According provided by Nikon D5300 camera (body) many thanks to Andrei Chernikh.
Nikon D5300 review
The camera was introduced on 07.11.2012/XNUMX/XNUMX Nikon D5200 and a year later, on 17.10.2013/5300/XNUMX, its update was released - Nikon DXNUMX. The cameras turned out to be very similar, but still, if you dig a little in their parameters, you can find many significant differences.
Nikon D5200 and D5300 use different matrices from different manufacturers: on board the Nikon D5300 has a Sony IMX193 sensor (proof link). Nikon D5200 uses the same Toshiba TOS-5105 HEZ1 sensor (proof link 1, proof link 2) A complete list of sensors used on all Nikon central control centers can be viewed here. In addition, the Nikon D5300 missing OLPF filter (proof link), which makes it easier to achieve a sharp, detailed image (and the appearance of moiré due to the absence of such a filter no longer worries anyone). I rummaged through all the instructions for Nikon D5300 and did not find any mention of the lack of a low-pass filter there (proof link).
Now I am seeing a tendency to remove the OLPF filter in modern cameras with a huge amount megapixels. Nikon D800E no longer has such a filter, D810, D7100 и Nikon D3300.
Likely Nikon D3300 uses the exact same sensor as the Nikon D5300. This is indirectly indicated by the main characteristics of their matrices (proof link 1, proof link 2, proof link 3) And it’s very strange that on the official page с Nikon D3300 nothing is said about the fact that the camera also lacks an OLPF filter. This is most likely done to make users feel a more serious difference between the D5300 and D3300. But born in the USSR you won’t be so easy!
Swivel display Nikon D5300
Nikon D5300, D5200, D3300, D7100, D7200 create pictures of the same maximum size of 6000 x 4000 pixels, which equals exactly 24 MP. In the characteristics they often write that the cameras have 24.1 (24.71) or 24.2 (24.78) MP, the difference of 100-200 thousand pixels is associated with the special structure of the pixels and sub-pixels of the sensor (details here).
Battery compartment and memory card slot on the Nikon D5300
Due to the new matrix, Nikon D5300 can use the range ISO 100 to 12.800 units and expand it to the value of Hi1 (equivalent to 25.600). In the same time Nikon D5200 uses ISO from 100 to 6400 units and expand it to a Hi2 value (equivalent to 25.600). Nikon D5300 has become first camera Nikon DX, which can use real ISO 12.800 (not advanced 'hi' modes). For this indicator, the D5300 and D3300 overtake the 'older' model Nikon D7100. There are also serious suspicions that Nikon D7100 uses the same sensor as Nikon D5300, but due to the older processor it cannot use ISO 12.800. It's funny, but all three cameras - D5100, D5200The D5300 uses a maximum ISO threshold of 25.600 and still cannot jump over it.
Online many with CAPS LOCK pressed say that the noise level in the pictures taken with the Nikon D5300 is several times less than the noise level of cameras of previous generations. In any case, I want to note that with the noise reduction functions turned on, when shooting in JPEG, a really good result is obtained, and the Nikon D5300 is one of the quietest cropped cameras of all time (until some D5400 is released). At the same time, I can bet that at ISO up to 3200 units, no one difference with D5200 won't notice :). At ISO, starting at about 9000, the image is filled with a red veil. This is a rather specific noise, which often gives a picture a warm tint, but at the same time 'eats up' the color, and the included 'noise reduction' removes details. I observed the exact same nature of the noise in the model Nikon D3300. At the same time, on my ancient Nikon D700 the color at ISO 25.600 just 'fades out', but does not have an additional color cast.
Nikon D5300 with lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Nikon D5300 has a built-in wi-fi module. If you connect your tablet or smartphone using Nikon WirelessMobileUtility, you can view the captured photos and videos, and copy them to your mobile device. And, of course, you can control the camera remotely - this is a useful function, you can think of many examples of its use.
