Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro review

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro camera shown in this review and lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) Radozhiva was presented by Sergey Gordubey. From Evenkia (north of the Krasnoyarsk Territory) the parcel with the equipment went for more than a month. I express my deep gratitude to Sergey for such project assistance. Camera and lens were sold and funds credited here.

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro review

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro review

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro is legendary digital SLR camera, which was introduced back in 2004, but is still appreciated by many photographers to this day. The main strength of the camera is a special matrix - Fujifilm SuperCCD SR II, consisting of two types of photodiodes arranged in a special way and allowing to achieve a large dynamic range and excellent color reproduction. The very name of the matrix 'Fujifilm SuperCCD SR'already hints at dynamic range, where' SR 'is'Super dynamic Range '-' Super Dynamic Range '. How the SuperCCD SR matrix is ​​arranged and functions can be viewed here.

Fujifilm SuperCCD technology was introduced in 1999 and has three generations: SuperCCD I, II, III. In 2003, with the release of the fourth generation of sensors, the technology branched out into SuperCCD HR (high resolution) and SuperCCD SR (high dynamic range). SuperCCD HR technology has survived to its eighth generation (counting from the beginning), while SuperCCD SR has only been updated to SuperCCD SR II once. In 2008 SuperCCD HR and SuperCCD SR technologies were merged and upgraded to SuperCCD EXR. In 2011, Fujifilm ditched the SuperCCD EXR with its special shape and sub-pixel arrangement. CMOS technology, with its conventional Bayer pattern, won, but the experiments did not end there - Fujifilm can still surprise with something unusual in our time :).

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) lens

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with lens Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)

Below is the evolution of the Fujifilm FinePix CZK:

  1. Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro - January 2000, based on the film Nikon F60 (aka Nikon N60), the first generation SuperCCD. Matrices for the Fujifilm FinePix 4700 Zoom and 4900 Zoom compacts were manufactured using the same technology.
  2. Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro - January 2002, based on the film Nikon F80 (aka Nikon N80), SuperCCD III (the matrix third generation) Fujifilm F601 Zoom, S602 Zoom, and M603 compact matrices were manufactured using the same technology.
  3. Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro - February 2004, based Fujifilm FinePix S2 ProSuperCCD SR II matrix (second generation SR matrix)
  4. Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro UVIR - August 2006, upgraded Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro for shooting in IR (Infra Red) and UV (Ultra Violet) spectra.
  5. Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro - September 2006, based Nikon D200, a slightly upgraded SuperCCD SR II matrix (similar to the one installed on the Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro).
  6. Fujifilm FinePix IS Pro - June 2007, Revamped Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro for shooting in IR (Infra Red) and UV (Ultra Violet) spectra.

Yes, that's right, there is no intermediate model between S3 Pro and S5 Pro because in the east they do not like the number 4. All Fujifilm FinePix SLR cameras have an APS-C type sensor with crop factor 1.5 X, and are analogues of cameras Nikon DX.

Fujifilm FinePix SLR cameras have omitted the use of first-generation SuperCCD SR arrays, which were used by the Fujifilm F700, F710 and S20 Pro compacts. And also missed the second generation SuperCCD, which were the Fujifilm Finepix 6800 Zoom and 6900 Zoom.

All Fujifilm FinePix SLR cameras were built on the basis of Nikon DSLRs, both film and digital, and therefore have a Nikon F mount and are compatible with Nikon lenses and other add-ons (flashes, remote controls, boxes, etc.).

Until the first digital SLR camera Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro Nikon and Fujifilm also collaborated and produced quasi full-format digital SLR cameras Nikon E / Fujifilm Fujix DS.

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)

Chassis S2 Pro and S3 Pro (from this review) is built on the basis of the Nikon F80 film SLR camera (for America it was produced under a different name - Nikon N80). A camera is built on the basis of the same camera. Nikon D100... In my opinion, due to the unfortunate main command dial with which ISO is selected and custom CSM functions, all of these three cameras are - S2 Pro, S3 Pro and D100 they have the worst control of all the digital cameras with Nikon mount I have ever used.

S3 Pro, like Nikon D100 and S2 Pro, uses a focus system Multi-cam 900 by 5 focus points, the center point is cruciform. Responsible for exposure 10-segment SPD sensor... The ISO range is small - from 100 to 1600 units, you can select ISO values ​​100, 160, 200, 400, 800, 1600. Functions Auto ISO not on the camera. Minimum excerpt shutter - 1/4000 s, and excerpt sync with flash is 1/180 s. The camera is designed to use old flashes that work in automatic D-TTL mode. Modern flashes will not work with S3 Pro in TTL or I-TTL mode. And it’s also very inconvenient that the value excerpts and apertures are changed only by half-stops (step 0.5 EV).

Too bad Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro does not support auto metering exposure with lenses without CPU contacts (i.e. manual).

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

The S3 Pro uses a small two-inch display and 235.000 dots. The display, by modern standards, is very weak and is more suitable for setting menu options. There are two additional monochrome displays for quick setup of some parameters.

