According provided by lens Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII) huge thanks to the store www.fotika.com.uawhere you can find a huge number of different used photographic equipment, including this model.
Review of Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII)
The Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 lens exists in two versions:
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKI), manufactured from 1986 to 1989. All lenses were made in Japan.
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII), produced from 1989 to 1994. Lenses with serial numbers starting with '4' were manufactured in Japan. Lenses with serial numbers beginning with '5' were manufactured in Thailand. This review presents the Thai version.
Both versions have the same optical design, possibly with a slightly modified enlightenment. The main difference MKI and MKII is in the design of the case.
There is a manual lens Nikon Zoom-Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3 ~ 4.5 AI-S, which was produced from 1984 to 2005, which has exactly the same optical design as the autofocus versions of MKII and MKI. I wonder why they continued to release the manual lens right up to 2005, but forgot about the autofocus version 10 years earlier?
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII), rear view
Differences MKI and MKII:
- Year and country of origin (details - at the beginning of the review).
- The MKI version has a plastic, non-rubberized, narrow and uncomfortable focus ring, while the MKII got a wider and rubberized one.
- The MKI version had a window with a focus distance scale. On the MKII version, the window was removed, and the scale was transferred directly to the focus ring.
- The MKI version had 6 rows of 'spikes' on the zoom ring, the MKII only 5 :).
- The MKI version had a latch button to lock the diaphragm ring; the MKII uses a slider latch.
- The whole building as a whole has undergone a number of changes. The MKII version is built to the touch more efficiently.
- MKII weighs 240 grams, MKI 260.
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII), maximum trunk length
And a few more types of the lens itself:
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII) and Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical, both from Thailand.
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII) small, just a little bit larger than the fixed lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical:
dimensions Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII) and
Sample Photos
Here link to the archive with the originals - 115 MB, 13 photos in .NEF format (RAW) from the Nikon camera D700 (FX) and Nikon D80 (DX).
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII) on the camera Nikon D5300
List of all Nikon FX 35-XXX autofocus lenses:
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8 (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70 mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-80 mm 1: 4-5.6D (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-80 mm 1: 4-5.6D (MKII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 D (MKIII)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKII)
The catalog of modern universal lenses for Nikon can be look at this link.
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Results
Nikon AF Nikkor 35-70mm 1: 3.3-4.5 (MKII), like his predecessor, very small and pretty lens. True, old Kenny wrote it in his list of worst Nikorr lenses of all time.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
I didn’t manage to buy this miracle - I made photo tests and rushed to develop on Sadovaya - I made samples - I rushed over and wanted to postpone it - alas - I already bought it ... Everyone looked at the photos from it and were surprised at the quality of the picture - Nikon F801s camera
I saw this, only the 1st version in paparation for 660 UAH, and on the fotik more than 1000 ...
About five years ago I wanted to buy such a lens for myself, but I looked at the reviews (of which there are very few) - I changed my mind and apparently for good reason!
Thanks to the store Fotika.com.ua for sharing interesting review equipment with Arkady. Thanks to Arkady for a good objective review without further ado. I don’t know how this lens is in terms of picture quality, but its size is impressive :) Such a standard zoom can be worn on the camera everywhere and always.
The review is short due to the fact that the functional and optical components of the MKI and MKII versions are the same, they differ only in the little things about which I described.
Indeed, information about this glass on the network is not enough. Therefore, the review shed light on the question that tormented me for a long time: how strongly the versions of MK I and MK II are optically different. It turned out not so much. Thanks, Arkady, helped. Like it :)
The usual good glass for every day. I use both crop and ff. The only thing I don't like is the knocking at the lower and upper points of the FR during autofocus. Only on my copy so?
This is so for everyone)
A normal lens, the only annoying wild meringue over the entire range and software at 35mm to 3.3. AF speed is very good.
https://vk.com/video203674251_170066042
By the way, my Japanese.
I have long noticed that there is not much use from Japanese lenses.
And I was not impressed by this lens (this particular instance), as a result of which I changed it in the camera down to 35-70 / 2,8 with an additional charge. ... And then life got better :) By the way, the test of my current 35-70 / 2,8 is also described here by Arkady. It's just that I spoiled my face a little with 50 / 1.4 and 85 / 1,8, and the picture from a small zoom was no longer as pleasing as during the first acquaintance with a similar lens from my friend. Plus, I was disappointed by the inability to correct distortion in NX2 at a wide angle. The rest is a good compact zoom with a nice picture.
35-70 / 2.8 is which D or NON-D? How much did they take?
NON-D at the time of purchase, it was priced at 4500 UAH
Dear colleagues, excuse me not in the topic, I need advice! Interested in Nikon d7000 (just for the money). Will the picture differ from 5100 and how it behaves in studio shooting. Thanks so much for the tips!
Konstantin, if it’s tight with money, then in the STUDIO it’s possible to shoot completely on the D5100. In the studio, the interior, details, and good expensive light with professional diffusers are more important, the carcass does not play a fundamental difference there, the more megapixels the better, the rest is not important. Maybe I'm wrong, if so then fix it below. This is just my small opinion and it is not the only true one. Good luck in the studio.
