset profiles for jipegs - they are based on films - Provo, Velvia, Aster, Kodakhrom, etc.
              And Nikonov ssd on Nikon ssd.

            • Lynx

              https://events.webinar.ru/394295/Fuji0206 there is a chance that you will have time to watch the Fuji webinar today

              • Jury

                Thank you, but, unfortunately, did not have time (It is a pity that they do not record them.

    • kituchenyj

      It is, in general, for movie cameras, but why not buy it, and then try to add it through the adapter. I don’t know how on the X-T10, but on the X-M1 it can do. It does not fit, then at such a low price, a small loss.

    • Lynx

      Learn to read for a start

      • anonym

        Serious beast lynx, does not understand humor (my answer was to the April Fools post by Yuri)

        • Lynx

          Oh, and the truth is not noticeable that this is in response to comments, and not a new thread.
          Sorry. )))

          • anonym

            Regards, accepted.

  • Crazy lemeng

    Hello. I bought myself this device. And I just can’t figure out how to shoot on it with focus on one object, so that the rest is vague. I tried with an open aperture, but it does not work. had previously dealt with Nikon. This turned out to be not very clear to me.
    I tried a bunch of modes and still. And is it possible to take photos with beautiful bokeh?

    • Valery A.

      Hold on, right now the Lynx will be freed, she will give you. And at what focal point are you trying, not shirik? The matrix is ​​crop, it should be something like with Nikon.

      • Crazy lemeng

        Kit lens 16-50 3/5 - I try it at focal length 30-40 mm. Maybe I'm setting the wrong set of settings. I tried both on the M and S modes, and put A on the shutter speed ring, it's still no use. Tell me which set is best for focusing on a subject with a blurry background?

        • Yarkiy

          To get a blurry background, the recipe is not complicated. The aperture is wider, the focal length is longer, the subject is closer, and the background is farther away. It is possible in mode M, but better in A, and focusing on one point, to begin with on the central point, and with experience, the rest will go.
          The whale lens is certainly not ideal for bokeh, but you can shoot perfectly with it.

          • Crazy lemeng

            Thank you

    • Oleg

      if it is a whale lens then beautiful bokeh is problematic. We need at least 50 \ 1.8 or 85 \ 1.8

      • Crazy lemeng

        Thank you, kind person. And bokeh in general only turns out at fast?

        • Anonymous # 2

          Took popcorn, waiting for Lynx's frantically furious response

        • Oleg

          In general, yes, beautiful bokeh is the lot of fixes or expensive 70-200 / 2.8. You can try the budget 55-250, but not much is wrong. Buy a fast fix depending on your budget. 50mm and aperture 5 is a lot to blur. Now, if 50mm and 2.8- this is another matter. Another nuance is the number of diaphragm petals, preferably 7 and higher, the more the petals, the fewer nuts in the bokeh. You can look in the direction of manual optics: Jupiter-37a, for example, or for the first time buy a penny gelik

          • Crazy lemeng

            That's it, I’m shooting a question about bokeh. Now this: how normal, sorry for my inexperience, remove the sky and clouds in sunny weather. My sky just turns white (I just can’t set it normally, or is it just with a long exposure tripod?

            • Denis

              options 2
              1) gradient filters
              2) HDR photo from 2 frames

              • Crazy lemeng

                I will try to do in HDR, there is a bracketing plug

            • Yarkiy

              Shoot in RAW, take the exposure in the sky, best of all on a beautiful cloud (the metering is naturally spotted), at the same time, focusing to infinity will go away. Re-arrange the frame with the half-pressed shutter button and squeeze, making the frame. Naturally, the earth will be in the dark, dark, but when developing, information from the shadows is easier to stretch than from the overexposure.

              • Crazy lemeng

                I can’t do it in RSF (a small battery and a flash drive

            • zengarden

              Your sky is overexposed, and judging by the shadows, the sun is somewhere ahead to the left; in which case what kind of clouds? one haze ... If the focus is on a dark object, then on a light background (sky) all the details will be eaten. You can (and should) play with the light / shadow settings, exposure metering modes; as mentioned above, you can focus on the cloud, but this is not the best option - the camera can start fooling; but it is better to fix the exposure on it. Well, the exposure compensation wheel, yes.
              The camera has a wide dynamic range, but requires thoughtful settings.

              Above, Comrade Trekhsotkovich described "his" regimes; and here is the link to the original (only for X-T1): http://vk.com/topic-23327078_29633121?post=7310
              You do not need to blindly copy the settings, but to understand what and what affects it - you have to figure it out, this will greatly facilitate the work in the future.

              Photo with whale 16-50, the sun, clouds

        • zengarden

          You can with this whale. How exactly, Comrade Yarkiy explained.
          In general, the concept of a “beautiful boke” is too subjective.
          If aperture optics is of interest, then the easiest one to try is to put any manual fifty dollars (some Soviet Helios) through an adapter; moreover, the camera has convenient tools for focusing (magnification, focus picking, pseudo-range finder).

