According provided by flash Viltrox JY610N i-TTL Speedlite (for Nikon) huge thanks to Nikolai Mad.
Viltrox JY610N i-TTL Speedlite for Nikon Cameras
Viltrox JY610N i-TTL Speedlite - Tiny external flash for Nikon cameras. To be very short - the Viltrox JY610N is a wolf in sheep's clothing.
The flash is light, weighs only 130 grams, looks very similar to Nikon Speedlight SB-400. Viltrox JY610N is powered by two AA batteries, the battery cover is flimsy. In general, the product itself is quite solid to the touch, even the flash leg is metal, and the support foot has rubber seals. The flash head is rotatable in order to rotate it; it must first be pulled out. You can set four viewing angles: zero (straight), 60, 75 and 90 degrees. For flash not specified zoom position. The flash mounts to the camera with a quick snap-lock. After 90 seconds, the flash will enter standby mode until either the button on the flash or the focus / shutter button is pressed.
The leading number when folded is 22 meters. If you expand the flash (extend the head), then the guide number becomes 27 meters. The flash has a rheostat that reads the value of the position of the flash head, and which most likely regulates the power.
There are only two buttons on the flash: power on - 'Power AF' and a test pulse / mode switch - 'Flash TTL (R) M (G)'. No matter how I tried, but to make the flash work on cameras Nikon D80 и D700 I did not succeed in automatic TTL mode - my cameras simply do not 'see' the flash, as it happens when using manual flashes. Modes are switched by holding down the 'Flash TTL (R) M (G)' button. Automatic TTL mode is theoretically available when the red diode ('R'ed) is on. Manual flash mode is available when the green LED ('G'reen) is on.
As for the TTL mode, the instructions say the following: i-TTL modes: Long press power light until it changed to red that means TTL mode (Based on the manual mode) Set camera as P mode, half press camera shtuter button for focus, when heard focus is comfirmed then can take picture.
Therefore, I have the right to consider that no automatic i-TTL flash mode supports! Also on flash you can not set the output power of the light pulse in manual flash mode.
This flash is probably a close relative of the camera mount. Polo D3000. Perhaps the flash output can be set using the camera menu, as is the case with Nikon Speedlight SB-400, but nothing is indicated in the instructions about it. The instructions also have a bunch of mistakes: spelling errors in words, incoherent text, some nonsense about the backlight (AF-Assist Beam), the use of terms for the Canon system (EF, Speedlite). If you read and believe the instructions, then there is even a function to prevent overheating of the flash after 20 shots :).
There is a flash in the version for Canon cameras, most likely the instruction was written specifically for such a modification. And, suddenly, it turned out that the Viltrox JY610 version for Canon cameras has only one central sync contact (see), which completely deprives it of any automatic modes. But what caused the presence of a full set of sync contacts on the flash leg for the version for Nikon cameras - I do not know.
The flash delivery package includes: three diffuser nozzles in different colors (white, blue, orange), stand foot, velor cover, user manual, warranty card, box packaging. Color diffusers are not able to transmit the value of their color temperature, like this make native color filters for Nikon flashes.
I believe that a simple and inexpensive manual flash Yongnuo Speedlite YN460 It will be many times more effective than Viltrox JY610N. If you still don’t know whether to buy an external flash, read about its capabilities in the 'sectionExternal Flash'. My advice on choosing a 'native' flash for Nikon cameras can be found under 'Flash Selection for Nikon Cameras'.
Results
In my Viltrox JY610N i-TTL Speedlite test, I found that the flash always fires at a specific target power and does not have any declared i-TTL auto mode. Ultimately, the Viltrox JY610N i-TTL Speedlite is a typical 'China misunderstanding'.
↓↓↓ Like it :) ↓↓↓ Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.
Thank you, Arkady, warned amateur photographers from buying this miracle of hostile technology :).
I had one. I bought in Thailand in a store, it shines quite brightly. Only I did not have an M / TTL switch. Brightness was controlled by covering the diaphragm. Apparently there are two versions of them. Recently I bought another one on ebay, the seller claimed that she had a TTL mode. After reading the review, I realized that the seller most likely cheated :(
As it comes, I’ll check for DF and unsubscribe.
To check TTL, it’s enough to photograph on the same parameters, but from different distances, if the photos are equally highlighted, TTL works, if it is lit or under-lit, TTL does not work.
