According provided by lens NIKON ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical many thanks to Alexander Dundanov.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
Nikon has had a five-year hiatus in superzoom lenses for full frame cameras. The last model, before Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical from this review, was not very successful Nikon ED AF Nikkor 28-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6G IF Aspherical, which was produced for only two years, from 2003 to 2005. And so, in August 2010, Nikon introduced the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G lens, which became the record holder - it has the largest zoom ratio among all lenses for full-frame cameras in the series Nikon FX. The zoom ratio is as much as 10.71 X!
For reference: Canon released its monster-like CANON ZOOM LENS EF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6L IS USM ULTRASONIC (with the same tenfold zoom) back in the summer of 2004. But Tamron managed to introduce his first AF 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 LD Aspherical IF MACRO 185D back in 1999!
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
Main technical characteristics of Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical 52070705 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 77 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 28-300 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 42-450 mm (!) |
| Zoom ratio | 10.71 x |
| Designed by | for Nikon FX full-frame digital cameras |
| Number of aperture blades | 9 pieces |
| Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 28, 35, 50, 70, 105, 200 and 300 mm, bayonet mount tag and lens hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | from F/3.5@28mm to F / 22 @ 28mm and from F/5.6@300mm to F / 36 @ 30mm (on official website indicatedthat the aperture closes to F / 38 @ 300mm, but when checking on cameras Nikon D80, D700 install F / 38 was impossible) |
| MDF | 0.5 m, maximal magnification factor 1: 3.1 |
| The weight | 800 g |
| Optical design | 19 elements in 14 groups, 3 aspherical elements (aspherical elements are shown in blue in the optical diagram) and 2 ED elements (in yellow in the optical diagram). The image is clickable.
|
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-50 |
| Manufacturer country | MADE IN THAILAND |
| Period | From August 2010 to the present day (at least until 2017) |
| Cost: |
Although Nikon waited a long time for the release of such a lens, it did it - it did it. Excluding minor flaws, the lens is pretty good.
Assembly
Production of Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G established in Thailand. To the touch it is pleasant and weighty, its weight is as much as 800 grams, and it surprises me who needs such a heavy lens with such a low aperture... The Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G uses large professional 77mm filters (superzoom has to be big!).
The focusing ring is plastic, and the zoom ring is rubberized. Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G has metal bayonet. The retractable lens trunk has two sections. The first (the one closer to the bayonet) is plastic, the second is metal. The sections are strong enough to the touch, without any backlashes.
There is a bayonet mount mark on the body and a mark for quick installation of the hood. The lens uses a plastic hood HB-50, which is fixed in special grooves located near the front lens of the lens. The hood can be installed in the opposite direction for transportation. In this position, access to the zoom ring is practically not lost. Typically Nikon Nikkor zoom lenses have focus and zoom rings in reverse order - the zoom ring is closer to the mount and the focus ring is closer to the front lens.
The Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G comes with a soft case CL-1120, and the lens itself comes in a small cardboard box with a characteristic Nikon coloring.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
'LOCK 28' button
Frame (trunk) for Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G spontaneously changes its size under its own weight (perhaps this only begins with time). For example, when the camera is tilted down, the lens trunk lengthens spontaneously (the focal length increases). To prevent such an unpleasant nuance from happening, there is a 'LOCK 28' (the so-called 'lock') focal length lock button on the lens barrel, which firmly locks the focal length at 28 mm.
To fix the trunk of the lens, you must first set the 28 mm focal length.
The button is conveniently located under the thumb of the left hand, so the lens can be quickly and comfortably removed from the lock before shooting.
Also, note that while changing the focal length, the rear lens moves in the middle of the lens body like a pump - it draws in and pushes out air. This behavior of the rear lens is called 'effect' of a vacuum cleaner, which can increase the amount of dust that accumulates in the camera.
The effect of the vacuum cleaner on the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G is quite noticeable. At first, I even wanted to shoot a video where Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G could blow soap bubbles using this effect, but, unfortunately (or fortunately), the lens could not blow soap bubbles) :.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
Diaphragm
Diaphragm the lens consists of 9 rounded petalswhich form a fairly even hole. It's nice that Nikon did not stint on nine petals. Aperture range is available from F / 3.5-5.6 to F / 22-F / 36.
