According provided by lens Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM (FLD glass, Nikon mount F) huge thanks to Pavel.
Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM is a fast full-time zoom for cropped cameras of various systems. I reviewed the version for Nikon DX cameras, so when buying such a lens, pay attention to which system it is made for. The lens is suitable for all Nikon cameras, even the simplest ones, without a focus motor.
Main technical characteristics of Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM:
Review Instance Name | The following inscriptions are on the lens barrel, near the front lens 'Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM Ø 72 LENS MADE IN JAPAN', on the lens barrel 'Sigma DC 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX HSM Optical Stabilizer' |
Basic properties |
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Front Filter Diameter | 77 mm |
Focal length | 17-50 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 25.5-75 mm |
Zoom ratio | 2.94 X (usually rounded to 3) |
Designed by | for Nikon DX digital cameras, there are modifications for other systems (Sigma, Canon, Pentax, Sony) |
Number of aperture blades | 7 petals |
Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 17, 21, 28, 35, 50 mm, mark of bayonet mount and mount / fix hood. |
Diaphragm | control is via the camera menu (analog Nikon G - lens type) F / 2.8-F / 22 aperture over the entire focal length range |
MDF | 0.28 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
The weight | 565 g |
Optical design | 17 elements in 13 groups. The scheme includes:
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Lens hood | Bayonet type, plastic, with the possibility of installation in transport mode |
Manufacturer country | LENS MADE IN JAPAN (Lens made in Japan) |
Production period | C February 2010. In April 2013 augmented by a lens Sigma DC 18-35mm F1.8 HSM A (ART) |
Price |
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 is intended to be a relatively cheap replacement for 'native' lenses - Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM DX и Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 17-55mm 1: 2.8 IS USM.
The Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 is a good weighty lens with a huge front lens that uses 77mm filters. The lens is made in Japan, the copy from my review does not have any obvious backlash, and the lens trunk does not spontaneously protrude. The lens has a metal mount and a special zoom lock at 17mm - 'Lock'. But from the side of the bayonet in the lens, you can see its entire electronic soul with boards, springs and other insides. I am concerned that access to such lens elements has not been blocked. And three more screws on the inner sections of the lens, which are located behind the front lens, do not look very good.
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 - has fast auto focusalmost the same as the native Nikon 17-55 / 2.8... The high focusing speed is most likely due to the low travel of the focusing ring, which rotates only 45 degrees. I notice that virtually all of these third-party lenses 'save' on either the focus ring or the normal focus motor.
Auto focus is not only fast, but also enough silent. Noise level is several times lower than that of Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 и Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC, all thanks to HSM.
When focusing and zooming, the front the lens does not rotate, with filters should not be any problems. The focus ring and zoom are rubberized. During zoom, only one lens section extends. The minimum focusing distance is only 28 см, which will allow you to get macro pictures with an increase of 1: 5, which is pretty good for this kind of lens. Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 has a focus distance scale and a zoom position scale.
Bad that the lens does not support continuous manual focus control, but in order to focus manually, you need to switch the lens to the 'M' mode using the 'AF M' switch. Failure to do so could damage the lens motor.
The lens has a 7-blade aperture, which closes to a maximum of F / 22 over the entire range of focal lengths.
The lens comes with a wonderful case and lens hood. The hood can be worn back and forth, while maintaining low access to the focus ring, even 17 mm.
Of course, one of the main features of the lens is the image stabilization system, which allows take off at longer values excerpts... There is a special mode switch on the lens barrel - 'OS ON OFF'. I may be nitpicking, but generally stabilized lenses will freeze the jitter a little. JVIthat I did not see with this lens.
The instructions somehow incomprehensibly say that the stabilizer is powered by the camera even in the 'OFF' mode within a minute after turning on the camera or after pressing the focus and / or metering button exposure, or during the time while the metering is working. If you listen closely, you can indeed hear a slight noise in the middle of the lens, even with the stabilizer in the 'OFF' position. When you press the focus button, the noise just increases - apparently the stabilizer starts working at full power. This oddity can seriously affect the lifespan of a camera battery. I think this method of OS implementation is not logical. Stabilizer on the lens SIGMA C 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4 DC OS HSM MACRO works in a similar way.
Important: when the lens is removed from the camera, or when the camera is turned off, if you shake the Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS a little, you will clearly hear a noise in the middle, as if something had fallen off there. This is normal lens behavior, and the lens group responsible for stabilization is noisy, in the off state the lenses are not 'suspended' in the magnetic field.