As I already wrote, TTL does not work with Nikon D80 / D700 cameras, primarily for one simple reason - the cameras do not recognize that they have a flash installed :). Well, of course, if you use your advice, the exposure will be different.
Very similar to Canon 270EX2
people buy original flashes - yes, expensive, BUT they serve for a long time and work correctly with the camera and lens!
I don't understand either ... .. There are native outbreaks ... Why buy third-party manufacturers ...? Well, dig up some money and buy a normal native flash, but no, I'll save three rubles and then I'll spend much more on another one, because shit, it's shit in Africa, it's cheaper and shitty and in the end you will spend more than you would buy a real one ... .. I have never understood and I do not understand such people…. I do not need a flash often, but I know that if I buy the most beautiful third-party, I will regret it anyway, I have already gone through this, not with a flash, though ... And I still bought an sb 910 and let it lie, but when necessary, I have a normal one. flash, not Chinese bullshit ... ..
Of course I agree with you - if you buy shit, it will be shit. The solution is pretty simple - don't take shit! But at the expense of the “Chinese garbage”, everything is not at all so unambiguous, that is, there is “garbage” and there are not even bad outbreaks of Chinese manufacturers. Yes, they are still inferior to the flagship ones from Nikon and Kenon in some functions, but they definitely bypass the mid-price brand outbreaks. Well, you have spent a considerable amount on sb910, while you yourself say that you do not use it often. I have been using for two years (or already three ..?) Junno 565EX on Nikon D5100. About 20 percent of photographs with a flash, one set of batteries has already “stopped by”, the other two are still working but they are holding weaker, and the flash itself works and works. True, I never, or almost never, beat in series. Hence the conclusion - a normal Chinese outbreak at the price of 1/4 of the native Nikon's - justifies itself very much.
"I have never understood and I do not catch such people"
I never understood people who care about who buys what and why. The world is very diverse thank God. They will figure out what to buy without you.
Thank you, dear man, I clarified and taught everything :). I would also suggest where to get a native flash weighing 200 grams, with the ability to turn your head and size smaller than a pack of cigarettes and TTL. And all that you know, and for all everyone has already decided in advance, here is a clever girl! :)
The native SB-400 is not bad, only it is much weaker (in terms of power) of the surveyed and 4 times more expensive. SB-300 is generally 7 times more expensive and still weaker.
Much weaker? 21 meters vs 22?
Smiled comparison with Polo D3000)))
On Avito I saw 3500 rubles.
Maybe working with constant power is just an advantage (like the M mode when shooting) - stability, predictability, independence from external factors.
ahaha))
Stable overexposure and overexposure!
It's the 21st century, and all the outbreaks, incl. professional, make for AA or AAA batteries. They take a long time to charge, discharge evenly, and weigh decently - 4 AA acres almost like the flash itself. Why not switch to lithium-ion 18650 format, for example - one ac-r is about 1,5 times larger in size of AA, and in capacity it is equal to 4. They are not a problem to buy or remove from an old laptop battery, they are charged in 1-2 hours. There are also more compact standard sizes.
The prevalence of just such elements is not very large, I only met them on the radio market. To remove from the used laptop batteries this is some kind of sadomasochism, then you can use a conventional incandescent light bulb as in the beginning of the 20th century to use a flash, especially the older elements have a very small capacity and fast self-discharge. Few people insert ordinary batteries, insert nickel-cadmium batteries, and lithium batteries are much more expensive.
Probably engineers and marketers are smarter and smarter than us, since everything is in place for now.
Just 18650 is very common. But, in my opinion, it is more logical to use batteries from cameras in flashes. This is more universal when one battery can be used in both camera and flash. This is if there is enough discharge current for such a battery.
Alexei, by no means more universal. For example, I had 4 Nikon cameras and they had 3 different types of batteries. And what, did I need to buy different flashes for each camera?
Marketers and engineers may be smarter, but I would like to use batteries that charge in one hour, and not in 13-15 hours (fast charging to the detriment of capacity does not count)
There are 18650 batteries on almost any layout with batteries, on the Internet they are a dime a dozen. In all more or less normal flashlights, they are used, so this format is very common and it really would be time to transfer the flash to it. I have an old Nikon flash on 16340 batteries - those are harder to get, and I found batteries of this format in the transition ...