Depending on the selected dynamic range mode, the S3 Pro can either shoot at 2.5 fps or around 1.5 (RAW), 1.1 (JPEG FINE), 1.0 (JPEG NORMAL) fps. The following is placed in the camera buffer:

  • 12 frames in JPEG mode 12 MP Fine in standard dynamic range mode
  • 7 frames in RAW mode in standard dynamic range mode
  • 9-10 frames in JPEG 12 MP Fine mode in high dynamic range mode
  • 3 frames RAW HDR

It's important: Memory card writing speed CF is about 2 MB/second, and recording one photo in RAW WIDE quality is about 12 seconds. This applies even to very fast memory cards.

It's important: memory cards CF those larger than 4 GB take a very long time to format and initialize with the camera. Optimal use of cards CF 4 GB or less (recommended by the instructions). In this case, memory cards of 8, 16, 32 GB can use the entire memory capacity, but there may be a very long delay after turning on the camera, which is spent on initializing the memory card (can be minutes).

It's important: The camera is best used with 'H' type XD memory cards. Such cards are only available in 512 MB, 1 GB, 2 GB (very rare). Marking 'H' indicates a high data write speed. With these memory cards, recording a single picture in RAW WIDE quality is about 5 seconds, and the recording speed is about 5 MB/s. At the same time, in the official characteristics of such cards, it indicates that the maximum write speed should be at the level of 4 MB / second. Slower XD cards like 'M' and 'M+' are slightly slower.

It's important: This camera does not work with Micro adapter SD -> XD.

VERY IMPORTANT: The image review functions Menu->IMAGE DISP.->ON and Menu->IMAGE DISP.->PREVIEW greatly reduce frame buffer and significantly slow down the recording of pictures on the memory card. It is recommended to use the Menu->IMAGE DISP.->OFF function.

It's important: when frame buffer completely filled and the camera cannot take the next shot, on the secondary monochrome display (above the main color display), the remaining frame counter changes its background to a dark background. As soon as the background becomes light again, you can take at least one more photo. This makes it easy to know when you can continue shooting, which is very important when shooting with 'WIDE' dynamic range in 'RAW' format (when the files weigh 25 MB, and wait for one frame to be recorded on the cards CF account for 12 seconds).

It's important: Frame buffer data is written faster when shooting is stopped. If shooting continues, each individual picture will take significantly longer to be recorded to the memory card. Most likely, the recording of already received frames from the frame buffer to the memory card slows down due to the distribution of processor power for processing each new frame.

I want to clarify that RAW files (.'RAF') use 14-bit color depth and recorded without compression (i.e. no data loss due to compression). RAW files are 25MB in 'WIDE' wide dynamic range mode and 12MB in standard dynamic range mode (only S-pixels are encoded). The camera takes pictures with a maximum size of 4256 X 2848 pixels (12.1 megapixels).

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

The S3 Pro has a Live View mode. Fujifilm is 3 years ahead of Nikon in Live View. The first cameras with Live View were Nikon D3 и D300presented simultaneously in August 2007. Fujifilm overtook Canon, which 40D and 1D Mark III with Live View function was presented in the same summer of 2007 (Canon EOS 20Da is not taken into account, because it is intended for specific work). True, the S3 Pro's Live View is a bit stripped down:

  • Runs a maximum of 30 seconds. The timer with the remaining time is displayed.
  • The picture is displayed only in black and white.
  • Only manual focus is available.
  • There is no quick button to enable Live View.
  • While Live View is on, you cannot shoot. To release the shutter, you must exit the Live View mode.
  • An increase in the central region of the image is available, but only twice.
  • The 'Live View' in the camera is called 'Live Image'.
  • There is no way to change the exposure value, only increase or decrease the brightness of the image displayed on the display is available.
  • When Live View is turned on, the batteries run out quickly.

In general, such a Live View can be useful only in rare cases :)

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro and Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro are two truly legendary DSLR cameras. Despite the fact that they have completely different body and controls, the quality of images from both cameras is very similar. Fujifilm claims that the S5 Pro uses a modified Fujifilm SuperCCD SR II sensor, but if you dig around the global web, you can say with certainty that the S5 Pro has only changed the low-pass filter, which is designed to combat moiré. In general, the thinner filter on the S3 Pro can make it easier to achieve sharper images than on the S5 Pro. Actually, because of this, many users like the image quality from ProTroyka more than from ProTroyka. On the other hand, there are a lot of opinions that the S5 Pro has a slightly nicer color, and a little less noise, since the S5 Pro, in addition to the updated low-pass filter, has also updated the signal processing hardware, which allowed expanding the ISO range by one notch. Personally, I would prefer to use the newer - S5 Pro.

The S5 Pro and S3 Pro are not the cameras that should be bought for high ISO settings - they are primarily interesting for their dynamic range and color reproduction, which are revealed in full force only at low ISO values. I am sure there will be many people in the comments to this review who would argue that the S3 Pro's high ISO noise pattern is very similar to film grain.

