According provided by Nikon D750 camera many thanks to Alexander Logachev.
For those who do not like to read a lot: Nikon D750 was announced on 11.09.2014/XNUMX/XNUMX and so far is Nikon's best amateur CZK. That's all :)
Nikon D750 BODY
All tabular data can be found on the official website, I don’t want to retell the same parameters once again that wander from one review to another. In this mini-review, I will only leave my own impressions of using the Nikon D750.
I want to warn you that on the official sites nikon.ru, nikon.ua, nikon.kz and even europe-nikon.com, the Nikon D750 is located in the section 'Professional SLR Digital Cameras' (proof image). This information is not true and is a marketing ploy. Or maybe the world just went crazy and the level of 'professional equipment' fell below the plinth.
Unfortunately, my favorite site imaging.nikon.com, although it remains more honest, nevertheless went along the paths indicated by the marketers and deleted the professional / amateur equipment separation directories, leaving only one large list (proof link) Even the vile Pedivikia puts the D750 on a par with D700 (proof link) At the same time, the fact that the Nikon D750 is still an amateur camera (ENTHUSIAST DSLR) can be easily verified on nikonusa.com (proof link) Sneaky marketers generally try to pass off the D750 as the first camera in some new weight category, even adding it to the Nikon NPS lists.
I lead to the fact that sometimes, when choosing a camera, users are guided not only by its capabilities, but also by positioning in a certain segment. Do not follow the lead of marketers, be vigilant!
Nikon D750 - something in between Nikon D610 и Nikon D810... Unfortunately, Nikon D750 is not a direct replacement for the legendary old lady Nikon D700... When Nikon D750 came out, I was very upset that everything in Nikon D750 is very cool, but all this 'beauty' is housed in a body with amateur controls.
Nikon D750 with lens Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 4G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat
Personally, I absolutely love the Nikon D750. To the question 'Is it worth changing Nikon D700 on the new Nikon D750 'I can definitely answer - it's worth it.
At the same time, Nikon D750 still cannot reach some of the heights conquered by the 'XNUMX':
- D700 It has a full metal case, the D750 has a composite case, with a composite front.
- Minimal excerpt у D700 is 1/8000 sec. against 1/4000 sec. the D750. This difference is often sucked around on the forums, in fact, for real work it has no fundamental value, you will find details on this issue in my article '1 / 4000 vs 1 / 8000'.
- excerpt flash sync D700 makes 1/320 sec., against 1/250 sec. at the D750.
- Nikon D700 has a protective eyepiece shutter (what is she for?).
- the maximum burst speed for the D700 is 8 fps versus 6.5 fps for the D750. This is critical for sequential shooting.
- The D700 can use the MB-D10 butlock with the optional BL-3 cover, which allows the use of large and very capacious EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a batteries from flagship cameras Nikon D3, D3s, D3x, which significantly increases the number of shots taken on a single battery. Nikon D750 can only use standard EN-EL15 batteries in its butblock.
- The D700 can use uncompressed RAW files with full raw data read from the camera's image sensor. The D750 can only use Lossless RAW format for maximum photo quality. Both cameras can use 14-bit color depth. What is it and what it is eaten with you will find in the section '12 bit raw VS 14 bit raw'.
- with the same RAW compression settings (14 bit, lossless compression), the Nikon D700 buffer stores 17 frames, the Nikon D750 buffer only 12 frames.
- Nikon D700 can shoot in TIFF format.
- viewfinder magnification Nikon D700 is 0.72X versus 0.70X for Nikon D750. Although, at the same time, the D750 has 100% frame coverage, compared to 95% for the D700.
- The D700 uses a professional memory card form factor - CF, D750 – SD (SDHC, SDXC). But at the same time, the D750 has two memory card slots.
In all other respects, the Nikon D750 is either better or at the same level as the Nikon D700.
Nikon D750 with lens Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM
I would also like to dwell on the focus module. Nikon D750 first uses focus module Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX II, which, at least theoretically, is better than all its predecessors. The operating range of this module is from -3 to +19 EV. At the same time, D4,D4s, D800,D800E, D810, D810a operating range is -2 to +19 EV A good focusing module was severely lacking in cameras Nikon D600, D610 and Nikon Df. On the other hand, it's a pity that Nikon has not yet come up with a really new focusing system and continues to build all its sensors based on the Multi-CAM 3500FX, shown back in 2007.
