According provided by radio synchronizer Yongnuo RF-603N many thanks to Dmitry Vrachinsky.
Overview of the Yongnuo RF-603N Radio Synchronizer
Yongnuo RF-603N is a simple radio synchronizer, produced for Nikon (RF-603N) and Canon (RF-603C) cameras. A model for Nikon cameras came to my review. The set, in a dense cardboard box, includes two RF-603N modules, a YN-N3 cable and instructions in English and Chinese.
Yongnuo RF-603N
Each of the two Yongnuo RF-603N modules can work as both a transmitter and a receiver, which seems to be a rather convenient solution. Each module is powered by two AAA batteries. Both Yongnuo RF-603N modules have so-called. 'TTL pass-through', which allows you to use an external flash by placing it on top of the module mounted on the camera.
But in fact, there is no end-to-end TTL. If you install RF-603N on the camera and flash on it, the camera will not see the flash.
Often in online shops people are confused by the 'TTL' lettering in the name of the Yongnuo RF-603N, making users think that the Yongnuo RF-603N supports automatic TTL flash remote control. This is not the case, Yongnuo RF-603N can only set fire to an external flash, and the flash power will have to be set manually.
For some Nikon flashes, you can trick a bit, details here.
Yongnuo RF-603N
Depending on the configuration in the box, you can find different cables for remote control of the camera. Such a cable is connected to a special connector on the module, which serves as a receiver, and the other end to the camera port. Thus, you can remotely release the shutter. Of course, the Yongnuo RF-603N has a standard sync port for studio flashes.
Yongnuo RF-603N
It is stated that the Yongnuo RF-603N supports shutter speeds up to 1/320 sec. I worked with him on camera Nikon D700 and with flash SB-900. If you set the flash sync speed in the camera menu to 1/320 sec., Then with the Yongnuo RF-603N you can work normally at shutter speeds up to 1/200 sec. inclusive. But for 1/250 and 1/320 sec. Black stripes already appear on the image. Strange but model Yongnuo RF-602 / N worked great with shutter speed up to 1/250 sec, with the same camera and flash.
On top of that, I didn’t like the fact that you cannot test the flashes (by pressing a button) without attaching the Yongnuo RF-603N to the camera. In this case, the selection of the synchronization channel is in the battery compartment, that is, to change / install it, you need to remove the batteries from the synchronizer. Even worse, the Yongnuo RF-603N is only tied to Nikon cameras. For example, you cannot attach it to a Canon or Pentax camera and remotely fire the flash. Usually, simple radio synchronizers that do not have TTL sync can easily ignite an external flash using a central sync terminal, thus maintaining compatibility with a large number of cameras and flashes. In this plan Yongnuo RF-602 / N much more functional.
Another little thing that can sometimes be annoying - the Yongnuo RF-603N power button is too close to the shoe and, with the flash installed in it, turning on the RF-603N is very difficult or impossible at all! You have to shoot the flash, turn on the synchronizer and set the flash back.
Yongnuo RF-603N
The RF-603N modules do not have fastening latches for mounting them on racks, tripods, legs, etc., the instructions say that you should use heads with their own clip, but I personally rarely see such. Also, the instructions do not indicate restrictions on use with certain flash units and cameras, but I suspect that problems may arise, for example with Nikon SB-600.
Yongnuo RF-602 / N and Yongnuo RF-603N
The cheapest is to buy Yongnuo synchronizers on aliexpress.
Results
Yongnuo RF-603N is a simple and inexpensive radio synchronizer. For myself personally, I would be looking for some other option, since I often have to work with several systems (Nikon, Pentax, Canon, Sony), and the RF-603N is not universal in this regard. Most of the shortcomings were fixed in the new version - Yongnuo RF-603 II.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
There is YONGNUO RF-603 II, as far as I understand the next generation of 603 synchronizers. If interested, I can give a test.
Of course, let's.
Thank you, Arkady for the review. These synchronizers have "through" contacts, but TTL does not work in the flash installed on top.
Yes, these do not work.
I tested these synchronizers in terms of replacing my old PT-04 and ... completely disappointed. They work stably up to 1/160, at 1/200 and higher, for some unknown reason, sometimes a failure appears - a black bar, as on the old ones.
And the batteries (in the photo) are familiar :), they work fine, I have already bought 2 times to replace others. They spent a year in the soap dish, at different times about 100 shots were taken and about 65% of the charge remained.
