According provided by Nikon D750 camera many thanks to Alexander Logachev.
For those who do not like to read a lot: Nikon D750 was announced on 11.09.2014/XNUMX/XNUMX and so far is Nikon's best amateur CZK. That's all :)
Nikon D750 BODY
All tabular data can be found on the official website, I don’t want to retell the same parameters once again that wander from one review to another. In this mini-review, I will only leave my own impressions of using the Nikon D750.
I want to warn you that on the official sites nikon.ru, nikon.ua, nikon.kz and even europe-nikon.com, the Nikon D750 is located in the section 'Professional SLR Digital Cameras' (proof image). This information is not true and is a marketing ploy. Or maybe the world just went crazy and the level of 'professional equipment' fell below the plinth.
Unfortunately, my favorite site imaging.nikon.com, although it remains more honest, nevertheless went along the paths indicated by the marketers and deleted the professional / amateur equipment separation directories, leaving only one large list (proof link) Even the vile Pedivikia puts the D750 on a par with D700 (proof link) At the same time, the fact that the Nikon D750 is still an amateur camera (ENTHUSIAST DSLR) can be easily verified on nikonusa.com (proof link) Sneaky marketers generally try to pass off the D750 as the first camera in some new weight category, even adding it to the Nikon NPS lists.
I lead to the fact that sometimes, when choosing a camera, users are guided not only by its capabilities, but also by positioning in a certain segment. Do not follow the lead of marketers, be vigilant!
Nikon D750 - something in between Nikon D610 и Nikon D810... Unfortunately, Nikon D750 is not a direct replacement for the legendary old lady Nikon D700... When Nikon D750 came out, I was very upset that everything in Nikon D750 is very cool, but all this 'beauty' is housed in a body with amateur controls.
Nikon D750 with lens Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1: 4G ED VR SWM IF Aspherical Nano Crystal Coat
Personally, I absolutely love the Nikon D750. To the question 'Is it worth changing Nikon D700 on the new Nikon D750 'I can definitely answer - it's worth it.
At the same time, Nikon D750 still cannot reach some of the heights conquered by the 'XNUMX':
- D700 It has a full metal case, the D750 has a composite case, with a composite front.
- Minimal excerpt у D700 is 1/8000 sec. against 1/4000 sec. the D750. This difference is often sucked around on the forums, in fact, for real work it has no fundamental value, you will find details on this issue in my article '1 / 4000 vs 1 / 8000'.
- excerpt flash sync D700 makes 1/320 sec., against 1/250 sec. at the D750.
- Nikon D700 has a protective eyepiece shutter (what is she for?).
- the maximum burst speed for the D700 is 8 fps versus 6.5 fps for the D750. This is critical for sequential shooting.
- The D700 can use the MB-D10 butlock with the optional BL-3 cover, which allows the use of large and very capacious EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a batteries from flagship cameras Nikon D3, D3s, D3x, which significantly increases the number of shots taken on a single battery. Nikon D750 can only use standard EN-EL15 batteries in its butblock.
- The D700 can use uncompressed RAW files with full raw data read from the camera's image sensor. The D750 can only use Lossless RAW format for maximum photo quality. Both cameras can use 14-bit color depth. What is it and what it is eaten with you will find in the section '12 bit raw VS 14 bit raw'.
- with the same RAW compression settings (14 bit, lossless compression), the Nikon D700 buffer stores 17 frames, the Nikon D750 buffer only 12 frames.
- Nikon D700 can shoot in TIFF format.
- viewfinder magnification Nikon D700 is 0.72X versus 0.70X for Nikon D750. Although, at the same time, the D750 has 100% frame coverage, compared to 95% for the D700.
- The D700 uses a professional memory card form factor - CF, D750 – SD (SDHC, SDXC). But at the same time, the D750 has two memory card slots.
In all other respects, the Nikon D750 is either better or at the same level as the Nikon D700.
Nikon D750 with lens Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF SWM
I would also like to dwell on the focus module. Nikon D750 first uses focus module Advanced Multi-CAM 3500FX II, which, at least theoretically, is better than all its predecessors. The operating range of this module is from -3 to +19 EV. At the same time, D4,D4s, D800,D800E, D810, D810a operating range is -2 to +19 EV A good focusing module was severely lacking in cameras Nikon D600, D610 and Nikon Df. On the other hand, it's a pity that Nikon has not yet come up with a really new focusing system and continues to build all its sensors based on the Multi-CAM 3500FX, shown back in 2007.
Working with the D750, I had no complaints about the focusing system. I can't say for sure how much better it is than that of the Nikon D700, but what's no worse is for sure. But when working, it seems that the coverage area of the focus points is slightly reduced compared to the D700.
I was also very pleased that at last “Father Nikon” heard the prayers of his followers and improved the color rendering. Now, an acceptable color in JPEG with the D750 can be obtained immediately, without strong dances with a tambourine. But if you dig into RAW with non-native converters, then everything becomes not so rosy :(. Generally, many people do not like the color in Nikon D750 pictures, especially skin tone (skin color in portraits). Color has its own specifics, which is superimposed on many rumors and myths.