Working with the D750, I had no complaints about the focusing system. I can't say for sure how much better it is than that of the Nikon D700, but what's no worse is for sure. But when working, it seems that the coverage area of the focus points is slightly reduced compared to the D700.
I was also very pleased that at last “Father Nikon” heard the prayers of his followers and improved the color rendering. Now, an acceptable color in JPEG with the D750 can be obtained immediately, without strong dances with a tambourine. But if you dig into RAW with non-native converters, then everything becomes not so rosy :(. Generally, many people do not like the color in Nikon D750 pictures, especially skin tone (skin color in portraits). Color has its own specifics, which is superimposed on many rumors and myths.
Prices for Nikon D750 in popular stores can look at this link.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
In comments Can I ask you a question on the topic and you will answer, and you can also express your opinion or describe your experience. Many little things for a photo can be found on AliExpress.
You can download RAW source files at this link (71 files in .'NEF 'format, 2 GB) + at this link (40 file in .'NEF 'format, 1 GB). All photos were shot with Nikon D750. All photos in this gallery are on-camera JPEG without processing. Then I'll add more examples.
Nikon D750 with lens Tamron AF 28-75mm f / 2.8 SP XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)
When working with the camera, which I visited in the review, I did not find problems with glare, which are a kind of failure in the Nikon D750. But still it’s very disappointing that after the unsuccessful Nikon D600 the company again launched a raw product on the market, fortunately, if there is such a drawback in the D750, then it can be eliminated free of charge (proof link).
The bottom line:
Nikon D750 turned out to be a very nice camera, almost completely balanced camera, which was very important after a long absence of replacement for the D700. I can't say the D750 is a complete replacement for the Nikon D700, but the D750 itself is a very attractive camera.
If don't know which camera and lens to choose, then my article will help with this - Which Nikon amateur DSLR camera and lens to choose?
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Having caught the carcass of a Nikon D750, you should be able to sell the camera, but the camera will be guaranteed. What does it mean? Original chi analog? Does the seller sell himself a guarantee? Yakbi virobnik buv tіlki Japan і that food didn’t win, b і so clearly. And then iRina iItaylan.
Official means a guarantee from Nikon, no matter where the production is located, during the guarantor. term can be repaired or changed free of charge. "Gray" - the same camera, but imported unofficially, the store gives some kind of guarantee for it.
Valery A dyakoy for an explanation about the guarantee.
Arkady, Hello! Tell me, what would you recommend - change the lens / you, or replace the crop with a full-frame camera?
I have a D5100 camera, with 35mm 1.8 and a 17-55mm tamfron.
Thought to take the D750 camera (with these lenses) or maybe take better fixes? The budget is either for the camera or for the lenses.
I rent a family, a birthday, a few couples and activities.
Thanks in advance! Waiting for your reply :)
If commercial shooting, then still go to full frame
Does anyone know what kind of external flash voltage is acceptable? Old Unomat B24 will not burn it? On the D7000, it works fine, in theory, it should do the same, but somehow it’s scary :)
This flash did not alter? She had long had to burn the D7000 without rework.
No, it was not altered, it was not burned. When I connected it, I did not know about such dangers at all: -O And then I read in the instructions for the D7000 “… voltage over 250 V can damage the synchronization circuits of the camera and the flash”, i.e. obviously not 5-15 V is permissible, but more, and the camera quite tolerates this flash. And as with the D750, I have not figured it out yet.
Usually there are about 300 volts, this is clearly more than 250 (you can accurately measure with a high-resistance tester with a resistance of at least 10 megohms, do not measure with cheap).
In any case, it’s easier to upgrade the flash, and not worry about the camera.
From the instructions
The original Unomat circuitry has a 300 volt boot voltage. The permissible voltage on the shoe for most modern cameras is 5-15 volts. As they say - think for yourself, decide for yourself ...
The entire flash rework is a four-piece diagram that solders in 10 minutes.