I worked stably at a shutter speed of at least 1 / 160sec, in other cases a black stripe appeared at the top of the frame, I used it with a flash sb-910…. when used in the city center, there were multiple false alarms and vice versa - no alarms…. apparently due to the abundance of radio interference
Regarding the end-to-end TTL: it does not work and cannot work: I have several sets, purchased at different times in different places. I even disassembled a couple (for Nikon) - the necessary contacts are not even soldered (but this can be fixed with a soldering iron, a couple of wires and a switch). The version for Canon did not make out.
Regarding compatibility: any synchronizer (both for Nikon and Canon) in the receiver mode will ignite the flashes of both brands (as the socket contacts are parallelized).
Another little trick: the synchronizer-transmitter for Canon, being not fully inserted into the socket of the device, Nikon will work))
Well, of course, both versions of the synchronizer will work from each other, of course, if they are configured on the same channel.
About reliability: I didn't notice any false positives. There are sometimes gaps in impulses, I didn't count them exactly, but approximately - no more than 10 gaps per 1000 frames.
About speed: for a DSLR maximum 1/200, but what’s interesting, the old Panasonic_FZ50 works quietly up to 1/400, only with 1/500 dimming starts.
In general, I am satisfied with the devices, I do not like the absence of a retaining ring on the shoe. (In the second version, this drawback is eliminated).
PS "Not universality" follows from the fact that the device has a so-called. energy saving system: after a while the synchronizer switches from active mode to standby mode, and the receiver also puts the flash into sleep mode (if it has one). When you half-press the shutter release button, the synchronizer returns to active mode and “wakes up” the flash. Of course, each brand uses its own contact for this signal, hence the “non-universality” of the synchronizer.
YONGNUO RF-603 II with SONY NEX-F3, through the appropriate adapter, works.
I work with these synchronizers, which are really inconvenient with switches, and the on and off button is inconvenient, but they work on Nikon and, in principle, are suitable. That's when I bought the sb-700, she replaced the synchronizer because it perfectly ignites the remote flash with a light trap.
Arkady is there an article on how to choose the right synchronizer and what types?
In the second iteration of this model, several shortcomings were eliminated, the power button moved to the side and became, at the same time, the receiver / transmitter mode switch.
My synchronizers, the second version, worked quietly on the Canon 60D, only waking up did not work, and even in the receiver you can insert any flash with an old boot.
with the SB-600 one problem - if the flash goes into standby mode - its synchronizer cannot "wake up". But in general, this does not interfere.
Otherwise, there are no limitations other than working with other flashes.
I don’t know how about canon flashes and others, but with my yongnuo it also works in manual mode.
I want to clarify, radiosynchronization may have yakus vidimnnist / short / dead in the robot is just a carcass with a crap heap that transcript of yak mozhe pratsyuvati in slave / master? May set D90 і SB700, the carcass is normal Keruє 700th, є channel setting, all praцyak on the menu is clear and that zrozumіlo. Chi, all the same, stink the phone if the device itself isn’t too bad for sleeping on the simplest models, anyway on prof. cameras de spalahu zagagali nemaє? Nichols didn’t prazuvav with synchronizers, I wanted bi almost think of people.
First, the remote flash on the synchronizer will work only in manual mode, i.e. for example, to change the power, you have to go to it and change the power in the flash settings. in the Nikon CLS system, you control all the settings from the camera.
The advantages of the synchronizer in this aspect include more economical use of flashes, because in CLS and TTL modes, the flashes make preliminary impulses - control (actually for transmitting parameters to the slave flashes) and TTL to measure the required power - this consumes battery power, as well as the lamp life.
Secondly, the master flash will always give a pulse (for synchronization), and accordingly will “shoot at the forehead” of the subject being photographed. If the flash is on-camera, and not built-in, then it can be turned to the side, up, or back (but at the same time it can still give unnecessary light).
When using synchromesh, you can use any flash arrangement - no flash is required on the camera itself.
As an example, I used two flashes for illumination in nature: one through an umbrella gave a highlighting light, the second either highlighted the shadows or gave a backlight. An on-camera flash would just be superfluous. (Photo for example: http://vk.com/photo44381128_288459716)
Among the pluses is a much lower weight of the camera with a synchronizer than with an external flash, or saving the device's battery with a built-in flash.