Prices for Nikon D750 in popular stores can look at this link.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
In comments Can I ask you a question on the topic and you will answer, and you can also express your opinion or describe your experience. Many little things for a photo can be found on AliExpress.
You can download RAW source files at this link (71 files in .'NEF 'format, 2 GB) + at this link (40 file in .'NEF 'format, 1 GB). All photos were shot with Nikon D750. All photos in this gallery are on-camera JPEG without processing. Then I'll add more examples.
Nikon D750 with lens Tamron AF 28-75mm f / 2.8 SP XR Di LD Aspherical (IF)
When working with the camera, which I visited in the review, I did not find problems with glare, which are a kind of failure in the Nikon D750. But still it’s very disappointing that after the unsuccessful Nikon D600 the company again launched a raw product on the market, fortunately, if there is such a drawback in the D750, then it can be eliminated free of charge (proof link).
The bottom line:
Nikon D750 turned out to be a very nice camera, almost completely balanced camera, which was very important after a long absence of replacement for the D700. I can't say the D750 is a complete replacement for the Nikon D700, but the D750 itself is a very attractive camera.
If don't know which camera and lens to choose, then my article will help with this - Which Nikon amateur DSLR camera and lens to choose?
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I add to the question: all the camera settings are the same. I’m never campaigning for D5100, I’m interested to understand why the frames are lighter.
I really hope that my hands are crooked, and not the cant in my D750.
you can attach one frame to the message, for an exact answer why, the main thing is not to wipe the exif
Thanks for the hint about the exif - I found a difference in metering, on the D5100 it was center-weighted, and on the D750 it was matrix. I hope this explains everything. Tomorrow I'll shoot again to make sure.
Lighter / darker is not an indicator in this case, because it is easy to adjust by changing the shutter speed and / or aperture. The light sensitivity of the matrix usually means ISO - its value and image quality. That is, you need to compare exactly the quality (in this case, the amount of noise) of images at the same ISO values, and the higher the ISO is set, the more the difference should be noticeable.
If you want to compare "by light", then you need to take both shots in fully manual mode, setting the same aperture and shutter speed values, because apart from different exposure metering modes, the processing algorithm may differ, and you will get a picture, for example, in priority mode aperture, at the same aperture, but with different shutter speeds. Therefore, the "M" mode and manually set the same settings will better help you understand the difference. Plus, take test shots in conditions of varying difficulty, because the more difficult the shooting conditions, the better the stronger rival will show itself (the more noticeable the difference will be).
Thank you for your reply!
same stuff. darkens slightly. ev +0,3 and normal. although in fact this is not quite the norm. but it doesn’t soar, I manage.
The author does not make people laugh with his opinion about the nikon d750. Anyone who speaks a professional camera in the 21st century with a constant burst of technology is not adequate ...
Everything can be.
Igor, It's simple, do not be clever. The concept of "prof" pulls up not so much functionality and capabilities as sharpening any thing, object, mechanism, etc. for special tasks.
And in BMW and Mercedes, you can transport a brick or tow other cars, but in principle there is a special equipment for this, designed for continuous uptime in this vein !!!
In ordinary jeans you can go hunting or fishing ??? !! Yes! But there is overalls specially created for this in which it will be practical, convenient and durable !!!
All this bears the status of "pro".
And the fact that in the 21st century they inserted a camera and the phone is comparable to a hood in a vest !!!
Arkady makes a constructive, excellent PERSONAL feedback. And just to write “inadequate” is like seeing a Bentley on the street, saying “shit car” and driving a vase.
I personally went the normal way from d90 to d810 and, by personal example, I see what a "professional" technique is and how it works out in different conditions for wear. I’ve already been using d800 for 4 years, up to 100 events a year. These are Weddings at 1500 frames at a time and banquets and just photosets.
It's time to pair the second camera and for me personally it is important that it has the functionality and stability of the “professional” camera !!! That's why I considered 810 for myself. Since the d750 is a raw amateur camera (a little better than 600-610), which I also had. And the difference in their use is enormous.
the last word just killed
Hello. Doesn’t focus on 750m in liveview, if sigma lenses, maybe someone knows how to fix this?
Waiting for a new firmware for the camera or for the lens, but, most likely, this does not heal. Third-party lenses are often moody.
Hello Arkady. Need some advice. I have a Nikon D750. In shooting mode, when changing the parameters of ISO or BB, the information screen lights up. Previously, it seemed there wasn’t such, probably accidentally somehow changed some settings. Maybe you know how to disable this feature, an additional screen is quite enough for me. Thanks in advance.
It is necessary to delve into the menu and / or instructions, I do not remember which function is responsible for this.
Who got the normal colors on the D750 + Nikkor 50 1,4G ?? Indicate what and how? Thanks.
Can I have an example of abnormal colors?
