According provided by Nikon D3300 body camera many thanks to the official representative of Nikon in Ukraine.
Nikon D3300 review
The Nikon D3300 camera was announced on January 7, 2014 (2 months after the announcement Nikon D5300), and, at the time of writing this review, was the newest camera in the Nikon DX series.
The camera comes in three different body colors; this review presents an option in a classic black case.
The line of cameras Nikon D40 -> D40X -> D60 -> D3000 -> D3100 -> D3200 -> D3300 -> D3400 considered the easiest in the entire range of Nikon digital SLR cameras... But 'simple' in no way means 'bad', with this little D3300 you can get just fabulous photos, the main thing is a little desire, and the camera will do the rest (there should be an ironic smiley here, but it won't be).
Nikon D3300 is perfect for all those who want to get good results in the photo without delving into the subtleties of settings. There is a 'Guide' mode on the mode dial, where all the tips are present, and you can also select any shooting mode from 'Landscapes' to 'Sleepy Faces' :), the camera will do the rest almost by itself.
Nikon D3300 usually sold with an updated full-time lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkorwhich will be enough for 99% simple shooting. Such a set of a camera and a lens is called a kit (from the English 'kit'), if in some store you find a 'Nikon D3300 BODY', then you should know that only the camera itself is sold without a lens.
Nikon D3300
The D3300 is very, very similar to its predecessor - D3200, which was born on 19.04.2012/19/3300 (XNUMX months before DXNUMX). Both cameras use the same focusing module Nikon Multi-CAM 1000, the same measurement is used 420-pixel RGB sensorThe cameras are very light and have the same 3-inch display at 921.600 dots (720 pixels wide x 480 pixels high x 3 RBG sub-pixels) and also use the same optical viewfinder with a 95% coverage of the zone and a 0.85x magnification based on pentazerkal.
Management for D3300 and D3200 also the same. On the D3300, only slightly changed the location of the button that controls the shooting method (single, continuous, silent shutter, self-timer, delayed release ML-L3fast descent ML-L3), and the joystick is now not four-, but eight-way (left, right, down, up and diagonally). Among amateur cameras, such a joystick was first seen at Nikon D5200.
The D3300 is also Nikon's lightest DSLR camera ever, weighing 430 grams with a battery, just 23 grams more than the lightest DSLR of any model - Canon EOS 100D. Although the camera is really very light, but quite durable, it has a fully rubberized grip and a rubber insert under the thumb. I used the Nikon D3300 with a lens without any problems Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII), which weighs 1.3 kg (more than 3 times heavier than the camera itself), while nothing happened with the plastic case of the camera.
Nikon D3300, battery compartment, battery and memory card
The most important thing that appeared in the D3300 compared to D3200 Is a new matrix. The camera can capture images with a maximum size of 6000 x 4000 pixels, which equals exactly 24 MegaPixels. I want to note a tiny nuance - probably for the first time among the same line of Nikon cameras there was a decrease in the number of MPs on the camera sensor. So, Nikon D3200 creates pictures of a maximum size of 6016 X 4000 pixels, which in the end is 64.000 pixels larger than the Nikon D3300. But of course not in megapixel happiness.
Also, one of the key features of the camera is the lack of a low-pass filter. Although information about this cannot be found on Nikon official website, or in the instructions for the camera. But on a large number of other resources, it is claimed that the D3300 lacks an OLPF filter (proof 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 etc.). Personally, I couldn’t determine by eye whether this filter is or not, especially since I didn’t have other similar cameras at hand to compare their shots with the same lens.
I can’t say for sure, but most likely the D3300 uses a sensor from D5300, This is indirectly indicated by the similarity of many parameters. And most likely they omit information about the lack of an OLPF filter on official sites, so that the difference between Nikon D5300 and the D3300 was more tangible.
Given that the Nikon D3300 only processes data with 12-bit color depth, Nikon D5300 with 14 bit depth then images with D5300 It should be a little better :).
The D3300 can use ISO from 100 to 12.800 units and expand it to a HI1 value equivalent to ISO 25.600. These are very large figures for an amateur camera. By the way, even Nikon D800 or Nikon D7100, which are much more advanced and expensive cameras, cannot use a base, unexpanded ISO of 12.800 units.
The ISO value changes only in whole steps and manually you can select only the ISO values 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12.800 and HI1.
Personally, I was pleasantly surprised by the performance of the camera at high ISO, the camera copes with noise very well, as for crop. But I didn’t like that you can’t turn it on quickly ISO auto control via the quick setup screen using the 'i' button. To enable and configure auto ISO Be sure to climb into the camera menu. For 55 mm focal length function auto ISO with automatic selection excerpts sets the maximum shutter speed equal to 1/100 of a second.
Nikon D3300, top view
Also, among the new features in the Nikon D3300, you can find burst shooting at 5 frames per second. This is just a great indicator for an amateur camera of the simplest level. Apparently the manufacturer understands that due to the appearance on the market of super-rapid-fire mirrorless and SLT cameras, it is necessary to somehow increase the 'rate of fire' of real 'DSLRs', albeit amateur ones. By the way, 5 frames per second is more than professional Nikon D800,D800E, D1x and as much as professional Nikon D1h, D2xs, D2x, D200, D3x (if we compare their regular modes of operation).