          • zengarden

            Kit 16-50, aperture 5.6, why not a boke? :)

            • Valery A.

              For the portrait of a snail, excellent bokeh (which greatly depends on the focusing distance), but you will not shoot people with 30 cm.

              • Denis

                but you can sew a portrait, like a landscape from fragments ...

              • zengarden

                This is an illustration of the remarks above that the type and degree of blur depends heavily on the distance to the subject and the background. In general, there are visual calculator programs (even links were laid out here), where you can specify the shooting parameters and see how the photo will look approximately.

                And this is the X-T10 + Konica Hexanon AR 40mm f1.8, to the object about half a meter, the background is somewhere a little more than a meter

    • Lynx

      Buy yourself a fujifilm 56 / 1,2 and you will have super bokeh. Or 90/2

  • Dmitriy

    Here, I got rid of the 40D, which was bought for a long time, but as a home camera I did not take root. Used for business, but not as everyday.
    So I decided to take the X-T10. You just need to decide with the optics. I think to be the first to take 18-55, incl. I used such a staff on a forty. Or 35/2, but I do not think that it will be possible only for them ... What will anyone say?

    • zengarden

      If we take the "whale" option (camera + lens), then the difference between 16-50 / 3.5.-5.6 and 18-55 / 2.8-4 will be ~ 18 thousand rubles. There is, of course, a difference between XC and XF lenses; but how critical is it?
      Perhaps, for the first time, a whale with a zoom of 16-50 + will be optimal for inexpensive manual fixes through an adapter. And then already figure out what exactly you need from the fixes, save up money and buy.
      PS. X-T10 complete with fixes on sale did not see.
      PPS The option of a whale with a zoom is much cheaper than a carcass + lenses separately.
      In general, you can buy an X-T64 + 10-16 + 50-50 kit (a dark but high-quality telezoom) for ~ 230 thousand rubles.

  • Dmitriy

    Well, at prices - a carcass and 18-55 separately cost 36-40t.r. and 25-28 tr. Whale 62-65 tr.
    I missed 18-55 from a friend for 22 tr, gave a new one. The secondary market for a relatively new camera is still weak ...
    A whale with dark zooms saw, yes, profitable, but they are dark. In me, on Canon, all the 2.8 optics were, that zooms, that fixes ...

  • Dmitry

    At one time they criticized the Nikon sb-400, and now advertise its analogue.

  • Alexey

    Let me ask you a question.

    I am faced with a choice, this camera really liked both the reviews and the functionality! But like everywhere but. Explain a number of questions please:
    1. Stability in carcass or optics?
    2. Can the bulb mode be extended for more than 60 minutes?
    3. So, native optics are very expensive, if you take a new one, are there any analogues from third-party manufacturers but cheaper and with a stub?
    4. Optics adapters from canon and Nikon are stabilization and autofocus supported?

    Thank you, really looking forward to hearing.

  • Andrei

    I have had a camera for six months now, I can say the minuses and pros with regards to the device itself and optics.
    I like very much: weight of the device, autofocus accuracy, sharpness.
    Like: the pullability of RAV.
    I do not like it: freezing, gluttony on power or weak batteries, autofocus in poor lighting, the need for good developer performance, the position and mobility of the controls.

    • zengarden

      Batteries need to immediately buy a couple of spare ones.
      For me, the main disadvantage of the camera (and the system as a whole) is the lack of a stabilizer on the matrix, like the Olympus, for example. Shooting handheld to manual optics, especially long-focus ones (large heavy lenses) is not fun at all: the slightest stir turns into soap :(

      • Andrei

        I get that 1 battery for 1 ... 2 hours, depending on the activity of shooting. In comparison with the Canon 70D which I have, for my shooting rhythm there is enough one battery for 4 ... 6 hours and never discharged more than two per shooting day.
        Regarding the stabilizer, it is certainly bad that it is not on the matrix, but there is an excellent stabilizer in the optics. I didn't plan to use manuals at Fuji, only my own lenses, so this cup passed me.

  • Valery Demyanov

    Who wants to plunge into the beautiful world of fuji, he has a great opportunity to exchange his nikon df for my chic branded kit, consisting of fuji xe2 with a grip handle, with the latest firmware like xe2s, fujinon 35 1,4 glass; 18 2,0; 60 2,4; and all sorts of goodies (batteries, adapters, etc.) are included. Everything is in perfect condition, the carcass is under warranty, which is what I wish you. I want everything!

  • Max

    He switched to the X-T10 from the canon 5dm2. I do not regret about anything. AF is better, and it works, unlike canon. Canon simply doesn't have DD, I can write a lot about DD Fuji. Files are pulled in all directions without loss of quality and noise. Sharpness and clarity are super, soap glasses from Canon can not even dream of such a thing.
    Who shouts that fuji is a threshing floor, they just did not shoot them. not FF, so what? X-T1 (10) will calmly give odds to the third brand in terms of picture quality. There are proofs, not empty words. You just don’t have to compare Fuji with 16-50 and Mark 3 with 85 1.2 ... Put 56 1.2 on Fuji and your Mark will get on your ass. Well, tell me those tasks with which Fuji will not cope.