More or less normal skin tone can be obtained from the D750 + Nikkor 50 1,4G bundle in the shade. In all other cases, this "bundle" is clearly not for shooting portraits. I took almost 20000 shots and I see that this half is clearly not on friendly terms with the D750 ((in terms of color rendering.
If you shoot in the RAW format, put all the automation to a minimum, and in the lightroom you should paint your entire face with at least blue. This is the whole point of professional mirrors that you can do everything on RAW that your fontazion allows) but I do not advise on jpg. Although there, with all the bells and whistles turned on, it produces a kind of tolerable picture. Again it depends on the pre-settings. 50 1.4 will not give you beautiful faces you make them yourself. But regarding their joint work in terms of focus and sharpness, yes, even at open chic and shine. And again, I got great instances, for a long time I chose and customized each other)))
Denis
09.01.2018/19/46 at XNUMX:XNUMX Reply
Who got the normal colors on the D750 + Nikkor 50 1,4G ?? Indicate what and how? Thanks.
The question already says a lot))) I bought a car. The car is just super. Has anyone managed to get her?
Where did you read that another Denis has a D750?
Do you guys feel uncomfortable with the narrow upper screen?
No, what are you! There will be a feeling of inconvenience if you fill a fur coat in your pants. And the screen is normal, rectangular, as expected.
good afternoon
I would like to hear the opinion of professionals at the moment I have a Nikon d 5500 in a bunch of Nikkor 85 mm.
I am considering the purchase of a new camera, I settled on the Nikon d 750 and Nikon d 500. I exclusively shoot dogs rarely people. I will be glad to hear an opinion on what is better to choose.
On the full-frame D750, the 85mm lens will take “its place” in the way that focal length was conceived before the advent of digital cameras with a “crop” sensor.
Personally, 85 mm is more convenient for me on a "full" frame (D750), when there was a "cropped" DSLR, I took 85 mm to play for a couple of days, and did not understand the point in this bundle: with such a focal length 85 mm x 1,5 (crop coefficient) = 127,5 mm for a full frame, this is almost a “distant” portrait lens of 135 mm. A very specific distance, as for me. You can forget about shooting indoors, smaller than a gym.
IMHO, for dogs (if not studio shooting, tailed beasts in motion on the street), a zoom of 70-200 mm is more convenient. For static in the studio, if it is the “fixes” that are pleasing, I would choose 50 mm in the full frame.
Nevertheless, despite the advantages of the full frame, I think the D500 camera is more ergonomic, it is indeed a professional series device (referring to the D200, D300), it does not have a useless disc with the “wedding” and “walk” modes (exaggerating, of course) , everything is at hand, making setup as fast as possible. And the camera itself is faster.
To the advantages of the D500 I will add the minimum exposure of a healthy person - 1/8000 seconds, and not castrated by Nikon's marketers 1/4000 in the D750 (in fact, at 85 mm 1.4 in sunny weather I have long forgotten about 1.4).
I recommend the D750 plus a Nikon 80-200 2.8 Mark 3 (70-200 2.8 VR) lens.
85 for portraits, will often smear past running and jumping pets.
I have been working on the Nikon D750 since December 2014. We talked about glare and other nuances, but I still have not found anything in my camera so far, I shot it in different conditions. I like the tracking focus, it works almost flawlessly after the first shot, well, that’s understandable. Color rendition, excellent. Nikon D 7100 is used in parallel, the color difference is palpable. I can’t dare to sell it at all, a quick one and some handy one, it gives good detail! 750 is softer, but the picture is nice, it produces good tones. 6,5 frames suit, I catch all the sporting moments, I don’t grab a bullet on the fly, but everything is available. The clipboard is a little liquid, of course, it slows down. The other day I tried the D850 well, of course it’s just a shine, And what a resolution, at night with hands and frames exceptional, but expensive infection. Nikon D750 is still better !!!
I also bought it in December 2014. I got a flare on the very first day at the office where the camera was brought.
At about 45 degrees from the camera, there was a fluorescent lamp on the ceiling. But since then the glare has not been able to be repeated even once.
The division into professional and amateur cameras is very arbitrary in most cases. And for some reason you are absolutizing these hung labels. Formalism.
Arkady does not absolutize, but explains in detail, doing a good deed - he removes marketing noodles from the ears of site visitors.
However, for example, in online stores it has already come to "premium camera" or "premium lens". And if earlier some thread of a fool asked the question “Do you have a professional camera?”, Now it has come to “Tell me, is this really a lukhari? Yes? Then I'll take it! ”.
And it doesn't matter how they differ, these cameras. The price tag is decent, the nameplate is famous - it means you have to take it. From a photographer's tool, cameras have moved to the shelf next to iPhones.
And in this case, Arkady is 100% right - the D750 is an advanced amateur camera (upper segment). It is enough to simply pick it up by those (without even going into the performance characteristics) who shot on the X and XXX series of Nikon cameras to understand this.
>> It is enough just to pick it up ...
Do not exaggerate. I have d610, d850, d5. Holding in my hands the simplest of the above, I do not feel any sense of "cheapness", "amateur" in terms of build quality and materials. Is that not so thought out controls.