But of course, frame buffer the camera is small. If you disable features such as' Auto. distortion control ',' Active D-Lighting ',' Noise reduction ',' ISO HI1 ', then the buffer is placed
- 7 frames in RAW format
- 6 frames in RAW + JPEG format
- 9 frames in JPEG L, Fine format
If you include everything that is possible, then it is placed in the buffer:
- 3-4 frames in RAW format
- 3-4 frames in RAW + JPEG format
- 4-5 frames in JPEG L, Fine format
After filling the buffer, the camera digests the captured material for a rather long time and writes it to the memory card. It's funny, but despite the fact that the Nikon D3300 uses an Expeed 4 processor, and D3200 - Expeed 3, the older camera does better burst shooting due to the larger frame buffer.
And one more small fly in the ointment. When you turn on Live View and zoom in on the selected area using the '+' button (you need to press this button more than two times), the image on the screen starts to slow down very, very much, showing no more than 2-3 frames per second. No matter how hard I tried, but I could not find some pattern in which modes and with what settings the brakes start. For me personally, this slowdown very much interfered with when working with a lens that supported only manual focus on the camera - Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)with which the increase in the selected area could greatly facilitate focusing. And where, I ask, is the praised performance of the Expeed 4 processor?
RAW files average about 19-25 MB each. Camera supports SD, SDHC, SDXC memory cards.
Nikon D3300 with lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Nikon D3300 uses the EN-EL14a battery, which was enough for me for a huge number of frames. The same battery is used in the camera. Nikon D5300. Also, the EN-EL14a and EN-EL14 batteries are interchangeable, which is why batteries from the Nikon D3300 should be suitable for D5200, D3200, D3100 and Nikon DF.
Nikon D3300 with lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor
The camera supports video quality of 1920 x 1080 60p, H.264 / MPEG-4 is written in the '.MOV' file format. Attention: to shoot at 60p you need to set NTSC mode in the menu. Nikon D3200 could only shoot with maximum quality of 1920 x 1080 30p.
Who does not need to create a bunch of heavy video files, he can take advantage of other sizes of the original video. You can also select high or normal video quality. The Nikon D3300 has a built-in mono microphone. You can also use a stereo microphone through a regular mini-pin jack, Nikon recommends using the original ME-1 microphone. In AF-F focus mode, continuous tracking is available when shooting video. The AF-F focus mode must be set using the 'I' button while Live View is on.
A common weakness for most Nikon cameras is the inability to change the aperture value when shooting video. Also, the camera focuses very slowly and rather inaccurately when shooting video, since Live View uses the usual focusing in contrast.
Nikon D3300 with lens Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor and blend
Near the flash activation button, the camera has a programmable Fn button, it's just a pity that the choice of possible functions for this button consists of only four options:
- Image Quality / Image Size
- ISO sensitivity
- White balance
- Active D-lighting
Personally, I have not changed my habits since Nikon D40where this button was programmed for me to change the ISO.
Nikon D3300 can do simple panoramas. To make a panorama, put the camera in 'Effects' mode and follow the direction of the camera. When shooting a panorama, the camera does not take a series of frames, but stitches them immediately in Live View mode, as in ordinary video shooting.
Nikon D3300 with lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and blend
You can write an overview of any camera endlessly, since modern central controllers are crammed with different settings, options, sub-functions and a submenu from head to toe :). But for some of the features of the Nikon D3300, I would just like to go over the list:
- The camera has a simple menu for processing captured RAW files.
- You can have the camera imprint the date and time on the captured images. However, the function only works when shooting in JPEG format.
- There is a focus function with face priority in Live View, which quickly helps to focus on people's faces.
- There is a function for cleaning the matrix, it helps to keep the matrix of the camera clean for a long time.
- Tips for working with the camera. To see the prompt, you need to click on the button with the image of the question mark.
- Active D-lighting and noise reduction function. It is unfortunate that these functions do not have advanced settings and can be either turned on or off. But to the material you can apply D-lighting with different intensity settings.
- The shutter release can be controlled remotely using a cheap remote control ML-L3... By the way, the camera has two infrared receivers for the remote control signal, one is located behind the camera (on the handle), the other in front (above the 'play' button). This arrangement of receivers is very convenient to use. Also, the camera supports WR-1 and WR-R10 wireless remotes, as well as a regular MC-DC2 cable.
- Nikon D3300 supports the ability to connect an optional wi-fi module WU-1 for instant transfer of photos / videos to a computer or other compatible devices. Not included in the package. Additionally, you can buy a GPS module - GP-1 or GP-1A, to obtain data about the location of the camera. But the Nikon 5300 has GPS and wi-fi modules already built-in.
- The built-in flash can operate at shutter speeds up to 1 \ 200 second. The flash guide number in manual flash control is 13 meters. Nikon D3300 built-in flash does not support FP mode works with the flash and does not support the automatic control of other external flashes using Nikon CLS.
- The camera supports automatic lens distortion control (most likely the camera automatically corrects vignetting, chromatic aberration и distortion).
- Exposure varies from 30s to 1/4000 seconds.