Below is a diagram with the evolution of Super CCD matrices:

The evolution of the first SuperCCD / SuperCCD SR matrices

The evolution of the first SuperCCD / SuperCCD SR matrices

Some useful observations on the S3 Pro:

  • The camera loves well-charged batteries and rechargeable batteries and discharges them very quickly. Perhaps the charge level controller on the camera, which I visited in review, is old and does not quite correctly determine the charge.
  • S3 Pro does not have a Russian-language menu.
  • The camera uses a large full-frame mirror, which it inherited from S2 Proand the one from Nikon F80 (N80). The shutter sound is quite quiet and pleasant.
  • The combo body is an indispensable thing when shooting in a vertical (portrait) position. Models S1 Pro and S2 Pro lack a duplicate shutter button in portrait position.
  • The joystick does not have a central button.
  • On the body of the S3 Pro are: USB 2.0, IEEE 1394 (Firewire), video output, DC-IN external power connector (for connecting AC-5VX AC adapter), remote control connector, PC Sync connector for studio flashes and a hole on the button shutter release for the old style shutter cable.
  • I would like to have a more accurate automatic white balance, sometimes the camera 'guesses' it not quite right. This is a major flaw that has been substantially corrected in the newer camera. Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro.
  • The built-in flash always fires in D-TTL auto mode and cannot be used in other modes. As external flash I used SB-900, which works on the S3 Pro in any mode except I-TTL. In addition, the S3 Pro does not support high-speed sync.
  • The S3 Pro has an auto focus assist lamp and a button to illuminate additional monochrome displays. It's funny, but one monochrome display has a green backlight, and the other is orange.
  • Shooting/Drive mode switch lever (Standard, Burst, Self-timer, multiple exposure) has a lock button to prevent accidental shift.
  • There is also a button for previewing the depth of field. It cannot be programmed for any other function.

On the S3 Pro, you can choose from two film simulation modes: F1 for soft tones, which is great for portraits, and F2 for rich shots, which is great for landscapes and other shooting where vivid color and contrast are required. Unlike F1, F2, in normal STD (standard mode), you can separately adjust the gradations of dynamic range, color saturation, contrast amount, and sharpness for pictures.

UPDATE 1

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro+ Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4D.

Source RAW (WIDE 2) and JPEG (FINE, 12 M, WIDE 2) can be viewed and/or downloaded here (Google Drive Gallery).

Source JPEGs (FINE, 6 M, WIDE 2) per lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) can be viewed and/or downloaded here (Google Drive Gallery).

UPDATE 2

Examples of photos on HELIOS-44M 2/58 and camera Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with readers of Radozhiva shared by photographer Alexander Gvozd.

UPDATE 3

My photo examples Carl Zeiss Planar 1,4/50 ZF.2 T* and a Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro camera, made according to the method Zero JPEG, can download/view here (Google Drive gallery, 60 photos).

UPDATE 4

All sample photos in the gallery below were obtained by the rules ZERO JPE on the lens Sigma Zoom DC 18-250mm 1:3.5-6.3 DC MACRO OS HSM.

JPEG source files ('.jpg') can be download from this link (50+ photos, Google Drive gallery).

It's a shame that Fujifilm's SuperCCD SR technology has been abandoned. Only four SLR cameras are built on its basis: S3 Pro, S3 Pro UVIR, S5 Pro and IS Pro, in fact, with the same sensor. Similar matrices were also used on digital cameras Fujifilm F700, F710 and S20 Pro (the difference in the arrangement of R-pixels) It is impossible to even imagine what would happen to image quality if this technology were finalized, for example, applied to the manufacture of a full-format camera. By the way, if we take synthetic tests, then modern not cheap the Nikon D4s camera, introduced in February 2014, loses in dynamic range to the ancient 'wooden' Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro, introduced back in 2004 (confirmation link). But 10 years have passed! But I'm glad Fujifilm is one of the few companies that is trying to update the matrix paradigm with conventional Bayer patternlaunching their X-Pro1, X-T1, X-E1, X-E2, X-M1 mirrorless cameras with X-Trans CMOS sensor.

RAW / RAF Conversion, HYPER UTILITY HS-V3

Render original RAW files (with '.RAF' resolution) is best done with the old original utility Fuji Hyper-Utility HS-V3... For the best quality, you should configure the converter like this. On modern operating systems, this converter may not work, or it will require many tricks to install it. The repackaged version (everything superfluous has been cut out) optimized for working with Windows 7/8/10/11 can be download from this link... Your use of the Fujifilm Hyper Utility HS-V3 remains entirely at your own risk.

Also, Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw (a built-in plugin in Adobe Photoshop) allow you to work well with Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro RAW files. In my opinion, if there is a desire to use third-party RAW converters, then it is best to use Fuji Hyper-Utility HS-V3 to convert source RAW files (with '.RAF' resolution) to TIFF format with 16-bit color depth ( the output should be files of 70-75 megabytes each), and later TIFF files are already processed by third-party converters, such as Capture One, Lightroom and any others. The TIFF format allows you to save the correct color reproduction (which third-party converters cannot provide), a resolution of 12 MP and a data reserve for easy manipulation with source files.

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)

Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro with lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)

Results

Nowadays, the Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro is considered a morally obsolete camera. But many true artists photographers appreciate it to this day because of the unique sensor with a large dynamic range and pleasant color reproduction. This is one of the few cameras with which you can immediately get a wonderful result when shooting in JPEG format, without long dances with a tambourine over the conversion and processing of RAW files. For leisurely creative shooting, especially for portrait shooting - S3 Pro is a real find, especially since it is very cheap. Indeed, newer Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro in almost every way better than its predecessor.

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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.