Owners of the Nikon D750, help with advice. I have the Lenses of the Arsenal MS Mir-24N 2/35, MS Helios-81N 2/50, MS Kaleinar-5N 2.8 / 100, Telear-N 3.5 / 200. My question is, if I purchase the Nikon D750, can I use this optics with it? Will the mount fit? Will auto metering work on the camera? Will the aperture close automatically to the set value when the shutter is released? Will the camera give a signal (sound, light) when the lens hits the sharpness? I know that all these functions work with Nikon D7000 Nikon D700 cameras.
Arkady has an article on how these lenses work with Nikon. Look at the list of articles.
I also have Nikon.
EGO plus is that it without a chip at all gives confirmation of focus in the lower left corner. It's comfortable. Almost always - for sure. And the circle burns in the redistribution of the entire grip, and does not pick pointwise, like in Canon.
The problem with NIKON cameras is that they have a flange too long for M42 lenses.
Without a lens, he will not focus on infinity.
And with a lens - there will be a loss in quality, as this is an extra element in the optical scheme.
As simple as for Canon, finding an adapter with a chip is more difficult.
You have a wonderful old lens - Helios 81H, it is already originally with a Nikon F mount, that is, it fits without problems on all Nikon DSLRs and even displays the aperture on the display.
And metering works without problems on all lenses using any (with or without a chip) M42 to Nikon adapter.
Summary:
Read Arkady's article about Soviet lenses on Nikon. To see the issue systemically.
Buy M42 adapters for M42 thread (you have most optics with this mount)
And additional thread on the M39.
But the fundamental difference, the D750 or some other cameras will definitely not.
Thank you, Maria. And what is your Nikon model?
Focus picking in the sense that it is open on Sonya - not a single Nikon has (but I can be wrong). This is when the entire area in focus is highlighted.
To be honest, I haven’t come across such an exposure metering.
I've always had a Nikon D90, but now I got carried away with photography and decided to try full frame - and now there is also a D800.
The signal, as I already wrote, is only in the form of a dot (I have at least), but this is because I have not tried the adapter with the chip. On Nikon, I only have everything with a lens.
It seems that only Lushnikov is releasing chips to Nikon (I can be mistaken, it is better to ask Arkady)
The lenses that my friends gave me to try - Jupiter 37A, Helios M39 and M42, Helios 81H, Volna, Tair 3.
As for the exposure metering, the f-number is not displayed for me (writes 2 or 2.8), except for 81H. But I somehow got used to it by eye, although in many old models there is a smooth change. And the exposure meter itself works quite well, in my understanding. Where it is dark - shows the indicator on the left, where overexposed - on the right. How accurate - I did not measure.
On the D800 - + there are also arrows that help determine the border of blur.
Well something like that.
Maria, you used M800 lenses on the Nikon D42, and installed them through an adapter with a lens. what do you think was the quality of the picture? Was there infinity?
Infinity is)
There were three points:
1) I’m still the photographer, I can’t boast with skills, I shot only for the test
2) a little veil on the open, I shot at 3.5
3) the session was in the evening, so the quality began to decline rapidly
After that, I somehow quickly switched to Nikon 81N.
And on the D800 and D90, it began to put lenses with alterations at infinity (Converted Jupiter37A, Tair).
And for the manaul optics, Canon rented it and am already studying on it. In my opinion, he even has some kind of artistry for portraits.
I think that especially in the evening all-taik landscapes are better not to shoot on Helios. Or wait for a very successful lighting.
So-so examples
https://sun9-43.userapi.com/c855028/v855028745/173dba/_1Js4Mk0v7E.jpg
https://sun9-44.userapi.com/c855028/v855028745/173dd8/VfcYbPODkQM.jpg
https://sun9-21.userapi.com/c855028/v855028745/173cf0/rGKs1UbFeBU.jpg
But on Gelik 81N it turns out clearer.
https://sun9-67.userapi.com/c858228/v858228902/105a20/zlbE6CGghjE.jpg
https://sun9-28.userapi.com/c855020/v855020647/1a9d49/J-knW_QkyIY.jpg
Even with my non-super skill, it’s clear that the picture is too plastic and transparent. In general, I have not been able to squeeze any of this out of it yet. Maybe in the future it will be better to get it) Native manual Nikkor I get a little better landscape.
I hope something was useful.
