According provided by lens Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM (FLD glass, Nikon mount F) huge thanks to Pavel.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM is a fast full-time zoom for cropped cameras of various systems. I reviewed the version for Nikon DX cameras, so when buying such a lens, pay attention to which system it is made for. The lens is suitable for all Nikon cameras, even the simplest ones, without a focus motor.
Main technical characteristics of Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM:
| Review Instance Name | The following inscriptions are on the lens barrel, near the front lens 'Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM Ø 72 LENS MADE IN JAPAN', on the lens barrel 'Sigma DC 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX HSM Optical Stabilizer' |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 77 mm |
| Focal length | 17-50 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 25.5-75 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 2.94 X (usually rounded to 3) |
| Designed by | for Nikon DX digital cameras, there are modifications for other systems (Sigma, Canon, Pentax, Sony) |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 petals |
| Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 17, 21, 28, 35, 50 mm, mark of bayonet mount and mount / fix hood. |
| Diaphragm | control is via the camera menu (analog Nikon G - lens type) F / 2.8-F / 22 aperture over the entire focal length range |
| MDF | 0.28 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| The weight | 565 g |
| Optical design | 17 elements in 13 groups. The scheme includes:
|
| Lens hood | Bayonet type, plastic, with the possibility of installation in transport mode |
| Manufacturer country | LENS MADE IN JAPAN (Lens made in Japan) |
| Production period | C February 2010. In April 2013 augmented by a lens Sigma DC 18-35mm F1.8 HSM A (ART) |
| Price |
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 is intended to be a relatively cheap replacement for 'native' lenses - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM DX и Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 17-55mm 1: 2.8 IS USM.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
The Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 is a good weighty lens with a huge front lens that uses 77mm filters. The lens is made in Japan, the copy from my review does not have any obvious backlash, and the lens trunk does not spontaneously protrude. The lens has a metal mount and a special zoom lock at 17mm - 'Lock'. But from the side of the bayonet in the lens, you can see its entire electronic soul with boards, springs and other insides. I am concerned that access to such lens elements has not been blocked. And three more screws on the inner sections of the lens, which are located behind the front lens, do not look very good.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 - has fast auto focusalmost the same as the native Nikon 17-55 / 2.8... The high focusing speed is most likely due to the low travel of the focusing ring, which rotates only 45 degrees. I notice that virtually all of these third-party lenses 'save' on either the focus ring or the normal focus motor.
Auto focus is not only fast, but also enough silent. Noise level is several times lower than that of Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 и Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC, all thanks to HSM.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
When focusing and zooming, the front the lens does not rotate, with filters should not be any problems. The focus ring and zoom are rubberized. During zoom, only one lens section extends. The minimum focusing distance is only 28 см, which will allow you to get macro pictures with an increase of 1: 5, which is pretty good for this kind of lens. Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 has a focus distance scale and a zoom position scale.
Bad that the lens does not support continuous manual focus control, but in order to focus manually, you need to switch the lens to the 'M' mode using the 'AF M' switch. Failure to do so could damage the lens motor.
The lens has a 7-blade aperture, which closes to a maximum of F / 22 over the entire range of focal lengths.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
The lens comes with a wonderful case and lens hood. The hood can be worn back and forth, while maintaining low access to the focus ring, even 17 mm.
The inside of the lens. Several boards in two rows.
Of course, one of the main features of the lens is the image stabilization system, which allows take off at longer values excerpts... There is a special mode switch on the lens barrel - 'OS ON OFF'. I may be nitpicking, but generally stabilized lenses will freeze the jitter a little. JVIthat I did not see with this lens.
The instructions somehow incomprehensibly say that the stabilizer is powered by the camera even in the 'OFF' mode within a minute after turning on the camera or after pressing the focus and / or metering button exposure, or during the time while the metering is working. If you listen closely, you can indeed hear a slight noise in the middle of the lens, even with the stabilizer in the 'OFF' position. When you press the focus button, the noise just increases - apparently the stabilizer starts working at full power. This oddity can seriously affect the lifespan of a camera battery. I think this method of OS implementation is not logical. Stabilizer on the lens SIGMA C 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4 DC OS HSM MACRO works in a similar way.