"I do not feel any feeling of" cheapness ""
- I wrote about it somewhere? May I have a quote? Or are you talking to yourself?
"Unless the controls are well thought out."
This is closer.
I will support the previous speaker.
In addition, the division into professional and amateur is by no means conditional, but quite definite. Another thing, a professional can often work with an amateur camera. Well, prof. the device in the hands of an amateur does not mean the pictures of prof. level.
Good day! I bought a D750 for training in a photo school. For the first time I took 50mm f 1,4. Please tell me the universal zoom for shooting children. I choose from 24-85mm f 2,8-4,0, 24-85mm f 3.5-5.6 and 24-120 f4. What will be better in sharpness for shooting children in motion, group and portraits. Not interested in shooting flowers and butterflies, only people and real emotions. Nikon 24-70 f 2.8 not to offer, limited on a budget.
All, in principle, are the same, most like 24-85 3.5-5.6.
But nevertheless, maybe tokina 24-70 2.8? though focus may not fall.
Good afternoon Svetlana! I don’t know how relevant, but the store my opinion, as I chose from similar objects. 1) 24-120f4 wide range, constant aperture, good stabilizer, good optics performance, I can say that the corners pulls strongly, sharpness is the best from the whole list - a little expensive, weight. 2) 24-85 3,5-5.6 good staff, good technical performance, sharpness is slightly weaker in the corners, optimal weight, price 3) 24-85 2,8-4 in the picture did not like soapy in the corners noticeably. I looked all the lenses new in the store on the D700 camera, everything was on my knees))), before comparing, I read the reviews, it was set to 24-85 2,8-4, but I didn't like it, maybe I got such a copy.
Vasily, thank you, but nevertheless I put sharpness as the primary task, because I want to shoot morning performances, children's birthdays, etc. But they are such children, they do not sit much in place. So I want to choose the optimal zoom, so that next to the portrait is not bad, and away group dance.
Well, the pictures. Is this a photographer?
Probably you would like to see test tables here with a colorchecker that photographers usually shoot or photos licked by Photoshop. Here are real untreated frames that are more valuable than gold in the framework of the reviews of Arcadia
Tell me, if you switch from the D5100 to a full-frame Nikon camera, will the 18-55, 55-200 lenses fit there? The bayonet, as far as I understand, is the same, but can I have problems with autofocus?
in crop mode they will work, but why? the price of these 2 lenses is 100 dollars
55-200 in the range from 100 to 200 mm will cover the full frame.
Guys, good afternoon / evening / morning everyone. Please help me decide. I am still a beginner photographer, I went to this for a long time, did not dare to give up everything and start doing what I love. 5 years of use Nikon D5200, 1 year of active use. Kit lens 18-55 mm. and telephoto 55-300 mm. It's time to change your camera, choose between Nikon D750 and Nikon D810. To be honest, I read here for the first time that the 750 is not a professional. I plan to grow and develop, therefore, I will take the camera for more than one year. I shoot mainly children, family photosets, occasionally weddings and reportage (but this is more in view of my little experience, everything is in perspective). What to take? What are lenses to the body? No matter how much I talked about this with more professional photographers, everyone is delighted with the 750. And even the girl who has 610 desperately wants 750. And here I read and understand that roughly speaking it was “a mess”. It's almost a month before buying a camera (relatives from Korea will bring it, since the price is much lower). This is the longest month of my life. A month of comparisons and reflections. Do not judge strictly, I still do not understand much. Can someone clearly chew for me all the pros and cons of the 750 and 810? I will be very grateful, for me this is a dark forest.
810, she is a class above. To her one wagon, one secondary. 24-70 / 2.8 + 85 / 1.8G.
Thanks ))
Please tell me if these lenses fit on the D750? Or which is better to take? I’m afraid that there may be a problem in the files with the D810 on my laptop, but I can’t replace the laptop right away.
Have to change the PC. I had a D7000 without any problems, took the D600 and had to make up a PC, I didn’t pull the FS.
Olga, do you want to earn money with a camera?
If yes, then your choice is 70-200 / 2.8 or 80-200 / 2.8 and 24-70 / 2.8, otherwise there is a risk that some of the customers will laugh in the face.
For a full frame, you need to take decent glasses so that you are not ashamed or offended.
Although, after the first camera, the 5200 is still too early to jump to 750/810.
Some go with their crop all their life and nothing. And Arkady makes money on it.
I think it’s better not to rush into buying ff, but to buy decent glasses and then a camera.
The laptop will not be able to adequately turn the trenches with the D800 / D800e / D810 / D850 / 5DS / 5DSR.
Unless it's a very expensive laptop with a built-in SSD drive and a bunch of memory.
Then - for most laptops, until SIKH POR, in 2018, TN matrices with a resolution of 1366x768 or 1600x900 are installed.
Working with color on these matrices is just a mockery.