And the makeup artist is even more important in the studio, he saves a ton of your time, and then you don’t have to do a ton of processing and sit at the monitor for hours.
Guys, thanks for the tip. But then tell me how to adjust the shutter speed if you need to set the open aperture
Camera in M mode, set the aperture and shutter speed, exposure is balanced by either ISO or flash (both can be done automatically). It is still possible in the studio it makes sense to connect the camera to a laptop and control the process through Camera Control Pro 2.
Come on, scare you, we are talking about the D5100 - you need to understand! )))
Light for a start can be collected very budget almost from improvised materials.
Colleagues Thank you for the helpful tips! I’ll get a really better lens.
the picture is not too perceptible, but the weight, ease of use and the speed of changing the settings - yes.
Is convenience better at 7000 or 5100? Thanks for the tips.
D5100 is a great camera. If I'm not mistaken. So the D5100 and D7000 have the same matrix. The D5100 is enough for you. Better buy a good lens. If one is not available.
Thanks, what advise?
Get a set of fixes for the studio. I don't know what plan you will have a photo, but my insanely favorite crop fix is 85 / 1.8G, a little less favorite 50 / 1.4G (you can take a cheaper 1.8G, if you don't have enough money, then start with it. ), I hardly use 35 (but what if you need it for a group photo?). Also, since focusing speed for you in the studio is the last thing, you can try an arsenal of cheap manual fixes, but here you need to take into account that when measuring the exposure, there can be difficulties (solvable), but it will be better to focus through LiveView.
An important nuance: since there is no focus adjustment on the D5100, and almost any carcass and lens has its own, albeit small, but individual front / back, and the depth of field on high-aperture fixes is narrow as a blade - then do not be lazy, go to the Nikon service center and adjust all your lenses for your carcass! The time and money spent (not very large) will more than pay off with the sharpness of the photo.
The 85 / 1.8G lens needs a large studio with an expensive rental price. In the studio at KROP I was comfortable working at 50mm. And with 85ka I only 1 facial portrait fotkal for the entire photo shoot. But in my life I have seen 3 * 3 meter studios (by professional studios) so they shoot 17 mm in such studios :) So you need to start from the size of the studio when choosing a lens, this is a fact.
If you are learning to shoot different things and adjust a bunch of parameters in the process of shooting, have plans for portrait shooting, to work with flashes, maybe something “quick-reportage-amateur” and so on - then in this case d7000 is better. It is corny more possibilities for quick adjustment of many things, plus high-speed synchronization with native flash units and control over them.
If you need a camera to “constantly carry around and shoot anything, without quirks with the study of tons of fine settings”, or not bothering to shoot in the studio and set fire to the flashes through the synchronizer, then it's better to take the 5100 - it's easier to carry, but in the studio it's still on manual settings. work.
Fixes - a bunch of 35 / 1,8 g and 85 / 1,8 g is convenient. What's on the one that on the other carcass. 35 for general plans, for shooting indoors, 85 for portraits and a large studio.
Poltina on the crop, alas, is not particularly suitable - for a room it is narrow, for a face portrait - it shakes the face.
Or replace everything with one zoom, such as 24-85, 35-105, with some kind of one, although the pattern is worse than the two fixes.
In fact, taking into account the fact that in studios with flashes the shooting is on 5,6-8 apertures, for the first time MORE than enough good whales 18-105 or 18-140 will be enough. On tight diaphragms they are quite sharp.
In general, if you take the first carcass, it is still better with some of the whale lenses, so that there is “at least something universal”.
.......
Thank you
Thanks for the helpful tips.
“I wonder why the manual lens continued to be produced right up to 2005, and the autofocus version was forgotten 10 years earlier?”
He went as a staffer to FM10.
Please tell me if it makes sense to use this lens for macro on a crop with a reverse ring? If you compare, for example, with 50 / 1.8D?
Why is there some kind of nonsense that they write that it’s not important, but it shoots just fine! better than some more expensive zooms!
I'm tormented with a vibrator between Nikkor AF 28-70 f / 3,5-4,5D and AF 35-70mm f3.3-4-5 p_dkazhit be-caress kind of brothers?
Marvel at 28-105, so Arkadiy is browning.
I wanted to shoot with him on the D60 in manual mode, but the camera does not want to work with this lens, asks to fix the aperture (which is already done). Everything works on the D600.
Understood: clamped the EE lever on the camera and it worked :)
https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/ee-index-mount-f-second-type.jpg
Arkady, the manual lens lasted longer, because it was a cetacean for the FM10 film. And he kept afloat for a very long time.
Please tell me, when focusing, does the front lens rotate in the same way as in the first version?
Yes
Good day, Arkady, I have a question, I recently became the owner of a D300 screwdriver camera, with a sim lens, and so, with the aperture set to 22, the carcass changes the aperture from 3,8 to 22, but how to set 3,3? in manual mode, if I set any aperture, f3,3 blinks on the BW screen and when trying to release the shutter, it writes error r06.
I bought this markII just afterI bought 28-8/3,5-5,6 mark ıı which had apertute ring. After testing both with my Sony 7 r ıı now my decesion about it is to sell this lens. Although it is in very good condition. Although one stop or may be more darker I shall keep 28-80mm.