I installed Nikon WirelessMobileUtility (WMU) on my Android phone using PlayMarket app service without any problems. To connect a mobile device to the camera, it is enough to turn on wi-fi on the camera, and on the mobile device, in the wi-fi connections menu, select the Nikon D5300 access point. The interface of the program is very simple, only one problem - there is no Russian language. When displaying an image in Live View mode, the picture slows down a little, and it's also a pity that the remote control only supports focus point selection and shutter release - the camera controls all other parameters by itself (and this does not depend on the selected mode on the camera control dial). I still could not get the camera to shoot video using WMU (even with the 'Remote control' -> 'Remote shutter release' -> 'Movie' option selected). Also, the application does not allow you to view an already shot video on a mobile device, you can download it and only then view it. When downloading a video, WMU does not understand that it is a video and offers 'Download current picture'. The fact that the thumbnail contains a video can only be guessed by the 'mov' icon. Perhaps WMU for iOS is better at thinking.
One acquaintance told how he used the remote control function of the camera using Wi-Fi. He was on vacation somewhere on the ocean, crowds of crabs crawled out onto the shore, but people constantly shied away and hid back in the water. He mounted the camera on a tripod, waited for the crabs to get out of the water and remotely shot many interesting shots of marine animals :)
When viewing photos on the camera, you can note those photos that will be automatically transferred to the smartphone the next time you connect via wi-fi.
As one sage said: World, Labor, Wifi.
A slight difference in the controls
Externally, the D5300 has a slightly different design. On the D5300, the shooting mode button (the button sets continuous shooting, remote control or interval shooting) is now located near the lens mount button, and in that place is now the GPS receiver. All other controls are exactly the same as on the D5200.
Minor cosmetic updates in the design. Find 10 differences.
The new camera uses an Expeed 4 image processor, while the D5200 uses Nikon Expeed 3. It's funny that Expeed 3 also works on Nikon D4, and Expeed 4 on D4s. It was possible with a clear conscience not to create the Nikon D5300, but to call the new camera D5200s :).
But here's the bad luck - the D5300, like the D5200, can shoot at a maximum speed of 5 fps, but when using the RAW (RAW + JPEG) format with 14-bit color depth, the Nikon D5300 drops to 4 fps. The difference between 4 and 5 frames is immediately noticeable during real shooting. Why was it necessary to install a new generation processor that can not cope with such a volume of data? Nikon D5200 shot without problems with the same 14-bit color depth in RAW format at 5 fps. At the same time, in the Nikon D5200 RAW files were always recorded with 14-bit color depth, and in order to realize 5 fps in the Nikon D5300, it was necessary to add the ability to set 12-bit or 14-bit color depth in the menu. Turns out that the new camera is slower than the old. Of course, there is no difference when shooting in JPEG, but still, I have already written more than once that Nikon cannot solve the problem of shooting in RAW format with 14-bit color depth. Remember the legendary Nikon D300 и D300sthat went down to level Nikon D40, and began to shoot at a speed of 2.5 frames per second, and also Nikon D7100, which even in 1.3x mode resets the shooting speed when using 14-bit color depth.
I want to criticize the camera’s features in Live View a little more. I tried to make a video for my note 'interesting property of the aperture on the Nikon CZK' and in Live View mode, when I enlarged the selected image area for fine-tuning the focus, I came across that the camera is very (very, very, very!) very slow with the image output. For shooting, I used Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical and ISO about 4000-5000. In any case, the camera processor does not cope with the tasks. I saw the exact same problem on the Nikon D3300.
Nikon D5300 with lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
If you disable features such as' Aut. distortion control ',' Active D-Lighting ',' Under. Noise for long. Exposure. ',' Under. Noise for high. ISO 'then in frame buffer fits:
- 7 frames in RAW 12bit format
- 5 frames in RAW 14bit format
- 12 frames in JPEG format
- 6 frames in RAW 12bit + JPEG L Fine format
- 5 frames in RAW 14bit + JPEG L Fine format
If you enable all these functions, then it is placed in the buffer:
- 4-5 frames in RAW 12bit format
- 2-3 frames in RAW 14bit format
- 7-8 frames in JPEG format
- 4-5 frames in RAW 12bit + JPEG L Fine format
- 2-3 frames in RAW 14bit + JPEG L Fine format
The number of frames in the buffer is practically no different from the Nikon D5200.
Nikon D5300 with lens Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII)
The viewfinder has slightly increased, the Nikon D5300 has a magnification of 0.82x, the D5200 - 0.79x. If I did not know about this difference, I would never visually notice it.