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Comments: 358, on the topic: Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro review

  • Paul

    Hello. Tell me, with what lenses on S3Pro / S5Pro will autofocus work? It seems to have heard that the EF-S lenses are not suitable. Only EF. Is it so ?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      s3 / s5 only work with Nikon lenses or third-party Nikon lenses, not with Canon EF, EF-S.
      S3 pro, S5 pro work with all Nikon lenses except AF-P (with stepper motor), E (with electromagnetic diaphragm). In rare situations, there may be some incompatibility with a particular lens.

    • Pokemon

      Pay attention to the mount type of these cameras.
      Autofocus will work on lenses with Nikon mount. Namely autofocus D / G / Non D series.
      The new E Series also, but the diaphragm will be constantly open.
      Under these cameras, it is advisable to carefully select new sharp fixes.

      • Pokemon

        Oh, Arkady got ahead :)

  • Paul

    Thanks, in the previous message I was mistaken. Of course I meant AF / AF-S

  • Pokemon

    Despite the similar matrixes, DD 400% for S5Pro and Wide2 mode for Proroyka are different.
    DD for Pryatka is much wider than that of Protroyka and Sigma SD-1 Merrill, this is noticeable.
    In Proyroki, the Wide2 mode is somewhere in the middle, i.e. more like 230% on Pryatyka.
    By colors, Protroyka can give a more interesting result on BB Auto than Pryatka.
    Shooting and processing RAF at Proyroyka / Ghina is worth the inconvenience and loss of time.
    Hyper Utility is not so uncomfortable and bad as I read about it. The program works stably on 64-bit Windows 8.1 and quickly moves to Core i7 with 16GB of memory.

    • Novel

      The tune and ghoul are identical in the picture except for the thicker aa filter at the ghoul. There are models of ghouls with aa filter removed and then there is simply no difference with the design.
      As for the color and dd, Prometheus already posted paired photos, with deleted exifs the people could not find the difference between d200, d40 and ghoul.
      Here, too, someone laid out paired d5100 and ghouls, people clearly defined d5100 as ghoul on more beautiful halftones)

      • Pokemon

        Roman, on Pripyatka DO NOT remove the thick AA filter, but change it artificially to a thinner one.
        Alternatively - from Protroyka.
        There is a difference. It depends on a) the handshake of the master b) on the filter itself.
        There is a difference and the owners showed it to me on foto.ru. Most of them regretted replacing the filter. there are color distortions in the photo, which may have been due to a bad filter or incorrect work of the master. It's not about flowers, it's about Defective Photos. It is the technical marriage in the photo itself. I have both cameras on my hands. I'm not interested in comparing it with a “random camera” and proving something to someone. The difference between Permeation and Protroyka with other CCD cameras is elementary - we go out in sunny weather with clouds illuminated by the sun, put some Sigma 24-70 EX DG and look at the difference in DD, as well as the correctness of the transfer of colors and shades, well, at the picture of inclined ones, round lines. Due to the peculiarities of S3 / S5 matrices on oblique and round lines, there will always be jags - aliasing. This is due to the structure of the matrix, and this is only visible at full resolution of 12MP, which is conditional for both cameras, but with sharp lenses, it becomes working without sharping in the editors.

        • Pokemon

          The DD at Pryatyatka and Protroek was certainly amazing for those times it is clear why these cameras then became legendary.
          Pridyatka on DD still looks good compared to modern crop cameras.
          If Protroyka is inferior to modern cameras, then Pryatka still keeps at low ISO.
          DD on Proyatka at ISO 100 is definitely wider than on D90, D700, D3s. I'm not sure about D4, you can compare - both cameras are at hand, but it makes no sense.

          • Novel

            IMHO, gadget cool camera.
            I even bought a couple of them in reserve.
            But after working with the first player and the pyadvak without regret, they sold them.

        • Pokemon

          And the marriage when replacing the filter with a thinner one was expressed in some kind of wild colored moire and strange dimming, as if damage to the matrix. It looks like dust, but not on top of the AA filter, but as if the master, when replacing the filter, poured dust on the bare matrix itself and put on the filter on top. I decided not to change the filter on my Pryatka. Volver suggested doing this for $ 200, but I refused.

          • Novel

            You can and change the benefit of the matrix are identical.
            Yes, there is a lot of marriage and the risk is big.

        • Novel

          Delete. And even more, they were removed at the construction site.

      • Dmitriy

        The other day I decided to personally compare the penetration with the d40, and with the d800e (for persuasiveness), On one 50mm lens. The only thing that I have corrected in lightroom is the white balance, and barely the exposure, which is not a handicap for anyone. Frames from 800s were cropped, and converted into one size 6 megapixels, for identity. And what did I see? And there is no difference! Not in the shadows, not anywhere else! Even the detail, in spite of the thick filter at the heel, is at the same level for everyone! (at 6mp)

        • Michael

          Apparently, the shooting conditions are as follows. I tried d300 and d80 with incandescent lamps. With the same colors in bright areas, the colors in the shadow turned out different