- In RGB view modebar charts You can view the histogram for any selected image fragment.
- You can power the camera from an outlet using the EH-5b AC adapter with an EP-5A connection.
Nikon D3300 with lens Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII)
A small gallery with sample photos on the Nikon D3300.
Here link to the archive with originals and JPEG files - 934 MB, 49 photos in .NEF format (RAW) and JPEG. All photos in the gallery are untreated, just a smaller on-camera JPEG. For shooting, lenses were used. Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII), Nikon 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII VR II AF-S DX Nikkor и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical.
A little lyrical digression. I still use the camera Nikon D80which has the same sensor as Nikon D3000. And, after the pictures taken with Nikon D80, Nikon D3300 shots seem to be an order of magnitude better. First of all, new cameras are much better at handling high ISO noise. Nikon D3000 и D80 already shamelessly 'noisy' at ISO 800, but the noise problems of the Nikon D3300 start somewhere after the ISO 3200 mark. Personally, I am glad that Nikon is updating the matrices in its cameras and I am even thinking of changing my Nikon D80 to something else :).
Below shown block with prices on Nikon D3300 in major online stores:
All Nikon D3300 body prices
If don't know which camera and lens to choose, then my article will help with this - Which Nikon amateur DSLR camera and lens to choose?
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
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Overall, the Nikon D3300 is a great amateur camera. It is cut in functionality, which will never be in demand by those people for whom it was developed, but, in turn, can easily help anyone get a high-quality (at least technically high-quality) picture in almost any situation. On the other hand, amateur Nikon D3100 does almost everything the same as Nikon D3300 and personally I do not see much reason to overpay for those people who want a simple 'DSLR' for home shooting. Of course, amateur photographers who are trying to squeeze every last drop from the camera will be able to feel the innovations in the Nikon D3300. Therefore, I believe that Nikon D3300 is a logical continuation of Nikon's amateur series of cameras, while all the improvements are expected and do not have any major innovations.
17.08.2016/3300/XNUMX a replacement was introduced for the DXNUMX represented by D3400.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
D 3300 is my first DSLRKamera for a year and a half, I always take with me on outings - nature, the Carpathians, rybalka. The camera is very happy. But there is a moment that this pleasure crosses out ... The gum under the trigger button began to peel off.
One of the differences between 3300 and 3200 is that 3300 understands and works normally with flash drives formatted in exFat. It’s a little thing, but exFat FS was created to work with flash drives, unlike the ancient fat (32).
Noises, of course, are noticeable after 1600, but the noise reduction works very well. In RAW, noises are choked up to all 25. Of course, a shot at 600 is more like a frame from a phone, but in fact under such conditions the phone will not take anything.
I purchased an external YONGNUO YN-568EX flash for my Nikon D 3300. As I understood, my camera does not have wireless external flash control. Can I fix the situation? Maybe buy something? Thank you
radio synchronizer
Thank you, Michael. I will take your advice. But does the Nikon D 3300 really have no wireless flash control?
it does not know how to operate, and it is easy to set fire to it remotely, only the power will have to be set on an external flash, which is inconvenient
Setting fire to it if a flash is placed on the camera, which will control the slave flash? Am I getting it right?
you can set fire to the built-in flash of the camera, read the review of Arkady https://radojuva.com/2013/09/yongnuo-yn-568ex-speedlite/, modes S1 and S2.
Yuri, but my Nikon D 3300 does not support Nikon CLS automatic command flash control using the built-in flash. Here on this link https://radojuva.com/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/ it is clear that he is not on the list of cameras that can do this.
eh, persuaded, buy a new camera, was wrong)
Yuri, I realized my mistake. Before entering S1 mode, it was necessary to first transfer the flash to the manual. And now the built-in flash began to set fire to the external. Thank you for responding to my question. The fact is that I only got it the day before yesterday (for the first time), it’s very, very new to this business. All the best to you, successful shots.
Yuri, I realized my mistake. Before entering S1 mode, it was necessary to first transfer the flash to the manual. And now the built-in flash began to set fire to the external. Thank you for responding to my question. The fact is that I only got it the day before yesterday (for the first time), it’s very, very new to this business. All the best to you, successful shots.
Marina, I look towards the YN565EX for the same D3300. Please praise or scold such a tandem), as I understand it, you have been using it for several months
TTL in Chinese flashes does not work. You will have to manually set the power
The i-TTL on the YN565EX flash works, I personally have no complaints about it.
Triopo tr-586ex: a slightly modified and cheaper analogue of the Yongnuo YN-586ex. Auto mode i.e. i-TTL on Nikon and e-TTL on Canon, out of the box. Powerful. Comes with a case. Prices are 2600-3200 rubles. If suitable for home use, flawlessly. For commerce, neither Triopo nor Yongnuo would take.
Will the Nikon 1 Nikkor 10mm f / 2.8 Lens fit the D3300?
Not suitable.