In addition, video has improved: Nikon D5200 can shoot at maximum quality of 1920 x 1080 60i / 50i, D5300 can shoot at 1920 x 1080 60p / 50p (progressive). In modes 1280 X 720 and 640 X 424, you can select the same quality for both cameras. Personally, I don't care about video at all, and it's unlikely that an ordinary amateur camera user will notice improvements from 60i to 60p (I'm already silent about the theoretical understanding of the difference). But for advanced fans to shoot a high-quality video, and even then process it, 60p will be just right :). I want to note that Nikon D5300 does not make a slight crop at the beginning of video recording, as was the case with Nikon D5200.
Nikon D5300 uses new 3.2 inch display 1.036.800 pixels (720 pixels wide x 480 pixels high x 3 RGB sub-pixels), while the Nikon D5200 uses a 3-inch at 921.600 (640 x 480 x 3). I immediately felt the difference in the size of the display, although the numbers 3 and 3.2 inches differ slightly. As a result, when viewing thumbnail images, the D5300 displays 80 thumbnails and 72 thumbnails on the D5200 display. The new display has proportions 3: 2 (like the pictures from the camera) and when viewing black stripes do not form at the edges, as was the case with the Nikon D5200 (and many other cameras).
All the time while I had a camera, it was bad weather outside, and I never got to the studio, so, alas, there were not many test frames. Here link to the archive with the originals - 399 MB, 15 photos in .NEF format (RAW) When shooting, the lens was used Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical с protective light filter Hoya HMC UV (c) 72mm.
UPDATE 1
Examples of photos on HELIOS-44M 2/58 and camera Nikon D5300 with readers of Radozhiva shared by photographer Vladlena Lapshina:
Nikon D5300 is even a little lighter than its predecessor. The D5300 weighs 530 grams versus 550 on the Nikon D5200. You won’t feel the difference in any way. Usually Nikon D5300 sell with a lens Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical, and D5200 with Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G VR AF-S DX Nikkor, although the camera equipment can be anything. The camera also uses the new EN-EL14a battery, which helps to get more frames on a single charge than the EN-EL14 used in the Nikon D5200.
Nikon D5300 with lens Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
Of course, in addition to the wi-fi module, a GPS receiver was installed in the camera. Photos for which the shooting location was obtained have a satellite icon.
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Nikon D5300 is the best amateur camera from Nikon right now (not to be confused with advanced amateur cameras like Nikon D7100) at the time of this writing. The camera has great potential! You just need to take and shoot. On the other hand, I am an adherent of the idea that it is better to get an older camera, for example, Nikon D5100but with a better lens, such as Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical. Who believes that wi-fi, GPS, the absence of a low-pass filter on the heap with ISO 12.800 and 39-point focus system help in achieving good shots, he will definitely look at the Nikon D5300 :).
When choosing a Nikon SLR camera and a lens for it, I advise you to look in the 'Which Nikon camera to choose?'.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello! Please help me figure it out. I am a beginner photographer, I want to shoot everything! Landscape, portrait, macro, night shooting, subject, architecture. I chose a nicon d5300 camera. What lenses to take to it? Budget is limited. Options:
1) Nikon Nikkor AF 50 mm f-1,8 D OR Nikon Nikkor AF 18-55 lens with Nikon Nikkor AF-S DX VR 55-200mm f4-5,6 G IF ED.
2) Nikon Nikkor AF-S DX 18-105mm f 3,5-5,6 G ED VR OR Nikon 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR WITH BURN
3) Sigma 28-300mm f 3,5-6,3 DG macro NIKON WITH BURN.
Or, in another way, they somehow "tweak")))
And what else at a minimum you need to buy? Tripod, flash, filters?
Thank you.
Take the whale. 18-105 or 18-140 is suitable.
And everything else - when you learn and figure it out.
Thank you!
And here's another question: is there a 5300 camera with a total number of 14,8 million pixels (effective - 14,2), a matrix size of 23.0 x 15.5 mm? Date of announcement 2010-08-19. Sales start date 2010-09-15
The fact is that I found two options in the store, the second - 24.78 million pixels, matrix: 23.5 x 15.6 mm, cards: SD, RAW support, Wi-Fi, shooting speed: 5 fps, video resolution up to 1920 × 1080 , 480 g (as in the article). But the first one has an OFFICIAL NIKONOVSKAYA WARRANTY and it costs 50 dollars less. It happens?)))