        • Pokemon

          Dmitry, despite the fact that you wrote about S5Pro, in the discussion thread of S3Pro, I will write my impressions.
          I had the opportunity to make paired shots on: D4 and S3Pro, D750 and S5Pro, Sigma SD-1 Merrill and S5Pro, S3Pro and S5Pro.
          Everywhere shooting in RAW development in native converters, BB Auto or under lighting conditions (sunny or manual selection for fluorescent lamps). Everywhere sRGB.
          DD400% for S5Pro and WIDE2 for S3Pro are always on.
          It is very surprising that the D800E gave you detail when cropping up to 6MP like the S5Pro.
          If we talk about colors and shadows, then on D4 and D750 I have never managed to shoot as well as on Pro Fujah. ON X100T - yes, it was possible to give a picture similar in color as on S3Pro, very similar. On both Nikons I had to tinker to almost exactly fit the picture to Pro Fuji. It's possible, but it's time consuming and annoying.
          Yes, during development we stifle the “green”, removing its saturation, and we need to increase the saturation of the red shades. It turns out similar, but not that.
          The lenses on which the test was: Sigma 24-70 / 2.8 EX DG Macro, Nikkor 35-70 / 2.8D, Nikkor 28-70 / 2.8D, Sigma 28 / 1.8 EX DG Macro, Sigma 24-135 / 2.8-4.5D.
          On Pro Fujahs, it is easier to get a nice looking picture in good lighting at low ISO 100-200. In poor lighting and ISO 400, the colors fade and here D750 and D4 will “draw” the picture definitely better.
          In my experience, the S5Pro pretty accurately shows colors, gently saturating some of the shades, making the picture more festive. BUT: lemon yellow, bright blue metallic, dark blue metallic, shades of red and shades of green will always be what the eye saw them, perhaps a little more saturated than actually. There are no blockages and departures in other colors or the blunt accent of the blue channel (Pentax), or the green shades (some Nikon models), the red channel (some Canon models).
          S3Pro gives a different color picture from S5Pro. Because the camera is from Byzantine times, then the BB is roughly tuned here, say with the BB auto - it “cools” the picture a little, muffling a little shades of yellow and protruding shades of blue-cyan, BB-sunny, the picture sometimes looks inappropriate yellowish, but plays into your hands when shooting sunset or dawn ...
          Foveon - Sigma SD-1, for example, likes to accentuate shades of red and sometimes accentuate shades of violet (not Magenta, but violet or purple).
          These are personal impressions and I ask you not to dig into them. I wrote as-is without embellishment.

          • Valery A.

            Thanks for speaking. And there is a bottom line - which camera is the best (favorite) for you?

            • Pokemon

              This is not a "performance", dear, but simply a description of what I saw with my own eyes.
              *
              Favorite camera - NO. There is no perfect camera. There are nuances and disadvantages everywhere.
              Because such a camera does not exist, or has not yet fallen into my hands.

          • @ f_e_d_2

            Don't know why I can't see the difference? and everyone else can see! I argue this way: the difference in White Balance and some difference in the speed of the shutter and pressing the “pedal” of the aperture is not anyone's advantage. Even top-end cameras can be a little automatic at times, and everyone has a slightly different white balance calibration, so aligning them is a sacred matter for comparison. And I don’t even try to calibrate the camera (in lightroom), but it was made for that to correct factory flaws. In the end, everything is the same! In lightroom, even fuji S2Pro and D5200 in Lightroom, without touching anything except the white balance, they gave the same picture not only in colors, but also in DD!

            • Pokemon

              S2Pro physically will not be able to give the same DD as the d5200-5500.
              I “develop” raw from any of my cameras in my native developers. RAF with Fuji only in native Hyper Utility. Leveling the BB is a thankless task. Well, I went out to shoot mountain ash. The green and red shades of S5Pro, S3Pro and D750 are different. And yes, not in favor of the D750.

              • Roman

                And what is the problem with BB? When shooting in RAW there is no BB. The camera detects it and uses this value when developing, using the appropriate correction in the on-camera JPEG. Well, or the converter does the same. Whether you set a car or a custom value, RAW will be the same.

              • Pokemon

                Novel, in general, yes, but there is still a difference when working with rabbis from the Foveons or S3Pro (S5Pro to a lesser extent). This was discussed on foto.ru. Perhaps this is due to some imperfection of Sigma Photo pro and Hyper Utility or the operation of the cameras themselves.

    • Igor N.

      Is the viewfinder really that big in s3pro?
      Is it even larger than in the full-frame nikon D3?

  • @ f_e_d_2

    Maybe I'm color blind? :), then you judge, here are examples of paired photos on the D200 and D5200. both resize up to 6 mp. Between the dates of their production, an eternity! Does anyone see the difference?

    • Pokemon

      It is necessary to compare NEF among themselves. Moreover, the settings for both cameras should be exactly the same.
      But in fact, there is no point in bothering, adjusting one to the other. You just have to shoot with your favorite technique for your pleasure and do not be fooled by the technical component of the picture.

      • @ f_e_d_2

        I agree, but everything is subjective, and when you want to decide what to choose, you have to establish the truth by comparing head-on. And how can one not be adjusted to the same settings? Although they were the same here

    • Dmitry

      Well, what is there to look at and what to compare with?
      Is there a big difference in brightness in paired photos to test DD? no.
      Is there an extensive palette of colors of different intensities to appreciate the difference in
      color rendering? I do not have it either.
      Are there portraits of people with different skin tones in different lighting conditions to evaluate
      How is skinton transmitted? I do not have it either.

