According provided by Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX lens for Nikon cameras, huge thanks to the store www.fotika.com.uawhere you can find a huge number of different used photographic equipment, including this model.
The Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX is an interesting fast telephoto zoom for cropped cameras (the letters 'DC' in the name denote a lens for cropped APS-C cameras).
Sigma has two Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC models: Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX (from this review) and Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 II APO DC HSM EX. In fact, both of these models are completely identical, the only significant difference is that the 'II' version was also produced for Pentax and Sony cameras. Also, there is a newer model with a built-in image stabilizer and a very high quality picture - Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX Optical Stabilizer.
Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC has a rather strange range of focal lengths - 50-150 mm, all due to the fact that the lens is intended only for cropped cameras, on which its equivalent focal length will be 75-225 mm. In fact, the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC (for Nikon cameras) is analogous to the full-frame native lens Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIV). In addition, when recalculated for EGF, Sigma 50-150/2.8 DC captures even a little more range (a little wider and a little longer). The convenience of using this range is difficult to overestimate, and indeed, this is one of the favorite ranges of a large number of photographers.
It's a bit strange that it is almost impossible to find any of the three Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 models new, only on the secondary market. Even on official websites, these lenses have long been deeply hidden in the archive, although personally I believe that a unique and very useful focal length range, along with a constant maximum aperture of F / 2.8, could make these lenses a very desirable product for photographers and just amateurs. filming with cropped cameras. The same fate befell another similar lens - Tokina 535 AF SD AT-X PRO DX 50-135mm F2.8.
The Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 is well assembled, the focus and zoom ring are rubberized and very wide. Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 is pleasant to the touch, with a characteristic Sigma velvet finish on the body and hood. The letters 'EX' ('Excellent' are top quality lenses) on the body are well deserved. This miracle weighs 770 grams, and uses filters with a diameter of 67 mm. The diaphragm consists of 9 blades and closes down to f / 22 throughout the focal length range.
The lens is focused using the HSM-motor (HyperSonic Motor) quite quickly and almost silently. Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC will fit all Nikon DX cameras, even those that don’t inboard motor focusing. The minimum focusing distance is 100 cm and the maximum macro zoom ratio is 1: 5.3. There is a focusing distance scale on the body with markings in meters and feet. When focusing and changing the focal length, the lens does not change its size, because it has internal focusing and zooming systems. The rear lens remains stationary (no 'vacuum cleaner' effect).
The Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC focuses very quickly. Focusing time from infinity to MDF and back is almost the same as Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8GII ED VR, and about half as long as the subsequent model - Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX Optical Stabilizer. Focus speed does not depend on the set focal length.
The instance that I visited on the review focuses very on cameras Nikon D80 и Nikon D700. Literally all the advantages of the lens are smashed to pieces with focus problems. Perhaps this is due only to this instance, or to my old cameras for review. You can find similar reviews on the network about the focusing system, but I’m personally fed up with the behavior of Sigma lenses on Nikon cameras.
In manual focus mode, the focus ring rotates approximately 90 degrees, due to the large grip, focusing manually is quite comfortable :). During auto focus, the ring remains stationary. In manual focus mode, when the ring reaches its extreme positions, it does not rest, but continues to rotate, slipping.
And now about the sad. I will not limit myself to the standard die about the M / A mode.
The lens has the function of constant access to the focus ring, but the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC does not have a full-fledged mode of constant manual focus control Nikon M / Aand, in fact, performing manual focus override with the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC competes with camera and lens automatics. We can say that the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC only has a focus mode Nikon A / M... Personally, it annoys me a lot. Native Nikon optics with this mode immediately turn off auto focus as soon as you touch the focus ring, and this does not depend on the focus mode set in the camera. Of course, it's not worth worrying about this shortcoming, I think that none of the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 DC users is particularly upset about the lack of a mode Nikon M / A. Moreover, if you use different buttons to activate focus and release the shutter (AF ON or AF-L / AE-L), then the lack of a lack of regime M / A completely disappears. Also, conditionally we can assume that the lens does have a mode Nikon M / A, only it works exclusively in AF-S and AF-A and only after the camera initially successfully focuses.
Imagine this lens doesn't have a focus mode switch. Of course, this is not a problem for advanced Nikon cameras, in which the focus mode switch is duplicated near the camera mount. But Nikon amateur cameras do not have such a switch and, accordingly, it will not work quickly to switch to fully manual focus mode. To switch to manual focus mode on such cameras, select the 'MF' focus option from the menu. Poking around in the menu will take much more time than just moving the slider on the lens easily :). And here and there, when focusing in the mode AF-C I remember 'under-copied' Nikon M / A.
The owners of the lens for Canon, Pentax, Sony, Sigma cameras are more fortunate - there is an 'AF / M' switch on the lens (I’m thinking, why was Nikon cheated?).
Included with the lens is a wonderful lens hood that adds some solidity to the lens. The lens hood can be installed in the reverse position (transport mode), only when the hood is worn back and forth, access to the focus ring is completely lost. Also, the kit has a pretty little case.