The lens was stuffed with 2 FLD glass elements and 2 aspherical elements.
In work, Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 proved to be quite good. Focus misses are rare, but still happen. The sharpness in the center of the frame pleasantly surprised me. But on the edges of the frame, everything is not so good, and vignetting in the wide-angle range on open diaphragms. And of course, strong barrel-shaped distortion of 17mm. If you close the aperture below F / 4.0, then it's a sin to complain about the lens.
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D80. EGF is 25,5-75 mm. On-camera JPEG L fine without treatment, reduced size to 3 MP. Everything was shot in N (Neutral) Picture Control. The long exposure noise reduction function and high ISO noise reduction function were turned off.
I used the lens data for several months on the camera Nikon D90 and left only positive impressions. Below are pictures from real photo tasks:
All fast universal zoom lenses
Below is a list of all such aperture-type universal zoom autofocus lenses for SLR and mirrorless cameras with an APS-C sensor or less.
Tokina (DX, various mounts)
- Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus, model AT-X 165 PRO DX, for Canon (C/EF version) and Nikon (N/AIS version), from July 2006. Optical design is the same as Pentax SMC DA* 16-50mm f/2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM
Tamron (DI II, DI III-A, various mounts)
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 N / E / P / S (under Nikon [N], Canon [E], Pentax [P], Sony / Minolta [S]), since February 2006. Produced in Japan, China and Vietnam
- promaster DIGITAL XR EDO AF Ashperical LD [IF] 17-50mm 1: 2.8 MACROprevious lens under the brand Promaster
- Tamron Aspherical LD XR DI II SP AF 17-50mm 1: 2.8 [IF], model A16 NII (only for Nikon cameras), since March 2008
- Tamron Di II SP 17-50mm F / 2.8 VC B005, model B005 E / NII (for Canon [E] or Nikon [NII]), from September 2009, Japan or China)
- Tamron 17-70mm F / 2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Model B070, Model B070, Sony E only, from December 2020
Sigma (DC, different mounts)
With constant maximum aperture (DC EX and DC ART series):
- Sigma DC ZOOM 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX (+ -D), since July 2004, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K. The version for the '4/3' system has been available since February 2006 (not mass-produced). The version for Nikon in its name includes the prefix 'D'.
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO, since September 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, 4/3
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1: 2.8 EX MACRO HSM, since June 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-50mm 1: 2.8 ZOOM EXOS HSM, from February 2010, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-35mm F1.8 A [ART, HSM], from April 2013, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- SIGMA DC 18-50mm 1: 2.8 DN C [Contemporary], since Oct 2021, for Sony E, Leica L
With variable maximum aperture (DC and DC Contemporary series):
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5, February 2006, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4.5 MACRO HSM, from July 2007, for Nikon DX cameras only (Nikon F mount)
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 MACRO HSM OS, from December 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 C, [MACRO, OS, HSM, Contemporary], from September 2012, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
- Sigma dc 18-50mm 1:2.8-4.5 HSM OS ZOOM, from March 2009, for Sigma SA, Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony / Minotla A
Nikon (DX, F mount)
- Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1:2.8-4E ED N, Nikon F mount, from July 2015
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 17-55mm 1: 2.8G ED IF SWM, Nikon F mount, from July 2003
Pentax (DA, Q, K and Q mounts)
- Pentax SMC DA * 16-50mm 1:2.8 ED AL (IF) SDM, Pentax KAF2 mount, since February 2007. Optical design is similar to the lens Tokina AT-X PRO SD 16-50 F2.8 DX Internal Focus (joint development of Tokina and Pentax)
- HD PENTAX-DA * 1: 2.8 16-50mm ED PLMAW, from July 2021, Pentax KAF4 mount
- HD Pentax-DA 1: 2.8-4 20-40mm ED Limited DC WR, Pentax KAF3 mount, black or silver body, from November 2013
- SMC Pentax 1: 2.8-4.5 5-15mm ED AL [IF] [LENS 02], Pentax Q mount (crop factor Kf=5.53X or Kf=4.65X)
Canon (EFS, EF-S mount)