Don't tell me about the power, my 2011 laptop has an 8-thread processor 2.9 GHz, 16 GB of RAM and 2 SSDs, though I upgraded it myself a couple of years ago, it will definitely pull, but the fact that the TN matrix is yes, the scourge of deshman laptops , by the way, they say on MacBooks everything works faster and the IPS matrices
MacBook pro can do it without problems.
Good afternoon. Now I am the owner of a d5300 carcass (as for a crop, with high-aperture optics - it gives a fairly high-quality picture). But as I tried full-frame on photography (canon 6d), I got a desire to jump over to Nikon's ff. The choice fell on d750 and d810. I love the ringing sharpness - the d5300 does not have a low-cut filter - which is a big plus. Low noise at high ISO is also encouraged.
The D810 is very good, and the d750 is just good. Priority over 810.
Eugene, google test comparisons D750 and D810. D750 makes less noise.
But does it make sense to switch from D7200 to d750? there is no way to test 750 but there is a desire and there is money
and if you take 750, then only a carcass (new on ebay now1015 euros) or a whale with 24-120mm (
EUR 1.472,23)?
The D750 is such a good camera that you don't need a lens for it.
I didn’t understand the humor. I mean, is it worth taking with 24-120mm, in principle there is a fifty-dollar coin at 1.4 and a tamron at 80-300. Well, a bunch of dx lenses, not counting the manual classics
Sergey, why do you need the D750?
I just saved it on the D750 and everyone sings about the advantages of a full frame, but I thought about it. Principle D7200 great machine. I have. Nikon Zoom Nikkor 17-55 mm F / 2.8 AF-S DX G, Nikkor 50 1.4g
Nikkor 18-200, Nikkor 35 1.8g, Nikkor 50 1.4d, Tokina 11-20 2.8, Tamron 70-300, and various manual rarities to play around like a Helios or Pentacon.
Usually, when they take a full frame, they already know why it is needed. Of course, it is better than crop, but only in certain conditions. Here, you shoot something on the crop, and you know that a full frame would have come out much better, better. Otherwise, frustration can befall.
everything. already bought. waiting from ireland. I am selling crop optics. 50 1.4 I have. Now it is necessary to determine the versatile and travel zoom. Well, I think 85 1.8g to take.
Humor was based on zero initial data.
I would do it like this: I would sell everything, invest in one of the options for the D750:
1. Zooms: 24-70 + 70 (80) -200. If not Nikon, then Tamrons G2.
2. Fixes, autofocus:
a) 24 + 50 + 85 (105)
b) 35 + 85 + 135.
I now have the option with fixes "B", tk. I do not shoot often and for the soul.
Basically, I don't really need 135. 24mm and wider - I don't like curved perspective.
Well, 24-120 is a good travel zoom, the picture is not outstanding, but convenient.
Where to get money to change D90 to D750 ... And I have glasses under FF Nikon 24-70 and 70-300 ... But there is no money for a carcass :(
The camera heats up quickly during operation! That is, in the grip area! And the battery sits fast enough! Who is in the subject! ? Fot new 3 days! What was interestingly checked on the site of the office everything is decorously noble! I also read the instructions! And there is a fad that they say the battery can get warm! But the feelings are different! Maybe someone found out in more detail the reasons for the quick heating of the camera and the fast subsidence of the battery !? Thanks who works!)
By the way, awesome dzhipegi! I advise you to play very carefully with the pictor control! 750 ke awesome fine-tuning! And the skins are super! Here you are writing about crop! Like someone on them for a long time and someone all his life! So I sat on the crop for 2 years! and turned gray! )) A week ago I bought 750ku! If someone was standing nearby they will not let me lie! I jumped right up to the sky) Kropy guys do not give such a DD in the shadows and lights! All you need to compare next! but the fact that they are pissing is not always close to consciousness))
Buy D750 exclusively for jpeg? And to argue that it is not necessary to take other comments close to consciousness? No, I do not argue at all that the D750 is several goals above the budget crop. And a full-frame old lady 5D in a number of ways can still compete with the most modern crop. But what you wrote is a very, very controversial position. Even the simplest crop has several ways to expand the DD of the picture, and indeed improve it, both in the camera and on the computer without any heroic efforts. Krop remains for lovers a very balanced solution in terms of cost-convenience-result, and if you didn’t succeed, it does not mean that everyone is wrong. In any case, congratulations on your purchase.
I’m a little ridiculous in statements like yours Boris! I used to be the same as the crop had m, I didn’t know better! It’s like after sweet rolls, not sweet anymore!)) You're right in one thing! If you don’t get drunk on some serious projects! That kanesha and cropper for the house is the very thing!)) But the facts Boris is a stubborn thing! And I personally compared on the forehead! removing seasoned crop and 750 coy! And finally Boris well, look at least dry numbers on DxO! In general, by the way! There are people who do not really sense the color gradation!)) Personally, I see a huge difference! Here you write Tipo price quality! And you know, we only live in this world once! Well, if it hints at something to you !? Therefore, it is worth seeing and using the highest quality product! And strive in every way for this way of life! What are your arguments? by the way! What images do you immediately get from the crop at the output from the camera an awesome zepagik! ??? I will squeeze the circle of technology! For example, does Nikon have a crop? And so that these crochets have a jeep of better than 750!))