In the optical scheme, consisting of 18 elements in 14 groups, there are 4 SLD elements. 'SLD' - 'Special Low Dispersion' - 'low dispersion elements'. And in general, at F / 2.8, everything is fine over the entire range of focal lengths, while the lens very well tolerates side and backlight. Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 has weak vignetting and distortion, chromatic aberration are also well compensated. Overall - optically the Sigma 50-150 / 2.8 turned out to be a good lens.
Here link to the archive with the originals - 687 MB, 78 photos in .NEF format (RAW) from cameras Nikon D700 (FX) and Nikon D80 (DX). Please note that pictures on a full-size camera Nikon D700 were shot in 'FX' crop mode, so there is a lot of darkening at the corners and edges of the frame, as well as a drop in sharpness, these images are just an example of the lens's capabilities on a full-frame camera. For some subjective reasons, I personally did not like the 'picture' from this lens at all.
Add a tripod foot, focus switch, image stabilizer to the Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX - and you would just get a great lens, oh yes, then you would just Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX Optical Stabilizer. Although, in the latter, there were still jambs with the priority of manual focus and focus accuracy.
Catalog of modern Sigma lenses can look at this link.
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Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX is a very good and interesting lens for cropped cameras, it's a pity that it is no longer produced.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Excellent review, Arkady. As far as focusing on this lens is concerned, this is a complete disaster ... I myself was its owner and the focus often “ran away”. Now I have a Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF Nikkor - it's a fairy tale!
In short, is it smearing in the same way as its new version?
Yes, smears with the same intensity.
Arkady, and a thing called SIGMA USB DOCK, which allows photographers to independently adjust the lens, will not help in this problem?
I have not tried it.
The answer, of course, is belated, but still.
Sigma USB Dock does not work with this lens, a device for the new series of lenses Art, Contemporary and Sports.
I have been using Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX Optical Stabilizer for a year now and I am not overjoyed :) it keeps the focus even in the “tracking” mode :) I write off rare mistakes in sharpness on my inaccuracy in control
It would be nice if you clarified which system you use :)
Looking at the second photo, Shanghai immediately appears with the same streets and the same number of people :)
Probably I didn't like the picture because it was inconvenient to work because of the autofocus misses. They got angry and transferred their emotions to the final result. So that's quite passable. By the way, on the second row of photos from the bottom, where a girl with a wreath in her hair, you can see an interesting thing - "twisting bokeh" as in gelis. So it turns out that this is a disadvantage of the lens associated with insufficient coverage width and the approach of the lens edge. And in helios - a branded chip))))))
“I would add a tripod foot, a focus switch, an image stabilizer to the Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX - and it would have turned out to be just an excellent lens” …… ”Personally, I did not like the 'picture' from this lens for some subjective reasons in general. ”……” The Sigma 50-150mm 1: 2.8 APO DC HSM EX is a very good and interesting lens for cropped cameras, it's a pity they don't make it anymore. ” So what is it good for and why is it a pity that it is not released now, if the picture is not pleasant, there is no foot, no focus mode switch, stub?
The lens itself is not bad, but not great either, and the fact that I personally don't like it is my business, isn't it?
So, of course. I just notice that many, without bothering to study the images, draw conclusions about whether the lens is good or the so-called bad. drawing, sharpness, contrast, based solely on your impressions. This is not good, is it? ... However, it may be to follow Moses or not, this is also their business.)
A photographer should always think with his own head :)
The photographer is a special case. Each person should think with his own head :). Thank you for your work, Arkady!
Hello Arkady. There is a Macinon lens 80 - 200, macro, ms. I can give it, though I don’t know how to send it to you from the Russian Far East ...
Thank you :) look closer to yourself, maybe someone needs a TV set, a person will be happy, but I do not need it, and shipping will be more expensive than its cost.
Hello. Ready to take him to St. Petersburg. Once I’m looking for a TV set. I will be just happy!) In response, I am also sending you something good)
Arkady, hello, I can’t wait for you to review the width of Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6
Well, buy, send, there will be a review for you. Why wait then?
Yeah, vignetting on the D700 is frank ... But the pictures from the D80, I liked everything !!!! The quality is great! Well, the photographer apparently helped to get away from lens errors. Experience!!!!!
Well, Duc, the glass is under the crop, here is the vignette ...
A year ago I bought this rare glass. Conclusion: for a while I got used to it, but then only the pros: color rendering and light - like Nikkor 24-85 / 2.8-4.0 - one of my favorite glasses.
Autofocus-excellent- trained on proteins-hard. Paired with
D300 is excellent for reporting. After it I sold 18-200 and 70-300 tele-on the crop enough.
But-carefully check when buying-the quality of the old Sigma everyone knows.
Add about the quality of the old Sigma. Since 1976! Sigma released the top-end XQ series.
Recently acquired the first Sigma-Sigma-XQ MF zoom 39-80 mm f / 3.5 Nikon mount.
Glass and metal Gum-like new. Good color reproduction and sharpness. Internal zoom! Focal 3.5-maximum on the zoom at the time. Unusual-four
adjustment rings. Glass is 40 years old and everything works.