Thank you, Maria. I see that you are interested in Soviet glasses. Not a few Soviet lenses passed through my hands. What I liked was left in my collection. The optics that I listed in the first appeal is just a small part. If you want to ask something about Soviet glasses (not for sale), write colyaantonow@yandex.ru
PS I liked your pictures.
I asked these questions about the Nikon D750 because when viewing this review https://yandex.ru/video/preview?filmId=7635509065459144438&text=canon+6d+mark+ii+или+nikon+d750&url=http%3A//ok.ru/video/9178252586
The presenter said the Nikon D750 lacks FOCUS PEAKING. Maria, I heard that Nikon D3XXX series cameras with manual optics are not good friends, there are no metering, it doesn’t signal when the lens gets into sharpness. So I wanted to know how the Nikon D750 was doing?
Nikolay, here is a picture on D750 + Helios 81H
So, judging by the picture, the d750 is not very good friends with manual optics? Is there a clear front focus?
Color…. No, let's not talk about color better.
Everything should work the same as on 7000 and 700
Thank you.
Hello!
For a long time I own the D90, rarely shoot, mostly reporting for myself and friends. I thought of changing the camera to something of the same level or slightly higher, but not fabulously expensive. But still, so that the difference is palpable. In 90, it was often not enough to unscrew the ISO properly, and autofocus with a screwdriver worked extremely slowly. I want changes in the direction of better shooting in low light conditions
750 looks like a very interesting option, though not cheap.
In vain you want to part with the old camera. Firstly, it will go for nothing and will not add a tangible plus to the budget of the purchase.
Secondly, in conditions of good daylight, the D90 works wonders. Crop has its advantages in several genres. I speak from my own experience, sometimes it’s very convenient when there are two or even three working cameras with lenses with different fr. Concert, some events are always interesting to shoot immediately in different sizes. You mentioned the report.
In terms of video, I have no idea how to do a competent installation without recording from a second camera.
If in doubt, take the 600th. will not work, you can sell.
Actually, I could be wrong, but it always seemed to me that the 600-610 differs from the 750 mainly in autofocus. There are fewer points. The matrix is the same, the resolution is the same. The output is the same picture resolution.
In practice, I can’t tell which is better.
Maybe experts will answer.
And the price of 600 is lower
I would now immediately advise taking a larger camera. Of course, this is a new level of quality and with ISO, basically.
Not a cheap concept - a relative one. 40k for a good full-frame camera like D800, in principle, is not a pity. Nikon can be checked for mileage using a test shot.
Although yes, ISO is also lower than YOU mentioned this.
But still, things are better than the D90
Take 750 without hesitation, camera fire. I liked more than 810 ki (subjectively)
Hello. Advise in the choice, 750 or 810, the difference in price is 650 $. I shoot mostly people, maybe in the future I’ll take pictures of weddings / celebrations. A good comp for 36mp is available. It’s just that according to technical characteristics in all parameters, the 810 is an order of magnitude higher, except for the burst speed. It is important how it is with color / skinton and autofocus. Honestly, the 750 skinton is not very good for everyone to say. I don’t want to sell my old d3000 because of the colors, I almost never have to edit by color, but the d5300, frankly, I’ve already gotten into trouble with the skin. So autofocus and skinton are important. Thanks.
When I chose it in the spring, I stopped at 750. At 810: a larger weight of files (in addition to processing, they must also be stored); Bigger problems with micro-lubrication. At 750 with AF all is well. I looked at the D850, but expensive for me.
In 750, I do not like the stripped-down extra. display (marketers gave the task to engineers to make the carcass thinner, hence a lot of problems that engineers heroically solved), due to the reduced display, some settings (even with buttons!) are made through the main display (for example, the size and quality of the image)
D810 and D610 officially discontinued. Now they are selling the leftovers.
The D750 will be removed in the spring and a replacement is ready for it, which will be presented in a couple of months:
https://photar.ru/opublikovany-specifikacii-nikon-d780/
I can't recommend any of these cameras - I have a D750, I DO NOT like it and I will throw it off and take either a new product, or a D850, or, as an option, the 4th penny - I fell in love with its color profile (as in 1DX_mk2, but for him you already need to take a mortgage).
Hello!
Please help me deal with an incomprehensible problem for me.