There are marks with a focal length on the zoom ring, the following is a list with the minimum numbers F available for these marks:
- 28 mm - F / 3.5
- 35 mm - F / 4.0
- 50 mm - F / 4.5
- 70 mm - F / 5.0
- 105 mm - F / 5.3
- 200 mm - F / 5.6
- 300 mm - F / 5.6
It would be much better if aperture fell more linearly with increasing focal length from 28 to 300 mm. Apparently she was sacrificed for a large zoom ratio.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical lens mode switches
Stabilizer
The Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G has a VR stabilizer (actually VR II - the second generation), which, according to the instructions, can compensate 3 stops by shutter speed (sometimes they write 'up to 4 stops'). In values excerpts this means you can shoot at shutter speeds 8 times slower than a lens without a stabilizer would require. But you just need to remember that the stabilizer is not a panacea, it can only sometimes help to achieve a sharp shot.
В Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G lens instructions 3 stops are indicated (measurements by Nikon), and on the official website 3.5 feet (measured by CIPA). In any case, the stabilizer works well.
To turn on / off the stabilizer on the lens there is a button 'VR ON / OFF'. The stabilizer can operate in two modes: 'Normal' and 'Active'.
'Normal' mode designed for most scenes and avoids movement when camera shake. Theoretically, the 'Normal' mode can still track the movement of the camera to create panoramas.
Active Mode most suitable for shooting when the camera can not only shake, but also move in different directions. Most often, it is advised to use this mode when shooting in motion.
When working with the lens, I noticed that the stabilizer works much better in the 'Active' position, which is why I recommend leaving it in this position. The gimbal itself works well. I was able to take pictures without blur and great effort at 300 mm focal length and 1/40 second (example).
Designations on the lens housing Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
Focusing
Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G focuses quite quietly thanks to 'SWM'-motor (Silent Wbird Motor - quiet wave motor) and refers to the lens'AF S'type (with built-in motor focusing), and therefore it will automatically focus on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Auto focus speed is average, but sufficient for most tasks. On my cameras Nikon D80, D700 lack of tenacity of focus, especially in the range of 100-300 mm focal length. In this range, the lens often loses the subject and re-focuses. This is most likely due to low aperture lens, since F / 5.6 is the limit for focus sensors my cameras. With other cameras, the lens may behave differently.
During focusing, the front and rear lenses remain stationary, as the lens uses internal focusthat is indicated on the case by the letters'IF'-'Iinternal Focus' - 'Inner Focus'. The front lens does not rotate while zooming. It is possible to use any filters without problems.
The minimum focusing distance is only 50 cm, while you can shoot Macro with 1: 3.1 magnification (i.e., the subject will be projected onto the camera’s matrix very large). This is a very good magnification factor for this kind of lens. The lens hood does not interfere with work when shooting small items. Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G has a window with a scale of distances in meters and feet. IPIG scale no.
Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G suffers greatly from the 'Focus Breathing' effect - changing the angle of view while focusing. At a 300 mm focal length, when focusing towards the MDF, the angle of view expands, and on the MDF it becomes equal to the angle of view of a lens with an effective focal length of about 150 mm.
On the lens housing you can find focus switch 'M / A - M'. In the 'M / A' position, auto focus works with constant manual focus priority. The 'M / A' mode is very convenient and useful - for manual focusing or focus correction, you do not need to additionally switch the lens to the 'M' mode.
Nuance: at work, I noticed one little thing that does not affect the work with the lens very well. The bottom line is this - to slightly shift the focus ring, you need to 'tear it off'. At the same time, smooth focusing is lost, since after such a “jerk” the ring flies over the desired value. The effort is not so big, but such a “slightly twitchy” method of focusing is very annoying during manual focusing. There is a similar effect on many other lenses, most pronounced on Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical... And even worse - the focus ring has small lag, which is most pronounced when the rotation starts in the opposite direction. During automatic focusing, these drawbacks do not appear, but during manual focusing, they are very unnerving.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical with hood
Compatibility and Features
Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G is designed primarily for Nikon FX full-frame cameras, but no one forbids its use on Nikon DX cameras, where it EGF is 42-450 mm. We can say that Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G is a full-frame analogue of cropped Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical.
Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G will work without problems on any Nikon digital SLR camera.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical with hood
Image quality
Surprisingly, as for a superzoom, Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G shows very good image quality. First of all, good sharpness in the center of the frame at any focal length is surprising. The lens is resistant to flare, it is rather difficult to catch glare, but it is possible. Like most 'dark' zoom lenses, the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G has good contrast.
Among the shortcomings, I would single out the usual problems for this kind of lenses - strong distortion, especially at 28 mm and chromatic aberration, as well as low sharpness at the edges of the frame. Modern cameras can automatically correct distortion and HA... The Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G drawing (if it can be called a drawing) fully corresponds to that of a dark super-zoom. If we ignore a trifle, the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G produces not excellent, but good picture.
You can download RAW source files at this link (77 files in the .'NEF 'format, 1 GB). All photos were shot using protective filter Kenko UV 77mm JAPAN (part of the highlights in the photo from this filter). Photos in previews with Nikon D80 - on-camera JPEG, with Nikon D700 - developed RAW.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical rams and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM
My experience
I used the lens for about a week, even took it to a wedding, where I tried to shoot a report with it. As a result, it turned out that for reporting shooting he lacks neither speed nor tenacity of focus.
After Tamron AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 [IF] Macro A20 Aspherical LD XR DI VC Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G seems to be just a fairy tale. But still, the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G is too heavy to be a versatile everyday lens. It’s better to have a lighter and more compact whale. Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED VR SWM IF Asphericalthan to rush with this monster.
It is often said that the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G can be an excellent lens for traveling, but it seems to me that few amateur photographers like to constantly carry a heavy full-frame camera with them, and even an almost kilogram lens.
For almost the same price of one Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G, you can take a good Nikon 70-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G ED AF-S VR along with good Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical. Of course, for those who are crazy about superzoom, the Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G will be sweeter than any other alternatives.
The offer to use Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G constantly, I personally do not cause much enthusiasm. I would not buy such a super-zoom as a station wagon for every day.
Front lenses of Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical lenses and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM (right)
Prices
Current prices for NIKON ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical can look at this linkor in the price block:
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
List of all autofocus hyper-zooms 28-300 mm
Tamron / Promaster
- Tamron AF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LD Aspherical [IF] MACRO model A185D
- Tamron AF 28-300mm 1: 3.8-6.3 LD Aspherical [IF] MACRO model A285D, The optical design is identical to the Tamron A185D.
- Tamron AF Aspherical XR LD [IF] 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro model A06
- Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD [IF] 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro model A061, The optical design is identical to the Tamron A06.
- Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD [IF] 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 VC Macro model A20. With stabilizer.
- Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VCModel A010. With stabilizer.
- Promaster Spectrum 7XR AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro, copy of Tamron A06
- Promaster Spectrum 7XR EDO AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 Macro, copy of the model Tamron A061
Sigma / quantaray
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DL HYPERZOOM (black or silver color of the case), ø72
- Sigma COMPACT HYPERZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3, ø67
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 MACROø62
- SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DG MACROø62
- Quantaray 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated, ø72, copy of SIGMA ZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 DL HYPERZOOM
- Quantaray 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3 LDO Multi-Coated, ø67, copy of Sigma COMPACT HYPERZOOM 28-300mm 1: 3.5-6.3
Tokina / others
- Tokina AF 28-300mm 1: 4.0-6.3 ø77 JAPAN (black or silver color of the case), model Tokina 283 AF
- Vivitar Series 1 28-300mm 1: 4.0-6.3 MC Auto Focus Zoom JAPAN ø77 (black or silver color), copy of Tokina 283 AF
- Cosina 28-300 mm 1: 4.0-6.3 MC lens mde in Japan ø77 (black or silver color), copy of Tokina 283 AF
- PHOENIX 28-300mm 1: 4.0-6.3 AF ZOOM ø77 MADE IN JAPAN (black or silver case color), copy of Tokina 283 AF
- EXAKTA 28-300mm 1: 4.0-6.3 MC MADE IN JAPAN ø77 (black or silver body color), copy of Tokina 283 AF
- Promaster Spectrum 7 28-300mm 1: 4.0-6.3 MC LENS MADE IN JAPAN ø77 (black or silver body color), a copy of Tokina 283 AF. There may be other copies of the Tokina 283 AF.
