According provided by lens Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical many thanks to Andrey Ivanov.
Review Nikon 18-140mm VR
Nikon 18-140mm VR was introduced in the summer of 2013 as a replacement for the obsolete Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Asphericalreleased back in 2006. I suspect the 140mm focal length was dictated by the need to accurately distinguish the new '18 -140 VR 'from the old '18 -135', which turned out to be not the most popular lens.
Main technical characteristics of Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-140 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-210 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 7.8 X (usually rounded to 8) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 140 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 140 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 4 stops by CIPA standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 490 g |
| Optical design | 17 elements in 12 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2016 the lens has been produced in China. |
| Period | From 2013 to the present day (at least until 2017) |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
It is interesting to note that the Nikon 18-140mm VR only has one aspherical element in its optical design, while the old Nikon 18-135 has two. You can view and compare optical schemes in the section about 'Optical design for all Nikon DX lenses'.
Since the Nikon 18-140mm VR has a built-in focus motor, it is perfect for any Nikon DX class camera. The lens itself can act as “lens for all occasions“. True, for versatility you will have to pay low aperture.
Nikon 18-140mm VR Side View
Autofocus speed is average, almost exactly the same as that of Nikon 18-200mm GII VR, Nikon 18-200VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-6.3 VR, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-105VR, if we compare the focusing time from infinity to MDF and vice versa (analysis can be carried out on video from the network). Of all the Nikon DX zoom lenses, it only focuses noticeably faster Nikon 16-85VR, Nikon 17-55 и Nikon 18-70. Funny but even the simplest lenses Nikon 18-55G, 18-55GI, 18-55 VR, 18-55VRII still focus a little faster than Nikon 18-140mm VR.
The autofocus speed at 18 mm focal length is slightly faster than 140 mm. A decrease in the auto focus speed with an increase in the focal length is common to almost all super-zooms Nikon DX.
View Nikon 18-140mm VR at 140mm
The lens has internal focusing, which makes it possible to use light filters without any problems. The front lens also does not rotate when zooming. But the rear lens moves when zooming and creates the effect of a “vacuum cleaner”. The zoom ring is rubberized, wide and easy to operate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 см. This is a very good indicator for super-zoom, and allows you to shoot objects close-up, with a magnification of approximately 1: 4.3.
The lens has a 'A-M' focus mode switch, exactly the same as previous lenses: Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-105VR. Sorry but the lens does not support continuous manual focus control Nikon M / A.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon 18-140mm VR rear view
It's a pity, but, unlike more advanced lenses, Nikon 18-140mm VR, apart from focal length markers, does not have any useful designations, such as focusing distance or depth of field.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens
Made lens in Thailand. There are no complaints about the assembly. Very good, which, unlike Nikon 18-105VR и Nikon 18-135The new lens has a metal mount. The lens from this review is new, and therefore I have not yet observed a spontaneous loss of a trunk under its own weight, perhaps such an ailment will never occur in the lens. But still, a small drawback is the lack of a hood in the package, which will have to be purchased separately. Nikon 18-140mm VR uses the HB-32 lens hood exactly the same Nikon 18-105VR, Nikon 18-70 и Nikon 18-135.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens
The lens has a built-in image stabilizer and a dedicated 'VR ON OFF' switch to turn it on and off. The stabilizer works fine, I have no problem took off without grease at shutter speeds of 1/60 second and 140 mm of focal length. When turning on and off, the stabilizer emits quiet clicks.
View of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens on the slam-shut device
Nikon 18-140mm VR tried to do well, it has good sharpness, but chromatic aberration is not so good. The lens noticeably suffers from distortion (especially at 18mm, the gallery has examples of photos with curved walls) and vignetting on open apertures. In backlight, it can easily catch glare. I did not find anything outstanding or serious flaws in the lens.
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D80 using protective filter fox Digital SC UV 67mm. On camera JPEG L fine without treatment, reduced size to 3 MP. Everything was shot in N (Neutral) Picture Control. Noise reduction function is disabled at slow shutter speeds, noise reduction function at high values ISO - 'Norm' or 'Off'.