Everything is correctly written about the cons of synchromes. I would also add from personal experience - frequent skipping of bursts. At first I thought that the puff didn’t have time to charge (I’m a reporter in the clubs), and then I realized that the sikhras fall asleep and wake up no slower than the fotik is ready to take off.
Dyakuyu Vladislav, Sergiy. But if you want to specify bi, you write Vladislav “Secondly, the master flash will always give an impulse (for synchronization), and, accordingly, will“ shoot in the forehead ”” - at me, in D90, I can select in the camera menu, where the flash will be only give an impulse to the call of the night and give an impulse and the signal itself.
Maxim, even when using the built-in flash command mode and the pulse function is turned off, the flash still gives extra light, which can disrupt the light pattern of the overall composition. In short, all the same, the built-in flash highlights a little when shooting. (Quote, more about Nikon CLS can read here https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/06/nikon-cls-master-slave-mode/ )
But, you can check by setting the CLS mode, and taking a picture of the camera in the mirror :)
Maxim, even when using the CLS mode of the built-in flash and the pulse function is turned off, the flash still gives extra light, which can interfere with the light scheme of the overall composition.
But, you can check by setting the CLS mode, and taking a picture of the camera in the mirror :)
Dyakuyu for the joy about the experiment! Zrobiv yak vi said, in a dark room, I am standing at a mirror, the camera blya exposing with a tuned built-in flash of just the keruvannya, 700ka behind my back is directed to the other side, I’m telling you that I’m not going to take it can be seen that my figure is growing dark), and behind my back there is a warning, which is guilty of being. If you want in the mirror, you can clearly see how the last sleeps are going to light up, ale light is just like a lamp and a flash, on the face of it is dumb. Ready to say, submit a photo. Nicholas of this is not shy of that very tsikaviy kintsevy result. For me to change the setting, there is no display in the mode of kerovation by internal sleeping.
“If you want to see clearly in the mirror how the sleeping sleeps are going to light up” - how the inner sleeping places are going to light up on the uvaz.
thanks for the experiment))
It turns out that the flash fires, but, as I expected, with the minimum power. In practice, it turns out that it can affect the overall lighting scheme only with a fairly high set sensitivity and / or high-aperture optics with an open aperture ...
But can you still look at the photo (indicating the shooting parameters - sensitivity, aperture, approximate distance)?
(I have a D5100, so there is no way to experiment with the built-in flash)
So, loudly, give the electronic, I will throw it to you.
Maxim, dance.zp "doggie" list.ru
Unfortunately, I never used radio synchronizers, but in the future I plan to buy and try. The article notes that although these synchronizers do not have TTLs, they do not set fire to flashes from cameras other than Nikon. An article about Yongnuo RF-602 / N says that from any camera they set fire to any flash. Is it so? Did I understand everything correctly? It turns out I can set fire to studio flashes and Canon 430 and Nikon sb-700 and Yungnuo 560 from any camera even Nikon d5100, even Canon 50d? So if I want, I can arrange the flash over the entire necessary area of photographing as I need, with the sync in them, put one transmitter on the Nikon and Canon and all the flashes will be ignited every time I click on a particular camera? Naturally, I realize that I doom myself to the full manual mode, but sometimes taking pictures of meetings and events in not very bright halls and offices, I would not be in danger of having the flash installed in advance to click on both cameras with decent light. Light traps can not always help to the fullest. And what other radio synchronizers besides 602 will help me with this? Rather, what parameters should you pay attention to when choosing a model? Thanks in advance for the answer :)
Pastor, you misunderstood.
On the 603rd synchronizer, operating in receiver mode, you can install any flash - Nikon, Canon, as well as any “compatible” flash - Yongnuo, Sigma, etc. with “standard” shoe, and in “manual” mode, ANY flash WILL FIRST.
Also, using a standard PC-Jack cord (6.3 / 3.5), you can set fire to any studio lighting fixtures.
If there is a need to work with different cameras, then you can, for example, buy two different sets: one for Nikon, the second for Canon. You will have four devices. Tune them all to the same channel. On the Canon camera you put on sync. under Canon, put on a synchronizer under Nikon on the Nikon apparatus. Connect any flashes to the other two (or more) devices in manual mode, or studio flashes - and all synchronizers will be triggered from both leading modules.