1) The D750 camera is new under warranty.
2) All factory settings.
3) P shooting mode plus built-in flash, matrix metering, ISO and white balance automatic, TTL flash mode, indoor shooting.
The problem is this: in the viewfinder, the exposure indicator indicates that the picture will be underexposed by more than 2 steps. Ignoring this information, I get a very good picture, and accordingly, when making a correction, I get a black mass instead of a photo.
I don’t want to believe that something is wrong with the camera. I did not find anything in the instructions.
Please help me figure it out.
Thanks in advance.
Best regards,
Michael.
What kind of lens, and why do you use P mode at full frame?
With the D750 and with any Nikon camera, there is a beautiful, very detailed manual that allows even a novice to understand all the camera settings.
What exactly are the ISO settings?
Good evening.
Lens Nikkor 28-300 3.5 \ 5,6.
P mode was used more quickly for testing than if necessary. But what is interesting, the situation is the same for priority modes.
ISO settings: ISO-100 sensitivity, automatic ISO sensitivity control - off.
I read everything in the user manual regarding working with the built-in flash, but alas, I did not find the answer.
Thanks for the reply.
Best regards,
Michael.
It should be so. The exposure meter shows you the values of the picture that will be taken without using the flash.
Arkady, thank you very much. This explains everything.
Best regards,
Michael.
This, by the way, on all Nikon cameras, not only d750
Interesting, of course, the logic of the Japanese comrades. Select the flash mode - the exposure meter displays data for shooting without a flash, turn off the flash - the exposure meter readings disappear altogether. It's a mystery to me.
Thank you,
Best regards,
Michael.
No, it is not. Metering readings always work, both with flash and without flash.
Just checked again. Aperture priority mode, flash off. The exposure indicator is neither in the viewfinder nor on the control panel. Sorry, but it is.
Best regards,
Michael.
Everything is there. With zero correction, the deviation of the exposure meter and the scale itself are not shown since the exposure is at zero. As soon as you add + - or a deviation occurs due to the impossibility of correct exposure under current conditions, it is immediately displayed on the scale, both in the JVI and on the information display.
The exposure indicator is not always on, press the shutter button, it will appear.
Michael says that this indicator does not show him even when the measurement is on (the pressed AF activation button, or during operation until it is turned off). On d750 at + -0, this indicator is hidden both in the JVI and on the information display (which is called by the i / info button)
When you open the flash, your shutter speed will most likely become 1/60 and therefore the exposure indicator indicates that the picture will be underexposed. When you close the flash, the shutter speed becomes slower and the exposure indicator turns to 0 and disappears from the screen.
Set in the menu “e2 -> Flash exposure” the shutter speed is 30 sec. then when you open the flash, the exposure indicator will show 0.
Amendment to previous comment:
The same situation is in aperture priority mode.
You guys are right. Everything is as you say.
Thank you very much for your help.
Best regards,
Michael.
I wanted to ask, this camera has a crop mode for glass for crop cameras! And how will the viewfinder display a picture with crop lenses?
There is a “crop 1,5” mode, there is a “crop 1,2” mode. In the settings, you can enable automatic switching to 1,5 crop mode when attaching a DX lens. By default, the fn + wheel button is configured for switching (approximately under the ring finger of the right hand near the mount). When crop mode is turned on, a thick black frame appears in the viewfinder (for modes 1,2 and 1,5 the frames are different) indicating the area to be captured. A frame icon appears in the upper right corner indicating the crop (1,2 or DX). When the backlight is on, it is highlighted in red, like other indicators. “Cropped” is not dimmed (some FF Nikonov have it).
Thank you very much
Yes there is. A rectangular frame will appear, which will indicate the part of the frame that is responsible for the DX.
Thanks Arkady
Did you drop all d800 accounts? Also for a long time I shot for 700 it was time to change. I am faced with the choice of 750/800 on the secondary can be found with minimal mileage, and the price is even below 750. Is it possible to consider it in exchange for 700 matches?
In the spring I looked at 800/810. What confuses (compared to the D750): file weight, micro-lubrication due to the small pixel, frame buffer, diffraction threshold, less battery capacity, no built-in flash, rotary screen weight. Advantages: prof. management, better viewfinder coverage. As a result, took a new carcass D750 :)
Yesterday, when selling a lens, the buyer asked him to show on the camera.