There is such a thing as 'standard', and this thing has a lot of advantages.
So, you wandered into some village, and there is no way to charge the batteries, but even in the local store there will be AA batteries.
Further: I have four flashes, a digital camera, and a bunch of everything that works from AA-batteries, there are 6-7 sets of good batteries (+ a few weak ones), there are two 'intelligent' chargers (+ a few simple ones).
But, for example, tomorrow Nikon will release the SB-920 with 18650 batteries. I have neither batteries, nor chargers, like many photographers. How popular will such a flash be?
Arkady, I can’t insert the image from the smartphone. When you select a picture, the page reloads with the loss of the written comment. : (((
Old Soviet Flash Photon; sef; Electronics; Chaika and others generally worked in a "tight" connection to the 220V network. They had no swivel head and sparkled with constant power. And after all, how people also worked with this technique. Now, when there is a choice to take a flash with a variable power and a rotary head, and even a ZOOM of the illumination angle (I’m silent about it), flash like those described in the review automatically fall into the category of “for losers” or “for rogue”.
I definitely won’t take this for myself (variable power is important), but maybe someone needs it.
Received a TTL version of this flash today. TTL mode on the DFK works very well. Only in contrast to the original Nikon flashes, which give a small, invisible to the eye pulse to assess the illumination, Viltrox gives a series of rather bright pulses before focusing to determine the power of the puff. It can remotely control other flash units if they are set to SU-4 mode. You can adjust the power from the camera (on the Thai version of this flash, I did not have this opportunity, also on the Thai version there was no TTL mode). Of course the DF cannot control this flash in advanced CLS mode, “this menu item is not available at current settings”. The DF does not have a built-in flash and Viltrox can replace it, although not 100%, but it does this task very well for its money.
Dmitry, and the question price?
Dmitry, please explain to me - why are you installing a dubious Chinese flash on the top Nikon? A native flash will cost you 20 (!!) times less than an expensive top-end DSLR DF (for photo gourmets) !!
Yes, this question also bothers me very much :).
The owner of Df, for sure, only thinks how to save on the flash.
"Viltrox gives a series of fairly bright pulses before focusing to determine puff power."
This works the AF-Assist Beam function for autofocus lighting, it is turned off by briefly pressing the Power button (the LED should blink orange).
This is the JY620N which?
ZY If there are people with experience of using VILTROX JY620N - unsubscribe how and what. I want to buy myself on D3000
Ebay cost me 1600 rubles. In Russian online stores 2500-3500. Be sure to check if this version has TTL.
By the way, it makes a series of flashes only in low light, apparently for autofocus lighting.
This works the AF-Assist Beam function for autofocus lighting, it is turned off by briefly pressing the Power button (the LED should blink orange).
flash you need to definitely buy!
normal and with a rotary head.
with all this, you need to use it as little as possible!
for its light greatly spoils the atmosphere of the picture!
open aperture + high enough ISO
+ flash up with a reflector (manual mode and minimum power).
... oh yes I almost forgot:
NO FLASHES WHEN SHOOTING IN PASMURNY WEATHER OR IN SHADOW!
it flattens the model's face, upsets the color balance, gives unnecessary glare ...
cloudy weather or good shade in sunny weather - the perfect softbox ...
PS. this recommendation is not suitable for “wedding_photographers” who like to use flash in and out of place. the main thing is that a separate person or two with a monster-like lighting device would run around (look how we master the fee!). at the same time, the final photo turns out to be unnatural, unnecessary and incomprehensible crap!
if you don't know how to use artificial lighting, use natural light! time-tested technology!
Scary. I have sb-600, sb-700 and sb-900. The first reason I bought this flash is that there is no native flash in DF, and I was hoping to control three native flashes using it using CLS, but unfortunately the CLS control menu in the camera is not active when you connect it to the camera (by the way, when I connect it 700k and 900k this menu is also inactive). The second reason is for traveling, when extra grams are worth its weight in gold.
Well, so as not to drag heaviness with you, there is a proven SB-400 and a new SB-300.
Doesn't the SB-700 flash itself (especially on the SB-900) switch to Master mode, where you can control other flash units?
There is also sb-500
It is already a little larger, but also an option.