And the 602s seem to be no longer produced. I also like the 603s because one module can be both a receiver and a transmitter. I take at least one spare for important events. It saved me once: they were filming in nature, and the stand with the umbrella was blown off by the wind, it fell, the “shoe” broke off on the synchronizer. Replaced the synchronizer, continued shooting.
And about light synchronizers - they are good where there are no other photographers))
At some event, your light traps will also be triggered by "enemy" equipment))
Thank you so much for the clarification! Now I will definitely take radio synchronizers - enough torment with light traps.
But should it work on Nissin Di466?
Where do the comments go ???
Tell me, the camera regularly loses contact with the synchronizer for Nikon 603, I have several of them, so this is not the fault of a particular instance. Usually when I turn the camera into a vertical position (i.e. camera, synchronized, puff on top).
Lost connection.
I shot 5-6 photo sessions - it disappears steadily, I have to fix it.
Is that made in china?
! Flash on camera - always perfect, always connected.!
Alternatively, you can purchase a set, or at least one synchronizer of the second revision, since the first version does not have a system for securely attaching the synchronizer to the camera. With the puff inserted into it, it distorts, and contact is lost - this is my guess, although I did not notice this on my D5100.
From the "shamanic" methods, I can suggest sticking a thin strip of tape (or two, to make it thicker) on the upper right side of the synchronizer shoe, if you tilt the device to the left - then the contact will probably be better, but of course no one will give guarantees :)
On Petnaks RF-603N works quite well, I have a K-30. Shutter speed 1/160, flash Yongnuo III. If shorter, it does not work already. I’m thinking of buying another second revision and remaking the first one a bit. There you need to solder the resistor and it works like a wireless remote control for the camera. There is a video on YouTube on the Internet. I would like to have shorter shutter speeds in the arsenal.
I tried to work with this synchronizer with Canon 5D & 350D cameras, they refused to work, even if I manipulated with an incomplete installation in the shoe.
Arkady, I haven’t tried the version for Nikon on Canon, but on the contrary it works, at least on my D5100 with incomplete insertion, but you need to precisely “catch the position” - all this, of course. If there is a need, you just buy another set, especially since the price is quite adequate.
Vladlen, I also soldered the resistor (with my mind I "got to" which contact you need to send a signal to), but through an additional switch, now it even works on Zenith, and it works from the button))
I bought the 1st option, flash http://pfotosale.narod.ru/Flashes/Carena_TZ250.htm for some reason it’s not set on fire.
The NIKON D7000 camera, on it the flash works in manual mode.
The Yongnuo RF-603N radio synchronizer works as a remote control unit. But, only for this purpose - it is expensive. :-)
I put a flash on the camera - it ignites, I put the RF-603N, on top of the flash - it does not ignite, I put it on the second unit - it also does not ignite, but the team goes.
The first time I come across such a device, maybe I did something wrong?
Tomorrow I’ll go to the photographer’s friend in the studio and see how his manual flashes work. He also has a D7000, but the synchronizers are different, and the radio in my opinion is RF-602 / N
Hello! I made a mistake with the model ... Can you tell me, can I use RF - 603N for Canon 5D?
I advise everyone to pay attention to the Cactus v5 synchronizers. Sold as single units or as a kit (Cactus v5 duo).
Of the benefits:
- 16 channels (the first one is common, it ignites all the others)
- huge range of work
- high reliability (for a couple of years of use, I don’t remember false positives or vice versa no positives)
- compatible with all flash units (except Sony with its non-standard shoe)
- there are mounts on the shoe
- each device can work as a receiver and a transmitter
- conveniently located controls
- through shoe (TTL is not supported)
- studio flash sync
- Supports sync speed up to 1/1000 second !!!
Of the minuses:
- no ttl
- the lanyard for the shutter is purchased separately
- be sure to turn off the transmitter after work, otherwise it actively consumes batteries.
Good day. Today the RF-603N synchronizers arrived.
I just can not make friends in the flash di466. Nikon D5100 The channels are the same on both sync. During the descent, it blinks red and everything, the flash does not light! Has anyone encountered a similar one?
set the flash to manual mode
Good people, please help me. In me, there is only one only yak transfer. Also, if I put the wrong camera on the camera - on the right synchronization. Why am I wrong?
Hello! Question: I’ll put a flash on these two synchronizers, the first will start from the built-in one, and the second will be set on fire from the synchronizer? I understand correctly? or doesn’t it?