Nikon & Canon
- Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical, with a stabilizer.
- Canon ZOOM LENS EF 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6 L IS USM, with a stabilizer.
The names of the lenses are indicated according to the inscriptions on their body. Do you know similar lenses or any useful information on them - please add it to the comments. To this list, I would also add a similar lens with 10x zoom for Sony full-frame mirrorless cameras - Sony FE 3.5-6.3 / 24-240mm OSS.
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
List of all Nikon FX 28-XXX autofocus lenses:
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 2.8D AF-S Nikkor ED SWM (black / white)
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 3.5-4.5D AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.3-5.6G AF Nikkor (MKIII, black / silver)
- Nikon 28-85 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-85 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-100 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G AF Nikkor (black / silver)
- Nikon 28-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5D AF Nikkor (Japan / China)
- Nikon 28-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (Japan / China, Black / Silver)
- Nikon 28-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED IF Aspherical AF Nikkor (Japan / Thailand)
- Nikon 28-300 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G AF-S Nikkor ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
The catalog of modern universal lenses for Nikon can be see here.
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Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical
Results
Nikon ED AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm 1: 3.5-5.6G SWM VR IF Aspherical is a large and heavy super zoom for full frame cameras. Sharpness, contrast, stabilizer, macro photography and assembly are good news. Weight and price upset. Theoretically, such a lens can replace a huge optics park. But this is only theoretically, anyway, but from Nikon 28-300 / 3.5-5.6G it will not be possible to achieve a large aperture, which is inherent in other lenses.
UPDATE: On February 6, 2014, a good lens like this was presented - Tamron PZD Di 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 Piezo Drive VC Model A010.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
good travel zoom. after all, for example, on an excursion there is no time to snap lenses. But the photos from him, though sharp in quality, are very far from ideal in art
That's exactly because of the quality of the picture, it is not suitable for those who travel for a beautiful picture.
Changing 2-3 lenses is not so difficult if the equipment is convenient. Backpack unloading.
But for most, not for perfectionists - very good glass. It's good in sunny weather.
those who travel “for the sake of a beautiful picture” may not be suitable. But for those who are just going to have a rest and make a couple of hundred shots in social media - that's it :)
Personally, I take Nikon 24-28 bp (full-frame whale) on vacation and it suits me too. But when "the soul of the bazhak is holy" - then Karl-Zeiss has to get
So I thought so, exactly until the moment when I climbed the Red Dunes in Namibia (+ 40 in the shadow, which is not), from 24-70 2.8 tamron with a stub, nikon 16-35 4 and nikon 70-200 4. A friends walked nearby, and the young lady walked from 28-300 ... It so happened that I processed all the photos. What can I say, the second time I will not drag three glasses. 20 1.8 + 28-300 Forever, After that trip 28-300 settled on the shelf and very often gets from there. a combination of 20s, 28-300, and 85 1.8 for a portrait. For today, with my ts, the best combination for carrying in backpacks.
And to shoot a wedding 28-300 ... it's some kind of masochism. Although it's not for me to judge, I'm not a pro, I don't make money with photos.
Arkady, you said that it is better to have a Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical, how much 24-85 is better on similar focal points in terms of quality?
I remember a few years ago I was running by nature with a super zoom of 18-300, also more than 800 grams, then I started looking for options for hanging the camera off the neck. As a result, he refused superzoom.
well, yes, it is much more reasonable to carry a bag with two or three lenses of 600 grams at once, than to carry one superzoom of 800 grams ...
yep
Yeah, not yeah, but on the neck and on the back, this is a big difference
A good lens, I'll wait for the same with the constant f1.4 to come out. )))
With micro anti-gravity :)
An anti-gravitator is not needed, I can pump my hand under this lens, and the macro mode is useful.
Nope, better to wait 0.7. It's me about chekusheku (alcohol).
Soap dish-superzum is in every way better, but dark, and with distortion.
Well, this lens also has some of these drawbacks.