      It’s worthless to look at some rotten wooden barracks for demolition and garbage, there simply is not the necessary visual information to see the difference between the cameras.

  • @ f_e_d_2

    and D5200

    • Anonymous

      By color, I also did not notice the difference. Maybe the fingerprints need to be compared?
      5200 is a bit soapy.
      The d200 has a noticeable grid of noise ... Again this grid, as in the comments to d600 ...?

      • @ f_e_d_2

        The soapiness of the d5200 is here because an ancient D-lens was used on it, and manual focus was not accurate. I apologize for posting such a frame. but the essence of the test was in color and DD.

        • Valery A.

          And can you do the same, but portraits?

    • Anonymous

      In fact, the d200 has a richer color (green roofs), only 5200 makes the picture darker, maybe that is why the color seems different.

      • @ f_e_d_2

        Gentlemen Photographers!
        I suggest that you familiarize yourself with my 2 tests, this time, I also confirm the findings with Raw files.
        Test First: Fuji S5pro is praised by “unbeatable colors and DD” a lot!
        I was impatient to buy it, but asked a friend who had it to meet in the park to take comparative pictures. (by the way, my comrade with great experience, and now, takes pictures only on "Propyatka", having gone through a lot of equipment)
        The test involved S5pro, Nikon D40, and to make the comparison d800e better. I used the Nikkor 50 \ 1.4G lens (although it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that it should be the same for everyone), at the same aperture 5.6, WITH THE SAME ISO 200 (AS ONE OF THE TEST IT HAS A MINIMUM ISO 200)
        photo with d800e sprinkled, and all resize up to 3000 along the long side (6mp)
        The purpose of the test is to identify whether there is superiority in colors, etc., in Pryatka over d40?
        both have an honest 6 megapixels (this is above the roof for most tasks, especially for the new massive INSTAGRAM standard, where only 1080 pixels are required on the short side, which is about 2 megapixels with our aspect ratio)
        in the link, which will be lower, RAW files, as well as those that I showed in the lightroom, bringing everything to the same white balance, and someone slightly adjusted the exposure AND ONLY!

        https://yadi.sk/d/Tg3eWVzLxru6MA
        My conclusion: No one has any advantages. Spaghetti is greatly overrated
        and also, so as not to confuse you, I did not post a photo here in sunny weather, but the results on DD were the same.

        • Michael

          Thanks, let's see. True, for fuja you need a native utility, because acr does not see additional pixels

          • @ f_e_d_2

            I’ll try on an old computer, look in the native utility, but as far as I understand, the native utility sees those pre-installed Jpeg in the camera and it’s easy to select any one with only one picture in the RAV.
            In the sun, d picture with D40, I didn’t want to pull anything out in the lightroom! with a correctly exposed frame, everything was enough !, like the S5 pro fuja, and the In-Camera Jeep in +400 MODE did not give ANY ADVANTAGES in the DYNAMIC RANGE, EVEN IF THE OTHERS IN LIGHTUM I DO NOT HAVE ANYWHERE.

        • Pokemon

          “My conclusion: No one has any advantages. Heel is highly overrated ”
          This is your conclusion. And I am happy for you.
          Each photographer has his own conclusion and opinion.
          I use Hyper Utility V3.
          “As well as those that I developed in lightroom, bringing everything to the same white balance, and some slightly corrected the exposure”
          What for? What is a single white balance? You need to compare the source, without corrections.
          As I show - I overtake RAF in 16-bit Tiff, in Hyper Utility settings everywhere I change the speed for quality in the "development" of RAVs with Fuji. Permeation / Protroyka has a base ISO 100.
          These cameras are not as bad as Sigma on Foveon from increasing ISO relative to the baseline, but still ... it is necessary to compare in the native minimum standard for the camera.
          To get a good quality photo with S5Pro, you need to set DD 400% forcibly for S5Pro, for S3Pro - Wide2, otherwise the test is about nothing.
          If the purpose of the test is “all the crops are the same,” then God help. I still urge you to thoughtfully smoke the manual for each camera for fine-tuning the cameras. Of course, everyone is right in their own way. But I have a lot of free-owned cameras and I can say that the “oldies” require more attention and thoughtful adjustment than new cameras.
          Protroyka and Propyatka have three conditional drawbacks in 2019: age, and possibly the real resolution of the matrices. The third drawback is the openness of the system. You can buy a barely live camera at a flea market, put on 28-80 / 3.5-5.6, not understand the nuances of the camera and tell everyone that “the king is naked”. I don't blame anyone, but in my opinion, in good sunny weather, both Protroyka and Propyatka can give a result that surpasses some FF in the hands of a thoughtful photographer. And this result does not need to be achieved - colors, shadows and midtones do not make you want to climb in and rule: carrots / magenta / fucking greens / colors of child's surprise / cyanosis. A good result is easier to get.
          The difference between the preset DD 100-400% is easy to see in real time in the native developer HU V3. It shows perfectly the difference between DD and its absence by 100%. It is so obvious that it beats up to set Auto or 100%.

          • @ f_e_d_2

            SO I DID NOT RULE ANYTHING, WHITE BALANCE IS NOT AN INDICATOR THAT ANY CAMERA DOESN'T LIKE ANYTHING BECAUSE OF ITS ERROR

            • Pokemon

              I do not recommend bringing all pictures to one conditional BB - this is the average temperature in the Hospital. The deputy eats marbled beef, and the proletarian eats rotten cabbage with infusions. Average result - stuffed cabbage (s?).