Important: when the lens is removed from the camera, or when the camera is turned off, if you shake the Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS a little, you will clearly hear a noise in the middle, as if something had fallen off there. This is normal lens behavior, and the lens group responsible for stabilization is noisy, in the off state the lenses are not 'suspended' in the magnetic field.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
The lens was stuffed with 2 FLD glass elements and 2 aspherical elements.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
In work, Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 proved to be quite good. Focus misses are rare, but still happen. The sharpness in the center of the frame pleasantly surprised me. But on the edges of the frame, everything is not so good, and vignetting in the wide-angle range on open diaphragms. And of course, strong barrel-shaped distortion of 17mm. If you close the aperture below F / 4.0, then it's a sin to complain about the lens.
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D80. EGF is 25,5-75 mm. On-camera JPEG L fine without treatment, reduced size to 3 MP. Everything was shot in N (Neutral) Picture Control. The long exposure noise reduction function and high ISO noise reduction function were turned off.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM
I used the lens data for several months on the camera Nikon D90 and left only positive impressions. Below are pictures from real photo tasks:
All fast universal zoom lenses
Below is a list of all such aperture-type universal zoom autofocus lenses for SLR and mirrorless cameras with an APS-C sensor or less.
Tokina (DX, various mounts)
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus, model AT-X 165 PRO DX, for Canon (C/EF version) and Nikon (N/AIS version), from July 2006. Optical design is the same as Pentax SMC DA* 16-50mm f/2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM
Tamron (DI II, DI III-A, various mounts)
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 N / E / P / S (under Nikon [N], Canon [E], Pentax [P], Sony / Minolta [S]), since February 2006. Produced in Japan, China and Vietnam
- promaster DIGITAL XR EDO AF Ashperical LD [IF] 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 MACROprevious lens under the brand Promaster
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50 mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 NII (only for Nikon cameras), since March 2008
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50 mm F / 2.8 VC B005, model B005 E / NII (for Canon [E] or Nikon [NII]), from September 2009, Japan or China)
- Tamron 17-70 mm F / 2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Model B070, Model B070, Sony E only, from December 2020
Sigma (DC, different mounts)
With constant maximum aperture (DC EX and DC ART series):
- Sigma DC ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX (+ -D), since July 2004, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K. The version for the '4/3' system has been available since February 2006 (not mass-produced). The version for Nikon in its name includes the prefix 'D'.
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO, since September 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, 4/3
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM, since June 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-50mm 1: 2.8 ZOOM EXOS HSM, from February 2010, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-35mm F1.8 A [ART, HSM], from April 2013, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- SIGMA DC 18-50 mm 1: 2.8 DN C [Contemporary], since Oct 2021, for Sony E, Leica L
With variable maximum aperture (DC and DC Contemporary series):
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5, February 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM, from July 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 MACRO HSM OS, from December 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 C, [MACRO, OS, HSM, Contemporary], from September 2012, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1:2.8-4.5 HSM OS ZOOM, from March 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
Nikon (DX, F mount)
- Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1:2.8-4E ED N, Nikon F mount, from July 2015
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM, Nikon F mount, from July 2003
Pentax (DA, Q, K and Q mounts)
- Pentax SMC DA * 16-50 mm 1:2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM, Pentax KAF2 mount, since February 2007. Optical design is similar to the lens Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus (joint development of Tokina and Pentax)
- HD PENTAX-DA * 1: 2.8 16-50 mm ED PLMAW, from July 2021, Pentax KAF4 mount
- HD Pentax-DA 1: 2.8-4 20-40 mm ED Limited DC WR, Pentax KAF3 mount, black or silver body, from November 2013
- SMC Pentax 1: 2.8-4.5 5-15 mm ED AL [IF] [LENS 02], Pentax Q mount (crop factor Kf=5.53X or Kf=4.65X)
Canon (EFS, EF-S mount)
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 17-55mm 1: 2.8 IS USM (Image Sabilizer, Ulstrasonic, EFS), Canon EF-S mount, since May 2006
Sony (DT, A and E mounts)