And I had a desire to test the soap box in the MDF macro only 5cm, there are pluses in the small matrix. Not a big deviation from the topic
I have a Canon S3 IS ultrazoom - it can focus on the front surface of the lens glass, i.e. if the insect sits directly on the lens, it will focus on it.
it is obvious that Nikon 24-85 mm f3,5-4,5 will be better than Nikon 28-300 ... especially at the long end ... its multiplicity is too high, more than 10 .... but in the era of film photography, the magnification was 2,5 or 3, and much less often 3,5 .... I have Nikon 24-85 mm f 3,5-4,5 .... at the far end, if the aperture is clamped to 6,3 or 7,1, the sharpness is quite good ... and I have a Tamron 70-300 mm f 4-5,6 multiplicity over 4 ... and so - on the long end, even when clamping the diaphragm to 7,1 , 8 or 100 sharpness is still worse when focusing at infinity than when focusing at 200 - 10 mm ... when focusing within 300 m, the sharpness is quite good even at a focal point of XNUMX mm .... my advice - do not chase superzums…. better to have two for the same money ... but with good quality ... but the author of the site writes about the same ....
Ehh…. Put it on a crop….
Eh, if only it were him, I would be the enemy! ... (Dracula is bored).
There is such a handsome man! Despite the fact that it is "dark", I like to take it with me to night concerts :) It works well. As for a lens of this class, it has excellent characteristics.
And I recommend it as a touring wagon. Yes, weighty, but not to the point where it is critical (naturally speaking for myself).
A couple more
I have 70-300 telephoto, even darker than yours. How is he at night concerts? Thanks.
I can not say anything about your TV set. But the 28-300 behaves pretty well. When using it, there were no annoying moments or obvious flaws that spoiled or did not give a good result.
As you can see from my photos, I photograph quite dynamic night concerts and at the same time, I do not experience discomfort when using this lens.
+
++
And one more nakin. I won’t spam anymore :)
Filmed 28-300, one big banquet, there were a lot of guards,
the TV set helped out, as the matter went not into the official sphere, changed to fix =)
The lens that I recommend to have
Such glasses have the right to life. And not only in the hands of a person who previously had only a soap dish, but also in advanced amateurs. I had several superzums and now I still sometimes have to use one of them - Tamron 18-270vs. And having touched the canon 28-300 I almost bought it, stopped the bust with the price for a dark superzoom (offered for 89, it would have been for 75 or even cheaper ...) and excessive weight for a station wagon. It should be noted that reports are often filmed with such a superzoom - you can find the Canon 28-300 in the hands of photographers at the Oscars and in Cannes, filming presidents and pop stars. The advantages of superzoom are obvious - no need to change the glass. When there is an opportunity to take several carcasses or there will certainly be time to change glasses, then yes, it is better to take a couple of lenses with a smaller focal spread. But if in the conditions of the task there is one glass, one carcass and the need to shoot both far and near - a superzoom is a great thing. That is why I am not throwing away the superzoom, and, on the contrary, even thinking about buying a Tamron 16-300 or Nikon 18-300:
1) If you are not a stubborn lover of sharpness like a ninja master’s katana, looking at each blade of grass under magnification or not going crazy over the circles of bokeh, their smoothness, oiliness and curl, superzones give a quite acceptable picture. At the same aperture and focal length, you can determine where the photo is on the super zoom, and where on the fixed from 1.4 you can only look at the picture in detail. Well, at 150-300mm it’s quite possible to make some bokeh.
2) Superzoom is still more convenient. If you need to shoot a concert where fireworks will be shown at the same time, planes will fly and groups will play on stage (such as Invasion), then superzoom will help you out. You can shoot a general scene frame with lights and sparks at 1-2mm within 18-28 seconds and a 300mm shot with a musician making faces :) Even with two carcasses on his neck he can’t manage so quickly.
3) Well, on the plane, when every 100 grams counts, excess glass often interfere. If you fly south, on a beach holiday in sunny countries, then you may not feel the lack of aperture with super zoom. In extreme cases, you can take some small fix if you want boke and sharpness in a foreign land.
+100! for traveling to hot countries and just traveling with a single lens - just the right thing. and the nd filter is not needed :)
I agree completely!
I have been using this lens for 8 months. Satisfied.
Thanks for the review!
about the effect of a vacuum cleaner and inflating soap balls - a recipe.
1. take 28-300, nikon d700, soap solution.
2. unscrew the d700 eyecup on the viewfinder
3. put 28-300 per carcass.
4. try to sharply change the focal length (trunk)
5. make sure that the wind blows from the opened slots of the viewfinder.