Good day, tell me what is the best way to do it :) I have a certain fleet of Nikon non-autofocus optics (helios-81n, kaleinar-5n, etc.) which is better: buy a chip adapter from Nikon bayanet to canon or not bother and take Nikon D3300 (or used 3100). I ask by the fact that I was faced with the fact that the chip adapter does not give accurate autofocus on the Canon constantly, either the front or the back (or with an instance, no luck?). On the network, I came across information that Nikon provides focus confirmation for manual optics (metering that is not working while this is not critical for me). how accurate will the focus be? Thanks in advance for the answer :)
The question is complex. You can take the older Nikon, for example, D200 / D300 there will be focus confirmation and metering and automatic iris control.
On the 3000 series, for convenient use (metering and iris control), you will have to glue a dandelion. Nevertheless, focusing on open ones will sometimes overshoot depending on distance and lighting. And exposure from aperture position. Better buy a semi-professional Nikon.
That is, for working with manual optics it is better to take Nikon d90 or d80?
d80 is not better, it is like 3xxx.
there is a choice between a second-hand nikon 3100,3200 and a new 3300. Is it worth it to pay for 3300, or is it better to buy a cheaper 3100 or 3200. Is the picture quality of 3100 worse than 3300?
In general, the picture quality is noticeably better in newer models only by some criteria. Personally, I would take the d3200 or d3100, but with a better lens. The lens is very important, in this segment and with this choice - more important than the camera.
I recommend the D3200. I myself had a D3100, looked at the d3200 and bought it instead. One screen is worth it. And the resolution is higher. In order not to talk about the unimportance of megapixels, this is a plus for an amateur. Then I compared 3200 and 3300 - it makes no sense to change. My only benefit is the support for AP-S lenses. But how many have them, especially on the used market?
Vitaly, what do you see the advantages of multi-pixel?
I apologize for getting in. but as for me one of the first is framing. There was a D7000 with its 16mp, with a glass of 120-400 the moon is not close to frame, pixels. with 24mp everything is different.
Already answered. You really don't need a lot of pixels to print on paper. But in “non-professional” household use they are sometimes needed. Cropping - specifically as above or just a fix. Sighting on amateurs is not correct. And sometimes you just need to photograph some document - in this case, megapixels decide. There were 3100 and 3200 at the same time. Compared specifically. The second won. Naturally, the problem with blur comes out, but over time you get used to reducing the shutter speed, pressing the shutter more smoothly, taking 2-3 shots.
Cropping? You can frame a frame to half-area and from a 6-megapixel matrix without any flaws, and if you sprinkle it heavily, then you rather run into the resolution of the lens than the pixelization of the image (judging by d5100 + H.55-300). And the cons: a large weight of RAVs, a less sharp picture, an early onset of the diffraction limit (almost from f8), again a micro-movement. True, I myself have not read Pasternak, i.e. I do not have a giant crop. But many photographers point out that gigapixel crop is generally a marketing overkill.
The number of megapixels is in some ways a plus, in some ways a minus. The area of the sensor remains the same, so to squeeze in more megapixels, you need to squeeze them, and the more, the stronger. As for the crop of the image, the crop of the image is just a digital zoom with all that it implies. It's like diluting milk with water for a larger volume - in some limits it is tolerable, in some it will turn out to be complete garbage.
Everyone can judge by reviews. I compared 14 and 24 megapixels in the forehead. 3200 picture resolution is better than 3100 resolution if the lens allows. And you can see this with the most common 18-55, 18-105, 55-200, 70-300, 35 AF-S Nikon. These are the ones that I used myself. But if the lens is weak, then at 14 megapixels the picture really seems sharper and more detailed.
But if at 14 megapixels micro-lubrication is hard to see, then at 24 it is very common. And often this is done by the stabilizer - weak bifurcation of small parts: hair, twigs, etc. Most often I notice this from 18-105. With 70-300 this is no longer there, there is a next generation stabilizer. The picture freezes straight.
I did not elaborate…. I used the D7000 with its 16MP, switched to the D600 with 24MP, the pixel size may remain the same, but better in cropping.
If you reduce the D600 matrix to cropped (2,25 times) you get 24: 2,25 = 10,7MP, and the pixel is the largest, and the framing is better (less noise).
I complain about the rik.
Bulo 3-4 family sessions (class, 1st class, national day ...) 200-400 RAW characters each.
A yak for a serial device is just a super camera.
The stock AF-P 18-55 is just a bomb.
Having bought the Chinese dormant Meike MK950II. With vrahuvanyam vartostі ($ 50) that.
All misses go to Adobe Lightroom. In RAW-iv it is possible to drag a devil's fox. Normal frames can be rendered as long as they aren’t sprayed in a dark environment (they don’t get charged when the power is gray).
For the normal daylight revitalization in the food of the Germans.
You can navigate the bokeh by 50 mm.
Well I know - for the family photo.
No more whistle-wyverts. Normal lights of the AF-S and AF-P are on the road.
Significantly cheaper pereіrena svіtla optics AF (it’s even more expensive than b / w tech) to go ale autofocus is not practical.
It’s possible for a cob more beautifully to take a D200 chi D300 second-hand ($ 300- $ 400) ale in the middle you can buy a chic AF optics.
Until the apartment itself, the food was dumb.
I can’t find a normal look around for the new AF-P DX 70-300.