Not quite as you described, but it does. This camera should only be called Nikon D3100.
Thank you))), then they have a typo)
Recently I bought myself a Nikon d5300. Before that I used other budget DSLRs from this brand. In principle, there were enough of them for my photo tasks, but ... for complete ease of use, I lacked a rotary display. Since Nikon does not have a very large choice with this function, he settled on this model. There was also a variant of the d5500 (with a touchscreen display), but ... this model was released relatively recently and its price, so far, is traditionally somewhat overpriced. The d5300 was released the year before last, and today its price has dropped to the real one. In general, the camera is pretty good (in its price segment). It has its pluses, its minuses ... Like all other models. The rotating display is primarily important for those who like to take photos from non-standard angles. Well, or for those who like to shoot video with a camera. The advantages of a rotatable display over a non-rotatable one when filming with a DSLR do not cause even the slightest doubt.
Please tell me, I have D5300 + 18-105, I noticed a similar misfortune on my friend D3200:
When I try to photograph the moon, starry sky, etc. - I set the manual or semi-manual mode, everything is as it should be, but the camera crawls with focus for a long time and writes "TOO DARK OBJECT!"
So far, I managed to overcome it only by shooting in Live View, which is very inconvenient.
What to do?
I am writing and thought: maybe it was necessary to switch the lens in Manual Focus? and to infinity ...
If possible, describe in more detail what, why and how to do it.
Thank you!
focus handles.
LiveView + auto or manual focus.
Many modern AF lenses have a 'overtravel' beyond infinity, so if you twist the focus 'all the way' the subject will be out of focus.
Once again, I didn’t fully understand everything, I will describe it in more detail so that I can be corrected if necessary.
I will compare it with my old Canon A610 soap box (there are MF, handbrakes, semi-handcuffs, software feature “safe shift”;))
When I want to take a night shot with the A610, I use any mode: M, Tv, Av, most often Av. I set ISO = 50 and the required shutter speed at the lightest aperture.
There are no problems, the fotik shoots as expected ... I DO NOT turn on the manual focus (though there KF = 4,85 and grip until the moon)
When I want to take a night shot on the D5300, I try to set any mode in the same way: P, S, M, A; most often A, I set ISO = 100 or higher (up to 5000) and the required shutter speed, usually at the lightest aperture.
I’m not switching anything on the lens.
Fotik crawls with focus for a long time, after which he says "TOO DARK OBJECT!" and the trigger is simply not pressed ...
Even if I correctly set all the parameters for the exposure of the frame.
There are such possibilities:
There are some settings in the fotik menu, so I smoke the instructions:
- in the "night vision" mode, it is possible to shoot BW with autofocus only in LW;
- you can switch autofocus from default “AF-A” to “MF” $
- if the fotik could not focus and the shutter release was blocked, I can focus on another object located at the same distance (as the moon);)) frame and press;
- the lens 18-105 has a switch “A” - “M”.
Total:
1) or braking live view
2) or manual focus?
The problem is that I have a vision of about minus 2 diopters and I sharpened and inserted a glass of -2,5 lenses in the viewfinder to see sharply at least the mode numbers with a poor adjustment of the viewfinder sharpness.
And it's already difficult for me to focus EXACTLY with the pens ...
Actually questions:
1. Why can't I set the aperture 9-13 (at which the depth of field will be like that of my soap dish at 2,8-4,1) and with the same correct exposure settings, take a shot with sharpness “from here to the moon ”? Why a soap dish can, but not a DSLR?
2. If only MF is available to me - how should I switch to it, through the camera menu or through the lens switch, and why? What are the differences?
The camera locks the shutter as it cannot focus. Set the lens to M mode, focus and shoot.
Why the camera in mode A does not allow you to close the diaphragm, I don’t know. In this mode, she is required to do this.
The camera allows you to close the diaphragm.
With this closed aperture and the same depth of field as the soap dish, the soap dish takes a sharp shot, and the DSLR “cannot focus” ...
it may not “be able to focus”, but in amateur DSLRs, the automation (at certain excessive values of the parameters) sees that the frame simply will not work (ie it will be dark) and does not allow taking a picture. most likely with your apertures, and a maximum shutter speed of 30 seconds, the camera realized that the picture will not work. and refuses to fire.