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 17-55mm 1: 2.8 IS USM (Image Sabilizer, Ulstrasonic, EFS), Canon EF-S mount, since May 2006
Sony (DT, A and E mounts)
- Sony DT 2.8/16-50 SSM, Sony A mount (Minolta A), since August 2011
- Sony E 2.8/16-55G (Sony SEL1655G), Sony E bayonet mount, from August 2019
Fujifilm(X)
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Nano-GI XF 16-55mm 1: 2.8 R LM WR, Fujifilm X mount, since January 2015
- Fujinon Ashperical Lens Super EBC XF 18-55mm 1:2.8-4 RLM OIS, Fujifilm X mount, September 2012
Samsung (NX)
- Samsung lens 1: 2-2.8 S 16-50mm ED OIS i-Function, Samsung NX mount, since January 2014
Olympus/Panasonic/Leica/Yongnuo (4/3, Micro 4/3, Kf=2X)
Mirrored 4/3:
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 11-22mm 1:2.8-3.5, from February 2004
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54mm 1:2.8-3.5, from June 2003
- OLYMPUS Digital 14-54mm 1:2.8-3.5 II, from November 2008
- OLYMPUS ZUIKO Digital 14-35mm 1: 2 ED SWDsince January 2005
- Panasonic Lumix LEICA D VARIO-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-3.5 /14 50 ASPH. MEGA OIS, from July 2006
Mirrorless Micro 4/3:
- OLYMPUS M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 12-40mm 1:2.8 PRO, since October 2013
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25mm f / 1.7 ASPH.since May 2019
- LUMIX G VARIO 1: 2.8 /12 35 ASPH. POWER OIS, since June 2012, in March 2017 an improved sub-version is released (outwardly they do not differ in any way)
- Panasonic Lumix Leica DG Vario-ELMARIT 1: 2.8-4.0 /12 60 ASPH., since March 2017
- Yongnuo 12-35 F2.8-4 STM ASPH, since April 2023
Price
You can see the prices for this lens. on E-Katalog at this link.
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In general, I liked Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 much more than its counterparts from Tamron, especially the quiet focus motor and the diameter of the front filter. The diameter of the filter, equal to 77 mm, is considered a professional standard, under which an experienced photographer over time selects a fleet of filters.
Sometimes, when working in the cold, the focus motor starts to buzz / whistle, and the focus itself can take much longer.
Results
If you find a good copy of Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM, then such a lens will be an excellent staffer for every day and will even cope with more or less difficult tasks. The lens is attracted by a constant aperture value of F / 2.8 across the entire range of focal lengths, an image stabilizer, and fast and quiet auto focus.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Greetings to all. Please advise a fast lens (at a reasonable price) for shooting video on the Nikon D5100 (to replace the whale 18-55).
like in this review
Something many here in the comments write that this lens is not very suitable for video.
Yes, frankly, the d5100 itself is not very suitable for video))
Yes, and Nikon itself as a whole (this does not apply to new mirrorless cameras from Nikon, and not very new ones either)
What do you recommend for video? Within a reasonable.
If the priority is video for little money, then Panasonic is out of competition, there inside and out, even the cheapest ones will shoot better than Nikon. If money does not press then Sony 7m3.
Please specify if anyone used the Sigma Zoom 17-50mm 1: 2.8 EX DC OS HSM (Nikon) lens on the Fuji X-series camera through the Fringer NF-FX adapter
Refine what?
Please check reviews.
Borrowed Fuji X-T4 with Fringer EF-FX Pro II adapter and Sigma AF 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art Canon EF-S lens. There was also a cell. The person used this system under video. AF work is not fast, but it will do for a photo - it suited me. The same adapter supports (if you google it) Sigma 17-50 / 2.8. How suitable the owner, I would advise you to test before buying.
Have you met your expectations when shooting photos and videos after purchasing the Fringer NF-FX adapter. There are doubts that the Sigma 17-50 / 2,8 lens will perform worse in the Fujifilm X-T4 bundle than with Nikon. Included with Fujik is a whale XF 16-80mm 1: 4, is it worth buying an adapter and using a lighter lens (2,8) or the inability to use a stub in the Sigma lens (somewhere they wrote about it) simultaneously with an in-camera stub in the camera Fuji will not give any advantages when taking photos and videos?
Native is more reliable.
More reliable what? Autofocus when taking a photo? Autofocus when shooting video? Or something else?