I would like to be able to get an AF-S 55-200. (write, the AF-S 55-300 is worth focusing on focus https://radojuva.com/2013/07/nikon-55-300-vr-ed-dx-review/).
Good afternoon!
I’ve been looking at your blog for a long time, a lot of interesting information about technology, thank you for not leaving beginners and continuing photographers!
Now, for the first time in my life, I decided to plan a photo project (if it suddenly works out, donate from me))) ... and you need to draw up a cost item. Now I use an old D90, but I understand that for the project it will already be necessary to take new equipment.
I look towards full-frame cameras .. please tell me, for a beginner, prof. photographer, what kind of hardy technique and with all the necessary functionality would you recommend?
P.S. As for crop, I would gladly take the D3300, and a simple but good portrait, I just don’t know if the loss of the viewing angle is critical, because you write that the angle is lost. (the project is related to photographing children)
Good afternoon.
Nikon D610 / D600 / D750 or Canon 5D mark 3 / 6D + lenses for tasks will go completely. It’s very difficult to guess without a budget.
Dozya, good afternoon! Tell me, is it worth changing the D90 to the D3300? I mostly take pictures for myself, but from time to time I have to photograph presentations and speeches of colleagues in insufficient light. Yesterday I again faced such a situation, while I cannot raise ISO more than 1000, since the noise is quite large (I use a flash, but in large conference rooms it does not solve this issue). So this question arose. I don't consider older models like 7200, D610 - it's too expensive, since my activity is not paid for and this is not commerce. But BU 3300 is quite suitable for the price. Thank you in advance for your constructive answer!
Litter for the crap! "Friends" :)
The D3300 will not help much, while “for myself” it is much more difficult to shoot with it. It is better to take something lighter from optics to d90, zooms from 2.8 and fixes from 1.4 / 1.8, but this is not a panacea either.
Thank you very much! So I won’t fool myself and collect on a used D600.
Does it make sense to take a camera worse? In RAV, everything is the same noise, the difference is only crop-ff
Michael, thank you for your answer. Probably yes - it makes no sense.
D3300 wins somewhat in ISO, dynamic range, and, in my subjective opinion, gives a slightly sharper picture. Sometimes 24MP instead of 12MP can come in handy. But in general, this is an entry-level camera and it will not give cardinal improvements. D90 is more convenient to control, including with it it is much more effective to control external flash units. I know both cameras well, I think it makes no sense to spend money on the D3300, and, perhaps, on the D7200 too.
Valentine, thank you! D7200 comes out quite a lot for the price. You can take a little more and a full frame.
So on the secondary, just you can catch the full frame in good condition cheaper than d7200. But I would rather follow Arkady’s advice and buy Tamron / sigma 17-50 f2.8 with a stub (11-15 thousand) or a couple of even brighter fixes +/- in the same amounts, but it depends on specific models (may be more expensive , decide for yourself on the budget). Anyway, a good flash is still needed, because no set of optics will close all situations.
Hello. Please advise the most budgetary DSLR for the purpose - a snapshot of a child who is fast moving, and so you want to catch cool shots! For home photos. The phone makes blurry and after it I will like any DSLR) As I understand it, do you need fast autofocus? I have just started reading about the cameras, in time I will figure out what to expose) I will look for a used camera, cheaper - give, please, the names of several models for my need? Thanks)
Hello. Fast autofocus will help little, more hands are needed from the right place, i.e. practice and experience. Cheaper you can take the old Nikon D40, D80, D3000 and further on the list (the corresponding article on the site). Old Canon 400D, 40D onwards (again, article)
Hello. I think that "blurry" photos are not the result of slow autofocus (the phone has a large depth of field, I suppose), but long exposures in conditions of insufficient light, probably they were filming in the room? If in a room, an external flash will help a lot - the simplest one with the ability to puff into the ceiling, like Nikon's sb-400. On cameras - yes, you can take very good. budget d40 - d3000, with good light on the street, they usually give beautiful colors (including faces).
Thanks. Yes, I shot in the room. And I do not argue that the hands are even in everything)) But I want to advance in this matter, there are many points that I want to catch and they are unique)
Hello. I have a Nikon d3300, but with a Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G lens, this was included in the kit. Recently bought Nikon DX AF-S NIKKOR 55-300mm 1: 4.5-5.6G ED VR SWM HRI. So that's what I mean.) With a native lens in Live View mode, you can increase the “+” picture to the maximum and it does not slow down, and from 55-300, after 2x pluses, the brakes start as Arkady wrote. Two pluses, the review is fast and cool, and then the FPS drops sharply.
Unsubscribe from someone like with other lenses.
Hello again.
I was wrong. Just checked, the brakes come with any lens after two pluses.
But!
If you turn on a constant tracking focus, the brakes disappear.
You can get out to the maximum and everything goes smoothly.
It’s strange. Maybe write to Nikon. Suddenly, the men do not know?)
Hello. You can write, of course. I just don’t understand what these manipulations are for. Isn't it easier to stupidly through the JVI, with AF-C if the object is moving toward you (away from you), with AF-S in other cases?
I would like to not see the brakes in manual mode.
And it turns out in autofocus, where it is not necessary, the function works, but there is no manual mode.