Most likely, you have “focus priority” in the settings (on the D5100 it is “a1”) - in this case, if the camera is not focused, it will not let you release the shutter. - switch to trigger priority.
Use LiveView, or in another way autofocus on a distant object (the same lights, or windows), switch the lens to manual mode (do not touch the focus ring), shoot.
That's it!
I was hoping for something similar ...
Do not tell me, where is the 5100 in the menu?
Well I wrote, for 5100 this is the 'a1' item in the user settings menu (actually - the first item of autofocus settings)
One reason to buy a NIKON D5300
The 5300's swivel display won't help here - in this picture, 2 out of 3 photographers are definitely trying to use the viewfinder. Accordingly, only the rotary viewfinder will help, which is not available on the 5300. Using the rotary display 5300 you can work only in life-view mode, and as far as I understand, in this mode the 5300 does not work well.
Thanks for the comment! I certainly know the difference between a rotatable display and an “angled viewfinder”. Alas, there is still no ideal solution in this area. Each option has its own pros and cons. In any case, having a “rotating display” in the camera is better than not having one ... Again, a lot depends on the particular photographer and his shooting style. For some this option is important, for others it is not. A matter of taste, as they say. Yes, indeed, it is not very efficient to work in the live-view mode if you need to shoot dynamic scenes. Sometimes, taking pictures “from the floor,” with the display turned at an angle, I act like this: 1) I hold the device with both hands. Not including "live-view", in the usual shooting mode, I take a picture. The captured image is immediately displayed on the screen. If necessary, I raise or lower the camera slightly to correct the composition, and take the following shots. It turns out much faster than with live-view. 2) Again, I shoot normally, holding the camera with the display rotated over my head or near the ground, but this time with one hand. And with the other hand I do the descent with the help of the remote control. If the frame does not suit you, you can immediately correct the position of the camera. Usually from 3-4 takes there will always be one perfectly acceptable
well, if you set focus to hyperfocal, then it’s understandable. And what if accurate focusing is necessary. And your manipulations are unlikely to take less time than is necessary to focus on live view
Live-view is bad only when the sun is blinding. In all other cases, only he gives comfort to working with the camera. Everything else is perversion and sadomasochism. Why should you stare through the peephole when you have a big picture in front of you, such as it will be later in the photo !? At one time, photographers focused on rags, using large wooden camera boxes. But now few people will be forced to give up the convenience and all the huge advantages of Live View. The peephole may soon die out altogether, like an anachronism. ... ...
This is probably a matter of habit. In addition to the sun, I counted three more advantages of OVI: fast phase focus, battery saving, stable position (like a shooter) for longer exposures. One of the obvious advantages of live view is the ability to control and promptly correct the exposure.
in any of these cases, a rotary display would be more than enough.
The D5300 is by far the best budget DSLR I've ever had in my hands. With its light weight and size, the camera captures images that are in no way inferior to the D7100 or the full-frame D610, even in low light at high ISOs, while the latter costs twice as much.
Hello ! I read your reviews on nikon 5300 and nikon 7100 and completely agree with you. Now I want to buy a telephoto (the prices are quite high. After all, I bought Nikon 5300) and there will probably be a right decision to sell and buy Nikon 7100. so that in the future it would be possible to buy optics more affordable? I would like to hear your opinion. I photograph purely for myself . I wish you all the best. Good luck !!!
If you don’t bother with old Nikon lenses (and you still need to find them) or manual ones, then it’s easier to sit at 5300,
Hello! Thanks for the answer . As a professional, I think that the Nikon 5300 is also not a bad model.
What does it mean not a bad model?
Yes, it's just a great camera! This is almost 7100 in the case of 5100.
This is a great model. And there are a number of good televisions at affordable prices. Starting from two versions 55-200vr and ending with 70-300vr and Tamronovsky 70-300vs. The latter can be used for 17-20 thousand in excellent condition.
Tell me, is this camera suitable for portrait shooting?
Yes
And which does not fit, you can ask
for portraits ...
a birdie at the Physicotechnical Institute - it's not even funny
Strange, but my buffer fits in just 4 frames in RAW, regardless of the settings. But when shooting in JPG, I held down the shutter button and the camera clicked for 6 seconds at a pretty high speed and clicked still, but only I released the button.