    I use purely in commercial photography, beat / fashion shooting, studio. I have not tried it in the report yet. Everything is gorgeous on the street, but I'm waiting for the summer for more complete tests.
    The quality of the glasses in Fuji is gorgeous. And they basically have all the top-end glasses. There are no bad ones.

    • Oleg

      And where are the proofs?

    • Denis

      The engine was at death - flooded Suprotek.

      On the first day, the knee and expansion joints stopped knocking, on the second - burnt valves and worn rings flew out of the exhaust pipe - new ones grew instead.

      The engine stopped eating oil, it worked like new!

      On the third day, fuel consumption decreased, on the fifth - consumption decreased to zero, after a week - the engine began to produce fuel itself!

      On the tenth day, rot disappeared from the body, a dent in the roof cleared, a crack appeared on the windshield, lights were polished, a new right mirror grew, a condo appeared in the car, and the seats were covered with leather.

      My sleep, appetite and potency improved, I lost 10 kg, at work I increased my salary by 4 times, my wife herself brought a young lover.

      Thank you Suprotek!

  • Igor

    Maybe about the volume this is purely your far-fetched opinion and biased attitude in double-crop?

  • Igor

    And I don’t understand if you are kzhe, as the user Fuja S 5 does not see the difference in the shade color of modern fujas?

  • Pentaxis

    There were almost all Nikon DSLRs from D200-300-700-700-7100-800-XNUMX
    Eight hundred in service.
    Lord, what kind of flour is it to muddle in Photoshop his ravas, 4 hours of reporting and until the morning of processing.
    There is X-T10 and it is planned to upgrade to X-T2.
    The X-T10 has a strong minus for me, this is the size, I am for any diminutiveness within the bounds of decency, here it is treated only with "crutches".
    In all other respects, this is a long-forgotten pleasure to receive photos from a camera and not a computer, of course it cannot be compared with the “warm sound of a tube” ugh ..., with a wet process, but there is something akin to it.

  • Dmitriy

    Now the X-T1 carcass has fallen in price, of course. They are with the Pentax K-3 at about the same price.
    I am looking for a device for amateur landscape photography, and I really like these two applicants for the picture. In Fuji, of course, you can “make a leap” and take it with a 35 / 1,4 or slightly shorter lens. But if I want to "get out" beyond the landscape, then invest and invest in my native Fujinons ... And looking at Pentax, I understand that, in the future, I can afford much more from his native optics. Let it not be "limited", but in the non-autofocus versions (-M, -A) there were quite good lenses that will work fully on the K-3 carcass. In general, “scratching my turnips” ...

  • NE

    About Flash and Investment Protection: Nissin recently released the Nissin Commander Air 1 Fujifilm Radio Transmitter. This is a “cross-platform” TTL controller with support for fast sync (+ for nikon rear curtain sync). Provided that the Nissin Air R receiver is used, Nikon, Canon, Nissin system flashes can be used. The Nissin di-700a already has a built-in Air R receiver. Moreover, using the controller, you can simultaneously control flashes from different systems. I have such a kit for Nikon - I bought it about 3 months ago and I actively use it. So far there are no complaints. The price tag for the transmitter + receiver is ~ 10 tr., Three times cheaper than Phottix or PocketWizard ...

  • anonym

    For the soul and design it is better to take Nikon DF.

    • Michael

      Look at wide-angle lenses from 10-12 mm

  • Sky

    If you answer the main question of the life of the universe and in general, then this is not 42, but M42 :)

  • Michael

    Good afternoon. I can write a review on x-e1, x-t1 and 27mm 2.8. Will you be interested in this?

    • Michael

      Better write to the mail - not always the comments are read

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, it will be interesting, do it.

    • Gregor

      Michael, where are the reviews? Everyone is waiting)

  • Gregor

    Prompt please,
    when using the zoom (by pressing the rear wheel) before taking a picture,
    Does the camera return to non-zoom mode first or take a picture right away?
    Thank you

    The younger models are made quite inconveniently - first return to the mode without magnification, then the picture.
    Maybe someone already mentioned, did not find

    • Oleg

      YES, on the X-T10 everything is exactly as you described: “first return to no magnification mode, then take a picture”.

      • Gregor

        Thank you!

  • juris

    I had a cht-10 ... on the matrix under the HAIR filter !!! ... do not blow the mine with a pear !!!

    • Trueash

      Exactly. The sensor is somehow covered, if debris gets on it, nothing terrible will happen, and if you drive the smallest grain of sand onto the shutter lamellae ... minus a lot of money

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