In general, Dmitry, you have so much $$$ (judging by the equipment). It would be easier, faster and cheaper to transfer these 1600 rubles. Arkady, and he would advise you (I think he wouldn’t refuse) about CLS and choosing the right equipment.
On 700k and 900 there is a Master mode, but if you use one of them to control other flashes, I get one wireless flash, and it can also affect the lighting scheme. And again the weight. And what about 300k, 400k or 500k will control other flashes? Via the camera menu?
From the above list, only 500 will be remotely controlled, in the article there is a link to the page with Nikon flashes, where everything is indicated in the plate. Also, if you control in CLS mode using TTL automatic mode, then the master flash can be configured only for the control mode, how to get rid of the residual impulse that may still appear in such a bundle is described here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/
300ka, 400ka is a replacement for the missing built-in flash, a travel solution where extra grams are worth their weight in gold.
—
And controlling multi-channel mega-light is a completely different task, and for this there are completely different devices, such as the Wireless Speedlight Commander SU-800
http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/speedlights/su-800/
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And it would not be superfluous to get acquainted with the instruction, with a list of supported accessories, which of them support which camera functions. Then you would not have to spend extra money and time.
Arkady. In my camera menu there is no way to switch the flash to command mode. This menu is inactive. And you can’t activate it in any way. I understand that this menu is only activated when the SU-800 is connected? Or when you connect the sb-500, it will also become active?
The menu will become active only when using flashes of the SB-300/400 type, which do not have their own menus. In general, all the Nikon's native flashes, except for the very simplest ones, such as the 300/400, are controlled exclusively through their own menu.
Thanks for the advice. I'll try as much as possible 300k and 400k.
and what, to transfer seven hundred in command mode by turning the switch is not fate?
I know how to switch 700ku to command mode, but I do not want to lose one flash. If you carefully read what was written earlier, you may understand what I mean.
A flash from the review when compared with the SB-300 and SB-400.
“Color diffusers are not capable of delivering their own color temperature, as is the case with Nikon's native color filters.”
"In addition, the flash output cannot be set to the flash output in manual flash mode."
And then SB-300 and SB-400 everyone knows how to do it :), which are also 5 times more expensive.
TTL works fine there, tested on the D7000 and D600. Also works great with the YN-622N radio synchronizers.
“There are also a lot of blunders in the instructions: spelling mistakes in words, incoherent text, some kind of nonsense about the AF-Assist Beam backlight lamp”
AF-Assist Beam is a function of autofocus illumination using the method of a series of short-term low-power puffs (a la stroboscope), if desired, it is turned off. Works depending on the lack of light. And it works fine. And the instruction there is not perfect, but everything is quite clear. The device costs 5 times cheaper than analogs from Nikon.
In general, not a review, but nonsense. In general, it is clear why: the author's flash on his cameras did not "start" and "the cart rushed downhill." It is bad, of course, that the flash does not work on TTL on old cameras, but this is China for a penny, in such cases any normal buyer will find out everything in advance.
To the author, for information for future buyers about problems with TTL on the D80 and D700, plus. For everything else and the review as a whole minus.
Note that the SB-300 and SB-400 can still set the power manually through the camera menu (modern cameras). AF-Assist Beam is Canon's inherent AF-assist beam technology, and even if it works with Nikon cameras, it can raise additional questions. As for the flash - if there is no compatibility with cameras in the instructions, then it's not worth it, because its purchase turns into a lottery “will TTL work on my camera” :).
And how to turn off the autofocus backlight? I did not find in the instructions
Vlad, tell me, today this flash came to me, the first few shots it took, it was puffing, and then it began to shine for a short time when focusing, I understand correctly that this is “AF-Assist Beam is a function of autofocus illumination by the method of a series of short-term low-power puffs”, and then I thought that something burned out there ... or a short circuit ... ??? (FA 3100).
A new modification of this flash has arrived: JY610N II.
It features a LCD-screen and the presence of a large number of buttons.
It cost a little less than $ 25, but it seems that this was a mistake of the seller who put up a new modification at the price of the old one.
At first, TTL on the camera did not turn on, and I already thought that I would have to get by with TTL through remote control from the built-in flash, which mode I don't need at all. It took me a long time to switch modes, and at some point the inscription “TTL” suddenly flashed on the screen. Now TTL mode turns on and off as expected. What was the matter - I did not understand.