Nikon D5300 can be bought for only $ 530! Here: http://goo.gl/1jZLQM
Is it worth it to switch from this camera to the Canon 5d mark 1 with a view to further growth? Or is it worth considering the Nikon D7100?
With the 7100, you won’t gain anything but more convenient operation. It makes no sense to switch to a camera with the same matrix, especially since the 5300 is already a wonderful camera. If you grow, then already at full-frame 610 is the cheapest. Well, if the crop, then five hundred.
Thanks for warning. I would like a full frame with a large viewfinder. I think to take the old models of Canon 5d or Nikon D700. I’m not for reporting, so I am more inclined to the first option.
It is worth switching to d810, you can find d800 inexpensively. Why switch from crop to crop is unclear.
I, as the owner of the d5300 and d800, assure you. I bought the second one (5300) for the video, in fact, the video is so-so for 800 video, which is strange.
Amazing It turned out that the 5300 removes quite well.
Hello!
Advise me the teapot flash for this camera. I use it with NIKON AF-S 55-300 mm f / 4.5-5.6 G ED VR
Thank you.
How the kettle will go for example Nikon SB-700 more than!
Help me figure out the D5300 video settings. I am interested in the frame rate and resolution, I found such modes: 1920x1080p 24,25,30,50,60 frames, 1280x720 50 and 60 frames, 640x424 25,30 frames. Is there a mode of 1280x720 24, 25, 30 frames? 640x424 50, 60 frames?
Hello everyone! They offer d5300 with 78000 mileage at an affordable price, is it worth taking. I am an amateur, I rent mainly my family.
Hello ! I have Nikon 5300. I bought a new one. A good, not a bad device. but the lenses to it are quite expensive. so, as the device does not have a screwdriver (focusing motor) and you have to buy all lenses with a focusing motor. which is quite expensive. I recommend buying Canon, but you need to think carefully and weigh for the money and buy a new camera.
why such a non-motorized one can be purchased on an amateur crop from zooms? and so that the wide angle is
If only something from the old film, but there is no chip there, again a bummer.
Fixes and telezuma only get cheaper. Station wagons with crop already with motors. And the amateur fixes with autofocus, the Chinese are already doing.
but old televisions have no stub. therefore, the lack of a screwdriver is a drawback only with already existing optics
Not worth it. The 5300 has a guaranteed shutter release of 50000. Since the 5300 was introduced just 4 years ago. So the previous owner in about 3 years chopped up 75000, i.e. 25000 a year. I drove this device both in the tail and in the mane. I would not take it.
Arkady talked about 100-150 thousand "guaranteed resource" for amateur cameras.
But at 78 thousand, this is clearly complete wear and tear, when each next frame may be the last
In short, don't take it. And the lover needs a screwdriver, tk. It's hard to buy a lens for a hobby for 30-40 thousand.
What currency is it in? If rubles or hryvnia, what is this hobby? Above we have already discussed the benefits of a screwdriver on a crop. It turned out to be beneficial mainly only in telezums, but a 24MP telezoom without a stub is already a problem.
This is in rubles. Well, how much are motor 17-55 / 2,8, 70-200 / 2,8, 85 / 1,8, etc., even heavily used? I also underestimated the cost. Buying non-motorized ones allows you to purchase images that are similar in quality, but significantly cheaper. And this is important precisely for the amateur, because there can be no question of any recoupment. And about the stub: "... it looks like you are eating too much, in the sense of being too hungry."
Something does not fit. Write about lovers, but the lenses you list are not amateur.
Don't you think that you eat too much? These are not amateur lenses, like to ride on a sled, love them and drag uphill. And lovers buy such manual ones, by the way they will rarely be used.
That is, if you are an amateur, then you are 18-55 and 55-200, and sit not buzzing?
No, but if there are such requests for quality, then let the amateur be ready to fork out for “non-amateur” lenses and a camera. And then a camera from one price category is being discussed, but you want lenses from another.
Quite a normal category. The cost of the camera is usually comparable to the cost of the corresponding lens.
Therefore, the 7th series, since Nikon clamped the screwdriver on the 3rd and 5th series.
if 55-200 does not suit the crop, then only the full frame will help
4,5-6 kilo rubles worth used 55-200VR
In general, they sell a lot of televisions, because First they buy, and then they think whether it is needed :)
I agree. He sold it himself, because he was lying idle. Although the lens caught a good one.