Optical design AF-S DX18-140mm f 3.5-5.6G ED VR Nikon
In my opinion, the Nikon 18-140mm VR can be a worthy replacement for staff members from the category 18-55 / 3,5-5,6, but change to it Nikon 18-105mm VR I don’t see the point. Yes, and the newcomer is still a little expensive. The advent of Nikon 18-140mm VR can satisfy those who need focal length Nikon 18-105mm VR 'few', and Nikon 18-200mm VR - roads. I almost never met Nikon 18-140mm VR as a complete lens for modern cameras and I think that it is much more profitable to buy a kit with Nikon 18-105mm VR... My rating of stock Nikon DX zoom can be found in the 'Choosing a Nikon Camera and Lens'.
Lens prices in popular stores can look at this link, or in the price block below:
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Results
Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical turned out to be a worthy super-zoom. Such a lens is suitable for most photo tasks and will be damn useful on vacation or outdoors.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Period From August 27, 2008 to the present day (at least until autumn 2015) - indicated in the table.
At the beginning of the review, you wrote that it has been released since 2013.
Good afternoon! I switched to D7200 and am thinking about replacing the 18-70. Fixes, of course, are good, but you want something that you can take with you on a trip as the main lens without straining. Actually, there are 2 main candidates: 18-105 and 18-140. Judging by the dxo tests - 18-140 should be sharper, because allows a larger number of megapixels (which is important for a 24-megapixel matrix), and in general it looks more preferable from the graphs. In principle, according to the graphs of the same dxo, I will not see any difference between the current 18-70 and 18-105.
However, real users, on average, say that 18-105, on the contrary, is sharper than 18-140. I looked at comparative pictures of the target 18-105 and 18-140, and it turns out that 18 is preferable to 18-140, and on all the others - 18-105.
But. Will 18-105 be sharper than my current 18-70? The main task is to get a slightly clearer picture for the 24-megapixel matrix, while remaining within the reasonable framework of the travel zoom. In principle, there is an option to purchase 18-200 VR inexpensively. But, logically, there are even more focal ones, so it will be difficult to expect a better picture.
Taki bought it! the d5300 is a great lens! Sharp all over the focal! Even at 140 mm you can rive decent portraits, the main thing is to guess with the background. Of the shortcomings, if you find fault, the stub is audible how it works and it is a bit heavy, although after a sigma of 17-50 it is lightweight) an excellent staffer! It works well in conjunction with flash sat 700.
Congratulations. Forget about the stub. Use a tripod or mount the camera on something, especially when it’s 100mm or more. For me, this is generally the best portraiture. In most cases, I use a 90-110mm segment. Although I must admit, I achieved perfect blur somewhere around 200mm and only on the street, because in a room at such a focal point I did not really expand.
And where is this lens 200 mm? and why forget about the stub?
Here I meant any other telephoto coming up to 200mm.
Arkady, hello. I want to buy a travel lens so I don't have to rearrange the lenses. I am faced with a choice of either Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G, or Nikon 16-85mm f / 3.5-5.6G. The minimum focal length 16-18 does not matter. For wide angle I use Tokina 12-24. The main direction is picture quality, clarity. Which of these two lenses would you recommend? Previously used Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G, sold. Now I use Nikon 35mm f / 1,8G - a great lens, but inconvenient to use when traveling.
Or maybe you advise considering the acquisition of a high-speed staffer? Which is better then to take?
Well, stop at 18-140, the truth is always in the middle
Will 18-140 be better in quality than 18-200 and 16-85? It seems to be the same as the Nikon 18-105, only a little more focal.
by dxomark measurements
18-140 is better than 18-200, and on different focal points is better or worse than 16-85 (which is more expensive)
I analyzed my photos on the focal lengths in the ExposurePlot program and came to the conclusion that when traveling I use mainly focal lengths 12-50 and a little 90-100mm. Therefore, I acquired a fast Sigma 17-50mm f / 2.8 lens (I use Tokina 12-24 f / 4 for a wide angle)
I really liked the lens.
Hello!
Need help choosing a lens.
Nikkor 18-140mm - good focal points, but dark.