You expect a lot from the camera 3000 series =)
I would try to change the flash drive
Arkady, hello.
At the moment, the question arose about buying a DSLR for a photo - goods are mainly (not macro) and so - an amateur photo! In addition, there is a need for video recording. More or less decent quality in modern formats. Before that I worked only with film and since that time there are two excellent and suitable lenses Nippon Kogaku 50/2 and 28 / 3,5. Professionally refined in Ai. What is the question - I am considering buying a D7000 or D3300. The first one will like the rheostat and there will be no problems with my old glasses. The second one wins in video shooting and has a lever for the extreme position of the aperture. What to choose based on your experience and will the above glasses work on the D3300? Thank you in advance for your response.
BB is lying a lot, even during daytime street photography the frames are overexposed, Arkady wrote about this problem at 3200, maybe it's just my camera is buggy?
WB does not affect the “overexposure” of frames in any way. Shoot in AV mode. Control the exposure with the histogram and nothing will be overexposed or overcooked. Well, fill up your knowledge base - read what ETTR is and why it is.
If you now choose from a used one - nikon d3300 or nikon d5200, focus on focusing accuracy, picture quality. Thanks in advance for your reply.
I won't say anything about the picture quality and focusing accuracy :), since too different lenses hang on them and, in general, I haven't figured it out yet: on the D3300 I have an adapter with a lens for M42, a chip, and a Meyer-Optik Domiplan 50/2,8 ,eight; and on D5200 DX VR 55-300 (I took it for a long time). Subjectively, the color is pleasant both there and there. The main difference in my subjective opinion is the absence of the left row of keys on the screen and the screen itself, i.e. his mobility. Before the purchase, I thought that the swivel screen is a huge plus (I like to shoot from unusual angles, I tend to "reportage") D5200. After about a week of use, the lack of the keys I needed and "don't understand how to arrange it" got tired of it :). It is logical to turn it inward for safety, but I am used to periodically assessing what and how it turns out - turning the screen is crap and wildly time-consuming, if you protrude it to the side, it’s scary to break it off ... I must say that before I tried it myself, I was amazed why such were not they put it everywhere, now after trying it I am amazed why such a design is still alive. Although there may be some convenient scheme and I simply did not find it. At the same time, having D200, D300 and D700 in simultaneous use, I am surprised how cleverly Nikon makes amateur cameras unsuitable for any convenient use. Well done.
D3300 + chip adapter with lens + Schneider Edix-Xenar 50 / 2.8. Surprisingly, on the D40 I could not get sharp photos without moire from it.
D3300 + chip adapter with lens + Schneider Edix-Xenar 50 / 2.8. On-camera JPEG, without processing, only compress to an acceptable size.
Good day. I want to purchase an apparatus for amateur photo and video blogging. This will be my first SLR. I consider as an option nikon d3300. Advise. Thanks. :)
Nikon’s video is not very good, especially in terms of autofocus.
my D3200 is already outdated. what do you think is better to take- D3300 with mileage of 9000 frames or D7000 mileage of 33000
D300s or D3s, if you like Nikon so much.
I’m not yet mature enough
After the D3200, it’s logical to switch to at least the D7100
Interestingly, what do you think it is outdated in comparison with the D3300?
for me personally, my morally outdated. and he already has a mileage of about 90K, he often began to smear on all lenses. yes, I know 3300 is almost the same. At first I generally wanted to take 3200 again. for lovers this is enough
Hand over 3300 to the service and continue filming with it. 90k is not obsolete, but a need for maintenance.
Arkady, Anatoly D3200.
There is no concept of "obsolete". There are certain criteria by which the device does not suit. The camera is not a dress that is no longer fashionable this season.
For example, I want to:
1. Higher working ISO
2. The presence of a "screwdriver"
3. Fast flash sync
4. Ability to control the flash remote from the device via infrared
5. Faster burst speed.
6. Higher video quality.
7. The presence of an additional LCD screen
8. Full frame
9. Swivel screen
Etc. Based on a set of "Wishlist" make a choice.
Believe me, the old device in the professional segment will be much cooler than the new in the amateur segment, and the price may even be lower. In the secondary market naturally.
I wanted to give a comment on the 4th point. This is not the first time you have written about controlling an external flash using the built-in flash in command mode via infrared. Control is not via the IR channel, but by the encoded light flux from the flash lamp (not IR).
Thank you for your attention to my comments.
Usually, when describing command flash control modes, the question "how is this done physically?"
Therefore, I will give part of the article where there is a mention of this issue.
“There are various ways to remotely control flashes, but modern flashes and cameras use more advanced algorithms with many complex functions controlled right from the camera. This control block is called Master (Canon) or Commander (Nikon). Only top-end flashes have this block. Younger models can only work as on-camera flashes. or as slaves for wireless control.
The slave can be controlled in various ways: optical, IFRED or radio. Most advanced devices, including large studio flashes, support all three methods, as well as the fourth with a sync cable. ”
More details here:
https://photo-monster.ru/books/read/polnoe-rukovodstvo-po-nakamernyim-vspyishkam.html
I explain.
Optical control - using a light trap on the slave flash. The leader does "puff", and the follower works from him. Only manual mode is available.