- Sony DT 2.8/16-50 SSM, Sony A mount (Minolta A), since August 2011
- Sony E 2.8/16-55G (Sony SEL1655G), Sony E bayonet mount, from August 2019
Fujifilm(X)
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Nano-GI XF 16-55mm 1: 2.8 R LM WR, Fujifilm X mount, since January 2015
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Super EBC XF 18-55mm 1:2.8-4 RLM OIS, Fujifilm X mount, September 2012
Samsung (NX)
- Samsung lens 1: 2-2.8 S 16-50 mm ED OIS i-Function, Samsung NX mount, since January 2014
Olympus/Panasonic/Leica/Yongnuo (4/3, Micro 4/3, Kf=2X)
Mirrored 4/3:
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 11-22 mm 1:2.8-3.5, from February 2004
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54 mm 1:2.8-3.5, from June 2003
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54 mm 1:2.8-3.5 II, from November 2008
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 14-35 mm 1: 2 ED SWDsince January 2005
- Panasonic Lumix LEICA D VARIO-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-3.5 /14-50 ASPH. MEGA OIS, from July 2006
Mirrorless Micro 4/3:
- OLYMPUS M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 12-40 mm 1:2.8 PRO, since October 2013
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25 mm f / 1.7 ASPH.since May 2019
- LUMIX G VARIO 1: 2.8 /12-35 ASPH. POWER OIS, since June 2012, in March 2017 an improved sub-version is released (outwardly they do not differ in any way)
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-4.0 /12-60 ASPH., since March 2017
- Yongnuo 12-35 F2.8-4 STM ASPH, since April 2023
Price
You can see the prices for this lens. on E-Katalog at this link.
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In general, I liked Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 much more than its counterparts from Tamron, especially the quiet focus motor and the diameter of the front filter. The diameter of the filter, equal to 77 mm, is considered a professional standard, under which an experienced photographer over time selects a fleet of filters.
Sometimes, when working in the cold, the focus motor starts to buzz / whistle, and the focus itself can take much longer.
Results
If you find a good copy of Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM, then such a lens will be an excellent staffer for every day and will even cope with more or less difficult tasks. The lens is attracted by a constant aperture value of F / 2.8 across the entire range of focal lengths, an image stabilizer, and fast and quiet auto focus.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good afternoon!
I bought this lens and put it on nikon d40 (I like the colors of the CCD matrix). But since the lens is large, and the camera is “small”, when using the built-in flash of 17-20mm, a dark spot appears in the room at the bottom of the picture. There is of course an external flash, but I rarely use it. Tell me, if you take a camera on a CCD matrix, so that there is no such moment when using a flash, it is better to buy a nikon d80 or d200?
D3))
This lens is suitable for the JJC LH-73B Lens Hood (EW-73B) lens hood for Canon EF-S 17-85 f / 4-5.6 IS USM, EF-S 18-135mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS lenses?) Thank you in advance
I used it on Canon 100D for Canon, it took some time for the carcass to “understand what was attached to it if it wasn't Canon” as the carcass understood, and so did I, everything fell into place, the mistakes ended and even in the evening, sharp, fast, in the foreground , subject shooting, in full growth, at 17mm by 55mm, 2.8 working at all focal lengths, minus only the Canon 100D itself.
Good day glass owners, tell me, on the mount all the bolts should be screwed in or are there any openings on the mount? I didn’t see it before, only now I found a thread without a screw.
Someone used this glass on 24 megapixel matrices. nikon?
I use this glass on the D7100. Ohhhh very satisfied!
Which is preferable - native 17 - 55 or Sigma from this review ?? There is tremor (hands are trembling) ...
sigma.
Sigma 17-50, Nikon 18-105
To all of you! I consider this model as a replacement for the staff on the pentax (K-30), but tormented by vague doubts, it can still spend the accumulated overwork on aperture fix. Generally need advice or even examples of pictures from it at night. THX.
the choice of fix or light zoom is an eternal question and it is actually pointless to advise here.
The shooting technique decides everything and whether the operator is ready to sacrifice a change of plans and limited frames for the sake of aperture
I absolutely agree, and I will not dissemble - I like it when you stomp with your feet less + this model is at a discount now. And of course, clear photos at night and in the evening are a priority.
Buy a flash))
flash is not the same coat;)
I have been using it for the third year in conjunction with the 7100, I am very satisfied, excellent quality for the money. The only negative is that the hood has slightly loosened in two years.
And I'm still thinking, should I take on d7100 or what? Often I take pictures of people indoors, and not always everyone can fit into 35-ku ... Stops the fact that a large percentage of defects in these glasses.