Sigma 17-50mm f / 2.8 - good aperture and wide angle is important, but not reliable construction (crackling and noise during stub operation).
Considering all (+) and (-) - what would you advise to buy?
Vitaliy, I bought a sigma 17-50, turned it around one day, tested it and passed it back! Bought 18-140 satisfied! the focal point for travel is just super. At 140 you can peel portraits)) here's a small photo.
another cup from 18-140, an orchid in the kitchen.
Thank you very much!
I think it's worth taking NIKON 18-140.
Good luck shooting!
Captured, distortion corrected, sharpness added and almost not cropped. Although I shoot 140 mm very rarely.
Nice shot!
dog as if from cardboard
I use this kid as a super universal for travel and reporting.
Very like.
Visual distortions in the photo are treated on the go by the carcass itself with the new firmware, but chromatic aberration often happens :(
pleased with a good stabilizer.
on nikon 5200
18mm with a photo with a native flash you can see the shadow from the lens.
When squeezing, you can get a good blur, and the sharpness comes from aperture 11.
there was no hood in the kit, put the Chinese one, it helps a lot with back and side light.
Good day. Owners 18-140, tell me. Faced such a problem: I purchased this device at a reduced price (wiring). Upon receipt, I checked for front-back focus, everything seems to be fine. But I did not pay attention to such a drawback (and noticed after a couple of days): if you shake the lens, then something heavy dangles slightly closer to the mount (it is unlikely that these are VR elements, because it feels like something is quite massive). Is it some kind of design feature or marriage, trying to get it back?
Well, it’s not that it’s straight, but yes, something massive is moving, both on the new 18-140, and on the old 18-105, and on the not very old 70-300
Thank you calmed down. To be honest, I recently got carried away with shooting not on the phone and bought my first DSLR. 18-55 was not enough, so I bought 18-140. For some reason I thought that everything should be monolithic enough. And according to the reviews there was no bumpiness. But since there are similar reviews, then everything is fine (and Ken Rockwell conducts shaking tests, he also had something shaking inside). It remains to overcome the accidentally placed imprint on the rear lens (it turns out how much to know and be able to do) ...
I bought it a couple of weeks ago, before going on vacation, to replace / add 18-105 (this is already 6 years old). It cost 6580 UAH (about $ 255) - this is, together with cash on delivery, in the online store. The lens from the kit - in a white box without inscriptions, a warranty from the store (like), Made in China. There is no hood included, I installed it from 18-105.
I shot a trip to Lviv on D7100 (4 days there), and walked around the city of Dnipro for a day. I looked through the photo, there are no complaints: the focusing was where it needed to be (focusing defect is less than 1%), the focusing speed does not differ from 18-105 - rather nimble in daylight, uncertain in the dim light of the lights. Sharpness and detailing are sufficient for amateur shooting (no one expects ringing sharpness from a dark zoom kit, especially on the open one), let me remind you that the camera is 24MP.
The stabilizer works well: it was possible to take clear hand-held shots, without support at 1 / 15-1 / 10 at 50mm FR, and 1/5 at 18mm FR (about half of the shots are blur, 3-4 frames were shot serially)
“Head-on” has not yet compared 18-140 and 18-105, but subjectively they are the same :-) (except that 18-105 is already 6 years old, there is a little dust in it, and the trunk leaves under its own weight)
Stylus sent me without a box at all, only a bag and some bubble wrap. In general, the quality of the images was pleasant, although the focusing is slower and more noisy compared to the 18-55 of the latest version. The only thing that confused me was that MDF was as much as 45 cm; more macro shots could be taken on the whale.
As for the macro: 18-55 MDF has less, yes, but also fewer FRs. With small DF, it is difficult to shoot something running / crawling / flying, because it gets scared
If you want a budget macro - buy macro rings. Recently I ordered AF macro rings on Ali, the shares came out at $ 28 (the usual price is about $ 32) - this is with a plastic bayonet, with a metal one - from $ 50.
Plain extension tubes (not AF) can generally be found for under $ 8. I have, I took it before. The biggest inconvenience is not the lack of exposure metering and focusing, but the fact that if the aperture is “jumping”, then it is closed by default when the lens is mounted on such a ring.