Infrared control (in a number of advanced cameras, the command mode via the IR channel is available when using the built-in flash) - the master flash makes a CONTROL "puff" to determine the required exposure and transmits the processed data via the IR channel to the slave. Both manual and TTL modes are available. Moreover, directly in the device, you can set the necessary compensation in the settings if the slave flash is closer / farther from the subject than the device itself or is directed towards the ceiling. After all, the built-in flash determined the exposure precisely for the current distance between the object and the apparatus.
This CLS command mode also allows you to digitally transmit information through several channels so that other photographers do not interfere with photo shoots and master classes. The camera and flash pre-insist on coordinated communication channels. Control via IR channel in the room allows you to work at a distance of up to 10 meters. On the street, especially on a sunny day, the distance can be reduced to 1 meter.
The control over the radio channel is functionally no different from the control over the IR channel, but it allows you to fire the flash at a distance of up to 100 meters. For this, radio synchronizers are required: on the camera (transmitter) and on the flash (receiver). Advanced flash units have a built-in radio signal receiver.
By the way, not all radio synchronizers provide full flash operation in TTL mode. Some (YN-603) provide only the ignition of an external flash in manual mode.
I recommend a pair of YN-622TX / C.
In addition to controlling the flash, you can remotely control the device (!). For example, when it is mounted on a tripod near the bird feeder, and you, in order not to frighten the animals, go a few tens of meters. For this, 3 cables are provided in the kit from the synchronizer to the camera for various cameras.
That is, for radio control, or IR requires an additional device? Here, on the forum, they usually mean a system like CLS Nikon, through the optical channel.
To control over the radio, you really need an additional device on the camera. My YN568EX II flash does not have a built-in radio receiver, so I needed a pair of synchronizers - YN622N-TX on the device and YN622N on the flash.
The command mode of the Nikon CLS, as I already wrote, can also be optical via the IR channel. For advanced devices, to control the remote flash via infrared, additional devices are not required.
Optical channel is an incorrect term. It is better to call the optical mode, since this is a primitive launch of the slave flash through the light trap from the leading pulse.
But the IR channel is an applicable term, since assumes the transmission of encrypted data in digital form, followed by decoding of the data in the slave flash and execution of the command. By the way, the reception of data in the slave flash is done by the same light trap photocell, only the data is sent by the camera in pulse width coding, just like from the TV remote control. Not all cameras have the ability to control an IR slave flash using the built-in flash to pre-determine the exposure. But not all on-camera flashes have a MASTER mode. For example, my flash only works in SLAVE mode. But my D80 and D610 have MASTER mode on their own. In cameras that do not have such an opportunity, you will need 2 flash units - the master and the slave (master and slave). There will already be a flash installed on the camera to send “an encryption from Alex to Eustace”. Flashes with such bells and whistles are not cheap, so a radio synchronizer will be cheaper and more reliable here, especially since the disadvantage of the IR channel is the illumination of the photocell with constant light sources, which reduce the sensitivity and shorten the control distance. Again, the same as in controlling the same TV using the IR remote control.
PS When buying a second on-camera flash a couple of years ago, I wanted to save some money and bought a Triopo TR-982 II on Ali, which has the same functionality as the YN568EX. Covered after three days of shooting!
A bit will have to be fixed. If the camera has a built-in pykhu, then it can, in some models, transfer parameters of the pyh to the external pyyha precisely by the PWM of the built-in pyyha. It's about Kenon. I do not use Nikon.
CLS is organized by the light channel. Visible light, or infrared - only depends on the control device.
But the simple mode of firing a remote flash from a single pulse in Nikon is the SU-4 mode.
https://radojuva.com/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/
Do not mislead people! Nikonov's built-in flash does not give a pure infrared light pulse (because there is the most common flash lamp). It gives an ordinary light pulse of a given duration (more precisely, a series of pulses). Of course, if you cover the built-in flash with a dark film, then we will actually get IR control, because the flash gas-discharge flash lamp emits light in a wide range, incl. IR and UV.
To obtain IR control without masturbation, you need SU-800 on the camera. And I do not know other branded (original) modules, and it has an ordinary flash lamp, closed by dark glass, respectively, almost not emitting light in the visible range. But the photodetector, in principle, what kind of light to perceive on the drum, the electronics of the receiver simply track a sharp change in the level of illumination, often the photodetector itself is behind dark glass, including to cut off excess illumination (from devices that do not give light to IR range).
This is a response to another comment, but the level of nesting does not allow us to answer it. About using the built-in puff. I don’t shoot on Nikon, but on Kenon to use the built-in fire to control the external, you can reduce its power level to 1/128, while the external fire still sees this pale fire, but it can no longer have any effect on the light circuit :)
maybe it does when the model has extra glare in the eyes
Alexei, not in the know about Canon, in Nikon, in the settings you can choose for the built-in flash either firing + control of an external flash, or just controlling without firing (that is, there will be no effect on the light picture at all). In the latter case, the light pulse is weak, short, and occurs before the shutter releases. In general, in the i-TTL mode, a series of preflashes takes place to evaluate exposure and correct the power of the external flash. These preflashes are so fast and not strong that the human eye simply does not see them.