Autofocus, for all that, is more reliable with the native than with a third-party, and even through an adapter.
Will F2.8 on Sigma 17-50 instead of F4 on native Fuja 16-80 give an advantage?
Without specifying additional conditions, in the general case - it will.
And if we take into account such a factor that through the adapter the Sigma 17-50 / 1: 2.8 lens on the Fujifilm X-T4 will be able to work either: 1) only with in-camera stabilization, or 2) only the stabilizer of the lens itself, but with the native Fuji 16-80 lens /1:4 - both stabilizations together? Can anyone elaborate? There are so many couch experts and silence everywhere
A person who used both lenses with this camera can interpret in a complex way. Provided that this person reads your post, is able to interpret and wants it. Moreover, the formulation of the question is not entirely clear, you are still looking for some advantages in the operation of the stub, aperture ratio. For serious work with video, external stabilizing devices are still used. Sigma nominally has an advantage in aperture ratio, but adapters and third-party lenses are a capricious thing and may not work properly with your camera. Aperture 4 of the native lens is quite working for a camera like yours. Try reading here: https://fujiclub.pro/forum/threads/fujinon-xf-16-80mm-f-4.7650/ But you can't hide from sofa experts)
You must understand that when shooting motion, the stabilizer is still unnecessarily and it is the aperture ratio that can fix it. And when shooting static, the best stabilizer is a tripod.
In the video, as you rightly noted above, you can’t go anywhere without a steadic.
In general, focusing on the nuances of the stabilizer is so-so ...
Well, Christmas trees, fuja has a lot of other features
– moisture protection
- silent smooth focusing
- noticeably smaller size
- there are 16mm and 80 (instead of 50, this is significant)
- overall better quality
Arkady welcomes you! I was very surprised by this review! More precisely surprised by the photo, what color, skinton! I'm talking about Nikon D90! Here's the question, if it's not a secret, how did you illuminate the objects so that the skinton is perfect?
experience
Thank you! It is clear that experience. it's a pity..
Skintone, you say, is ideal? Well, this is the same carrot skintone, the calling card of Nikons 10-15 years ago. Overcooked orange plus low contrast in medium lights, so that skin details are simply lost, and faces look like makeup. I sometimes had such a skintone on my D7000, when I flashed my face, I spent a long time looking for the picture control preset to get rid of it.
Arkady, and such a question - maybe you tried this lens through an adapter on Fuja like X-T3 / X-T4, or maybe one of your friends tried it?
Is it tolerable for a photo or will there be problems with focus?
Good afternoon Please tell me which lens among: this (17-50), Sigma 18-50 2,8 and Tokina 16-50 would be preferable for Nikon D200? (On the same 200th, I had a staffer Nikon 16-85, it suits me perfectly, but now it is busy). Most often shooting outdoors, involving covered apertures, but occasionally I shoot indoors, where a high aperture would be useful. I don’t consider Tamron for sure, there won’t be enough funds for my native Nikon
Depends on the condition and price at which you find them.
Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 can be about 2 times more expensive than Tokina.
She has a stub, which is a plus. Minus the stub - noticeably eats up the battery than with a lens without it. I have both - both Tokina and Sigma with a stub. I recently bought Tokinu very inexpensively and have not had time to compare them with each other. Before buying, it is advisable to check how it focuses. From something similar, there is also Sigma 17-70 / 2.8-4.0.
I also looked at Nikon, but for its price you can buy several Sigma or Tokin and also a camera like D40 / D60 / D3000 for change.
Thank you very much for your reply Dmitry! I found Tokina and this Sigma for about 15k (+-), Sigma 18-50 is a little cheaper. I have been thinking about buying a set of Tokin lenses for a long time, but Arkady's reviews, especially information about frequent focus failures, somehow made me wary. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to check when buying, because. in my region nothing sensible has ever been sold))
Sigma 17-50 needs a more thorough check, there, in addition to focusing accuracy, you need to look at the operation of the stub.
18-50 older model without stub and motor.
Of the nuances - when focusing, the focus ring spins and can touch the hand, especially at focal lengths of 50-70mm, when you want to move your palm a little further, but it just fits under the focus ring, this is a little unusual and can be uncomfortable.
Thanks again! Have you compared 18-50 and 17-50 from Sigma? If optically they would be identical, then I see no reason for myself to overpay for a stabilizer)
No, it was not possible to compare 18-50 and 17-50.