For some reason, I can’t get AF Assist Beam to work, although I found it and turned it on in the settings. The function is very useful, I will pick it further.
The general impression of the flash: it is mechanically made soundly, but somehow I didn’t work out with the controls - the impression is that the controls are somehow unstable, incomprehensible. Maybe I'll get used to it. But in any case, for irresponsible applications for this money, the acquisition is good.
”The guide number when folded is 22 meters. If the flash is expanded (pull out the head), then the guide number becomes equal to 27 meters. The flash has a rheostat ... "
- it is unlikely that there is some kind of rheostat, the flash simply works at full power, when the head is extended, the light spot simply “concentrates”, and, accordingly, “power increases”
Today I received JY610NII with Ali - it's not yet when to figure it out, but !! - Workmanship - a solid four with + !!!,
agreed with the D7000 immediately (the displayed aperture is displayed on the screen),
TTL works !!! - several shots with different apertures are exposed in the same way ... but AF Assist Beam, on the contrary, works and I haven't figured out how to turn it off yet ..
TOTAL PRICE 1650 rub. + SIZE + TTL = EXCELLENT .. lope-current time will work ????
I also got such a flash on “try”. in general, an interesting toy. only the jamb was with batteries. were unprepared for the appearance of a puff, they shook out half-discharged from the remote control - all the rules, took a picture of 20 frames, the batteries died. bought new ones - do not turn on. what's the trouble, who knows?….
A flash is a rather gluttonous thing, the starting current consumed at the beginning of the capacitor charge is quite large - 2-5 amperes. Cheap batteries can die the first time they are turned on. Better to use 'ready-to-use' batteries.
thanks for the answer! I’ll go for the batteries)
Hello! The puff also doesn’t react to acces, some tricky defense worked, it turns out that on 610 there are a couple of unidentified buttons under the head of the puff, but there is no description for them, neither in the book, nor in the internet. if there is even a grain of information about these cannabis (which is responsible for what), I will be very grateful.
If there is anything under the head, then most likely it is just a head position sensor.
so the fact of the matter is that these buttons are pressed specifically, at different positions of the head these buttons (they are like levers) are not used by the flash in any way. in general, we’ll think about how to find out the cause and effect, accomplish your goal.
Guide number is not measured in meters.
This is the product of the distance by the f-number, at the given values of the sensitivity and the angle of radiation (determined by the position of the zoomed reflector head). Simply put - leading 22 means that at f22 the flash “reaches” 1 meter, at f 8 - 2.75m (22 divided by 8), and so on.
The manufacturer gives the leading on the basis that the ISO equivalent is 100.
there was a lot of talk about YN-460 flashes and similar ones - why should my family be 1500 times better ... I use this flimsy China at weddings 4th year - the first lamp died - after 3 years of merciless exploitation in series ... (my own St. 800 also died ) - I stupidly threw out the current china and bought a couple more for the stock ... I puff on - I consider these puffs as a consumable ... which, if not a pity ... mode - pulse synchronization ... yes for that kind of money ... it's a holiday)
About China. I bought a flash voeloon v500 - the website of a Chinese company in Russian
http://ru.voeloon.com/v500-ttl-speedlight_p2.html
There are 3 flare options, Nikon, Canon and Sony.
$ 150, the head near the flash rotates in all directions, zooming from 24 to 180 can be done automatically, or manually (using buttons). Power is adjustable from 1/1 to 1/128.
Guide Number 50
Flash Mode I-TTL/M/S1/S2
Dispay Type LCD display & LED backlit
Vertical rotation angle -7 ~ 90 degree
Horizontal rotation angle 0-270 degree
Power 4 X AA Alkaline cell or AA Ni-MH cell
Lighting times 100 - 500 times
Recycle Time approx 5s (AA alkaline cell used), approx 2s (AA Ni-MH cell used)
Color Temperature 5600K
Flash Duration 1 / 800S - 1 / 20000S
Flash Control 22 Levels of Output Control (1/128 ~ 1/1) 14 Levels of Fine Tuning
Dimensions 20 x 7.5 x 6 cm / 7.87 ″ x 2.95 ″ x 2.36 ″
Weight 23.92 oz / 678 g
He works with my Nikon, in iTTL mode. There are 2 Slave modes - for the first and second flash, why pay more if I use a flash from time to time?