              • Anonymous

                Damn, I just ate cabbage rolls with doshirak)))))))))

            • @ f_e_d_2

              You have the opportunity to develop the file from the file in the native utility, and the rest in another and compare. According to my subjective estimates, +400 in a jeep from the camera does not give advantages over the manifestation of this Rav in Lightroom (even without drawing out shadows and lights there) The main goal of the test was color rendering, and DD, I am satisfied with all the cameras, in the same Nikons , starting from D5100 and higher - DD is already higher than that of Propyatka! and on any utility and with less file weight. I'm more interested in Color rendition, and I didn't notice anything special in it! Only if you start throwing lenses, then it's better to start with 85 / 1.4 :)

              • Pokemon

                Hyper Utility can be downloaded and installed on a computer with Windows 7-8.1, they say it even works on 10-ke. On 64-bit Windows also works.
                It used to be paid. Now, alas, you have to install its pirated version.
                I was recommended by Silkypix. It seems like he understands RAF well and accurately interprets them. It seems, but not that. He later scored and stayed on Hyper Utility.
                Almost completely satisfied. Yes, she is not very friendly and requires spending time on her. But it allows you to squeeze more.
                With its help, I overtake RAF into a 16-bit Tiff and there were only a few frames (from Progress), where I wanted to fix something. You look at the others (especially from Pripyatka) and understand that there is nothing and nothing to rule.
                I am not a supporter of Fuji matrices, but just try before making a couple of frames from a camera or lens to study the manual and recommendations of other owners on photo forums on them.

          • Pokemon

            Sorry for "mnogobukof". Haters will come out now, but I can say that I honestly evaluate what I have (unlike those mmm “theorists” who have not seen, but know everything) and if she is shit, then I say that shit.
            The Fujevsky CCD, and Nikonovsky, too, can give a more pleasing to the eye (no matter how accurate), but the result. A result that sells itself and at the same time does not have to try especially (head and hands in the right place, a good fast lens and knowledge of the imperfections of the camera and all).
            With Foveon you can get a more surprising result than on S3Pro or S5Pro.
            But this requires an effort. Fujik's CCD requires more understanding of the basics of photography, experience and good taste - and you don't have to sit for hours stifling greenery in hundreds of photos - it will be a good color.

            • @ f_e_d_2

              No one says greens are bad. I even like it, though not when everything is green in the forest, and people in green jackets :), but S2pro in LIGHTUM shows that the balance is in green, so why not align it if the artist seems to be so better?

          • Kidney

            I will subscribe to every word, I myself have gone from full-frame greenish-carrot Nikons to Fujik 3ki ... Dear Pokemon, with your experience, share your opinion on what optics Fuddiki can use?

          • Vitaly Pinchuk

            By developing 16-bit TIFF you lose EXIF, how do you restore it for jpeg?

        • Anonymous

          Lightroom destroyed the color: deep green - it became ordinary, simple ...
          It's blasphemy to chase a beautiful color ... and then destroy it with a bullshit converter.
          so yes, the color of the hedge is thicker, but the asphalt is blue - the BB needs to be tightened.

  • @ f_e_d_2

    Test 2: More interesting :) There is no ghost in it, but there is S2pro and 5 more Nikons!
    The purpose of the test is to identify the difference in color rendering of CCD and CMOS matrices.
    One lens 18-55 was used, in the middle position 34-35 mm
    No color correction, just bringing under a single white balance and slightly exposure, and I don’t remember which file was equal, but it doesn’t matter.
    all ISO 200, SRGB profile, and resize up to 6 megapixels.
    In the RAW link and my Jpeg developed:

    https://yadi.sk/d/-YkRtj8Pzcpf-g

    My Conclusions: With a moderate ISO and Photo Size, as in the test (No one has any advantages, especially for such important tasks as Instagram)
    It is only noticeable that SSD matrices have a slightly different Green. By the way, with the camera profiles that are registered in the RAW files, the color rendition of the Green Sofa turned out to be more correct in CMOS matrices, BUT this is just a convention, when at different times, different engineers, possibly making improvements, wrote in their own way “PRESETS ”For Rav-files, which Lightroom reads as“ Starting point ”. I didn't do any color correction! And I can barely move any color sliders. Moreover, there is also a correction of the camera profile for all three primary colors, which was not done in vain! and the possibilities in this correction are so great!

    Even Fuji S2pro, with its quite pleasant greenery, did not concede anything, and greenery is just a setting of the in-camera white balance! Well, just like that, the Fujists saw him in 2002, if you want to rule, you want to, no :)

    • @ f_e_d_2

      I forgot to add that I did a similar test in the dark, in manual mode, for a long shutter speed of 15 seconds, there was a luminous garland in the frame. The results were similar!

  • Paul

    Hello. I bought S3 yesterday, after S-1 it is some kind of spaceship, I will take a long time to figure it out, probably ... The autofocus light does not work. Maybe it turns on somewhere? In principle, he focuses well without her, but still ...