Arkady if interested, I can provide for a review.
> In fact, both of these models are completely identical
In fact, they are different. The first version has two rear optical elements that are plano-convex, and the second, biconvex. The second is slightly longer and slightly heavier.
And how to distinguish the 1st and 2nd versions of the lens for Nikon?
I bought this lens a couple of years ago and use it on nikon crop. Sharp across the entire field from about f 3.5, but f 2.8 is also quite a working aperture. Focusing is fast, the weight is not large. There is a back focus from 50 to 100 mm. You can see examples of photos on it on my website http://alexpetrovfoto.ru/svadebnyj-fotograf-stupino.html
50mm backing is pretty damn good even for 50mm and f / 2.8. IMHO, with such a back it is generally impossible to work, except through LV.
I rigged and rejoice)
I got sigma recently. When checking, I shot several frames. Impressions are purely positive. I noticed some back focus in the range of 50-100 on the open. I hoped for an in-camera fine tuning in d7k. As a result, when adjusting to zero at 100mm, I have a backing at 50mm and a front at 150. Only after holding a hole to 7,1 do I get into the depth of field over the entire range with MDF. Further a little easier. Is this normal for this glass? Not a working drug seems to be characteristic of sigma on nikon. At 17-50 / 2.8 tamron, the situation is similar, except for a working drug, but not so pronounced, given the large depth of field. Is it all being treated?
A month ago I acquired this lens. Choose between Nikon 70-210 f4. Camera D90. When testing, there are no deviations when focusing. In work on a clear day, everything is fine, sharp at aperture of 100-150 from 3,5, focuses very quickly. In low light conditions (in the forest) in focus mode with auth. the choice of zone is often mistaken, therefore, in the center. point. Also, in poor light, it does not become sharp at the same 100-150mm with F3 / 5-4. I think you need to get used to hunting for squirrels. Maybe someone has good advice on how to be in such (dark) conditions. Sincerely.
Here are more sample photos on this lens http://alexpetrovfoto.ru/svadba-alekseya-i-ilony/
Thank you! Beautiful portrait session, I got a little used to this objective. but it’s not always possible at 120-150mm to get the Influenza throughout the frame in poor light conditions, even raising the ISO, and using the flash. In the forest, focus has only one point.
Good afternoon!
I choose a lens for shooting children on walks in the park, performances in the halls, etc., I shoot on the d7000, I’m not in a hurry to leave the crop, I can update to 7100 with time. There are 17-50, I want a bright telephoto. I choose b / y, on the secondary sigma 50-150 and nikon 80-200ffff MK2 at about the same price, what do you recommend to choose an amateur? Sigma captivates with weight and size, but it scares autofocus.
here it is worth trying live
There is no such opportunity. I buy everything with delivery.
How to sell such a lens. Interested in an offer?
So what is this?
If relevant - how to contact you?
If Sigma is without stabilization, then Nikon is better, as for me. Extra 50 mm at the long end will not be superfluous, and compatibility problems with native optics are usually less. I am ready to put up with shoals of non-native lenses, but for a significantly lower price, all other things being equal.
Ask for a photo on the open at the edges of the range for both lenses, preferably with a tripod, if possible.
don't be alarmed, everything is fine with autofocus.
Good day. Thanks so much for the reviews. She relied, including, on them when she chose a lens.
I have a Sigma 50-150 lens, a Nikon d70s camera. First of all, I purchased them for shooting basketball matches and dances. Both are now filming in the hall. It's light in the hall. I set the ISO to maximum, it makes noise sometimes, but at lower values it is blurry in the hall. I shoot in Sport mode.
There are successful, vivid pictures. But when the photos are dark, I worry about what I'm doing wrong, as they say. Then I sit and increase the brightness in Photoshop.
Could you tell me what other parameters to check, what to "screw up", so that when shooting, to achieve that illumination in the photographs, which is really there in the hall?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Svetlana, try to make an exposure correction. Or set the mode so that the camera takes several pictures with different exposures.
I think that some of the pictures will satisfy you, and in these conditions continue to shoot with a corrected exposure. Switch to other conditions - adjust the exposure again.
Thank you very much!
First, leave the scene mode, for example, in the priority of the aperture. Try shooting in different metering modes. Compare the results, choose the most suitable. When processing, try to work not only with brightness. In the fight against noise and lubrication (due to higher working ISOs and, accordingly, the ability to set shorter shutter speeds), a camera with a more modern matrix can help.
I'll try, thanks!
“Personally, I didn’t like the 'picture' from this lens at all for some subjective reasons.”
Arkady, if it's not a secret you didn't like the picture on the crop or FF?
And what exactly did you dislike?
I saw inexpensively this lens under the SA mount (Sigma crop / 1.5) and 70-200 / 2.8.
70-200 / 2.8 does not fit in weight and dimensions, but 50-150 / 2.8 is more interesting, but confused by your comment.
The link to the archive with the originals, unfortunately, does not work ...