D750 is not the crown of creation, it will take years and it will be another brick. Compared to the already existing d850 with BSI, the d750 is already outdated.
Those who are measured by the coolness of the camera have not yet taken the path of photography.
Awesome Kamjipegs are not DxO parrots.
Kamgipegi with d40, d50, d70, there is a rave converted by a native utility with d100 and all this for extremely budgetary optics. Will the d750 show such a color - no. It will show a completely different color. What does all this mean? A good camera is good, and a good camera with a keen understanding of the matter is even better, but if you shoot a "fucking cat", then both d750 and d40 will get existentially horrible trash.
D750 is not the crown of creation, it will take years and it will be another brick.
“I always said that the years will pass, and ... and they are!”
Ruslan, give a link to your shots comparing crop and D750. Then I will tell you with argumentation how I would get from crop what you managed to do only on the D750. You understand, I do not deny the superiority of the D750 over an old amateur camera. But the language in which you describe the advantages of the D750 gives you a person who is not fully understood. Lovers often throw phrases about bad DD crop, hard and dirty shadows, subtle color gradations, etc. These phrases are not without meaning, but each of them is specific: why in these conditions your camera shot this way and not the other way. When you understand this specificity, you will find 100 and 1 ways to solve the problem on the same camera.
My texts are like a bible! Everyone understands differently)) And not someone seems that 750 the umbilical cord of life! And the speech is that the chamber jeep in DD is cooler than the lower crop! And again we are talking about the fact that you can pull on some imaginary DD and the lower cropper! But without good shamanism, it’s definitely not for you! A 750 on the fly! In general, it’s difficult to explain my neural connections that my retina synthesizes! And the optic nerve is different for everyone! By the way, I wrote about this above! Not everyone sees the gradient in tonality! Alas, this is not a vice but a feature of human vision! By the way, you were pleased with me about 70ke)) It remains to be reminded that ISOs above 500 can’t recover, otherwise flies fly in your eyes as a result of a blow)) And color degradation on the entire fundus as on a brick is shkryabanom)) And yes, I agree, old cat crocks are good for clicking !)) Here you have the pictures! and you begin to drag them going ?? on TFT? Guys! If for you that D70, that D750 is one skin! That probably doesn’t need you to watch this!)))
Ruslan, in your previous post you did not mention the lower crops. And in this comment has already gone "bottom crumbs". Let me remind you that before Nikon D3, all Nikon's pros shot with crop shots and didn't really complain about that. Also, let me remind you that many photographers for just 1 photo with Nikon D1 (and there is only 2 MP) received more profit than the entire photo career of many amateurs and professionals.
If you want to measure yourself with something that is not measured in decent circles, then I have a lot of pictures from d40, d70, d70s, d100 and a bunch of old Kenons and other cameras printed in 45 * 30 format on silk paper (especially for photo courses) and hardly is there in this world at least one connoisseur who can immediately distinguish them from the same d750.
Again, the d750 is a normal camera. It's about something completely different. By the way, I showed my pictures, you can please us with any materials from the d750 and this is not a joke - I, and I suppose, many others will be interested and informative to enjoy the huge DD, deep color rendering and high ISO at the d750.
Having experience in communication with d40, d200, d750, I can say that each of them is good in its own way. But (again) d750 for DD and other possibilities is far ahead of them. d40 and d200 are 'solar' vehicles. ISO 400 +/- and that's it. On Kamjepeg I liked d40 more than d200. But everything is all right with the d750's Kamjpeg, set it up to peak control and go! And how pleasant it is to work with RAW d750 ... It's hard to keep up with progress, new models are coming! Sometimes you want to buy d40 again ...
I disagree, although I will not tear my shirt, everyone has the right to their opinion. For myself, I consider that the D40 has a completely working ISO 800 (in some cases, all 1600), the D200 has ISO 640.
In my case, sometimes on d40 it was allowed to shoot on ISO 800, but on d200 above ISO 400 it is already critical.
As a person with a unique retina and not TFT, I want to ask what important differences you can indicate in two test jpeg images with the Nikon D750 and Nikon D3300?
Snapshot with D750: https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d750/FULLRES/D750INBI00100.JPG
Snapshot from D3300: https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d3300/FULLRES/D3300INBI00100.JPG
Well, then, the d750 automatically knows how to mask traffic jams from Kendall-Jackson :)
You couldn't even get into the exposition in the photo taken on the D750, what are you talking about in general, what are the “subtleties of tonal gradation”, what, nafig, TFT and skin tone? You learn and learn, and D90 at the current level is above the roof for two years, at least.
By the way, with D3300 the skin tone looks much more juicy and lively, first of all, thanks to more accurate exposure and less vignetting. And the D750 has a characteristic Nikon's seryatin ™.