How your 18-24 lens works. I get some soap, the sharpness is small (the leaves are generally unsharp). Or maybe I'm just picking on too. I can only compare with the regular 18-55, but everything is not going smoothly there either.
Photo processed, unfortunately there was no other. Nikon D90.
In fact, in terms of sharpness, just 18-55 were always on top (at the extreme focal points). Maybe what’s wrong with the carcass?
Good day !!! And tell me the lens 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR lens (Kit) and AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-140 mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR are two different lenses or the same ???
Good afternoon. They are the same lens. No others. The names can be specified as you like, as long as there is' Nikon 'and '18 -140'.
The 'KIT' prefix says that the lens comes with some kind of camera.
Thank you!
Hello !!! I bought a couple of days ago Nikon D7200 with an 18-140mm lens. And yesterday in a dark apartment in auto mode, I tried to take a couple of photos. Photos without light, with a flash, turned out gorgeous, but I noticed a large blurred black spot in the lower left corner and then I took a couple of photos with light. So in the photo there are no spots, everything is clear, but when shooting in the dark when approaching, is there a defect ???
Or it could be that the lens is large and when zooming in, light from the “AF-assist illuminator” enters and is simply displayed in the eyepiece of the viewfinder. I just closed the round window with my finger and everything is fine ...
“… 18mm aperture from f / 3.5 to f / 22. 140mm from f / 5.6 to f / 38. The lens has no aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) ...!
I have a 140 mm aperture closes only to F / 36.
A couple of weeks ago, this lens survived a fall, from one meter in height, without a case and on the asphalt with the front end. The filter is bent slightly. Everything works, no damage. At 10-24, after a similar fall and in a wardrobe trunk - I ordered the autofocus to live, I had to buy a new one, although I still continue to use the old one, since the picture quality, fortunately, did not suffer, except that I focus manually.
Well, you and hand ** p !!!
thank God, I got rid of this miracle of technology ...
Tell me, if you compare the picture quality and focus speed, which lens will be better, 18-105, or 18-140? And in which stabilizer works better, or are they the same?
Image quality and focus speed are the same. I can’t say anything for the stub. not using.
Thank you Arkady for the good material in particular and for the excellent blog in general. The question on this lens is: how good is it in macro shooting, what will we see in the frame at the maximum approximation from the minimum distance?
We see an increase of 1 to 5. This lens is not for macro, but you can shoot small objects.
Thanks Arkady. 1 to 5 I understand, i.e. will the lens cover be full frame? Previously, when comparing lenses, they printed the same view from maxim. close range and was more or less clear VISUALLY. So what will happen to the lid?
With a lid? The long side of the matrix of your photo is 24mm? With a 1: 1 macro, an object with a length of 24mm will occupy the entire frame (wide), with a 2: 1 macro, an object is already 48 mm, and 5: 1 - 24 * 5 = 120mm.
Need advice experienced. I am faced with the choice of nikkor 18-140 or nikkor 18-200 vr
I am more inclined to 18-140, because it is newer and sharper, as it seems to me, but I will listen to all the reasoned advice.
18-140 is definitely better. The only plus of 18-200 is a long trick. At the moment when he is nada, you will not need to change lenses. And that’s it. 18-140 is designed for new, multi-megapixel cameras, there is some protection from drinking and moisture.
I would advise 18-140, although it is a class lower than 18-200. If you want 18-200, you can look at Sigma 18-200C.
Thank you for the answers.
I also tend to 18-140, but it confuses me that he only has one ED and an aspherical element.
I currently have a camera d50, but I plan to upgrade to d7000.
Focal 140 or 200 is not important.
In any case, thanks again for your opinion.
Hello!
There are opinions about problems with focusing in a bunch of Nikon D5300 + 18-140.
They say that Phase autofocus will NOT work.
Has anyone come across?
Thank you.
Good afternoon, the Nikon 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor lens is suitable for the Nikon D610. I want to change the camera, but the lenses later. Are they compatible?
Good day. It will do, but with the d610 it will only work in crop mode. The d610 needs lenses without a DX mark.