Guys, I think for a long time, I don’t know what to switch to, Canon d700 or Nikon 5300
Now there is an old Sonya and I want something new, the price does not vary very much in Moscow stores 26 for ken and 30 for nick
deducted that nicknames lenses (quality) are better and less defective, pricing (slightly more expensive than Kanov lenses% 10-15)
that you advise me to choose all the same ..
most often I use the camera on trips, people to take pictures, evening pictures, nature in general, i.e. a very diverse shooting ..
I’m shooting a video, but an order of magnitude less often (even I would rarely say) it’s to that it’s not a very significant plus in 700d for me
thank you
Hello ! KENON lenses are much cheaper!
well yes)
uh, that is, "oh well!"
something suspiciously cheap!
in Moscow time with 18-55 whales and a warranty from the store for 2 years 30k from the manufacturer 36k (
this is for nikon)
How much does a canon have for a crop 35 / 1,8, sorry, f / 2,0?
Canon EF 35mm f / 2 IS USM4.5
34 950 rub.
You do not confuse crop with a full frame and an ultrasonic motor, please, it is similar and decently worth it. Here, more needs to be compared with 40mm kenon, but loses in aperture ratio, but it will not be lost when switching to a full frame costs $ 160, 50mm 1.8STM costs $ 125. The lens that you called belong to a series of fast fixes: 24,28, 35, 85 mm with an ultrasonic motor and the price for them is around 400-500 dollars. I want 24mm myself
I do not confuse, but a 35mm crop should be fast.
If aperture is important, then nikon 35 \ 1.8.
but Nikon has no pancakes
but 7 troubles one answer is 18-55 folding which is praised
Good evening. In general, I became the owner of this camera, in general, yes, the price / quality ratio. I took a used one, a spot on the top or something similar was found in the video detector from the drawbacks, there is no such thing in the photo, the picture does not change without a lens.
Faced with mirrors for the first time, I’m not going to climb anywhere yet))
Dirt on the viewfinder screen. Often, when blown off from the matrix, it flies onto the focusing screen. If you do not know how to do it yourself it is better not to clean - leave it as it is, it will not interfere with work.
Thanks. In general, what does the cleaning procedure look like? Is there enough blowing? Or contact cleaning?
Does it bother you? If tolerant, leave it. Upon contact, the focusing screen is easily smeared with fingers and it becomes much worse. Air can take away, can move even further, for example to the center. Options: clean the service with a guarantee, leave it as is, take a chance and clean it yourself.
It morally disturbs, but considering that the rest of the video finder is crystal clear / transparent, it’s better not to touch it. There really is a huge chance to screw up even more than there is. Thanks a lot)
I have a nikon d5300 carcass and a Helios 44 lens twisted from the zenith of the TTL (via an adapter). The shooting mode is only available fully manual. I noticed that when focusing through the screen, the picture slows down and jerks, scored and took pictures through the viewfinder. I sinned on the Soviet lens, I learned from your review that the lens had nothing to do with it. PS My wife forbade her to be photographed on the D5300 - every wrinkle cuts into the photo, the eyes are cut by leaked mascara, which was invisible during the shooting and these details are not visible in the photo from the soap dish.
Try updating the carcass software.
Reduce (sharpen) the sharpness in the piccha control.
Adobe Photoshop and Imagenomic Portraiture will save your wife and father of Russian democracy :)
Good time. Advise the lens to this unit - 50mm, I do not know the aperture ratio. Since this crop is the meaning in f1.4 and 1,8 is not on this carcass?
The meaning was, is and will be. The larger the aperture, the greater the ability to shoot in the dark and blur the background for the subject. Especially for the DOF crop more and the aperture ratio for the prettiness of the picture needs more. But I would advise you to reflect on the question 50vs35.
I agree with you, but they work correctly on a full frame as far as I know. And on the crop - sharpness appears already at an aperture of somewhere around 2,8 ... If I'm wrong, please correct.
On the contrary, on crop the sharpness throughout the frame is higher, because on the smaller matrix, an image is obtained obtained from the central part of the FF lens, at the periphery there is more distortion.