I also liked this lens. I chose between 18-105, 16-85 and this one. More inclined to this because of aperture.
Good day! Bought a Nikon D7000. I got it with a Nikkor 50mm 1.4g lens. There are no complaints about the picture, but a fixed focal length is not always convenient. Is it worth taking this Sigma for shooting on vacation or is it better to take a dark lens with a large focal range?
PS: There is nothing to compare) After 1,4, the aperture of 6,3 (for example, like Sigma 17-200) is scary) I take it off hand. Thank you in advance for your advice!
It is easy to give advice. Filmed at 35 mm for several months - I liked it very much. I got Sigma 17-50, I have been shooting for a little over 3 months. While everything suits, there are no complaints, and 35 mm is resting on the shelf, but it’s a pity to part.
Thanks for the review. I use Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC HSM for Sony it does not have a stabilizer (the stub is implemented in the carcass) so the design is simpler and this is a plus. I use 3 years already moved to 3 carcass. The lens firmware was for Sony SLT A65 -A77 there were no compatibility problems, now the Sony A77 with a correction of -3 has excellent sharpness with open, there are no or almost no blunders of AF two or three shots per hundred. For me, one drawback is that the AF ring rotates and there is no way to adjust AF without switching to MF mode. I use the lens as a staffer for every day, I am very pleased with its cut tatami.
Maybe I got such a good one.
Good day! Tell me, what kind of protective polarizing filter is better to cover this beautiful lens?
Something tells me that none. On a similar focal Canon 17-40 f4L gelatin filter is installed. Otherwise, there will be tangible vignetting at the wide end
the frame is noticeably larger in diameter than the front lens and the lens in general - there will be no vignetting
I have a Marumi DHG Super Circular PLD 77mm
I am tormented by the question of what to take in addition to the standard 18-55, a choice between 35 1: 1.8, 50 1: 1.8, or something with a zoom at 1: 2.8 aperture. The whole problem is that the staff is sorely missed on family holidays with a rather poor light. I do not want to use a flash. Need a lens for shooting under artificial lighting, in homes, etc. Arkady, tell the novice photographer))) d5300 carcass. Thank you in advance
Alas, this lens is called a flash. At 1.4 and ISO 800 in the apartment you will have 1/80 at best, and this is only enough for shooting static objects.
It turned out to be a small test for weather resistance. The temperature is about zero, thick snow, almost four hours in such conditions. The lens was covered in snow, water and ice at the same time. Before getting into the car, I brushed off all the snow with a brush, pulled out the battery from the carcass. Naturally, by the time we arrived home everything was covered with a layer of moisture. I left it to dry overnight, put in the battery in the morning - everything works like new.
I would not risk that. The instructions say The lens is not waterproof… .. In most cases, the internal mechanisms… damaged by water cannot be repaired.
It depends on what kind of water. If salty, then hello, it's true. A clean fresh (snow, rain) is usually on the side. If at the moment of contact nothing is short, everything will dry out without consequences
The sharpness in the center of the frame pleasantly surprised me. But on the edges of the frame, everything is not so good, and vignetting in the wide-angle range on open diaphragms.
Mistake in the last word
Good evening! I’ve been looking at buying this lens for a long time, I can’t get a new one, so I’m looking from a used one. I came across a good option, but the old version, without the Sigma Zoom AF 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC Macro HSM stabilizer. How critical is the presence of a stub? It is planned to be used in conjunction with the Nikon D80. Thank you in advance for your advice.
Finally bought this lens. I haven’t tried it yet, since there isn’t much time for a more detailed shoot.
Hello again! All the same, I took Sigma Zoom 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM without a stabilizer, while its absence is not particularly critical. It’s just that there is another problem, the disease of many Sigma and Tamrons, revealed a front focus on its copy. 10 mm is a lot ??
Please tell me, this lens correctly transfers the focal value to the carcass (d7100), why the question, does the external flash zoom, for example sb700, work out normally?
The D7100 + Sb-700 bundle works absolutely fine
Pancake on this glass zoom rotates like a canon, very uncomfortable.
then look at Sigma 18-35, it’s not spinning (https://buynbest.ru/luchshii-universalnyi-zum-obektiv-canon/), only you will spin around the photos from it =))) the bokeh is such that even a full frame will envy, there is a zoom, there is aperture - what else is needed for happiness?