There is no IR control unless it is some additional specific device. Consider the example of Nikon in conjunction with the D90 camera and SB-600 flash. There is no IR emitter on the camera (only IR receiver for the remote control ML-L3). The built-in flash does not emit in the infrared range, if these are not spurious components of the emission spectrum. This flash only works in SLAVE mode. If we take the flash with the MASTER function, for example, the SB-800, for example, it does not have infrared emitters for command control, and those built-in infrared emitters that are on it (as well as on the youngest, 600th) are only for additional autofocus highlighting.
I agree with you. The information is actually transmitted by a series of pulses from the flash lamp itself. IR - receive only. I mistakenly thought that information is transmitted through the autofocus illumination. I checked it by closing the backlight lamp - the external flash fires.
Comments are accepted!
The data transfer protocols built-in puffs kenon and nikon are on the network, everything has been studied and written down by competent user engineers for a long time)
Any xenon lamp still emits in the IR, and in the UV range, and therefore the photodiodes in the flash meters are always closed by an IR Cut filter. However, all this has nothing to do with the topic of managing external puffs, of course :)
It relates so that you can hook up a homemade light filter to a built-in or on-camera flash and control the remote flash units without affecting the light circuit :-)
(since in the CLS mode the control flash still gives a small sync pulse, and it is impossible to completely exclude the influence of the master flash on the light circuit)
thanks for the comments. I’ll still snap it with my 3200, although it’s specifically grains in the room
Among Nikon's crops, the D3200 and D7500 may be better than the D500 in terms of noise, the rest (D7100 / 7200/5200 +) are built on ± identical matrices, and the noise difference will be minimal (due to different software algorithms). If you want a significant reduction in noise at high ISOs in poor lighting conditions - you need to go to FF. Or buy flashes to add light and learn to use them correctly.
But you understand that there is no such thing as cheap and high quality. It is necessary to leave the amateur segment for advanced cameras. Look at DXoMark - on which devices and to which ISO you can climb without noticeable noise. Since it is more correct - this is not a grain but the thermal noise of the matrix, which, after processing by the processor, gives a picture similar to a film grain. If we consider the uniform shadow areas of the image, then we can see that they are all in "colored speck". On the D80, the noise was already infuriating at ISO400.
Why did I put this parameter as the first item. Because of this, I changed the device, and gave the D80 to my daughter. For a year, and she outgrew it. And also the main disadvantages: low working ISO, abutting against noise and insufficient tenacity of autofocus. I had to buy a D610. She shoots already on a professional level. By the way, professional lenses on the FF really opened up.
I think that many creative personalities filled their nostrils with amateur equipment and lost interest in such a wonderful hobby.
Good luck to you! Do not drop the photo!
ISO 1600 on your device should be normal. If it is not enough and you have to raise the sensitivity even higher, then it's time to add light. Buy an external flash and forget about grain.
Please help me choose a set of carcass and lens. I've already broken my whole head! Tasks: subject shooting of jewelry for an online store, instagram and advertising on the Internet. The work is planned in a home studio, from a tripod, light, reflectors and everything else will be purchased, i.e. it won't be dark. The priority is maximum sharpness and color rendering. I understand that in the carcass, the sharpness can be affected by the absence of OLPF. But at the moment I cannot afford a decent lens, and I understand that the miracles of sharpness will still not be seen on a whale lens, even if the matrix has potential.
In general, my choice of camera is now between the D90, D3300 and D5200. I would like the D5300 in general, but it differs sharply in price.
And which inexpensive lens can perform as well as possible at a focal length of 60-80mm? It is desirable if the lens is macro. It is possible without autofocus.
To be honest, I’m even ready to start studying at the whale 18-55, tk. 55 is almost 60 (or 18-105 in the case of the D90).
I also want to control the camera from Lightroom, but there is no 3000 series in the official list of supported cameras.
Sorry for the confusion, I will be glad to any answer.
As for me, the d5200 will be the best camera for you. It is quite modern, with a good matrix and is quite inexpensive (you can take a carcass for 10 thousand). There is definitely no point in overpaying for 5300, if the picture from it is better (which I personally doubt), then by a couple of percent. Look at the lens, it's a big one, Sigma and Tamron had something inexpensive, I won't say the exact model, because it's not my genre.
Judging by the size of the photos on Instagram and online stores, you can shoot with your phone) So you can try with a whale, the main thing is to make a light and, perhaps, macro rings will be needed. There is a manual Tokin 90, popular Tamron 90mm. In principle, you can take any makrik you find.
I work with Nikon d3300 no worse than with more bulky carcasses. It is convenient with him and not a single upset or dissatisfied client. The main thing is hands from the right place and the rule of light.
Comrades, I am a noob in photography, I came to the photo studio to see the camera, I stuck the synchronizer into my hot shoe, and nothing happened. They say Nikons suffer from the disease of incompatibility. Tell me who knows how Nikon D3300 can connect to external flash like Godox DS 400ii
Incompatibility can only be in automatic flash modes, the synchronizer must be ignited
the link to the archives with the photo is no longer working
maybe it seems to me, but the D80 is much nicer than the D3000 in terms of colors.