    • Michael

      It usually turns on, see the instructions

  • Paul

    I figured it out with the backlight, but the camera stopped saving the photo to the memory card. When shooting, it shows the photo, but does not save it; when viewing it, it writes no image. Moreover, both on XD and CF. So it goes…

  • R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№

    Hello. s3 pro / thin vertical stripe in the picture occupying somewhere 6/8 in height not reaching the top edge. Depending on the tonality of the image, the color of the stripe is white or magenta. Is it possible to remap, or something else to create? the latest firmware is installed. maybe someone will prompt you to enter the engineering menu. Thanks to Arkady for the review.

  • Anton

    Vitaly, this is Khan's matrix, you won't do anything with it.

  • Vladimir

    Hello everyone, where does the shutter come from? Is there information who made the replacement? If you share I will be grateful. Thank you.

    • Pokemon

      Film Nikon F80 / N80 is suitable as a donor.
      However, as those who repair old Fuji say (and their owners in the photo_ru), the shutter on Protroyka runs long enough with careful operation. The mirror lifting mechanism breaks down much earlier.

      • Vladimir

        Pokemon, and you had the same as me! ERR on top, not flashing. I looked through the instructions, they write that there are problems with the power supply. I first sinned at the shutter.
        As a result, I rummaged through a bunch of information, they write that the fuse may break. I disassembled, looked with my eyes, all 9 fuses are outwardly alive, there is no tester at hand.
        How did you solve your issue with ERR?

        • Pokemon

          You do not.
          Today I paid for another Protroyka.
          Maybe the batteries are bad, yahz.

  • Oleg

    People, please send the firmware 2.12 for S3 Pro to sitereserv [woof] mail.ru - I can't find a working link. If there is 2.16, then her too.

  • Pokemon

    A visual comparison of the F1, F2, wide dr modes: http://dativ.at/s3/
    The author writes that contrast is reduced in Wide2 Dynamic range, but this can be easily corrected in the camera settings.

  • Pokemon

    Rare S3Pro blue label (aka S3Pro 256)
    https://yablor.ru/blogs/redkaya-kamera-fujifilm-s3-pro-blue/4618863
    It looks like we managed to pay just this the other day.

    • Pokemon

      S3Pro Blue label came - the difference is really in the blue nameplate and it feels like it works a little faster.
      In terms of working with a flash drive.
      Doden wedges were also installed on the camera.

  • BB

    The typo 'was applied to the production of a full-size camera.' - still 'full frame'

  • shufryga

    If the camera has AA batteries or for a flash, you can use Ni-Zn 1.6 v. I tried it on a flash, the work is excellent. You just need a special exercise, the usual one does not fit.

  • Algofol

    By 2021 standards, the camera shoots like a mobile phone.

  • Salavat

    So I bought the S3 Pro carcass yesterday, gave ten mowers in the handlebars. I prepared two Helios 44-1, one with an adapter without a lens, and the second, 44M - 4 with a lens, screwed Helios 81H onto the carcass and was going to “feel the difference” today, since the autumn is beautiful outside the window. The dry forest, however, almost without rain, the foliage will melt. The titmouse returned from the forest yesterday, they already require fat out of habit))).

    • Seladir

      Will you show the photos?

  • Vladimir

    Hello Arkady! How can I see the mileage of this unit? Is it possible through the menu, like the S5 Pro?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      In any way, I don't even remember if the service allows you to find out.

  • Dmitry Kostin

    Arkady, how can I send you pictures of S3Pro blue edition?

  • Vadim

    I want to ask knowledgeable people: what adapter does Alexander Gvozd use for his Helios-44M to this camera ??? A simple adapter from 42m to F mount? Will the lens then focus at infinity or only close? And in the photos presented here, were macro rings used? Painfully, his photographs look like a macro.

    • B. R. P.

      Firstly, there are certainly knowledgeable people here, but those who personally know Alexander are unlikely. Therefore, we can only assume that it has a lensless adapter and, possibly, a thin macro ring, based on the scale of the photos presented, which are really macro. With such an adapter, the lens will not focus at infinity, of course, + \\ - 1,5 m - no further.

    • Dmitry Kostin

      At flea markets you can find Helios converted to Nikon F (44M-6 and 44M-7), which can focus on infinity.
      They cost a little more than the unmodified ones.

      • B. R. P.

        Well, these are the most expensive of the family. The last time I saw a converted 44M at a flea market (not the Internet), it was 1,5-2 times more expensive. Although, the alteration there is not so difficult.

  • Vadim

    Thanks, got it. There is an adapter for the M42 thread on the F bayonet on ebay, there is a glass that allows you to focus in manual mode to infinity. It is interesting whether such an adapter worsens the optical properties of the lens or not. At a minimum, I think the aperture gets darker by one or two stops.

  • Danil

    When converting to TIFF via Hyper-Utility HS-V3 with the recommended settings from Arcady, several hot pixels appear in the same places when switching in the “Image Conversion” section from “Super High Quality Image Conversion” to “High Speed ​​Conversion” hot pixels in the exported file disappear. When viewing the source file in Hyper-Utility HS-V3, the dead pixels are also not visible. Has anyone faced the same situation?

  • Mikhail Tomsky

    The Slavs also had their own S3 Pro! ...)

    • B. R. P.

      I don't notice anything in common with the S3 Pro.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      yes, yes, and there are also “their own” planars, biotars, sonnars, etc.

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