This is not Valentine, but imaging-resource.com. And about TFT in general Ruslan wrote.
But Ruslan was blown away, nothing to say, nothing to show
Yes, it turned out uncomfortable: it seemed that it was one and the same person.
By the way, about the gray. Nobody understood why she was? I showed RAVs from 750 - I got tortured - I adjusted the exposure a little more - a gray veil is climbing. There is no such thing on my 300.
There are many factors, but it seems to me that the main one is the notorious DD. Due to the wide DD, contrast inevitably decreases, and low contrast is a gray picture.
Yes, Onotole, I am not shy about shooting with the D90. At one time, the result from it did not suit me at all, and I was preoccupied with buying an advanced crop or full-frame camera. I watched and tried the D700 and D800. The difference, of course, I understand, their advantages are obvious. But for myself, I decided to go the other way - I began to study more what precedes the picture, and how the picture is brought to the desired goal. After some time, I realized that the D90's functionality can cover almost all my amateur needs (and I considered it very limited due to lack of my own knowledge). After that, I began to take from friends and simpler cameras, such as the D40 and D60, and also realized that even their even simpler functionality covers almost all tasks. In general, I gave up the idea of taking possession of a professional camera due to the high cost of such a system, and the large dimensions and weights for me.
And yes, you are right, you don't always get into the exposure exactly - out of 100 frames there are also misses within 2/3 - 1/3 stops. I don't see anything wrong with a small number of such frames.
According to Mikhail's “grayness”, this is a decrease in contrast in the middle tones when the exposure is increased. Notice, for example, the fact that the Contrast slider in Adobe Camera Raw is right below the Exposure slider. By the way, the Nikon D750 camera, in addition to the Neutral profile, which is characterized by low contrast (but still some settings, including weak contrast enhancement are used), has a Flat profile - when no settings are applied to the image; in this profile the image looks the least contrasting (very faded). But on the other hand, such a picture retains a maximum of details and nuances for subsequent processing.
Changing the profile does not remove the gray. I don’t understand why the contrast falls in the middle tones, and not throughout the picture? We have to work separately with lights, and with shadows, and in the middle, although, in theory, the exposure engine should affect the entire range equally.
I did not write that the profile should be removed. In midtones, it drops because the exposure slider is responsible for midtones. Under it, the contrast slider is just made, so that you can compensate for such changes or simply enhance the insufficient contrast of the midtones. The sliders of Light, Shadows, White and Black are responsible for working with shadows and lights (including deep ones). In my opinion, everything is very clear there.
Specifically, in the pictures with the doll, the seryatin managed to be completely defeated only after adding ~ 1/3 of the exposure stop and a bit of contrast +5 .. + 7. The picture has become almost indistinguishable from the D3300 (except for vignetting and other EGFs).
It's clear with development, but not very good with the behavior of the picture. Why, when the brightness changes, the contrast changes (brightness difference) - nonsense.
No, not nonsense. You turn up the brightness in some part. The ratio of brightness in this part in relation to others changes - here you have a change in contrasts.
Michael, just notice that "exposure" and "contrast" are responsible for the midtones. Don't believe me, move the mouse over the histogram, you will see that “exposure” moves the middle. About the fact that "contrast" adjusts the mid tones, well, it's trivial to look at the help, where it says:
"Contrast. Corrects the middle tones of the image. Higher values increase the contrast of the midtones, lower values decrease the contrast of the image. Typically, the Contrast slider is useful for correcting the contrast of midtones after adjusting exposure, shadow level, and brightness. ”
Yes, it’s not a matter of faith, I don’t believe. How to manifest and what is responsible for what I already know very well, and I see a histogram. I wonder why (why) this behavior on this camera, and on the other (d300), everything is completely wrong. I just used the camera a little and did not catch the joke
I believe that there is no particular behavior. You didn't take two shots with different cameras with the same lens at the same time, did you? You have similar scenes from the D300 in mind, but the similar scene is not the same. I’m telling you that the situation when the contrast of the middle tones decreases when the exposure is pulled up is not unique for some camera model - this is a phenomenon that arises due to the fact that you understand the brightness ratio of the picture. And this situation is documented by the Adobe Camera Raw program itself. And the developer gave you a tool to fix this situation. Therefore, sinning on camera is not worth it.
And this is me, as it later turned out and did not write to you. In general, it turns out to nobody, because it seemed that different posts were written by one person under the nickname Ruslan ..
In general, the influence of exposure on tone (and skin tone too!) And color is difficult to overestimate. And for some subjects (such as portraits) - even 1/3 of a stop is already critical. Maybe such a frame will not cause a negativity by itself, but comparing the quality of the output image from two cameras, one of which, knowingly incorrectly exposed the frame, is either total inexperience or deliberate forgery.
From my own experience I noticed an interesting feature of the D600-D750. As soon as a brightly lit area, a ray of sunshine from a window or a spotlight enters the frame, the gray color suddenly disappears and a normal color appears. Try it, you can flash, to the ceiling and at a minimum.