I took the d750 with me.
I inserted the battery, turned on the camera - there was half the charge. In the hands of the client, the camera got stuck - ERR on the upper display and everything is dark in the viewfinder. Just like fuji s3pro last spring.
Turned off the camera - it did not help. I took off the lens and the flash drive - it didn't help. And the client looks (The camera has a range of 12 thousand frames. And the lens is not problematic.
Okay, then I started showing, pressed the shutter button, and like Fuji s3pro, everything worked. The shutter worked. Then mysticism started again - again ERR only not instead of the aperture value, but instead of the number of frames. He turned off the camera again, rechecked the lens - an AF-D screwdriver. Everything on it is normal. I barely managed to persuade the client, promised a moneyback and that I would come myself if anything. In short, they dispersed, but the shame of the PPC. Brought home a camera - pulled out a battery, flash drives. Put 35 / 2d - everything works. Put Tokin 28-70, everything works. Shaitan camera with a range of 12 thousand frames.
Today I started to google - this problem exists both in our country and in the West.
D750 is really problematic and someone changed the shutter for 10 or 50 thousand because of this, they had even worse on the new shutter from ss Nikon than before.
Julia on the forum Nikon recommended to use the batlocks and forget about the Q and MUP modes. And what is there on the d810. The problem concerns power supply and is even on the original sets: Nikon camera + Nikon glass + original Nikon batteries and expensive flash drives.
The repairman got out of the c / c and began to tell the horrors of what Mr. and sticks the camera was made of. The same shutter assembly and shattering shutters. Disappointment has no limits. I want to swear with a three-story mat.
The camera issued errors with and without a lens attached.
can eat fresh firmware? but in general, Nikon loves mowing in cameras. I sometimes got the feeling that Nikon finds the most hand-clasped Japanese (or just the most hand-clasped) for assembling and testing cameras :) I really can’t believe that such jambs are made by the Japanese.
An extreme firmware was installed on the camera. I check 1 time in two months.
To what Nikon has sunk ...
Thanks for the tip, I thought to take a used D610 or a used D750, now I will definitely focus on the first
“The repairman got out of the s / c and began to tell the horrors from which Mr. and the sticks the camera was made. The same shutter assembly and crumbling curtains. There is no limit to disappointment. I want to swear with a three-story obscenity. "
Surprisingly straight. If the camera is really, in the words of the "repairman", made of Mr., then why such a small percentage of calls in the s / c?
And only this model is made from Mr. or the entire Nikon line? Didn't your "repairman" tell you?
The most problematic d600 and d750.
There are enough appeals on them.
The D750 will feed Nikon for many more years. On Avito 2 years in a row, most of the 750s with replaced shutters sold.
I put my camera up for sale. I don’t need such a craft. What are you interested in for?
Did not check, does it behave the same on another battery?
I have two original EN-El15.
The behavior is the same.
My camera number ended up in one of the revocable companies (which was in 2018). The camera was registered on the Nikon website, but there were no alerts from Nikon. In total, there were at least 750 events for d3 to replace the shutter and the rest of the shakiness of this camera. I won’t carry it to the service, just selling it. I won’t buy amateur ff cameras anymore.
Clear.
Why did I ask about the battery - I met a situation when a tired EN-EL3e made the camera shutter (already a strong, experienced D700) odd: the electronics did not fail, but the shutter motor did not work out the shutter speed - it is clear that it did not have enough power.
Especially manifested in the fast series.
(The case is obvious. And of course, the battery is to blame, not the camera / shutter, but decided to share it.)
Yes, I also came across this. My D90 has two batteries. One of them often manifests itself when discharged. And on film F65 it was like that with one set of batteries when they got hooked.
They are unlikely to send alerts to registered camera numbers.
And why not demolish the SC? My camera came under 2 service companies. I gave it to the service, received it a week later. We replaced the focusing sensor (1st service company - glare), replaced the shutter (2nd service), adjusted the carcass, cleaned the matrix. All this took 2 weeks, despite the fact that I live in Minsk. Financial costs are zero.
D750 is already obsolete for free service campaigns. Only for money. And Pokémon got rid of it long ago.