You are shooting a three-dimensional world. How can everything be sharp on such apertures?
I can take a sharp shot with an open aperture on almost any lens. Sharpness depends on many factors, the lens here is the tenth thing. Learn to shoot, and everything will be all right.
hello, I am the owner of the Nikon D5300 kit 18-55, I want to develop further, and plans to purchase a portrait lens, advise a good, but budget? and another question for what purposes ZOO objects can be useful to me? and if possible, do you think it's worth taking a closer look at used lenses? I am new to this field
You have already been answered in the previous topic. Under the portrait, the Nikon 50 / 1.8G is conventionally suitable. The remaining questions require your personal study. You can change your 18-55 to 18-105 or 18-140 and there will be happiness :)
thanks! I can’t afford to buy a new lens, I’m only taking photos for myself, until I can pull such an investment. and on the other hand, it’s difficult to learn to shoot on a CIT, I want a beautiful bokeh, with portrait shooting! I will search
Hello! I have been using this model (D5300) for a year now, and I realized that I like to take portraits both in the studio and on the street, and having bought a 50 1.4D Nikkor lens, I encountered a complete lack of autofocus, only one-point focusing using the ring is possible, but it does shooting is long and the presence of only one point does not make it possible to make pictures more clear. The question is if you change it to 50 1.4G, will there be autofocus, and will it be possible to shoot at full height without blurring the foreground, or in this case the D5300 will not pull?
Good afternoon.
Yes, autofocus will be with all Nikon lenses that include the AF-S or AF-P.
At 50 1.4g they covered the diaphragm and it will be normal in full growth. There is not a problem in d5300, but in understanding what is happening :)
Thank you for such a quick response) the only thing that is not entirely clear in the articles about lenses is what is a “camera with a motor or without a motor”?
This issue has been considered. here.
The D5300 is a camera without a built-in focusing motor and lenses with AF markings (without a focusing motor), such as your Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D, are not suitable for it. As a result, there is no focusing motor in either the camera or the lens.
This camera only needs lenses marked AF-S, AF-P, rarely AF-I, or any third-party lenses that also have a built-in focus motor.
Svetlana: 1) focusing on one point is not associated with blurred images. Because the camera uses 39 points, the clarity will not increase. It is important that the focus is in the right place, and the other parameters are correctly selected - one point is enough. 2) At fully open aperture for finer focusing, try Live View Zoom. Focus on the model's eyes. 3) Shoot at different apertures to understand which value and type of shot is right for you. Tip: leave this lens on for now, master the technical issues faster - you need it to move on. Then sell and buy Nikon 50mm 1,8G or Nikon 50mm 1,4G (1,8G is most likely enough for you).
Hello! please tell me, I want to buy a Helios 44 with a macro ring for shooting! but the question arose of how to choose an adapter and how to remove it all the same, if there is no screwdriver on the d5300 and no Helios? thanks
For macro photography, you will need an M42-nikon f adapter without a lens. You can with a chip, you can without. You just have to focus manually, no screwdriver needed
thanks !! I will look for a Helios and an adapter! but I don’t understand a bit, is helios comparable in quality to the sigma macro, for example? the result and quality will differ slightly?) because the price of the issue is significantly different
Not comparable, but that's another question. It’s probably enough for you
Hello everyone. I bought the d5300 a couple of days ago with kit 18-55, and I also bought the lens 35 1 1.8 all day. I didn’t let the camera out of my hands, but I shot mostly at 35. I took portraits and landscapes, and I will continue to shoot portraits and landscapes. Question: continue to shoot at 35 or is it worth playing with a whale too, for example, take a picture with the landscape? What advise.
I advise you to use both lenses, over time, decide for yourself what’s what.
Thanks for answers. And what other advise to buy lenses?
To begin with, none. Shoot at least 5300 thousand frames on your newly-made d50, then you can already advise something, but now there is absolutely no understanding of why, where and what.
Good day! Do you plan to review the D5600? I really want to change my old man 3100 to 5600 and would like to know if the game is worth the candle, after all, 14k UAH per carcass is a lot of money for me. There are 18-105 glasses, 50 1.8G, Helios 44-2 and I plan to buy 55- 300. I would like to know about noise, working ISO, autofocus operation, screen operation, ergonomics and battery performance.