Hello, I want to change my 18 -105 and 35 mm to 1 universal lens (so that you don’t have to take 2 lenses all the time during the trip). Mostly I take photographs while traveling, I also shoot landscapes, nature, sometimes people, so that I can make a portrait. Also interested in quality and sharpness of the picture and not for all the money. I am considering options:
1) nikkor 18-140;
2) nikkor 16-85.
Is it worth it to change, or maybe some other advise for a replacement. Thank you for your help
Check out your photos. Do you often use the 85-105mm range? If you need this range, or a little more - 18-140 yours. In terms of sharpness, it is slightly better than 18-105, but not dramatically.
If you don't need a TV band at all - look towards 17-55 Nikon / Sigma / Tamron (see for money). At 16-85, the angle is wider, but the price is, IMHO, high. No zoom can replace prime, but 17-55 / 2,8 can approach 35/2 at least in aperture.
After buying Shirik and TV, I generally lost interest in the 18-55 range. After buying 17-55, he returned to it for a while, but only for filming with people when you need a portrait from full height to front in a cramped room or at a short distance.
Although, in principle, for a typical stupid “I am against the background of pyramids”, “I am against the background of something else, substitute the necessary background”, perhaps, the most popular FR.
On the contrary, I would add shirik to the zoom, which I am doing (Tokina 116). Sometimes the subject does not fit even in 18 mm, the presence of 11-16 mm saves. And in the evening, at night without a fast fix anywhere. Especially with crop. There is no universal solution. And 18-105 is not so bad, portraits are quite possible at 105. Although it will not be able to compete with portrait fixes.
there is no point in such a replacement. 18-105 is more suitable for your tasks, it is no worse than the newer 18-140, and 16-85 can be narrower. 35 for crop, in my opinion, it is a must-have. Many amateurs will envy your set. If the question is to pamper yourself with something new and it won’t matter, then you can still think. To dispel all doubts, once again review Arkady's reviews on the above glasses
Heh. Two lenses. I think about traveling as if in three ...
You can take 16-300 from Tamron, but the quality will be appropriate.
I prefer traveling 10-18 or 8-15 (fish) at the wide end for landscapes and architecture, 55-250 as a universal telephoto and 30 / 1.4 (or recently 35 / 2.8IS) or a 24 / 2.8 pancake as a conditional normal. This is on the crop. On FF 20/35/135 (or the old zoom 100-300, if on the street).
Switching is mainly between telephoto and wide-angle (10-24, by the way, from Tamron, will allow switching much less frequently), and normal is used only after dark or for portraits.
If you choose from these two, perhaps 16-85. Personally, I always have two glasses in my bag; these are 10-24 and 18-140. For sharpness, do not worry, in theory and based on all sorts of tables calculated by great theorists from photography, there are differences, as a matter of fact, in practice, even if you look at the photos pixel by pixel, there is no difference.
I have differences, as it were. Maybe this is already due to multi-pixelity, because lens resolution increases with aperture cover (and strong for so-so lenses), and the diffraction threshold is exceeded quickly. This may especially apply to dark lenses, which are not particularly covered.
Friends, tell me, is there any point in taking 18-140 with 18-55 vr and 70-300? Will he give a gain in sharpness in any range? Carcass d5600
Will give convenience. And lighter compared to 18-55. More convenient to travel than 2 lenses. With him, probably 70-300 will often lie unclaimed.
With him, probably 70-300 will often lie unclaimed. I wouldn’t say that. 18-140, although a universal zoom lens, from a wide angle to a zoom, it is very far from a telephoto lens. 70-300 is binoculars, and they can see and photograph much more at long distances than with an 18-140 lens. These two lenses have different purposes, and to say that 70-300 will be unclaimed, in my opinion it is stupid.
Do you have similar lenses yourself? And I have. Large focal lengths are rarely needed in real life. air 210 is still a teleband and quite a lot, and higher is needed in rare cases. Having 18-140 you think - do you need to carry 70-300 with you if it will still be in your bag?
I didn’t notice that it was lighter. On the contrary, 18-55 seemed to me lighter on the stop and macro it takes better pictures.