There was no ceiling - there is a desert and the sun is figuring))) Out of habit, I wanted to do a push-pull, accordingly I shot it with overexposure, and then pulled it to the norm in ACR - as a result, a veil. Instead of stretching the light, all the brightness shifts to minus and the white point goes away. You expose a white point, the lights seem to come back to normal, and against their background in medium tones, don't understand what. Curves, of course, it corrects, but on the ancient D300 I just set the exposure to minus and everything came where it was needed. And then he danced with a tambourine for a long time to achieve the desired result.
Hello.
By reporting in low light: 750 or 800?
Hello, Igor! It all depends on what kind of report you have, and where.
School, ice rinks, not just central, but training. Children do not give more :(
I would recommend the D750. He has a higher rate of fire and fewer files. It is more convenient to shoot a galloping child with him.
But right lenses are just as important here.
80-200 / 2.8 4 versions are.
I understand that you need to switch to a longer zoom. But they are dark. I don’t feel like bullying ISO. At 2,8, you have to shoot up to 6400 inclusive. Excerpts 600-1250.
Better than 80-200 2.8 for such conditions do not. Everything that is long in focus will either be darker or frankly poorly focused, as is the case with Sigma. However, he should be enough at the rink. You need to run, but this is a common thing, you can’t get anywhere.
It seems that there were complaints about strange compatibility problems namely 80-200 / 2.8 (I don’t remember which version) and D750.
Even here they wrote on Radozhiv.
IMHO, it’s better when you buy the D750 for this reason, take the 80-200 / 2.8 test to verify operation. Although I think that if there was a problem, then Nikon fixed it in one of the firmware.
Yes, for sure, they wrote that there were glitches in the comments on the Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D review.
By the way, if possible, the best option is to buy two manual Chinese flashes and a radio synchronizer. But only those that support high speed shutter sync.
Well this is for the scene. For the rink is not suitable.
But thanks for the tip.
Glass is not so hot focuses. I want to understand why.
Sometimes this happens, you press the button, and the motor does not work. But there are no sounds and squeaks. We have to swing the motor focusing on the near object, and only then transfer the focus to the subject. Not always, but often. Decently annoying. It happens that because of this I lose the frame. Apparently the road to service.
Igor, maybe I didn’t put it clearly enough. I shoot sports coverage professionally. The flashes on the rink are not needed to fully compensate for the missing light, but as a means against strong noise at extremely high ISO. These flashes do not cancel all other requirements for such shooting. Just try with just one on a tripod with an umbrella.
Okay, Peter, I'll try. I'm just worried if I can get a hat for the flash. Still sport, children :)
Another would be to remove the glass sides ...
So I say, if possible. Usually this is not possible, flashes are prohibited - they distract and blind athletes. In serious competitions, sometimes gates are suspended from above and they say at what frequency the radio synchronizer can be used.
Again, you can’t shoot with strobes and flashes in series, because such a bright blinking can provoke an epileptic seizure in someone.
This is how we return.
Peter, if not a secret. Do you work at 750?
Can I see your work?
There is always something to learn….
You can see, of course)
I shoot on D3s and D610 as a spare.
Contact if you have questions. I have little experience, only three or four years, but I will help as much as I can.
So, this weekend I shot the ballroom dancing championship.
D3s is good. You probably can’t find a living one anymore.
I liked the photos as amateurs.
It is not clear which lenses are used, but the hand of the master is felt in the picture.
Apparently 35 and 80-200?
Peter, a little idle question. And at the dance championship, several pairs dance at once? And they are immediately watched and evaluated? Just acrobatics and gymnastics perform individually (in pairs, three) in succession.
2 Igor:
If you are from Russia, then on Avito you can periodically find D3s in good condition. But only recently D4 and 4-ki have fallen in price noticeably closer in price to 3s.
And what are the prices on the Magazilla website much cheaper from the Nikon website?
What's the catch?
Is it only in grayness?
It is alarming.
nuk33@yandex.ru
Peter, if not difficult, respond, there are several questions.
Igor, thank you) Yes, I shot with 80-200 2.8 and 35-70 2.8.
D3s device is very good, just for such a job. But since July of this year, Nikon no longer accepts him to replace the shutter.
I wrote to you in PM.
Michael, yes. In ballroom dancing at competitions everyone goes to the floor and dances the first run, several dances. Then the judges decide who moves to the next round. Those who crossed perform in the same way at the same time, and so on until the finals. The number of rounds depends on the number of participants.
D750 or D810.
You can also used D3s / D4.
Hello, please tell me which camera is better than the Nikon D750?
(I photograph cities, cathedrals, museums, architecture, parks ...)
D750 just right in its segment.
D850, obviously.
Help me figure out the hat. I put everything in the manual, the light does not change. BUT the frames come out first-norm, second-1EV lighter and so alternate, NORMAL-LIGHT-NORM-LIGHT, etc. I’m not changing anything; everything is turned off in the camera. But such a thing happens for unknown reasons.
Take a look if bracketing is turned on or auto is off.