Hello! I read reviews of the camera on various sites and came across the complaint “Flattened RAW files on the camera screen”. What, in fact, can be meant? There is no way to ask the commentator. Best regards, Sergei.
The D750 screens have an unpleasant feature - it lies. Lies in colors and exposure. After D3s and D4, he is not just no, he hurts.
Well, this is bad, but understandable. But flattened raves? A vertically squeezed image - why are you afraid? And only RAW, not JPEG? In general, I initially looked closely at the 700th on the secondary housing. I want a full frame in addition to the F100, I don't shoot video - why overpay for it? A little confused by CF cards - how will they disappear from sale?
CF is the last thing that worries me about these cameras. Even if theoretically they disappear, then there are always Chinese CF-SD adapters. One adapter and use SD / SDHC / SDXC.
CF is an industry standard and they won't go anywhere for a very long time :)
So sir! I did not even suspect the existence of such! Many thanks!
Arkady, good evening! And what exactly excites you in such cameras? Specifically in the D700?
I try not to worry at all. This is a camera, which is why you think and worry about it.
But still, in general, mileage is important. Otherwise, these cameras are repairable and service will solve almost any problem. The main one is a mirror gear, a replacement now costs less than $ 100.
Service can solve any problem. It is only a matter of the cost and advisability of the repair.
D700 is now better not to take. The camera is removed from support, new shutters are no longer supplied.
Thank you)
750ka is generally good! But really kosyachnaya came out! I own it for a couple of years! It's like a wife! Living with her is pleasant but not very enjoyable! I can open one more jamb at 750ki! This jamb is new! that is, from the last installments! So there you go! Very casually noticed after shooting at night! Since he often took off maximum until the evening and did not notice this! In short, the situation is this! If you shoot at night and set it to say from 6400 or higher, it appears in the frame from the bottom of the frame horizontally, the entire length from the corner to the corner at the bottom of the frame! A distinct gradient of noise is seen! Some kind of red gradient noise bar! it is at the bottom of the frame all over its width! If in percentage, then somewhere the 10th part of the frame when viewed in height! A certain strip of reddish color in the form of noise! No matter what shutter speeds or iris! The intensity of this band changes only with increasing ISO! Somewhere up to ISO 3200 is invisible! But starting from 6400 is already visible! I emphasize that it is especially visible if you are shooting a very dark object to the city hall at night! So who is thinking what about this !? I asked the entire Runet and Nikon portals! But they hear it for the first time! Yes, I bought a new and white camera! And I forgot but this is not a very well-known identity problem 750ki! The battery heats up very quickly! I would say in the lower right corner in the area of the memory card and battery! For example, after half an hour of heavy use in this place it is already hot! I have only the recommended memory cards and I checked them! In short, the jamb camera came out!
This is thermal noise. from the electronics of the matrix, some have it on the bottom, others on the side.
Fotkal birds on the D750 + Tamron A022 600mm and did not know grief, but then the old man D700 fell into the hands. And now I wondered why I spent so much dough on 750 if there is no difference, nowhere after 750 you can do more digital zoom, but there’s already a lot of smear, and if you put two photos next to the same size, then there’s no difference at all, I can’t move it, 12MP vs 24MP the size of the pictures is 3 times smaller; I feel like a bummer by marketers.
Sanya! The difference is huge! But it is not expressed in just a number of pictures! This difference will be if you start to shoot dynamics fast! That tenacity autofocus in 750ke faster! since there are more points! Further! The difference is significantly higher at 750ke when you start in the dark! high iso for example 6400 at 750ke is better! And much more is better! And by the way! About digital zoom! Having shot a sharp shot! I emphasize sharp, you can correct the cropping by cropping the frame and from 24 megapixels you will have a lot of Pts for printing! But the 700ke with a handful of pixels has nothing to crop! And this is not enough for you?))
To help, be affectionate, like vibrate the NEF (RAW) format. Having added the NIKON D750 camera. I select the format for zyomki in the processing menu, but is there nothing to vibrate, how can it be?
A primer to read poorly?
It's not in the "Retouch menu", but in the "Shooting menu" - "Image quality".