There is a feeling that the 17-50 is an improved version of the 17-50 with a motor and a stub.
I have this Sigma 17-50 wound on the D40. The picture is completely satisfying.
D200 I think she will also master it.
Good afternoon Tell me, please, in the last photos this lens is installed on the Nikon N8008s, did you try to shoot in such a bunch and how strong is the vignette?
Thank you!
there will be a strong vignette, and the lens will not work correctly
You, of course, were lucky with your copy (or I was unlucky with mine). Mine at F2.8 lathers in the corners shamelessly. Normal sharpness starts at F8.
Is the SIGMA 17-35 MM F/2.8-4 EX DG HSM worth considering or is there an alternative?
Only on full frame, on crop – it doesn’t make much sense. All alternatives here (really everything!)
I bought myself one yesterday on the secondary market for about 200 Baku, for a Canon DSLR. Bitter disappointment, simply bitter. The first is chromatic aberrations, there are so many of them that I have never seen anything like this anywhere. Second distortion of perspective. The perspective is distorted and when you try to correct the distortion in Camera raw, the distortion only intensifies (in automatic mode according to the lens brand). Third - indistinct sharpness, compared with a whale, oddly enough, the whale is slightly sharper. More precisely, with a whale the image is less noisy than with Sigma. I didn’t look at all aperture values, but only at 3,5 and 5,6 because the illumination was not enough. It’s a dead dark, cloudy December outside, and even during the day you can’t go 5,6 ISO lower than 1600. I don't have good lighting for testing at home either. I'll test it more widely in the spring, but so far it's terrible. It costs five to ten times more than a whale, is less reliable in use, thanks to a strange stub, and the quality of the picture obtained by a whale is visually better even without magnification. Compared with the CANON ZOOM LENS EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS II kit. Maybe I was just unlucky with the copy, maybe it’s because I’m not a pro and I’m doing something not quite right.
Is it worth replacing 18-70 with 17-50 from the review? Which would you choose? I'm happy with 18-70, but I would like more background blur and aperture. Or are these still the same eggs only in profile and you need to take a fix?
Hello, Arkady! Thank you for your work and for sharing your knowledge. Based on your recommendation in the reviews, I bought this lens for the Nikon system, it exceeded all my expectations. This is what I wanted. I expected a much worse picture, characteristics and unpleasant moments associated with a third-party manufacturer. I am delighted with the lens and want to express my gratitude to you. If it weren’t for you, I wouldn’t have looked in his direction, and even so I was afraid to take a third-party lens. Don't give up your work. Thank you!
Happy for you
Arkady, tell me, in 2024, would you recommend the Sigma 17-50 from the review or the Nikon 17-55 to a demanding amateur?
YES
What nuances of this lens should you pay attention to when buying on the secondary market?
See everything with your eyes and don’t buy anything remotely, except Japanese ones from eBay.
You can take it from them.
You indicated two different lenses on the secondary market. The price of Nikon can be 2-3 times more expensive than Sigma. I had this Sigma and sold it. It's not bad when new. But when the used structure itself quickly deteriorates and problems begin with the stub.
And 17-55 in really good and not greasy condition can be paradoxically expensive - more expensive than 28-70/2.8 and sometimes close to worn-out 24-70/2.8. A demanding amateur should fork out for a new lens or switch to a full frame, or better yet, a BZK.
I look at everything used, a new Sigma costs a lot, a new Nikon probably doesn’t exist anymore. I'm choosing between Sigma 17-50 and Nikon 17-55. Yes, the price of Nikon is 30-40% higher. So the problem is, do you have to strain yourself and take a Nikon or can you live with a sigma, of course, provided that the sigma is in good condition. Sigma's price and presence of a stub are very impressive.
At full frame this is too cool for just an amateur, and now is not the time.
There is no problem buying an inexpensive full-frame camera.
You can still find 5D Mk2 from trusted sellers with tolerable mileage.
I don’t know where you are, but where I am, you can buy a Sigma in very good condition for $250, and a Nikon for about $400-450.
I also once thought that the stub on Sigma was not bad. He doesn't help much there.
It’s better to spend money on a good, worthy Thing, preferably new or close to that condition. If you take Sigma, I recommend finding out in advance where their remaining service center is and what kind of work they are doing and whether there are spare parts.