Cross-posting this link throughout the site. Take it easy.
I bought myself one. Previously, there was his main competitor Tamron. For those who are determined. The disadvantages of the Tamron are relatively slow autofocus, the stub works a little worse, a little less sharp. Minuses of sigma - more vignetting, spinning focus ring, less pleasant materials (feeling of a cheaper thing). Both have a focus shift problem. Moreover, it seemed to me even more pronounced in Sigma.
I apologize for focus brizing. By the way, maybe someone knows how to deal with this when stacking (not macro, i.e. without rail). Or does Helikon work fine with this?
Hello! There is a Nikon 18-200 lens and a d5100 camera (there is an intention to switch to a more modern camera -d5500 or d7200 in the future). I think to switch to a Sigma 17-70 C or Sigma 17-50 lens. The lens will be used for travel for the most part. We need a significantly high-quality transition from 18-200. What do you recommend from two lenses from Sigma? Is there a big difference between them in picture quality? Does 17-50 go far ahead from 17-70? (Interested in sharpness, and optical quality more than aperture) Or is the difference quite small? Thanks for the opinion and advice.
Sigmovsky 18-35 watched?
You know, I haven’t even considered such an option. It seems to me that 17-50 is very short, so I'm thinking about 17-70. And about 18-35 and it’s even scary to think))).
17-50 in many ways lays 17-70 on the shoulder blades. 18-35 is excellent, but not travel. Yes, and 17-50 will also probably be a little short for travel. Here, either a telephoto in addition is needed or look at the expensive 16-80.
Thank you for the advice on 16-80, but the level of salaries in Belarus, which I live in, allows you to only consider it in online reviews) (((. And of course, it would be an ideal option and I would not even think about Sigma.
I did not understand about stabilization. It is written that it is not, but it is mentioned in the text and in the text, although there is a description about the Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM model. So is there a stabilizer or not?
Everything, I figured it out myself…. ))))
I want to add my fly in the ointment =) to those people who want to buy it ...
Of the minuses:
1) It is heavy !!!! 565 grams, this is a lot, it was felt on my D5300. Now super-zooms and even less weight.
2) The focus ring is spinning !! all the time I thought that I would twist it. After 2 hours of use, I could not get used to it.
3) I didn’t feel the “wow” effect compared to my kit 18-55 af-p. the difference between 17 and 18 mm is not noticeable. Autofocus is slower and more
4) Not compatible with the SB-700 flash in the form of autofocus misses, the flash beam does not help. that the most interesting thing is that without puff, the focus falls normally. On other Nikon lenses there is no such problem. The test was conducted on a child who was not hurrying around the room.
5) Rattle! I read that there is such an "effect" but in nature it's just awful. As if something inside broke down.
6) After shooting, when you go into the viewing of frames, an interesting glitch begins, the joystick does not want to “ride” over the picture (for example, you need to look at the sharpness of the eye), it moves a little bit and brakes wildly.
Of the benefits:
1) Sharpness is not bad under conditions of street shooting.
2) The stabilizer perfectly fulfills the shake.
So do not be fooled by the fact that it is at times! better than your whale. 18-55 af-p in my opinion it is better in almost all respects, especially size, weight and autofocus, it is better to buy a flash to it. Do you want bokeh and aperture? Buy fixes!
Personal experience. It resolves the matrix better than KIT. and the picture is a little "larger", and the color rendition in it is "warmer". Very quiet, tenacious enough. and working 2,8 across the entire range has not been canceled. I did not notice a glitch with braking when viewing. and how sideways the lens is to this ... this is the processor that works. Heavy, but, as for me, this is a plus in the fight against shake. With my flash, the Maike works flawlessly in all three focusing modes. Not a rattle, but in the first two hours of testing, sometimes, listening, I paid attention to the “left” sounds. Now, except perhaps in absolute silence, I will notice. Here is the focusing ring, which constantly touches when you grip - I agree, annoying. No, he is not many times better, I agree. But a very worthy replacement for KIT. in all respects, a notch better. Even aesthetically)))) all the same the diameter of the professional glass)))
For a long time I figured out the settings on the Nikon7100 after the Fuji 5600, even handed over for adjustment. Now things seem to have gone. If you shoot every day and read the instructions, at least the first two volumes. :-)