6.Drip soapy water - and voila)))))))) BUBBLES)))
1.I would not say that this is a heavy lens after dragging such heavyweights as nikkor 24-70 2,8G or 70-200 2.8G VR2. 28-300 is just a fluff after these.
2. huge disadvantages - yes, a trunk and a vacuum cleaner (I bogged down a matrix on d700 b d7000 in the trash).
3. UNDISPUTABLE ADVANTAGE over a similar canon 28-300: - price, nikkor 28-300 you can buy 3-4 pieces (almost a bag :-)))), and also weight - canon weighs…. and his zoom is not circular, but full akhtung - TRAMBON !!! and it's at 21! century!
so for such pennies - Nikon released a very good lens for price / quality / weight / versatility ...
Well, I've been using this for the third year on long business trips - only the zoom ring and the backlash of the bayonet have fallen off, due to which the connection with the camera is lost (
I have a ram 80-200 2.8 and I think that the scheme is very convenient - I sat down, put my hand on my knee, grabbed the lens and lightly move, framing, rotating the ring on a heavy bundle is all the more inconvenient
The zoom ring is needed in order to be able to zoom very quickly after jumping back and forth around the entire field / parquet / ice rink, an object.
I twist this ring with one finger - I don't have time with two.
With a trombone, such a number will not work.
Peter is right, of course.
I will also add: it seems to me that it is difficult to “quickly” catch the desired focus on the ram. My pair moved two steps away from me (and after 3 seconds it will return, or go even further), I need to change the FR, for example, from 100 to 150mm. On the “classic” zoom, this is simply solved by the angle of rotation, but on the trombone you will have to catch millimeters. A couple of times I held 80-200 in my hands, as for me - this is not for operational shooting.
In purely technical parameters (sharpness, contrast, color) the lens is very good. For a reportage should be the same. And what about the weight - this is a normal weight, because 28-70 (2,8) and 80-200 (2,8) together are much heavier, plus a second carcass is needed if we are talking about really operational shooting. The only 3 aspherical elements - should grow cloudy in less than 3 years, and then thrown out. But now everyone is doing this, otherwise there will be no profit from the sale of new optics.
why should this glass become cloudy? however, budget lenses have aspherical elements made of plastic, but they are not very cloudy.
I have a tamron 10-24 in it, three hybrid aspherical lenses in 4 years did not cloud.
and in Sigma 30 \ 1,4 there is one aspherical. For 3 years has not dimmed.
That there does not grow turbid! What are you listening to))) Apparently another myth (cockroach) is born))) This is something new)
I have a cheap soap dish 20 years ago. The plastic lens is transparent as a tear))
You're wrong, vizier ...
many praise this lens! but not very successful 28-200G praises Ken Rockwell very much, it seems he even included him in the list of the best. in the review of paint with D80, the 700s turned out to be much nicer.
and in Canon 85 \ 1.8 is. I’ve got a dinosaur bought from my hands.
Normal flight -)
Unfortunately, I forgot about him, it is necessary to uncover on the weekend.
D80 is a bomb! A lens for an amateur. If the 85 were to be driven on the D80, and not this zoom, then you can see the real quality! And it seems to me that zoom is for those who do not care about quality. A real photo gourmet will shoot Toko on the SSD with fixes. Well, the zooms can be said simply: And you, friends, do not sit down - all are not suitable for lenses!
and I asked in a review of 105 dc to shoot Fujik, but no))))
Read at your leisure;) I highly recommend :) http://lurkmore.to/%D0%A5%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%B8%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%80/%D0%A1%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%81%D0%BE%D0%BA_%D1%85%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%B8%D0%B2%D0%B0%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B2#.D0.A4.D0.BE.D1.82.D0.BE.D0.B3.D1.80.D0.B0.D1.84.D0.B8.D1.8F
Follow the link to the "Photography" section, I think it will be useful for you to read :)
Zooms are not needed! … When there are FIXES!
More delirious than delirium, only delusional delirium ...
Insanity grew stronger ...
Fixes are not needed when there are zooms.
You can make any fix from the zoom at any time, but you can never make a fix from the zoom
A de photo of the camera on the canon Nikon N8008s ??? House of Peace and Vagiv Resentment!