Sorry, but what does this phrase mean in a post from Alex from
15.04.2020/750/750: "well, after XNUMX, you can do more digital zoom, but there is already a daub"? Does Nikon DXNUMX have digital zoom or is this what this friend writes about? And in the next post from
08.04.2020/24/750 Russel wrote: “And by the way! About digital zoom! Taking a sharp shot! I emphasize sharp, you can correct the cropping by cropping the frame and from XNUMX megapixels you will have a lot for printing! ” What is this about? What kind of DIGITAL ZOOM does the D XNUMX mean?
Nikon D700 - 12MP, Nikon D750 - 24MP. Alex laments that he bought the 750 when he was happy with the 700. Digital zoom - the ability to upscale a picture in any editor up to a size of 24MP, that is, up to the size of D750 - it is not clear, however, why do it, except for poster printing. DSLRs do not know how to digital zoom, everything that you need to increase, you increase yourself at the stage of post-processing. Modern algorithms, especially on neural networks, show decent results, pulling out detail. Nowadays, old toys are re-released by amateurs for large resolutions.
Thanks Roman.
Such a problem with the D750 - when you press the ISO button, the main screen with the sensitivity selection menu lights up. Often - right in the eyes! Can this be disabled somehow? Apart from the “convenient ISO”?
It's 2020, I bought myself a d750. Before that there was d7100, and before that there was d300.
Of course, it is incorrect to compare, but although I am not a reporter, after 300 to 7100 I was terribly enraged by no rate of fire. The combination of a small brake buffer and a not very fast rate of fire was killing.
d750 was just a revelation in this regard. Not only does it have a matrix for 2020 that can compete with 810/850, but it is also nimble. Yes, the buffer is less than 300k (12-13) frames for my shooting style (equal and jpeg) versus 15 frames for the d300, but if 300k after the buffer has been used up for a long time, then this hangs minimally. Due to the latter, the d750, NOT being a reportage camera, keeps at the level of the d300, generally surpassing it in speed (not to mention the advantages of FF and a twofold superiority in megapixels (read the severity of the pictures).
Also, I was comparing the grip on the d300 and the d750, and in general, suddenly they are on the same level. The d750 has a more comfortable grip, while the d300, with a less comfortable grip, has an awesome thumb pad with good support. In terms of overall convenience, both cameras are comparable. Due to the weight and build, the 750 doesn't feel half plastic at all (but the 7100 does).
Regarding positioning professional or non-professional - despite the amateur segment, the 750 is very much loved by de facto professionals. Her controls are amateur, but, let's say, a pleasant surprise for me was that she was given the opportunity to put the ISO setting on the video button. It is more convenient for me than for prof. cameras, since now I can change the shutter speed, and aperture, and ISO with one hand. At the same time, the reflexes gained on the 7100 almost do not need to be retrained, since I am used to working with this camera, and the controls for the 750 and 7100 are similar.
Well, 24 megapixels is the ideal "fatness" of the picture for a universal camera. The stock of resolution is more than enough for a 4K monitor, but at the same time there is no feeling of redundancy as on the d7100, where 24 megapixels on the crop were just a damn disaster when the camera gave micro-smears on a tripod from vibration during the operation of its own trigger mechanism at exposures 1/10 - 0,5 ,XNUMX sec
In short, overall I am food with delight and find the camera to be very cool.
Of the minuses, I think that the diopter headroom in the viewfinder is too small, as if even less than in the d7100. It can be solved, but I would like a little more out of the box.
I went the same way to this camera practically, first D5100, then D7100, then D300s. I think there is a natural stop at this unit. A decent device, despite some shortcomings in the form of unnecessary scene modes (it would be better to add more custom settings modes: U3, U4, U5, say), shutter speeds of 1/4000, not 1/8000 - which is not critical at all, but how would it be nice. Well, for me personally, I would also remove the video mode 😊
Good day. I have a question, hello there is such a camera, only without wifi, there is no information on it anywhere. What can you say about this camera? Thanks in advance.
They are all with wi-fi, just the store employees did not indicate correctly.
But there are several other stores like this. And the price is lower. Or is it due to the fact that the guarantee is not official?
There is a version for South Korea, marked with the letter K in the model - Nikon D750K, it does not have a WiFi module, the rest is the same camera.