Guys, I'm sorry, someone did not use the Nikon AF-S VR II Micro-Nikkor 105mm f / 2.8G IF-ED and how it behaves in portrait photographs! Thank you so much for the advice!
He behaves remarkably in any photographs.
thanks! but not very sharp?
The quality of the picture with the swimming dog was most liked. Experience, or other technique?
Nice glass. I shoot him spider beetles, animals and portraits. The sharpness is excellent, the picture is also good. The only minus of the problems with focusing on infinity, i.e. when shooting growth portraits can miss. This is a problem for almost all macro lenses.
An excellent macro, portraits can certainly be taken, but I like the picture with 85 / 1,4 more especially in non-studio conditions, and with a lack of light.
What can I say, portraiture is a portraiture. The cannon of course under the macro is imprisoned in the best way. Here is an example.
And here's another.
With such a lens, the main thing is to develop the right grip. Then there will be no movement at 200mm, and the photo will be res like a blade. That's something like that you need to keep it.
It’s just not necessary to keep like that.
Grip the lens with the left hand from below (palm facing up) - the most reasonable grip for heavy / long lenses
Judging by the grip of the camera, the girl never used this technique.
The lens is taken with a grip from below (palm looks up), the forearm should rest against the chest, and the view should be directed against the forehead. In this situation, the most rigid stance will be.
In this photo, just to grip and look…. )))
Friends. I just invented a softbox for a penny and I want to share this crazy idea with the whole world, and especially with friends from Radozhiva. Take a simple white balloon, inflate, and glue two pieces of adhesive tape to the flash. Hurrah. The softbox is ready. The more you blow the ball, the more it will be, and the softer and more diffused the light will be. You can still find large balls for sale, then you can make a softbox with a diameter of about a meter, and use it for growth portraits. For now, I use the usual ball 30 cm in diameter, I use it mainly for the subject. The advantages of such a softbox, unlike an umbrella, are that the folded umbrella is not compact, and the inflatable balloon in a deflated form is even placed in your pocket, and you can always take it with you. Peace for everyone! I would be glad if someone needs my discovery. And I would like Arkady to write an entire article about experiments with such a home-made softbox, test it under different conditions, the opinion of professionals is interesting about how this idea is interesting and useful.
It's nice that science does not stand still.
:)
Kulibin, blah! patent soon)))) take into service
Why Dim? Let people enjoy it.
A photographer is a photographer to a friend, and we will build on this.
It was just such a problem, it was a pleasure to have a small softbox or umbrella for clearance for puff, always at hand, in order to sometimes make a facial or chest portrait with a flash in nature. Having rummaged around Ali Express, I didn’t find anything good, those softboxes that 30 * 30 cm anyway you don’t take anywhere with you, you need a big bag, and 10 * 10 and 15 * 15cm do not give soft light. So the idea came up to inflate the ball to the size you need, you want to blow 15cm, you want 30cm, and if you buy a big ball, you can get a 50cm diameter. And such a diffuser can always be carried with you, and this is important. And if there is still a flash like my Meike MK-320 TTL, then together with such a ball you can fasten it with rubber bands to a tree branch, and you can shoot portraits from any distance by setting the flash on fire. Convenient, compact, cheap.
Great idea, well done!
What can I say ... Clever girl !!!
I will also insert 5 cents. A condom is good too.
But the condom is lubricated ... It's not ethical :)
firstly there are no lubrication.
Secondly, what does ethics have to do with it?
will not do.
there are almost no milky white ones.
Developing the idea - if the balls are not matte enough, you can cram them into one another and inflate, you get a two-layer one. :)
Hello. And you can learn more about your invention. The idea is really brilliant. But what is its execution? The photo shows that the hole through which the balloon is inflated is on the side. That is, the inflated balloon is simply glued to the puff on either side? Did I understand everything correctly? Will there be overheating? Does the lamp in the flash burn out like that? Does the ball not burst? And how much does it quench the leading number? In general, at first glance, it is brilliant! Thanks in advance for your reply.
Here are some photos obtained using such a softbox from a balloon. There are still balloons in the form of a long sausage, they can be adapted as a strip box for uniform illumination of a growth portrait. It would be interesting to make a test with a long ball-sausage, from it you can even twist an annular flash.